Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Hey everyone,

    I own a Giant XTC 3 2013 carbon frame model. So basically I noticed this creaking sound last summer when I would sprint. Not sure what the problem may be. I had my local bike mechanic take apart the headset and cleaned it out. He cleaned it out, and replaced the headset bearings. Even with that done, it still creaks.

    Today I took the bike out quickly after bleeding the brakes. Did a few test runs up and down my street. Again, when sprinting, the creaking sound is heard. I do have a Fox 120mm fork on it. When I bought the bike, it came with a 100mm fork. Giant did say the bike is designed for 120mm as well, just don't go any further. Of course, going over 100mm, my warranty is no longer effective.

    When I lock out the fork, that's when I hear it more. Each pedal revolution I make, is when I hear it. Obviously when I sprint, the bike is swayed back and forth on an angle. Also, the noise seems to come from the head-tube area.

    Hopefully someone out there has come across this issue before, and can possibly guide me to the right direction on why this is occurring. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Thank you
    Last edited by cabralkev; 03-08-2015 at 12:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    Creaking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Could be your fork crown. Fox has had a bunch of forks get warrantied for creaks in the steerer tube/crown press fit in the last year or two.


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  3. #3
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    Really? I have the 2014 Talas 120mm fork. It was brand new last year when I got it. So the crown could be the issue you think? Again the creaking does only happen when I sprint and sway the bike left and right. That and I did notice when using the front brakes while the fork is locked out, the creaking is heard but subtle. When I heard the sound coming from the headtube area of the frame, it did worry me. Hopefully it's the fork and not the carbon frame already giving out on me :S

  4. #4
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    Fork crown, headset, seatpost and bottom bracket are all common places for creaks to come from.

    You say that the bike creaks with your 120mm fork when you have it locked out and you are sprinting.... Since I am not real familiar with Fox forks if you put it into a threshold mode (trail) and sprint does it still creak? Did it creak before you had the 120mm fork?

    Also realize that unless you specifically have been able to replicate the sound while your ear was right next to that area does not mean that it is necessarily coming from there. Sounds can resonate through the frame and be emitted from different areas than they originate so while you are heading coming from the headtube area it could really be coming from you bb or seatpost and just SOUND like it is coming from there.

    Ultimately there are three major points of pressure when you are sprinting, your headset/headtube are, the fork which contact to the ground and your bottom bracket (assuming you are standing, I know dumb thing but there are people that consider sprinting also being something where they are seated and pedaling at max rpm).
    So then to narrow down, does the creak come from ALL pedal strokes? Meaning both when your right and left foot are at the bottom of the stroke and you are leaned to that side or not? If not, then which side.
    From there you would try to narrow down other variables like wheel flex, fork flex, etc and see if you can further drill down to an approximate area.

  5. #5
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    Hmm now I'm confused Haha. Well as sprinting goes, I do stand and go max rpm that way. If it was my seatpost, I wouldn't know how to correct that. The seatpost is clamped down with a quick release clamp. I put carbon paste and clamped the seatpost in, but not so tightly of course.

    Also I noticed something... If I hold the bike on an angle, and put pressure on 1 pedal, the creek is heard once again. I do remember the bike mechanic last summer telling me, he hopes it's not the BB. Knowing that it's a press fit, it's a bit expensive to replace. Would the BB cause the creek even if the bike is stationary, by putting pressure on 1 pedal while having the bike on an angle?

  6. #6
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    I had a similar creak on my Niner One 9 RDO induced under hard pedaling and sprinting. I was able to make the noise when stationary and applying force to the cranks. Since I had read a lot of talk about creaking EBBs on Niners my thoughts went instantly to the EBB/BB. I tried a lot of suggested methods to quiet the creak which didn't work. When I damaged my frame and had it replaced the creaking persisted. It was a new EBB/BB, headset etc but my existing wheels. I then thought about it a bit more and stripped and re-greased my rear hub and bearings. Creak was gone and has stayed gone for 500kms. It was a dry rear hub/bearings.
    This could be your issue. It is relatively simple to inspect and re-grease your freehub and bearings.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jas76 View Post
    I had a similar creak on my Niner One 9 RDO induced under hard pedaling and sprinting. I was able to make the noise when stationary and applying force to the cranks. Since I had read a lot of talk about creaking EBBs on Niners my thoughts went instantly to the EBB/BB. I tried a lot of suggested methods to quiet the creak which didn't work. When I damaged my frame and had it replaced the creaking persisted. It was a new EBB/BB, headset etc but my existing wheels. I then thought about it a bit more and stripped and re-greased my rear hub and bearings. Creak was gone and has stayed gone for 500kms. It was a dry rear hub/bearings.
    This could be your issue. It is relatively simple to inspect and re-grease your freehub and bearings.
    You replaced your bottom bracket and the creaking disappeared? Maybe thats the issue I have. My bottom bracket might need replacing. If the bike is stationary and still creaks when it's on an angle while I put pressure on 1 pedal, then it has to be the bottom bracket. What is a good BB I can buy?

    The free hub was actually cleaned out and re-greased last summer. Last year when I was cleaning my bike, a bit of de-greaser found it's way into the bearings. When I rode, it felt as if there was sand inside the bearings. What an awful feeling it was!

  8. #8
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    My money's on the BB but check for hairline cracks in frame as well. As AP said, sound travels. Hopefully it's not a stress fracture somewhere, good luck!
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    You replaced your bottom bracket and the creaking disappeared? Maybe thats the issue I have. My bottom bracket might need replacing. If the bike is stationary and still creaks when it's on an angle while I put pressure on 1 pedal, then it has to be the bottom bracket. What is a good BB I can buy?

    The free hub was actually cleaned out and re-greased last summer. Last year when I was cleaning my bike, a bit of de-greaser found it's way into the bearings. When I rode, it felt as if there was sand inside the bearings. What an awful feeling it was!
    No the creaking persisted when I replaced the BB. 😊
    I suppose the point I'm trying to make is it may not be the BB. I would inspect both bb and hub bearings. Even try swapping the wheels if you have a spare set or a friend's set that fit. A wheel swap will very quickly isolate whether it's hub bearings or not. If the creaking continues then most likely the BB.
    Noise travels on the frame and it's amazing how often it's somewhere you don't expect.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeIntelligencer View Post
    My money's on the BB but check for hairline cracks in frame as well. As AP said, sound travels. Hopefully it's not a stress fracture somewhere, good luck!
    Am I able to check for stress fractures myself, or do I need a specialist? There's no cracks that I can see outside of the frame though.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jas76 View Post
    No the creaking persisted when I replaced the BB. 😊
    I suppose the point I'm trying to make is it may not be the BB. I would inspect both bb and hub bearings. Even try swapping the wheels if you have a spare set or a friend's set that fit. A wheel swap will very quickly isolate whether it's hub bearings or not. If the creaking continues then most likely the BB.
    Noise travels on the frame and it's amazing how often it's somewhere you don't expect.
    Hmm then I need to bring in the bike and have the mechanic look at it. Hopefully it's not expensive to fix, whatever it is. I always think the worse and think the carbon frame is broken haha... Hopefully not...

  12. #12
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    I have a carbon 29er its not a giant but ill bet it similar. I was tracking down creaking and mine was from my headset cups ( which i fixed by tightening the top cap a little more as it was slightly under the torque specs.

    Also my bike has some internal cable routing and my inner cable will tend to pop a little and that can cause a creaking sound. Also check your seatpost and make sure its lubed or whatever you like to do with your post. Check the seat rails as well creaking happens a lot in those areas. I wouldnt worry about the frame CF is pretty stout.
    2014 27.5" SC Blur TRa:cool: - 2014 IP-106 Chiner 29er :nono: - 2005 Fuji Team SL 16.2lbs -:thumbsup:

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
    I have a carbon 29er its not a giant but ill bet it similar. I was tracking down creaking and mine was from my headset cups ( which i fixed by tightening the top cap a little more as it was slightly under the torque specs.

    Also my bike has some internal cable routing and my inner cable will tend to pop a little and that can cause a creaking sound. Also check your seatpost and make sure its lubed or whatever you like to do with your post. Check the seat rails as well creaking happens a lot in those areas. I wouldnt worry about the frame CF is pretty stout.
    I'll try tightening up the top cap a little more, see if that helps.

    Reason why I was stressing out over the carbon frame is because the bike came with a 100mm fork. Giant did say the bike is designed for 120mm, but I can't go over it. Even at 120mm, I voided warranty. If 20mm extra would cause the frame to weaken around the headtube, that would be ridiculous... Hopefully it's not the case. How much abuse can carbon frame take before they fail?

  14. #14
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    This is my bike. The fork was switched to the 120mm fox talas ctd. I took this image from google, so the components are different. Other than the components, the frame is exactly the same. Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting-imag0164.jpg

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    I'll try tightening up the top cap a little more, see if that helps.

    Reason why I was stressing out over the carbon frame is because the bike came with a 100mm fork. Giant did say the bike is designed for 120mm, but I can't go over it. Even at 120mm, I voided warranty. If 20mm extra would cause the frame to weaken around the headtube, that would be ridiculous... Hopefully it's not the case. How much abuse can carbon frame take before they fail?
    I wouldnt think that 20mm is going to stress that headtube much more. If you think about it would giant make the headtube so weak that 20mm would break it...I certainly think not. If your headset has internal cups like mine that creak could be from that...but you said that you had already checked for that.
    2014 27.5" SC Blur TRa:cool: - 2014 IP-106 Chiner 29er :nono: - 2005 Fuji Team SL 16.2lbs -:thumbsup:

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
    I wouldnt think that 20mm is going to stress that headtube much more. If you think about it would giant make the headtube so weak that 20mm would break it...I certainly think not. If your headset has internal cups like mine that creak could be from that...but you said that you had already checked for that.
    Well the headset was removed last summer and bearings were swapped. Maybe he didn't tighten down the top cap a bit more? Who knows... I guess before summer hits I'll take the bike in see what they say. Might go to a different bike shop and get their opinion over the creak.

  17. #17
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    What bottom bracket would you guys recommend? Anything under $200 please. If it is my bottom bracket, then I'll replace it. That's if the mechanic tells me it's the problem of course. Plus I did notice last summer my crank jammed up randomly :S. I'd pedal, then all of a sudden it would jam and make a clunk sound and it would stop after. I assume the bottom bracket is on it's way out? The one currently installed is SRAM GXP, Press Fit.

  18. #18
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    The creaking on my Stumpy hard tail was from the derailleur dropout but sounded more like the centre of the frame.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    What bottom bracket would you guys recommend? Anything under $200 please. If it is my bottom bracket, then I'll replace it. That's if the mechanic tells me it's the problem of course. Plus I did notice last summer my crank jammed up randomly :S. I'd pedal, then all of a sudden it would jam and make a clunk sound and it would stop after. I assume the bottom bracket is on it's way out? The one currently installed is SRAM GXP, Press Fit.
    I don't know about this jam and clunk thing, never heard of that. Usually when the bottom bracket goes out it's just noisy and eventually it will develop some play. What crankset do you have?

    As far as BB replacements for the bike being expensive, that's a popular myth. The sealed cartridge square tapers were expensive. You could easily spend over $100 just getting a run of the mill BB for those. For an identical replacement, you're looking $40 tops.

    SRAM Pressfit GXP Bottom Bracket MTB > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Bottom Brackets | Jenson USA

    Of course, you can spend almost $200 on a ceramic version if you want to, but I still think people using ceramic bearings on bikes are being played, personally.

  20. #20
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    Maybe I was mistaking from creaking to ticking sounds. Was just cleaning out my front wheel area, where the hub is. Whipped it down with some rubbing alcohol, then put a few drops of lube on the outside of the hub. I even put grease on the quick release rod that goes inside the hub. Put it back on the bike. I stepped on 1 pedal once again, put the bike on an angle, and applied pressure. All I hear is a tick or cracking sound coming from the front of the bike. Not sure if it's located at the headtube area again :S. I'm so frustrated, I don't know where it's coming from. It can't be the carbon already cracking on me can it?

  21. #21
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    My seatpost has a quick release on it. Not sure if that's an issue and causing the cracking sound or ticking sound? I don't have the quick release on to tight. It's enough where I can remove it with ease.

  22. #22
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    Carbon frames are notoriously hard to diagnose the origin of creaks I've found.
    Just asking, but have you checked:
    Pedals,
    Chainring bolts,
    Rear cassette,
    Rear mech,
    Cranks,
    QR / through axles (lubed?)
    Cleats on your shoes,
    Spring tension on your pedals,
    Dérailleur hanger,
    Stem bolts?


    The bottom bracket is a very strong suspect but don't rule other sources out. Good luck!

  23. #23
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    Did you check the top cap on your steer tube? Make sure that's torqued right. Also, check your front axle. I don't know about the Fox axles, but RS's 15mm TA can loosen up all by itself. And the first sign it's getting loose is usually a ticking noise that happens a long time before it's really loose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Did you check the top cap on your steer tube? Make sure that's torqued right. Also, check your front axle. I don't know about the Fox axles, but RS's 15mm TA can loosen up all by itself. And the first sign it's getting loose is usually a ticking noise that happens a long time before it's really loose.
    What is the torque level usually? I don't want to tighten it tightly and it snaps.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    What is the torque level usually? I don't want to tighten it tightly and it snaps.
    The headset top cap does not have a torque associated with it. Its an adjustment, it needs to be just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. Any tighter than that and it could prematurely wear out the bearings.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    The headset top cap does not have a torque associated with it. Its an adjustment, it needs to be just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. Any tighter than that and it could prematurely wear out the bearings.
    Oh, hm... Well the mechanic guy last year put the headset back together. So he tightened it up how it should I suppose. Maybe it's my reverb seatpost. I'm thinking of getting rid of it, and going for a simple seatpost. I loosened up the seatpost clamp a bit, I'll test it out and see if the cracking, ticking, sound happens again.

  27. #27
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    Mate, sounds like you are all over the show here.
    Creaking/Cracking?Ticking noises are a hard thing to diagnose as noise can travel through a frame and sound like it is coming from somewhere other than where it is occurring.
    I also have noticed you are referring to stuff that the mechanic has "already" done "last year". One thing I have learnt is parts can wear or require servicing at varying intervals and just because a part was only serviced a few months ago doesn't necessarily mean to rule it out.
    I think you need to start from scratch and first of all ask yourself - are you mechanically sound enough to track down this noise? This isn't a dig, just a valid question because if you are a bit unsure, then its best to get your mechanic to do this for you.
    Ok, so if the answer is yes, then start by limiting yourself to the most obvious culprits to make the noise. The way you do this is look at the symptoms. You mentioned that the noise only occurs when sprinting or applying pressure through the pedals when stationary. Unless you are forcing down on your bars when stationary, this rules out forks or headset as your downward momentum will be through pedals, crank, BB and drivetrain. To make sure, check your body action whilst replicating the noise when stationary and make sure you aren't putting any force through the bars. Sprinting means you are out of your seat so this eliminates the seatpost and saddle too. Assuming you have thoroughly inspected the frame for cracks (seat and chain stays, down tube, top tube, head, BB shell and seat) I would start with pedals. Remove and grease and reinstall. Noise still there?
    Remove your crank, feel the BB. Does it move freely? No grinding or crunching? If you are able to remove, regrease and reinstall the BB, great, do this. Replace it if its crunching. Reinstall your cranks, regreasing as you go. Noise still there?
    Ok, if you can swap out your rear wheel try this and see if the noise is still there, if not, disassemble your freehub, check bearings and replace/regrease as necessary.
    It will be one of these 3 areas if it is making the noise whilst stationary and applying pressure through the pedal.
    I hope this helps.

  28. #28
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    Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    The headset top cap does not have a torque associated with it. Its an adjustment, it needs to be just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. Any tighter than that and it could prematurely wear out the bearings.
    I find that I have to go a little tighter than just eliminating play, otherwise the headset creaks.

  29. #29
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    Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    Hmm now I'm confused Haha. Well as sprinting goes, I do stand and go max rpm that way. If it was my seatpost, I wouldn't know how to correct that. The seatpost is clamped down with a quick release clamp. I put carbon paste and clamped the seatpost in, but not so tightly of course.

    Also I noticed something... If I hold the bike on an angle, and put pressure on 1 pedal, the creek is heard once again. I do remember the bike mechanic last summer telling me, he hopes it's not the BB. Knowing that it's a press fit, it's a bit expensive to replace. Would the BB cause the creek even if the bike is stationary, by putting pressure on 1 pedal while having the bike on an angle?
    If it is creaking when standing, it's not the seatpost, saddle, or clamp.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    If it is creaking when standing, it's not the seatpost, saddle, or clamp.
    I loosened the quick release for the seatpost, and it didn't correct the cracking/ticking sound. So you are right on that. I'll tighten back the seatpost quick release clamp again. I'm so frustrated with it lol... I suppose I can try tightening up the top cap a bit more. Maybe to 5nm, unless it's already at that torque level.

  31. #31
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    Also, I'll try and remove my pedals and clean the threading that goes into the crank arms. Unless it's best for me to remove the pedals bearings and clean them, then regrease?

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    Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    Also I noticed something... If I hold the bike on an angle, and put pressure on 1 pedal, the creek is heard once again. I do remember the bike mechanic last summer telling me, he hopes it's not the BB. Knowing that it's a press fit, it's a bit expensive to replace. Would the BB cause the creek even if the bike is stationary, by putting pressure on 1 pedal while having the bike on an angle?
    Pull the seatpost out, remove the pedals, do the bike on angle, push on crank arm test.
    Remove the crank arms, do the test pushing on the bottom bracket.
    Remove the bottom bracket (if possible), test again.

    Maybe get someone to stick their ear against the frame in different places and see if the creak gets louder in certain areas.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Pull the seatpost out, remove the pedals, do the bike on angle, push on crank arm test.
    Remove the crank arms, do the test pushing on the bottom bracket.
    Remove the bottom bracket (if possible), test again.

    Maybe get someone to stick their ear against the frame in different places and see if the creak gets louder in certain areas.
    Once Spring hits and it gets a bit warmer out, I'll take the bike to the shop and see what they have to say about it. I know a different shop, which is a little further than my house. They are really known to be good, so hopefully they can figure it out. I'd do it myself, but I'd rather have someone who's more knowledge than me and has the tools

    The cracking/ticking sound when applying pressure to the frame doesn't mean the frame is damaged right? Like I mentioned above, it happens when I sprint off the saddle. So instead of riding and hearing it, I put the bike on an angle and apply pressure to one pedal. Then the noise is heard again. Hopefully the carbon frame isn't on it's way out

  34. #34
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    Cracking or ticking sound coming from carbon frame when sprinting

    Quote Originally Posted by cabralkev View Post
    I loosened the quick release for the seatpost, and it didn't correct the cracking/ticking sound. So you are right on that. I'll tighten back the seatpost quick release clamp again. I'm so frustrated with it lol... I suppose I can try tightening up the top cap a bit more. Maybe to 5nm, unless it's already at that torque level.
    As long as the stem is tightened and the headset adjusted, you can actually remove the top cap and top spacers. Try that to see if the creaking stops.

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