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  1. #1
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    First bike in 10 years or more

    The last bike I had was a little blue mongoose, a 26" 21-speed, and it was a blast. It was stolen a million years ago, out of the garage. I liked it. Piece of crap, but it was mine. Now, nursing a broken foot, I've decided I want to ride again.
    I used my dad's bike over the past 5 years or so, a helluva thing, all titanium and xtr... but it's a rather small bike for me at 6'3" (my dad 5'9") and I don't want to risk injury to myself, nor cruise around like a hobbit, any longer. I'd been thinking about putting a bike together for a while now - being grounded with the broken foot has got me itching worse than ever.
    SO - I knew from the get go that I wanted to build a chromoly 29er. I'm trying to build a do-all bike, with a MTB heart. With 29" wheels I figure cruising around town on asphalt should be a breeze, and hitting the trails, a ball. The steel - tough but forgiving ride, as I don't intend to utilize a front suspension fork. Hard all the way round.
    I'd like to keep the price of the complete bike somewhere in the arena of $1200. This is just a well rounded figure that sounded good in my head, based on the frames I was considering, and the drivetrain, brakes, components, etc.
    I like the 4130 offered by Salsa/Surly, so I looked at the El Mariachi and the Karate Monkey, ultimately deciding on the KM because of the price difference. I couldn't find one anywhere to sit on in person, so I'm hoping the 22" (XL) will fit nicely, being aforementioned 6'3", 35" inseam, all that. From what I've read, a 20" or a 22" could fit, depending more on riding style as opposed to dimensions. Please correct me on that if you feel differently or know about the KM specifically. Obviously it would be best to sit on one, but I'm not sure that will be doable. A friend of mine is in a bike frame welding class and has access to major discounts on some companies/frames, Surly being one of them. This was total coincidence, as I learned this before deciding on the frame. I'm stuck with the 22" because it is the only size available through these means. Not worried.
    The rest of the bike then. I'd like disc brakes. I'm sure there's much to say in this arena, but based on the amount I'd like to spend, I think mechanicals, specifically 185mm (Front/Rear) BB7s should suffice for at least as long as I don't know any better. Also, I like the idea of low maintenance and good modulation. Again, correct me if off base at any point.
    The drivetrain will ideally be a 2x9 setup, with an 11-34t cassette, and 28-42 chainrings. If you can think of a better combination of gears, do tell. Obviously, I wont even be able to give this bike a proper thrashing for a while, so attempting to describe my physical ability is rather futile ATM. If it means anything though, when I wasn't broken, I had some good power in my legs. Backpacker/hiker, but I realize the motions in hiking and biking are different. It's hard to say how well I could ride my dad's bike, because it was so small and I wasn't able to utilize my strength well. As for the shifters and the rest of the crankset, I would like to use, at minimum Shimano SLX level components. But if I could get my hands on XT for the right price (or its equivalent SRAM, what have you), I would.
    Does it make sense to buy an entire drivetrain set? I.E., cassette, crankset, shifters, hubs, to save $ on shipping charges if I chose to try and save money by buying individual components? Also, there are so many bottom brackets out there... my bud told me a square tapered Octalink would give me lots of options, but I'm not sure where the compatibility part is even concerned... Is Octalink a technology? Or a brand? Little lost, would appreciate a micro lecture/explanation.
    How do I determine the spindle length to use? The same buddy said that I must figure out what size spindle length I want to use before buying other things - what, I can't recall. Perhaps it was the hubs, but I'm drawing a blank.
    The pedals and headset and bars and stem... that I can figure out. I think. Any suggestions greatly appreciated, but I'll likely choose these items based on availability, price, and aesthetics.

    This thread is largely to figure out whether I'm making intelligent decisions about the build, and to figure out what it is I don't seem to understand about the bottom bracket, spindle length, and hubs. As far as I know, these items lead to other items based on their compatibility, so I need to get this right. The wheel set needs to be figured out too, so if any info on that could be provided, I'd be downright stoked. My bud likes Sun wheels. Let me know.

    I will update this thread as the parts start rolling in and the bike gets pieced together. I'll be able to order the frame set in 8 days which will get the project off the ground.

    Thanks for any input!

    First post, btw!

  2. #2
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    Does it make sense to buy an entire drivetrain set? I.E., cassette, crankset, shifters, hubs, to save $ on shipping charges if I chose to try and save money by buying individual components?
    Yes, that would probably make sense then you know it will all work together. The main thing to look out for will be ensuring you have a front derailleur type which is compatible with your frame.

    Also, there are so many bottom brackets out there... my bud told me a square tapered Octalink would give me lots of options, but I'm not sure where the compatibility part is even concerned... Is Octalink a technology? Or a brand? Little lost, would appreciate a micro lecture/explanation.
    How do I determine the spindle length to use? The same buddy said that I must figure out what size spindle length I want to use before buying other things - what, I can't recall. Perhaps it was the hubs, but I'm drawing a blank.
    Octalink is a now outdated system used by Shimano. I would avoid it like the plague. Your basic choices are to go either 'old school' with a square taper, or modern with some fork of external bearing bb. I would recommend just using Shimano SLX cranks (they come with the bb, there is no choice of BB length) if that's what the rest of your components will be.
    Yes - I do own Singular Cycles

  3. #3
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    The Surly forum would be a good place to post your KM questions.

    I have a Monkey and love mine. I run it SS with XT/Blunt wheels using a spacer kit for the freehub and a Surly cog.

    Pics are mandatory once it's complete.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info. Can a moderator move the thread? or should I repost it?

  5. #5
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    OK, seems like you've done your due dilligence and figure out what you're looking for and actually what you want and made some good choices KM in size XL/22" I'm 6'2.25", 35.25" inseam and that's what I have, you can easily tailor the fit by trying different length stems - I'd guess anywhere from maybe a 90-120mm could work, all depending on your flexibility and fitness.

    I think you've figured everything out quite well, just browse around the online shops and check here for reviews of those shops for good or bad service etc once you have found what you want. Good, noteable online shops from experience and from others are JensonUSA, Chain Reaction Cycles, Alfred E Bike, Blue Sky. Also don't rule out actual shop front stores like a local bike shop or a bigger chain like Performance or REI, they can often times have blow outs on older items that haven't sold or are just "last years models". Right now JensonUSA has a great deal on the old LX M582 external crankset for $79 - can't really beat that price and they're strong and not at all heavy (80g heavier than XT)
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  6. #6
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    Thanks LyNx! That IS quite a bargain. However, I had a 2x9 build in mind and the deal on JensonUSA is for a 3 chain ring crank set... does it make sense to buy this set and swap out the rings? I'd like to keep the bike as light as possible, but in all likelihood it will start out a lot heavier than it will ultimately end up (as my wallet bulks up... fingers crossed).

  7. #7
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    Well it more than covers the range/ratios you wanted, so if you're thinking budget I think this would be a good start. You'll get higher and lower ratios than you wanted and can truly see what you like, then if don't like the tripple you want you can buy the specific rings you want and swap them out - don't know of any current crank in that price range with the rings you're looking for. I think that the rings you were thiking of might frustrate and deter you from off roading with steep climbing where traction is limited and spinning is the only way to clean them.

    Also note Jenson price matches, so you could browse around and find the prices you want and get the to match them if you're like me and like to keep the CC info in as few places as possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    Thanks LyNx! That IS quite a bargain. However, I had a 2x9 build in mind and the deal on JensonUSA is for a 3 chain ring crank set... does it make sense to buy this set and swap out the rings? I'd like to keep the bike as light as possible, but in all likelihood it will start out a lot heavier than it will ultimately end up (as my wallet bulks up... fingers crossed).
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  8. #8
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    Just placed an order for the crankset! Thanks again

  9. #9
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    Oooops Maybe you can update/change your oder to include the LX shifters for $35, MSRP of 80 Better yet, browse all around there first before you hit submit again Don't forget you'll need the Bottom bracket tool for external cranksets.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    Just placed an order for the crankset! Thanks again
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  10. #10
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    Guy amended my order, added the LX shifters and the BB tool... and hooked it up with free shipping! $145 shipped. Pumped. I opted out of the LX front and rear derailers because I'd like to buy XT components there and don't think I'll have a problem doing so now that I've saved some serious cash on these other bits.

    Does the headset maker really make a difference? Chris King looks cool, but is there really a difference functionality, over say, Ritchey?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    Guy amended my order, added the LX shifters and the BB tool... and hooked it up with free shipping! $145 shipped. Pumped. I opted out of the LX front and rear derailers because I'd like to buy XT components there and don't think I'll have a problem doing so now that I've saved some serious cash on these other bits.

    Does the headset maker really make a difference? Chris King looks cool, but is there really a difference functionality, over say, Ritchey?
    There is a longstanding debate over how much headsets matter. I fall into the camp that feels that you reach the point of diminishing returns (on performance) once you reach the $40 pricepoint. Just about any of the mid-grade headsets from Ritchey/CaneCreek/FSA will last for years and years even if abused/neglected/unserviced. If one does happen to go bad after 8 years (or whatever) then you drop another $50 on a new headset and get another 8+ years out of it. And in all those 16 years you still would not have spent the money you would have on one King headset.

    I acknowledge, understand, yet still reject the pro-King performance argument. King does allow you to option of cutesy color coordinated bling if basic black doesn't do it for you.

  12. #12
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    Headset

    I figured it was a color coordination thing. Thanks

  13. #13
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    Cane Creek S3 headset is around $35, workes excellent and lasts. If you want colour you'll have to pay more. I have both CC S3 headsets in both black & silver and the more expensive Hope headset in Red ano and honestly, can't tell the difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    Guy amended my order, added the LX shifters and the BB tool... and hooked it up with free shipping! $145 shipped. Pumped. I opted out of the LX front and rear derailers because I'd like to buy XT components there and don't think I'll have a problem doing so now that I've saved some serious cash on these other bits.

    Does the headset maker really make a difference? Chris King looks cool, but is there really a difference functionality, over say, Ritchey?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  14. #14
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    The S3 has worked well for me.

    All the advice so far is solid and you're on the right track.

    You don't need to move your post to the Surly forum. I merely suggested it for the "fit" questions.

  15. #15
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    First Update

    The crankset, BB tool, and shifters came today... W00t!! This bike is really happening now, I almost can't believe it. I'm ordering the frameset on Friday if everything goes as planned, and possibly a brakeset + cables as well.

    This is my last chance to change the frame size before I order it. I realize that without riding one it will be impossible to know for sure, but I can certainly make an educated guess based on my measurements and the information provided about the frame. As of now, only the 22" is available for the Karate Monkey in Battleship Grey. I believe the Black can be had in any size ATM, but if I had my way, I'd go Grey. I am willing to wait to buy the frame if it means that I can get the size I need, but at this point I'm fairly certain the 22" is the closest thing to the right fit.

    I've attached my measurements based on competitivecyclists fit calculator as well as a link to the specs on the frame sizes of the KM from Surly's website. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    http://surlybikes.com/frames/karate_monkey_frame/
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails First bike in 10 years or more-crankset-bb-tool-shifters.jpg  

    First bike in 10 years or more-screen-shot-2011-01-05-6.46.55-pm.png  


  16. #16
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    very cool!!! I am doing the same thing except 90% of my components are used from the forum, craigslist, ebay. I am building up a On-One Inbred 29er with similar components. I got my headset and tires today (thanks BikeNY) and once I saw the tires I was at the same place you are, this isn't just a pile of components, one more thing and it will turn into a fully fledged bike!!!

  17. #17
    Jacob 34:19
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    Looks like things are coming together Sam. Good on you.

    I'm 6'2" and rode a 20" KM. The fit was really good if not just a touch cramped. I have a longer inseam than you by about a .25" so I think you'd be pretty cramped on the 20". The 22" should fit you really well. On a 29er, I also prefer a slightly longer TT and shorter stem. It's not for everyone but works for me.

    You're right on the mark with BB7's. I've had them on 4 different bikes (including my KM) and they've been the most trouble free, dependable brakes I've ever used. Decent levers and cables will make a big difference. I like the SL levers and Jagwire Ripstop cables. Don't waste your money on the Ultimate levers.

    Last thing, don't skimp on the wheels. A good set of hand built wheels can really make a difference; and they don't have to be expensive. A good wheel builder will take into account your weight, riding style, and types of terrain you'll be riding and be able to suggest something for you at a reasonable price. I've used mikesee from lacemine29 and Ben Witt from Milltown Cycles. I'm sure others will suggest their favorite builders as well.

    Be sure to post some pics of the finished product!

  18. #18
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    Last thing, don't skimp on the wheels. A good set of hand built wheels can really make a difference; and they don't have to be expensive. A good wheel builder will take into account your weight, riding style, and types of terrain you'll be riding and be able to suggest something for you at a reasonable price. I've used mikesee from lacemine29 and Ben Witt from Milltown Cycles. I'm sure others will suggest their favorite builders as well.
    Thanks for the heads up. My bud with the frameset hook up is into building wheels, but, if I didn't mention it before, is a classic roadie fan, and I will probably want to go pro with this type of work anyway.

    He did however suggest Sun Rhyno Lites, which, based on what I've read, are very durable. I like the sound of that. However, I'd like to keep this bike in the sub 28lb range (lighter if possible!) and I know a lot of weight can be lost or gained in wheel choice.

    Thanks for the info on the brakes, too. I was going to get the SL's - glad someone else could chime in on that.

    Gregnash - Post some pics when it's done!

  19. #19
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    Again I'll say, get the damn XL/22" They lowered the stand over now with a sloping TT, so clearance won't be an issue for you. Of all my bikes the KM is the smallest XL I have and I need to run a 110-120mm stem on it to get back the same cockpit as my other bikes and depending on what/where I'll be riding it - road or trail - although I think it's now been totally and officially put to road duty - old back just can't take full rigid on the trails Play with the stem lengths and find the fit you like, but I'd guess anywhere from maybe 90-120mm would work - just an FYI, didn't remember, but Jenson had a load of take off Canondale stems for under $10 each, so a cheap way to buy and try and loose much.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    Gregnash - Post some pics when it's done!
    Won't threadjack you but here is the link to my build!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    The last bike I had was a little blue mongoose, a 26" 21-speed, and it was a blast. It was stolen a million years ago, out of the garage. I liked it. Piece of crap, but it was mine. Now, nursing a broken foot, I've decided I want to ride again.
    I used my dad's bike over the past 5 years or so, a helluva thing, all titanium and xtr... but it's a rather small bike for me at 6'3" (my dad 5'9") and I don't want to risk injury to myself, nor cruise around like a hobbit, any longer. I'd been thinking about putting a bike together for a while now - being grounded with the broken foot has got me itching worse than ever.
    SO - I knew from the get go that I wanted to build a chromoly 29er. I'm trying to build a do-all bike, with a MTB heart. With 29" wheels I figure cruising around town on asphalt should be a breeze, and hitting the trails, a ball. The steel - tough but forgiving ride, as I don't intend to utilize a front suspension fork. Hard all the way round.
    I'd like to keep the price of the complete bike somewhere in the arena of $1200. This is just a well rounded figure that sounded good in my head, based on the frames I was considering, and the drivetrain, brakes, components, etc.
    I like the 4130 offered by Salsa/Surly, so I looked at the El Mariachi and the Karate Monkey, ultimately deciding on the KM because of the price difference. I couldn't find one anywhere to sit on in person, so I'm hoping the 22" (XL) will fit nicely, being aforementioned 6'3", 35" inseam, all that. From what I've read, a 20" or a 22" could fit, depending more on riding style as opposed to dimensions. Please correct me on that if you feel differently or know about the KM specifically. Obviously it would be best to sit on one, but I'm not sure that will be doable. A friend of mine is in a bike frame welding class and has access to major discounts on some companies/frames, Surly being one of them. This was total coincidence, as I learned this before deciding on the frame. I'm stuck with the 22" because it is the only size available through these means. Not worried.
    The rest of the bike then. I'd like disc brakes. I'm sure there's much to say in this arena, but based on the amount I'd like to spend, I think mechanicals, specifically 185mm (Front/Rear) BB7s should suffice for at least as long as I don't know any better. Also, I like the idea of low maintenance and good modulation. Again, correct me if off base at any point.
    The drivetrain will ideally be a 2x9 setup, with an 11-34t cassette, and 28-42 chainrings. If you can think of a better combination of gears, do tell. Obviously, I wont even be able to give this bike a proper thrashing for a while, so attempting to describe my physical ability is rather futile ATM. If it means anything though, when I wasn't broken, I had some good power in my legs. Backpacker/hiker, but I realize the motions in hiking and biking are different. It's hard to say how well I could ride my dad's bike, because it was so small and I wasn't able to utilize my strength well. As for the shifters and the rest of the crankset, I would like to use, at minimum Shimano SLX level components. But if I could get my hands on XT for the right price (or its equivalent SRAM, what have you), I would.
    Does it make sense to buy an entire drivetrain set? I.E., cassette, crankset, shifters, hubs, to save $ on shipping charges if I chose to try and save money by buying individual components? Also, there are so many bottom brackets out there... my bud told me a square tapered Octalink would give me lots of options, but I'm not sure where the compatibility part is even concerned... Is Octalink a technology? Or a brand? Little lost, would appreciate a micro lecture/explanation.
    How do I determine the spindle length to use? The same buddy said that I must figure out what size spindle length I want to use before buying other things - what, I can't recall. Perhaps it was the hubs, but I'm drawing a blank.
    The pedals and headset and bars and stem... that I can figure out. I think. Any suggestions greatly appreciated, but I'll likely choose these items based on availability, price, and aesthetics.

    This thread is largely to figure out whether I'm making intelligent decisions about the build, and to figure out what it is I don't seem to understand about the bottom bracket, spindle length, and hubs. As far as I know, these items lead to other items based on their compatibility, so I need to get this right. The wheel set needs to be figured out too, so if any info on that could be provided, I'd be downright stoked. My bud likes Sun wheels. Let me know.

    I will update this thread as the parts start rolling in and the bike gets pieced together. I'll be able to order the frame set in 8 days which will get the project off the ground.

    Thanks for any input!

    First post, btw!

    Salsa Fargo!!!

  22. #22
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    I keep thinking I could have done this whole thing cheaper by buying a complete bike... Oh well. Couldn't ride it for a long time anyway. I guess that's how this whole "build it" thing started.

  23. #23
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    The kit bits I'm ordering next will be drivetrain/brakes related. In terms of the R/D, I've been reading lots about cage lengths - running a fully geared 3X9 setup, should I buy a "long cage"? I'd like to spend some dough on XT. I'll have extra ground clearance with 29" wheels, so I'm assuming smacking into rocks and roots and things wont be as big of an issue as it would with otherwise smaller wheels. Also, which is most compatible with the M580 LX shifters, the M771, or the M772? I guess one is "rapid-rise" and the other is "top-normal"? I've done some research, but I'd like to know for sure before I purchase anything.

    Also, anyone feel like mating LX shifters to XT R/D is a waste? I've read that the shifters are the brains of the operation, so I wonder what benefit I will get with the XT back there.

    Ordering the frame set on Wednesday, btw.

    Thanks folks!

  24. #24
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    For RD cage length, YES, if you're going to be running full 3x9 then get the long cage RD.

    On Rapid Rise vs Normal, I prefer RR myself since my thumbs aren't the best and how they shift works to keep them from working too hard. In case you don't know, on older RDs if you pulled the little trigger it shifted to a harder gear (smaller cog) and if you pushed the thumb/bigger lever it shifter to an easier gear (larger cog). Now with RR if you pull the little trigger it shifts to an easier gear (larger cog) and if you push the big thumb lever it goes to a harder gear (smaller cog), so now both shifters work the same way. With the newer shifters use can either push or pull the little trigger to shift. Simplified more, with out the derailleur having a cable on it the RR RD will shift to the biggest cog and the normal will shift to the smallest.

    As to if it's a waste to mate LX shifters to XT RD I hope not, because that's my exact setup, including the LX cranks right now and it seems to work fine for me. Used to have full XT, but the crankset suffered some damage so was retired to my commuter/rigid and the deal on those LX cranks was too good to pass up and then a guy who's bike I fixed had the LX shifters and gave them to me for work and they've worked sweet for me. BTW I find that those M580 shifters work as good, if not better than the old XT M750s I had (also now on the commuter/rigid).

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    The kit bits I'm ordering next will be drivetrain/brakes related. In terms of the R/D, I've been reading lots about cage lengths - running a fully geared 3X9 setup, should I buy a "long cage"? I'd like to spend some dough on XT. I'll have extra ground clearance with 29" wheels, so I'm assuming smacking into rocks and roots and things wont be as big of an issue as it would with otherwise smaller wheels. Also, which is most compatible with the M580 LX shifters, the M771, or the M772? I guess one is "rapid-rise" and the other is "top-normal"? I've done some research, but I'd like to know for sure before I purchase anything.

    Also, anyone feel like mating LX shifters to XT R/D is a waste? I've read that the shifters are the brains of the operation, so I wonder what benefit I will get with the XT back there.

    Ordering the frame set on Wednesday, btw.

    Thanks folks!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  25. #25
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    Good to hear it LyNx. The shifters on my dad's bike are the old design which I rather liked even though they were different on either side. Something about pulling the trigger to upshift feels right.

  26. #26
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    I have heard that there really is not a HUGE benefit to going with the higher end shifters. I specifically went with my X9 shifters instead of X7 because SRAM has a loss-less system built into their shifting that helps the efficiency (at least that is how I understand it). Is there a huge noticeable difference, truly dont know yet as the bike is not done. I got a great deal on my X9's so that was really the only reason that I went with them over the less X7 (will be controlling X9 long cage RD and XT FD).

  27. #27
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    I'm working on getting a wheel set. I was determined to buy rims, hubs, spokes, and nipples and put it together myself, maybe have my LBS true it up proper when I'd got it as good as I was gonna get it, but now I'm reconsidering.

    I don't have a trueing stand, or even a frame to do it it. (Should be here inside two and a half weeks).

    Then I found this: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Wheelset.aspx

    The only thing that's kept me from buying this wheelset already has been the fact that it's 32h. I'm not a big guy for my height, but at ~190lbs, I'm no pee-wee. Compounding the fact that I will not be running a suspension fork on this bike, is 32h going to cut it?

    Instead of these, I've planned the 36h Rhyno Lites with the M525s or even an XT M756 rear Hub with the deore in front. Universal Cycles quoted the wheels at $202.

    You think the 36h wheels are worth the extra $75?

    I also sent a query to Lacemine29 (thanks jAKEtheDOG), and told him my budget was MAX $250, among other things.


    Also - in regards to brake levers. I gather they are important in making mechanical brakes feel just right. Are the Avid Speed Dial SLs any better than, say, the Speed Dial 7s? They are $40 more, so I would imagine they are in some way, but both appear to be equally adjustable. Is it just a weight issue?

    Thanks chaps.

  28. #28
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    Go check out the wheels from BWW, they have quite a few nice wheels under your $250 budget http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...r-/cat_41.html
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  29. #29
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    Looks like I am about your size and talking with MikeSee and Orion_Cycles, neither of them have mentioned 32h rims not being suitable for me (I am 6' and about 195#). However, you will probably want to spend a bit more money on the Hubs vs. the rims. With the fact that this will be going on a 29er, plus the added torque you bring as a "clyde" you will want a stronger rear hub. The XT rear hubs have been having a lot of issues lately with the freehub bodies blowing up. I would keep an eye on this and possibly upgrade to M529 or M629 hubs. Take a look at Universal Cycles Wheelbuilder side as you can build a set of SpeedDisc Rims/M629 hubs/DTSwiss Spokes & Nips for right around $200 then have $40 in shipping charges. Only reason I am not going that route is because I am working with Orion_Cycles.

  30. #30
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    Thanks for the replies. If 32h isn't as important as hub choice, then I think I'll just buy those Rhyno Lites with the M529s from the link I posted. An incredible deal and well within my budget.

    I got a reply from Mike and he said typically his builds start at, well, over $100 more than my projected maximum budget. Yikes!

  31. #31
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    Yeah when I talked to him I got the same response... However, from the people I have talked to about his wheelsets, they are indestructible! Not one person has a complaint about them or even had to get them trued.

    One thing to watch for is that the M529 hubs are only 18 POE (I believe) so while not low they are not the best in the world. By stepping up the M629 (or even the new SLX 665 hubs) you move up to 32 POE. Which, depending on your riding, can make some difference.

  32. #32
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    POE? point of exertion? I bought the wheels with the M529s. I figure if they aren't as tough as i'd hoped, I can always upgrade the hubs at a later date and still keep this whole thing cost effective.

  33. #33
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    Points of Engagement - in other words how far you have to move the crank before it engages the next ratchets/pawls on the hub again. So with an 18pt hub it'd be roughly 20*.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    POE? point of exertion? I bought the wheels with the M529s. I figure if they aren't as tough as i'd hoped, I can always upgrade the hubs at a later date and still keep this whole thing cost effective.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  34. #34
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    Ah, I see. As long as resilience isn't a factor I'm happy.

  35. #35
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    I guess I'll find out soon enough whether I bought some decent wheels or not. Frame is coming in less than two weeks. In the mean time, here are the latest goodies I've bought.

    As far as tires go, I've got a few in mind.

    Schwalbe Big Apple 2" or 2.35"
    Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700/38-45c
    Vittoria Randonneur Cross Pro
    Continental TourRIDE
    Continental Top Contact
    Continental Cyclocross
    Continental Race King
    WTB Nano Raptor

    I realize I've got everything from commuter tire to mountain. Weighing my options. As of now, the people I will likely be biking with ride road/commuter type bikes. So I want to be able to:

    a.) keep up
    b.) not wreck knobbies because I'm riding on tarmac 80% of the time
    c.) be able to rock the road and the dirt/gravel if necessary.

    In all likelihood I will see far more road/hardpack than anything else, and that's fine. But, for all I know I will find some trails that require some serious teeth and I'll be rolling around on grocery-getters.

    Any recommendations among the aforementioned, or even some that I don't have there? Would like to spend <$40/tire. Not opposed to a staggered set up. I would like to go tubeless. Are all of these tubeless capable? Perhaps capable isn't the right term. Would any of these tires benefit from a tubeless set up? Also, is there a specific type of bead to look for when going tubeless?

    Thanks peeps
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  36. #36
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    Well here's my thoughts on your list...if it were me if I went for a Schwalbe, it would be the Marathon CROSS version, not the plus as it'll give you enough bite to do some decent trails and still roll very well on road - had them in 26" form, they worked real well for road and excellent for their tread off road. Other than that, only other tyre in your list I'd consider is the WTB Nano, works fantastically well on road when pumped up to 65 PSI and works very well on trails once there's not a lot of sandy corners.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    I guess I'll find out soon enough whether I bought some decent wheels or not. Frame is coming in less than two weeks. In the mean time, here are the latest goodies I've bought.

    As far as tires go, I've got a few in mind.

    Schwalbe Big Apple 2" or 2.35"
    Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700/38-45c
    Vittoria Randonneur Cross Pro
    Continental TourRIDE
    Continental Top Contact
    Continental Cyclocross
    Continental Race King
    WTB Nano Raptor

    I realize I've got everything from commuter tire to mountain. Weighing my options. As of now, the people I will likely be biking with ride road/commuter type bikes. So I want to be able to:

    a.) keep up
    b.) not wreck knobbies because I'm riding on tarmac 80% of the time
    c.) be able to rock the road and the dirt/gravel if necessary.

    In all likelihood I will see far more road/hardpack than anything else, and that's fine. But, for all I know I will find some trails that require some serious teeth and I'll be rolling around on grocery-getters.

    Any recommendations among the aforementioned, or even some that I don't have there? ..............................
    Last edited by LyNx; 01-23-2011 at 08:42 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  37. #37
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    http://www.notubes.com/product_info....products_id/35

    Is this the kit I need for 29" Rhyno Lites? Width of the rim strip is same as the "rhyno lite" kit for 26". Wanna double check before I buy.

  38. #38
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    Look at the homebrew thread and you can combine a homebrew latex sealant that will work as good as the Stans. Also, do some research on youtube about "Ghetto Tubeless" or "Gorilla Tape Tubless" setups and you will get some interesting ideas!

    Glad to see this is coming together for you. My hope is that I will have mine finalized by end of Feb for her maiden voyage!

  39. #39
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    the latest

    Got my saddle and cassette yesterday. The saddle is a WTB Pure V Cromo and the Cassette is XT 770. Got great deals on both! Saddle was $40 shipped from Amazon, to which I had a gift certificate anyway, and the cassette $66 shipped direct from Taiwan! I thought it would have been on a boat for a couple weeks, but it was here within 4 or 5 days.

    In the mail:

    Lizard Skins Peatey black/graphite clamps <$23 shipped
    Cane Creek direct curve levers $32?
    Jagwire Ripcord brake kit $30ish
    SRAM Chain (PG951)? - something like that $22? something like that
    (2) WTB Nano Race (Aramid bead) $32/per!

    Update on the frame/fork.... I was under the impression that it would have been ordered and ready for pickup as of last night.... it wasn't. But, I have been assured that it will be here next Wednesday. For real this time. So, good. The place has a headset press so I'll bring the S-3 and get things started.

    Still need to buy:
    -Tubes or No Tubes Sealant Kit (haven't made up my mind)
    -Rear derailleur. I wanted the XT 771, but considering the 772 Shadow. Any thoughts? Lots of places are out of the 771 now.
    -Shifter cables/housing
    -Bars: Thinking Easton or Salsa or Ritchey, but don't want to spend more than $50. Less if possible. Like the Easton Monkeylite Low Rise Carbon bar, but it's a tad thin, and too flashy for my tastes. The equivalent Salsa is too much cash for me right now. Probably end up with a Salsa promoto. Any suggestions?
    -Stem: Salsa? whichever fits/matches the bar I end up getting. Again, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    -Seatpost: My buddy who's hooking up the frame said someone was selling a cheap Kalloy seatpost at the spot, so I'm considering that.

    Other than that, maybe some bar-ends. I like climbers.

    Nearly out of this walking cast, too! I hit the stationary bike yesterday, everything felt ok. Little pain in the forefoot, but that's to be expected. W00t!
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  40. #40
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    Peatys came too!
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  41. #41
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    go with this chain, better than 951 and cheaper PC-971

  42. #42
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    I would get a cheapo stem and bar until you figure out what size fits you. No use spending a lot of money on stem/bars and then figure out that its the wrong size. The fit on a 29er is going to be different than a 26er. On my 26er I always use riser bars with a 1 inch rise. On my 29er the bar was way too high and I had to change it to a flat bar.

  43. #43
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    Greg, chain is bought - maybe I can pawn it off.
    Puck, that's probably a good idea. Being pretty tall, I'm assuming a riser bar will fit better than a flat, but we'll see

  44. #44
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    No worries dude. That chain isnt bad just a bit heavier than the PC971. From my research the 971/991 shift better, are lighter, thinner, and more durable than the lower models. But hey if it works it works.

  45. #45
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    how does one delete a post? This one in particular.
    Last edited by Sam Goldenberg; 02-04-2011 at 04:16 AM.

  46. #46
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    Good news...

    I'm walking on my own!!

    Doc recommended cycling, swimming, etc. Yay!

  47. #47
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    LOL... probably means cycling on flat land... mountain biking might not quite be in that description!! Good to hear you are back up and going dude... Bicycling magazine had a great article on power foods that help with mending bones and tissue... Might be worth while to pick it up and try some of the stuff to help speed your recovery. If nothing else, at least flat land will get you time in the saddle to get your fit right.

  48. #48
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    I was thinking stationary until the bike is together, then tarmac, then dirt. I'll check out the mag, too.

  49. #49
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    Well if you hurry up and finish the bike you can get a "trainer" and make it a stationary bike. This will give you some time to mess with the fit, then you can focus on the road once you are well enough. First set of dirt I would find some nice fire roads to climb!

  50. #50
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    Im looking forward to seeing this thing.

  51. #51
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    UPDATE

    Got the frameset today. Pressed the headset and screwed in the BB. Tomorrow I'm going to cut the steerer tube and slap in the crankset, maybe some other shite if I can remember to bring all the right gear to the shop.

    W00t!

    I'll post pics when the sucker's complete and the grin on my face is so wide it isn't entirely contained by my face.

  52. #52
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    Don't go rushing to cut that steerer tube, set it up roughly to how you currently like your saddle to bar drop and then leave AT LEAST an inch more ontop the stem, then ride it for a week or two. You might find out that with the Monkey you might not need you bars as low or want to try something different, just know that rushing to cut steerer tubes is not a good idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Goldenberg
    UPDATE

    Got the frameset today. Pressed the headset and screwed in the BB. Tomorrow I'm going to cut the steerer tube and slap in the crankset, maybe some other shite if I can remember to bring all the right gear to the shop.

    W00t!

    I'll post pics when the sucker's complete and the grin on my face is so wide it isn't entirely contained by my face.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  53. #53
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    UPDATE!

    Bike should be complete by Monday. I damn near had it all together when I found a minute amount of rust underneath the gusset, in the corner by the head tube. I was furious. I wanted to send it back to the manufacturer. Surly informed me that, as I had assumed, that particular area on the frame is not painted. They assured me it was going to be the same if I returned the frame and got a new one. So, I got some steel wool, wrapped it around a cuticle stick, scraped it down, and rubbed it down with a petroleum product to seal and protect the area. Perhaps I'll splash some touch up paint in there at some point.

    I took it apart to do this, and while I had the naked frame, I poured some Linseed oil in a spray bottle and sprayed it down into the seat tube, let it dry overnight. What the hell, couldn't hurt. Then, I put back together what I could from home, and decided to bring it to my LBS and have them do the rest. Very reasonable quote, said they should do it by Monday. SO PUMPED. Of course, there will be photos. I've been training on a stationary for a while now. Leg strength and cadence are better than ever. Ready to shred.

    YEah!

  54. #54
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    That is awesome to hear dude!! I got out for the first real ride this week on mine with the local Lunch Crew and she performed like a champ!! Even had my first wreck and ripped my shin/ankle up pretty good (damn those pegs on my pedals are sharp). Bike definitely climbs better than I do and is performing beautifully. I was able to pick up a new, unused WTB Moto Rapter Race 2.1 for $14 off Ebay recently so I changed that out today. Spinning up the ChoirMasters was just a ***** and they liked to break loose in loomy, and loose stuff in the back. Anyways, here is to hoping you can get out on yours soon!

  55. #55
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    where in the hell is the thumbs up button. ohh this is not facebook.

  56. #56
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    well

    I'm limping along with the whole "post pictures of progress on the web" stuff, but as promised, here's a picture. I'll toss some more up here, hopefully some action shots or some video. The initial stem I bought was too long and low and as a result I was experiencing terrible neck pain. So, after putting myself through a week's worth of pain (albeit fun), I ordered a shorter, steeper one. When it came in, I zoomed home to put it on, only to find that my rear tire was flat! Upon further inspection, I found what looked like a dagger-shaped pistachio shell fragment protruding from the tread. GAhh!!!1 So I got that sucker out, bought a back up tube, patched the one that was in there, and put a doller bill in between the tube and the tire (I'm told the fibers'll stop it up good, if need be - that, and I'll have an emergency dollar) and boom, kapow, yeehaw, off I went to the hills.

    I think you would describe the trail as a fire trail. Terrain varies from hard-packed dirt (with these horrible drainage ditch/trench things), wet leaves, mut, wood chips, and loose gravel. The whole sha-bang-a-bang! Everything about the ride was fun and I got a great workout for the ole recovering left foot, but my GOD my brakes will not stop shrieking. It's real bad when I pull on the levers, but much worse when I'm doing nothing at all. The rotor is rubbing the pad ever so slightly, so that it's making this "moist finger round the rim of a crystal glass" noise. I was surprised that all the dogs weren't freaking out. I've tried everything from inboard and outboard adjustments, which can help the second noise, but sacrifice LOTS of power (and warp the rotor) to cleaning the rotors and pads, etc. At this point I'm thinking of replacing the front pad with an organic pad. It's just the front that makes the noise. The rear is fine. A little metallic noise every once in a while, but nothing terrible, let alone irritating.

    At the end of the day, the steel is real. For REAL.
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  57. #57
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    Looking good, turned out very nice, glad you're enjoying it

    If you don't mind me asking, how old are you? Have to ask as with the current setup your bars are a bit above the saddle which would normally be indicative of an older person with back issue or a younger person with back issues, or someone who's core is not strong enough to support them bent over.

    Also, saddle height looks low for someone 6'3" with a 35" inseam, to me actually looks very low and that's going by my own setup with same 35.25" inseam - rough photoshop comparison and the top of your saddle is where the bottom of mine is, so about nearly 2". Did you have the saddle lowered for techinical bits, or is this the normal height. Are you having an issues climbing with the current setup?

    As to the BB7s, they're pretty straight forward to setup and once the rotors aren't warped/bent they're normally fairly silent. Did you use the Yout Tube video off the Avid page as your guide when setting them up? If you go by their setup there's normally no issues. I run sinistered pads and don't have any issues, have also run organic, but they wear way too fast but have less tendancy for noise.

    Have attached a pic of my old version XL. Top of saddle to center of BB is 32.5", with flats your saddle would be a bit lower since you don't have the height gain from the clipless pedals.
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  58. #58
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    Lynx: I went out to the garage last night to look things over after the ride and, next to my Dad's bike, I realized that my bars were much higher than the way I liked to ride his. And yes, the seat was a bit lower for a fairly technical, albeit wide trail from yesterday. I'm 23 and yes, I have experienced back pain in the past, but I've been practicing yoga and weight training for a while now and have it under control for the most part. I'm in relatively good shape, I used to rock climb a fair amount, but haven't done that in ages due to the foot incident. Flat feet and subsequent knee pain have been my "achilles," and a higher seat usually remedies that.

    Basically, I'm going to go re orient my bars/seat post. The saddle is dipped back a little, too, I might try to make it a little flatter. More pics to come. Higher definition, I promise.

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