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  1. #1
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    JET 9 Build

    Any thoughts or advice on the below build? I am in the process of purchasing frame, just need to make final commitment on components, etc. This will mainly be used for XC riding in the Midwest, 24 hour endurance races, and a few fun rides each year in Colorado. I am appx 5'9", 160 lbs and this will be my first full suspension bike.

    Frame: 2010 JET 9
    Fork: XX Reba w/hydro loc (not sure I really need lock-out)
    Components: XO (thinking about X9)
    Wheel: Stan's ZTR 355 wheels/ ZTRhubs
    Brakes: Avid Elixer R
    Cassette: SRAM PG-70 12-36 (thinking about Shimano 11-36)
    Cranks: Truvativ Stylo 32 SS (possibly switch to 2x10)
    Stem/Setapost: Thompson
    Headset: FSA
    Handlebars: Bontrager Race Lite
    Saddle: Bontrager Race
    Last edited by kfb66; 01-05-2011 at 05:34 PM.

  2. #2
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    I was considering a similiar build but decided on a Santa Cruz Tallboy instead since I was going to end up with $3000 in it anyways which is probably a good ball park guess for you too.

  3. #3
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    Seems like a nice, moderate build. I would go for the hydro lock. I like it on the JET9 I am on right now. Pretty handy, and it is not set to be a real 'lock-out' like some forks I have had.

    I think the JET9 is a fine endurance racer, and you will be able to get away with light wheels.
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  4. #4
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    Cassette: SRAM PG-70 12-36 (thinking about Shimano 11-36)
    You should use the PG990 or XT cassette. The ZTR hubs (most good hubs for that matter) have an aluminum freehub body, and you will chew it up with a cassette that doesn't have most cogs on an aluminum carrier.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976
    You should use the PG990 or XT cassette. The ZTR hubs (most good hubs for that matter) have an aluminum freehub body, and you will chew it up with a cassette that doesn't have most cogs on an aluminum carrier.
    That's exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for! I have limited experience from a maintenance standpoint so I really appreciate this type of advice.

    If I remember right (from reading), the PG 990 is a 9 spd? I'm really set on either a 1x10 or 2x10 set up so staying with SRAM I believe that means either the PG1070 or OG1090. I also thought I read than many prefer Shimano for cassette, but I can't remember why (performance, durability, etc)?

    My preference would probably be 11-36 cassette, especially if I go 1x10.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    That's exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for! I have limited experience from a maintenance standpoint so I really appreciate this type of advice.

    If I remember right (from reading), the PG 990 is a 9 spd? I'm really set on either a 1x10 or 2x10 set up so staying with SRAM I believe that means either the PG1070 or OG1090. I also thought I read than many prefer Shimano for cassette, but I can't remember why (performance, durability, etc)?

    My preference would probably be 11-36 cassette, especially if I go 1x10.
    I like the Sram stuff but the XT cassette is the 1 to have it is much better IMO than the sram other than XX & that cost heaps.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    I like the Sram stuff but the XT cassette is the 1 to have it is much better IMO than the sram other than XX & that cost heaps.
    I don't remember where but I had heard that before about the XT cassette. Thanks for the feedback and if you have any other thoughts or advice feel free to pass it along, much appreciated!

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    Currently set up to use Stan's ZTR 355 wheels and ZTR hubs. Any thoughts on the benefits of upgrading to American Classic or Swiss DT hubs? I like the idea of light weight, especially where wheels are concerned, but I also place durability and reliability very high.

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    swap the ZTR Crests in for the 355's.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    I don't remember where but I had heard that before about the XT cassette. Thanks for the feedback and if you have any other thoughts or advice feel free to pass it along, much appreciated!
    Ok if you buy the X0 brakes they use the same clamp system as the XX brakes so you can use the poplock remote to mount the brakes & the sram shifters on so the 1 clamp does all 3 on 1 side the brake & shifter can mount off the 1 mount on the other side.

    This is a super nice setup & makes the bars look real clean & tidy

    The Avid brakes that come with this system are elixir CR 2010 not 2011, elixir X0 & XX & XX world cup they all ha single bolt mount & all the others have 2 bolt.
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    Last edited by muzzanic; 01-05-2011 at 09:42 PM.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcavy1
    swap the ZTR Crests in for the 355's.
    Looks like it's about a 25g loss in weight, any other advantage in this swap to Crests? I was actually thinking of maybe going heavier (Arches) to gain more durability, but maybe I'm wrong in that thinking?

    I'm not the kind of rider that has multiple spare wheel sets so I kind of need a set that can do it all for now ... does that change your opinion at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    Ok if you buy the X0 brakes they use the same clamp system as the XX brakes so you can use the poplock remote to mount the brakes & the sram shifters on so the 1 clamp does all 3 on 1 side the brake & shifter can mount off the 1 mount on the other side.

    This is a super nice setup & makes the bars look real clean & tidy

    The Avid brakes that come with this system are elixir CR 2010 not 2011, elixir X0 & XX & XX world cup they all ha single bolt mount & all the others have 2 bolt.
    OK, so if I go full XO, I will have the ability to use the "matchmaker" mount setup ... at least I think that's what SRAM calls it? Sounds like a good idea!

    Dealer I'm working with feels difference between XX and XO is not as much as XO to X9, so sounds like XO might offer me best bang-for-buck?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    OK, so if I go full XO, I will have the ability to use the "matchmaker" mount setup ... at least I think that's what SRAM calls it? Sounds like a good idea!

    Dealer I'm working with feels difference between XX and XO is not as much as XO to X9, so sounds like XO might offer me best bang-for-buck?
    There are 2 types of matchmakers, The X0 brakes come with the XX type matchmaker & the Standard clamp so you can choose,So you will not need to buy the matchmakers & they will fit 9 & 10 speed shifters form 2007 & up X7 & up.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  14. #14
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    I was debating between the Crests and Arches to go on my Air9 and I eventually went with the 355s on the ZTR hubs and I could not be happier. Saves some weight over the Arches and a bit stronger than the Crests (according to some local racers/riders that I know) I am a bit heavier than you and admittedly not the smoothest rider and the 355s have stayed true even with my poor line choices. So in my opinion the 355s are a good compromise of weight and strength.
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    Crest & Match Maker

    I am in a similar position as kfb66. Presently looking at the Jet-9 and specking out components.

    I weigh in at 160 lbs and am leaning toward the Crest,(comparing to the Arches), to save some weight in the wheels not being overly concerned about a stronger wheel. I am an XC guy that takes an occasional trip to Moab (including Porc Rim) & Fruita. Recently, I read some people are having trouble mounting tires on the Crest wheels. Thoughts?

    And what are you saying about the "Match Maker"? Is this a complete Sram set up for brakes & shifters?

    Also, I am considering DT Swiss hubs rather than the ZTR.

    Thanks for posting kfb66, I have all the same questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by FotoJesse
    I was debating between the Crests and Arches to go on my Air9 and I eventually went with the 355s on the ZTR hubs and I could not be happier. Saves some weight over the Arches and a bit stronger than the Crests (according to some local racers/riders that I know) I am a bit heavier than you and admittedly not the smoothest rider and the 355s have stayed true even with my poor line choices. So in my opinion the 355s are a good compromise of weight and strength.

  16. #16
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    Match Maker

    Avid have made the match maker for there brakes that have a 2 bolt clamp for a long time,you remove the 2 bolts & tha cap that holds the brake lever assembly to the handle bars & bolt the match maker on in place of the old clamp.

    Now you can unbolt the old mount off the shifter & mounting the shifter unit to the match maker so now the brake & shifter only use the 1 mount to hold them both.

    Now they have gone further & made the Poploc remote & the reverb height adjuster remote & they have made there remotes into match makers so if you use them you can bolt the single bolt brake unit & your shifter stright to the remote unit,Or just use the new single bolt match maker that comes with the brake.

    I hope this helps & I have not got you more lost.


    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am in a similar position as kfb66. Presently looking at the Jet-9 and specking out components.

    I weigh in at 160 lbs and am leaning toward the Crest,(comparing to the Arches), to save some weight in the wheels not being overly concerned about a stronger wheel. I am an XC guy that takes an occasional trip to Moab (including Porc Rim) & Fruita. Recently, I read some people are having trouble mounting tires on the Crest wheels. Thoughts?

    And what are you saying about the "Match Maker"? Is this a complete Sram set up for brakes & shifters?

    Also, I am considering DT Swiss hubs rather than the ZTR.

    Thanks for posting kfb66, I have all the same questions!
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    There are 2 types of matchmakers, The X0 brakes come with the XX type matchmaker & the Standard clamp so you can choose,So you will not need to buy the matchmakers & they will fit 9 & 10 speed shifters form 2007 & up X7 & up.
    Good info, do you agree that XO is a smarter buy than X9 or is X9 a good way to save a few bucks and spend elsewhere (wheels, hubs, BB, cranks)???

    This is my first build and first full suspension so I really appreciate the help. Unfortunately I do have a limit budget-wise so trying to make sure I skimp in the right places and spend where it makes sense.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Good info, do you agree that XO is a smarter buy than X9 or is X9 a good way to save a few bucks and spend elsewhere (wheels, hubs, BB, cranks)???

    This is my first build and first full suspension so I really appreciate the help. Unfortunately I do have a limit budget-wise so trying to make sure I skimp in the right places and spend where it makes sense.

    Thanks
    On a budget I would go X0 brakes to get the latest setup that fits with the poploc & this will tidy the bike up.

    I would then do my next big spend on wheels because this is a item that will make or brake a good bike.
    Hope Pro 2 hubs with Stans No tube rims would be a good way to go for a good option for price to run tubelees & that is a must IMO.
    I run Flow rims but for what you are doing Arch would be good & you would only have to spend your money once.


    The X9 stuff works really well so I wouldn't be worried about it,The X0 cranks are carbon but I would only go that way if the money didn't have to come out of the wheel budget.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by FotoJesse
    I was debating between the Crests and Arches to go on my Air9 and I eventually went with the 355s on the ZTR hubs and I could not be happier. Saves some weight over the Arches and a bit stronger than the Crests (according to some local racers/riders that I know) I am a bit heavier than you and admittedly not the smoothest rider and the 355s have stayed true even with my poor line choices. So in my opinion the 355s are a good compromise of weight and strength.
    That sounds great about 355's ... biggest advantage of different hubs would probably be better bearings and maybe stiffness more so than weight advantage, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Good to hear positive feedback on both ZTR wheels and hubs. Still need to do some reading on American Classic and DT Swiss hubs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am in a similar position as kfb66. Presently looking at the Jet-9 and specking out components.

    I weigh in at 160 lbs and am leaning toward the Crest,(comparing to the Arches), to save some weight in the wheels not being overly concerned about a stronger wheel. I am an XC guy that takes an occasional trip to Moab (including Porc Rim) & Fruita. Recently, I read some people are having trouble mounting tires on the Crest wheels. Thoughts?

    And what are you saying about the "Match Maker"? Is this a complete Sram set up for brakes & shifters?

    Also, I am considering DT Swiss hubs rather than the ZTR.

    Thanks for posting kfb66, I have all the same questions!
    trekmike,
    Certainly feel free to jump in with questions, sounds like you and I are in very similar position. The more good questions posted the better answers we'll see. Lots of really helpful people here and they know a lot more than I do so I'm all ears!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    I don't remember where but I had heard that before about the XT cassette. Thanks for the feedback and if you have any other thoughts or advice feel free to pass it along, much appreciated!
    My own anecdotal experience with 9 speed XT 11-34 cassettes has not been good. I have bent the #2 cog on two of them (from sheer pedaling force) and ripped four consecutive teeth from another. XT are actually the only cassettes I have had duarability issues with and I'm a much stronger rider now than I was when I was running the XT cassettes (on 26" wheels no less).

    Went to the LX 580 (pinned together - no aluminum carrier) cassette for the next one and had no problems with them. Then (after switching to 29" wheels) used a Shimano 12-36 HG-61 for 9 months with no issues. Currently riding a SRAM 990 (with an aluminum carrier) for the last six months (and I got it second hand after another rider used it for six months) and haven't had any issues with that one.

    Disclaimer: I am 100lbs heavier than the OP, so he may not have to worry about the strength of the cassette the same way I do. Just the same, based on my own experience, I would not classify the XT cassettes as relatively 'strong' or 'durable'.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am in a similar position as kfb66. Presently looking at the Jet-9 and specking out components.

    I weigh in at 160 lbs and am leaning toward the Crest,(comparing to the Arches), to save some weight in the wheels not being overly concerned about a stronger wheel. I am an XC guy that takes an occasional trip to Moab (including Porc Rim) & Fruita. Recently, I read some people are having trouble mounting tires on the Crest wheels. Thoughts?

    Also, I am considering DT Swiss hubs rather than the ZTR.
    I haven't read about the tire mounting problems on the Crest. Do you have any links? Was it a certain tire(s) causing problems.

    I have not experienced any troubles on my Crests (with DT Swiss hubs) mounting tires. Granted, I've only mounted IKONs, Aspens, and a pair of XC race test tires on them to date.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am in a similar position as kfb66. Presently looking at the Jet-9 and specking out components.

    I weigh in at 160 lbs and am leaning toward the Crest,(comparing to the Arches), to save some weight in the wheels not being overly concerned about a stronger wheel. I am an XC guy that takes an occasional trip to Moab (including Porc Rim) & Fruita. Recently, I read some people are having trouble mounting tires on the Crest wheels. Thoughts?

    And what are you saying about the "Match Maker"? Is this a complete Sram set up for brakes & shifters?

    Also, I am considering DT Swiss hubs rather than the ZTR.

    Thanks for posting kfb66, I have all the same questions!
    As far as weight and durability goes, if you have the coin, you will not be dissappointed with the DT Swiss 240S hubs. They are light, strong, and I've not once been able to put the hurt on them with my 240 pounds and severe climbing. The maintenance on the star ratchet is a real time saver, just ask JeffJ after I walked him through servicing his. Just use a high quality synthetic grease, with a thin layer on the faces of the star ratchets and a fair amount in the "rifling" bores of the carrier and the drive end of the hub after cleaning everything out prior to reapplication.

  24. #24
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    Crest are SUPER EASY to mount tires on. Seriously, floor pump on Ravens, Crossmarks, Ignitors, and Racing Ralphs. I also have DT240 hubs and the ZTRs. I love my 240s but I would not pay twice the amount of ZTRs to get them again. One thing I will say about the 240s are they offer a few more end cap designs than the ZTRs. ZTRs only have a QR and 15mm end cap for the front end, while 240s have a QR, 9mm,15mm, 20mm front and the rear has a QR, 10mm and the new format for Specialized.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar
    Crest are SUPER EASY to mount tires on. Seriously, floor pump on Ravens, Crossmarks, Ignitors, and Racing Ralphs. I also have DT240 hubs and the ZTRs. I love my 240s but I would not pay twice the amount of ZTRs to get them again. One thing I will say about the 240s are they offer a few more end cap designs than the ZTRs. ZTRs only have a QR and 15mm end cap for the front end, while 240s have a QR, 9mm,15mm, 20mm front and the rear has a QR, 10mm and the new format for Specialized.
    How do you like the Raven tires? Thinking of going that route as I do very little "wet" riding so don't think I need big lugs, more of a fast-rolling tire for most of my trails. I've got Specialized Armadillo tires on my hardtail ... hate the added weight and stiffness of tires, but they sure are bullet proof!

    For my budget I'm probably looking at Hope Pro II, American Classic, or ZTR hubs. Based on feedback I also plan to go with 15-20mm thru axle up front, not sure on back? Any thoughts?

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    Mounting Crests

    There are a few other forums where others complain about mounting tires on the Crest. My guess is, it may have been the particular tire they were using. One forum post complained at length and Stan's asked him to call the his office.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I haven't read about the tire mounting problems on the Crest. Do you have any links? Was it a certain tire(s) causing problems.

    I have not experienced any troubles on my Crests (with DT Swiss hubs) mounting tires. Granted, I've only mounted IKONs, Aspens, and a pair of XC race test tires on them to date.

    BB

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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    There are a few other forums where others complain about mounting tires on the Crest. My guess is, it may have been the particular tire they were using. One forum post complained at length and Stan's asked him to call the his office.
    I haven't heard anything negative about ZTR 355 or Arch wheels, seems like the perfect mix of weight and durability for Midwest riding?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    There are a few other forums where others complain about mounting tires on the Crest. My guess is, it may have been the particular tire they were using. One forum post complained at length and Stan's asked him to call the his office.
    Just a week ago i built up my new bike with Crests. They were a freaking PAIN to mount tires on. Me and my dad just about crapped ourselves trying to get Racing Ralph 2.25s on. Dont think i could have done it alone.

    Now granted these are the first tubeless tires we have ever mounted but he worked in a bike shop years ago and used to brag about how fast he could change out a tube. But i guess he is gettin old

    Anyways, hard for us...

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    Kfb, hope you have a speedy recovery and are ready to go by Spring.

    I was ready to go with a 1 x 10 (should be fine for Wisco riding, right?) X9 setup but then a friend decided to convert his geared/tubed SIR to SS/tubeless, so I am going to use his hand-me-down XTR/Chris King package for my build.

    Fork was the only other major component I had to buy. And since I wanted a tapered fork, there were very few options. Like you, I didn't think I needed a hydro lockout, but the XX and the RLT Ti were the lowest cost options, so I went with the XX.

    I had shopped wheelsets and was going to go with a custom wheelset from Mike at lacemine29.com. You should fill out his form and get a quote on a custom build if you haven't done so. He also has what looks like a nice sent of Bontragers w/ DT Swiss hubs on his specials page right now.

    I know it is almost heretical for this forum, but I decided to go against the tubeless, at least for now. They seem kind of high maintenance. I have a pair of Geax Saguros on order right now. They have some good reviews and I am hoping they perform well on clay soils. They also claim you can run them at a relatively low pressure. I may swap out the front for a Nevagal or a Panaracer Rampage for riding in Spring slop.

    Have you looked at the Niner build kit?

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    Quote Originally Posted by loginhater
    Kfb, hope you have a speedy recovery and are ready to go by Spring.

    I was ready to go with a 1 x 10 (should be fine for Wisco riding, right?) X9 setup but then a friend decided to convert his geared/tubed SIR to SS/tubeless, so I am going to use his hand-me-down XTR/Chris King package for my build.

    Fork was the only other major component I had to buy. And since I wanted a tapered fork, there were very few options. Like you, I didn't think I needed a hydro lockout, but the XX and the RLT Ti were the lowest cost options, so I went with the XX.

    I had shopped wheelsets and was going to go with a custom wheelset from Mike at lacemine29.com. You should fill out his form and get a quote on a custom build if you haven't done so. He also has what looks like a nice sent of Bontragers w/ DT Swiss hubs on his specials page right now.

    I know it is almost heretical for this forum, but I decided to go against the tubeless, at least for now. They seem kind of high maintenance. I have a pair of Geax Saguros on order right now. They have some good reviews and I am hoping they perform well on clay soils. They also claim you can run them at a relatively low pressure. I may swap out the front for a Nevagal or a Panaracer Rampage for riding in Spring slop.

    Have you looked at the Niner build kit?
    I think 1x10 would be great for most of WI ... or the Midwest in general. SS will also be a lot of fun for you, and should make you a better rider relating to maintaining momentum, etc. I have a full rigid SS that I like to use for training rides, but NO way I could ever use it for races, much more work to climb or maintain speed on flats, and it really beats you up on the rough stuff being full rigid! What gearing do you plan to use? I think I am at 32x18 right now.

    I've read enough positive feedback relating to the XX Reba that I definitely plan to go that route. Doubt I'll use the remote poploc much, if at all, but who knows maybe I'll learn to use it to an advantage?

    Interesting thoughts on tubeless, honestly everyone I know that has made the change seems to love it. That said, if I did find it high maintenance, I would switch back to tubes in a heart beat. I would ALWAYS choose a small amount additional weight compared with high maintenance issues.

    I've have looked over the JET build kit at Niner site, but I think the dealer I'm working with is doing a good job of setting me up right, and at a reasonable price. I hope to be stopping at the shop later this month to confirm frame size and mix of components. I'm 5'9" and that puts me at high end of small frame, and low end of medium frame ... hopefully a short ride and/or even sitting on a bike, along with some measurements will help me decide?

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    How do you like the Raven tires? Thinking of going that route as I do very little "wet" riding so don't think I need big lugs, more of a fast-rolling tire for most of my trails. I've got Specialized Armadillo tires on my hardtail ... hate the added weight and stiffness of tires, but they sure are bullet proof!

    For my budget I'm probably looking at Hope Pro II, American Classic, or ZTR hubs. Based on feedback I also plan to go with 15-20mm thru axle up front, not sure on back? Any thoughts?
    The Ravens don't look like much but they grip well for what they are and they roll fast. However, if you do a lot of loose pack then they do not do well in those conditions. I use a RR front and a Raven rear, but if it was all loose, I'd go for a rear RR since they are the same weight.

    As for hubs, the Hopes are too loud for my taste, I prefer the ZTRs.
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  32. #32
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    I would think you could get a pretty good "kit" price complete, on a Jet, fully built from Niner, as they have better economies of scale and buying power than a bike shop. You should price it out both ways. I thought Niner was running a special on these right now, until they sell out? Wouldn't hurt to ask.

    Plus, it's already built, no additional labor charges by the bike shop to assemble.

  33. #33
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    I believe that although the Crests are lighter than the 355, they are as strong or stronger. Give r2technik a call. Good prices and helpful info.

    Mounting tires on the Crest was easy. No tools to mount. I used a compressor to seat non-tubeless Crossmarks. I don't think using a floor pump would have been to difficult but I am just out of broken back surgery and did not even try.

    I am also interested in Matchmakers for Elixir CR 2011 but don't know enough about them yet.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    I believe that although the Crests are lighter than the 355, they are as strong or stronger. Give r2technik a call. Good prices and helpful info.

    Mounting tires on the Crest was easy. No tools to mount. I used a compressor to seat non-tubeless Crossmarks. I don't think using a floor pump would have been to difficult but I am just out of broken back surgery and did not even try.

    I am also interested in Matchmakers for Elixir CR 2011 but don't know enough about them yet.
    Take care when choosing I am sure the 2011 CR was dow graded & went back to a 2 bolt matcher were as the 2010 CR was 1 bolt & has now been replace with the X0 that is 1 bolt.

    It is the 1 bolt system that fits with the poploc & reverb seat post remote.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar
    The Ravens don't look like much but they grip well for what they are and they roll fast. However, if you do a lot of loose pack then they do not do well in those conditions. I use a RR front and a Raven rear, but if it was all loose, I'd go for a rear RR since they are the same weight.

    As for hubs, the Hopes are too loud for my taste, I prefer the ZTRs.
    Most of my riding is harder pack trails, but there are some loose pack sections so may have to put a bit more thought into tires?

    I have heard many say that about Hope hubs and I do prefer a quieter hub. No need to ruin a beautiful day in the wilderness with an excessively loud hub ratcheting away!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Most of my riding is harder pack trails, but there are some loose pack sections so may have to put a bit more thought into tires?

    I have heard many say that about Hope hubs and I do prefer a quieter hub. No need to ruin a beautiful day in the wilderness with an excessively loud hub ratcheting away!
    Thats when you need to look down & read the top tube !!! Pedal Damn it

    The thing is I like the rear hub being loud,I have not found a nicer way to let people know I'm here & I'm coming through, Never sean so many people head for the trees to get out of my way.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    I believe that although the Crests are lighter than the 355, they are as strong or stronger. Give r2technik a call. Good prices and helpful info.

    Mounting tires on the Crest was easy. No tools to mount. I used a compressor to seat non-tubeless Crossmarks. I don't think using a floor pump would have been to difficult but I am just out of broken back surgery and did not even try.

    I am also interested in Matchmakers for Elixir CR 2011 but don't know enough about them yet.

    I'll look into this some more, but I'd be surprised if Crests are lighter "AND" stronger, unless they use some exotic material, then must be pricey?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    Thats when you need to look down & read the top tube !!! Pedal Damn it

    The thing is I like the hear hub being loud,I have not found a nicer way to let people know I'm here & I'm coming through, Never sean so many people head for the trees to get out of my way.
    Well said!

  39. #39
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    Jet-9 kit price from Niner

    I saw this on their website after someone here pointed it out. My LBS has one Jet-9 with this build coming in at $3099. This is a nice price for sure, however, there are components that most readers here would want upgraded.

    Basically it is an X-7 build (except the Sram crank-- not sure what level but it isn't X-7), RebaRLT T 100mm, Easton 70 stem, Raceface Ride handlebar, Raceface seatpost, WTB Rocket V saddle, Stan's Crest with ZTR hubs, Elixir 5 brakes, WTB Wolverine 2.2 tires, & FSA headset. All weighing in at 28lbs without pedals.

    Not too bad if price is paramount. But it seems counterintuitive buying a higher end bike with a deficit on some components. On the other hand, Specialized SJ Expert 29 comes with the XO build for only slightly more money with the only other upgrade one might change is the DT Swiss wheels for either Crest or Arches.

    For now, I am collecting information on a different build on the Jet-9 yet keeping it under $4k. I am thinking X-9 (2X10) at a minimum, but not sure what to do about the cranks, BB, cassette, brakes headset & hubs. I'm liking the Crest wheels for weight (I weigh only 160) but would like a different set of hubs that will do 15mm axel on the front and 10mm on the rear (DT Swiss seems pricey & I hear Hope Pro-II are too noisy--I like quiet when I am in the woods!).

    So.... how would you guys speck this Jet -9 for durability, performance, weight with some measure of cost control?

    Your thoughts are much appreciated!

    mke
    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy
    I would think you could get a pretty good "kit" price complete, on a Jet, fully built from Niner, as they have better economies of scale and buying power than a bike shop. You should price it out both ways. I thought Niner was running a special on these right now, until they sell out? Wouldn't hurt to ask.

    Plus, it's already built, no additional labor charges by the bike shop to assemble.
    Last edited by trekmike; 01-10-2011 at 11:32 AM.

  40. #40
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    Spend on Wheels,The X9 2x10 is nice stuff,I like riding it as much as my XX there is a weight difference but it works as nice.

    Use the XT cassette I like it more than the lower end Sram ones..

    Put some new Niner carbon flat bars on it but keep the things like stem & outher things you may change cheap.

    This is how I built my wifes bike.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=675217

    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I saw this on their website after someone here pointed it out. My LBS has one Jet-9 with this build coming in at $3099. This is a nice price for sure, however, there are components that most readers here would want upgraded.

    Basically it is an X-7 build (except the Sram crank-- not sure what level but it isn't X-7), RebaRLT T, Easton 70 stem, Raceface Ride handlebar, Raceface seatpost, WTB Rocket V saddle, Stan's Crest with ZTR hubs, Elixir 5 brakes, WTB Wolverine 2.2 tires, & FSA headset. All weighing in at 28lbs without pedals.

    Not too bad if price is paramount. But it seems counterintuitive buying a higher end bike with a deficit on some components. On the other hand, Specialized SJ Expert 29 comes with the XO build for only slightly more money with the only other upgrade one might change is the DT Swiss wheels for either Crest or Arches.

    For now, I am collecting information on a different build on the Jet-9 yet keeping it under $4k. I am thinking X-9 at a minimum, but not sure what to do about the cranks, BB, cassette, brakes headset & hubs. I'm liking the Crest wheels for weight (I weigh only 160) but would like a different set of hubs that will do 15mm axel on the front and 10mm on the rear (DT Swiss seems pricey & I hear Hope Pro-II are too noisy--I like quiet when I am in the woods!).

    So.... how would you guys speck this Jet -9 for durability, performance, weight with some measure of cost control?

    Your thoughts are much appreciated!

    mke
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  41. #41
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    I assume weight difference between X9 and XX (or even XO) is still a matter of grams vs pounds, so potentially not that noticeable? If performance difference is not that noticeable it sure sounds like X9 is way to go?

    Are Flow tires for extra durability versus 355 or Arch (or Crest). I want to be as light as possible with wheels/hubs, but not to the point that I have durability issues, especially during 24 hr races? I hear Hope hubs pretty noisy ... any thoughts on that as I know you are a fan of Hope?

    I have a hard time determining how many grams will really be noticeable when it's all said and done. That said I do realize rotating weight is most noticeable relating to acceleration and performance.

    By the way, I'm seriously thinking 1x10 will be ideal for me, but what rings are you using on 2x10? On my current 3x9 bike I use 32 ring with 20 cog for a huge chunk of my riding and rarely leave middle ring up front. Thing I worry about with 2x10 is front rings are typically higher or lower than 32t which seems to be my sweet spot?

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    Spend on Wheels,The X9 2x10 is nice stuff,I like riding it as much as my XX there is a weight difference but it works as nice.

    Use the XT cassette I like it more than the lower end Sram ones..

    Put some new Niner carbon flat bars on it but keep the things like stem & outher things you may change cheap.

    This is how I built my wifes bike.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=675217

  42. #42
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    I am a practical weight weenie,I go for as much carbon & Ti as I can as long as it's strong.

    I run flows because they have more control over the tyre with low pressures than what a narrower rim does so it is funtion over weight for me,Grip is worth more speed to me than 100 to 200 grams.

    I like hope hubs they are cheap for what they are & I would not own a set of wheels I couldn't change axle sizes.

    I do have 2 sets of I9 wheels on order.

    X9 is good,I would consider the X0 cranks because they are carbon & not alloy like the X9 but I would not take that money out of the wheel budget to do it.

    I like the 2x10 alot & was 1 that thought it was stupid when I 1st saw it.

    What were you riding ? because the Niners have lifted my riding so far that building a bike to what you are used to just won't be right.

    I couldn't run a 1x 9 well I could but it would make me slower !!!

    The point to building a Nice bike is to make it fast !!! people thing it is to duild it light.

    To finish 1st,1st you must finish.

    How would you build your bike if you were a 20% better rider ??

    That is how you should build your bike,Because that is were your new bike will take you if you build it right.

    The 39 ring on the 2x10 cranks isn't that large to push when you have a 36 rear cog to go into.
    Last edited by muzzanic; 01-10-2011 at 12:57 PM.
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  43. #43
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    I'm coming off of a Stumpy hard tail (M4 aluminum). Set up with 3x9 full XT and Avid BB-7 brakes. Heavy for a h/t at nearly 30 lbs so any JET will be a nice upgrade. I would say I spend nearly 80-85% of my time in middle ring up front(32t), and middle cog in back (20t). I don't do much higher speed riding, more slower technical stuff so I find I can make this work for much of my climbing, spinning, and technical sections. I would say I mostly I use 5-6 gears in rear (15, 17, 20, 21, 23), but like I said, really sit in the 32 up front.

    No durability issue with carbon cranks?

    Interesting on flows, maybe worth extra weight although I do very little "wet" riding so not sure I'd notice extra traction?

    Good point on possible riding much faster with Niner f/s versus current h/t, hadn't really thought that way. Do you spend most time in 39 up front, what is smaller ring you use for climbing or real technical sections? I was thinking of going 1x10 first, but using 2x crank so if I wanted to change later just need to add front der and shifter?

    Thanks for your input!


    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    I am a practical weight weenie,I go for as much carbon & Ti as I can as long as it's strong.

    I run flows because they have more control over the tyre with low pressures than what a narrower rim does so it is funtion over weight for me,Grip is worth more speed to me than 100 to 200 grams.

    I like hope hubs they are cheap for what they are & I would not own a set of wheels I couldn't change axle sizes.

    I do have 2 sets of I9 wheels on order.

    X9 is good,I would consider the X0 cranks because they are carbon & not alloy like the X9 but I would not take that money out of the wheel budget to do it.

    I like the 2x10 alot & was 1 that thought it was stupid when I 1st saw it.

    What were you riding ? because the Niners have lifted my riding so far that building a bike to what you are used to just won't be right.

    I couldn't run a 1x 9 well I could but it would make me slower !!!

    The point to building a Nice bike is to make it fast !!! people thing it is to duild it light.

    To finish 1st,1st you must finish.

    How would you build your bike if you were a 20% better rider ??

    That is how you should build your bike,Because that is were your new bike will take you if you build it right.

    The 39 ring on the 2x10 cranks isn't that large to push when you have a 36 rear cog to go into.

  44. #44
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    Yes there is little point to building a new bike the same as the 1 you are moving away from.

    I think you need to decide if your going 1x10 or 2x10 befor you start because if you buy the 26/39 crank the 26 will be to low to go 1x10 & the 39 will be to high.

    It is a shame that there isn't any good 2x10 26/39 29er bikes you could ride.

    I'm sure you would like the Jet9 with 2x10



    [QUOTE=kfb66]I'm coming off of a Stumpy hard tail (M4 aluminum). Set up with 3x9 full XT and Avid BB-7 brakes. Heavy for a h/t at nearly 30 lbs so any JET will be a nice upgrade. I would say I spend nearly 80-85% of my time in middle ring up front(32t), and middle cog in back (20t). I don't do much higher speed riding, more slower technical stuff so I find I can make this work for much of my climbing, spinning, and technical sections. I would say I mostly I use 5-6 gears in rear (15, 17, 20, 21, 23), but like I said, really sit in the 32 up front.

    No durability issue with carbon cranks?

    Interesting on flows, maybe worth extra weight although I do very little "wet" riding so not sure I'd notice extra traction?
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  45. #45
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    Right now I am leaning toward 1x10 and if I went that route I would probably go with something between 32-34 front ring, w/ 11-36 cassette. Going with 2x crank would simply allow for an easier change at a later date if I did decide I prefer 2x10. I'd also like the ability to install a bash-guard as there are plenty of obstacles to go over on my trails. I have ridden a very nice 29er hardtail w/ 2x10, but I don't know what front rings it had?

    I will check on my own, but what are the typical SRAM 2x recommended set-ups you see most? Of course "recommended" would largely be geared by terrain and riding style, etc, so maybe a bad question?




    [QUOTE=muzzanic]Yes there is little point to building a new bike the same as the 1 you are moving away from.

    I think you need to decide if your going 1x10 or 2x10 befor you start because if you buy the 26/39 crank the 26 will be to low to go 1x10 & the 39 will be to high.

    It is a shame that there isn't any good 2x10 26/39 29er bikes you could ride.

    I'm sure you would like the Jet9 with 2x10



    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    I'm coming off of a Stumpy hard tail (M4 aluminum). Set up with 3x9 full XT and Avid BB-7 brakes. Heavy for a h/t at nearly 30 lbs so any JET will be a nice upgrade. I would say I spend nearly 80-85% of my time in middle ring up front(32t), and middle cog in back (20t). I don't do much higher speed riding, more slower technical stuff so I find I can make this work for much of my climbing, spinning, and technical sections. I would say I mostly I use 5-6 gears in rear (15, 17, 20, 21, 23), but like I said, really sit in the 32 up front.

    No durability issue with carbon cranks?

    Interesting on flows, maybe worth extra weight although I do very little "wet" riding so not sure I'd notice extra traction?

  46. #46
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    If you are wanting to change ring sizes & or wanting to put on a bash ring the 2x10 crank set is a no go,that Is why I said now would be a good time to decide.

    If you are thinking you need a bash ring then & wouldn't be looking at carbon cranks either,better to stick to Alloy.

    If you are undecided on 1x10 or 2x10 I would be fitting a crank that had good resale like XT & just run the standard 32 ring untill you work out what works best for you.

    ( Just me I guess but if I was riding were I needed a bash ring I would use the Rip9 )



    [QUOTE=kfb66]Right now I am leaning toward 1x10 and if I went that route I would probably go with something between 32-34 front ring, w/ 11-36 cassette. Going with 2x crank would simply allow for an easier change at a later date if I did decide I prefer 2x10. I'd also like the ability to install a bash-guard as there are plenty of obstacles to go over on my trails. I have ridden a very nice 29er hardtail w/ 2x10, but I don't know what front rings it had?

    I will check on my own, but what are the typical SRAM 2x recommended set-ups you see most? Of course "recommended" would largely be geared by terrain and riding style, etc, so maybe a bad question?
    I have a 6 Berth & 2 Berth Motorhomes that I rent out . They are based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    If you are wanting to change ring sizes & or wanting to put on a bash ring the 2x10 crank set is a no go,that Is why I said now would be a good time to decide.

    If you are thinking you need a bash ring then & wouldn't be looking at carbon cranks either,better to stick to Alloy.

    If you are undecided on 1x10 or 2x10 I would be fitting a crank that had good resale like XT & just run the standard 32 ring untill you work out what works best for you.

    ( Just me I guess but if I was riding were I needed a bash ring I would use the Rip9 )
    This critter comes in a few flavors - 28, 30, 32, or 34 and would be sweet on a RIP or a JET: http://www.widgit.com.au/

    Here it is on a RIP: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=567930

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    I'll look into this some more, but I'd be surprised if Crests are lighter "AND" stronger, unless they use some exotic material, then must be pricey?
    Actually, the Crest is basically a re-designed 355 rim. If you look at the 355 the sidewall of the rim is high enough to be used as a braking surface for v-brakes. The change with the Crest is that they shortened the height of the sidewall (no longer v-brake compatible) and made the bead hook smaller.

    If you aren't in a hurry, I heard that there is supposed to be a new version of the Arch available sometime this summer, which has the same modifications that were done between the 355 and the Crest. If/when it is available, this seems like it would be the perfect blend of beefiness and light-weight for most people.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurnerConvert
    Actually, the Crest is basically a re-designed 355 rim. If you look at the 355 the sidewall of the rim is high enough to be used as a braking surface for v-brakes. The change with the Crest is that they shortened the height of the sidewall (no longer v-brake compatible) and made the bead hook smaller.

    If you aren't in a hurry, I heard that there is supposed to be a new version of the Arch available sometime this summer, which has the same modifications that were done between the 355 and the Crest. If/when it is available, this seems like it would be the perfect blend of beefiness and light-weight for most people.
    Actually I'm not in a hurry, really don't need bike completed until late winter/early spring, so plenty of time. Arch seems like good fit for all around trails.

    Great info, thanks!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    If you are wanting to change ring sizes & or wanting to put on a bash ring the 2x10 crank set is a no go,that Is why I said now would be a good time to decide.

    If you are thinking you need a bash ring then & wouldn't be looking at carbon cranks either,better to stick to Alloy.

    If you are undecided on 1x10 or 2x10 I would be fitting a crank that had good resale like XT & just run the standard 32 ring untill you work out what works best for you.

    ( Just me I guess but if I was riding were I needed a bash ring I would use the Rip9 )
    Bash ring is certainly not "required" for my riding, just thought if there was room for one would make sense for log obstacles, etc. That said I am a bit hesitant with carbon cranks (or carbon frames) ... just doesn't seem like the weight savings is enough to offset potential durability issues and cost? Was just thinking bash-ring would replace unneeded front ring if I went that route.

    I originally planned for 2x10 when switching to 29er but the more research I did on gearing I found that a 1x10 really covers almost everything I need. For example, the majority of my riding is done using 32x20 on my current 26" h/t which equals 41.6 gear inches or a 1.6 gear ratio. My thought was to set up a 1x10 that puts the middle rear cogs near that ratio, that way I have 4-5 gears up or down for climbing hills or spinning flats as needed.

    So using 11-36 cassette:

    32 ring puts middle cogs (19 & 21) at 44 gear inch (1.52 ratio) and 48.7 gear inch (1.68ratio)

    33 ring puts middle cogs at 45.5 (1.57 gr) and 50.1 (1.73 gr)

    34 ring puts middle cogs at 46.6 (1.61 gr) and 51.6 (1.78)

    Now if I stayed with a 32 ring up front that still leaves me with a granny gear of 25.5 gear inches (32x36), and tallest gear of 84.1 inches (32x11). Based off my experience with 3x9, it's extremely rare that I would ever get below 25.0 inch gearing on granny side, and on fast side I rarely get above 80 gear inches so net effect of switching to 1x10 only costs me the gear range of top two gears on big ring (44) and bottom few gears on small ring (22), which I rarely if ever use. I also assume 1x10 would provide smoother shifting, plus a weight and money savings by eliminating left shifter and front der?

    With something like a 26/39 2x10 I'm guessing I would have a small ring that I rarely use, and a big ring that is bigger than I prefer for the majority of my riding (causing cross-chaining)? Only real advantage I would gain is much lower granny gear and a higher tall gear (both of which are really unneeded for the single track in my area)?

    Any other Midwestern riders (or other areas) that have switched to 1x10 and find it ideal?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66

    Any other Midwestern riders (or other areas) that have switched to 1x10 and find it ideal?
    I live in central TX and have been happily racing my relatively new Jet setup as a 1x9 with a 32 front and 11-34 cassette (moved from a Mamasita setup 1x9 as well). I've found this covers just about all the gears I need. The largest climbs here are techie 400-500 footers so I can't speak for the mountain folks but I love the 1x concept, simplicity, and excellent shifting it offers. This weekend I did an 80 mile marathon race that had some long pavements sections where our group was in the 25-30mph range for extended periods of time. That was the only time I'd ever missed a bigger gear as I was having to spin pretty fast, but it is not typical for most races. The low side of the gear spectrum is fine and a 1x10 would be even better with that 36t rear. I'd probably consider a 34 front if I had a 36 rear cog. For now, I'll just have to wait to get a bit stronger.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1072
    I live in central TX and have been happily racing my relatively new Jet setup as a 1x9 with a 32 front and 11-34 cassette (moved from a Mamasita setup 1x9 as well). I've found this covers just about all the gears I need. The largest climbs here are techie 400-500 footers so I can't speak for the mountain folks but I love the 1x concept, simplicity, and excellent shifting it offers. This weekend I did an 80 mile marathon race that had some long pavements sections where our group was in the 25-30mph range for extended periods of time. That was the only time I'd ever missed a bigger gear as I was having to spin pretty fast, but it is not typical for most races. The low side of the gear spectrum is fine and a 1x10 would be even better with that 36t rear. I'd probably consider a 34 front if I had a 36 rear cog. For now, I'll just have to wait to get a bit stronger.
    Great to hear ... and I've heard many others give similar feedback relating to switch to 1x10. I suspect I will have the same feeling toward 1x10 set up, and speaking of "mountain riding" I spent a weekend riding out in Winter Park, CO this past fall and even out there I was able to stay in my middle ring up front the entire time (w/ 11-34 cassette). Might make for some more challenging climbs at times, but like you said, with 11-36 cassette should be plenty of granny gear. In the end as we progress our conditioning I think 1x10 would be better and better fit, and also make us a better rider with less shifting to worry about.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1072
    I live in central TX and have been happily racing my relatively new Jet setup as a 1x9 with a 32 front and 11-34 cassette (moved from a Mamasita setup 1x9 as well). I've found this covers just about all the gears I need. The largest climbs here are techie 400-500 footers so I can't speak for the mountain folks but I love the 1x concept, simplicity, and excellent shifting it offers. This weekend I did an 80 mile marathon race that had some long pavements sections where our group was in the 25-30mph range for extended periods of time. That was the only time I'd ever missed a bigger gear as I was having to spin pretty fast, but it is not typical for most races. The low side of the gear spectrum is fine and a 1x10 would be even better with that 36t rear. I'd probably consider a 34 front if I had a 36 rear cog. For now, I'll just have to wait to get a bit stronger.
    Quick question for you (or anyone else to answer), have you played around with different front rings since switching to 1x9? Might be a dumb question, but how much work is it to switch between different front rings( for example 30, 32, and 34)? I assume no change necessary relating to rear der, and only need to change chain length if ring size dramatic change?

    Thanks for any input!

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Quick question for you (or anyone else to answer), have you played around with different front rings since switching to 1x9? Might be a dumb question, but how much work is it to switch between different front rings( for example 30, 32, and 34)? I assume no change necessary relating to rear der, and only need to change chain length if ring size dramatic change?

    Thanks for any input!

    When I was racing on my hardtail, I originally ran a 36t front with an 11/32 cassette (that's what the bike came with). That was ok for shorter intense efforts, but didn't give me any bail out gears in a pinch and I suffered in a few races because of that gear. I think in most cases if you're running a 32f, you'll likely be able to switch between a 30t front and 34t front without altering the chain length so long as you leave enough slack (or tension) in the 32 tooth. I'm assuming you'll be using a mid-cage or long cage derailleur. With my mid-cage rear der, I can still remove or add a chain link and allow for chain growth. I usually leave just enough slack so that if I need to remove a link in an emergency, I still have all my gears available. I'm not sure if a short cage would as easily accommodate the same change in required chain length (but it might).

    In the 32f-11r combo, I can spin very comfortably at 23mph, and hit 30mph for short spurts if required (rarely will you see that speed in a race unless you're coasting downhill). In the 32f-34r combo, I can climb just about anything out here in TX and still save a little juice for the top unless I'm spent. The main reason I'd want to switch to a 34 front would be to use larger rear cogs to prolong the life of my cassettes ever so slightly. I'll probably make the switch at the end of the Fall season. If I get stronger AND go 1x10 with a 36t rear, I might see my 36 cog again. Baby steps...

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    how much work is it to switch between different front rings( for example 30, 32, and 34)?

    Thanks for any input!

    To answer that aspect of your question.... It's about a 5 minute job if you are using the outside chainring mounting position; you just have to be careful not to cut your hand on the chain rings. I think there is a special tool to make it easier, but I don't have it. You should just need a big flathead and an allen head (maybe 5mm?). On the other hand, if you run a bash guard (like me), you will be running the chain ring inside the spider arms and changing it out requires removing the crankset first (takes two additional tools for Shimano cranksets). That makes it more of a 10-15 min job for most folks.

  56. #56
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    PS - For the Jet, I recommend combining the bash guard with the N-Gear Jumpstop ($8). Once you get it setup right, you'll pretty much never drop a chain. The Jumpstop manages to just barely fit perfectly on my size large Jet's seat tube with no "mods." The widget also looks to be a great option, but I've not tried it.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd1072
    When I was racing on my hardtail, I originally ran a 36t front with an 11/32 cassette (that's what the bike came with). That was ok for shorter intense efforts, but didn't give me any bail out gears in a pinch and I suffered in a few races because of that gear. I think in most cases if you're running a 32f, you'll likely be able to switch between a 30t front and 34t front without altering the chain length so long as you leave enough slack (or tension) in the 32 tooth. I'm assuming you'll be using a mid-cage or long cage derailleur. With my mid-cage rear der, I can still remove or add a chain link and allow for chain growth. I usually leave just enough slack so that if I need to remove a link in an emergency, I still have all my gears available. I'm not sure if a short cage would as easily accommodate the same change in required chain length (but it might).

    In the 32f-11r combo, I can spin very comfortably at 23mph, and hit 30mph for short spurts if required (rarely will you see that speed in a race unless you're coasting downhill). In the 32f-34r combo, I can climb just about anything out here in TX and still save a little juice for the top unless I'm spent. The main reason I'd want to switch to a 34 front would be to use larger rear cogs to prolong the life of my cassettes ever so slightly. I'll probably make the switch at the end of the Fall season. If I get stronger AND go 1x10 with a 36t rear, I might see my 36 cog again. Baby steps...
    Impressive ... 30mph with 32/11 must be a very fast spin. I would likely stay 32-34 ring up front. Climbing-wise I have no doubt I'll be good to go with 11-36 in back.

    Thanks for quick reply. Not familiar with Jumpstop or Widget, heard of both but never used either? If I go with SS crank don't think I will have option of bash guard, but I will look into those options?
    Last edited by kfb66; 01-12-2011 at 08:04 PM.

  58. #58
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    Hubs on the Jet-9

    Any experience or recommendations on hubs for the Jet-9? I am pricing things out and leaning toward the Hope Pro II, but I am not thrilled with the idea of all the noise! I know it doesn't bother some, its just that I really like quiet when I am out there! I've got enough noise in my world! Looking for 15 mm front; and 10 mm rear.

    I like the DT Swiss but they are expensive. What about the Sram X-9 hubs on reliability, price, noise & weight? Or any others like perhaps the American Classic? I am avoiding the ZTR and planning on using Crest wheels.

    Recommendations from experience?
    Last edited by trekmike; 01-12-2011 at 02:30 PM.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am avoiding the ZTR and planning on using Crest wheels.
    Why are you avoiding ZTR hubs?

  60. #60
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    Talking about ZTR

    Not that they are particularly bad-- I am not trashing them at all. Listening to some others I am hoping to get a little better hub than the ZTR offers. When it comes down to price, I may have to go with the ZTR anyway! I don't know yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by bushido5
    Why are you avoiding ZTR hubs?

  61. #61
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    The X9 hubs are a bit too new for much of any reviews out there yet. I have been looking at the new SLX (665) and M629 hubs. They apparently use the same, new, micro-ratchet free-hub body and are 32 POE hubs. For me that is amazing coming for a 12 point hub that I am currently working with. AND the M629 are dirt cheap right now! Again they are newer so not many reviews out there but people seem happy with them and they are geared for 29ers and should take the extra bombardment.

  62. #62
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    Reba XX & 15 mm T/A

    I am getting different information from different sources. I hear the Reba XX is not set up to use the 15 mm T/A and that to do this one has to use the Fox forks.

    Yet Muzzanic is using a 20 mm Maxle.

    Is there a definitive answer on this?

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    I am getting different information from different sources. I hear the Reba XX is not set up to use the 15 mm T/A and that to do this one has to use the Fox forks.

    Yet Muzzanic is using a 20 mm Maxle.

    Is there a definitive answer on this?
    That would be correct. Reba XX if you like 20mm Maxie Lite or 9mm. Fox if you want 15mm TA or 9mm QR. Marzocchi if you want 15mm TA.

    Not sure that is a definitive answer.

    BB

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    That would be correct. Reba XX if you like 20mm Maxie Lite or 9mm. Fox if you want 15mm TA or 9mm QR. Marzocchi if you want 15mm TA.

    Not sure that is a definitive answer.

    BB
    That's right.

    Rock shox are going to do a 15mm T/A ( I'm Told ) but I haven't seen any yet.
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  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    That's right.

    Rock shox are going to do a 15mm T/A ( I'm Told ) but I haven't seen any yet.
    Great question trekmike and glad you asked! I was planning to go with 15mm t/a but I also intend to use XX Reba so obviously that won't work? I still wish there was a fork equal to XX Reba but without remote locout?

    So muzzanic, asuming I stay with Reba I guess that leaves me with 20mm as only option if I want t/a at front axle ... what do you or anyone else feel is best option there, as I'm mainly trying to set up for XC use, no serious downhill, etc. Seems like 20mm might be overkill, but maybe I'm underestimating the benefits gained by t/a?

    Mainly because of seeing quite a bit of negative feedback relating to ZTR hubs I'm leaning towards either Hope, American Classic, or DT Swiss hubs. With 20mm being the only option any new thoughts?

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Great question trekmike and glad you asked! I was planning to go with 15mm t/a but I also intend to use XX Reba so obviously that won't work? I still wish there was a fork equal to XX Reba but without remote locout?

    So muzzanic, asuming I stay with Reba I guess that leaves me with 20mm as only option if I want t/a at front axle ... what do you or anyone else feel is best option there, as I'm mainly trying to set up for XC use, no serious downhill, etc. Seems like 20mm might be overkill, but maybe I'm underestimating the benefits gained by t/a?

    Mainly because of seeing quite a bit of negative feedback relating to ZTR hubs I'm leaning towards either Hope, American Classic, or DT Swiss hubs. With 20mm being the only option any new thoughts?
    One of the problems here is that alot of people have to much to say about parts they have not tryed in regard to the T/A on a XC bike.

    The weight that you add going to a 20mm T/A is so small that it doesn't matter,But what it adds to a bike is huge.

    There are so many people that say that T/A is over kill for a XC bike & that is more about them just not understanding all that they do.

    With the T/A even if you forget about the fact that it is better because it locks the wheel in the same place all the time so your brake alignment doesn't change.

    & the fact that the wheel can't drop out of the bottom of the fork,

    & even if you forget about the fact that it flex's less so when you turn or for that matter try to go stright over a rutt or just on a high cambered bit of track, the wheel will find it harder to go its own way where you didn't point it.

    The thing that would sell me on the through axle is that,If the fork lowers can't twist as much they have less chance of the lower binding the fork bushes on the upper parts of the fork legs & not letting the shock/fork damper do its job right.

    Thus the T/A fork all other things being equal will work smoother under load.

    So forget the people that say it is over kill & think about how often you hear, You will be faster on a 9mm QR setup,

    No people don't say it because you won't be,They say its overkill.

    I can agree that there are people that will go as fast on a 9mm Qr as they would on a 20mm T/A but even those people are not faster on the QR than the T/A.

    For most people they will be faster on T/A.

    As for the remote lockout,Well I have gone years not even bothering to use the lockouts on some forks but the Jet9 just begs you to ring its neck & I use the lockout for even the short pinch climbs because its there & because I can.

    The Poploc on my Jet9 is like fiding the best 2011 has to offer & not settling for crap that people say well its worked that way for the last 20 years.
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  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    One of the problems here is that alot of people have to much to say about parts they have not tryed in regard to the T/A on a XC bike.

    The weight that you add going to a 20mm T/A is so small that it doesn't matter,But what it adds to a bike is huge.

    There are so many people that say that T/A is over kill for a XC bike & that is more about them just not understanding all that they do.

    With the T/A even if you forget about the fact that it is better because it locks the wheel in the same place all the time so your brake alignment doesn't change.

    & the fact that the wheel can't drop out of the bottom of the fork,

    & even if you forget about the fact that it flex's less so when you turn or for that matter try to go stright over a rutt or just on a high cambered bit of track, the wheel will find it harder to go its own way where you didn't point it.

    The thing that would sell me on the through axle is that,If the fork lowers can't twist as much they have less chance of the lower binding the fork bushes on the upper parts of the fork legs & not letting the shock/fork damper do its job right.

    Thus the T/A fork all other things being equal will work smoother under load.

    So forget the people that say it is over kill & think about how often you hear, You will be faster on a 9mm QR setup,

    No people don't say it because you won't be,They say its overkill.

    I can agree that there are people that will go as fast on a 9mm Qr as they would on a 20mm T/A but even those people are not faster on the QR than the T/A.

    For most people they will be faster on T/A.

    As for the remote lockout,Well I have gone years not even bothering to use the lockouts on some forks but the Jet9 just begs you to ring its neck & I use the lockout for even the short pinch climbs because its there & because I can.

    The Poploc on my Jet9 is like fiding the best 2011 has to offer & not settling for crap that people say well its worked that way for the last 20 years.
    Should we take all of that as opinion?

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    One of the problems here is that alot of people have to much to say about parts they have not tryed in regard to the T/A on a XC bike.

    The weight that you add going to a 20mm T/A is so small that it doesn't matter,But what it adds to a bike is huge.

    There are so many people that say that T/A is over kill for a XC bike & that is more about them just not understanding all that they do.

    With the T/A even if you forget about the fact that it is better because it locks the wheel in the same place all the time so your brake alignment doesn't change.

    & the fact that the wheel can't drop out of the bottom of the fork,

    & even if you forget about the fact that it flex's less so when you turn or for that matter try to go stright over a rutt or just on a high cambered bit of track, the wheel will find it harder to go its own way where you didn't point it.

    The thing that would sell me on the through axle is that,If the fork lowers can't twist as much they have less chance of the lower binding the fork bushes on the upper parts of the fork legs & not letting the shock/fork damper do its job right.

    Thus the T/A fork all other things being equal will work smoother under load.

    So forget the people that say it is over kill & think about how often you hear, You will be faster on a 9mm QR setup,

    No people don't say it because you won't be,They say its overkill.

    I can agree that there are people that will go as fast on a 9mm Qr as they would on a 20mm T/A but even those people are not faster on the QR than the T/A.

    For most people they will be faster on T/A.

    As for the remote lockout,Well I have gone years not even bothering to use the lockouts on some forks but the Jet9 just begs you to ring its neck & I use the lockout for even the short pinch climbs because its there & because I can.

    The Poploc on my Jet9 is like fiding the best 2011 has to offer & not settling for crap that people say well its worked that way for the last 20 years.
    Great feedback and I appreciate it muzz. I like the idea and relating to mountain biking it just seems to make sense. I have had a q/r release while riding before. On road bikes I could see a stronger argument for q/r.

    So with that said sounds like 20mm is my only option up front, and if I understand correctly it's only 10mm at the rear?

    Good thoughts on the poploc as well, coming off a hardtail, that just might be something I learn to enjoy during climbs.

    Thanks

  69. #69
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    Another thing to consider... Many of the front hubs that are compatible with 20mm thru axels are also compatible or can be easily converted to 15mm thru axels (hope, DT Swiss, etc).

    Many 15mm hubs can't be converted to 20mm. Don't let the 20mm hold you back, 15mm has no advantage over the 20mm except maybe 20-50 grams of weight savings. I'm still stuck on a QR fork on my Jet, but will one day have the thru axel like on my other bikes. It's the cat's meow.

  70. #70
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    So, what about Fox

    Considering the input of Bruce Brown, Muzz, JD1072 & kfb et al, if 15 mm was desired, what Fox fork is recommended. I like the idea of locking it out & the Terralogic sounds like a pretty cool feature too. What do you guys think of the Fox forks and what are your experiences?

    Looking at the Fox website it seems I have only two options for a 100 mm fork: Fit Terralogic & Fit RLC in the 32 F29 category. And it appears the 32Talas29 comes only in 120 mm?


    related issue...
    EDIT: This supports Muzzanic's position on the 15 & 20 mm T/A

    http://www.foxracingshox.com/downloa...2_F29_15QR.pdf

    http://www.foxracingshox.com/downloa..._F29FITRLC.pdf
    Last edited by trekmike; 01-14-2011 at 01:18 PM.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by trekmike
    Considering the input of Bruce Brown, Muzz, JD1072 & kfb et al, if 15 mm was desired, what Fox fork is recommended. I like the idea of locking it out & the Terralogic sounds like a pretty cool feature too. What do you guys think the Fox forks and what are your experiences?
    I have run 15mm T/A Fox forks on both my Rip9 & Jet9 & Ilikes them,& would have no problems going back to fox & the 15mm T/A works fine.

    The crown assembly on the Reba looks alot bigger than the Fox so may flex less than the fox but I don't want to get into a debate on that.

    Fox has some really nice forks that have me looking at them twice Terralogic & Talas ) but for the moment the Poploc on the XX fork is a deal maker for me ( & I was never 1 to bother with lock outs )
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  72. #72
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    OP: Sounds like you are getting all your ducks in a row. You will end up with a fine build that suites you well. After hours of research and conversation, I went 1x10 for my build. The merits have been well discussed by others, so I wont bother. +1 another 1x10 fanboy.

    Hubs- I like the versatility and reputation the Hope Pro II has. It's proven and dependable. For the front, I wanted my wheel to be as stiff as possible, so I went Chub. Not too pricey, uber light for a high flange, supper stiff.

    Completed my build with a med x9 rear and x7 shifter, sram 11-36, 34t w/ e13 XCX. Put my cash toward Formula RX set. Glad I spent the money on the brakes and saved on the drivetrain. Also see if the e13components XC SS crank and BB (same as the discontinued fifteen.g) float your boat, innovative design, good weight, super durable. I super happy with the build and would not change a thing. I plan on racing next season and ridding the crap out of my bike until something bust, or get on a FS29er, too tempting to try at this point. Could be dangerous to my wallet and my health!

    BTW, Arches work great for me with spec purgatory 2.4f and captain 2.2r. Will change out for something more racy when necessary. Crest would be nice for the weight, but I'm stoked at 27lbs as is.



    Best luck with your build.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by swill'n
    OP: Sounds like you are getting all your ducks in a row. You will end up with a fine build that suites you well. After hours of research and conversation, I went 1x10 for my build. The merits have been well discussed by others, so I wont bother. +1 another 1x10 fanboy.

    Hubs- I like the versatility and reputation the Hope Pro II has. It's proven and dependable. For the front, I wanted my wheel to be as stiff as possible, so I went Chub. Not too pricey, uber light for a high flange, supper stiff.

    Completed my build with a med x9 rear and x7 shifter, sram 11-36, 34t w/ e13 XCX. Put my cash toward Formula RX set. Glad I spent the money on the brakes and saved on the drivetrain. Also see if the e13components XC SS crank and BB (same as the discontinued fifteen.g) float your boat, innovative design, good weight, super durable. I super happy with the build and would not change a thing. I plan on racing next season and ridding the crap out of my bike until something bust, or get on a FS29er, too tempting to try at this point. Could be dangerous to my wallet and my health!

    BTW, Arches work great for me with spec purgatory 2.4f and captain 2.2r. Will change out for something more racy when necessary. Crest would be nice for the weight, but I'm stoked at 27lbs as is.



    Best luck with your build.
    Thanks for the input and nice build! You certainly won't hear me knocking the hardtail, still have mine and took me a while on decision to go f/s, but I think once you get some time on one, you'll like it!

    I'm definitely sold on the merits of thru-axle and since I'm going with XX Reba looks like it will be 20mm (still not sure about rear)? I sure wish I could hear Hope hubs in person or some online recording before deciding. I don't like excessively loud hubs but sounds like Hope Pro II hubs get great reviews!

    Thanks to everyone for all of the great feedback!

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    I have run 15mm T/A Fox forks on both my Rip9 & Jet9 & Ilikes them,& would have no problems going back to fox & the 15mm T/A works fine.

    The crown assembly on the Reba looks alot bigger than the Fox so may flex less than the fox but I don't want to get into a debate on that.

    Fox has some really nice forks that have me looking at them twice Terralogic & Talas ) but for the moment the Poploc on the XX fork is a deal maker for me ( & I was never 1 to bother with lock outs )
    So for someone not overly excited about the remote lock out, might the Fox F29 Forks be a better option? For those of you that have ridden bikes with both, are there any big differences in riding characteristics between Reba and Fox fork? I've got Fox on my SJ h/t now, but was leaning toward Reba for JET. Sounds like if I want to go 15mm thru-axle Fox may be a good option.

    http://www.foxracingshox.com/bike/10/forks/32_F29


    Another question relating to thru-axle. Do any of you use thru-axle and q/r together or does that minimize the stiffness benefit?

  75. #75
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    Terminology...

    I was getting the impression when talking 10 mm & 15 mm that the use of the terms T/A & QR were interchangeable. In other words, is there such a thing as a 15 mm Qr?

    I also would like to hear more about the Fox forks for the Jet-9. If one wants 100 mm of travel & 15 mm T/A, does this limit the choice to Terralogic & RLC?

    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    S

    Another question relating to thru-axle. Do any of you use thru-axle and q/r together or does that minimize the stiffness benefit?

  76. #76
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    Well I got my first real feel of a JET bike this weekend. Can't really ride yet due to injury but was able to get on small and medium bike. I'm 5'9, 160 lbs and LBS was thinking small might be best fit but I found medium to feel slightly better. I don't doubt I could make the small or medium work, but I'd have to say medium felt more natural pedaling, etc.

    Items I'm pretty sure on now ... black medium frame, XX Reba fork, ZTR Arch wheel set with 20mm thru-axle up front, 1x10 drivetrain with Truvative Stylo 32 crank/ring up front and 11-36 XT cassette.

    Things I'm still debating ... full XO or X9 components, Hope or American Classic hubs (like Hopes, but not sure about Hope noise level)???, and Elixir R brakes or XO brakes to make matchmaker setup work???

  77. #77
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    Making progress...

    Nice going, looks like you are moving along with it! Have you considered the shimano XT brakes?

    Another thought, or question actually, has anyone considered Bontrager wheel sets for the Jet-9 or other bikes?

    Keep us posted on your build & cost (if you feel like it)!

    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Well I got my first real feel of a JET bike this weekend. Can't really ride yet due to injury but was able to get on small and medium bike. I'm 5'9, 160 lbs and LBS was thinking small might be best fit but I found medium to feel slightly better. I don't doubt I could make the small or medium work, but I'd have to say medium felt more natural pedaling, etc.

    Items I'm pretty sure on now ... black medium frame, XX Reba fork, ZTR Arch wheel set with 20mm thru-axle up front, 1x10 drivetrain with Truvative Stylo 32 crank/ring up front and 11-36 XT cassette.

    Things I'm still debating ... full XO or X9 components, Hope or American Classic hubs (like Hopes, but not sure about Hope noise level)???, and Elixir R brakes or XO brakes to make matchmaker setup work???

  78. #78
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    Question relating to brakes ... to get the matchmaker setup on my JET I have to go with XO brakes, my build is currently speced with Elixir R brakes. Is there a significant performance difference between XO (which I believe are Elixir CR) and Elixir R brakes? They cost an extra $190 which seems kind of high to me? Also curious if any of you prefer Avid BB7 brakes vs Elixir R???

    Otherwise I'm very close to finalizing the build options and hope to have it on a trail by early to mid April ... depending on weather of course!

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    I just built a black Jet 9 over Christmas and was able to do the whole thing for $3,500, 40% less than the one shop in town who sells Niner quoted me...

    2010 Frame and Reba XX - on closeout from Bike29
    X9 2x10, XO would have been almost 3x the cost, Speedgoat had some AWESOME pricing around the holidays (sure would love the adjustable trigger though on the XO shifters, and I'm using my BB7's from my old bike)
    Mavic C29SSMAX (great deal on 2010 closeout)
    Thomson stem/clamp/post
    Crank Brothers Candy 3
    Niner bar
    Ergon Grips
    Continental Race Kings tubeless with Stan's

    Total weight came in at 26.03 pounds.

    With the weather where I live, I've only had the chance to ride it once, but it was great!

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by besnard
    I just built a black Jet 9 over Christmas and was able to do the whole thing for $3,500, 40% less than the one shop in town who sells Niner quoted me...

    2010 Frame and Reba XX - on closeout from Bike29
    X9 2x10, XO would have been almost 3x the cost, Speedgoat had some AWESOME pricing around the holidays (sure would love the adjustable trigger though on the XO shifters, and I'm using my BB7's from my old bike)
    Mavic C29SSMAX (great deal on 2010 closeout)
    Thomson stem/clamp/post
    Crank Brothers Candy 3
    Niner bar
    Ergon Grips
    Continental Race Kings tubeless with Stan's

    Total weight came in at 26.03 pounds.

    With the weather where I live, I've only had the chance to ride it once, but it was great!
    Which Stan wheels did you go with ... Arch, Crest, 355? That's a similar price range that I'm looking at with current build after taxes.

    The LBS I'm working with is big on XO upgrade, and one of his reasons is the adjustable triggers, he feels it would be worth it for that alone? Your right though, significant jump in price for that, although I'm going 1x10 so not as bad for me. I'm still debating on X9/XO ... tough decision for me on that part?

    I know either will perform good enough for my level, just wondering if X9 might be more durable with less carbon stuff? That said, I like the idea of XO for adjust ability and matchmaker mount.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66
    Which Stan wheels did you go with ... Arch, Crest, 355? That's a similar price range that I'm looking at with current build after taxes.

    The LBS I'm working with is big on XO upgrade, and one of his reasons is the adjustable triggers, he feels it would be worth it for that alone? Your right though, significant jump in price for that, although I'm going 1x10 so not as bad for me. I'm still debating on X9/XO ... tough decision for me on that part?

    I know either will perform good enough for my level, just wondering if X9 might be more durable with less carbon stuff? That said, I like the idea of XO for adjust ability and matchmaker mount.
    I didn't go with Stan's wheels, just used the Stan's Sealant on the Continental Race Kings. I got a sweet deal on some Mavic C29SSMAX wheels $500 on-line. I don't remember who from though, I'd have to look it up. The cost for me to go XO at the time was about $1400. Since I could get all the X9 stuff I needed around $500, it was a no brainer...

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by besnard
    I didn't go with Stan's wheels, just used the Stan's Sealant on the Continental Race Kings. I got a sweet deal on some Mavic C29SSMAX wheels $500 on-line. I don't remember who from though, I'd have to look it up. The cost for me to go XO at the time was about $1400. Since I could get all the X9 stuff I needed around $500, it was a no brainer...
    Oops I missed that! Saw Stans in your post and assumed. I would agree $900 is a bit excessive for XO upgrade, for me anyway.

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