Monstercross build thoughts- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Idea! Monstercross build thoughts

    Hi,


    Really excited to get back riding after a long break. Due to other hobbies I won't have allot of free time to do real MTB in my area but I also miss the pure aerobic workout of a road bike, so of course a gravel/CX is the best option.

    But, I like to build stuff, and I have ton of gear laying around to mess with, so lets forget about the costs and just give me your best feedback and comments. This is the build I had in mind:

    • HT 29er, one size down from my regular MTB, stripped down, taking only the frame, wheels & disc brakes
    • Carbon dropbar
    • Rigid carbon fork (with color matching to the frame for max speed )
    • Road levers with new rear derailleur
    • drop the front mech, switch to 1x8 with 44T x 11-42T
    • 35/38C tires


    What do you think? Would it fast on the road? I'm not looking for a TT bike but will it take just a bit more effort or allot to keep up with common roadies?

    My main rides would be on the road - thats how it is here, but I also have allot of gravel/fire roads to mess around with.

    After ton of reading (thanks for all the great info in the forum) I've decided to take a medium size (17.5") for my size (6' or 1.83m) just for being able to get the road dropbar position more naturally.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    sizing MXC bikes is an odd topic. I would think that you would want a reach measurement similar to what you want on a road bike, assuming you're going to use the hoods and drops. are you planning to ride like that, or slide the hoods way down the hooks and mostly use them there?

    the problem with a lot of mtb frames is that the stack is going to be too low to be useful, so you're going to need a weird-looking, super tall stem or a mountain of spacers under your stem. or both. if you're comfortable with that, go for it. be aware that many carbon forks are going to put a limit on how many spacers you can put on the steerer tube.

    have some fun with this: Stack and reach calculator

  3. #3
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    I gotta ask; why 1x8? I would understand 1x10/11/12 or 2x8/9/10 but not 1x8. Parts are cheap enough and common enought that a 2x10 or 1x11 setup would be extremely easy and cheap to build up.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUGlife View Post
    I gotta ask; why 1x8? I would understand 1x10/11/12 or 2x8/9/10 but not 1x8. Parts are cheap enough and common enought that a 2x10 or 1x11 setup would be extremely easy and cheap to build up.

    The current wheels come with a 8 speed hub and I simply didn't want to change that since I have an 8 speed cassette laying around.
    Is it really that different from 10 speed ? assuming the top and bottom ends are roughly the same, are the jumps at 8 speed cassette that big to notice?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    sizing MXC bikes is an odd topic. I would think that you would want a reach measurement similar to what you want on a road bike, assuming you're going to use the hoods and drops. are you planning to ride like that, or slide the hoods way down the hooks and mostly use them there?

    the problem with a lot of mtb frames is that the stack is going to be too low to be useful, so you're going to need a weird-looking, super tall stem or a mountain of spacers under your stem. or both. if you're comfortable with that, go for it. be aware that many carbon forks are going to put a limit on how many spacers you can put on the steerer tube.

    have some fun with this: Stack and reach calculator
    I'm planning to ride road style, I really love the feeling riding in the drops, also the versatility of the road bike handlebar in terms of hand positions. I actually sat on the bike I'm planning to modify (my little sister mtb :-) ) and it felt pretty similar to my road bike with a 6deg/100mm stem.

    Any comments on how will it perform on the road? On the trails I'm pretty certain it gonna be fun

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcohen View Post
    The current wheels come with a 8 speed hub and I simply didn't want to change that since I have an 8 speed cassette laying around.
    Is it really that different from 10 speed ? assuming the top and bottom ends are roughly the same, are the jumps at 8 speed cassette that big to notice?
    You would be much better with at least a double chainring at the front then. From experience (on a gravel bike with an 8-speed alfine hub) it's not that big a deal for the first hour or two but as the ride gets longer you definitely find places where you will wish you could dial in a 'perfect' gear ratio. It will be a long shallow climb or something where you will either be pushing too hard a gear or spinning because you can't nail down a good gear with only 8 speeds.

    Plus if it's a 1x system you're going to have a hard time getting a standard 8 speed derailleur to work well with an extended cassette. Don't try to reinvent the wheel, just go 2/3x8 and you will be much happier. It's not until you can pack on 11-12 speeds that 1x makes sense IMO.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcohen View Post
    Hi,


    Really excited
    Thanks!



    Deduct 70 mm from your usual virtual top tube measurement for a starting point.
    I ncredibly
    M yopic
    B ackstabbing
    A ssholes

  8. #8
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    Slap on some Compass Barlow Pass TC extralights.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by life behind bars View Post
    Deduct 70 mm from your usual virtual top tube measurement for a starting point.
    that sounds about right. a drop-bar bike that fits me usually has a 540-550 mm ETT, but a mountain bike that fits me is 600-615.

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