Informal disc brake poll- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Informal disc brake poll

    I'm in the market, but cannot decide what to get...

    I've spent a little time over on brake board but have come up with nothing beneficial, only people dogging Brand X for sticking pistons, leaking seals, Brand Y for squealing, etc, etc, etc...

    So, in order to make it a little easier without having to post over at Brake Time and not get what I'm looking for, I ask -

    what brand/model disc brakes do you use and what size rotors?

    So lets hear it...

  2. #2
    DSR
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    Avid Juicy 7's - 160mm rotors. S

  3. #3
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    I'm using 1st gen Shimano xt...

    But if I were buying new, I'd prolly go for the Juicys as well.

    the los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

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  4. #4
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    avid mechs here 160mm rotors

    They're cheap and easy to set up (even for me) and they feel like "good brakes" compared to the cantis and v's on my bikes over the years. They feel less grabby to me vs my buddy's Martas...maybe a little less powerful tho. They aren't particularly light. I love 'em!

  5. #5
    Trail rider and racer
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    XT/XTR disk brakes. Sticking pistons are a thing of the past (I had them, got new replacements and have not experienced it in a year!)
    Trev!

  6. #6
    Recovering Weight Weenie
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    Avid Mechanicals
    200mm/8" front 285mm/7" rear on hardtail SS Vulture

    200mm/8" front/rear of the Leviathan

    wife runs Avid Mech's with 6" rotors on all 3 of her bikes save for the 8" rotor on the front of her Bullit.

  7. #7
    luckiest of the unlucky
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    I've read almost nothing but good things about the Hayes HFX 9's (http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/11...iveWithout.pdf). Same thing for the Avid BB7's and Juicy 7's. The only experience I've had with any of them was a testride here and there though. If you want simplicity, go with the BB7's. I've helped setup and bleed a set of hydraulics with some guys in the shop. It was quite the adventure.

  8. #8
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    Yeah, I'm running 7" Avid Mechs on the KM right now. They work well and are very easy to set up fer sure. I've considered a second set for a new build, but the caliper/rotor set with a new set of levers will set me back +/- $250. Then I start thinking that with just a little more cash I can go with hydros. I'm just worried I'll have problems that will cost more money in the long run. I like the look of the Marta SLs, but maintenance sounds like a PITA...and I don't think they offer a 7" rotor. I've seen the Hayes HFX9 Carbons on sale for as little as $200/set.

    Decisions, decisions...

  9. #9
    Axe
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewdog
    what brand/model disc brakes do you use and what size rotors?
    I do run V-brakes in the rear. More then enough, light and simple to maintain.

    In the front - Magura Martha's - on three bikes they work quite nice.
    Last edited by Axe; 01-22-2005 at 02:58 PM.

  10. #10
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    Avid mechs, 185 front / 165 rear

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewdog
    I'm in the market, but cannot decide what to get...

    I've spent a little time over on brake board but have come up with nothing beneficial, only people dogging Brand X for sticking pistons, leaking seals, Brand Y for squealing, etc, etc, etc...

    So, in order to make it a little easier without having to post over at Brake Time and not get what I'm looking for, I ask -

    what brand/model disc brakes do you use and what size rotors?

    So lets hear it...
    in past year:

    Hayes Mag - 8" rotors: nothing special but almost completely trouble free

    XT lever/XTR calipers with 160mm rotors - very good when working. I had calipers replaced under warranty and still had issue come back with new calipers....have since replaced due to frustration.

    Magura Marta SL 160mm front and rear - so far, just awesome. Perfect in every way....I had a great mech set them up for me as I always do. I love em....comparable to the XTR in modulation/stopping power but much less fussy so far.

    Magura Louise Freeride - These brakes are just awesome so far. I love them as I do my Marta SLs. The lever on these is just incredible and will work with twist shifters better than any other lever I bet given its length/profile. Plus, the levers have a sweet industrial look which is killer. I have a 210mm front and 190mm rear rotor.

    Cheers

  12. #12
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    I only like hopes.

    I have tried most disk brakes, and like hope the most. The best modulation and enough power. I never had sqealing problem. Also, best looking brakes around.

  13. #13
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    Formula Xtreme is a piece of art, I really like mine, but have too little miles on them. One was on an XC bike once, and one is on my 4X rig.

    Hayes HFX-9 is a bit heavy, but function surprised me. I got them for the good deal I got on them, but they've been really good. Saved a kid's life once, as he ate dirt on the 4X track, right in my path while I was still in the air. The 160mm front Hayes on that bike managed to get me from full flight to standstill in about 10 feet, including the runoff from the dirt tabl. Lots of brake for the money. Replacement parts seem nice price, at least here in EU. Especially nice when pre-bled. Avid mechs still require levers and cables that do add up in cost.

    Unlimited cash at hand, I'd get the new Formula ORO's, or get more Extreme's. Those guys know their brakes. They make stronger brakes that weih less, I like all my parts that way.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  14. #14
    C-Hog
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    My 2 cents...

    Quote Originally Posted by brewdog
    I'm in the market, but cannot decide what to get...
    what brand/model disc brakes do you use and what size rotors?
    So lets hear it...
    Hayes HFX-9's came stock on the bike. No matter what I tried, could not get them to stop rubbing. (And I'm not some Bozo who doesn't know the difference between a right-handed screwdriver and a left-handed one... been racing and wrenching for nearly 35 of my 46 years.)

    Against Padre's recommendation, I initially went with Avid Juicy's. Awesome product. Installation and set-up was a breeze. But once installed, I decided I just didn't want the hassle of hydraulics.

    Per Padre's recommendation, I'm now with the Avid BB7's. Every bit as awesome as the Juicy's, with less weight, and no hydraulic-related hassles.

    That's my take.
    Jim C.

  15. #15
    Only dead people are old
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    Magura Marta - Got 3 sets, 2 sets are 29" bikes and one waiting for my next 29er (hmmm...will it be a SS?). The Martas have worked flawlessly since installation so I have like zero complaints against them. I do have complaints against disc hubs not all being the same though (some just a tad wider or narrower depending on your perspective). They're great stoppers in all conditions.

  16. #16
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    I'm running Avid Mech 185's on my monkey and i put a set of the 160's on a Cannondale i sold a while back....
    Have had nothing but good experiences with Avid.
    chris

  17. #17

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    Avids mechanicals again...

    I use the Avid Mechanical with 160mm rotors. They are called BB7 now. They're easy to set up and relatively inexpensive.

    Mike

  18. #18
    Uhhhhh...
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Hog
    Hayes HFX-9's came stock on the bike. No matter what I tried, could not get them to stop rubbing. (And I'm not some Bozo who doesn't know the difference between a right-handed screwdriver and a left-handed one... been racing and wrenching for nearly 35 of my 46 years.)

    Against Padre's recommendation, I initially went with Avid Juicy's. Awesome product. Installation and set-up was a breeze. But once installed, I decided I just didn't want the hassle of hydraulics.

    Per Padre's recommendation, I'm now with the Avid BB7's. Every bit as awesome as the Juicy's, with less weight, and no hydraulic-related hassles.

    That's my take.
    Jim C.
    I don't believe the Avid Mechs are lighter than Juicys.

    I have Hope Mono M4 and XT and both feel great.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  19. #19
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Avid mechs with Galfer pads and 185 mm Galfer rotors front and rear through Dia Compe 287V drop bar levers.
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  20. #20
    Steamroller
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    Avid beats Hayes on my bikes

    Quote Originally Posted by C-Hog
    Hayes HFX-9's came stock on the bike. No matter what I tried, could not get them to stop rubbing.................
    Ditto what he said. I have had mucho grief from the Hayes. They stop fine but always rub. I love my Avid mechs, they will be on the new bike as well.
    Two Wheeled and Too Big

  21. #21
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    Good job! 3 sets of avid mechanicals with 3 thumbs up

    160F - 160R mooto x
    185F - 160R fisher 292
    165F - 165R small-wheeled ybb

  22. #22
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    I have only ever used Hope since my formula's failed on me in the 1999 National Champs.

    Since then all brakes seem to be better, I here good things about Avid Juicy brakes and the hopes are still good.

    My next 29er will have Shimano XTR disks. My way of saying sorry to Shimano for singlespeeding.

    P::..

  23. #23
    what a joke
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    7" Avid mechs on the monkey - good easy simple
    Hope mono M4's 8"/7" on the 5 Spot - not simple but better, more progressive
    blah blah blah

  24. #24
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    Avids are hard to beat. I am running the 7" Avids on my KM and love em'. Fairly inexpensive, easy to set-up and trail side maint. is possible but rarely needed.

  25. #25
    C-Hog
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    Avid BB7's Lighter than Juicy's???

    [QUOTE=TheSherpa I don't believe the Avid Mechs are lighter than Juicys.

    I have Hope Mono M4 and XT and both feel great.

    -TS[/QUOTE]



    Not by much, but they are indeed... at least according to the Avid Consumer Support Department...

    Hello Jim,

    Thanks for your interest in SRAM and glad to hear you'll be running Avid brakes. The Juicy 7 front weighs 450g, this weight includes the lever, caliper, line, DOT fluid and rotor. The BB7 front weighs 318g, this includes caliper and rotor. With the addition of one FR5 lever the total weight goes up to 395g, this total does not include cable and housing which for 2 feet of housing and an uncut brake cable weighs about 45g for a grand total of about 440g for a BB7 and FR5 set up.
    If you have any other questions just let me know.

    cheers,

    Craig DeAmbrose
    SRAM Technical Support

  26. #26
    Harmonius Wrench
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    Avid mechanical

    160mm Avid rotors. Make sure to use Nokon cable housings with the Avid mechs. No los of power due to housing compression, and way lighter than common housings!
    Riden' an Smilin'
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  27. #27
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    avid mechanicals

    I have the 165s and love the easy ability to adjust travel! they haul all my weight to a stop in short order. Not quite as smooth as by buddy's hayes hydros, but he has had them into the shop about once a month for something or other.
    Don't get stuck on stupid!

  28. #28
    Uhhhhh...
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    [QUOTE=C-Hog]
    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa I don't believe the Avid Mechs are lighter than Juicys.

    I have Hope Mono M4 and XT and both feel great.

    -TS[/QUOTE



    Not by much, but they are indeed... at least according to the Avid Consumer Support Department...

    Hello Jim,

    Thanks for your interest in SRAM and glad to hear you'll be running Avid brakes. The Juicy 7 front weighs 450g, this weight includes the lever, caliper, line, DOT fluid and rotor. The BB7 front weighs 318g, this includes caliper and rotor. With the addition of one FR5 lever the total weight goes up to 395g, this total does not include cable and housing which for 2 feet of housing and an uncut brake cable weighs about 45g for a grand total of about 440g for a BB7 and FR5 set up.
    If you have any other questions just let me know.

    cheers,

    Craig DeAmbrose
    SRAM Technical Support

    Wow, i never knew that. Seems like there def. close together especially depending on the actual set you get. Thanks.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    160mm Avid rotors. Make sure to use Nokon cable housings with the Avid mechs. No los of power due to housing compression, and way lighter than common housings!
    Ugh! "Way" lighter? Come on, how many <i>grams</i> are we talking about here?

    No doubt, the Nokon is cool beans, but "Way" overpriced.

    The Avid mechs also work great with generic, 25˘/foot QBP/Jagwire housing, so long as it's carefully cut and prepared. No need to double the cost of entry by adding Nokon to the mix.

  30. #30
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    I must say there is some excellent feedback in there, fellers. Thanks.

    I want to throw a flashy set of hydros on like the Marta SLs or Hope Mono Minis', but I just can't take the step to cough up the cash on something that "might" have issues.

    I think I'll use the mechs... I KNOW they work. Anyone found a lever that does not rattle? I've used XT739's which work very well, but without the little travel block thingys they rattle like a baby toy. I just picked up a set of Avid SD7 Ti's that have some rattle.
    Has used the new version of the SD7 or the FR-5?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewdog
    Has used the new version of the SD7 or the FR-5?
    Avoid the FR- series levers, assuming they don't have the Speed Dial leverage adjustment. That leverage adjustment is one of many adjustment options that are a big benefit of mechanical over hydraulic calipers, and it'd be a shame to loose that one.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    Avoid the FR- series levers, assuming they don't have the Speed Dial leverage adjustment. That leverage adjustment is one of many adjustment options that are a big benefit of mechanical over hydraulic calipers, and it'd be a shame to loose that one.
    I have FR's on my Vulture and they don't rattle. Maybe I'm lucky?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    I have FR's on my Vulture and they don't rattle. Maybe I'm lucky?
    No argument there. I'm not calling them noisy, just non-adjustable.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Hog
    Not by much, but they are indeed... at least according to the Avid Consumer Support Department...

    Hello Jim,

    Thanks for your interest in SRAM and glad to hear you'll be running Avid brakes. The Juicy 7 front weighs 450g, this weight includes the lever, caliper, line, DOT fluid and rotor. The BB7 front weighs 318g, this includes caliper and rotor. With the addition of one FR5 lever the total weight goes up to 395g, this total does not include cable and housing which for 2 feet of housing and an uncut brake cable weighs about 45g for a grand total of about 440g for a BB7 and FR5 set up.
    If you have any other questions just let me know.

    cheers,

    Craig DeAmbrose
    SRAM Technical Support
    My brakes alone - caliper, 160 mm rotor, mount and bolts - no levers, no cable, no housing - weigh 360g each.

    They work too well to care about a few extra grams.
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  35. #35
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    It is my general understanding that the larger the wheel, the larger the rotor needed i.e. 160mm rotors for 26" wheels and 185's for 29ers. Is this correct? I see some people with 29" bikes and 160's or some people with 26" bikes and 200+mm rotors. What gives?

    I have been going back and forth between going mechanicals and hydro's. I don't have a lot of experience with both, just a few test rides. One bike was a freerider, and the hydros were incredibly powerful. On a Fisher Montare with mechanicals, they reminded me more of v-brakes, in terms of stopping power.

    What do you recommend for overall performance/value on a 29" cross country bike? I'm definitely not going to go v-brake. I'm not looking to save every last gram, just something that will work well without requiring constant maintenance. I am going to go with Avid's no matter what. So what do you say- BB7 mechanicals or Juicy 7's?


    p.s. I agree that Nokon cables are not worth it. They're very expensive and a real pain to install if you want housing lengths to be exact. With regular housing, just make sure they're not too long or too short, and always finish off the ends of brake housing (I like using a grinder to get perfectly smooth ends and a pointy object like a sharpened spoke to ensure the lining inside the housing isn't obstructed.

  36. #36
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    Hopes

    185/160 Minis on the KM and 203/185 M4s on the RFX.

    Avid mechs are solid brakes period. Plus they're relatively inexpensive. Even more gooderer if you have V levers laying around.

    Sean
    Professional Amateur

  37. #37
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    I never said Nokons were "cheap"!

    To each his own. Nokon housings are lighter, give better brake feel/ modulation, and do not get contaminated, if properly installed. I never said they were cheap! On the contrary, they are VERY expensive compared to Jagwire, or any "common" housings. But my Avid brakes rival the feel of any hydro set-up I have squeezed yet, and with almost two seasons of wet snow, rain and slop, there is no contamination on the inner wires yet. I'll be buying Nokon again, expense be [email protected]#ned!
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  38. #38
    jl
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    I second the Hopes...
    We don't need more to be thankful for; we just need to be more thankful.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    To each his own. Nokon housings are lighter, give better brake feel/ modulation, and do not get contaminated, if properly installed. I never said they were cheap! On the contrary, they are VERY expensive compared to Jagwire, or any "common" housings. But my Avid brakes rival the feel of any hydro set-up I have squeezed yet, and with almost two seasons of wet snow, rain and slop, there is no contamination on the inner wires yet. I'll be buying Nokon again, expense be [email protected]#ned!
    I like the Nokon housings, too. Unless you want to add them to another bike you should never have to buy new housing again. In "beads" do not wear out. The inner liner may need to be replaced after several years. I bought a 30 meter roll of liner for $8. The housing last basically forever, the cables last longer and there can be less maintenance needed. In the long run the Nokons may be cheaper than standard housing. I will be using it full length for all the cables on my next bike.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I like the Nokon housings, too. Unless you want to add them to another bike you should never have to buy new housing again. In "beads" do not wear out. The inner liner may need to be replaced after several years. I bought a 30 meter roll of liner for $8. The housing last basically forever, the cables last longer and there can be less maintenance needed. In the long run the Nokons may be cheaper than standard housing. I will be using it full length for all the cables on my next bike.
    From my experience with the Nokons, I doubt they will last a lifetime. I had some on my time trial machine, and they actually started to corrode! I keep my bikes very clean, but maybe I have toxic sweat...

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregk
    From my experience with the Nokons, I doubt they will last a lifetime. I had some on my time trial machine, and they actually started to corrode! I keep my bikes very clean, but maybe I have toxic sweat...
    I spray mine with Pledge (the outside).
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  42. #42
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    Avids

    Avid mechanical (aka BB7) 185/185. Work great, super simple to adjust and maintain. Heavier than some hydraulics, but I'm a KISS guy and don't like the idea of hydraulics (but that's just me).

  43. #43
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    used to be said....

    It used to be that no one would recommend the larger rotors with 29er wheels as someone said that the stopping power along with the additional forces of the larger wheels would pull the wheel out of the dropouts. I believe that this has been totally discounted as this thread has probably proven.

    Generally, the larger the rotor, the more stopping power, less fade, etc.

    There are a whole lot of threads regarding this if you do a search...there are all manner of opinions and tests (scientific and unscientific) in previous months.

    Quote Originally Posted by gregk
    It is my general understanding that the larger the wheel, the larger the rotor needed i.e. 160mm rotors for 26" wheels and 185's for 29ers. Is this correct? I see some people with 29" bikes and 160's or some people with 26" bikes and 200+mm rotors. What gives?

    I have been going back and forth between going mechanicals and hydro's. I don't have a lot of experience with both, just a few test rides. One bike was a freerider, and the hydros were incredibly powerful. On a Fisher Montare with mechanicals, they reminded me more of v-brakes, in terms of stopping power.

    What do you recommend for overall performance/value on a 29" cross country bike? I'm definitely not going to go v-brake. I'm not looking to save every last gram, just something that will work well without requiring constant maintenance. I am going to go with Avid's no matter what. So what do you say- BB7 mechanicals or Juicy 7's?


    p.s. I agree that Nokon cables are not worth it. They're very expensive and a real pain to install if you want housing lengths to be exact. With regular housing, just make sure they're not too long or too short, and always finish off the ends of brake housing (I like using a grinder to get perfectly smooth ends and a pointy object like a sharpened spoke to ensure the lining inside the housing isn't obstructed.
    Don't get stuck on stupid!

  44. #44
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    Lone Wolf

    I've been using the IRD Dual Banger Mechanicals with 160mm rotors for a few months now. A bit lighter than the Avid, both pads hit the rotor at the same time, uses easily available Shimano Deore brake pads, and includes compressionless housing to really improve the feel.
    MTBR is serious stuff.
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  45. #45
    featherweight clydesdale
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    Avid mechs, 185 front / 165 rear

    on both an RX and B-29. I really wish they'd come out with a lighter version. I keep thinking about going with something lighter, but the mechs just plain work.

  46. #46
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    Dual Banger brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by bigwheelboy_490
    I've been using the IRD Dual Banger Mechanicals with 160mm rotors for a few months now. A bit lighter than the Avid, both pads hit the rotor at the same time, uses easily available Shimano Deore brake pads, and includes compressionless housing to really improve the feel.
    How are they holding up? How does performance compare with Avid or hydraulics for that matter, since they compare them with dual piston fluid brakes.

  47. #47

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    Avid mechs 185/160 and love 'em.

  48. #48
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    Louise

    Another vote here for Magura Louise FR's. Got a set on the KM, like them a lot. 180mm front and 160 rear, no additonal adapters needed, just 10 minutes of shimming, and they're good to go. I like the looks of them as well, plus the lever feel is great. I've always thought that the Avid levers were a bit bulky feeling, maybe a wide blade on the lever or something.

    Plum

  49. #49
    mtbr member
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    Avid mechs on both 9ers, 185/165... Complaints? Nada.

  50. #50
    Cassoulet forever !
    Reputation: 20.100 FR's Avatar
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    I've got Marta and HFX9, foth are nice.

    I hear a lot of praise for Hope mini.
    Frenchspeaking 29"ers community site http://VingtNeuf.org

  51. #51
    Appalachian Singletrack'n
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    I have had terrible luck with Nokian cables too. I have only tried them on my road bike but the beads corrode quickly look terrible and seized up in the cable stops. I also didn’t like their lack of stability, they seemed to flop around and rattle against the frame.

  52. #52
    Appalachian Singletrack'n
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    I run:
    Avid Mechanicals 185/165 on the Wily 29”er
    Avid Road mechanicals 203/203 on the tandem
    Hope Mono Mini 185/165 on the 26” SS
    Hope Mini 165/145 on the wife’s HH100X

    I love both avids and Hopes. The Avids are super simpleand reliable but the Hopes feel sooo good at the lever. I had some older hayes years ago, nothing made me cuss more than those things.

  53. #53
    My gloves stink
    Reputation: Appendage's Avatar
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    Mechs powerful enough for XC

    I've had Avid mechs on 2 bikes now. Like everyone says, they're easy to set up, adjust and maintain. To me, that's important.

    I rode a bike with hydraulic discs, and they did have more stopping power at a given degree of lever effort.

    So, it depends on what's important to you. The mechs have plenty of stopping power for my XC applications, and yes, I ride plenty of big hills and steep hills. If I were ever to build a FR or DH bike (yeah right), I'd consider a set of hydraulics.

    FWIW

  54. #54

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    2 Piece Box

    I love both avids and Hopes. The Avids are super simpleand reliable but the Hopes feel sooo good at the lever. I had some older hayes years ago, nothing made me cuss more than those things.[/QUOTE]

    I got a set of Hope Mono Mini's for my Racer-X 29er. I got 160mm rotors. They even make 140mm rotors. I never heard anybody running some so small. I think I could have gotten away with one on the back since I weight 160Lbs. But I just got the standard 160m Front & Rear. One thing that I did blindly was order the new Hope 2 Piece rotor. I don't have them one yet., but time will tell.

    I actually toyed with the idea of getting a 185mm rotor, or maybe the 4 piston 160mm. Which gets more stopping power there. I've always had 160/160 on my other bike and had plenty of power
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  55. #55
    mtbr member
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    Avid mechs 185/165 and no problems in 3 years.

  56. #56
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    Avid Mechanicals rule!!!

    Avid Mech's for 2.5 years, zero problems I run 160/160 and use shifter cable housing as well.

  57. #57
    Appalachian Singletrack'n
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    They made a 140 for the original Mini but I think they dropped it for the new "Mono Mini" that back 140 brake is on my wife’s bike she is about 120lbs and it gives here all the stopping power she needs.

    I love the look of the new hope rotors they look like they a Brembo motorcycle disk. Id be interested to see if they give any advantages besides weight.

  58. #58
    Where's Toto?
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    Avid Juicy Sevens - no issues, no problems.

  59. #59

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    Hope Mono Mini 160s F/R on the Monkey...

    We'll see how they do this weekend.



    Peter

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