Motobecane Fly Team ti build.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Motobecane Fly Team ti build. Edited for final weight and pics.

    Gotta show off. Just finished it at the shop about an hour ago.

    Stans flows on American classic hubs, XO derailleur, SLX cranks, Thomson post and stem, ENVE bars, esi grips, B77s with paul levers. 21" frame came in at just over 24 pounds. Couldnt be happier. Don't mind the tester saddle. It's all we had at work.






    Last edited by hydrolaw; 06-03-2011 at 04:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    Seeing as I can't sleep, let me be the first to congratulate you. I love the read XO rear derailleur. The bike looks great. Maybe you can get some pictures in the daylight. Again, very nice job.

  3. #3
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    More and better pictures please! I would ride a 21", but don't see too many of them out there. This one looks great (which is bad for my bike fund)
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    Uh Oh! Another BD, better duck and cover!
    Flyin the TallBoy and the Lynskey...Clyde style.


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    Yep a BD. Look, I am a mechanic in an LBS. We sell Trek, Cannondale, Scott, and a little Seven. I have ridden, literally, thousands of bikes from most every brand you can think of. I bought this as a personal experiment. I can happily say I am not disappointed in the slightest, and neither is anyone in our shop. The welds are quality as is the entire frame. I got my frame alone from bike island so I could build it to my liking. I cannot say anything bad about the bike. I will be upgrading to a fox fork later but that is a moot point. From what I see, and from what the customers have brought into our shop. These are quality bikes. End of story. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to recommend one to anyone. That said. Here are some pictures and a link to our shop. Im Aaron L.

    https://bike-rack.com/articles/linco...ictures-ig508/









    Still to come are some XTR pedals and a Pual chainkeeper.

  6. #6
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    That is a good review and a great looking bike. I dont think you could do better pricewise on a ti than the moto. I am currently looking at their full susp 29er frame to do a parts swap and have been reading some of the flame threads on here and just cant believe the venom. That looks to be a 1x10, do you have a final weight on it?
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    I actually ran it 1x9. Ill have a FINAL weight once I have changed to the salsa seatpost clamp and xtr pedals. As it sets its 24.3.

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    Thanks for the unbiased review.

  9. #9
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    Sweet looking bike. I've been thinking about getting a Fly Team for some and that build looks similar to my build for my banshee (same wheels, seatpost, etc)

    How's that saddle?

    Question though, no chain retention device? I ride a 1x10 and I can't imagine riding without a retention device.
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  10. #10
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    It seems like a decent enough build but somehow it comes off looking very commuter bikeish.....meh.
    If I had a black light this place would look like a Jackson Pollock painting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by marzjennings View Post
    Sweet looking bike. I've been thinking about getting a Fly Team for some and that build looks similar to my build for my banshee (same wheels, seatpost, etc)

    How's that saddle?

    Question though, no chain retention device? I ride a 1x10 and I can't imagine riding without a retention device.
    I actually just had a post about the CRD. I have setled on a Paul. I curretly have an allante saddle on my felt. I am just trying this one on for size. Haven't ever ridden an Arione. Commuter bike? Yeah Ill do some commutes on it.

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    Edited to retract statement. I do not believe the crank brothers seat post clamp is defective.
    Last edited by hydrolaw; 06-03-2011 at 09:29 PM.

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    It's finally done. Changed the post to a masterpiece setback to get a little more room in the cockpit. Added XTR pedals, a paul chain keeper and an aliante carbon saddle. Final weight including pedals, lights, computer, and bottle cage....24.9 pounds.





    Last edited by hydrolaw; 06-04-2011 at 09:30 AM.

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    Looks nice been thinking of replacing my 21" aluminum Moto Pro29 with the Ti just wish you could get one without the fork.

    Give a ride review, please.

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    I just did a little ride with a couple friends. Wilderness park here in lincoln so it wasn't anything technical. Just basically road riding through the woods. One thing I will say is that the seat tube is, I believe, a hair too large. A buddy I ride with said that it is a common problem on this frame. I just got home and havent had time to check posts but I would assume it is true. I take it back when i said the crank brothers seatpost clamp is a piece of crap. It isnt. A friend is using it on a scott team cross bike and it is performing well. I way overtightened the salsa clamp and the seatpost hasn't moved, but it is way over torqued. I don't care, but that may bother some people. Im going to sand a little on the inside of the seat tube if the post moves again, but it held up through the last part of our ride so I doubt it will move again. So that is my only complaint about the frame. Other than that, it is silky smooth, not noodly at all, and a very enjoyable ride. It is currently my favorite bike. The only thing that has a ride that totally outdoes it would be a Moots Mooto-x, but that is a softail. Kind of apples to oranges. As far as hardtails go, it goes in my class with the best of the best. The seat tube issue is a very minor inconvenience to save a few grand. Like I said, I tightened it to probably 20 newton meters, if I had to guess, and it hasn't moved even when I tried to make it do so.

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    nice build, just wanted to say hi to a fellow Nebraskan.

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    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_dood View Post
    Looks nice been thinking of replacing my 21" aluminum Moto Pro29 with the Ti just wish you could get one without the fork.

    Give a ride review, please.
    You can always sell the fork. You'll get at least $300 for it, most likely more.

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    I think the fork could easily be sold. We have guys in our shop that are always buying decnt bikes that come with a junk fork that would eat a deal like that up. If youve got a friend in a bike shop, ask one of them if anyone has mentioned that scenario. If not, theres always ebay. Rebas are good forks. Im only changing out because the parts for a fox will be around for days, years to come.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydrolaw View Post
    I just did a little ride with a couple friends. Wilderness park here in lincoln so it wasn't anything technical. Just basically road riding through the woods. One thing I will say is that the seat tube is, I believe, a hair too large. A buddy I ride with said that it is a common problem on this frame. I just got home and havent had time to check posts but I would assume it is true. I take it back when i said the crank brothers seatpost clamp is a piece of crap. It isnt. A friend is using it on a scott team cross bike and it is performing well. I way overtightened the salsa clamp and the seatpost hasn't moved, but it is way over torqued. I don't care, but that may bother some people. Im going to sand a little on the inside of the seat tube if the post moves again, but it held up through the last part of our ride so I doubt it will move again. So that is my only complaint about the frame. Other than that, it is silky smooth, not noodly at all, and a very enjoyable ride. It is currently my favorite bike. The only thing that has a ride that totally outdoes it would be a Moots Mooto-x, but that is a softail. Kind of apples to oranges. As far as hardtails go, it goes in my class with the best of the best. The seat tube issue is a very minor inconvenience to save a few grand. Like I said, I tightened it to probably 20 newton meters, if I had to guess, and it hasn't moved even when I tried to make it do so.
    Congrats on your build. I too built a Moto Ti frameset up and have really enjoyed the bike.
    I will say I appreciate your perspective in particular because you are knowledgable about how the Moto Ti Fly fairs relative to other namebrand bikes. I agree with your review. Hard to ask for more really.
    A tip and then a request for a bit of advice.
    First the tip from one tech to another. Seat tube tolerance has little to do with seat post slippage. Just so you know. Let's say the seat tube on the Ti Fly on your bike is .5mm mm oversize. This will not affect its propensity to slip. It 'may' affect the propensity for creak but not for slippage. This is because the seat is fully retained at the collar. Even an oversize seat tube will allow the collar of the tube which is cut to fully compress around the seat post. I have owned 100 bikes and probably 1/2 of them have had a seat post that wouldn't stay in place with modest clamp pressure or to torque spec. NEVER overtorque a clamp to get the seat post to stay in place. The issue isn't sizing...its coef. of static and dynamic friction between tube and post. You need to rough up your Thomson post. I too ride Thomson posts. Even with serrations they many times slip. Do NOT rough up the seat tube ID. You can create enough friction with roughing the post as they come painted and are slippery. Also you can use carbon paste or hair spray to further increase friction. Again, seat post slipping has nothing to do with the tolerance of the seat tube ID. It may cause some toggling which can be abated with a piece of tape around the end of the seat post however...but slippage is caused due to lack of friction. My Ti Fly's post is perfectly sized and doesn't slip with carbon paste. With unabraided Thomson post it will slip or it did when I installed it.

    Now my question. I too run an SLX crank which has been great but it is a triple. I have been considering going to a single chainring in front like you have. My question is...did you purchase a different chainring for your SLX cranks or did you buy it that way? If you removed all the rings to replace with a different chainring did you grind off the granny ring mounting bosses?

    Congrats.

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    Good to know aout the seat tube. i appreciate it very much. It hasnt slipped at all and I just did about 20 miles. So everything is good. I did not get my cranks like that. I didnt grind off the granny ring mounts just in case I wanted to sell the crank later on. I got a salsa 36 t chainring and the original chainring bolts worked well because the salsa ring is double the thickness at the mounting points. I couldnt imagine upgrading to different cranks, though. The only cranks I could possibly see as being better would be the cannondale hollowgrams.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydrolaw View Post
    Good to know aout the seat tube. i appreciate it very much. It hasnt slipped at all and I just did about 20 miles. So everything is good. I did not get my cranks like that. I didnt grind off the granny ring mounts just in case I wanted to sell the crank later on. I got a salsa 36 t chainring and the original chainring bolts worked well because the salsa ring is double the thickness at the mounting points. I couldnt imagine upgrading to different cranks, though. The only cranks I could possibly see as being better would be the cannondale hollowgrams.
    Thanks for the advice about the SLX crankset with single Salsa chainring. I agree about the SLX cranks...they have been flawless...dead quiet BB and stiff.
    Do you have a suggestion for a supplier for the thicker Salsa 36t ring? For a single ring I would prefer a 34t if available. Great that the same bolts can be used since the Salsa ring is thicker. Please let me know if you would and Thanks again.

    Edit:I have found a 34t Salsa ring without Pins or Ramps on line. Please see pic below.
    Did you mount your Salsa ring to the 'outside' position on the SLX triple spider? If so, does this hurt the chainline when running to the largest cassette cogs in back?
    Or...would it be best to mount the Salsa ring to the middle position if this is possible?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Fly Team ti build.-salsa-34t-chainring.jpg  

    Last edited by dirtrider7; 06-04-2011 at 03:51 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider7 View Post
    Congrats on your build. I too built a Moto Ti frameset up and have really enjoyed the bike.
    I will say I appreciate your perspective in particular because you are knowledgable about how the Moto Ti Fly fairs relative to other namebrand bikes. I agree with your review. Hard to ask for more really.
    A tip and then a request for a bit of advice.
    First the tip from one tech to another. Seat tube tolerance has little to do with seat post slippage. Just so you know. Let's say the seat tube on the Ti Fly on your bike is .5mm mm oversize. This will not affect its propensity to slip. It 'may' affect the propensity for creak but not for slippage. This is because the seat is fully retained at the collar. Even an oversize seat tube will allow the collar of the tube which is cut to fully compress around the seat post. I have owned 100 bikes and probably 1/2 of them have had a seat post that wouldn't stay in place with modest clamp pressure or to torque spec. NEVER overtorque a clamp to get the seat post to stay in place. The issue isn't sizing...its coef. of static and dynamic friction between tube and post. You need to rough up your Thomson post. I too ride Thomson posts. Even with serrations they many times slip. Do NOT rough up the seat tube ID. You can create enough friction with roughing the post as they come painted and are slippery. Also you can use carbon paste or hair spray to further increase friction. Again, seat post slipping has nothing to do with the tolerance of the seat tube ID. It may cause some toggling which can be abated with a piece of tape around the end of the seat post however...but slippage is caused due to lack of friction. My Ti Fly's post is perfectly sized and doesn't slip with carbon paste. With unabraided Thomson post it will slip or it did when I installed it.

    Now my question. I too run an SLX crank which has been great but it is a triple. I have been considering going to a single chainring in front like you have. My question is...did you purchase a different chainring for your SLX cranks or did you buy it that way? If you removed all the rings to replace with a different chainring did you grind off the granny ring mounting bosses?

    Congrats.
    FYI, I've had one of these frames in the past and the seattube was so oversized the seatpost would drop all the way in with the clamp untightened. They ARE oversized but with some carbon paste and a double bolt clamp the post would stay put. I tried a Thomson Elite, Sette APX and ControlTech post and they all fell all the way in. I don't know if it's within "normal" tolerances for some frames to do this or not but my CDale, Scott, Turner and Yeti are all a tight fight

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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX View Post
    FYI, I've had one of these frames in the past and the seattube was so oversized the seatpost would drop all the way in with the clamp untightened. They ARE oversized but with some carbon paste and a double bolt clamp the post would stay put. I tried a Thomson Elite, Sette APX and ControlTech post and they all fell all the way in. I don't know if it's within "normal" tolerances for some frames to do this or not but my CDale, Scott, Turner and Yeti are all a tight fight
    Mine isn't Line to line.
    Fell all the way in? Hopefully your seat clamp kept them from being gone for good...lol.
    I have to say I am surprised to hear this but possible there are outliars I supposed. Ti tubing that comprises the seat tube is spec'ed to pretty close tolerances.
    Again, mine is as good a fit as any bike I have owned. Also the workmanship on the frame and weld quality couldn't be much better. The good news is an oversized tube does not represent a performance issue. Too tight a seat tube is more problematic.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider7 View Post
    Too tight a seat tube is more problematic.
    I completely agree When I say it was oversized, I hope I don't deter anyone away from enjoying or buying one of these frames. They really are fantastic for what you pay! The welds are great and they're light as hell Some basic fiddling with your post and clamp, IF you have an issue, wouldn't be enough to turn me away.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider7 View Post
    Thanks for the advice about the SLX crankset with single Salsa chainring. I agree about the SLX cranks...they have been flawless...dead quiet BB and stiff.
    Do you have a suggestion for a supplier for the thicker Salsa 36t ring? For a single ring I would prefer a 34t if available. Great that the same bolts can be used since the Salsa ring is thicker. Please let me know if you would and Thanks again.

    Edit:I have found a 34t Salsa ring without Pins or Ramps on line. Please see pic below.
    Did you mount your Salsa ring to the 'outside' position on the SLX triple spider? If so, does this hurt the chainline when running to the largest cassette cogs in back?
    Or...would it be best to mount the Salsa ring to the middle position if this is possible?
    I mounted it on the outside mount and it is fine. I have no noise from the rear derailleur or up front at the chain keeper. The tolerances are very tight on the CRD. If the drivetrain was under any strain I would know it. So far there hasn't been any. I got the salsa chainring from QBP at work so unfortunately I dont have a source for you. That looks exactly like the ring I have. I have to work tomorrow and if I can remember i'll look up what exact line of rings it is under for you.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydrolaw View Post
    I mounted it on the outside mount and it is fine. I have no noise from the rear derailleur or up front at the chain keeper. The tolerances are very tight on the CRD. If the drivetrain was under any strain I would know it. So far there hasn't been any. I got the salsa chainring from QBP at work so unfortunately I dont have a source for you. That looks exactly like the ring I have. I have to work tomorrow and if I can remember i'll look up what exact line of rings it is under for you.
    Thanks. It appears from the excellent pics you provided that the Salsa ring was mounted on the outside position where the largest ring used to reside and I wanted to confirm. There is much speculation about 1 X 9 and running the whole width of a 9 cog cassette with a single chainring as you know. I believe conventional wisdom is...for the best chain line when converting a triple which is very popular...is to use the middle ring position for the single chainring. What this does...at least eyeballing on my Ti Fly, is create a straight chainline on the middle ring in front running to the center of the cassette in back...the best one can do really for reduced X chaining in big and small cogs in back when traversing the whole width of a cassette with a single chainring in front.

    Below is an alternative approach to what you did that I am considering for my SLX triple crankset as I believe I will move forward with 1 X 9. Have a look:

    http://www.rideonenine.com/blog/1x9-conversion-dummies

    What this approach does is use a bashguard on the outside to keep from having the chain fall off outboard and uses a device for keeping the chain from falling inboard. Its a nice approach without paying the price for a Widgit which also uses the middle ring position.

    Anyway, I wanted to share that as our bikes are always a work in progress and lots a ways to skin a cat.
    Cheers.
    Last edited by dirtrider7; 06-05-2011 at 05:14 AM.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydrolaw View Post
    I think the fork could easily be sold. We have guys in our shop that are always buying decnt bikes that come with a junk fork that would eat a deal like that up. If youve got a friend in a bike shop, ask one of them if anyone has mentioned that scenario. If not, theres always ebay. Rebas are good forks. Im only changing out because the parts for a fox will be around for days, years to come.
    You should keep all of your customers buying online. Soon you will be looking for work when your shop closes.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    You should keep all of your customers buying online. Soon you will be looking for work when your shop closes.
    i dont work in a bike shop but i do work in retail/sales, and we are always sending customers online to buy something that we couldnt get for them at a better price. hell, we will find the product and sometimes order it for them. customer service. you build the best relationship possible and they will spend money at your establishment, its that simple. they we also be loyal customers. i wish my lbs was capable of understanding this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ssdark1 View Post
    i dont work in a bike shop but i do work in retail/sales, and we are always sending customers online to buy something that we couldnt get for them at a better price. hell, we will find the product and sometimes order it for them. customer service. you build the best relationship possible and they will spend money at your establishment, its that simple. they we also be loyal customers. i wish my lbs was capable of understanding this.
    Unfortunately it does not work. They keep coming to you for deals then when you cant do it they go online. In the long term you will go out of business with this model. They end up taking all of your time and you bleed out money. I know what I am talking about, I was known for the absolute best customer service and now I am bankrupt and unemployeed. And probably will be living on the street in a couple of months, but hey I was a nice guy who helped people out, sure did get me far.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydrolaw View Post

    As for the chain line. It seems to mount and line up perfectly with the outside mounting holes. The ring I have is of the same line you have. Good luck with the build!
    Running 1x10 on mine and there's no way the top 2 cogs on my cassette would be usable if my chainring was in the outer position. I don't know how that works for you. But, a 36t won't fit in the middle position anyway. I'm using a 32t gamut ring.


  32. #32
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    I'm not saying I would primarily send a customer online. But I do know some people that would like to upgrade a fork that simply cannot afford the fork I can sell them.they can then go online to a forum such as this and then find said fork at a good price for someone just looking to get rid of it. Of course I primarily sell our stuff. I was simply stating that there would be a market for his Reba should h decide to go with the frame despite not wanting the fork. We are one of the top fifty trek dealers in the nation so I don't see bankruptcy in our near future. But hell, I'm just a wrench. I don't own the place. I'm genuinely sorry to hear about your financial troubles. Our business' should be booming what with pollution and gas being at an all time high. That and it just sucks outright that a guy can't just be friendly and have a business that will flourish. You almost, well not almost, you have to be a snake to be a businessman in this world. It really sucks, but you know what they say, money has no conscious.

    As for the chain line. It seems to mount and line up perfectly with the outside mounting holes. The ring I have is of the same line you have. Good luck with the build!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Running 1x10 on mine and there's no way the top 2 cogs on my cassette would be usable if my chainring was in the outer position. I don't know how that works for you. But, a 36t won't fit in the middle position anyway. I'm using a 32t gamut ring.

    I don't see how you can make this assertion. (in bold above) A 32t chainring has a measured radius of ~65mm. Since radius is proportional to tooth count, i.e diameter, a 38t chainring has a max. dia. radius of 78mm or 13mm closer to the chainstay from BB centerline. On my Ti Fly with SLX triple cranks, in the middle position the 32t ring is about 16mm from the chainstay. A 38t chainring should fit in the middle position. I am about to test this thesis. I have a non ramped/pinned 38t chainring on order for the middle position of my SLX triple crank...about to convert to 1 X 9.
    A 38t middle ring maybe close but should clear the chainstay on my size Large Ti Fly.
    Maybe the smaller size frame Ti Fly's are tighter to the chainstay in the BB area or your crank spacing is different relative to the SLX tho the same crank mfr.

    PS: I do agree with you about running a single ring on the outside of a triple crank. Chainline will not be ideal to the largest inboard cogs in back but a further disclaimer is the OP's XL frame size probably has longer chainstays which helps X chain tolerance.

  34. #34
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    seat slippage on Moto fly Ti is a known problem. I tried to over tighten and strip a couple of bolts. What i did with mine(sold it) was shim it w/ a 1x1 piece of aluminum i cut out from a empty beer can Never slip again.

  35. #35
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    The Fly Ti 29er is a great riding bike, but the non-stop creaking has driven me nuts since I bought it in November 2009. Seat post clamp has never been a problem though.
    Whoever invented the bicycle deserves the thanks of humanity.
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    nice 29er setup hydrolaw!!

    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    The Fly Ti 29er is a great riding bike, but the non-stop creaking has driven me nuts since I bought it in November 2009. Seat post clamp has never been a problem though.
    where's the creaking coming from?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider7 View Post
    I don't see how you can make this assertion. (in bold above) A 32t chainring has a measured radius of ~65mm. Since radius is proportional to tooth count, i.e diameter, a 38t chainring has a max. dia. radius of 78mm or 13mm closer to the chainstay from BB centerline. On my Ti Fly with SLX triple cranks, in the middle position the 32t ring is about 16mm from the chainstay. A 38t chainring should fit in the middle position. I am about to test this thesis. I have a non ramped/pinned 38t chainring on order for the middle position of my SLX triple crank...about to convert to 1 X 9.
    A 38t middle ring maybe close but should clear the chainstay on my size Large Ti Fly.
    Maybe the smaller size frame Ti Fly's are tighter to the chainstay in the BB area or your crank spacing is different relative to the SLX tho the same crank mfr.

    PS: I do agree with you about running a single ring on the outside of a triple crank. Chainline will not be ideal to the largest inboard cogs in back but a further disclaimer is the OP's XL frame size probably has longer chainstays which helps X chain tolerance.
    Yes, I use a 36/24 on my Moto and it feets very well:

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by gambas View Post
    Yes, I use a 36/24 on my Moto and it feets very well:
    Gambas,
    Thanks for posting that. Can you take a quick look at your bike and see how much clearance you have front to back from tip of 36t chainring teeth to your chainstay?

    Was quite confident a 36t would fit. Many XC racers on different brand bikes run a 40t/26t on a triple with 40t in middle position is why I ask. I figure 'maybe' a 40t chainring would fit in the middle position of a triple on a Ti Fly. Is your bike a size Large?
    Thanks again.

  39. #39
    Rollin 29s
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabworks View Post
    where's the creaking coming from?
    Multiple sources over time. The seat post, bottom bracket, head set, crank arms and hub quick releases have all been causes. Once fixed, they stay silent for a while and then eventually start creaking again. The common denominator is that the creaking always comes from a spot where an aluminum or steel component is in direct contact with the titanium. In the case of the bottom bracket and seat post, galvanic corrosion (corrosive reaction between dissimilar metals) could be seen between the aluminum and titanium. Grease was a very short term fix. Bearing retaining compound works better, but my seat post is now stuck in the frame. The latest source appears to be the rear hub quick release. I can not physically tighten it any more, but there is still slight movement (creaking) between the hub and drop outs when cranking hard up hills.

    I've owned a half dozen mountain bikes over the past 20 years and have never experienced a bike that makes as much noise as this one.
    Whoever invented the bicycle deserves the thanks of humanity.
    - Lord Charles Beresford

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by snellvilleGAbiker View Post
    seat slippage on Moto fly Ti is a known problem. I tried to over tighten and strip a couple of bolts. What i did with mine(sold it) was shim it w/ a 1x1 piece of aluminum i cut out from a empty beer can Never slip again.
    I believe the factory original clamp is smaller (34.0mm) The couple after market clamps I tried did not work well. I may have the factory one sent off to the anodizing house so I can have a blingly red one that doesn't slip.


    Dave.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by snellvilleGAbiker View Post
    seat slippage on Moto fly Ti is a known problem. I tried to over tighten and strip a couple of bolts. What i did with mine(sold it) was shim it w/ a 1x1 piece of aluminum i cut out from a empty beer can Never slip again.
    A thomson clamp solved that issue for me.

  42. #42
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    1 X 9 Ti Fly with a twist

    Add me to the list. Initially I built the Fly frameset up with Reba Race suspension fork, Nanoraptor tires and SLX triple. I rode the bike this way for a season and it really did everything I could ask off road. Then after 13 years of city council debates, it was finally decided to pave the trail near my house which is out in the country on a dirt road. That trail was always a mess in particular from being built from the wrong stuff and having horses down it once in a while and so I really needed a suspension fork. Now I have about 20 miles of asphalt to ride through the woods and no longer need fat tires, redundant gears or a suspension fork.
    I started with the tires and the fork to get a sense of the gearing I would need and just finished with the crank. I am posting this in part to highlight the versatility of the 29er.
    I went Vittoria Randy tires in 32mm for flat protection for an overall change in balance from short distance on dirt and long distance on pavement…they measure 29mm in cross section btw and a Salsa Chromoly rigid fork which is probably the best value rigid fork for the money out there…about 100 bux shipped. I knew the SLX crank was convertible to a single chainring as it is a popular crank to mod. Have to love the SLX crank…cheap, stiff and durable. I ran it first as a triple, shifted the spacer over and dropped the granny to improve chainline and ran it as a double and now a single ring. I rode the now paved trail long enough to figure out the gear inches I need with the skinnier and shorter tires...no longer technically a 29er. I was always between the 44 and 32 rings on the pavement so settled on a 38t middle position single chainring and hoped it would clear the chainstay. I wanted to update this thread because there was some speculation of how big a chainring you can run in front in the middle position. Also, my set up is an alternative to the OP with what I beleve is a better overall position of a single chainring in front...in the middle.
    I agree with the poster that wrote no way the chainline would be managable for the biggest two inboard cogs in back if running the chainring on the outside position. Also, I prefer sandwiching the middle ring with a light bash on the outside and chain stop inboard versus using a device that captures the chain. This is just preference. To my delight, while waiting for the parts and wondering...the 38t chainring cleared the chainstay on my size Large Ti Fly easily with SLX cranks with single 2.5mm spacer properly positioned on the drive side of the Ti Fly 73mm BB for the best overall chainline. A 40t ring may even fit but it would be close. Have a look at the pic below which illustrates the clearance.
    Also with FSA 3mm ss ring with no ramps or pins and Raceface lightweight bash, I could use the stock bolts with proper thread engagement. I used a N-Gear chain stop to keep the chain from falling inboard which seems to work fine.

    The reason why I am running a 38t is because I need the gear inches up top. I am an average strength rider and a roadie and the 38t single ring is the best compromise of long gear inches on the flats and short inches with 34-11 in back for brief climbs with skinny tires. With higher volume tires the gearing becomes taller of course and likely a 34 or 36t single chainring would be better not to mention overcome additional rolling resistance.

    Impressions: I like it a lot and gotta love the versatility of the 29er platform. Basically what now has been created is a simple bike that can take some rough stuff with stout frame and solid wheels but will still have decent speed on pavement. Simple is best provided one's objectives are met which for me in this case they are. I love the Fly rigid with touring tires. Unlike my road bike it will negotiate dirt roads to get to the smooth stuff and in the city is a bit more upright and I can see traffic better and can jump off curbs if I want . I believe the bike would be great rigid off road as well provided trails weren't too rough with some Crows or high volume tires if say I decide to put the nano's back on in the winter. 1 X 9 simply rocks. The key is…you need to find the sweet spot for gearing based upon the tires and terrain you ride.

    Hope that helps others considering 1 X 9 on the Ti Fly bike which is a great bike to ride rigid in whatever configuration because of the compliancy of the Ti frame. I would say it is only 1-2 mph on average slower than my carbon road bike which is about as the fast as it gets on the smooth stuff without a motor.
    I like motorbikes too tho as many others do here.

    PS: my thanks to all the fellow bike addicts that helped shape my understanding of options with 1 X 9.







    Last edited by dirtrider7; 07-09-2011 at 04:59 AM.

  43. #43
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    Here's my 1X9 (convertible to 2X9) custom crank on my FLY team TI:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Fly Team ti build.-imgp4548.jpg  


  44. #44
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    @max- You wouldn't want to accidentally hit your front shifter when running in 1x mode. That could be disasterous!
    Check out www.zencyclery.com for fully customizable, handbuilt wheels.

    www.facebook.com/zencyclerywheels

  45. #45
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    I've yet to do so... I trimed down the uper range so I can't move the derailleur higher than the 32 sprocket, so I can't shift off the outside. I'm looking for a 22t ring for the inside (they're proprietary offset XTR deals, not cheap). So until then I just watch what I do with that shifter. It's actually pretty cool because it's like a chainguide that I can micro adjust, and if the chain doea fall off the inside, I can use the derailleur to help push it back on without dismounting. The design of the crank doesn't let the chain get sucked in next to the BB.

  46. #46
    The perfessor
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    getting my new frame built up - I stripped my SS 29er to get this into ride-ready shape, but it will eventually be designed as a geared bike........I have the crank (Shimano XT) but I am waiting to get shifters / derailleurs before going further...........btw, got the homemade chainstay protector on until I get one of those, too....................
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Fly Team ti build.-imag0132.jpg  

    Rigid 29er Ti SS
    KHS Solo One SE 29er
    29er SC Tallboy AL
    Paketa Magnesium Road Bike

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