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  1. #9601
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASiameseCat View Post
    Dang, thanks for the insight.
    Whoa hang on, I don't know what just happened. I was goofing around on a supplier's site I've never been to and discovered this:

    ACEBIKE sell high end and price reasonable 29er Hardtail Light Carbon MTB Bicycle Frames.

    External rear brake routing on a carbon frame. How about that?

  2. #9602
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    I hate internal routing for rear brake lines. Derailleur is no big deal but with brake fluid, it's a pain.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  3. #9603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny7 View Post
    I hate internal routing for rear brake lines. Derailleur is no big deal but with brake fluid, it's a pain.
    I don't disagree.

    Routing my rear brake is the one and only thing I have my local mechanic do, other than mounting fat tires to oversized carbon 80mm rims. I think he secretly dreads me

  4. #9604
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I don't disagree.

    Routing my rear brake is the one and only thing I have my local mechanic do,
    I'm the same way. Do you ever get any side eye/attitude from the LBS about bring in a chinese direct frame?
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  5. #9605
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Whoa hang on, I don't know what just happened. I was goofing around on a supplier's site I've never been to and discovered this:

    ACEBIKE sell high end and price reasonable 29er Hardtail Light Carbon MTB Bicycle Frames.

    External rear brake routing on a carbon frame. How about that?
    How it should be! Gotta have the external brake line.

  6. #9606
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Whoa hang on, I don't know what just happened. I was goofing around on a supplier's site I've never been to and discovered this:

    ACEBIKE sell high end and price reasonable 29er Hardtail Light Carbon MTB Bicycle Frames.

    External rear brake routing on a carbon frame. How about that?
    Cool, looks like that brand has another frame option with external brake routing!

  7. #9607
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny7 View Post
    Do you ever get any side eye/attitude from the LBS about bring in a chinese direct frame?
    Ha! More than just a side eye I'm kind of seen as not loyal and loyal in the same breath. My bikes are always referred to as "that bike," or "the black one". They always have to ask "where did you get this" or "are you sure it's real" (not counterfeit). I really wonder what they think when I race in their team apparel to the podium not on a bike they sell.

  8. #9608
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASiameseCat View Post
    Cool, looks like that brand has another frame option with external brake routing!
    So just so everybody knows, ACE is a subsidiary of Yishunbike. Of all the Chiner brands (based on what I've read), Yishun has one of the poorest customer satisfaction rates, around 20% dissatisfaction based on some polls on roadbikeforums and Alibaba/Aliexpress feedback.

    They do their own manufacturing in their own facility and I believe also manufacture for ICAN. They advertise well and make good products when they're good, but have poor quality control and bad aftersales service which leaves quite a few customers very disgruntled. I've read a few sob stories where their customer service department was unwilling to fulfill warranty requests until after being brought to the PayPal bar of justice, after which they consistently responded unprofessionally.

    P.S. This does not mean ICAN is bad, they have excellent quality control and unmatched aftersales service.

  9. #9609
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    Hi all- got sucked into the rabbit hole of this thread, and getting some ideas. Stick with me...

    I have a '17 Kona Rove that I use mainly for neighborhood cruises with the family and Burly towing. Been thinking about getting something flat bar for more relaxed family rides.

    Looking at the following 2 items from BXT:
    Frame:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016...352e3c00b3k7Xh
    Fork:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BXT-...352e3c00b3k7Xh

    Lots of parts from the Rove should be transferrable- 700c wheels with 40c tires, 73mm MTB crankset, Rival 1x11 with 11-42 cassette, seat post, etc. Plus, I have a set of Guide RS take-offs I'll use for brakes. Really just need a stem, bar, and shifter to complete the build.

    Any issues that you guys can see in this plan? Hoping for a light(ish), more upright bike for light duty use.
    '19 Yeti SB150
    '19 Specialized Chisel

  10. #9610
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    Thats a great idea! Now I got sucked into it too! I like how the frame comes with different dropouts and several small parts are included. Not sure if your Rove has convertible wheels, but if you could convert to thru axle front and rear (which would mean a different fork from what you listed) that would be a pretty sweet flat bar/cross setup.
    Silly bike things happening.

  11. #9611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    Not sure if your Rove has convertible wheels, but if you could convert to thru axle front and rear (which would mean a different fork from what you listed) that would be a pretty sweet flat bar/cross setup.
    The hubs aren't convertible unfortunately- HED Belgium Plus rims laced to older 100/135 QR XTR hubs. But the frame looks to accommodate QR, and that's why I selected that specific fork.

    Trying to keep my costs in check and re-use parts wherever possible!
    '19 Yeti SB150
    '19 Specialized Chisel

  12. #9612
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    Quote Originally Posted by DETarch View Post
    Hi all- got sucked into the rabbit hole of this thread, and getting some ideas. Stick with me...

    I have a '17 Kona Rove that I use mainly for neighborhood cruises with the family and Burly towing. Been thinking about getting something flat bar for more relaxed family rides.

    Looking at the following 2 items from BXT:
    Frame:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016...352e3c00b3k7Xh
    Fork:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BXT-...352e3c00b3k7Xh

    Lots of parts from the Rove should be transferrable- 700c wheels with 40c tires, 73mm MTB crankset, Rival 1x11 with 11-42 cassette, seat post, etc. Plus, I have a set of Guide RS take-offs I'll use for brakes. Really just need a stem, bar, and shifter to complete the build.

    Any issues that you guys can see in this plan? Hoping for a light(ish), more upright bike for light duty use.
    I actually sold a Tideace frame almost just like that to a guy looking to do exactly what you're doing. It works, you may need a new bottom bracket and headset to finish the build. Hint: look on Aliexpress for cheap deals on star nut-based headsets (don't use the stock expander headsets as they tend to disengage and won't hold your steerer down worth anything). If you're getting a stem and bar, I'd get a Kalloy stem from eBay and a Tideace Aliexpress carbon bar (or similar), just don't tension bolts on anything that clamps to those bars past 5 N-m since that's how 99% of those bars break (that advice applies to any carbon bar). These cockpit items will make for a lightweight and comfortable ride and are quite affordable.

    Rival 1x11 is great, I actually run some of those components. Are you going to pair your Rival derailleur with a trigger shifter? I don't think that will work. Wait, are you doing drops or flat bars? Flat bars are cheaper in the long run bc shifters are cheaper.

    It looks for your purpose that a CX frame might actually be more suitable. Have you thought about getting a budget CX carbon frame from Aliexpress?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017...748566553.html

    If you message the seller directly they may be able to give you quick release rear dropouts.

    You can also convert the front to quick release with a thru-axle shim.

  13. #9613
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I actually sold a Tideace frame almost just like that to a guy looking to do exactly what you're doing. It works, you may need a new bottom bracket and headset to finish the build. Hint: look on Aliexpress for cheap deals on star nut-based headsets (don't use the stock expander headsets as they tend to disengage and won't hold your steerer down worth anything). If you're getting a stem and bar, I'd get a Kalloy stem from eBay and a Tideace Aliexpress carbon bar (or similar), just don't tension bolts on anything that clamps to those bars past 5 N-m since that's how 99% of those bars break (that advice applies to any carbon bar). These cockpit items will make for a lightweight and comfortable ride and are quite affordable.

    Rival 1x11 is great, I actually run some of those components. Are you going to pair your Rival derailleur with a trigger shifter? I don't think that will work. Wait, are you doing drops or flat bars? Flat bars are cheaper in the long run bc shifters are cheaper.
    Planning on flat bar, thats why I want 29er geometry. Drop bar bikes get funny geometry- particularly reach-when converted, otherwise Id just convert the Rove!

    SRAM MTB and road shifters/derailleurs play nice together (unlike Shimano), so I was going to get a GX 11 speed shifter.

    Thanks for the insight on the Aliexpress cockpit parts!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '19 Yeti SB150
    '19 Specialized Chisel

  14. #9614
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    So I'm thinking of swapping a workswell frame for my specialized camber(2015). Nothing on it is stock except the cranks and BB.
    Has anyone had experience with one of these frames in a Large BSA configuration?
    I am planning on making it my NICA XC race bike and gravel/cross bike.

  15. #9615
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    Any 29 frames with internal routing for dropper post?

  16. #9616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liternit View Post
    Any 29 frames with internal routing for dropper post?
    Yes, there are lots of options! Are you looking for a hardtail or a full-suspension frame? XC, Trail, All-Mountain? What tire/wheel size (27.5+, 29...) and what size front chainring do you want to fit up front? Any strong preferences as to geometry?

  17. #9617
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Yes, there are lots of options! Are you looking for a hardtail or a full-suspension frame? XC, Trail, All-Mountain? What tire/wheel size (27.5+, 29...) and what size front chainring do you want to fit up front? Any strong preferences as to geometry?
    Hardtail, 29", Tires 2.2/2.3, XC/Trail, more update geometry slacker HA steeper seattube,

  18. #9618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liternit View Post
    Any 29 frames with internal routing for dropper post?
    Yes. I ride a MB-01. I has cable routing for a front derailleur, but I run a 1X front ring, so my dropper cable is run in place of the front derailleur cable. Most all of the Chinese frames have front cable routing for a front derailleur which means there is a route from the head tube, through the down tube, and into the seat tube.

  19. #9619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liternit View Post
    Hardtail, 29", Tires 2.2/2.3, XC/Trail, more update geometry slacker HA steeper seattube,
    Have a look at this new model:

    2019 Newest MTB Mountain Bicycle Carbon Frame 29er Boost FM199-B-SL--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司

    It fits a 36T chainring, has XC-oriented geometry very similar to the Scott Scale, and is impressively lightweight and high-quality. It will run your 29x2.3 tires just fine and is definitely on the progressive end of the spectrum geometry-wise when looking at all catalog frames.

    I'm building up a frame identical to this except with 15mm longer chainstays and fits 29+ tires:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...e-1089063.html

    It's great quality and I shipping lead time is super fast. It should be in stock.

  20. #9620
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    Hi, looking to build up a second bike to use on some smoother trails where there is lots of climbing but nothing too aggressive on the descent.

    Im aiming for an enduro-ish hardtail which will pair with a 140 front fork and hopefully a rear that will accomodate 29x2.5 or 2.6. Id prefer something in Large size that has a long-ish top tube. Does anyone have a link to a frame that would fit the bill for the requirements?

  21. #9621
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    Hi, looking to build up a second bike to use on some smoother trails where there is lots of climbing but nothing too aggressive on the descent.

    Im aiming for an enduro-ish hardtail which will pair with a 140 front fork and hopefully a rear that will accomodate 29x2.5 or 2.6. Id prefer something in Large size that has a long-ish top tube. Does anyone have a link to a frame that would fit the bill for the requirements?
    I'm not sure why you'd want that much front travel if you're looking for efficient climbing and mild descending. Wouldn't a Fox 34 and 120mm travel fit your needs better?

    Thing is, there aren't a lot of "enduro-ish" hardtails designed around that much front travel let alone catalog carbon frames. I'm not personally aware of any. You can always throw a longer fork on a hardtail frame but then you'll get a slacker head tube angle and even less efficient climbing.

    I'd recommend getting a Trail-oriented hardtail and slapping a 120mm travel fork on there.

  22. #9622
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I'm not sure why you'd want that much front travel if you're looking for efficient climbing and mild descending. Wouldn't a Fox 34 and 120mm travel fit your needs better?

    Thing is, there aren't a lot of "enduro-ish" hardtails designed around that much front travel let alone catalog carbon frames. I'm not personally aware of any. You can always throw a longer fork on a hardtail frame but then you'll get a slacker head tube angle and even less efficient climbing.

    I'd recommend getting a Trail-oriented hardtail and slapping a 120mm travel fork on there.
    Nukeproof has been making these frames for 2-3 years. Guess Ill just buy one of them, not carbon but at $399 for the 2019 model I can deal. I was curious if rhe chinese companies had spotted these and made anything like it.

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod170324

  23. #9623
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    Nukeproof has been making these frames for 2-3 years. Guess Ill just buy one of them, not carbon but at $399 for the 2019 model I can deal. I was curious if rhe chinese companies had spotted these and made anything like it.

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod170324
    Yeah, I know there's stuff out there like you describe, but I can't think of one Chiner hardtail that has similar geometry from the dozen+ companies I'm familiar with. You could definitely get a custom-made Ti frame for under $800, but then you might as well just go get a Nukeproof in terms of weight vs. cost.

  24. #9624
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    re running a QR rear axle: my kids BXT came with replaceable dropouts, one for QR and one set for thru axle. I started the build with QR, but the dropouts are thicker/wider than my other bikes, and it would have required a longer QR skewer, - which is not impossible to find and I think would have worked fine. The wheels we used have Hope Evo2 hubs, so it was easier to convert to through-axle. - My kid is still really happy with the BXT, it turned out really great (see my posts way above from a few months ago).
    The two BXT seatposts we're running have been perfect, and I did put a set of BXT bars on an old Klein 26er, I haven't ridden it hard yet, but it seems very solid so far.

    I wouldn't be surprised if several frame brands have very similar 'thick' dropouts.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  25. #9625
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    Hi, looking to build up a second bike to use on some smoother trails where there is lots of climbing but nothing too aggressive on the descent.

    Im aiming for an enduro-ish hardtail which will pair with a 140 front fork and hopefully a rear that will accomodate 29x2.5 or 2.6. Id prefer something in Large size that has a long-ish top tube. Does anyone have a link to a frame that would fit the bill for the requirements?
    You are in the wrong thread. Unlikley the Chinese will make an AM HT anytime soon because everything I've seen from them is quite dated.
    Formerly Travis Bickle

    Team Robot. "modulation is code for I suck at brake control. Heres a free tip: get better."

  26. #9626
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    Yeah, they're real responsive. I'll send an email, "Have you considered making an updated frame with this geo?" They'll reply, "Sorry sir we don't make a frame like that" lol.

  27. #9627
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    You are in the wrong thread. Unlikley the Chinese will make an AM HT anytime soon because everything I've seen from them is quite dated.
    I don't completely disagree, but this is changing. There are a few manufacturers who have recruited designers in touch with recent trends in terms of reach, HTA, and frame weights. There are several fresh full-suspension designs that have either arrived or are soon to arrive that are not dated at all.

    As more and more big-brand designers are snatched by factories you'll see more and more progression directly from factory and catalog offerings.

  28. #9628
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    You are in the wrong thread. Unlikley the Chinese will make an AM HT anytime soon because everything I've seen from them is quite dated.
    I dunno, seems like I am in the right thread, I did get my answer after all ;-)

    I have watched as the chinese rim tech has ramped up to be on par with the same wheel sets being sold here for 2-3x the price, including things like ranges of rim width to map to wider tire sizes. So I was just curious if the companies had done this for frames, hard tails in particular.

    The nukeproof frame is a good option, but it seems heavier than needed, so even built up with carbon wheels, etc it is never going to be as light as a carbon frame would be. And at $399 it seems like a (lighter) chinese carbon frame could be made at the same price point.

  29. #9629
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    So cool, dude. Do you have a riding feedback? Stiff?

  30. #9630
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    Hi, looking to build up a second bike to use on some smoother trails where there is lots of climbing but nothing too aggressive on the descent.

    Im aiming for an enduro-ish hardtail which will pair with a 140 front fork and hopefully a rear that will accomodate 29x2.5 or 2.6. Id prefer something in Large size that has a long-ish top tube. Does anyone have a link to a frame that would fit the bill for the requirements?
    Why not add a little travel? ICAN P-8 will fit the bill. use 29er carbon wheels w/40mm outside width. And utilize platform feature on your rear shock. I have one set up with 140mm fork and offset bushings on the shock to drop the head angle a degree or so.

  31. #9631
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    I dunno, seems like I am in the right thread, I did get my answer after all ;-)

    I have watched as the chinese rim tech has ramped up to be on par with the same wheel sets being sold here for 2-3x the price, including things like ranges of rim width to map to wider tire sizes. So I was just curious if the companies had done this for frames, hard tails in particular.

    The nukeproof frame is a good option, but it seems heavier than needed, so even built up with carbon wheels, etc it is never going to be as light as a carbon frame would be. And at $399 it seems like a (lighter) chinese carbon frame could be made at the same price point.
    You're only looking for a hardtail, right?

    I just realized the Heller Shagamaw is specced with a 130mm fork, and Heller frames are all open mold. I think I recollect seeing this frame hanging around some websites, you just gotta check.

    I don't think you'll find a frame advertised for 130mm of travel, but you can always run the calculations and see what geometries you are willing to work with. See what Heller came up with and how that compares to advertised geo, I haven't looked.

  32. #9632
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    You're only looking for a hardtail, right?

    I just realized the Heller Shagamaw is specced with a 130mm fork, and Heller frames are all open mold. I think I recollect seeing this frame hanging around some websites, you just gotta check.

    I don't think you'll find a frame advertised for 130mm of travel, but you can always run the calculations and see what geometries you are willing to work with. See what Heller came up with and how that compares to advertised geo, I haven't looked.
    If anyone finds a similar open mold frame out of China I'd be interested in checking it out.

  33. #9633
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    Just saw tan tan has 2019 fm036 it looks perfect for the wifes new ride. Thinking 27.5 in small with 34sc light build.and 2.6 recons. Waiting for price quote from tantan on frame.

  34. #9634
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    Quote Originally Posted by global View Post
    Just saw tan tan has 2019 fm036 it looks perfect for the wifes new ride. Thinking 27.5 in small with 34sc light build.and 2.6 recons. Waiting for price quote from tantan on frame.
    Same as the LCSF902 https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcar...frame_p11.html

    Should be a great frame!

  35. #9635
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    Thanks sissypants I emailed them for a quote also. Wife wants pink to purple fade paint. 🤔

  36. #9636
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    Be careful with fading between two different colors, get the wife what she wants but it may disappoint when you get it. These painters tend to go for abrupt transitions even if you try to convince them otherwise.

    I might suggest doing a sparkly metallic purple or pink solid color. Just tell the agent you want glitter in the paint. That will always impress and it looks really sharp

  37. #9637
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    Thanks for the info sounds like a good idea.

  38. #9638
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    Ordered my wifes tan tan 2019 fm036 with sissypants help. Now the build starts. I have light 29Id carbonfan wheelset with dt350 boost hubs may go with bontrager 27.5 by 2.6 xr2 tires. She weighs 99lbs. Trying to decide on fork Im thinking 120mm. Any ideas and offset? She rides road six days a week and is strong but will be starting mountain biking.

  39. #9639
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    Quote Originally Posted by global View Post
    Ordered my wifes tan tan 2019 fm036 with sissypants help. Now the build starts. I have light 29Id carbonfan wheelset with dt350 boost hubs may go with bontrager 27.5 by 2.6 xr2 tires. She weighs 99lbs. Trying to decide on fork Im thinking 120mm. Any ideas and offset? She rides road six days a week and is strong but will be starting mountain biking.
    If she is short i would use a 100 mm but depending where she rides, personal preferences 120 might be right.

  40. #9640
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    Hi all, I have been reading as much as possible about Chinese Carbon frames, and think I am about to pull the trigger on one to build up and came across this one:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Susp...AbTest=ae803_3

    It has the geometry and travel I am looking for (modern, slack, long) and a good price.

    Anyone see any major red flags (other than it just being a Chinese carbon frame) ?

    Thanks!

  41. #9641
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    A rider i know got an XL fatbike frame and realized it is too long.
    Make sure you can avoid that mistake.
    22 months ago i bought a used carbon HT mountain, no sticker and i love it, great components and price and no surprise about size/fit.

  42. #9642
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    A rider i know got an XL fatbike frame and realized it is too long.
    Make sure you can avoid that mistake.
    22 months ago i bought a used carbon HT mountain, no sticker and i love it, great components and price and no surprise about size/fit.
    Thanks 33red. I'm 6' so the 19.5 should be OK, but I'll try and mock-up the reach based on the specs.
    Cheers!

  43. #9643
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    Are you sure you want a bike with 457mm chainstays? These days, that is a bit long. I am after a mid travel 29er frame and ruled this one out due to the long back end. I look for something around 440, which would handle better.

  44. #9644
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    Are you sure you want a bike with 457mm chainstays? These days, that is a bit long. I am after a mid travel 29er frame and ruled this one out due to the long back end. I look for something around 440, which would handle better.
    I was wondering about that, but honestly, I probably can't tell the difference between that and the 22mm shorter chainstays on the RM Instinct Carbon 70 I test rode. With the travel and proper HA and STA I think it'll be OK. Can I ask what frame you are looking at? Trying to weigh all the options.

  45. #9645
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffdahl99 View Post
    I was wondering about that, but honestly, I probably can't tell the difference between that and the 22mm shorter chainstays on the RM Instinct Carbon 70 I test rode. With the travel and proper HA and STA I think it'll be OK. Can I ask what frame you are looking at? Trying to weigh all the options.
    I haven't yet found the chiner frame that fits my requirements, or is too new.

    The ICAN p8/p9 seem to be the more popular mid-long travel frames, but their geometry is arguably a bit old now, the rear ends too long (esp the p9), or the ha too steep (esp the p8) etc.

    I did consider the fm08 (27.5er Plus/ 29er Boost Carbon All Mountain Full Suspension Frame--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司 ), which seems to somewhat be a copy of the instinct you mention, but this one seems to be a bit new, and I haven't found anyone who has one built up. As a 29er, the BB may be a bit high. Could still be a goer.

    The latest one to appear looks promising: https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-full...rizontalTab022
    This one has less travel, but I am more after this amount of travel, but maybe with a slightly longer fork (~140mm). With such fork the angles would be pretty good (under 67 ha, and an effective seat angle not far below 75). The rear end isn't quite as short as preferred, but the reach looks good and I reckon the BB height would be in the ball park, and it is good to see a threaded BB shell. Another one that is too new though - need to see some built up.

  46. #9646
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    I haven't yet found the chiner frame that fits my requirements, or is too new.

    The ICAN p8/p9 seem to be the more popular mid-long travel frames, but their geometry is arguably a bit old now, the rear ends too long (esp the p9), or the ha too steep (esp the p8) etc.

    I did consider the fm08 (27.5er Plus/ 29er Boost Carbon All Mountain Full Suspension Frame--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司 ), which seems to somewhat be a copy of the instinct you mention, but this one seems to be a bit new, and I haven't found anyone who has one built up. As a 29er, the BB may be a bit high. Could still be a goer.

    The latest one to appear looks promising: https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-full...rizontalTab022
    This one has less travel, but I am more after this amount of travel, but maybe with a slightly longer fork (~140mm). With such fork the angles would be pretty good (under 67 ha, and an effective seat angle not far below 75). The rear end isn't quite as short as preferred, but the reach looks good and I reckon the BB height would be in the ball park, and it is good to see a threaded BB shell. Another one that is too new though - need to see some built up.
    Both the Light Carbon and TanTan look good, too. Can't find either one on aliexpress, though. Do you have to contact them directly? Happen to know the price/availability?

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    Check out some the chinertown forums. There are a couple threads on these frames:
    DengFu M08
    Light Carbon LCFS937
    There are also other threads about other frames sold by these vendors, which may give you some more ideas on how to deal with those vendors.

  48. #9648
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffdahl99 View Post
    Both the Light Carbon and TanTan look good, too. Can't find either one on aliexpress, though. Do you have to contact them directly? Happen to know the price/availability?
    I 100% agree with sclyde2. If you're looking for a modern, slack, and long frame that blurs the boundary between trail and all-mountain (the "downcountry" thing), I'd recommend the LCFS937:

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-full...2019_p118.html

    The mold was opened a few months ago, and it sports all the modern angles you'd expect in a long and slack frame, not to mention killer looks. That frame has 130mm of travel in the rear and would work well with 130-140mm of travel in the front. You'll get a progressive 70-degree seat angle and a slack 67 degree head angle. As sclyde2 points out, not a lot of folks have posted about this frame, but sales have been strong already and the designers clearly knew what they were doing.

    If you're looking for an all-mountain option, again I second the 150mm travel TanTan frame:

    27.5er Plus/ 29er Boost Carbon All Mountain Full Suspension Frame--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司

    You'll get a slack 66.5 head angle and a 68.5 seat tube angle. It also has great tire clearance (27.5+, 29x2.6).

    When buying from China, you'll want to get in touch with the factories directly and ask for their best price. AliExpress is often more expensive, and sellers are less responsive. Be aware of Chinese New Year coming up in February. You'll want to get the ball rolling ASAP. Their holidays could delay your order by up to a month.

  49. #9649
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I 100% agree with sclyde2. If you're looking for a modern, slack, and long frame that blurs the boundary between trail and all-mountain (the "downcountry" thing), I'd recommend the LCFS937:

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-full...2019_p118.html

    The mold was opened a few months ago, and it sports all the modern angles you'd expect in a long and slack frame, not to mention killer looks. That frame has 130mm of travel in the rear and would work well with 130-140mm of travel in the front. You'll get a progressive 70-degree seat angle and a slack 67 degree head angle. As sclyde2 points out, not a lot of folks have posted about this frame, but sales have been strong already and the designers clearly knew what they were doing.

    If you're looking for an all-mountain option, again I second the 150mm travel TanTan frame:

    27.5er Plus/ 29er Boost Carbon All Mountain Full Suspension Frame--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司

    You'll get a slack 66.5 head angle and a 68.5 seat tube angle. It also has great tire clearance (27.5+, 29x2.6).

    When buying from China, you'll want to get in touch with the factories directly and ask for their best price. AliExpress is often more expensive, and sellers are less responsive. Be aware of Chinese New Year coming up in February. You'll want to get the ball rolling ASAP. Their holidays could delay your order by up to a month.
    I don't think you understand basic frame geometry, or you're confused by seat tube angles for some reason, but your post contains some pretty bad advice.

    There's nothing progressive about a 70* seat tube angle. The only reason the reach on that bike looks acceptable, is because the seat tube angle is so relaxed that you're gunna feel like you're on a recumbent bike because you're very far behind the bottom bracket.

    "Progressive" geo would be a steep STA with a longer front-center, giving you the longer reach you need, with a slacker front end.

    Notice how drastic it is compared to the LCSF902 frame that you linked a week ago? And that would be considered traditional geometry, not progressive.

  50. #9650
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    There's nothing progressive about a 70* seat tube angle. The only reason the reach on that bike looks acceptable, is because the seat tube angle is so relaxed that you're gunna feel like you're on a recumbent bike because you're very far behind the bottom bracket.

    "Progressive" geo would be a steep STA with a longer front-center, giving you the longer reach you need, with a slacker front end.

    Notice how drastic it is compared to the LCSF902 frame that you linked a week ago? And that would be considered traditional geometry, not progressive.
    Got it, not sure what I was thinking but that makes sense. I suppose those angles would put it in the fun-and-rowdy camp especially on the descents, and not so much a steed for racing or climbing?

  51. #9651
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    The EFFECTIVE seat tube angle on both those frames is around 75 degrees. The actual seat tube angle, which is far less relevant, is around 70 degrees

  52. #9652
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    The EFFECTIVE seat tube angle on both those frames is around 75 degrees. The actual seat tube angle, which is far less relevant, is around 70 degrees
    When you sit on a bike, you're sagging both ends for effective measurements, you don't just sag one end. The STA would be slacker if only the rear compressed and the fork was static. The STA would be steeper if only the fork compressed.

    If you're seeing a 75* effective STA, then that effective HTA just became old school xc.

    I'm not seeing progressive geometry here at all. I am genuinely curious where you found the effective STA though. I'm on mobile and that site loads pretty bad for android. Thanks!

  53. #9653
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    Yeti calls out "Effective Seat Tube Angle" in their geo. as a line from the seat attachment to the center of the BB. The SB130 has an effective sta of 77 and an (estimated based on my measurements in bluebeam) of 72. Both are still steep but different. I suppose you could have a seat mounted on a horizontal bar (remember the softride?) and get an eff sta of 74, right? So it's about getting your center of mass over the pedals and centered in the bike, right?

  54. #9654
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    When you sit on a bike, you're sagging both ends for effective measurements, you don't just sag one end. The STA would be slacker if only the rear compressed and the fork was static. The STA would be steeper if only the fork compressed.

    If you're seeing a 75* effective STA, then that effective HTA just became old school xc.
    dunno why you are confusing the issue with all this talk about measuring it sagged...

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffdahl99 View Post
    Yeti calls out "Effective Seat Tube Angle" in their geo. as a line from the seat attachment to the center of the BB. The SB130 has an effective sta of 77 and an (estimated based on my measurements in bluebeam) of 72. Both are still steep but different. I suppose you could have a seat mounted on a horizontal bar (remember the softride?) and get an eff sta of 74, right? So it's about getting your center of mass over the pedals and centered in the bike, right?
    yeah what he said.

    googling effective seat angle, 1st result is: https://www.bikecad.ca/effective_seat_tube_angle

    this is the imaginary line between the BB and the middle of the top of the seatpost (at around the saddle height that the frame was designed for, which is around about level with the top of the head tube). the convention is to measure this unsagged. as it seems that most of the brand name bike makers seem to measute this way, this is the best way to compare frame geometry.

    the 75 degree seat tube angle of those chinese frames is very much in line with the top end frames of 2018. it is only now that some brands are starting to put out 2019 frames with steeper seattubes. the new yetis are very much at the end of the current spectrum.

    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    I'm not seeing progressive geometry here at all. I am genuinely curious where you found the effective STA though. I'm on mobile and that site loads pretty bad for android. Thanks!
    the tantan quotes the an effective seat tube angle of 75 degree angle in their geo chart (see chart in my link above, angle G). for the light carbon frame, if you read the chinertown thread that i linked, you will find some discussion that lightcarbon has quoted the 70 degree angle as the actual seat tube angle (which is not the usual convention), and someone has suggested that the effective seat tube angle is around 75 degrees.

  55. #9655
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I 100% agree with sclyde2. If you're looking for a modern, slack, and long frame that blurs the boundary between trail and all-mountain (the "downcountry" thing), I'd recommend the LCFS937:

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-full...2019_p118.html

    The mold was opened a few months ago, and it sports all the modern angles you'd expect in a long and slack frame, not to mention killer looks. That frame has 130mm of travel in the rear and would work well with 130-140mm of travel in the front. You'll get a progressive 70-degree seat angle and a slack 67 degree head angle. As sclyde2 points out, not a lot of folks have posted about this frame, but sales have been strong already and the designers clearly knew what they were doing.
    For anyone thinking about purchasing from Light Carbon, you might want to reconsider. I bought a LCFS911 months ago that I actually really like. Communication was great with Johnny, shipped in a reasonable time. However, in November, I noticed that the frame had cracked where the linkage attaches to the seat tube. I sent an email to Johnny with pictures asking if they would honor the warranty. On December 13th they said they would produce a new front triangle and ship it to me on the 30th. Heard nothing, so I emailed them on the 2nd of January asking for confirmation, a tracking number, anything. Haven't heard anything since the email on the 13th. So I have been looking around for a new frame to swap all my components to.

  56. #9656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velocyraptor View Post
    For anyone thinking about purchasing from Light Carbon, you might want to reconsider. I bought a LCFS911 months ago that I actually really like. Communication was great with Johnny, shipped in a reasonable time. However, in November, I noticed that the frame had cracked where the linkage attaches to the seat tube. I sent an email to Johnny with pictures asking if they would honor the warranty. On December 13th they said they would produce a new front triangle and ship it to me on the 30th. Heard nothing, so I emailed them on the 2nd of January asking for confirmation, a tracking number, anything. Haven't heard anything since the email on the 13th. So I have been looking around for a new frame to swap all my components to.
    Thanks for sharing your experience, that's good to know! If you haven't heard from them about your order within a reasonable timeframe, I'd send them a link to your post on this thread. I guarantee they care about their reputation here.

    That said, they offer some frames (like the LCFS937) that can only really be bought from them. I tried getting in touch with QYH factory in Jiangsu (who also bought rights to this mold) and they would not consider selling me a frame without a MOQ of at least 10, and then kept it pricey. Gavin from LightCarbon at least was willing to work out some pricing.

  57. #9657
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Thanks for sharing your experience, that's good to know! If you haven't heard from them about your order within a reasonable timeframe, I'd send them a link to your post on this thread. I guarantee they care about their reputation here.

    That said, they offer some frames (like the LCFS937) that can only really be bought from them. I tried getting in touch with QYH factory in Jiangsu (who also bought rights to this mold) and they would not consider selling me a frame without a MOQ of at least 10, and then kept it pricey. Gavin from LightCarbon at least was willing to work out some pricing.
    I plan on giving it maybe another week and then I will post it here. Shame, because I liked the frame.

  58. #9658
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    This thread is useful! Thought I'd chi in with my Chiner (bought before I did much research here and on chinertown):
    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190112_153424.jpg

    I got the frame last summer from a chap who'd bought it from eBay but never built it up. The looks and geometry matches the common Tideace / Spcycle ones around but it has a BSA BB (which I prefer). Unfortunately the top tube cracked on the first serious ride in a way that could only be a manufacturing fault. The original eBay seller had disappeared. I did a DIY repair with a carbon/epoxy kit for fun. I expected to bin the frame afterwards but cautiously started riding again in the autumn and gradually clocked up miles with it. I find the geometry good and the carbon post has enough flex to make it comfortable. So I have ended up being somewhat satisfied with it. I even raced it last weekend.

    The build is Reba RL. TOSEEK carbon bars, post, saddle. Home laced Mavic XC421 rims on Hope Pro 4 front and beefy Kore hub rear (believed to be made by Novatec, with steel freehub to handle my massive power output haha). Just fitted XTR M9000 cranks and Superstar Raptor ring (was originally old M760 XT). Using the Sunrace 11-46 cassette. Got old M785 brakes that have the usual annoying leak/contamination issue. The original freebie BB is still running smoothly but the plastic bearing liner thing is disintegrating.

    After previously vowing never to buy another Chinese frame again I am considering getting a full suspension directly rather than eBay or Ali (seems the problem is buying from intermediaries who disappear).

    Looking out for nice FM258 build photos.

    Edit; looking at other photos here, I am indeed pretty sure it's the same mould (at least) as a Tideace M009. Axle has "m009" on it. If tweaking the geometry I'd probably go an extra 2cm or so on the seat tube so less seat tube sticks out. The 615mm TT is a good fit for me though.

    To answer an earlier question on this thread- I doubt a 34t oval would fit, at least with XTR cranks.
    Last edited by ptd006; 01-14-2019 at 11:35 AM.

  59. #9659
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    I'm really thinking about selling my XM Carbon Speed 057 complete build!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20160818_222213.jpg  


  60. #9660
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    is this BXT fs XC frame new?, or did I miss it somehow? I'll consider this my 'warranty' frame if my current fs frame fails.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BXT-...AbTest=ae803_3
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  61. #9661
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    is this BXT fs XC frame new?, or did I miss it somehow? I'll consider this my 'warranty' frame if my current fs frame fails.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BXT-...AbTest=ae803_3
    It's the first time I'm seeing it! Thanks for the heads up!

    I'm just curious, what makes you like this frame? I haven't had positive experiences with cheap BXT hardtails, higher-end frames may be a different story, however. I was unable to get customer service to return my emails asking for warranty fulfillment due to obvious manufacturer defects.

  62. #9662
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    Probably about a hundred miles on this build!

  63. #9663
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    It's the first time I'm seeing it! Thanks for the heads up!

    I'm just curious, what makes you like this frame? I haven't had positive experiences with cheap BXT hardtails, higher-end frames may be a different story, however. I was unable to get customer service to return my emails asking for warranty fulfillment due to obvious manufacturer defects.
    The XL BXT hardtail I built up for my kids race bike has been perfect, the parts swap was easy and it turned out to be lighter than expected (and my kid is rippin on it), so my experience with BXT was very good.
    I like that suspension design, it 'looks' to me like it would work well (visually pleasing to me?), the design is similar to my current fs bike but with the one piece chain/seat stays (less moving parts to maintain), and it claims to be 69' HT. Also, it's one of the few XLs available; if you're L or smaller you have loads of choices, but there are few XLs.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  64. #9664
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    Also, it's one of the few XLs available; if you're L or smaller you have loads of choices, but there are few XLs.
    Very true. I'm not aware of *any* other similar XLs. Manufacturers often advertise an XL but don't sell it aftermarket or require a MOQ of 10.

  65. #9665
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    I'm thinking about building a budget/sensibly priced fully rigid 29er to use in addition or instead of my gravel bike. I looked around and frame prices are a bit ridiculous so i'd like to try the direct from China stuff.

    I think i'm gonna be perfectly fine with "dated" XC geometry, because I would like to use the bike for... Well, cross country riding. But if possible, i'd like to avoid mile long chainstays.

    I'd like thru axles, a BSA BB if possible, two bottle cage mounts, clearance for 29x2.35s, maybe front derailleur compatibility because i'd consider going back to 2x for this build. For a 1x I think i'd like clearance for a 34T or 36T. Boost or no boost, doesn't matter.

    I'm wondering if you guys have any recommendations or just tips where I should look, what brands I should avoid etc.

    I'm a complete China frame noob, but this thing looks pretty decent to me:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbon-MT...r=563491931834

    If I could get a frame and fork around this price that would be awesome (+ possibe VAT etc of course).

  66. #9666
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    @HollyBoni the frame you linked to looks identical to mine (geometry, looks and features). I have M9000 cranks and a (single) 32t oval ring. I think a 34t *round* would fit but not oval.

  67. #9667
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd006 View Post
    @HollyBoni the frame you linked to looks identical to mine (geometry, looks and features). I have M9000 cranks and a (single) 32t oval ring. I think a 34t *round* would fit but not oval.
    Thanks! How is the tyre clearance in the back?

    Or is 2.35 pretty standard for XC frames?

    I'm thinking about going with an M6000 2x10 groupset. I haven't had a double in a while but the big chainring is a bit further out compared to a 1x, right? I'm guessing a 36/26 or 38/28 should fit.

  68. #9668
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    Does anyone know the max chainring for Tideaces Fm-m009? Think it will except an oval 38 tooth?

  69. #9669
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    @HollyBoni - I am running 2.25" and reckon 2.35" should be OK. If I can pick up a cheap worn one from eBay I'll give it a go (assuming you're not in a rush). I think the double chainset should be fine for the reason you state.


    @panzer103 - as mentioned above my frame has the exact same geometry as the M009 (and even has M009 on the axle), although it didn't come from Tideace. I'm pretty sure a 38t (round) wouldn't fit. In fact I bought a new 38t superstar raptor (for summer racing) that I didn't even bother trying to fit because it looked a non-starter when I saw the limited clearance for 32t oval. Maybe someone else has a more definitive answer.

  70. #9670
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    In the meantime I did some research and realised that cross country tyres tend to end at 2.25 anyways... I'm sure if I really wanted I could run something much bigger just in the front. I've seen people running 2.25s with FDs no problem.

    But another huge issue I found out is that for my country (I live in the EU) the import taxes are ridiculous for bike stuff, like 50-60%... I'm sure a huge box won't slip through customs.
    Now I have to find a suitable frame from a seller that is willing to ship with XDB, which Tideace does, but all their frames are PF30. Oh and XDB shipping is like an extra 100 bucks.

    Dammit!

  71. #9671
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    50-60%?! Ouch. Which country are you in? I thought it should be around 5% import tax then 15-20% VAT.

    I am not condoning it but some sellers will mark it as a lower value.

    Depending on what size you bike-discount.de have some Cube carbon hardtail frames priced competitively with Chiners.

  72. #9672
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd006 View Post
    50-60%?! Ouch. Which country are you in? I thought it should be around 5% import tax then 15-20% VAT.

    I am not condoning it but some sellers will mark it as a lower value.

    Depending on what size you bike-discount.de have some Cube carbon hardtail frames priced competitively with Chiners.
    I live in Hungary. The import tax is normally between 0-12%, and the VAT is 27%. The limits are hilariously low tho, in theory you'd need to pay VAT already if the item costs over like 35 bucks.

    However for certain products that come from overseas there is this extra import tax which is basically a punishment, it's 48.6%. Sadly bikes and bike components fall under this.
    I have no idea what kind of market they're trying to protect. No one makes carbon frames or any kind of bike components here, and pretty much every bike shop and/or webshop sucks. I'm so fed up with them that I order everything from sites like Wiggle, Rosebikes, bike-discount etc.

    I know about those Cube frames, the problem is that all of them use direct mount hangers, i'll look into it if you can convert them to regular RD hangers.
    I also wanted a carbon rigid fork first which is also the cheapest from China, BEFORE import taxes...
    Funny to see this thing sold as Radon:
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...tapered-624739

    Most sellers will put a lower value on the package, but I don't want to risk it. Maybe it would work, or maybe they would ask me for proof of payment, and then i'd be screwed.

    There is also Yoeleo who has a warehouse in Germany, but their frame and fork would be over my budget.

  73. #9673
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    Okay so I think I figured out the best case scenario.

    This frame or something similar, if it pops up in a smaller size:

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...hyellow-711752

    RD hanger:

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...2090-axh-82179

    And a random Chiner fork, which if is under a 170 bucks, i'd only have to pay 27% VAT.

  74. #9674
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    Okay so I think I figured out the best case scenario.

    This frame or something similar, if it pops up in a smaller size:

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...hyellow-711752

    RD hanger:

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...2090-axh-82179

    And a random Chiner fork, which if is under a 170 bucks, i'd only have to pay 27% VAT.
    If you are buying from bike-discount, look at their tires as well. They have great deals on Schwalbe and Continental, and also on a limited selection of Maxxis. I know they have the Ikon 2.35 which I love as an XC tire.

  75. #9675
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    Quote Originally Posted by SqueakyWheel73 View Post
    If you are buying from bike-discount, look at their tires as well. They have great deals on Schwalbe and Continental, and also on a limited selection of Maxxis. I know they have the Ikon 2.35 which I love as an XC tire.
    For sure, I regularly order from here, and i'm going to build the bike from scratch. Although I think the groupset will come from bike24.

  76. #9676
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollyBoni View Post
    In the meantime I did some research and realised that cross country tyres tend to end at 2.25 anyways... I'm sure if I really wanted I could run something much bigger just in the front. I've seen people running 2.25s with FDs no problem.

    But another huge issue I found out is that for my country (I live in the EU) the import taxes are ridiculous for bike stuff, like 50-60%... I'm sure a huge box won't slip through customs.
    Now I have to find a suitable frame from a seller that is willing to ship with XDB, which Tideace does, but all their frames are PF30. Oh and XDB shipping is like an extra 100 bucks.

    Dammit!
    There's lots of 2.35s for XC, this year I (finally) decided on a Ardent 2.4 front and Ardent Race 2.35 rear on my hardtail, I only have about 2mm gap in the rear, but it does fit. My team leader/shop guy likes Ardent 2.4s front and rear on his SS. I was also looking at 2.35 Barzos, I ran those in 2.25s last year and those are now on my kids bike. If you're ok with being patient about shipping (mixed reviews) probikekit.com has great prices on Vittoria tires. Btw, most 2.35s don't measure a true 2.35, Maxxis is wider than most.
    I'll take a look at what chainring might fit on my kids bxt when we get back home (it's got lots of tire clearance in the rear), you could probably mess around with chainline spacers a little bit to fit a bigger ring on there.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    There's lots of 2.35s for XC, this year I (finally) decided on a Ardent 2.4 front and Ardent Race 2.35 rear on my hardtail, I only have about 2mm gap in the rear, but it does fit. My team leader/shop guy likes Ardent 2.4s front and rear on his SS. I was also looking at 2.35 Barzos, I ran those in 2.25s last year and those are now on my kids bike. If you're ok with being patient about shipping (mixed reviews) probikekit.com has great prices on Vittoria tires. Btw, most 2.35s don't measure a true 2.35, Maxxis is wider than most.
    I'll take a look at what chainring might fit on my kids bxt when we get back home (it's got lots of tire clearance in the rear), you could probably mess around with chainline spacers a little bit to fit a bigger ring on there.
    Thanks but no need to check clearances, I think i'm gonna skip the whole Chiner frame deal and go with a Chiner frame with a Cube sticker on it. IF something in my size pops up on bike-discount. I've seen it before for sure.
    With this whole import tax mess and the bike-discount Cube prices the Chiner thing is starting to make less sense. I might also get better quality control with the Cube, and it doesn't have to travel around half the world to get here because Germany is my second neighbour to the west.

    I'm not exactly sure what I want to run tyre wise either, but that's what this bike is going to be about, to find out what I like. I mainly looked at Schwalbe and Conti stuff, their XC tyres tend to max out at 2.25.
    I checked and with the stock build this Cube comes with 2.25s. I hope there is room for more, luckily it uses a side swing FD.

    For starters I want to keep the bike really really tame, I think i'm gonna go with 2.2 Race King Protections, they're nice and balloony. Or Ikons which also come in a 2.35, or something similar.

  78. #9678
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    hi everyone. currently building with a BXT 29er carbon frame. reading this thread with interest. so far i have installed BB, crankset (36 tooth chainring), fork, stem, wheels. transmission and brakes coming soon.

  79. #9679
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiorentina View Post
    hi everyone. currently building with a BXT 29er carbon frame. reading this thread with interest. so far i have installed BB, crankset (36 tooth chainring), fork, stem, wheels. transmission and brakes coming soon.
    Keep us posted with your build! Which BXT frame are you using? If it's that hardtail frame from AliExpress, I'm curious how you fit a 36T chainring in there.

    Just a note, you'll want to do your brake and shifter cable routing BEFORE you install your BB and crankset.

  80. #9680
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    I'm very skeptical of the need for bigger than 32t up front on a 29er; I just had a very good race finish a couple of days ago, the course included a few sections of flat paved road, I use a 32t front and I might have used the 11 rear on the road sections (but maybe it was the 13 rear), - I very recently converted from 2x11 xtr to 1x11.
    Seriously, if you're spinning-out a 34x11 on flat ground over any distance you're some kind of freaky-fast.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  81. #9681
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    I'm very skeptical of the need for bigger than 32t up front on a 29er; I just had a very good race finish a couple of days ago, the course included a few sections of flat paved road, I use a 32t front and I might have used the 11 rear on the road sections (but maybe it was the 13 rear), - I very recently converted from 2x11 xtr to 1x11.
    Seriously, if you're spinning-out a 34x11 on flat ground over any distance you're some kind of freaky-fast.
    For 99% of practical applications, you're correct. However, the sprint finish of mountain bike races can be 25-30 mph. I run 32T mated to a 10T cog in the rear, which puts me at 24.8 mph at 90 rpm on 29" tires. Given I'll be turning a faster cadence than 90rpm in a sprint finish, this is just fine.

    Where larger front chainrings are practical is if you're on 27.5" tires or run an 11T in the rear. Then you'd want to work out the gear ratios and figure out what you need.

  82. #9682
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Keep us posted with your build! Which BXT frame are you using? If it's that hardtail frame from AliExpress, I'm curious how you fit a 36T chainring in there.

    Just a note, you'll want to do your brake and shifter cable routing BEFORE you install your BB and crankset.
    There is routing room underneath the BB for the cabling, there's a little carbon door you unscrew underneath the bottom bracket to run the cables underneath. i have used the spacers that came with the shimano BB to create enough space for the 36T chainring. It's tight but looks fine/solid to me.

    I'm using the BXT hardtail 29er frame.

  83. #9683
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    I'm very skeptical of the need for bigger than 32t up front on a 29er; I just had a very good race finish a couple of days ago, the course included a few sections of flat paved road, I use a 32t front and I might have used the 11 rear on the road sections (but maybe it was the 13 rear), - I very recently converted from 2x11 xtr to 1x11.
    Seriously, if you're spinning-out a 34x11 on flat ground over any distance you're some kind of freaky-fast.
    i prefer lower cadence, with a higher potential top speed on the big downhills. i'll be using a 36T chainring with an 11 tooth cassette which give me pretty much the same top gear ratio as my old 3x 8 speed

  84. #9684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiorentina View Post
    There is routing room underneath the BB for the cabling, there's a little carbon door you unscrew underneath the bottom bracket to run the cables underneath. i have used the spacers that came with the shimano BB to create enough space for the 36T chainring. It's tight but looks fine/solid to me.

    I'm using the BXT hardtail 29er frame.
    I've had several of those frames go through my garage as well! If you use more spacers on the drive-side, you'll need to use fewer spacers (or likely no spacers) on the non-drive side. This means your power transfer or saddle position may be asymmetrical. Up to you, some people wouldn't care.

    Also, don't use more spacers than recommended, because the crankarm that has to screw into the spindle needs enough thread length to screw in tight. It may feel tight and spin fine after you install it, but with some trail wear the bolt may come loose, strip out, or crack.

    You would be better off using normal spacing and sticking with a 32T.

  85. #9685
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I've had several of those frames go through my garage as well! If you use more spacers on the drive-side, you'll need to use fewer spacers (or likely no spacers) on the non-drive side. This means your power transfer or saddle position may be asymmetrical. Up to you, some people wouldn't care.

    Also, don't use more spacers than recommended, because the crankarm that has to screw into the spindle needs enough thread length to screw in tight. It may feel tight and spin fine after you install it, but with some trail wear the bolt may come loose, strip out, or crack.

    You would be better off using normal spacing and sticking with a 32T.
    yeah you're right, i did consider these things as risks. i think i'll see how it goes and feels when built and then drop down to a lower chainring if it feels unbalanced. With the Shimano XT crankset i've installed there was easily enough thread for the non-drive side arm, so i think that will be ok.

    great advice though. if it feels weird when i get to riding it i will change it

  86. #9686
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    Just needs transmission and brakes installing, cabling, and steerer cutting. Should come in at 9.95kg when finished but could be slightly over 10kg. Cant wait to ride it !!

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190202_133155.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20190202_133124.jpg  


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    Hello there, epic carbon thread folks! I'm a bit of an oddity here, but I'm looking for some rigid carbon 29er forks - suspension corrected for 100mm travel, and preferably with a 15mm thru axle. I have seen a few out there on ebay etc, but I was hoping to see if there were any real life experiences, names to go for, to avoid etc.
    Thanks in advance.

  88. #9688
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    Years ago I purchased one of the XMI Play forks - it's been on my IP-057 for all of those years, as both commuting duties and easy off-road stuff. Very strong, it's been through hell and back, but it definitely has about 0.01% compliance so is a hard ride! :O

  89. #9689
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    For those who bought FS frames from China, do they ship with extra pins and links? If not, do you worry about breaking any of them? Do you keep extra stock of parts?

  90. #9690
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    For those who bought FS frames from China, do they ship with extra pins and links?
    No.

    If not, do you worry about breaking any of them?
    No.

    Do you keep extra stock of parts?
    Yes.

    Get an extra derailleur hanger because it can break, an extra set of dropouts because the screws holding them in can strip out, and spare internal routing ports in case they break or bend. Three years down the road you don't want to be hunting for parts that don't exist anymore.

    Regarding shock mounting hardware, if it breaks just go to your hardware store, show them the part, and get it (typically an M5 socket bolt or similar). Otherwise it's just a $15 or less universal spacer kit.

    If the linkage breaks, that should be covered by 2-year warranty. Not likely to happen unless you buy a crappy frame. Carbon linkages are generally overbuilt, machined linkages are usually bombproof.

    In my experience the things that break on frames are seat tubes (due to overtightening seat clamp bolts), chainstays (due to running tires that are too big or running your shock at ridiculously low pressures). I've seen a lot of customers build a lot of bikes with elementary mechanic skills. My advice is to have a local mechanic check your build over after your all set.

  91. #9691
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Get an extra derailleur hanger because it can break, an extra set of dropouts because the screws holding them in can strip out, and spare internal routing ports in case they break or bend. Three years down the road you don't want to be hunting for parts that don't exist anymore.
    I'm talking more about the bushings between suspension arms, pivots, specialized screws, and so on. On my 2015 Rocky Mountain I had to replace a number of bushings. Are those just commercial, out of the shelf components on those chinese frames? I usually buy stuff from ICAN. Had bought a road frame+wheels, and mtb wheels; but never a complete frame.

  92. #9692
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    I'm talking more about the bushings between suspension arms, pivots, specialized screws, and so on. On my 2015 Rocky Mountain I had to replace a number of bushings. Are those just commercial, out of the shelf components on those chinese frames? I usually buy stuff from ICAN. Had bought a road frame+wheels, and mtb wheels; but never a complete frame.
    I've bought stuff from ICAN too, and also Pro-Mance, TanTan, and now Light Carbon. I can say ICAN hardware is the worst of them all. It squeaks and it isn't standard.

    The bearings on Pro-Mance and TanTan frames are standard, you can get replacements off eBay. There are no specialized screws--everything can be replaced at a good hardware store. Bushings between suspension arms? Can't recall.

    Have them send some spare bushings if you're worried, it shouldn't cost much. In general I don't think this is an issue people deal with often.

  93. #9693
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I've bought stuff from ICAN too, and also Pro-Mance, TanTan, and now Light Carbon. I can say ICAN hardware is the worst of them all. It squeaks and it isn't standard.

    The bearings on Pro-Mance and TanTan frames are standard, you can get replacements off eBay. There are no specialized screws--everything can be replaced at a good hardware store. Bushings between suspension arms? Can't recall.

    Have them send some spare bushings if you're worried, it shouldn't cost much. In general I don't think this is an issue people deal with often.
    Again, thank you very much for the answers.

    From what I saw, none of those offer something that I'm seeking: 29x2.5" tires (ideally 2.6"). This, in addition to a stiffer frame are essential. I'm also big (6'4") and heavy (285 lb, equipped). Any thoughts?

  94. #9694
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    Again, thank you very much for the answers.

    From what I saw, none of those offer something that I'm seeking: 29x2.5" tires (ideally 2.6"). This, in addition to a stiffer frame are essential. I'm also big (6'4") and heavy (285 lb, equipped). Any thoughts?
    There aren't any chiner 29er frames that I'm aware of which will fit 29x2.5" tires unless they are specially labelled 29+. A hardtail I'm riding and loving right now is the TanTan FM-299B, but I don't think that's what you're looking for.

    It's unfortunate that factory designs lag behind brand designs by 3-4 years, and 29x2.6" tires really are a fairly new development.

    I'm toying with doing a crowdfunding campaign for a 29x2.6" 120mm FS trail bike with long and slack geo (flip chip for XC vs. Trail-optimized geo). If there's a positive response I'd invite discussion in a separate thread and give it a go. It would take about 25 pledges for $1,000 each to get a mold in 19.5" and 17.5", where each pledge comes with a frame. Lead time about 3-6 months to delivery. This would be at no profit to me, though I'd use the mold after the campaign, of course.

  95. #9695
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    This would be at no profit to me, though I'd use the mold after the campaign, of course.
    I would be on board with this - but ONLY if you use the mold and label it "SissyFrames" or something along that line. Must incorporate your mtbr screen name some how.
    Because I want people to know I'm riding a sissy-bike
    Silly bike things happening.

  96. #9696
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    hi to all,i am a new here and this is my first post on this forum and hope I will have some help.this is my actual story.
    I have a Scott genius 740(2017model) 27.5+ , weight is 14.20kg(about31lbs) that is very heavy as I compete in cross country races.I was looking to do an upgrade for a carbon frame and sell mine but when I went for an estimate it came up very high price unfortunitly and over my budget.
    I started to look on Chinese carbon FS frames like Winow sports, Deng fu ,Tideace and I can , but the first thing is that I wanted a frame that can use a 27.5+ and a 29' rims.another thing that I wanted is to swap most of the parts from my Scott genius to carbon frame but in future I wish to do these upgrades : 11 or 12 speed (instead the 20 speed I have) 29' rims with 2.3 in-front and 2.1 rear, and change suspensions from 150 travel to 120mm.
    Could this be possible and are they durable for competions ?
    wish to have some feed backs as I am willing to do this on my own, I am not a specialist but wish to build my first frame and maybe win a race.
    thanks for all

  97. #9697
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    Quote Originally Posted by il-Peregin View Post
    hi to all,i am a new here and this is my first post on this forum and hope I will have some help.this is my actual story.
    I have a Scott genius 740(2017model) 27.5+ , weight is 14.20kg(about31lbs) that is very heavy as I compete in cross country races.I was looking to do an upgrade for a carbon frame and sell mine but when I went for an estimate it came up very high price unfortunitly and over my budget.
    I started to look on Chinese carbon FS frames like Winow sports, Deng fu ,Tideace and I can , but the first thing is that I wanted a frame that can use a 27.5+ and a 29' rims.another thing that I wanted is to swap most of the parts from my Scott genius to carbon frame but in future I wish to do these upgrades : 11 or 12 speed (instead the 20 speed I have) 29' rims with 2.3 in-front and 2.1 rear, and change suspensions from 150 travel to 120mm.
    Could this be possible and are they durable for competions ?
    wish to have some feed backs as I am willing to do this on my own, I am not a specialist but wish to build my first frame and maybe win a race.
    thanks for all
    Buying part by part is expensive. 2 years ago in february here it is winter and fat season, i was fortunate to buy a great used bike for little $. It is a carbon no sticker frame. At 21 pounds with tubes it is definitely a HT i could race with if it was my thing. All the components are top, a similar Trek would have cost me 6,000$ canadian but i paid 1,200. My SRAM XO1 11 S 10-42 is super. I simply switched to a 28 ring but with a 32 or 34 it would fly. I mostly enjoy the way it climbs and the fact it is a do everything bike with 29x2.3.

  98. #9698
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    Quote Originally Posted by il-Peregin View Post
    hi to all,i am a new here and this is my first post on this forum and hope I will have some help.this is my actual story.
    I have a Scott genius 740(2017model) 27.5+ , weight is 14.20kg(about31lbs) that is very heavy as I compete in cross country races.I was looking to do an upgrade for a carbon frame and sell mine but when I went for an estimate it came up very high price unfortunitly and over my budget.
    I started to look on Chinese carbon FS frames like Winow sports, Deng fu ,Tideace and I can , but the first thing is that I wanted a frame that can use a 27.5+ and a 29' rims.another thing that I wanted is to swap most of the parts from my Scott genius to carbon frame but in future I wish to do these upgrades : 11 or 12 speed (instead the 20 speed I have) 29' rims with 2.3 in-front and 2.1 rear, and change suspensions from 150 travel to 120mm.
    Could this be possible and are they durable for competions ?
    wish to have some feed backs as I am willing to do this on my own, I am not a specialist but wish to build my first frame and maybe win a race.
    thanks for all
    The Scott Genius will never be a XC race whip, you need to get something with less travel, I'd say around the 120mm mark if you like lots of squish.

    If you want to use both 27.5+ and 29" in your bike, your options are a little limited, but there are great options out there. I highly recommend the Pro-Mance M7007-II and the TanTan FS027. They will both fit 27.5x2.8" tires and 29x2.4". You can get about 108mm of rear travel, and they would work well with a 120mm travel fork of front.

    The LCFS937 will also work well with a 120mm front travel fork and 115mm of travel in the rear (if you run a 165x40mm trunnion shock instead of the recommended 165x45mm shock). This bike has very modern geometry, but will not fit 27.5x2.8" tires.

    Yes, these frames are durable for competitions. They are tested to the same standards as many North American brands and made from the same materials, designed by the same engineers, built in the same factories, and also are covered by 2-year warranty. This is simply the factory selling what they can do consumer-direct rather than relying exclusively on brands for their business. TanTan, Pro-Mance, and LightCarbon are known for good quality control. Tideace is NOT. Winow Sports is an agent for TanTan, you'll get a better price going to TanTan. PM me if you want a discount on a TanTan frame. Dengfu is also great, I'm not as familiar with them. You may also consider ICAN/Yishunbike and Hongfu.

    Yes, you can sometimes get a used bike cheaper if you are trying to keep your build cost <$2500 for Full-Suspension. But if you put more than $2500 into your build, you can get chiner carbon rims, Chiner carbon cockpit components, and save lots of weight. Check out the weight weenies forum for additional advice. For me, it is *always* cheaper to build from scratch and shop around for deals or lightly used components on eBay than buy from craigslist for an all-carbon bike.
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  99. #9699
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    tried to find one but din't from local ,and I do not know if I go to a hardtail or keep on a full suspension .will try to find best prices maybe even auctions from eBay.

  100. #9700
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    Quote Originally Posted by il-Peregin View Post
    tried to find one but din't from local ,and I do not know if I go to a hardtail or keep on a full suspension .will try to find best prices maybe even auctions from eBay.
    If you're going Chiner, buy directly from the factory through a well-known agent with a reputation. Don't buy from an eBay auction, those people can't be held responsible if you have something break. Carbon frames can break, you don't want to run the risk. There is a huge gray market for this stuff.
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  101. #9701
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    Was recering for components not frame 😊

  102. #9702
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    I just bought and received a Trident thrust from aliexpress, the chain stays were reasonable and it listed up to 3.0 tires. I ordered the 29 even though I am planning 27+ for rocky rooty trails of the northeast. I was able to fit a 34 tooth oval with 1 spacer behind the drive side threaded bottom bracket. I think it would probably fit some large 29 tires as well it easily fits the 27.5x2.6 maxxis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-carbon-bike.jpg  

    Last edited by levifuel; 03-08-2019 at 10:41 AM. Reason: add picture

  103. #9703
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    what is the weight of this beauty ?

  104. #9704
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    Wink My Experience with CARBONSPEED

    Ordered the bike and got it in 10 days here in FL. Great delivery and the frame is as described
    Last edited by JP Neal; 03-28-2019 at 05:03 AM.

  105. #9705
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP Neal View Post
    Purchased 10 months ago a CS-218SL from CARBONSPEED (Peter) and the bottom bracket schell separated from the frame.Has anyone had this problem with the Chinese Carbon Frames?
    Wow, can you post up with some pictures? I haven't heard anyone on the forums here report having this issue. It's hard to see how this could happen given that the BBs are usually so beefy and overbuilt. I'm sure Peter will honor the warranty or provide a discount on a replacement, but this sucks regardless.
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  106. #9706
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    Problem solved
    Last edited by JP Neal; 03-28-2019 at 04:59 AM.

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    Looking for rec on my next build for my nephew, Large carbon hardtail with modern geometry XC. Boost, maybe plus spacing. Designed around a 100mm x 51mm front fork offset.

    FYI, I'm Building a couple of the tantan FM299-B-SL. Too pricey for my nephew. Plus the whole flat mount rear brake design won't get my business ever again, nor a recommendation. Don't want BXT. Photos of the tantan FM299 below.Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190316_093411025.jpg
    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190315_082013164.jpg
    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190315_171223433.jpg
    Last edited by BillyBicycle; 03-18-2019 at 07:35 AM.

  108. #9708
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anger View Post
    Looking for rec on my next build for my nephew, Large carbon hardtail with modern geometry XC. Boost, maybe plus spacing. Designed around a 100mm x 51mm front fork offset.

    FYI, I'm Building a couple of the tantan FM299-B-SL. Too pricey for my nephew. Plus the whole flat mount rear brake design won't get my business ever again, nor a recomendation. Not a fan of the BB92 either. Don't want BXT. Photos of the tantan FM299 below.
    Edited re your reply in the 299B thread.

    Glad you're looking at the Pro-Mance FM015. FM015 New hardtail mtb frame. Unfortunately that also comes with a BB92 but otherwise I like the looks of it a lot. The flat mount rear brake on the FM-199B/299B is very strange, but after you get the right adapter (or have them include it) you'd never know or care.

    The new TanTan FM599 could also be worth a look. Not sure on geo though.

    Curious why you didn't go with the FM-199B if you're just running 29er tires? Nice paint schemes!

    I agree that BXT/Tideace budget hardtails are to be avoided. Flexy and crackable garbage.
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  109. #9709
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Edited re your reply in the 299B thread.

    Glad you're looking at the Pro-Mance FM015. FM015 New hardtail mtb frame. Unfortunately that also comes with a BB92 but otherwise I like the looks of it a lot. The flat mount rear brake on the FM-199B/299B is very strange, but after you get the right adapter (or have them include it) you'd never know or care.

    The new TanTan FM599 could also be worth a look. Not sure on geo though.

    Curious why you didn't go with the FM-199B if you're just running 29er tires? Nice paint schemes!

    I agree that BXT/Tideace budget hardtails are to be avoided. Flexy and crackable garbage.
    - Not sure why I put anti-BB92 in the post earlier, they're ok...brain fart. Removed that comment.
    -RFQ'd the Promance for the next build for my nephew. 29'er large
    - I ordered the tan-tan for the ability to run plus size tires. I will build the blue with a Fox32 SC fork and run 28mm ow rims/tires on that with the option to max it out with spare wheels as permitted by the fork width. But definitely putting 3" WTB tires on 50mm ow rims on the red, with a RockShox SID world cup fork. I like the versatility of the + size frame, allows me to swap rims/tires easier on my many builds to give friends and family a sense for what is possible by changing parts.

  110. #9710
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I agree that BXT/Tideace budget hardtails are to be avoided. Flexy and crackable garbage.
    ymmv; We've got 9 months or so on my kids XL BXT hardtail, zero issues and easy build, He rides it 3-4x per week year round, and he's got 3 races on it so far this 'spring'. At the time I ordered it, I could only find 2 builders who did XL; BXT and Tideace (there were probably more that I just didn't see). For the $242 I spent, if we get another year out of it I'll be happy.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  111. #9711
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimPacNW View Post
    ymmv; We've got 9 months or so on my kids XL BXT hardtail, zero issues and easy build, He rides it 3-4x per week year round, and he's got 3 races on it so far this 'spring'. At the time I ordered it, I could only find 2 builders who did XL; BXT and Tideace (there were probably more that I just didn't see). For the $242 I spent, if we get another year out of it I'll be happy.
    I've had my Tideace now for over a year - about 3000km on it.
    Reba fork, Full SLX 1 x 11, Hope/Stans Arch Wheels.
    Done a number of long distance events plus a four day event.
    Everything is going great.
    Uppo

  112. #9712
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    Has anyone got any experience of using one of these forks?
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29er-Full...r=553159901793

    Had been recommended a couple a few pages back but they were bolt through and I need QR.

    If not this brand another recommendation would be appreciated thanks

  113. #9713
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    Quote Originally Posted by stayhigh View Post
    Has anyone got any experience of using one of these forks?
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29er-Full...r=553159901793

    Had been recommended a couple a few pages back but they were bolt through and I need QR.

    If not this brand another recommendation would be appreciated thanks
    I don't know, haven't had a bad rigid fork yet and owned a few. Looks good, I know there are some people that have had issues with play in the TA axle fittings but with a QR fork that shouldn't be an issue. It should be structurally sound, they do test these things.
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  114. #9714
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    I have an old Trek hardtail with a busted frame. I am thinking of getting one of these carbon frames and transferring everything over. It looks like nearly everything will transfer over, except possibly the spindle.

    I was considering this version of the BXT frame: https://ebay.us/3mV6SM

    It has a slightly slacker geometry than the 015 frame that is also for sale on ebay.

    My question is on the sizing. They recommend a Medium for me (182CM) but I am usually a large. Also, when I compare the geometry numbers to a Specialized hardtail, they are spot on for the large in Reach, Stack and Top Tube, and I would be a large on a Specialized.

    Anyone familiar with the sizing of this frame?

    Thanks.

  115. #9715
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    I'm not familiar with that frame, but have found most Chinese mfr Geo charts to be pretty accurate to their frames. They're probably recommending a Medium based on older bike style sizing, but if you know what you want based on ETT, Reach, Stack, go with what you prefer - in this case sounds like the Large.

  116. #9716
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    Even if I had health care...

  117. #9717
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarkhos View Post
    Even if I had health care...
    Given that you are posting this in other threads, it would appear that you are not joking.

    I had a look on that vendors site, and the only 29er frame that they had that resembles that frame is sub-2kg.

    If I chucked a lyric on a specialized epic, downhill style parts (pedals, cranks, cockpit, wheels and tyres), and then rode it like an enduro bike on enduro kind of terrain, i'd expect this kind of thing to happen within the first few hours of riding it too.

  118. #9718
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    Please explain to me what is the point of a full sus bike that can't handle a 2ft drop.

    Do any of these manufacturers even ride trails? Do they even live near a mountain?

    After reading a couple videos on how carbon frames are actually created I have severe doubts any cut-rate manufacturer does all the due diligence to make sure frames won't break, like flexing cranks a million times (let alone drop tests). But, sure, I guess just following a template is just as good. Enjoy your hospital bills

  119. #9719
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    BTW, had I trusted Chinese companies with safety equipment I may not be alive today.


    There are zero rules in China (other than don't piss off the Party chairman). None. If they had rules 2 million Africans wouldn't have died due to bad malaria drugs. NHS wouldn't have had to launch an investigation regarding how they ended up giving patients fake insulin. There wouldn't be a plastic gyre in the Pacific.

    One carbon frame from a US manufacturer breaks leading to road rash and the entire community goes insane, but this POS breaks leading to a broken leg nobody bats an eye.

    Good luck with your bargains.

  120. #9720
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    Here is a fact: about 5 years ago Specialized was selling a road helmet with a terrible attachement for 200$. A 15$ helmet was safer. The next year they changed that but many just wasted 200$ believing they bought a safe helmet.
    There is a ton of $$$ in marketing and it is foolish to think expensive is safe.

  121. #9721
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarkhos View Post
    Please explain to me what is the point of a full sus bike that can't handle a 2ft drop.
    There are many things that can change when you put what looks like a 180mm fork (maybe 160mm) on a bike designed for 100/120mm, which is what it appears this bike was made for when you look at the geo on the site he got it from.

  122. #9722
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarkhos View Post
    Please explain to me what is the point of a full sus bike that can't handle a 2ft drop.

    Enjoy your hospital bills
    Quote Originally Posted by anarkhos View Post
    BTW, had I trusted Chinese companies with safety equipment I may not be alive today.


    There are zero rules in China (other than don't piss off the Party chairman). None. If they had rules 2 million Africans wouldn't have died due to bad malaria drugs. NHS wouldn't have had to launch an investigation regarding how they ended up giving patients fake insulin. There wouldn't be a plastic gyre in the Pacific.

    One carbon frame from a US manufacturer breaks leading to road rash and the entire community goes insane, but this POS breaks leading to a broken leg nobody bats an eye.

    Good luck with your bargains.
    I agree that there is definitely more risk buying directly from chinese resellers, than buying from a big brand. It is kinda stating the obvious. There is definitely more testing done on the big brand frames, a lot more liability issues for them, so they need to make the product will hold up when used for the purpose it was designed for, and that the consumer is properly educated/warned about that intended purpose etc.

    The Chinese resellers are not only selling a less tested product, they often don't know their products limitations, and inform the customer appropriately. There seems to be a range of different Chinese resellers, some good, some bad. So you kinda need to know what you are doing before you deal with them.

    This is why dimwits should stick to name brands, and avoid these Chinese frames. The kind of dimwits who think you can throw a 6inch fork on a xc frame that is designed for forks in the 100mm-120mm range. The kind of dimwits that don't think for a moment that a sub-2kg frame would be a bad idea to take downhilling. The kind of dimwits that are niave enough to believe the guy on that video did all that damage to his leg and bike going off a 2 foot drop. The kind of dimwits that somehow think the lax pharmaceutical regulations are relevant to a broken mountain bike frame. The kind of dimwits that don't realise that, if that exact video was posted (same injury, same bike build, same words) but with a brand name XC frame (e.g. Scott spark), that the comments on YouTube would be almost unanimously abusive against the poster for putting a too-long fork on a frame that wasn't designed for it, and the poster was destined for such a crash - rather than all those must-be-the-frames-fault comments.

    Good luck with your sensationalism.

  123. #9723
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    All carbon frames break

    https://youtu.be/VZHWi2Ou5U8

    Please don't just post antecdotes, they are'nt very helpful.

    Here a whole thread of broken name brand carbon frames.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...y-1076587.html

  124. #9724
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    I was just watching UCI World Cup at Nove Mesto. Anna Tauber was leading most of the race on this bike. Sure looks like the Scott Spark Chinese frame like Hong Fu FM058 that American Eagle must be using. No?

  125. #9725
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    If it was like any of the hongfu frames, it is most like the 258, which has a toptube-seattube junction that looks like that.

    I had a look at some other photos, showing details of that frame, and it doesn't look like it is the same frame as the 258.

    On the other hand, have a look at Kerschbaumers Torpado. Dunno if he still has the same frame, but the one he rode last year looked pretty much identical to the Hongfu/promance equivalents.

  126. #9726
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    Quote Originally Posted by babarnicle View Post
    I was just watching UCI World Cup at Nove Mesto. Anna Tauber was leading most of the race on this bike. Sure looks like the Scott Spark Chinese frame like Hong Fu FM058 that American Eagle must be using. No?
    Here's all the "spy" shots of that frame:

    https://bikerumor.com/2019/01/16/pro...e-coming-soon/

    Looks exactly like a LightCarbon LCFS911:

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcar...frame_p39.html

    Yishunbike also sells the same frame, as does Xiamen Top-Fire. Light Carbon, Yishunbike, and Xiamen are all original manufacturers. You'd probably get the best price from Xiamen Top-Fire, the best service from Light Carbon, the worst quality from Yishunbike, the best paint from Top-Fire, and the best warranty service from Light Carbon. TriFox on AliExpress is a reseller (more expensive, another step removed from the factory).
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  127. #9727
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    aren't LC and YB affiliated? Like, selling goods from the same factory - why would quality differ then?

    AE and LC frames have different rear triangles, by the way

  128. #9728
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    AE and LC frames have different rear triangles, by the way
    Ah, good catch! This is the cheap way for any brand to make an open mold frame "theirs". I know that Top-Fire charges $2500 to design, draw up, machine clam-shell molds, and do initial testing for a new rear triangle. Pretty dirt cheap! Each size front triangle, on the other hand, costs $3500. That gets expensive more quickly, but if you're paying World Cup XC racers, what's the real financial problem?

    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    aren't LC and YB affiliated? Like, selling goods from the same factory - why would quality differ then?
    That would be news to me, they both have separate *manufacturing* facilities. They do share some of the same molds, that does not mean they are financially affiliated. Where did you hear? Yishunbike has had long-term issues with all of their rims, and a very poor record of fulfilling warranty. Just read around on the web. I have not personally tried them, but if they can't even make a good rim, I wouldn't trust them for a frame. Somehow, ICAN operates within the premises of Yishunbike and does manufacturing and service on a whole other level.
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  129. #9729
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    from a representative of YB (on Alibaba)
    I run their rim in the front myself (RSD 29+), which is fine, for the record
    Price offered by reps of both companies was very close, YB won by like $5 or 10

  130. #9730
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    from a representative of YB (on Alibaba)
    I run their rim in the front myself (RSD 29+), which is fine, for the record
    Price offered by reps of both companies was very close, YB won by like $5 or 10
    Cool, I'm just going based on dozens of stories I've heard. Maybe those issues are past and the future is now.

    Were you getting retail price? Some of these places have discounts for people inside the bike industry (or who spread the word around). Usually can drop about $30 per rim. Some will, some won't.
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  131. #9731
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    no idea what the retail price was, I just emailed reps of both companies with inquiry about a single rim and took the cheaper offer

  132. #9732
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    looking for recommendations for my next 29+ hardtail build. Want a threaded bottom bracket this time around. I've got a couple tantan 299's, which are nice. Just looking for something different this time around.

    B.

    Cross posting up photos of my latest tantan 199 build for my nephew.
    He rode it yesterday with me yesterday and he had a blast !
    it's a fast and confidence inspiring bike in the michigan XC mud.

    Chinese Carbon 29er-ec56b6b5-a3d3-4ac2-a669-3485293c57b6.jpgName:  IMG_20190527_155433861.jpg
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  133. #9733
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anger View Post
    looking for recommendations for my next 29+ hardtail build. Want a threaded bottom bracket this time around. I've got a couple tantan 299's, which are nice. Just looking for something different this time around.

    B.

    Cross posting up photos of my latest tantan 199 build for my nephew.
    He rode it yesterday with me yesterday and he had a blast !
    it's a fast and confidence inspiring bike in the michigan XC mud.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I don't think you'll be finding a great threaded BB 29+ bike. This model from ICAN previously was advertised with a threaded BB, I believe, but I see that now they've switched over to the overrated PF standard: https://www.icanbikes.com/html/MTB/2...ml#bk_desc_tab.

    Some manufacturers may be willing to bond in threaded inserts if you ask and pay extra. Light Carbon does that, at least to my knowledge.
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  134. #9734
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    I don't think you'll be finding a great threaded BB 29+ bike. This model from ICAN previously was advertised with a threaded BB, I believe, but I see that now they've switched over to the overrated PF standard: https://www.icanbikes.com/html/MTB/2...ml#bk_desc_tab.

    Some manufacturers may be willing to bond in threaded inserts if you ask and pay extra. Light Carbon does that, at least to my knowledge.
    no prob, thanks. i will probably end up doing two more 299's with the pressfits, custom painted. The quality of the tantan paint jobs was spectacular on the six frames I ordered, even if they got one of the minor details wrong.

    Fit and finish on the second batch of tantan was great. Assembly went without a hitch, except my tools and small parts were scattered in my basement due to various factors. The plus size bike is really coming in handy with all this michigan mud due to the rainy spring.

  135. #9735
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    Hongfu FM258B

    Here's my FM258B build. Nothing too special about it.

    Eagle GX drivetrain with XO crank, absolute black 32 oval ring
    i9 Trail 245 wheels from my previous bike
    SRAM Level TLM brakes
    Manitou Mattoc adjusted to 100mm
    Manitou Mcleod with remote lockout
    Tideace bars (not sure I'd buy again, light but lack quality)
    Tideace seatpost (definitely don't recommend, heavy and seat tilt would come loose until I removed the powder coating on the swivel)
    Kalloy stem
    Chiner seat that sissypants recommends
    Some older XT pedals

    As built, it's a tad over 25lbs for an 21" frame(2025g). I'm still dialing in the suspension but damn this bike rolls well! I'll probably ditch the seat post in the future for something lighter but I'm a big guy and want to pick something that will be durable. Also I need a second set of pedals so I'll pick up some XTRs. Between those changes, I might get under 25lbs.

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190604_171805.jpgChinese Carbon 29er-20190604_171758.jpg

    Thanks to everyone who has posted their builds before. I definitely used the info you posted as I bought components.

  136. #9736
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    you bought a Mattoc for this?
    a lighter fork with shorter stanchions and shafts would do just fine
    would be cheaper, too

  137. #9737
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    you bought a Mattoc for this?
    a lighter fork with shorter stanchions and shafts would do just fine
    would be cheaper, too
    Good luck with that. CRC deal was $586 for the Mattoc. I'm not interested in 32mm stanchion either. I'm 210lbs and 1lb is nothing in the overall weight.

  138. #9738
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    okay, your money
    coulda gotten a Lefty for that much

  139. #9739
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    Alright - need some advice from you seasons chinacarbon framers.

    I am trying to build up a cheap XC/light trail rig.

    I'm leaning LightCarbon LCFS911

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcar...frame_p39.html


    I want it in 120mm rear, 120mm front mode. I'm THINKING this shock should get me close. Any idea if this fits?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-FOX-Pe...5.c10#viTabs_0


    Lastly, does the frame come with mounting hardware/bolts?


    Anyone build one of these up yet? It looks like it will fit the ticket for me getting a scrapped together XC bike for cheap-ish
    GG Smash

  140. #9740
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Alright - need some advice from you seasons chinacarbon framers.

    I'm leaning LightCarbon LCFS911

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcar...frame_p39.html


    I want it in 120mm rear, 120mm front mode. I'm THINKING this shock should get me close. Any idea if this fits?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-FOX-Pe...5.c10#viTabs_0


    Lastly, does the frame come with mounting hardware/bolts?
    I previously had the same idea with the same frame.
    An owner said me rear suspension can take a few more travel which is not surprising as the rear triangle seems the same as the 27,5+ model with more travel.
    On the LCFS911 with a 165x42,5 shock you should get approximately 106mm travel, with a 165x45 around 112,5mm travel.

    When i bought a frame from lightcarbon i just had the bolts, you have to buy the bushings.

  141. #9741
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    Anyone have any experience or thoughts on spcycle sp-m003 frame?

    I would like to build another china bike. Good experience with hongfu frames but this one above I can get for a half money.

  142. #9742
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    LCFS713 build





    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190704_194133_1.jpg



    Build thread can be found here: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20190704_194144_1.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190704_194153_1.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190704_194119_1.jpg  


  143. #9743
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    Nice looking machine.

    We have a Hong-Fu non-branded road frame that we built up 5 years ago. It is still going well. I'm aware Hong-Fu also manufacture the same frame branded for some big brands. The Hong-Fu paint job is still outstanding.

    Have not tried their other products but friends have their hard tails and no issues. We ride hard but don't abuse our bikes.

  144. #9744
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    Just ordered a Fasteam hard tail frame. What is a good 120mm fork to keep the weight down a little?

  145. #9745
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    Fox 34 SC

  146. #9746
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    Finding much better deals on the 32's, would the difference be all that noticeable?

  147. #9747
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    Quote Originally Posted by sapva View Post
    Finding much better deals on the 32's, would the difference be all that noticeable?
    My 32 is plenty. I guess maybe an agressive heavy rider would see a difference.

  148. #9748
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    My 32 is plenty. I guess maybe an agressive heavy rider would see a difference.
    Heavy certainly fits my description, at times aggressive. But I'm not planning to be doing any 4' drops on it and I rarely bottom out forks (rear suspension and drive train is a different story). Basically treating it like what it is, a light weight, precision tool, not a sledgehammer.

  149. #9749
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    Any of these frames with a rear dropout condusive to running single speed

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  150. #9750
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    only the track ones

  151. #9751
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Yeah, I know there's stuff out there like you describe, but I can't think of one Chiner hardtail that has similar geometry from the dozen+ companies I'm familiar with. You could definitely get a custom-made Ti frame for under $800, but then you might as well just go get a Nukeproof in terms of weight vs. cost.
    Where? I am 6'7" all legs and have a helluva time finding anything that fits. A used bike to transplant onto an $800 Ti frame sounds like a no brainer. I have a Dengfu FM190 Fat bike and could use more stack, but the reach is fine. Would like a Full Susp 27.5+ to go with it.

  152. #9752
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deephaven View Post
    Where? I am 6'7" all legs and have a helluva time finding anything that fits. A used bike to transplant onto an $800 Ti frame sounds like a no brainer. I have a Dengfu FM190 Fat bike and could use more stack, but the reach is fine. Would like a Full Susp 27.5+ to go with it.
    Hey, just go on Alibaba and hunt down the factories that advertise Ti frames. There are two big ones and a few smaller resellers or boutique vendors. I forget the names, but there is some info on the forums going back a few years.

    Be prepared to provide them with a list of ALL of your requirements and detailed geometry UP FRONT. It will help you avoid "misunderstandings" and clarify what you are expecting of them. Also tell them UP FRONT to pay special attention to the welds because you care about how the welding looks, that also means they will pay attention to the joints instead of a slop-job. From what I hear, these factories are great for the first order or one-off orders, but can produce crappy stuff in the long haul. Inquire about their warranty and make it clear you will hold them to it, and it never hurts to tell them you post pictures on the forums and promote their company if their product meets expectations. It's all leverage in the worst case scenario

    I know Peter Xu from XMCarbonSpeed used to help a few customers getting custom Ti frames, but I'm not sure what the status is with his services right now. It sounds like he moved on.
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  153. #9753
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    I ahd a good experience with Walty Titanium a few years ago when I had them build me a ti 29er frame.

    As mentioned, make sure you have everthing, all details, listed. They will build exactly what you ask for.
    You cannot go against nature, because when you do, its part of nature too.

  154. #9754
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    recently ordered this frame... hoping someone built one ahead of me...

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289...31794c4dmviZCI

  155. #9755
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Alright - need some advice from you seasons chinacarbon framers.

    I am trying to build up a cheap XC/light trail rig.

    I'm leaning LightCarbon LCFS911

    https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcar...frame_p39.html


    I want it in 120mm rear, 120mm front mode. I'm THINKING this shock should get me close. Any idea if this fits?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-FOX-Pe...5.c10#viTabs_0


    Lastly, does the frame come with mounting hardware/bolts?


    Anyone build one of these up yet? It looks like it will fit the ticket for me getting a scrapped together XC bike for cheap-ish
    Did you pursue this build? wondering how it went for you???

  156. #9756
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deephaven View Post
    Where? I am 6'7" all legs and have a helluva time finding anything that fits. A used bike to transplant onto an $800 Ti frame sounds like a no brainer. I have a Dengfu FM190 Fat bike and could use more stack, but the reach is fine. Would like a Full Susp 27.5+ to go with it.
    If you go custom Chinese titanium route, pay very special attention to the chainstay yoke area
    Those guys like to make them flimsy and that won't work for a rider your size and strength)
    Rapid-Titan and Triton (Russia) use 10mm+ plate on the drive side, Ankang Haofutan made me curvy (water jet cut?) yoke plates 7mm thick at the thinnest spot - and that's thicker than they originally offered, cause I kept insisting on more metal there

    Try talking to Rapid-Titan too ([email protected]) - they're not expensive and you might even have easier time communicating with them

  157. #9757
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    My new cheap 29 full-susp. bike is almost complete.
    Frame: TriFox TL-CFM-S01 (Toray 700)
    Fork: Manitou machette 100 mm (with ABS)
    Rear shock: Fox 165x45 Trunnion (with custom made trunnion mounting hardware kit cause the frame has only regular hardware for 165x38 shox)
    Wheels: chineese 30mm (inner) carbon rims witn Bitex hubs.

    *What is that strange thing (pretty heavy) for on the downtube near of bottom bracket? Is it for Bafang electric engine? Does original American Eagle Flow has same?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190724_174635.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190724_175003.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190724_143857.jpg  

    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190724_144104.jpg  


  158. #9758
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    Quote Originally Posted by vartz04 View Post
    Any of these frames with a rear dropout condusive to running single speed

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
    My shop owner/team friend built up a Tideace hardtail as a SS, I think he used a concentric bb, he's a solid local longtime cat1 CX and Mtb SS racer. I think it's sub 20 pounds without going weight weenie nuts, and he recently got a top5 finish overall at a well attended weeknight local race (apparently upsetting several of the geared guys a little bit). He ordered custom paint, which cost quite a bit more and took a while longer, but he's quiet happy with it so far, after 2 or 3 months of riding/racing. I think he used a 110 or 115 travel Fox fork that was recently commonly available for pretty cheap on ebay.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  159. #9759
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Snigirev View Post
    *What is that strange thing (pretty heavy) for on the downtube near of bottom bracket? Is it for Bafang electric engine? Does original American Eagle Flow has same?
    It looks to me like a carrier for a Shimano DI2 battery pack, for full electronic drivetrain integration. Pivot have been integrating similar things (with a much better finish) for a number of years now.

  160. #9760
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    post deleted-wrong thread
    Last edited by timber715; 07-29-2019 at 09:04 PM.

  161. #9761
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Snigirev View Post
    My new cheap 29 full-susp. bike is almost complete.
    Frame: TriFox TL-CFM-S01 (Toray 700)
    Fork: Manitou machette 100 mm (with ABS)
    Rear shock: Fox 165x45 Trunnion (with custom made trunnion mounting hardware kit cause the frame has only regular hardware for 165x38 shox)
    Wheels: chineese 30mm (inner) carbon rims witn Bitex hubs.

    *What is that strange thing (pretty heavy) for on the downtube near of bottom bracket? Is it for Bafang electric engine? Does original American Eagle Flow has same?
    Just curious- what stem/bar is that on your bike? Do you have a link to where you purchased it? Bike looks great. Nice work.

  162. #9762
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Snigirev View Post
    My new cheap 29 full-susp. bike is almost complete.
    Frame: TriFox TL-CFM-S01 (Toray 700)
    Fork: Manitou machette 100 mm (with ABS)
    Rear shock: Fox 165x45 Trunnion (with custom made trunnion mounting hardware kit cause the frame has only regular hardware for 165x38 shox)
    Wheels: chineese 30mm (inner) carbon rims witn Bitex hubs.

    *What is that strange thing (pretty heavy) for on the downtube near of bottom bracket? Is it for Bafang electric engine? Does original American Eagle Flow has same?


    What did you end up doing for the trunnion hardware as I think I'll be in the same position when my frame arrives?
    GG Smash

  163. #9763
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    Anyone done a Pro-Mance M6006-II build? My google-fu might be slipping but I couldn't find any info on these frames other than the pro-mance website.

  164. #9764
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    Howdy all!!!! thanks for the tips, been lurking here for a few months. Just finished my airwolf 29er build, and she came in at 26 lbs. This was the beginning with the fox 34 and fox rear. 140f-120r
    Chinese Carbon 29er-14673.jpg

  165. #9765
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    Did ebay 30mm inside CF rims with straight pull powerway hubs, raceface CF bar, CF stem, the shimano 396 hyd brakes with the floating rotors ordered from China, none were in the states without paying triple. Used Tyvek tape for tubeless It took a lot of mechanical skills to set it up, was not just a bolt together unit. But its solid now. velo angel glide seat, CF seat post, shimano 8000 11sp derailuer and quick shifter, KMC silver ex chain, a sunrace 11-50 cassette. Continental cross country tires with some black chili compound that have low rolling resistance since im still on a lot of pavement getting my legs back in shape. 630g china pf30 ebat IFX crank 32t deckas oval........ all about 26 lbs

  166. #9766
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    How do you rotate images?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese Carbon 29er-20190806_205950.jpg  


  167. #9767
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    Chinese Carbon 29er-20190806_210021.jpg

  168. #9768
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outhouse View Post
    How do you rotate images?
    Its an effed up site in a bunch of different respects. Easiest solution for me - use Tapatalk.
    2020 Kona Unit (in progress...)
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  169. #9769
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    Last edited by Outhouse; 08-12-2019 at 12:25 PM.

  170. #9770
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    Got a link to that Airwolf frame? Interested in seeing the geometry etc.

  171. #9771
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    Got a link to that Airwolf frame? Interested in seeing the geometry etc.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284...f0e7492ae41f-1

  172. #9772
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingDodo View Post
    LCFS713 build





    Click image for larger version. 

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    Build thread can be found here: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
    Can you give us some feedback on this frame now that you likely have a fair amount of time on it?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by KGAmoto; 08-14-2019 at 01:08 PM.

  173. #9773
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    I'm looking for a HT frame. 142x12 axle. Must take 36T. Lightweigt. XC geo. Any suggestions?

  174. #9774
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post
    I'm looking for a HT frame. 142x12 axle. Must take 36T. Lightweigt. XC geo. Any suggestions?
    Are you planning for Shimano?
    With an 11S cassette 10-42 SRAM you would probably be OK with with a 34 wich is easier to find. Good luck.

  175. #9775
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    Sram but still need minimum 36


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  176. #9776
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    Chinese Carbon 29er-img_20190818_082141.jpg

    In the final stages of my "budget" LCFS911 build light trail build.

    Dropper post arrives today, need to swap rims as these cheap DT rims are portly and narrow, and these tires were the only 29er spares I had laying around and are way too sketchy.

    The frame quality looks great. Unfortunately the specs on the LC website were incorrect regarding shock sizes, so this is my second shock for the build. They also forgot spacers for trunnion mounts, so I had to source them locally. They have since updated the website to have the correct information and 165 x 40 trunnion is the largest you can go. LC has been great helping make things right....would still buy from them again provided I don't crack this frame in 5 minutes.
    GG Smash

  177. #9777
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    Quote Originally Posted by haakonbs View Post
    Sram but still need minimum 36


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Interested to hear this as well. I'm planning on a gravel grinder with a 29er frame, so I also want a 36 or 38t chainring. I've found a few options.

    Workswell WCB-M-062

    This shows a 38t on an 062 frame.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/c...640919-34.html

    Post 6737 fits a 38t on an 057 frame in the middle position of a triple crankset.

  178. #9778
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190818_082141.jpg 
Views:	222 
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ID:	1272809

    In the final stages of my "budget" LCFS911 build light trail build.

    Dropper post arrives today, need to swap rims as these cheap DT rims are portly and narrow, and these tires were the only 29er spares I had laying around and are way too sketchy.

    The frame quality looks great. Unfortunately the specs on the LC website were incorrect regarding shock sizes, so this is my second shock for the build. They also forgot spacers for trunnion mounts, so I had to source them locally. They have since updated the website to have the correct information and 165 x 40 trunnion is the largest you can go. LC has been great helping make things right....would still buy from them again provided I don't crack this frame in 5 minutes.
    Looks great. It looks as though you added your own chainstay protector...and maybe lower downtube? What did you use?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  179. #9779
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    Quote Originally Posted by KGAmoto View Post
    Looks great. It looks as though you added your own chainstay protector...and maybe lower downtube? What did you use?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Lower downtube is some kydex. Love the stuff. A pair of good industrial scissors and a heat gun and you can make anything you desire.

    The chainstay is mastic tape + some chopped up packing foam to add a bit more "protection" and noise control. That is why it looks uneven.

    This was a first for me and it freaking worked. LOL.
    GG Smash

  180. #9780
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    Lower downtube is some kydex. Love the stuff. A pair of good industrial scissors and a heat gun and you can make anything you desire.

    The chainstay is mastic tape + some chopped up packing foam to add a bit more "protection" and noise control. That is why it looks uneven.

    This was a first for me and it freaking worked. LOL.
    Good info, thanks.

    The chainstay protector (from the hard to see photo) actually looks pretty legit and follows what manufacturers are doing now with those (specifically the bumps).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  181. #9781
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    I picked up a yoeleo 29er frame back a few years ago. Awesome frame. The only thing i didn't like was the internal cable stops for the rear derailleur. I tired to drill out the cable stops to run full cable housing which didn't work out. Has anyone actually drilled out there frame to work full cable length. Here is a pic from inside the chainstay. The inner sleeve is still i guess bonded inside.

    Chinese Carbon 29er-chainstays.jpg

    Are most of these frames using cable stops or any let you use a full cable length for the rear derailleur?

  182. #9782
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    I picked up a yoeleo 29er frame back a few years ago. Awesome frame. The only thing i didn't like was the internal cable stops for the rear derailleur. I tired to drill out the cable stops to run full cable housing which didn't work out. Has anyone actually drilled out there frame to work full cable length. Here is a pic from inside the chainstay. The inner sleeve is still i guess bonded inside.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are most of these frames using cable stops or any let you use a full cable length for the rear derailleur?
    Mine had cheesey stops, so I drilled mine out and full cable sleeve all the way through. Had no issues

  183. #9783
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    Outhouse which frame was it you end up fixing.

  184. #9784
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    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Edited re your reply in the 299B thread.

    Glad you're looking at the Pro-Mance FM015. FM015 New hardtail mtb frame. Unfortunately that also comes with a BB92 but otherwise I like the looks of it a lot. The flat mount rear brake on the FM-199B/299B is very strange, but after you get the right adapter (or have them include it) you'd never know or care.

    The new TanTan FM599 could also be worth a look. Not sure on geo though.

    Curious why you didn't go with the FM-199B if you're just running 29er tires? Nice paint schemes!

    I agree that BXT/Tideace budget hardtails are to be avoided. Flexy and crackable garbage.
    Looking into purchasing FM599, wondering if it has dropper routing.
    Also, I kinda have anxiety that if the bike is from carbon it will easily break. Is that really the case?
    I don't ride hard, sometimes rocky descent or 5-10 stairs, but mostly flat/smooth surfaces and gravel.

  185. #9785
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    I've narrowed down my build to 2 frame styles. LCFS911/TanTanfs027 with the "vertical" shock vs something like a Dengfu/TanTan M06 with the "horizontal" shock. What are the +'s and -'s of the frames when compared? Both seem to have similar geometry, fit 29x2.35" tires, and 100mm rear travel. I'd be using 120mm on the front for XC/light trail riding. I know suspension linkages/design are different, I just don't understand the benefits 1 would have over the other.

  186. #9786
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    Read this

    Quote Originally Posted by Cerpss View Post
    I've narrowed down my build to 2 frame styles. LCFS911/TanTanfs027 with the "vertical" shock vs something like a Dengfu/TanTan M06 with the "horizontal" shock. What are the +'s and -'s of the frames when compared? Both seem to have similar geometry, fit 29x2.35" tires, and 100mm rear travel. I'd be using 120mm on the front for XC/light trail riding. I know suspension linkages/design are different, I just don't understand the benefits 1 would have over the other.
    You might find this helpful
    https://www.bikeradar.com/features/t...nsion-systems/

  187. #9787
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsdikey View Post
    Thank you...I think? Time to drag my physics and statics/dynamics from college out of the cobwebs in the back of my brain.

  188. #9788
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    Twin Link vs Trek ABP

    Quote Originally Posted by Cerpss View Post
    Thank you...I think? Time to drag my physics and statics/dynamics from college out of the cobwebs in the back of my brain.
    So what you will find in that link, is that it is not about positioning of rear shock but rather about pivots.
    The vertical shock one you have linked looks to me similar to Trek ABP system, so you might want to take a look at that.
    While the horizontal one looks like a Twin link system to me.

  189. #9789
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    TanTan / Seraph FM199 / FM299 issues. AVOID TanTan in your online business.

    Hello MTBR carbon aficionados,
    I am an owner of a TanTan FM199-B-SL (or FM199-B, depending on the ad), also sold by Seraph, and maybe others - I see the FM299 on ebay which is the same frame with a 3" tire clearance as well. I am writing to this forum to inform you of the inept customer service I received from TanTan (Lisa on Skype), starting with receiving the frame with several carbon chips including in the headtube in the area supporting the upper headset bearing, which I was told is not a warranty issue, and I did not use VISA (my mistake).

    I accepted that they will not provide a replacement, and that could take 3-4 months anyways with shipping and mfgr avoidance, so I assembled and rode it for approx 8?? months until I began experiencing creaking which led to knee pain starting ~ 3 mos. ago, and which I thought was a BB/crank issue due to persistent left heel strike on crankarm and knee pain. Turns out the wheels were a little off dish, and once I dished them perfectly I found that the tire to chainstay clearance was ~ 3mm closer to the non-driveside while the tire to seatstay clearance was ~3mm closer to the Driveside. Verified without a tire, and with another wheel also. So, the wheel is in fact canted in the stays and not only is it not centered, but is actually crooked and causes the bike to not ride straight. This is coming from multiple Surly warranties, a Niner SIR9 bent frame, and a Kinesis Maxlight X which arrived from UK ~5mm off from straight and I was told to ship back, but ended up building up and crashing, then donating. So, needless to say I am frustrated. I contacted TanTan's CR rep Lisa who asked me 2 questions before ceasing all communications with me. I was polite and straightforward about this being a defect in material that I feel deserves support, if not a warranty at least an offer of a new dropout would be in order to see if it helps.

    Anyways you can read the full story on Chinertown.com here: TanTan FM199-B-SL

    I will include a few screenshots of the conversation for your amusement.
    In the meantime I am "repairing" the dropout alignment with Loctite 609, which will take probably 3-5 days of repeated loctite, drying, testing etc but I am confident that I can fill the gaps around the dropout/hanger which is a combo of missing carbon and eroded medal on the dropout, by aligning the dropout with the skewer and no preload until it bottoms on the frame, but before it fully seats and is tightened down, which is when the wheel cants to one side.

    Mainly I want everyone to be aware that while this frame was a good deal, the dropouts on these frames are very sub-par compared to what I see coming from Santa Cruz or other major brands (santa cruz highball NDS dropout is all metal btw), and the easy fix for this single fixing bolt gaffe made by Chinese mfgrs is to use some Loctite 609 or 641 and primer during the initial build, anywhere that there that might have movement occur. I did loctite the hanger/dropout 2mm fixing bolt during initial build, but this never occured to me as a potential problem/ solution. I'm sure if I had done so, the movement wouldn't have occured and the frame would still be in fine condition, but this should lie on the mfgr as I assembled it to spec, even loctiting the fixing bolt, and support from TanTan has been almost condescending as far as they are active and online on Skype and will simply not reply if you're not offering something they want to hear. I would love for them to know that they are losing business over this.Chinese Carbon 29er-lisa1.jpgChinese Carbon 29er-lisa2.jpgChinese Carbon 29er-lisa3.jpg

  190. #9790
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    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by sissypants View Post
    Whoa hang on, I don't know what just happened. I was goofing around on a supplier's site I've never been to and discovered this:

    ACEBIKE sell high end and price reasonable 29er Hardtail Light Carbon MTB Bicycle Frames.

    External rear brake routing on a carbon frame. How about that?

    Mondraker Podium Carbon RR 2020 model costs more than 6000 UK pounds, and it has external routing for the rear mech. How about that?!?!?

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