Gorilla tape tubless review...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Gorilla tape tubless review...

    Works great.

    Got a roll of the tape,a bottle of stans and 2 presta valves cut out of old tubes.

    Saved 4oz each wheel along with swaping the exiwolf for ignitors i saved some good weight and saved a ton of money over buying the tubless "kit'

    the front lost ir over night but after airing it back up and riding it the next day i've had zero issues.


    part 1
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0

    part 2
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1ib5HdA5M

  2. #2
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    I've just done this too and it works great. If I had to amend the videos this is what I would say.

    1. Pull the tape onto the rim tightly, weaving slightly side to side to seat it properly.
    2. Use a new razor blade to cut the tape away from the lip inside the rim. Be precise here so as to not cut into a spoke hole.
    3. Don't leave so much rubber around the valve. It is going to seal very close to actual rubber that ramps up to the valve so it only needs about 1cm of rubber around the valve (some tubes may need a little more).
    4. Don't tape over the valve.
    5. If you can't get the tire to seat you may have to use another air tool that blast a large volume of air into the tire to puff it out onto the bead and then fill from the valve. (or if you have the luxury as i do, use both at the same time)
    6. Shake the wheels, but after there on ride them for awhile and jostle them around to get the sealant going.

    This has worked great for me. Should also mention that I did my friends too and they have been great.

  3. #3
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    Will this work with most rim tire combo's. I run ghetto now and am happy with that except for the pain of changing tires and not having much luck be able to re-use the old ghetto tube.

    Thx!

  4. #4
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    hmm i might have to try this if the feedback stays positive

  5. #5
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    There are a couple of other threads running around the forums with mainly positive results. Some rims don't seem to have quite as good of a bead seat, so the tire can shift inboard and burp or come unseated. On my WTB rims it has been flawless (that's 26in size though).
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er
    There are a couple of other threads running around the forums with mainly positive results. Some rims don't seem to have quite as good of a bead seat, so the tire can shift inboard and burp or come unseated. On my WTB rims it has been flawless (that's 26in size though).
    29er WTB Rims work great too

  7. #7
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    Did not have so much luck with this method on my Easton Havoc wheels, but they are a deep rim. The tape is definitely thick and i would imagine hold air well IF you can get them to seat..

  8. #8
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    why not use a tubeless valve stem? Seems like it would be a little more solid than the rubber tube stem.
    Oh sh!+ just force upgraded to cat1. Now what?
    Best thing about an ultra marathon? I just get to ride my bike for X hours!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlliKat
    why not use a tubeless valve stem? Seems like it would be a little more solid than the rubber tube stem.
    I suppose you could, but I think the idea is cheap.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    I suppose you could, but I think the idea is cheap.
    I may have to try the tubeless valve stem....as I was successful with the ghetto tubeless, but I am getting some leakage on my rear valve stem which requires me to top it off.

  11. #11
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    Bontrager stems are 3.99 a piece.

  12. #12
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    Have you tried Pipe tape?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leethal
    Have you tried Pipe tape?
    Does it cost less than $2.99 a roll?

  14. #14
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    Rub some Stans to the bottom of the stem/tube before you put it in and screw it down. I do this with my tubeless stems and they don't seem to leak like they used to before I did this. Can't hurt to help fill up some of the gaps.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by metelhead
    I may have to try the tubeless valve stem....as I was successful with the ghetto tubeless, but I am getting some leakage on my rear valve stem which requires me to top it off.
    Did you run the tape over the valve stem like the video shows?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter
    Bontrager stems are 3.99 a piece.
    I use these, they are nice.
    Been gorilla tubeless for close to 2 weeks , loving it so far, WTB 26" rims worked very well.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Does it cost less than $2.99 a roll?
    I think it might??? I dunno was just the method I seen on here before... wondered if it was better/not as good/same.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leethal
    I think it might??? I dunno was just the method I seen on here before... wondered if it was better/not as good/same.
    Haven't tried it, I don't have any reason to since the Gorilla Tape works great...at least on WTB SpeedDisc/LaserDisc rims. I've had no leaks from the valve stem or the spoke bead and the $2.99 "Handy Roll" is enough to do at least two wheelsets and takes the cutting part out of the equation (again, at least on the WTB rims).

  19. #19
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    Will this work with/ any reason it would not work with?:

    DTSwiss XR 4.1d "s
    Regular (non UST) Kenda nevegal & regular Blue Groove?

  20. #20
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    I did the Gorilla tubeless on Mavic TN719 29r rims with 2.25 Geax Sagauro tires. So easy! Little trouble getting them to air up on the bead. Once on however they have not leaked at all. Went with a 2/3 stans to 1/3 slime ratio. Had five goat head stickers in my tires today. No flats or leaks....Sweet.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by goneskiian
    Did you run the tape over the valve stem like the video shows?
    Nope, you don't need to. Here's a picture of my setup, I cut the valve out of a standard weight tube and applied a little sealant before tightening it down.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shebagger
    Will this work with/ any reason it would not work with?:

    DTSwiss XR 4.1d "s
    Regular (non UST) Kenda nevegal & regular Blue Groove?

    I don't see any issue, but make sure you cut the tape away from the bead so the tire can seat properly.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo
    I did the Gorilla tubeless on Mavic TN719 29r rims with 2.25 Geax Sagauro tires. So easy! Little trouble getting them to air up on the bead. Once on however they have not leaked at all. Went with a 2/3 stans to 1/3 slime ratio. Had five goat head stickers in my tires today. No flats or leaks....Sweet.
    I'm curious. What's the advantage/purpose of mixing Stan's and Slime?

    Thanks

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Nope, you don't need to. Here's a picture of my setup, I cut the valve out of a standard weight tube and applied a little sealant before tightening it down.
    I hear you but tape over the valve would probably solve his leaky valve issues as well.

  25. #25
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    I used gasket maker around my valves when I did my tubeless.

  26. #26
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    One of the keys to getting the valves to seal is to not cut the tape away from the hole. Just make a small X in the tape and push the valve through. This allows the tape to compress with the rubber on the valve to smooth out the irregular surfaces.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo
    I did the Gorilla tubeless on Mavic TN719 29r rims with 2.25 Geax Sagauro tires. So easy! Little trouble getting them to air up on the bead. Once on however they have not leaked at all. Went with a 2/3 stans to 1/3 slime ratio. Had five goat head stickers in my tires today. No flats or leaks....Sweet.

    I have the same rims and am wondering if I can get my Crossmarks/Ardents to air up without a compressor using a floor pump? Anyone? I think if I do the "strap around the tire" method it would work..I don't want to buy a compressor just for this right now.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by palmermtb
    I'm curious. What's the advantage/purpose of mixing Stan's and Slime?

    Thanks
    Just a personal thing I wanted to try. Stans supposedly dries out after a couple months and I like the fibers that is in slime for plugging the big leaks. So far so good.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnBikeNC
    I have the same rims and am wondering if I can get my Crossmarks/Ardents to air up without a compressor using a floor pump? Anyone? I think if I do the "strap around the tire" method it would work..I don't want to buy a compressor just for this right now.
    My front tire would have never aired up with out a compressor. Maybe with a strap it would work.

  30. #30
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    If you are having trouble seating the bead without a compressor, try inserting a tube and inflating the tire to seat the bead. Deflate and break only one side of the tire from the rim and pull the tube. Insert the tubeless valve and sealant (if you don't have a removable core valve stem) then reinflate. Usually having one side of the tire seated makes it possible to inflate with a floor pump. Worked for me.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutthroat
    If you are having trouble seating the bead without a compressor, try inserting a tube and inflating the tire to seat the bead. Deflate and break only one side of the tire from the rim and pull the tube. Insert the tubeless valve and sealant (if you don't have a removable core valve stem) then reinflate. Usually having one side of the tire seated makes it possible to inflate with a floor pump. Worked for me.
    Good trick to keep in the back pocket. If the floor pump isn't enough - I figure between a 1" nylon strap around the tire and a C02 pump I should be ok without a compressor..

  32. #32
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    What is this "strap" method? I don't have a compressor either.

    Thanks.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by goneskiian
    What is this "strap" method? I don't have a compressor either.

    Thanks.
    I think Stan's mentions it in his video - you just use a strap/belt wrapped around the entire outside of the tire to pull the tire bead in tight to the rim and help spread the tire beads towards the outside of the rim..

    It's an old trick for mounting moto tires. I've done it with riding mower tires (think wide!) and it worked great.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by goneskiian
    I hear you but tape over the valve would probably solve his leaky valve issues as well.
    I have been using stems cut out from old road tubes - but placed on Stan's yellow tape. For sealing, I just use a hot glue gun. It seals really well, and it relatively precise in it's application.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timo
    I have been using stems cut out from old road tubes - but placed on Stan's yellow tape. For sealing, I just use a hot glue gun. It seals really well, and it relatively precise in it's application.
    Tmo,
    I like you're enginuity, can you show some pictures or maybe a procedure? I was going to go buy some Bontrager stems today.

    Do you place the sticky part of the Stan's tape towrads the rim or away from the rim? Why not just use the gorrila tape?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Haven't tried it, I don't have any reason to since the Gorilla Tape works great...at least on WTB SpeedDisc/LaserDisc rims. I've had no leaks from the valve stem or the spoke bead and the $2.99 "Handy Roll" is enough to do at least two wheelsets and takes the cutting part out of the equation (again, at least on the WTB rims).
    This works equally as good on WTB SpeedDisc rims w/o cutting the tape? The rims that came on my XXIX are 24mm, and the tape looks to be a bit too wide. Also, the channel seems awfully deep like it needs to be "built up" a la velox tape or something.

  37. #37
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    Where do you get this gorilla tape? Home depot? I have the wtb speed disc rims on my 29" SOK and I think I'm going to give this a try.

  38. #38
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    got mine at lowes.

    my rims are wtb' s/d also...

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    This works equally as good on WTB SpeedDisc rims w/o cutting the tape? The rims that came on my XXIX are 24mm, and the tape looks to be a bit too wide. Also, the channel seems awfully deep like it needs to be "built up" a la velox tape or something.
    The channel doesn't need to be built up...in fact if you look at the Mavic UST rim, it has a deep channel with a "shelf" for the bead to sit up on. The WTB rims have this same profile, it makes them very easy to get the tires on and also makes mounting a valve stem (ghetto made or a UST stem) easy as it sits right down in that channel.

    I have the Speed Disc AM's which are 26.5mm wide, the tape width is perfect. On a 24mm wide rim (XC version I assume), you may need to trim.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlycrimson
    One of the keys to getting the valves to seal is to not cut the tape away from the hole. Just make a small X in the tape and push the valve through. This allows the tape to compress with the rubber on the valve to smooth out the irregular surfaces.
    Yep, little "X" will do yah
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  41. #41
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    Yea, I found it at the local home depot... i knew about the glue but this is the first I have heard of the tape... also picked up a new kenda small block 8 for the rear and a bontrager xdx for the front. my bike came with the exi wolfs on it and I liked them but I thought I'd try a new set up.
    Last edited by xtreme6669; 09-13-2009 at 09:10 PM.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    I have the Speed Disc AM's which are 26.5mm wide, the tape width is perfect. On a 24mm wide rim (XC version I assume), you may need to trim.
    That's the odd part, I didn't know there was a different version. Their website doesn't show that (they are 29"er SpeedDisc), but the label on the rim certainly says 24mm. Who knows.

    edit: Nevermind, I just found them listed on the WTB website in the 26" rim section, as a 700c. Mystery solved. I'll bust out the exacto knife and trim the tape if needed.

  43. #43
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    anyone tried it on a stans rim? I know they have their own tape, but I am out and it takes 2 weeks to get stuff to Germany.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnitedWeRide
    anyone tried it on a stans rim? I know they have their own tape, but I am out and it takes 2 weeks to get stuff to Germany.
    Try caffelatex rim tape.
    Order directly from the site:
    http://www.effettomariposa.com/prodotti_en.html
    or contact German distributor for more info.

  45. #45
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    The fact that one day or the other the tire seals is after all not surprising.
    What I'd like to understand how reliable it is.
    On the Stan's video, it says you can go tubeless by just puting trhe yellow tape.
    However, it is is more dependable if you use the rim strip on top of the yellow tape.
    Does the incremental thickness of the strip prevent the tube from burping out ?
    Besides Stan's willingbness to sell his strip, Is there anyone who could give his experience of a taped rim with or without a rubber strip.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by eric_syd
    The fact that one day or the other the tire seals is after all not surprising.
    What I'd like to understand how reliable it is.
    On the Stan's video, it says you can go tubeless by just puting trhe yellow tape.
    However, it is is more dependable if you use the rim strip on top of the yellow tape.
    Does the incremental thickness of the strip prevent the tube from burping out ?
    Besides Stan's willingbness to sell his strip, Is there anyone who could give his experience of a taped rim with or without a rubber strip.
    This is similar to the "Ghetto Tubeless" using a split tube. I have used the Split Tube method and it is very reliable...in fact I replicated the C-Clamp test that is shown in the Stans video and could not get my non-tubeless tires to burp. The downside is replacing tires is a pain.

    I think the Gorilla Tape method, like the Stans Yellow Tape is very dependent on the rim and tire combo. A rim with a strong bead hook like the Stans or like the WTB rims offer a very secure interface. Some other brands may not be as good, that is part of the inherent risk of using a "Ghetto" type tubeless system. Also, using tires that are either designed to run tubeless or that have strong beads will be a factor. I have not replicated the C-Clamp test on the Gorilla Tape setup but I suspect it will be similar to what is shown on the Stans video with their rim and yellow tape. With Tubeless Ready tires, I have not once burped on my WTB rims using Gorilla Tape and I run 27psi (and weigh 225lbs).

  47. #47
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    [QUOTE=mtnbiker72]This is similar to the "Ghetto Tubeless" using a split tube. I have used the Split Tube method and it is very reliable...in fact I replicated the C-Clamp test that is shown in the Stans video and could not get my non-tubeless tires to burp. The downside is replacing tires is a pain.
    QUOTE]

    Thanks for sharing your experience.
    I have a set of split tube ghetto too and the issue is definitely the tire changing.
    You're saying: result is dependant on the tire/ rim combo.
    My question really was, by which mechanism does the Stan's strip secure the tire to the bead better than no strip ?
    Is it the friction it creates ? Does its thickness compresses the bead to the rim hook ?
    I still don't understand really.
    So if I do the Gorilla tape thing, am I better off also making a rubber rimstrip from one of my previous "split-tube" or do nothing ?

  48. #48
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    [QUOTE=eric_syd]
    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    This is similar to the "Ghetto Tubeless" using a split tube. I have used the Split Tube method and it is very reliable...in fact I replicated the C-Clamp test that is shown in the Stans video and could not get my non-tubeless tires to burp. The downside is replacing tires is a pain.
    QUOTE]

    Thanks for sharing your experience.
    I have a set of split tube ghetto too and the issue is definitely the tire changing.
    You're saying: result is dependant on the tire/ rim combo.
    My question really was, by which mechanism does the Stan's strip secure the tire to the bead better than no strip ?
    Is it the friction it creates ? Does its thickness compresses the bead to the rim hook ?
    I still don't understand really.
    So if I do the Gorilla tape thing, am I better off also making a rubber rimstrip from one of my previous "split-tube" or do nothing ?

    Split-tube method - the tube sort of semi-bonds to the tire bead per the stan's juice.

    If you take that a step further and rubber cemet the split tube to the tire bead you have a DIY tubular tire. That's what I've done with a Specialized Eskar 2bliss tire with a SUN CR-18 rim and it's been bomber so far, even below 20PSI.

  49. #49
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    [QUOTE=Ron]
    Quote Originally Posted by eric_syd


    Split-tube method - the tube sort of semi-bonds to the tire bead per the stan's juice.

    If you take that a step further and rubber cemet the split tube to the tire bead you have a DIY tubular tire. That's what I've done with a Specialized Eskar 2bliss tire with a SUN CR-18 rim and it's been bomber so far, even below 20PSI.
    I like the idea, what type of glue did you use and how did you proceed ? Did you glue it under pressure ?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by goneskiian
    What is this "strap" method? I don't have a compressor either.

    Thanks.
    What do you mean you don't have a compressor?? Everyone has a compressor. I keep mine down at the corner gas station.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnitedWeRide
    anyone tried it on a stans rim? I know they have their own tape, but I am out and it takes 2 weeks to get stuff to Germany.
    I haven't done this personally, but know of folks who've used plain ol' reinforced strapping tape that you can buy in any hardware store. It even comes in reasonably narrow widths.

  52. #52
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    [QUOTE=eric_syd]
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron

    I like the idea, what type of glue did you use and how did you proceed ? Did you glue it under pressure ?
    I used plain rubber cemet, Elmers brand. It comes in a container with a small brush that makes it easy to apply. I built up the rim with a couple layers of straping tape so that the tire fit real tight and aired up with a floor pump without any sealant. Then let out the air and brushed on a good layer of glue on the bead\split tube interface. Aired the tire back up and let sit for an hour. After and hour let out the air and added sealant. Trimmed the excess tube and it's finished- easy setup. So far no burping issues at all even at low PSI, so low that I had to add PSI to keep the tire from squirming on this narrow rim.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by palmermtb
    Tmo,
    I like you're enginuity, can you show some pictures or maybe a procedure? I was going to go buy some Bontrager stems today.

    Do you place the sticky part of the Stan's tape towrads the rim or away from the rim? Why not just use the gorrila tape?
    I bought an old wheelset from mikesee and noticed he had used the hot glue gun. The wheelset had yellowtape (sticky side towards the rim, as it is supposed to be) with both the tape overlap end and the valve core sealed with the glue. I never followed up to ask him if it was a hot glue gun but I assumed it was.

    So a bit later on, I tried it on one of my other wheelsets. I had some yellow tape, and put it on the rim...and then I went looking for a valve core. Could not find any, so I cut one out of an old road tube (I like the longer stem length). There is usually a circular reinforced rubber section around the valve core...cut that out too (smaller than a dime radius). Trim the rubber down to fit inside the rim and then squirt in the glue. Spin the presta nut down to hold it in place. Pretty darn simple and now I've got 4 wheels in the house like that.

    I may try the gorilla tape method - just have not had a reason to try yet. All bikes are already tubeless right now anyway......

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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    That's the odd part, I didn't know there was a different version. Their website doesn't show that (they are 29"er SpeedDisc), but the label on the rim certainly says 24mm. Who knows.

    edit: Nevermind, I just found them listed on the WTB website in the 26" rim section, as a 700c. Mystery solved. I'll bust out the exacto knife and trim the tape if needed.
    Gorilla Tape Tubeless w/ WTB SpeedDisc XC (24mm) = EPIC FAIL

    I was so enthusiastic about how easily the tape went in the channel, no trimming required. I even made a nice little valve stem out of an old tube. Threw on the WTB WWLT 2.55 tire, and no go. Bead was way too loose, even soapy bubbles and the air compressor couldn't make it happen. I'm pretty sure it was the tire (never seen a WWLT be that loose of a bead), but since that's my front tire of choice I rate the system a "fail". I'm not going to go to a lesser tire on my rigid fork just so the tubless will work, no compromising here. I'll run a tube for now, but this just accelerates my desire for a new wheelset done up with Stans Flows. Thought y'all might like to know its not all daisies on every setup

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    Gorilla Tape Tubeless w/ WTB SpeedDisc XC (24mm) = EPIC FAIL

    I was so enthusiastic about how easily the tape went in the channel, no trimming required. I even made a nice little valve stem out of an old tube. Threw on the WTB WWLT 2.55 tire, and no go. Bead was way too loose, even soapy bubbles and the air compressor couldn't make it happen. I'm pretty sure it was the tire (never seen a WWLT be that loose of a bead), but since that's my front tire of choice I rate the system a "fail". I'm not going to go to a lesser tire on my rigid fork just so the tubless will work, no compromising here. I'll run a tube for now, but this just accelerates my desire for a new wheelset done up with Stans Flows. Thought y'all might like to know its not all daisies on every setup
    Might work better if the bead rim interface was tighten up by using multiple layers of the gorilla tape.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    Gorilla Tape Tubeless w/ WTB SpeedDisc XC (24mm) = EPIC FAIL

    I was so enthusiastic about how easily the tape went in the channel, no trimming required. I even made a nice little valve stem out of an old tube. Threw on the WTB WWLT 2.55 tire, and no go. Bead was way too loose, even soapy bubbles and the air compressor couldn't make it happen. I'm pretty sure it was the tire (never seen a WWLT be that loose of a bead), but since that's my front tire of choice I rate the system a "fail". I'm not going to go to a lesser tire on my rigid fork just so the tubless will work, no compromising here. I'll run a tube for now, but this just accelerates my desire for a new wheelset done up with Stans Flows. Thought y'all might like to know its not all daisies on every setup
    I know mntbiker72 claims it isn't necessary based on his experience, but for me filling the center channel like you asked about before was the difference between failure like you just described and success with just a couple of shots from a floor pump (using the split tube method on a LaserDisc with the same basic rim profile). If any part of the tire bead slides down into the channel then the bead on the opposite side of the tire will fit looser and possibly let enough air out so that pressure can't be built up anywhere else.

    Other workarounds may help too, such as additional tape like Ron just mentioned or the strap method also from this thread. A tire with a stiffer sidewall would not let the bead wander away from the hook area as easily too (I am curious which tires mtnbiker72 used)

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I know mntbiker72 claims it isn't necessary based on his experience, but for me filling the center channel like you asked about before was the difference between failure like you just described and success with just a couple of shots from a floor pump (using the split tube method on a LaserDisc with the same basic rim profile). If any part of the tire bead slides down into the channel then the bead on the opposite side of the tire will fit looser and possibly let enough air out so that pressure can't be built up anywhere else.

    Other workarounds may help too, such as additional tape like Ron just mentioned or the strap method also from this thread. A tire with a stiffer sidewall would not let the bead wander away from the hook area as easily too (I am curious which tires mtnbiker72 used)
    Oh, it definitely needs a wrap or two of Velox. I have been using a Stans conversion of some sort since 2003, and I know a channel that's too deep when I see one. I just wanted to try it per the glaring reviews and instructions, but I knew as soon as a put the tire on that it wasn't going to seat. That's why I didn't put any Stan's into the tire before trying to air it up, I knew it would just be wasted.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    Gorilla Tape Tubeless w/ WTB SpeedDisc XC (24mm) = EPIC FAIL

    I was so enthusiastic about how easily the tape went in the channel, no trimming required. I even made a nice little valve stem out of an old tube. Threw on the WTB WWLT 2.55 tire, and no go. Bead was way too loose, even soapy bubbles and the air compressor couldn't make it happen. I'm pretty sure it was the tire (never seen a WWLT be that loose of a bead), but since that's my front tire of choice I rate the system a "fail". I'm not going to go to a lesser tire on my rigid fork just so the tubless will work, no compromising here. I'll run a tube for now, but this just accelerates my desire for a new wheelset done up with Stans Flows. Thought y'all might like to know its not all daisies on every setup

    You just need two air sources to get the tire to seat up. Rotate the valve to the bottom and use an air gun in the top of the tire. The air gun causes the tire to inflate rapidly and when the gun is pulled out from the tire pump air through the valve. The tire will seat. I almost guarantee that I could get your setup to work. My rear tire was VERY loose on the rim and I thought it would never work, but with the above method it did.

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    Thought I should also mention that I have about 5 rides and one race on my gorilla tubeless and it has held up really well. I've been very impressed actually.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlycrimson
    You just need two air sources to get the tire to seat up. Rotate the valve to the bottom and use an air gun in the top of the tire. The air gun causes the tire to inflate rapidly and when the gun is pulled out from the tire pump air through the valve. The tire will seat. I almost guarantee that I could get your setup to work. My rear tire was VERY loose on the rim and I thought it would never work, but with the above method it did.
    I'm quite sure I can get it to work too, just have to velox it and retape. I just couldn't be bothered to f with it anymore today. My point was that the channel needs to be built up, it's not just "tape it and forget it" in this case/this combo.

    edit: I have used this method before, on DT 5.1d rims and it worked fine, so I know it does work.

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    I like the cost savings

    The biggest reason for looking into the Gorilla and Ghetto tubeless as an option is for the cost savings. I think 15 bucks for 10 yards of Stans yellow tape is super rediculous. As well, Stan's valve stems are pretty lame for the price. The Bontragers are super robust and higher quality for half the price.

    Now if I could only find a recipe for DIY sealant. I'm getting pretty tired of paying $25 for a quart of Stan's sealant.

    Anybody doing a home brew sealant?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by eric_syd
    Thanks for sharing your experience.
    I have a set of split tube ghetto too and the issue is definitely the tire changing.
    You're saying: result is dependant on the tire/ rim combo.
    My question really was, by which mechanism does the Stan's strip secure the tire to the bead better than no strip ?
    Is it the friction it creates ? Does its thickness compresses the bead to the rim hook ?
    I still don't understand really.
    So if I do the Gorilla tape thing, am I better off also making a rubber rimstrip from one of my previous "split-tube" or do nothing ?
    The Stans strip does not secure the tire to the bead hook any better. What it does do is create a seal between the tire bead and rim strip along the bottom of the bead. So if the bead temporarily pulls away from the bead hook...it won't burp air. That is one of the main reasons Stans needs you to build up the bed of the rim on some set ups...so the rim strip will contact the tire and create a seal. This is very similar to the Ghetto setup except it doesn't contact all the way up the bead.


  63. #63
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    Used thick electric tape and this sealant mix http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...55#post6111655

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