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  1. #401
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    I am looking at these two bikes as well, the Ripley is quite a bit more expensive than the Atlas, but what is really apparent from your specs is the difference in CS length (445 v 428)

    I'm not able to demo until things thaw out/dry out, so can anyone offer up ridng experience for the two bikes?

    Right now I have a KHS 6500, it has a bit more suspension than I need (140mm) and it tends to loft the front end more than I like; perhaps its a small wheel (650) thing...

    I want to move back to 29ers for trail riding, I just prefer the big hoops. I rode hardtail 29ers for years, my current favorite is the Kona Honzo.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I meant effective, have a look at post #183, seems there's still some info that's up in the air. In any case I'll measure mine and post up the result once I get it all built up

    ---

    Copied this off a local board, compares the Atlas geo to the Ripley which is the other bike I was looking at. Appears pretty close with 140mm forks which the geo is based on.

    Small:
    Atlas Carbon w/140mm

    Seattube: 460
    Seat angle: 70 / 70.7
    Head angle: 68.5 / 69.1
    Toptube: 597
    Chainstay: 428
    Wheelbase: 1088
    Bottombracket height: 345 / 352
    Headtube: 110
    Standover height: 752

    Reach: 385 / 392
    Stack: 619 / 615

    Medium:
    Ripley w/140mm:

    Seattube: 432
    Seat angle: 71.5
    Head angle: 68.5
    Toptube: 589
    Chainstay: 445
    Wheelbase: 1111
    Bottombracket height: 337
    Headtube: 94
    Standover height: 750

    Reach: 381
    Stack: 626

  2. #402
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    It doesn't have to do with the wheelsize, you just aren't getting enough weight over the front wheel. Changing to a longer stem or one with a negative angle might help.

    That being said, if you don't like it when the front lifts during climbs, chances are you'd be better off with a longer chainstay since that puts the rear further back and decreases the likelyhood of lift at the front. Assuming you have a decent fit on the bike and skills to match.

    Personally I've ridden both and went with the Atlas due to the playful chainstay length similar to my Honzo and lifetime warranty. I usually stand and mash to get up anything so lift doesn't play a role since I use my upper torso to weigh the wheel down.

  3. #403
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    Were you relying to my post?

    It's not a stem thing, been there, done that, even went down a frame size to see if a tighter cockpit would allow me to get more forward.

    Essentially, the KHS rides light in thent even when seated. A longer CS would help, as would a larger wheel. My Honzo was not a problem, and it has short chainstays, but I kinda wonder if the Atlas would be a problem... I guess I won't know until I ride it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    It doesn't have to do with the wheelsize, you just aren't getting enough weight over the front wheel. Changing to a longer stem or one with a negative angle might help.

    That being said, if you don't like it when the front lifts during climbs, chances are you'd be better off with a longer chainstay since that puts the rear further back and decreases the likelyhood of lift at the front. Assuming you have a decent fit on the bike and skills to match.

    Personally I've ridden both and went with the Atlas due to the playful chainstay length similar to my Honzo and lifetime warranty. I usually stand and mash to get up anything so lift doesn't play a role since I use my upper torso to weigh the wheel down.

  4. #404
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    Pic from my turnaround point on today's Christmas ride: 15.1 miles at Dana Peak Park in Central Texas. Dana Peak is an excellent out-and-back with its fair share of smooth single-track, a few challenging sections, and some excellent rollers.

    Love this bike. A few rides on since the first, the only problems I'm having on climbs are on sections I wouldn't have dreamed of cleaning on my old 26" Santa Cruz Blur. The 2.25 Maxxis Ardent EXO on the wide-rimmed SUNringle Charger Pro SL at just shy of 25 psi grip the trail like crazy. The stiff wheels combined with the excellent maneuverability of the frame make this bike extremely predictable.

    Over the last week I've dialed in the shock and fork. On the pedal setting, it will sprint or climb without bobbing noticeably. The 120mm SID RCT3 fork gets the job done. There are stiffer, better damped forks out there, but the terrain here in Texas just isn't worth paying the weight penalty of a Pike of longer-travel Fox. The SID keeps the weight down enough to allows me to run the slightly heavier wheel/tire combo. I also have an RWC rear shock needle bearing on hand that I need to install.

    Got to say, this thread led me to this bike, and I couldn't be happier.

  5. #405
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    One interesting tidbit is that the bike is so slack with a 140mm that the dropperpost I have had issues dropping. Have to re-position my bodyweight to get it done

    Perhaps it'll better when I get my KS Lev and drop the fork to 130.

  6. #406
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    I am considering an Atlas. The bike you guys describe is the kind of bike I am looking for.
    I am an old guy, with a 53 year old back. My 12 yo boy is getting into mountain biking, so it is a good excuse to get a new MTB.

    2 questions:
    1. I am 5'8"ish, 72" wingspan, 30" inseam. I have relatively long thighs and short lower legs. My road bike has a ETT of 55cm with a 100 mm stem. What size Atlas should I get? and what size stem?
    2. My 20 year old bike has an early gen SID (noodle) with something like 63mm of travel. I am not going to be hucking or dropping or going after big chunks. Will 100mm suit me or would I be happier with 120mm? Background is that I am an XC rider, but I am not going to be racing, that being said, I like a light playful, quick bike.
    jws

  7. #407
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    I'd say take the 120 - I recently changed mine from 100mm and the plush ride is too good to go back! Plus changed geo etc

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Dubya61 View Post
    1. I am 5'8"ish, 72" wingspan, 30" inseam. I have relatively long thighs and short lower legs. My road bike has a ETT of 55cm with a 100 mm stem. What size Atlas should I get? and what size stem?
    Just from looking at the numbers, probably a small; but the Atlas has rather odd sizing so if you could try before you buy that would obviously be best.

    I'm 5'7 with a 30" inseam and the reach is perfect for me on the Atlas carbon (Carbon is longer than the aluminum), but the seattube on the small is very high. On other bikes I normally get the medium, but with the Atlas there's no way I could have made it work.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Just from looking at the numbers, probably a small; but the Atlas has rather odd sizing so if you could try before you buy that would obviously be best.

    I'm 5'7 with a 30" inseam and the reach is perfect for me on the Atlas carbon (Carbon is longer than the aluminum), but the seattube on the small is very high. On other bikes I normally get the medium, but with the Atlas there's no way I could have made it work.
    Vegard, do you ride a road bike, if so, what is the ETT, and stem length?

    My concern is the reach measurement. While the ETT are within range the reach measurement is quite short. Historically I have ridden long top tube bikes or one size up than my inseam and overall height suggests. However, I am 53yo, and I am not getting any more flexible. I suspect I will like the slack seat tube, but cannot be sure. If not I can compensate with a no offset seat post. The nearest dealer is 120 miles away.

    I rode rigid back in the days when we were riding 135 - 150 stems.
    What is the longest stem recommended for a 29er FS? The small size intrigues me, but I don't want to be endo-ing. With the short rear end, it may help to better distribute weight between the wheels(?). Is endo-ing less of a problem with 29ers? Would a longer stem provide improved front end grip?

  10. #410
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    I just measured my current 26er MTB (~17 yo). My ETT (~56cm) plus stem length (~12cm) come to ~68cm, my seat is slammed back as far as it can go (more a function of SA, not sure of the angle, it is a Litespeed softtail, probably in the conventional range). My bars are approximately 1" - 1 1/4" below the top of my saddle. I have always wished that I would have gone with a size up to have more room in the cockpit.

    Another question, is anybody using a 51 offset fork with the Atlas?

  11. #411
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    I stay well clear of the road, if you want to make more sense of modern MTB sizes you'll need to use stack and reach measurements. I really doubt that you'll be able to ride anything larger than the small with it's 23" toptube. You'd probably need a 70mm or shorter stem for even that to work out properly.

    A longer stem will improve grip for the front wheel on any bike since it allows for more weight over the axle. Personally I use a 23" toptube and a 50mm stem with 700mm bars, if I get lift it's usually so steep that I'll need to adjust technique anyways.

    I'll be using a 51mm offset pike on mine when it's 100% done. It's more a case of using what I have rather than it being optimal.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I stay well clear of the road, if you want to make more sense of modern MTB sizes you'll need to use stack and reach measurements. I really doubt that you'll be able to ride anything larger than the small with it's 23" toptube. You'd probably need a 70mm or shorter stem for even that to work out properly.

    A longer stem will improve grip for the front wheel on any bike since it allows for more weight over the axle. Personally I use a 23" toptube and a 50mm stem with 700mm bars, if I get lift it's usually so steep that I'll need to adjust technique anyways.

    I'll be using a 51mm offset pike on mine when it's 100% done. It's more a case of using what I have rather than it being optimal.
    If I am doing the math right, and assuming the cockpit measurements are transferable 26er to 29er, I am currently at a cockpit length of 680mm = ETT plus stem.
    so:
    Small 584mm(Al) 590mm(C) + 95 - 90 stem ~= 680mm
    Med 604mm(Al) 610mm(C) + 75 - 70 stem ~= 680mm

    ???

  13. #413
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    Which brings up the idea of a 51 offset fork, if I go with the smaller size, and 51 offset will provide a bit more front to center. It seems to me that the HA is about what the 51 offset bikes are running....

    Thoughts?
    jW

  14. #414
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    2015 Atlas Carbon Build

    Saw this thread and thought I would share a pic of my Atlas Carbon. Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_5476.jpg

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Dubya61 View Post
    Which brings up the idea of a 51 offset fork, if I go with the smaller size, and 51 offset will provide a bit more front to center. It seems to me that the HA is about what the 51 offset bikes are running....

    Thoughts?
    jW
    My thought is please check everything with the stack & reach measurements. Top tube length is a very disturbing measurement with the slack STA of the Atlas. Also, the sizing table on the Devinci website is a good guide. Use that as a double check! If you think you need a different size to what Devinci advises, do the math again.

    My guess is that you should take the bigger bike. Practically all bikes have steeper STA's than the Atlas. That means there is a solid chance the entire ETT of your current bike is further forward in relationship to the BB. By a lot.
    I'd allways advise to put your saddle in the same place in relationship to the BB. It puts your legs and lower body in the position you are used to.
    If you do not do this on the Atlas, you're effectively rotating yourself backwards around the BB. That's all well and good, but I'd rather not let bike geometry dictate how I sit on the bike. I want the same position regardless of the bike! Saddle height, setback and stem length/angle take care of that.
    This way, on the Atlas your saddle will be a bit more further forward in the seat post clamp and suddenly, there is a lot less left of that ETT measurement. That's why it's not very useful...
    That's also why you should focus on reach, because it takes STA out of the equation. Measure the horizontal distance from the tip of the seat to the BB centre on your current bike. Add reach to that and THEN find out what kind of stem lenght you'd need on an Atlas.

    Hope this makes sense. Not a native English speaker and I've got 1 glass of wine too many .

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    My thought is please check everything with the stack & reach measurements. Top tube length is a very disturbing measurement with the slack STA of the Atlas. Also, the sizing table on the Devinci website is a good guide. Use that as a double check! If you think you need a different size to what Devinci advises, do the math again.

    My guess is that you should take the bigger bike. Practically all bikes have steeper STA's than the Atlas. That means there is a solid chance the entire ETT of your current bike is further forward in relationship to the BB. By a lot.
    I'd allways advise to put your saddle in the same place in relationship to the BB. It puts your legs and lower body in the position you are used to.
    If you do not do this on the Atlas, you're effectively rotating yourself backwards around the BB. That's all well and good, but I'd rather not let bike geometry dictate how I sit on the bike. I want the same position regardless of the bike! Saddle height, setback and stem length/angle take care of that.
    This way, on the Atlas your saddle will be a bit more further forward in the seat post clamp and suddenly, there is a lot less left of that ETT measurement. That's why it's not very useful...
    That's also why you should focus on reach, because it takes STA out of the equation. Measure the horizontal distance from the tip of the seat to the BB centre on your current bike. Add reach to that and THEN find out what kind of stem lenght you'd need on an Atlas.

    Hope this makes sense. Not a native English speaker and I've got 1 glass of wine too many .
    I think you are spot on, clear and concise, and I didn't pick up any slurring of speech, so have another glass. Cheers, jws

  17. #417
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    I agree with JeroenK. I think the ett on the Atlas is skewed due to the seat tube angle.

    If you go with the larger frame, worst case is you run into issues with seat post extension, which could be problematic if you're running a dropper. If you're running a rigid post, no worry.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    I agree with JeroenK. I think the ett on the Atlas is skewed due to the seat tube angle.

    If you go with the larger frame, worst case is you run into issues with seat post extension, which could be problematic if you're running a dropper. If you're running a rigid post, no worry.
    I mostly agree too, but what JeroenK doesn't mention is that the seat tube, if uninterrupted, would intersect somewhere in front of the bottom bracket. You don't necessarily have to slide the seat further forward to have the proper saddle position front to back.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Dubya61 View Post
    Which brings up the idea of a 51 offset fork, if I go with the smaller size, and 51 offset will provide a bit more front to center. It seems to me that the HA is about what the 51 offset bikes are running....

    Thoughts?
    jW
    I was wondering the same thing, but maybe for a different reason: I've been comparing the Atlas to the 2014 Salsa Spearfish, which has many similarities (Split Pivot, short chainstays, etc.). They both have similar ett and hta; the main geometry difference is the fork offset: 51 mm for the Spearfish. So I just wondered which offset is best for the Atlas. Perhaps it depends on the fork travel? 44 mm offset for 120 mm forks and 51 mm for 140 forks to try to speed up the slacker steering?

    Also interested in thoughts about these two bikes in general. I'm coming from a 29 ht in rocky, rooty, tight, VA, doing mostly technical XC- trail riding with a few races each year. Was considering the Spearfish as an efficient alternative to my ht for comfort and back health. Enjoyed a test ride, but used all of the travel. That's what got me thinking something with just a little more travel might be good, as long as weight and efficiency aren't sacrificed much.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by xl_cheese View Post
    I mostly agree too, but what JeroenK doesn't mention is that the seat tube, if uninterrupted, would intersect somewhere in front of the bottom bracket. You don't necessarily have to slide the seat further forward to have the proper saddle position front to back.
    They measure the seat tube angle from centre bb to the back of the top of the seat tube.
    But because after the bent the top of seat tube is slacker, the general angle of the seat tube is determent of the height of the saddle.
    If you put the sadle high, the seat tube angle wil be slacker.
    If you put the sadle low, the seat tube angle wil be steeper.
    So for a correct seat tube angel it all depends of the rider and the devinci angles will be an approximate measurement, but it wil be not a big difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by TedS123 View Post
    I was wondering the same thing, but maybe for a different reason: I've been comparing the Atlas to the 2014 Salsa Spearfish, which has many similarities (Split Pivot, short chainstays, etc.). They both have similar ett and hta; the main geometry difference is the fork offset: 51 mm for the Spearfish. So I just wondered which offset is best for the Atlas. Perhaps it depends on the fork travel? 44 mm offset for 120 mm forks and 51 mm for 140 forks to try to speed up the slacker steering?

    Also interested in thoughts about these two bikes in general. I'm coming from a 29 ht in rocky, rooty, tight, VA, doing mostly technical XC- trail riding with a few races each year. Was considering the Spearfish as an efficient alternative to my ht for comfort and back health. Enjoyed a test ride, but used all of the travel. That's what got me thinking something with just a little more travel might be good, as long as weight and efficiency aren't sacrificed much.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
    I was also considering the spearfish or the atlas an went for the atlas.
    It is playful enough with an 120mm (44mm) would not go for the 51mm offset for me personally.

  21. #421
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    For those of you with Next SL cranks, did you use the supplied spacer and if so on which side?

  22. #422
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    I've been riding the Atlas Carbon with a 130mm Revelation, chips set in high, and my first thought was that the geometry "specs" do not accurately reflect the fit and ride. I suppose this is the case with most bikes, but the Atlas is certainly a bike that should be demoed vs buying sight unseen.

    The Atlas rides very tall (upright), which is likely due to the high BB and tall front end.

    The TT is deceptively long, I'm running an 80mm stem but I plan to run a 60-70mm stem.

    Though the CS is short, the bike does not suffer from a light front end, it is much easier to climb steep technical terrain than a bike like the Honzo; the Honzo requires more weight over the front end which compromises traction at times.

    With my current configuration, there is some front end "wag", nothing that I wouldn't expect with a 29er, but I'm thinking of going to a 120mm to see how this changes the steering.

  23. #423
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    Heres Mine !

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-20150115_124140.jpg

    Now i just need a dropper post , not sure which length 100 or 125 , large frame and i have a 32 leg , i was thinking a 385mm ks lev but dont know if it will hit the kink before i get my proper height , or even get to the kink at all with that collar hmmmm

  24. #424
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon-862814d1389899487-ks-lev-sizing-776233d1362053680-ks-lev-125mm-am-i-first-have-misure_lev.jpg

    You can use this to find the correct length, click to expand
    Set your proper height with a regular seatpost, measure from rails to the clamp. With that measurement and the total length of the post you compare it to the chart.

    I went with a 335 on my small frame as it turns out it's the perfect length at the minimum insert.

  25. #425
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    Dropped the chips to low, installed decent tires, installed good brakes, reduced the stem to 60mm, feels pretty nimble, trying to ride Sunday if it's not too I wet...

    Edit:

    Added Ardent EXO 2.4's last night, tubless using a rim strip, worked great.
    Changed chainrings, now running 24/34
    I'm considering a NW set up, but I'm holding out with the hope that I'll using the large chainring more this coming summer...

    6', 32" inseam
    Medium Atlas RC, chips in low
    Revelation 130mm
    740 Riser Bar
    60mm stem
    LEV dropper
    Ardent 2.4
    34/24 x 11-36
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 01-19-2015 at 04:25 PM.

  26. #426
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    What kind of cranks are you using? Not sure if I've seen pics of your ride, seeing other peoples setups is fun

    I just placed a big order with bike-components.de, I was going to re-use some of my Honzo parts; but ended up with a Zee/Saint mix and a Hope 40t cog for the rear.

  27. #427
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    Stock RC cranks for now, I'm not much of a weight weenie and the stock parts are decent quality. I'll be swapping out for an X9 derailleur and maybe change to a 1 x 10, otherwise the big upgrade will be wheels (carbon rims and CK hubs).

    I was really happy to see that an Ardent 2.4 fit with room to spare



    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    What kind of cranks are you using? Not sure if I've seen pics of your ride, seeing other peoples setups is fun

    I just placed a big order with bike-components.de, I was going to re-use some of my Honzo parts; but ended up with a Zee/Saint mix and a Hope 40t cog for the rear.
    Here's a pic:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-kimg0766.jpg  

    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 01-23-2015 at 11:36 AM.

  28. #428
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    Pics man pics hehe

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    Ride report... I've had mine for about 16 months. I still love the bike. I'm 5'11" on a large and swap between 90mm and 100mm stems. The bike is running a 120mm fork, xx1 drive train and good parts all around. I do most of my riding in Austin, Texas, which is rocky and technical. I spend a large part of the summer in Park City, Utah, which is pretty buff with major climbing. I race cat 1. The bike excels all around. It handles the slow speed, rough technical stuff well. The suspension is efficient and the bike light enough to climb very well, and stable enough for higher speed descents.

    The only problem I had was a persistent squeak from the top shock pivot. A needle bearing kit solved that. I also recently developed a sight amount of play, so I changed the bearings. The main pivot in the rocker was stuck in the bearing race. It took a lot of effort with a hammer and drift to get it out. I'd recommend pulling and greasing the alloy bolts regularly to prevent that from happening. Also the shape of a few of the components makes replacing the bearings hard without the special kit that Devinci sells.

    Best praise I can give is if I had to buy a new bike today, if buy the Atlas again.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    The only problem I had was a persistent squeak from the top shock pivot. A needle bearing kit solved that.
    I also picked up one of these kits. How did you get the bushings out of the shock? Did you pony up for the press/removal kit?

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken6503 View Post
    I also picked up one of these kits. How did you get the bushings out of the shock? Did you pony up for the press/removal kit?
    You can try this.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/fox-...to-182959.html


    I think I did mine with a C clamp and two sockets, one smaller one to push and another bigger one to catch. Like below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Kh4A48zEQ

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unforgiving View Post
    Pics man pics hehe
    Here go. More bike porn--after some mud wrestling.


  33. #433
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    The final bits are here, the Saint shifter feels really nice on the upshift. But there's a bit of side to side play on the downshift which I didn't expect. The Zee shifter has a nicer downshift than the Saint I'd dare say.

  34. #434
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    Re: Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken6503 View Post
    I also picked up one of these kits. How did you get the bushings out of the shock? Did you pony up for the press/removal kit?
    There is a poster here named mtnbiker4life that sells a tool for $25 to do this. If you have the fox shock, you can remove the old ones without any special tools. If using rock shox, you'll need to press the old du bushings out.

    You can use sockets, but a proper tool makes it quicker and easier, and reduces the risk of messing up.

  35. #435
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    I bought the mtnbiker4life tools off ebay, the RWC ones look simpler to use if you don't have a vice; but for me the mtnbiker ones ended up being cheaper due to Norwegian import taxes. Bought a handheld vice today that should do just fine.





    Some bits left to do, swapped some more parts around so the newest stuff goes on my Atlas rather than the fatbike.
    Last edited by Vegard; 02-04-2015 at 04:04 PM.

  36. #436
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_1051_zps0nnivzxs.jpg

    Slight brainfart when putting the front rotor on, but other than that it's done.
    Last edited by Vegard; 02-19-2015 at 09:16 AM.

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    Does anyone 6'3" ride an XL Atlas. After much searching I am about to put a deposit down on a 2015 XL carbon. The geometry specs appear to indicate the devinci xl about equivalent to a L in common brands like a trek. I have no chance to test ride.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEIGUY View Post
    Does anyone 6'3" ride an XL Atlas. After much searching I am about to put a deposit down on a 2015 XL carbon. The geometry specs appear to indicate the devinci xl about equivalent to a L in common brands like a trek. I have no chance to test ride.
    I sat on on an XL aluminum in my buddies shop, it is tall, but not a true XL in my opinion, it's like you said: "equivalent to a L in common brands like a trek".

  39. #439
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    Two month follow up, still loving the Atlas. Minor changes to stem and seat position, now running an 80mm stem on a medium frame whcih seems to work better for fit; this is with 760mm bars.

    I tried running the rear suspension in low, but it didn't feel right and I had more pedal hits, so I bumped it to high and it rides nice and balanced; this is with a 140mm Revelation.

    I did find the rear shock at 30% sag (215psi) to be a bit stiff, so I dropped the pressure slightly to 200psi and that made it more compliant for small bumps.

    The nice thing about the rear suspension design is that the antisquat really works, especially when climbing.

    I'm kind of picky when it comes to bikes and how hey climb technical terrain, I don't like to walk a hill when there is any chance that it can be ridden. The Atlas hooks up like few other bikes I have ridden. The rear suspension works so well that I don't feel the need to lock it out or use propedal.

    Next step: I am just not using my large chainring, so I'm going 1x, SRAM XX1, direct mount 26 or 28, Wolf Tooth steel 40t + 16t. Down the road I want to build some carbon wheels using hubs with higher engagement, possibly using the Onyx hubs if they stay together on my tandem

  40. #440
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    Nurse Ben how tall are you and how did the xl fit you .
    Hope it isn't too small as I have the xl on order

  41. #441
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    Don't forget that the carbon frame is ~0.5" longer in ETT/reach than the aluminum version. The large carbon atlas frame is similar to my large Gary Fisher X-Cal, but the large aluminum atlas is smaller.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEIGUY View Post
    Nurse Ben how tall are you and how did the xl fit you .
    Hope it isn't too small as I have the xl on order
    6', 32" inseam. I ride a medium carbon with an 80mm stem and 760mm bars.

    I could ride the XL, but it was a stretch. Proportionally it seems taller than it seems longer.

    It really depends on how you prefer your cockpit to "feel". I could be riding a large Atlas with a short stem, but when I demoed that set up it felt long.

    The ST angle is really low, so raising the seat significantly changes the reach, a high seat position and lower bars (assuming this is your preference), would make it long in ETT.

    I'm not so sure I would characterize the Atlas as fitting that differently from comparable bikes. I found more love on a medium in the KHS 6500 as well as my Honzo and Lurch, so I guess I'm a medium now

  43. #443
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    So I finally pulled the trigger on a used 2013 Atlas Carbon off Pinkbike, size Large. I'll be building it up with a 120 mm Rockshox Revelation Dual Air RCT3 and my current wheels (LB carbon on Hope hubs).

    I've got a few questions since this is my first FS:

    I'm still deciding on drive train parts. My plan was to run 2x10 like my existing hardtail, with 26/39 or 24/38 crank and 11-36 cassette. How does the bike respond to climbing in the front chainring? I've read some say it does better with 24 vs 22 - Is it better still to go with 26 for granny? Also, what cage length is everyone running for their rear derailleur? The above setup seems to be on the border between Medium and Long (I run Long on my hardtail), but does chain growth or derailleur type (clutch vs non-clutch) play into the equation?

    I'm going to replace the pivot bearings since the swing arm was already removed for shipping. Some of the bearings feel "notchy". Has anyone done this? Are there any tricks to disassembling the split pivots?

    Does anyone have a link to the user's manual? The link posted earlier in the thread no longer works.

    Thanks! Here's a pic:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-atlas-carbon-1.jpg  


  44. #444
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    I have it, pm me your email and I can send it. In terms of servicing it isn't really helpful though. Afaik Devinici sells tools and bearings if you have a dealer nearby.

  45. #445
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    I changed the bearings in mine. I purchased the tool kit from Devinci to do it, and based on the shapes of some of the components, I think it would be challenging to do it without the kit. The rocker arms in particular seem like they would present a challenge to get the bearings out without a specific tool, as there's no flat spot to leverage.

    The kit is nice, but it's not cheap. It also includes adapters for all of their bikes, so you end up paying for stuff you'll likely never use.

  46. #446
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    Thanks, Vegard - I sent you a PM.

  47. #447
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    Where did you guys find the bearing press kits? Are they on Devinci's webpage? I couldn't find them and I don't have a local Devinci dealer.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by TedS123 View Post
    Thanks, Vegard - I sent you a PM.
    Emailed!

    Quote Originally Posted by TedS123 View Post
    Where did you guys find the bearing press kits? Are they on Devinci's webpage? I couldn't find them and I don't have a local Devinci dealer.
    Fanatik can probably get it for you, they have the pivot kit listed atleast.
    Your Search: "devinci" - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham WA

  49. #449
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    Thanks, got it, Vegard! I'll check with fanatik. I also have some bearing tools for my hope hubs - I'll check to see if any of those happen to fit.

    Any thoughts on drive train choices?

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  50. #450
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    Have you tried popping the covers off and removing old lube? Might just need to be cleaned and repacked.

  51. #451
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    I haven't had success popping cartridge bearing seals off without damaging them, though it would be nice to be able to.

    On the other hand, it looks like my Hope hub tools will work - they use bearings with the same diameter (6803). I'll add some pics later.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  52. #452
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    For future use a hooked plastic dental pick will work without damaging the seal, one of the things I carried over to mtbing from paintball maintenance

  53. #453
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    As promised, here are pics of the Hope hub press tools that fit the Atlas frame bearings (6903) for both removal and installation...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-hope-hub-tool1.jpg  

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-hope-hub-tool2.jpg  


  54. #454
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    That's awesome. Great find as I'm sure the Hope kit is a lot cheaper. Hopefully that means I can also use the Devinci kit to change my Hope hub bearings so I can get more value out of it.

  55. #455
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    I want to say the kit was ~$30 - 40. Even better deal now that I have more uses for them ☺

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  56. #456
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    Does it work on all the bearings or just the ones pictured?

  57. #457
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    Haven't tried yet, but will report back after trying,

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  58. #458
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    Update on the bearing replacement:

    Some of the old bearings I could tap out with a mallet and the Hope press tool. The worst, though, were the main pivot bearings on the chainstay swingarm. I had to rent/borrow a bearing puller from Autozone and jerry-rig it with some nuts and washers to get those out.

    I had to make my own $7 diy bearing press (5/8" bolt, nut, and washers) to install the new bearings, but otherwise the installation of the new bearings went smoothly.

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-bearingpress2.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-bearingpress1.jpg

  59. #459
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    Mine in the wild:


    No issues climbing with a 140mm fork, this is probably the best bike I've ever ridden. It's as good or better than these new fangled hyped 29er trailmachines that's been recently released. (The hype is warranted so don't get your panties in a bunch )
    Last edited by Vegard; 05-04-2015 at 09:21 AM.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Mine in the wild:


    No issues climbing with a 140mm fork, this is probably the best bike I've ever ridden. It's as good or better than these new fangled hyped 29er trailmachines that's been recently released. (The hype is warranted so don't get your panties in a bunch )
    Did you happen to try a Troy when you were shopping or otherwise? If so, how did it compare to this? I tried a buddy's Troy last night for a little spin after our weekly club ride, and I really, really liked it. Though it did not roll quite as freely on the easy climb I was using to test as another buddy's Jet 9 with a 150 fork on it. The Jet 9 did not feel as playful and felt steeper in the head though.

  61. #461
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    To me they feel pretty similar, I just prefer the feel of momentum on a 29er. I think the best thing for you is just to go somewhere and try an Atlas, it's an odd bike but in a good way

  62. #462
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    To me they feel pretty similar, I just prefer the feel of momentum on a 29er. I think the best thing for you is just to go somewhere and try an Atlas, it's an odd bike but in a good way
    Yes, I wish I could do that easily. My local shop with whom I ride every week carries da Vinci, but does not have demos of an atlas available. I may have to get down to Fruita to try one out.

    I love the feeling of momentum on a 29'er as well, and my old sugar improved my climbing particularly quite a bit as compared to my old 26 inch bike. And as an older middle-aged rider trying to keep up with the big dogs, I like every mechanical advantage I can get. If I can get that same feeling of sitting comfortably behind the suspension and also being able to toss it into the turns that I was getting on the Troy, and it climbs well, the atlas might be perfect. I just would love to try both back to back.

    .

    Just for fun, here is a picture of the crew out on last nights ride. The guy in the bright yellow raincoat is the one on the Troy.
    Last edited by sunvalleylaw; 05-08-2015 at 09:24 AM.

  63. #463
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    Well, I'm finally ready to post my finished build. Ingredients:

    2013 Devinci Atlas Carbon, size L - Pinkbike
    2012 RS Revelation RCT3 dual air - Pinkbike
    Hope Pro 2 Evo on LB carbon rims - from my old bike
    SLX Crank - Bike24
    SLX Brakes - Bike24
    XT cassette - Bike24
    X9 Derailleurs - Bike24
    X9 Shifters - ebay
    Thomson post - Pinkbike
    Selle Italia SLR XC Flow - ebay
    Bar (Forte Team 720 Flat cut down to 685) & Stem (90 mm) from surplus

    Total cost under $1900.

    I'm still dialing in the fit, but felt better after lowering the fork from 140 to 120 and slamming the stem (inverted, no spacers beneath). I'm coming from an 80mm travel hardtail (2010 GF X-Cal) and am used to having my weight on the front wheel for cornering traction, so was getting washout on the Atlas prior to making these adjustments. It's starting to feel more natural to me, now. I've really enjoyed the improved traction on bumpy, technical uphills compared to my hardtail. After just a week I am already approaching some of my best times on several sections of our local trails. It's been fun, and I look forward to continuing to tweaking the fit and suspension settings...

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-p5pb12252578.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-p5pb12252579.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-p5pb12252577.jpg

  64. #464
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    It's interesting to see how different the setups in this thread are, yours seems a bit more xc oriented than my build is atm.

    Fork: RS Pike 140, 51mm offset
    Wheelset: SRAM Roam 60
    Tire F: HD Trailstar 2.35
    Tire R: NN Pacestar 2.25
    Brakes: Magura MT8
    Discs: Storm SL
    Crank: RF Next 34t
    Chain: KMC DLC SL
    Cassette: XT 11-40
    Cassette 40t: Hope
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano Zee
    Shifter: Shimano Saint
    Bar: MT ZOOM Ultralight Carbon 720mm 15mm Low Riser
    Stem: Hope DH 50mm
    Grips: Ergon GE1
    Seatpost: KS Lev 125/385
    Seatclamp: Hope
    Seat: RF Aeffect
    Pedals: CB Egg11

    With stans goo and what not the total weight is around 24lb. Could probably get it down another lb with a new stem and lighter tires.

  65. #465
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    Debonair can is confirmed to fit

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    It's interesting to see how different the setups in this thread are, yours seems a bit more xc oriented than my build is atm.
    Yeah, this bike does seem to have quite wide range of possible uses. I've been tweaking mine a bit more over the past couple weeks. First, I swapped out my 90 mm stem for 100 mm and found it improved climbing by giving more leverage on the bar and more weight on the front wheel. The longer stem also smoothed and calmed the steering down a little more to my liking, as well - more like my Gary Fisher X-Cal. There were places where the quick steering was getting me in trouble in the real twisty, tricky uphill rock gardens where line choice is critical. The suspension was allowing to go through these much faster than before, but that made it harder to keep the right line. Perhaps if I kept with the 90 mm long enough I would adapt, but right now the handling with the 100 feels just right.

    I also switched out my bar from the Forte Team 720 (cut to 675) for an Easton EC70 685 bar. Just a hair wider (as wide as I can go without hitting trees), about 5 mm lower, and a bit lighter. Combined with new ESI Chunky grips it's really starting to feel like home...

    Another pic:
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-0613151502a.jpgDevinci Atlas Carbon-0613151503aa.jpg

  67. #467
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    Very nice build! What is the head angle at running the 140 Pike?

  68. #468
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    With 140 forks the 2013 carbon Atlas is 68.5 in the low setting and 69.1 in high.

  69. #469
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    Here are some pics of mine. I absolutely love this bike. I've ridden many different bikes over the years and this one is as good as anything. My only complaint is that I would like to go back to steeper headangles and shorter fork offsets. I'm going to build up another very similar to this as my next bike once I sell this one. I may go with Magura brakes instead, but otherwise it will be about the same build. I have a hunch there's an Atlas replacement in the pipeline at Devinci.

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-00d0d_k2udzt78sg6_600x450.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-01616_ciqfodixbx3_600x450.jpg
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-00o0o_hzij3djhpzt_600x450.jpg
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon-00a0a_eiprpdxum0_600x450.jpg
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  70. #470
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    PIVOT Bearing working out

    Has any one had this happen to their bearing on the pivot ? I wanted to clean up pivot points to see if it would alleviate the some creaking i was having and noticed this after a ride



    the bearing has worked it self out some how slightly , i dont see how this is possible as it was put back together proper and torqued to spec , the other side is flush , has anyone see this or had this happen on any devinci seatstay pivots ?

  71. #471
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    I have had a similar problem on a Salsa Big Mama I have had for almost six years. The first time I changed the bearings this happened and I put a small piece of coke can at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. This worked for over three years. I have very recently changed the bearings again and this time I hit a pin punch in the same places.

    Whilst the pin punch makes an impression, the displaced metal forms a circular high spot around the punch point. I hit the punch as much to the outside of the housing as possible, so the majority of the bearing is pressed past it and theoretically retained by it.

    So far so good. I think this is a fairly common problem on bikes at the seat stay/rocker interface.

    Good luck with it.

  72. #472
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    loctite bearing retainer seems to have fixed the issue !

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Anyone know the size of the largest 1x chainring that can be used? (alu frame, but I assume it's the same on both)
    I'd like some feedback on this too. I'm currently running a SRAM GXP crank with a 32t 1x direct mount ring on an Atlas Carbon medium. I'd like to go up to a 34t or oval 32t, but the chainstay clearance already looks tight.

    What size 1x chainring are most people running? 32t? 34t? Will 36t fit?

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0riarty View Post
    I'd like some feedback on this too. I'm currently running a SRAM GXP crank with a 32t 1x direct mount ring on an Atlas Carbon medium. I'd like to go up to a 34t or oval 32t, but the chainstay clearance already looks tight.

    What size 1x chainring are most people running? 32t? 34t? Will 36t fit?
    I'm on a size small Atlas Carbon--I have a 36t and it fits no problem. I'd assume a 32 oval would work.

  75. #475
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    34t works fine for me, a 36 would give me issues though. (Next sl crankset)

  76. #476
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    anybody running a 50mm stem on there Atlas ? iam running a 70mm atm with 785 bars on a large frame , wondering how a 50mm will handle or if ill get to much wander on the climbs ? 140mm fork on mine

  77. #477
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    I'm using a 50mm stem, 720 bar and a 140 fork and get no lift/wander when climbing even the steepest of stuff. But I made sure when I bought the frame that the reach with a 50mm stem would be perfect for my bodysize.

  78. #478
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    I'm looking for an Owner's Manual for my 2013 Devinci Atlas Carbon RC - Medium.

    Devinci refers me to dealer. They have no 2013 manuals. Online search gets nothing.

    Anyone have one to share?

    Is the Owner's Manual the same as the 3 page technical paper that has the part numbers, pivot diagrams, and torques? Or is it something completely different?

    Barry

  79. #479
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    Yes, I believe the owner's manual is the 3 pager. I use that technical paper for nearly everything - a combination of that for part numbers and torque settings and the glossy catalogue for original parts spec (OEM names - I've still had to call Easton to get wheel specs though when I rebuilt them).

    From the sounds of it, you've already found the three pager online. If you need any help with the original catalogue for parts and geometry, let me know and I'll scan the pages and send it to you.

  80. #480
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    Thanks. The 3 page manual/parts diagram/list that I have only shows the Large size frame. Do you have another version? Would ALL of the other parts be common for all frame sizes?
    Thanks for the offer of the original glossy catalog pages. Please email to nbadam at cox dot net.

    Thanks,

    Barry

  81. #481
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    You can browse kits and geos in the link below aswell:
    DEVINCI 2013

  82. #482
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    Hi everyone, I just got a Devinci Atlas Carbon and want to put my DT Swiss rear shock on it. Can you tell me what width mounting hardware I need for the upper and lower parts of the rear shock? I think someone mentioned a M8 x 41.2 for the upper but just wanted to confirm that was right and also curious what I would need for the lower. Thanks guys.

  83. #483
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    Sorry that I didn't see this earlier - don't know what happened. The link that Vegard provided below has the specs that are in my glossy brochure. As for the three-pager, I've used those part numbers to order pivot bearings, pivot nut (guess I didn't torque it to the specs), and flip-chip. It's also been sufficient for me to talk to Easton regarding the wheels (before I upgraded). I think you should be good to go.

  84. #484
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    Does anyone know if Devinci has dropped the Atlas from the lineup for 2016? I'm no longer seeing it listed on their site (from the main page anyway). I currently have a 2013 Atlas Carbon frame and love it, but I was half expecting them to update the bike with Boost 148 and internal routing, among other things.

    There was no news about it at Interbike so I'm not too optimistic...

    DEVINCI

  85. #485
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    Well, they have the Hendrix now which is basically that. No internal routing though and you'd obviously have to buy it as a frame only if you wanted to run 29" tires.

  86. #486
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    Gotcha. Looks interesting but definitely a different market segment - geometry, no carbon version - 8lb. frame! Certainly not the same kind of versatility as the Atlas.

    So who are the current top short chain-stay FS 29ers? Evil, Canfield, Kona? I guess even the new Stumpjumper FSR has decently shorter stays now. Times change...

  87. #487
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    I ride an Atlas, closest thing to it I've ridden is a BH Linx 29er. Built one for my wife, it has the offset fork like everything Dave Weagle is helping design now, it's an amazing bike. Actually handles a little better than the Atlas, though I'm not ready to give up my Atlas!

  88. #488
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    I have heard that several people were upset that Devinci ditched the 29ers and heard they are in the process of redesigning a new 29er full suspension and 29er hardtail. I believe the new Atlas is going to be more cross country oriented. Should be released summer of 2016.

  89. #489
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    I've ridden the Atlas with a 100mm SID not good, I had a 120mm SID on mine for awhile and it handled way better than a 100mm. I now have a Pike 140mm and it's the best setup for the Atlas by far!

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmycricket View Post
    I have heard that several people were upset that Devinci ditched the 29ers and heard they are in the process of redesigning a new 29er full suspension and 29er hardtail. I believe the new Atlas is going to be more cross country oriented. Should be released summer of 2016.
    Considering how popular the trail segment of 29ers are right now I hope that's not the case; it would leave me with zero options in Devinci bikes. That would be sad.

    If/when I replace my Atlas I guess it'll be with a Ripley or a 429 trail if the next iteration of the Atlas ends up being purebred xc.

  91. #491
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    I will watch this with interest. Was looking at an Atlas but then they were discontinued. I had not pulled the trigger as I was not sure that I wanted that bike or the Kona process 111. For now it looks like I'm going with the Kona.

  92. #492
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    Hi all. Enjoying my Atlas very much still:

    2012 Devinci Atlas frame (M)
    LB 27mm hookless carbon rims /w Hope Pro II Evo hubs
    Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29"x2.25 (tubeless)
    2014 Fox 32 Float 120mm
    Nukeproof 760mm flat bar
    ODI TLD yellow grips
    Raceface Turbine 70mm stem
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Raceface Respond seatpost
    Nukeproof Plasma saddle
    XT brakeset
    Raceface crank boots
    XX1 drivetrain /w 30t ring
    Shimano XT pedals

    Now I am contemplating getting a carbon frameset (new ideally) to replace what I have. Any one knows of any LBS or online hook-ups otherwise? TIA.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-11168124_10152894195975980_6061221783337431852_n.jpg  

    '12 Trance X1 / '13 Atlas / '14 SB66 / '16 Smuggler (gone)
    '15 Torque DHX
    '16 Insurgent
    '18 Smuggler C

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    Now I am contemplating getting a carbon frameset (new ideally) to replace what I have. Any one knows of any LBS or online hook-ups otherwise? TIA.
    Devinci has discontinued the Atlas so you'll have to find a dealer with some already in stock. Try Wes at velorangutan.com. I know he had some carbon frames in stock a few months ago.

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12snap View Post
    Devinci has discontinued the Atlas so you'll have to find a dealer with some already in stock. Try Wes at velorangutan.com. I know he had some carbon frames in stock a few months ago.
    Hey man, thanks for the headsup... emailed but unfortunately, they only have L and XL size. Drats.
    '12 Trance X1 / '13 Atlas / '14 SB66 / '16 Smuggler (gone)
    '15 Torque DHX
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    '18 Smuggler C

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    Hey man, thanks for the headsup... emailed but unfortunately, they only have L and XL size. Drats.
    Try www.fanatikbike.com. They have a medium on sale on their website. Just saw it today. Maybe they'll drop their price even more for Black Friday.

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  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12snap View Post
    Try Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham WA. They have a medium on sale on their website. Just saw it today. Maybe they'll drop their price even more for Black Friday.
    Yup, I actually know of that site already... fingers crossed for this coming weekend. Tbh, that price is still too dear for me, cos still gotta account for freight and taxes to my location.
    '12 Trance X1 / '13 Atlas / '14 SB66 / '16 Smuggler (gone)
    '15 Torque DHX
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    '18 Smuggler C

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    Yup, I actually know of that site already... fingers crossed for this coming weekend. Tbh, that price is still too dear for me, cos still gotta account for freight and taxes to my location.
    I know what you mean. It might be worth a call to see if they'll come down on the price. You may want to go to the Devinci website and find the dealer list. Start calling them to see if they have any left in stock and are willing to ship to you. It's what I did when the Atlas was first released since I didn't have a dealer nearby.

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  98. #498
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    There's a used '13 carbon in medium with a pike on ebay for somewhat cheap.

  99. #499
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    Very nice ! Waiting on my wheels to get here for mine, can't wait.
    Lynskey Pro 29 SL brushed etched.

  100. #500
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    Its been a while since any one posted, but anyways, I was wondering If I should worry about this.. Seems like the clear coat chipped off 2 different spots and connected. I know it Looks awful (and it hurts) but its hidden under heli tape. I put black electric tape to cover it up. Thanks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_20160114_224010.jpg  

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_20160114_223659.jpg  


  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0riarty View Post
    This is the 41.15mm kit and no shims are necessary.

    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS
    Thanks! I just ordered a Monarch RCT3 and will likely try the debonair can on it. I also ordered the RWC kit for the upper hardware. I'm going to use 'normal' hardware for the bottom. On a 2014 carbon, does anyone know what size I need? Also, should I order Fox or Rockshox hardware--anyone have a preference? Thanks!

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by llamapoo View Post
    Yes, I believe the owner's manual is the 3 pager. I use that technical paper for nearly everything - a combination of that for part numbers and torque settings and the glossy catalogue for original parts spec (OEM names - I've still had to call Easton to get wheel specs though when I rebuilt them).

    From the sounds of it, you've already found the three pager online. If you need any help with the original catalogue for parts and geometry, let me know and I'll scan the pages and send it to you.
    Any chance you still have that? I'm looking at a carbon frame that has the bolt on axle, not the maxle, and trying to see if it's 135 or 142 spacing, and what diameter that axle is. Thanks

  103. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Any chance you still have that? I'm looking at a carbon frame that has the bolt on axle, not the maxle, and trying to see if it's 135 or 142 spacing, and what diameter that axle is. Thanks
    send me pics of what you are trying to measure and I'll email you the OM.

    Barry

    nbadam at cox dot net

  104. #504
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    I have been hearing some creaking when I put a lot of pressure on the bars or if I'm track standing. So I took apart my head set to check. In your opinion, would this be considered a crack?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_20160524_172421%7E3.jpg  


  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by barryadam View Post
    send me pics of what you are trying to measure and I'll email you the OM.

    Barry

    nbadam at cox dot net
    Sorry, I guess I only get weekly updates on this thread. B.Rock and barryadam, just let me know if you need the OM and the specs page from the catalogue and I'll send them.

    tab

  106. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by ifly3Dallday View Post
    I have been hearing some creaking when I put a lot of pressure on the bars or if I'm track standing. So I took apart my head set to check. In your opinion, would this be considered a crack?
    Best I can tell from picture is that is not a crack. Creaking noise comes from headset. Mine has cane creek 40 headset and I cannot stop the creaking either. Some have recommended over tightening headset but I think best is to upgrade to a cane creek 110 series.

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccook905 View Post
    Best I can tell from picture is that is not a crack. Creaking noise comes from headset. Mine has cane creek 40 headset and I cannot stop the creaking either. Some have recommended over tightening headset but I think best is to upgrade to a cane creek 110 series.
    Just did that a couple weeks ago after the stock headset bearings pretty much rotted out. So far so good i.e. no creaking. Also threw an RWC needle bearing on the rear shock. Wow, now that was an underrated upgrade. My 2015 Carbon Atlas is it still a head turner on the trail. The shiny carbon/teal blue finish gets a lot of nice comments from folks riding around on matte black clone bikes.

    It's been easy enough to work on and my LBS does excellent work and has all the tools. It seems the market is trying to get closer to this bike just as Devinci went in another direction. Shame. I plan to run this until the carbon is ground to dust.

    My next upgrade will eventually be a set of carbon hoops to replace my SunRingle set.

  108. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken6503 View Post
    Just did that a couple weeks ago after the stock headset bearings pretty much rotted out. So far so good i.e. no creaking. Also threw an RWC needle bearing on the rear shock. Wow, now that was an underrated upgrade. My 2015 Carbon Atlas is it still a head turner on the trail. The shiny carbon/teal blue finish gets a lot of nice comments from folks riding around on matte black clone bikes.

    It's been easy enough to work on and my LBS does excellent work and has all the tools. It seems the market is trying to get closer to this bike just as Devinci went in another direction. Shame. I plan to run this until the carbon is ground to dust.

    My next upgrade will eventually be a set of carbon hoops to replace my SunRingle set.
    Yeah, I scratched my head on Devinci's decision to drop the Atlas.
    As noted all the new 29ers coming out resemble the Atlas.
    Just picked up one of those 100mm reverbs from merlin for mine:0)

  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthem1 View Post
    Yeah, I scratched my head on Devinci's decision to drop the Atlas.
    As noted all the new 29ers coming out resemble the Atlas.
    Just picked up one of those 100mm reverbs from merlin for mine:0)
    I talked with the company about 6 months ago. I had concerns about parts and components even the frame had a lifetime warranty. I didn't want them to force me into a 27.5 in case my frame ever went kaboom. They said they had all the molds and materials to replace any component indefinitely. I hope that remains the case.

  110. #510
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    Ahh thanks for letting me know. I have a FSA (can't see the model number) headset right now. I wonder how the performance differs. By the way, have any of you guys seen a very small hair line crack coming from the seat tube dot going out in an angle. How big do these need to get till I need to worry. Sorry guys for my paranoia, but I just want to keep on riding it as well instead of taking it to the lbs with a probability of getting blown off. I second the ease of dissambly/reassembly as well as peoples reaction when they try to discover what this bike is haha.
    Last edited by ifly3Dallday; 07-20-2016 at 12:49 PM.

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthem1 View Post
    Yeah, I scratched my head on Devinci's decision to drop the Atlas.
    As noted all the new 29ers coming out resemble the Atlas.
    Just picked up one of those 100mm reverbs from merlin for mine:0)
    Resemble, yes; ride the same; no. My 2013 carbon Atlas was a good bike, but saying it rides like a modern trailbike would be wrong, the seattube is way too slack for that among some other differences.

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Resemble, yes; ride the same; no. My 2013 carbon Atlas was a good bike, but saying it rides like a modern trailbike would be wrong, the seattube is way too slack for that among some other differences.
    Hi Vegard, have you been able to compare the Atlas to some more recent bikes? What are your impressions of the differenceso?
    Ted

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  113. #513
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    I have had a chance to ride mine back to back with many of the "new trail bikes"
    The Pivot trail is a sweet bike, maybe a little more efficient climbing due to the rear link, but no where near as fun to throw around due to the longer chain stays.
    Same applies to the first gen Ripley.

  114. #514
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    I just built up an alloy 2015 Atlas after riding many "modern trail bikes". From Ti aggro hardtails to full on enduro machines. The Atlas is seldom matched on the versatility front, even when compared to the latest crop of trail bikes. The geo could do with a few minor tweaks but honestly I am loving it as it is.

    I am running a 140mm fork, 760mm bars and 170mm cranks with the frame set to the low position. This thing rips.


  115. #515
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    [QUOTE=hmorsi;12745392]I just built up an alloy 2015 Atlas after riding many "modern trail bikes". From Ti aggro hardtails to full on enduro machines. The Atlas is seldom matched on the versatility front, even when compared to the latest crop of trail bikes. The geo could do with a few minor tweaks but honestly I am loving it as it is.

    I am running a 140mm fork, 760mm bars and 170mm cranks with the frame set to the low position. This thing rips.

    [IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk

    I could not agree more.
    I have ridden most of the new trail 29ers, none of them have compelled me to upgrade my 2015 carbo Atlas.

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmorsi View Post
    I just built up an alloy 2015 Atlas after riding many "modern trail bikes". From Ti aggro hardtails to full on enduro machines. The Atlas is seldom matched on the versatility front, even when compared to the latest crop of trail bikes. The geo could do with a few minor tweaks but honestly I am loving it as it is.

    I am running a 140mm fork, 760mm bars and 170mm cranks with the frame set to the low position. This thing rips.

    That's a sexy beast. What manitou fork are you running?


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  117. #517
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    I must say, I like this bike. I've looked at the specs and I'm possibly in the market for a racey 29er. Too bad they stopped making it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  118. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    That's a sexy beast. What manitou fork are you running?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thanks! The Atlas is a good looking bike indeed. The fork is a Manitou Minute.

    Here is a shot from my ride yesterday.

  119. #519
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    Nice... How do you like it? What size and riding style are you? I was very close to grabbing one to replace my busted Revelation but at almost 200lbs kitted up I have read that the older Tower was flexy. I had a 100mm Tower Pro on my old hardtail that I loved but felt that it would get overwhelmed when I would hit seriously rocky stuff. Really wish that Manitou would make a 34mm stanchioned 29er fork other than the Magnum.

  120. #520
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon

    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Nice... How do you like it? What size and riding style are you? I was very close to grabbing one to replace my busted Revelation but at almost 200lbs kitted up I have read that the older Tower was flexy. I had a 100mm Tower Pro on my old hardtail that I loved but felt that it would get overwhelmed when I would hit seriously rocky stuff. Really wish that Manitou would make a 34mm stanchioned 29er fork other than the Magnum.
    I have about 4 rides on it so far and liking it. It's the 140mm Travel version. Easy to set up, predictable along the travel range and no excessive dive on the slow speed technical manoeuvring on steep sections without having to increase the pressure significantly and thus sacrificing some of that small bump response.

    I have a 120mm Tower Pro on my Ti hardtail and also like it. Slightly flexy but I am thinking the flex might be the wheels on the hardtail since they're a Stans Crest rims lightweight build. The only times I do feel the flex is when pushing hard in corners, the 2.3 tire would slightly buzz the plastic Marsh Guard front fender mounted on the reverse arch.

    I am about 76kg geared up on a medium frame. I'd describe my riding as aggro XC on technical forest and desert trails (I travel frequently so have the opportunity to ride varied terrain) and I do a couple XC/enduro races every year.

    I also wish Manitou made a 34mm mid travel 29er fork, but for my current purposes the Minute seems solid.

  121. #521
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    Ah ok... yeah I am a bit heavier than you at about 190lbs (87kgs) so that is probably part of the reason I felt more flex and most of the guys that I talked to were in the 200+lbs range (95kgs+). Especially at 140mm travel and the fact that I am more of an aggressive trail/AM rider now than when I had the Tower. Came very close to grabbing the 27.5+ Magnum and throwing a standard sized 29er rim in it but ended up not.

  122. #522
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    Coming soon is the replacement to the Atlas. The Django 29.



    Last edited by Velorangutan; 08-11-2016 at 12:41 PM.

  123. #523
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    Here's my new Atlas build. I stuck with the Atlas over the new Django because I like the steeper head angle.



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    Rear derailleur hanger

    Hey guys, might be another ocd question but, should the rear derailleur hanger be square on to recesses on the rear triangle? I can't get it square unless It is well under the recommended torque, so right now it's a bit angled to the recess.. let me know if it's nothing to worry about. a pic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_20160804_160543.jpg  


  125. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velorangutan View Post
    Coming soon is the replacement to the Atlas. The Django 29.
    Meh, I think the mid-travel 29er market is just super-saturated, it might be along the lines of what I could use, but I really want something a little racier, 100-115mm, with the pedaling characteristics of the Atlas, around 100% or a little above, anti-squat throughout a good portion of the travel, so it won't be like a wet matress uphill when pedaling and the suspension is activating. Although there are a few bikes out there, Czar, 429, Following, Ripley, I think the shorter-travel aggressive 29 XC bikes (with modern XC geometry, not too stupid-steep) are where the market is lacking. You got the basic stuff from the big manufactures, but they tend to rely more on lockouts and brain type devices, rather than good suspension characteristics. I wish there were a few more short travel bikes on the market like the Atlas, without a crazy falling-anti-squat curve or 200%, etc.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Meh, I think the mid-travel 29er market is just super-saturated, it might be along the lines of what I could use, but I really want something a little racier, 100-115mm, with the pedaling characteristics of the Atlas, around 100% or a little above, anti-squat throughout a good portion of the travel, so it won't be like a wet matress uphill when pedaling and the suspension is activating. Although there are a few bikes out there, Czar, 429, Following, Ripley, I think the shorter-travel aggressive 29 XC bikes (with modern XC geometry, not too stupid-steep) are where the market is lacking. You got the basic stuff from the big manufactures, but they tend to rely more on lockouts and brain type devices, rather than good suspension characteristics. I wish there were a few more short travel bikes on the market like the Atlas, without a crazy falling-anti-squat curve or 200%, etc.
    Just curious, why NOT the Czar? Sounds like what you are looking for. Really love mine. It's more of a do-all bike in a very light package than I expected. I'm just getting started on building up a Following for the more punishing trails and steeper downs. The Czar handles everything else very nicely.

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Just curious, why NOT the Czar? Sounds like what you are looking for. Really love mine. It's more of a do-all bike in a very light package than I expected. I'm just getting started on building up a Following for the more punishing trails and steeper downs. The Czar handles everything else very nicely.
    It's a contender, I especially like the open-triangle design that will lend itself well to custom-bags, for the long-distance races. I want something I can XC race and not get beat up on, as I'm getting more competitive, but I'd like even more choices in the field. It seems there are a million 120-140mm 29ers out there, which is the travel-area I'm least interested in, since 150-160mm bikes are so light these days and climb so well. I can cover the spread better for myself with an XC race/endurance bike at this point I think, rather than a 130mm bike that I wouldn't want to take to the bikepark and that would still be a bit of a bear to XC race.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  128. #528
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    I hear you. Already having the Czar, choosing my 2nd bike has been a challenge. Never in my wildest dreams expected to get so fond of the big wheels. The SC 5010 I thought would fill the gap is more plush than the Czar, but it won't handle that much more (greater travel, but less rollover). I hear the Following with 140 up front will handle the rough stuff very well, but was tempted to go more extreme (Wreckoning). We'll see...

  129. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by xl_cheese View Post
    Here's my new Atlas build. I stuck with the Atlas over the new Django because I like the steeper head angle.


    That's a sexy drivetrain right there. What's the overall weight?

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    Bumping this one back up...has anyone done the debonair upgrade on their RT3? Looking at rebuilding the Monarch and debating the upgrade but wasn't sure how it would play with the split pivot's dynamics.

  131. #531
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    I tweeted DW and asked about that, he said it'd be a good upgrade. I bought a can, but I never got around to using it before I sold the frame and got another Honzo.

    Depending on where you live I could sell the unused can to you for cheap. PM me if so.

  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Bumping this one back up...has anyone done the debonair upgrade on their RT3? Looking at rebuilding the Monarch and debating the upgrade but wasn't sure how it would play with the split pivot's dynamics.
    I ditched my RT3 and put a Manitou Mcleod on. Sooooo much better of a shock than the RT3 was on the Atlas.

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    I ditched my RT3 and put a Manitou Mcleod on. Sooooo much better of a shock than the RT3 was on the Atlas.
    Can you elaborate on what you find better with the McLeod?The RT3 on my medium 2015 alloy Atlas is the one of the few stock shocks I am happy with on my bikes. I weigh 78kg geared up.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmorsi View Post
    Can you elaborate on what you find better with the McLeod?The RT3 on my medium 2015 alloy Atlas is the one of the few stock shocks I am happy with on my bikes. I weigh 78kg geared up.
    To me feels like it has better damping and better small bump compliance/smoother over the little stuff. Also I was getting kind of hard bottom outs with the RT3 which I do not get with the Mcleod. Do have to crank up the rebound on it on the Atlas.

    I have a 2013 and the RT3 was in need of a rebuild so threw the money towards the Mcleod instead of the rebuild. For $250 itĺs a great little shock that preforms very well.

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    To me feels like it has better damping and better small bump compliance/smoother over the little stuff. Also I was getting kind of hard bottom outs with the RT3 which I do not get with the Mcleod. Do have to crank up the rebound on it on the Atlas.

    I have a 2013 and the RT3 was in need of a rebuild so threw the money towards the Mcleod instead of the rebuild. For $250 itĺs a great little shock that preforms very well.
    I see. Thanks! What do you weigh geared up if I may ask?

  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmorsi View Post
    I see. Thanks! What do you weigh geared up if I may ask?
    About 210LBS geared up and run 195PSI in the Mcleod and also the RT3.

  137. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I tweeted DW and asked about that, he said it'd be a good upgrade. I bought a can, but I never got around to using it before I sold the frame and got another Honzo.

    Depending on where you live I could sell the unused can to you for cheap. PM me if so.
    PM'd.

  138. #538
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    Which way is steeper for the seat angle wrt the flip chip? Bike is awesome but after riding my fat bike (which I swore I'd not like) I found the steep seat tube able really allowed me to get aggressive on flatter ground and S turns, which is what we have hear in the prairies. Want to make sure my Atlas is steep as can be before I decide to put up for sale. It rules in all conditions except that the seat puts me too far back to push into turns without having to really get over bars.

  139. #539
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    ^^^Flip chip in the 'hi' position steepens everything.

    Just wrapped up some riding in BC on the Atlas, set up with:

    Reverb dropper
    specialized phenom saddle
    740mm carbon bars
    RF Atlas stem
    i9 23.5mm wheelset
    e*13 TRS+ cassette
    28T oval chain ring
    next sl cranks
    130mm Revelation
    XT brakes
    XT pedals
    XT derailleur + shifter
    2.35 forekaster up front, 2.2 forekaster out back

    25.8 lbs all in.

    Could be a touch slacker for my descending tastes, and yes the saddle could be a pinch more forward - but not enough to warrant changing bikes. Really like the split pivot suspension.

    After an 'adventure ride' with some mud, and the BC riding, I now have a pretty good creak - going to do the debonair can upgrade and throw in the enduro bearings and see what that gets me.

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    ^^^Flip chip in the 'hi' position steepens everything.

    Just wrapped up some riding in BC on the Atlas, set up with:

    Reverb dropper
    specialized phenom saddle
    740mm carbon bars
    RF Atlas stem
    i9 23.5mm wheelset
    e*13 TRS+ cassette
    28T oval chain ring
    next sl cranks
    130mm Revelation
    XT brakes
    XT pedals
    XT derailleur + shifter
    2.35 forekaster up front, 2.2 forekaster out back

    25.8 lbs all in.

    Could be a touch slacker for my descending tastes, and yes the saddle could be a pinch more forward - but not enough to warrant changing bikes. Really like the split pivot suspension.

    After an 'adventure ride' with some mud, and the BC riding, I now have a pretty good creak - going to do the debonair can upgrade and throw in the enduro bearings and see what that gets me.

    Thanks. I should have been more clear with my question. Which orientaton is it that is the 'hi' setting? I had figured hi was the steeper setting with higher bb. If you have a picture of yours with it in either hpost that would be super helpful.
    Since I am asking qustions I found recently that the bike is a little bit flexy. It is only 10-20 rides old and never ridden in wet as it is a clay sold which is akin to concrete in the wet. There's been alot of talk about bearings, but I feel it is smooth in terms of shock action. Maybe I just never noticed it before or maybe I'm just giving it a little more in the turns. Anyne feel that there's was flexy even with good bearings.

  141. #541
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    Devinci Atlas Carbon-capture-d-cran-2013-10-23-2.30.54-pm.jpg

    With the 130mm fork, I run it in the low position at all times, since the fork is effectively raising the BB.

    I don't find it flexy, but I also only weigh about 165 lbs. If anything is going to flex, it's going to be the Revelation and/or wheelset. For an XC bike it's pretty stout. Much beefier than any of the other 90-110mm travel frames that I've seen. It's not a trail bike though, if that's what you're comparing it to.

  142. #542
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    Has anybody else cracked their's? I found a crack where the bb she'll meets the frame on the drive side last night.

    Pretty gutted to be honest, we've been through alot together.

  143. #543
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    Those frames were so overbuilt, I didn't think that was possible.
    On a positive note, I bet you get a new Django replacement.

  144. #544
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    Perhaps but should they decide to warranty it then I'm hoping they have an Atlas in a backroom somewhere as I can't imagine the django can ride as well andone it definitely doesn't look as good.

    Failing that I'll push for a Marshall as I would love the option to run 29+. I've got a surly krampus and it's wicked good fun.

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by slugrider View Post
    Has anybody else cracked their's? I found a crack where the bb she'll meets the frame on the drive side last night.

    Pretty gutted to be honest, we've been through alot together.
    That's unfortunate! Can you post a picture of the crack?

  146. #546
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    Here it is, not great photos as light is bad in my workshop.

    I also spoke to a guy with the same problem on his but on the other side.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devinci Atlas Carbon-2017_0518_120358_004.jpg  

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-2017_0518_120407_005.jpg  


  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by slugrider View Post
    Here it is, not great photos as light is bad in my workshop.

    I also spoke to a guy with the same problem on his but on the other side.
    That sucks but hopefully you'll get a replacement from Devinci. Going to check mine now! What year is your frame?

  148. #548
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    I could use some advice..

    I have an opportunity to buy a 2013 Devinci Carbon Atlas frame and rebuilt rear shock for a good price and wonder if it's worth it. Does the 2013 still stand up to the newer frames?

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    I could use some advice..

    I have an opportunity to buy a 2013 Devinci Carbon Atlas frame and rebuilt rear shock for a good price and wonder if it's worth it. Does the 2013 still stand up to the newer frames?
    Have had mine almost 4 years (4000 miles) and plan on keeping for quite a while longer, its my light trial bike (XC bike on steroids). This is still a great bike/frame and you would not be getting much more with the newer trail bikes that are out there (boost, little slacker HA ect..??).

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-bike.jpg

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    I could use some advice..

    I have an opportunity to buy a 2013 Devinci Carbon Atlas frame and rebuilt rear shock for a good price and wonder if it's worth it. Does the 2013 still stand up to the newer frames?
    "Worth it" depends on the price. I love mine, it's a great XC bike. Frame geometry has continued to evolve a bit past where this frame is, but it's as good today as it was when first released. If I had the opportunity to stretch mine another 20mm in reach and slacken the head angle, I would. Bu I'm still happily riding it and have no thoughts of doing otherwise.

  151. #551
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    Thanks for all the help. On the 2014 carbon the flip chip is hidden under the 8mm hex bolt. I just went ahead and loosened it off and changed it over. I guess I am old school because I prefer how it handles now. I think it gives the seattube enough steepness to help cornering on more level ground and the head angle is not too steep. We don't have alot of tech features out here so no need to go to slack on HA. Also, the 'wigglyness' I mentioned previously is the wheel. The stan's flow on hope 2 is good, but I think I was comparing lateral stiffness to the carbon tubular rims I have on my XC bike. Obviously there's a huge difference there. Very happy with the bike for what it is. My blackcat 29er beats it in every way except technical descents, but that is to be expected for a race ready set up in a land with no tech features. With 110mm of rear and 120mm of front I get good, but not great speed and have no issues with the features we do have.
    To 'slugrided', sorry about the crack. That sucks. There are carbon repairers I hear.
    They are really good for customer service I think. Hopefully they do right by you.

  152. #552
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    I would probably buy again if the price was right. I hugely lucked out on mine and paid 750$ brand new from someone who didn't need it though. Yeah me. The main thing to watch out for is that they are quite short in the top tube. At 6'1" I am always between a L and XL in past bikes, but I got an XL in this one and I am definitely pushing the envelope between needing an XXL (not that they made those). Basically, they have a short top tube even by 2013 standards. I think slackness and longness has gone too far though. I like steeper seat tube angles and relatively slack head angles, but things are very very slack and perhaps too long now I feel.

  153. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    "Worth it" depends on the price. I love mine, it's a great XC bike. Frame geometry has continued to evolve a bit past where this frame is, but it's as good today as it was when first released. If I had the opportunity to stretch mine another 20mm in reach and slacken the head angle, I would. Bu I'm still happily riding it and have no thoughts of doing otherwise.
    Well I'm in Canada and everything is more expensive here, but it's about $600-650USD. I already have a 2013 Devinci Atlas Aluminum frame with rebuilt rear shock that I bought for about $300USD, but when the carbon frame came up, I was very interested. The more confident I ride, the more I wonder if the Atlas is even "traily" enough for me, but I do believe the carbon is more slack than the aluminum frame and offers a bit more travel.

    Would the aluminum atlas frame work with a 140mm front fork or is that just pushing it?

  154. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    Well I'm in Canada and everything is more expensive here, but it's about $600-650USD. I already have a 2013 Devinci Atlas Aluminum frame with rebuilt rear shock that I bought for about $300USD, but when the carbon frame came up, I was very interested. The more confident I ride, the more I wonder if the Atlas is even "traily" enough for me, but I do believe the carbon is more slack than the aluminum frame and offers a bit more travel.

    Would the aluminum atlas frame work with a 140mm front fork or is that just pushing it?
    I believe the aluminum and carbon have identical geometry. The archive page for Devinci shows them as equal. Same for travel.

    Devinci offered the Atlas with a 140mm fork, so it's OK from there point of view. Personally, the seat tube is too slack at 120 and I wouldn't. That's a somewhat personal decision though.

    I personally wouldn't spend the money just to go from aluminum to carbon given your description. I'd look for a more trail oriented bike and put the money towards that.

  155. #555
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    Seatangle at 140mm was interesting to say the least, going down it worked just fine but doing climbs and stretches of flat with it was less than stellar.

    Given the choice again I'd look into a different frame if going with more travel than 120mm.

  156. #556
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    140mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    Well I'm in Canada and everything is more expensive here, but it's about $600-650USD. I already have a 2013 Devinci Atlas Aluminum frame with rebuilt rear shock that I bought for about $300USD, but when the carbon frame came up, I was very interested. The more confident I ride, the more I wonder if the Atlas is even "traily" enough for me, but I do believe the carbon is more slack than the aluminum frame and offers a bit more travel.

    Would the aluminum atlas frame work with a 140mm front fork or is that just pushing it?
    I think that between 2013 and 2014 they did change the geometry slightly. I do not believe itwas a carbon/aluminum distinction, however, as your aluminum is 2013 and I assume that the carbon you are looking it is >=2014 that might be the difference. Assuming I am recalling correctly.

    I am also in Canada. I am just very good at finding deals and driving down to the states to get the stuff (back when I lived nearer the border).

    There is a post from hmorsi higher up in this page that has a post of one with a 140mm fork so perhaps ask him. They did say on their site at the time that 100mm for race, 120mm for trail and 140mm for the gravity oriented. I am happy at 120mm for the most part.

    On a separate and related note I don't know the shock length and stroke. I played with my psi today and it kept the o-ring just at the end of travel, but didn't feel much better. I am tempted to go with a Manitou McLoed as I have seen others posting about, but of course need to get the right dimensions. So far google only brought me here. Anyone know?

  157. #557
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    Using these two sites as reference

    The complete guide to mountain bike geometry - MBR

    MTB Frame Geometry Explained - Mountain Biking Australia magazine

    I feel that the effective seattube angle is actually closer to 74. I put an angle finder app on my phone and got 74 or 75 using this method.

    The effective seattube angle goes from a line that intersects the seastpost in a horizontal line from the stem measured to the BB.

    Because it is an interrupted seattube with the seat insertion angle sitting slacker than the downtube it appears very slack, but I honestly don't think it is. So, I am going to put mine back into Lo and see if it still climbs as well which I think it will actually.

    The next thing to do would be to change out the tyres from the maxxis ardent I have to the HansDamf and see if that makes a difference on flat ground in terms of how I accelerate and hold speed.

  158. #558
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    Does anyone know what minimum steerer fork tube length I need to fit a 2013 Atlas large aluminum frame?

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by osakana View Post
    I think that between 2013 and 2014 they did change the geometry slightly. I do not believe itwas a carbon/aluminum distinction, however, as your aluminum is 2013 and I assume that the carbon you are looking it is >=2014 that might be the difference. Assuming I am recalling correctly.

    I am also in Canada. I am just very good at finding deals and driving down to the states to get the stuff (back when I lived nearer the border).

    There is a post from hmorsi higher up in this page that has a post of one with a 140mm fork so perhaps ask him. They did say on their site at the time that 100mm for race, 120mm for trail and 140mm for the gravity oriented. I am happy at 120mm for the most part.

    On a separate and related note I don't know the shock length and stroke. I played with my psi today and it kept the o-ring just at the end of travel, but didn't feel much better. I am tempted to go with a Manitou McLoed as I have seen others posting about, but of course need to get the right dimensions. So far google only brought me here. Anyone know?
    The shock size is 165x38mm.

    A 140mm fork works perfectly for my purposes on my 2015 aluminium Atlas. I wouldn't want the bottom bracket any lower where I ride. I don't notice it any massive adverse effects on climbing and I go up some steep trails. I've raced it in XC and enduro events, and while it isn't the perfect bike for either discipline, I have it set up for fun, versatility and reliability over perfection in one type of riding, and the appeal of the Atlas is exactly that.

  160. #560
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    It's a 2015

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    Does anyone know what minimum steerer fork tube length I need to fit a 2013 Atlas large aluminum frame?
    Anyone?

  162. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babylondown View Post
    Anyone?
    If you're not in a hurry I can measure for you on my 2015 alloy Atlas, but I don't have access to my bike until Wednesday.

  163. #563
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    Would anybody be interested in buying an atlas carbon frame?

    Whilst waiting for a warranty decision on mine I bought another so shortly I will have two, one medium and black and white, one large Matt black and red/yellow (brand new front triangle/seat stay/chain stay)

    I'm in the UK if anyone is interested?

  164. #564
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    Iĺve been riding my 2013 Atlas carbon RX with original Easton wheels and 2.2 XC race tires. I still love the bike and donĺt see any reason to justify dropping 5Gs on a new ride for at least another 5 years.

    Iĺll be upgrading it to 1 x 11 and the new i9 Trail 270 wheels 27mm inner / 30 outer.

    I also want to use more aggressive trail tires as the race tires donĺt always cut it on my local trails, lots of roots, loose over hard terrain not too many rock beds bet enough to slice a tire now and then.

    What max size have you been able to fit? Devinci told me the max is 2.2 but that is incorrect for sure. I know 2.4 works, has anyone tried 2.5 or even 2.6?

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geotrouvetout67 View Post
    I also want to use more aggressive trail tires as the race tires donĺt always cut it on my local trails, lots of roots, loose over hard terrain not too many rock beds bet enough to slice a tire now and then.

    What max size have you been able to fit? Devinci told me the max is 2.2 but that is incorrect for sure. I know 2.4 works, has anyone tried 2.5 or even 2.6?
    I habve max is ardent 2.35 front and back. The rims are Stan's and are an older version. Not sure exactly inner width but a newer wider width rim would make a difference to the ballooned out tyre width achievable. Our soil is clay which means moisture = cake batter. In dry I have issues with tyre clearance. In wet it rapidly adds an inch. My guess would be 2.4 max if you get a little bit of muck.

  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geotrouvetout67 View Post
    Iĺve been riding my 2013 Atlas carbon RX with original Easton wheels and 2.2 XC race tires. I still love the bike and donĺt see any reason to justify dropping 5Gs on a new ride for at least another 5 years.

    Iĺll be upgrading it to 1 x 11 and the new i9 Trail 270 wheels 27mm inner / 30 outer.

    I also want to use more aggressive trail tires as the race tires donĺt always cut it on my local trails, lots of roots, loose over hard terrain not too many rock beds bet enough to slice a tire now and then.

    What max size have you been able to fit? Devinci told me the max is 2.2 but that is incorrect for sure. I know 2.4 works, has anyone tried 2.5 or even 2.6?
    I tested mine out the other day with Maxxis Aggressors 2.5WT front and back from my other bike and they worked without any issues, it was very tight maybe 2/2.5mm clearance on each side and did not hear or feel any rubbing during the ride. This was in dry desert conditions.

    The Aggressors 2.5WT measure out right at 63mm/2.5" on 32mm innner rims. Probably get away with 2.5s on 27mm rims in dry conditions (won't have much mud clearance), 2.6 will be a no go.

  167. #567
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    Ok so 2.4 is probably the safest max, I think Iĺll give a try to the Maxxis Ardent 2.4, thanks for contributing.

  168. #568
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    2.35 nobby nic did fit on my '13 with ok clearance

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-img_1667_zpsy9jiguwf.jpg

  169. #569
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    I'm running 2.4" Continental Trail Kings on my '13, mounted onto Stans Arch EX. The little whiskers from the injection process buzz the chainstays and the fork arch. Not a lot of room but no rubbing. Mud will cause a problem for sure. I have spare 2.2" and 2.3" for those days...

  170. #570
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    Cool, nice set up

  171. #571
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    I see so maybe 2.35 is better than 2.4 then.

  172. #572
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    I'll give a shot to the Bontrager XR4 Team 2.3 that should fit no problem and improve grip.

    Edit: ended up opting for the Vittoria Brazo 2.35, should be putting them to test in about 2 weeks.
    Last edited by Geotrouvetout67; 06-04-2018 at 08:41 AM.

  173. #573
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    Hi guys.
    I'm excited to join the Atlas club. Albeit, now in 2018 I bought a used 2014 carbon RC frame that I'm building up now. I'm mostly into XC and maybe some more aggressive XC/trail in southern Ontario so this seems like a good fit.

    Questions:
    1. There was some discussion on the seat angle. I do a bunch of climbing and if I put the chip in high, do people find that they are over the cranks enough to do seating climbing when you want to spin it out?
    2. I've got the large frame, I believe the reach is somewhere like 435mm in the high position. With my 5.11" build, what stem lengh do you think I should run? My previous bike was a 2015 carbon hardtail with reach of 460mm though and I was running 90mm stem. Although that bike was clearly intended for race geo, where the Atlas seems a bit more like trail/relaxed Xc (and I think i like a slightly more upright position).

    Thanks for your help guys! Will post pics once I have it built up.

  174. #574
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    The Atlas forum is not super active as you can see, makes sense since the model has been discontinued.

    I think your comment about being XC/trail oriented is correct, especially the RX version with 110/140mm travel, I do have a very upright "relaxed" position on it which I like a lot. I would not do crazy jumps or DH parks with it but it's very capable in technical terrain.

    I have the 2013 carbon RX model, it's such a great bike I am currently converting it to 1x11, replacing the OEM wheels with a set of i9's and just found out the shop was not able to rebuild the Reverb seatpost so I'm replacing that with a new Fox Transfer. I could have bought a medium level new bike for the cost of that upgrade but I will keep that bike for a long time, I still have my previous MTB which is now 29 years old and use it as a hybrid for casual family rides.

    My stem is the original Easton 60 mm and it works great for me but I ride mostly flat technical trails (Massachusetts), very little climbing.

    I am 5'11" as well and I have a medium frame, I never felt I needed anything larger, the bike feels quite large to me.

    Edit: I'm actually 5'8" not 5'11", could not remember, it's wrong on my DL... so you should be fine with the large frame.

    Actually the Reverb that came with the bike was a 125 mm, I'm now going with a 100 mm as the high position was always too high and the low position was always too low.

    I'm also reducing the crank length from 175 original to 170. Where I ride there are tons of rocks and pedal strikes are too common.

    About the seat angle, I'm sure there is some kind of science under it, it's definitively important for roadies. For me the only thing that counts is that my butt does not hurt and that will be the best angle for it.
    Last edited by Geotrouvetout67; 06-05-2018 at 07:26 AM.

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerfisher11 View Post
    Hi guys.
    I'm excited to join the Atlas club. Albeit, now in 2018 I bought a used 2014 carbon RC frame that I'm building up now. I'm mostly into XC and maybe some more aggressive XC/trail in southern Ontario so this seems like a good fit.

    Questions:
    1. There was some discussion on the seat angle. I do a bunch of climbing and if I put the chip in high, do people find that they are over the cranks enough to do seating climbing when you want to spin it out?
    2. I've got the large frame, I believe the reach is somewhere like 435mm in the high position. With my 5.11" build, what stem lengh do you think I should run? My previous bike was a 2015 carbon hardtail with reach of 460mm though and I was running 90mm stem. Although that bike was clearly intended for race geo, where the Atlas seems a bit more like trail/relaxed Xc (and I think i like a slightly more upright position).

    Thanks for your help guys! Will post pics once I have it built up.
    Look foward to pics. I am 6'1+ a bit and ride the XL. I think you should size as big as you can. I find it just right for the seated climbing. Sometimes I feel it is smaller side for desceding. Not sure that that makes sense. I ride 60mm stem because I had it. I recall reading it was designed around a 60-70mm stem, which seems right to me. I live in Sask and I find with the right seat angle (saddle on post, not seat tube) I can climb very well. Obviously not big long climbs, but they do tend to like their steep climbs here (why prairie people like to assert their mtbike prowess with tough climbs is beyond me but there you have it). I ride in the high position with 120mm travel fork. Currently I changed to 100mm travel fork for more xc, but it has a higher axle to crown on it so essentially the same riding position. I just wanted to try the manitou tower which I am really enjoying actually.
    Anyway, good climber in high, no worries about seattube angle. 60-70mm stem all good. I've enjoyed with 100 and 120mm travel forks

  176. #576
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    Thanks for your feedback on the seattube angle, I believe you have put my fears away on that one.
    As for sizing, I'm looking forward to having the bike built up to give it a go. I don't mind a more upright seated position but as you mentioned, I'll see what it's like descending (I don't do epic descents anyway, but I'm curious to find out how it handles cornering while descending too).

    My current roadblock is to get the right fork for the build. I'm open to suggestion, definitely want to try it with a 120mm fork. I found out my current Reba RL won't extend travel to 120mm so that has stalled the building process temporary. I'm finding it harder to get a non-boost fork than I thought it would be.

    Pics coming soon!

  177. #577
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    I hate when the industry is coming up with new stuff and is discontinuing the old so you can't repair your bike. I just put new wheels, my fork is 100 mm, it would drive me crazy if I had to get my front wheel rebuilt and replace the hub when I need to change the fork. Or I could use a spacer kit as well.

    For example I recently found out that SRAM does not make parts anymore for my only 5 years old Reverb seatpost, bastards! I had to buy another one but I bought Fox this time.

    This being said, unless you have wheels already why could you not install a 110 mm wide fork?

  178. #578
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    Good call on that.
    The main reason for not putting the 110mm fork is that my fork is 100mm currently and would cost about $200 CAD for my shop to replace the air spring to get to 110mm.

    At that price I was thinking to put the money towards a proper 120mm fork (but I suppose worse case I can just run the 100mm).

    How do you find the 100mm fork affects the geo on your bike? I'm planning on running it in the HIGH setting on the flipchip.

    Thanks again.

  179. #579
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    My bike came with 100 mm and 140mm of travel from the factory (Revelation fork).

    I have recently flipped the rear setting for the first time to check what happens, honestly I could not tell the difference, some people say it makes a huge difference, really?

    I don't think the impact on the geo is of any significance between 100 and 110, all boost does is adding 10mm width in the fork, you gain lateral rigidity with a 110 mm hub but it's not changing any angle. A 100mm hub will remain centered with two 5mm spacers on each side or no spacers if you use a boost front wheel.

    Now if the bike was designed for 120 mm travel and you install your old 100/110mm fork, it may impact it. Good or bad I have no idea. You may ask Devinci. They are slow to respond by email (2 weeks?) but they respond or better yet just give them a call. Going with the $200 rebuild is still a lot cheaper than a new fork like the Pike RC.

  180. #580
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    I just realized that my Industry Nine Torch hubs can be easily converted to boost, yeah...

    I did not know, makes me feel that I made the right choice with i9.
    On the front wheel it just requires replacing the end caps and costs only $30. The rear is more expensive of course but cheaper than a new wheel at $180.

    This is great to know for folks who are thinking about new wheels on their non boost bike, the i9 wheels will be compatible with a boost upgrade down the road, like needing to replace the fork. The rear matters less other than using the old wheels on a new boost frame.

  181. #581
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    Can you please post a couple pictures of how you were able to access and switch the flip chip from low to high?
    I found where it is but I don't know how to access/manipulate it.

    Thanks!

  182. #582
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    Here's a video on the Django

    https://youtu.be/p2v_aAUrzl8

    On the Atlas, at least mine, it unscrews normally, not reversed as he says in that video in the case of the Django.

    I found it was easier to not completely unscrew it, doing on side at a time that way was pretty easy.

  183. #583
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    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2224399/

    I have a 44 micro Ti which is internally adjustable 100-120-140. Have run it in 100 with no troubles. Have serviced and set to 120 which I think I will love. Will keep in high setting for 120mm I think to avoid too much slackness. Marz told me that they were not a great year fork when I got it used and took it in for a service, howver, that was due to the fact that they need sercvice more often. So, now I actually service my fork instead of just complaining about how it needs service.

  184. #584
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    Quick update,
    I think I found my fork - a 2017 Rockshox Revelation 120mm with the RTC3 damper installed. Going to pick it up tomorrow and then get to work building it up. Pics later this week I promise!

    Thanks for the vid on the flip chip, I tried yesterday to unscrew the bolts with my park tool multitool but couldn't get the bolt to budge (probably need a proper tool for the job). I might just leave it and let my shop do the adjustment when I get them to swap the parts from my hardtail onto it as well.

    Can't wait to see this frame built up.

  185. #585
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    Don't be afraid to run it in the low setting with that fork. You're raising the BB with the 120mm fork. I found the trade of the slacker head angle and lower bb was well worth the slacker seat angle. Unless you like real twitchy steering, that's my vote. The shorter chainstays keep it pretty nimble.

    FWIW I was running a 70mm stem, 130mm fork chip in low. Bars were....740? Something like that. Even on some super steep climbs in CO and BC, I was able to scootch forward enough on the seat to stay sitting and climb.

  186. #586
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    I used a basic allen key on mine and it worked fine but it was super tight the first time I did it. Plus I was not sure which way since it's reversed on the Django and it turned out it's not on my bike. Hope everything works out.

  187. #587
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    Good feedback B Rock.
    Thanks.

    Bar width will be something else I have to play with. Right now I'm planning running a 90mm stem with 720mm wide flat bar.
    I think I'd actually prefer a wider bar, like a 740 or 760 and then get away with the 70mm stem.

    I'll try it in both high and low and see how it rides for my type of trails. My main concern is the reach number, but as was already pointed out here, that might be okay seated, just worried about the reach while standing on the pedals and I think the high position may help a bit there?

  188. #588
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    Valid point on reach, the low setting will increase that. I had a large at 6'0" and have a long torso, so yours may fit differently.

    You can always move the seat forward a bit or decrease the stem length though. This was my xc bike, so keeping the bb low for cornering was a priority for me vs a higher bb on my trail bike for pedal/chainring strikes. I was actually going to knock the fork down to 120 but lost the air spring....so at 130 it stayed.

  189. #589
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    140mm Offset: 46mm vs 51mm?

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Mine in the wild:


    No issues climbing with a 140mm fork, this is probably the best bike I've ever ridden. It's as good or better than these new fangled hyped 29er trailmachines that's been recently released. (The hype is warranted so don't get your panties in a bunch )
    What offset are you running with 140mm fork?

  190. #590
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    Finally got mine built up.
    Used the Revelation fork set to 120mm 51deg offset with the RCT3 upgrade.
    Took it on its first ride yesterday and loving the setup.

    My fears of the reach/geo were unfounded as it fit quite well for my 5.11" frame, seated and standing on pedals (but I"m using a 90mm stem and will probably keep that until I get a wider bar, current bar is 720mm).
    Devinci Atlas Carbon-35761494_1360604187404756_6145779857600020480_n.jpg

  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by clifford213 View Post
    What offset are you running with 140mm fork?
    I don't have the bike anymore, but the fork is 51mm

  192. #592
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    Thought I would leave this here considering it's winter. Still ride my 2014 Atlas Carbon but not in the winter anymore. RWC needle bearing on the rear shock top mount helped quite a bit with the creaking but it still creaks on other joints when it's dirty.

    Devinci Atlas Carbon-atlascarbonwinter.jpg

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