Lenz Leviathan Pivot Bearing Overhaul- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 36 of 36
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    119

    Lenz Leviathan Pivot Bearing Overhaul

    I'm wondering if anyone has redone their pivot bearings on a Leviathan? My bike is creaking while pedaling and I seem to have eliminated all the other usual suspects (drivetrain, seat, seatpost, pedals, cranks, etc.) and am now thinking it is the pivot bearings. Last weekend I pulled the cranks and lifted the seals off the lower swingarm bearings. They seem to be press-fit into the swingarm so I didn't replace them but merely cleaned them out as best I could, re-greased them and replaced the seals. Does it take a special driver to completely remove the bearings and install new ones? If so, where can you buy a driver to do this?

    Unfortunately, this didn't eliminate or even minimize my creak. I still think it is something in the pivots as the creak is greatly diminished (although not completely eliminated) when I lock-out my rear shock. I guess the next place to go is the top swingarm pivot. This one also seems to have press-fit sealed bearings. However, I think it may be very difficult to just pry-off the seals like I did with the lower bearings as they are recessed pretty far into the swingarm itself. The rest of the pivots look like they are handled by some type of bushing. Any advice or experience anyone has on rebuilding Leviathan pivots would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    201
    I have had my Leviathan pivots replaced because the main one totally froze up, but I didn't do them myself so I can't help you with that. However, I once had a strange creak that I was finally able to track down to the rocker arm. It only happened when I was pedaling. Once I unscrewed the bolts, put some lube in there and reassembled the creak went away. I always make sure to put some tri-flow in all the rocker arm pivots now after I wash it.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,073
    Did you also happen to check the shock Bushings? They are a major creak creator if they get worn.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    119

    Creaks

    Thanks for the responses. I'll pull-out the pivot bolts and check the shock bushings. It's kind of funny but I'm slowly working from the bottom of the bike up. It may be that I've washed it one too many times and I haven't been putting anything on the rocker pivot bolts. Good idea!

  5. #5
    Politically Incorrect
    Reputation: motoenth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    643
    Quote Originally Posted by tbowren
    I have had my Leviathan pivots replaced because the main one totally froze up, but I didn't do them myself so I can't help you with that. However, I once had a strange creak that I was finally able to track down to the rocker arm. It only happened when I was pedaling. Once I unscrewed the bolts, put some lube in there and reassembled the creak went away. I always make sure to put some tri-flow in all the rocker arm pivots now after I wash it.
    Bingo. The 'clicks' or 'creaks' on mine come from the rocker arm. I've never had a problem with the main pivot (at the front of the chainstay).
    Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  6. #6
    NMBP
    Reputation: crashtestdummy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    2,159
    I get a lot of creaks on my Moth due to the dusty nature of the trails and roads to the trails that I ride. I routinely used compressed air to blow out the dust from the pivot areas. I have also found that if I lube the cable stops I eliminated a lot of my creaks.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  7. #7
    .......................
    Reputation: ionsmuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,049
    This just confirms my belief that washing one's bike is a bad idea. Over 150 miles on the Lev this weekend, and no creaks (or anything but pure delight in the bike).

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    245
    My Lev has been squeeking a but too. Brian at the Path suggested it could be the bushings in the shock and suggested lubbing it little. I tried that and it did seem to help but not much time has passed since them. I do think my squeek is coming from the shock itself though and bearings or pivot points of the bikes suspension.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    119

    You Guys Are Awesome

    Once again the collective wisdom of the Forum prevails! The creak turned-out to be on the top shock mount pivot and bushing. I took out all the swinglink pivots and greased them and my creak is totally gone! Thanks again for all the responses and ideas. You solved a problem that was bugging me for weeks!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    245
    Quote Originally Posted by ABRider
    Once again the collective wisdom of the Forum prevails! The creak turned-out to be on the top shock mount pivot and bushing. I took out all the swinglink pivots and greased them and my creak is totally gone! Thanks again for all the responses and ideas. You solved a problem that was bugging me for weeks!
    So that's a bushing, not a bearing? I need to take mine apart and check it out too. I periodically hose my bike off too with a couple of quick blasts of water ( I know I shouldn't but I like to clean it up once in a while). Any tricks to taking it apart?

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    119

    Leviathan Overhaul

    It's really pretty straightforward. I would make sure you have some good grease for the pivot bolts which have a flat (non-threaded area). The shock bushings are all-aluminum so no worries about a grease breaking-down any teflon/plastic bushings. The trickiest part is the lower pivot, which is the one on the seatpost tube. This one actually has a sealed bearing similar to the top pivot. I did not take apart the sealed bearing itself in either case. There are two washers that go inside of the swinglink itself (sitting directly on top of the sealed bearings) and it is a bit hard to get them aligned to drive the pivot bolt through when you reassemble this part of the swinglink. It just took a fair amount of fiddle time to get it all lined-up. I didn't even bother with the bottom shock mount bushings and bolt as they don't seem to move at all as the suspension moves through its travel. I will continue to wash my bike when it's dirty but I will probably do it less frequently and make more of an effort to avoid all of the pivots. Good luck.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    245
    Quote Originally Posted by ABRider
    It's really pretty straightforward. I would make sure you have some good grease for the pivot bolts which have a flat (non-threaded area). The shock bushings are all-aluminum so no worries about a grease breaking-down any teflon/plastic bushings. The trickiest part is the lower pivot, which is the one on the seatpost tube. This one actually has a sealed bearing similar to the top pivot. I did not take apart the sealed bearing itself in either case. There are two washers that go inside of the swinglink itself (sitting directly on top of the sealed bearings) and it is a bit hard to get them aligned to drive the pivot bolt through when you reassemble this part of the swinglink. It just took a fair amount of fiddle time to get it all lined-up. I didn't even bother with the bottom shock mount bushings and bolt as they don't seem to move at all as the suspension moves through its travel. I will continue to wash my bike when it's dirty but I will probably do it less frequently and make more of an effort to avoid all of the pivots. Good luck.
    Thanks! It makes sense that the bushing would squeek before any sealed bearings start to squeek. Is that top bushing the only bushing on the bike? It seems like the ones at the end of the chain stay might be bushings too but those barely move.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    119

    Bushings

    The only other bushing is at the bottom shock mount but that part doesn't really move. I don't know if the pivot at the end of seatstay has a bushing since I didn't take that apart. When I removed the top swingarm mount and flexed the swingarm it did seem like the pivot in the back didn't have much action. I know on my Yeti they say that the back pivot on the seatstay moves less than 1/16th on an inch on 5.75 inches of travel. In the Yeti case they don't even have a pivot it is just a thin section of carbon fiber that flexes.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    172
    Quote Originally Posted by tbowren
    I have had my Leviathan pivots replaced because the main one totally froze up, but I didn't do them myself so I can't help you with that. However, I once had a strange creak that I was finally able to track down to the rocker arm. It only happened when I was pedaling. Once I unscrewed the bolts, put some lube in there and reassembled the creak went away. I always make sure to put some tri-flow in all the rocker arm pivots now after I wash it.
    tbowren, who did the replacing for you? Did they go back to Lenz for the replacement bearing?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    172
    My Leviathan has been creaking a lot lately. I'm pretty sure it's being caused by the sealed bearing (B in the photo) seizing. I pulled the swing link off and noticed that the inner metal sleeve was not rotating freely. I lubed it up until it spun better and then rode it. The squeak was still there but definitely not as pronounced. Only happens during hard climbing or rocky conditions. No more bike washing for me. Anybody know the process for replacing that bearing? Guess I could call Lenz. I'd like to know the recommended torque specs for those bolts as well. Thanks.

    Last edited by srwings; 09-04-2008 at 08:43 AM.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by srwings
    tbowren, who did the replacing for you? Did they go back to Lenz for the replacement bearing?
    Luckily my LBS is The Path and they do all the frame related stuff on my bikes. They have sold many Lenz bikes so they know them very well. They did not go back to Lenz, all the work was done in the shop. The main bearing was a standard size, but the smaller ones on near the rear wheel were something they said they had to contact Devin about.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    172
    I spoke to Devin Lenz today about the bearings. The seat tube pivot (B on the above pic) is a #626 6mm sealed cartridge bearing. The swing arm pivot is a 608 type. I'm planning on replacing my bearings soon so I guess I'll order the ceramic ones. Pricing is about $14 each for the #626 ceramics. FYI- the VXB fully ceramic 626's are $50 each.

    Devin wasn't aware of anyone needing to replace these. As far as the actual replacement process, he said you could punch these out if you were careful but the recommended way was to use an arbor press. He also said that at some point he'll post info on bearing replacement on his web site. And finally, I asked about bolt torque settings. He didn't have a specific range. Just not too tight or too loose.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    84

    Lenz Leviathan Creaking - Maybe this will help?

    Hi,

    I just stumbled across this so thread maybe you are all past this but I thought I'd share my experience. I bought a used 2007 Lev 4.0 and I love it but it has an annoying creak that I traced to the suspension.
    I removed, cleaned, lubed and replaced shock top and bottom bushings - no difference.
    I replaced all the pivot bearings (these are 626 RS bearings in all but the main swingarm pivots and those are 608 RS)
    (good source for bearings is http://www.locateballbearings.com/ or from Enduro Bearings.com). That didn't stop the creak but I am glad I did it anyway because at least half of them were starting to seize up and needed replacing. It is not a hard job and I can provide details if it would help anybody.
    I tried to disassemble the rear pivots (near the dropouts) but got into trouble and had to get detailed instruction from Devin Lenz how to do it. Once I knew the trick, it was not difficult but since I didn't have replacement parts, I just put it back together without changing anything.
    I still had the creak and since all other suspension parts were new, I just put a few drops of chain lube on those rearmost pivots. Voila, after a minute or so to sink into the pivot, the creak is gone.
    I consider that a temporary fix and I do plan to order a new bushing kit for that back pivot now that I know how to change it.
    But, if your Lenz is creaking, try a little lube right on that rear pivot. If it fixes it at least yo know where the problem is. If it doesn't, I feel your pain. But bearings that are in the process of freezing can easily cause a creak so it is important to check/change those every few years I believe.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bonesetter2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,848
    Exactly the same on my old moth. Managed to locate the creak source before going to too much trouble though

    I spotted some lube onto the top of the pivot and it it went away almost instantly

    What removal 'trick' did Devin Lenz give?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    84

    moth creak

    just curious if you find you need to periodically add some lube or does it stay quiet for long periods? i had a titus racer x for years and those rear horst bushings were a constant pain that required relubing. titus says they replaced those with self-lubing bushings...

    the difficulty with disassembling the lenz rear pivots is that there is a thin metal sleeve that passes through chain and seat stays. it presses up against a "permanent" backing nut on the inside and is flush with the outside of the seat stay so there is no apparent way to pull it out and you can't separate the seatstays from the chainstays (and replace the pivot bushings) unless you remove it.

    so, you use a 5 mm tap and carefully thread it into the inside of the sleeve until the tap is nearly touching the backing nut. you may be able to pull it out by hand at that point. if not, you can use a small punch and tap the pointy end of the tap and it will hopefully force the tap/sleeve outward. it worked like a charm for me but it does require care and a little finesse.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bonesetter2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,848
    The lube thing worked so well I think I only needed to do it once, maybe twice (one season ownership from new I must add).

    Neat trick for removal. I was told of a Mikesee 'trick' for removal of those when mine was creaking, but I can't remember how it went or if it was the same method as the one you posted Perhaps one of the Lenz regulars will come in

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Soupboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,040
    My Moth finally started creaking only lately after 3+ years of ownership (not washing your bike pays dividends). Completely disassembled my Whirlys twice thinking they were the issue because it only occurred whilst pedaling.

    Off to lube pivots during lunch and will report back.
    Professional Amateur

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    245
    Quote Originally Posted by davek
    I still had the creak and since all other suspension parts were new, I just put a few drops of chain lube on those rearmost pivots. Voila, after a minute or so to sink into the pivot, the creak is gone.
    By rear most pivot, do you mean the ones by the cassette on the back wheel. My lenz has a bad squeek that I can't trace right now. I tend to leave those rear most pivots along but drop a little white lightning in the other pivots from time to time and it does help. I have to check out those rear pivots. I tend to leave them along because those small button head screws sure strip out thier heads easily.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    84

    rear pivots

    yup, the rearmost pivots, right at the junction of the seat and chainstays. stripping out the little bolts could be a problem because they are assembled with a red loctite. but, pulling the sleeve out is the tricky part and i wouldn't recommend it unless you have pretty good mechanical/repair experience and know how to be gentle.

    i am surprised the white lightning helped on the other pivots since they are bearings whereas the rear pivots are bushings. you might want to be a little careful using white lightning back there. i don't think a waxy buildup in and around those bushings would necessarily be a good thing.

    maybe you could try a good chain lube like BoeShield and make sure everything is wiped very clean around it so the pivot won't attract dust?

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    84

    yup

    it's gotta be about the hardest thing sometimes isolating where a creak is coming from. i thought it was drivetrain but i was finally able to eliminate that by pedaling along, getting the creak started, then unclicking both feet but sort of bouncing my ass on the seat to simulate my continued unsmooth pedaling and since the creak kept going i knew it wasn't the suspension any more. let us know if the lube silences it.

    i agree with you that not washing a bike makes the pivots last longer.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Soupboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,040
    After using a toothbrush to get whatever dust/crud I could off the pivot areas I delivered a Peter Northian dollop of Dumonde Tech to each pivot, drowning every crack.

    I've yet to trail-test but driveway/street Pro Review implies creaking eliminated.

    I didn't go pivot by pivot so I can't say which was the culprit. Self-inflicted failwound to the dome.

    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    My Moth finally started creaking only lately after 3+ years of ownership (not washing your bike pays dividends). Completely disassembled my Whirlys twice thinking they were the issue because it only occurred whilst pedaling. Off to lube pivots during lunch and will report back.
    Professional Amateur

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    172
    I had forgotten about this post. That's my Lev in the photo. I bought the ceramic bearing last year but never installed it. I just give it a shot of WD-40 before I ride and it's good to go. Eventually, I'll get around to replacing it.

  28. #28
    Working Man's Toilet
    Reputation: D3DO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    834
    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    Pro Review
    I am impressed with said "Pro Review"

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Soupboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,040
    Quote Originally Posted by D3DO
    I am impressed with said "Pro Review"
    Thanks, I got my Pro Review Black Belt under Sensei Fo.
    Professional Amateur

  30. #30
    Working Man's Toilet
    Reputation: D3DO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    834
    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    Thanks, I got my Pro Review Black Belt under Sensei Fo.
    I noticed, hence my reference and appreciation for said review- keep 'em coming.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Soupboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,040
    Quote Originally Posted by D3DO
    I noticed, hence my reference and appreciation for said review- keep 'em coming.
    Thanx pally wally but I'm on the PainTrain to BanTown thankful to butthurt pu$$ies that can't absorb the concept of different cranx for different folkz.
    Professional Amateur

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bonesetter2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,848
    This might make some difference so I thought I would add it in

    I de-aired the shock, so after spotting some lube onto the rear bushings I could 'full travel' the suspension a few times to work in the lube - just remembered that...

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    266
    Check your bushings on the seat stay......about 2 inches forward of the rear axle..... When they wear you can get some creeking....and clicking......
    Best thing it to tilt the bike away from you......then sort of step on a low pedal......put some side ways torque on it..... Then walk on the other side....do the same on the opposite pedal..... If you get a big creek/ click....your rear bushing could be moving. They are pressed in there, but can be moved with a small c-clamp....


    Erling

  34. #34
    Working Man's Toilet
    Reputation: D3DO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    834
    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    Thanx pally wally but I'm on the PainTrain to BanTown thankful to butthurt pu$$ies that can't absorb the concept of different cranx for different folkz.
    If you aren't skating that fine line, you wouldn't be you. Keep it up.
    BTW the aformentioned genitalia is made of thin skin, remember that.

  35. #35
    Tucson, AZ
    Reputation: azepicriderandrunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,974
    This thread came in handy....replacing my bearings, bushings on my 2 yr old Lenz.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by azepicriderandrunner View Post
    This thread came in handy....replacing my bearings, bushings on my 2 yr old Lenz.
    OMG thanks everyone for this thread (I'm seeing it 11 years after it starting!) - I've been trying to eliminate the squeak in my Behemoth for a couple of years, got to the point of boxing up the frame and putting into storage because the squeak annoyed me so much. I then got the motivation to pull it back out, replaced all bearings, bought a new shock with new bushings etc. but the noise remained!

    I just squirted some teflon lube in those rear pivots near the cassette and the noise has gone completely....back in action!

    DrChris

Members who have read this thread: 11

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.