Cheapo 29er Comparison-- Nashbar SS 29er $301 vs. Dawes DeadEye SS 29er $319- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cheapo 29er Comparison-- Nashbar SS 29er $301 vs. Dawes DeadEye SS 29er $319

    I have read a few comparison and general 29er threads but none of them have really addressed the lowest 29er bikes... Which would you go with?

    Nashbar has disc brakes and Deadeye has a steel frame.


    Nashbar is $350 - 25% + shipping = $301

    http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Produc...2_502354_-1___

    Frame: 6061 Aluminum
    Fork: Chromoly Steel
    Brakes: Tektro IO Mechanical Disc
    Crankset: FSA V-Drive 32T
    Wheelset: Alex DM18 rims with Joytech bolt-on alloy hubs with 18t freewheel
    Tires: WTB Nanoraptor, 2.1", 60 TPI
    Bars: Alloy
    Stem: Alloy
    Seatpost: Alloy
    Saddle: Velo
    Grips: Velo


    Dawes DeadEye is $319 shipped

    http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/deadeye.htm


    Frame 100 CR-MO, w/ Disc Brake Tabs, CrMo Rear End, Water Bottle Mounts, Removable Derailleur Hanger
    Fork 100% Cr-MO w/Disc Brake Tabs
    Crankset Gravity Maximus 3-pc Alloy, 175mm, 32T
    Bottom Bracket Sealed Euro w/ ISIS Drive Spindle
    Pedals Wellgo, Alloy Cage, Cr-Mo axle 9/16"
    Front Derailleur n/a
    Rear Derailleur n/a
    Shifters n/a
    Cassette/Freewheel n/a
    Chain KMC Z610
    Hubs Dawes Alloy Cassette disc Ready Hub, 36H, Nutted, 18T Cog
    Spokes Stainless steel 14Ga. Black Finish
    Rims Aluminum Double Wall, CNC Sidewalls, w/ Stainless 14Ga. Spokes
    Tires 29" WTB Nano Raptor 2.1 F&R
    Brakes Tektro 837AL Linear Pull F&R
    Brake Levers Tektro 313A 2 Finger Alloy F&R
    Headset Tange 1-1/8” Threadless
    Handlebar Dawes 2” Alloy Riser Bar, 25.5” Wide, 31.8mm
    Stem Dawes Alloy MTB, 7 Degree Rise 31.8mm clamp
    Tape/Grip Dawes Fine-diamond pattern Grip
    Saddle Dawes Super Light w/ Custom Cover
    Seat Post Dawes Micro Adjust Alloy 27.2
    Seat Post Clamp Super Light Alloy with bolt

  2. #2
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    Flip a coin... it probably comes down to steel vs aluminum and color. Either way the brakes and tires will probably be replaced if you do some serious riding. If you are mainly riding roads and fire roads, both bikes are fine stock.

  3. #3
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    nashbar ss

    Nashbar ss has a better crank and wheel set, and is cheaper when you use the coupon code "framily"... No brainer for me

  4. #4
    SSolo, on your left!
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    Nashbar is better specs, a little cheaper and after seeing all the mis-aligned disc brake tabs on DD it's easy to go with Nashbar SS.
    Get off the couch and ride! :)

  5. #5
    AZ
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    Better after sale support from Nashbar .

  6. #6
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    I just bought one from Nashbar - scheduled for delivery today. With the "FRAMILY" discount code, I paid $262 plus S&H

  7. #7
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    thanks guys, very helpful

  8. #8
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    I can tell you 100% that the tektro IO discs SUCK unless some design changes have taken place. I had them on my '04 hardrock and changed them pretty quickly (after trying to adjust and changed the stock set of pads), BB7's can be had for $100 for a pair after shipping so not too big of a deal. I would take pull brakes any day over the tektro IO's. They are flat out unsafe on steep grades!! Check out the review for the Tektro IO's, a lot of people have the same opinion of them.

    It wouldnt steer me away from the bike, but realized you may need to drop $100 soon after getting it.

    Sorry for rambling, but I honestly can not say enough bad things about these brakes.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, I have pretty much already budgeted for BB7s... I have heard that about the Tektro IO's from a lot of places...

    Anyone have a good, cheap source for BB7s?

  10. #10
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    This is the best price I could find after a very quick search,

    ebay - $99 shipped.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/AVID-MTB-BB7-160...item335ec3a82a


    Amazon - 103.46 shipped:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

  11. #11
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    Those Tektros...

    I picked up the Nash version a couple of months ago. Had the same opinion of the Tektro's at first.

    I found that they absolutely sucked... for about 50 miles. Once the rotor started to show some real wear, they vastly improved. I also got (what I felt was) a lot of cable stretch for about the same amount of time.

    After about 50 miles, I took the time to clean them all up, and re-adjusted/centered the pads. Since then, I've had to re-adust them once in about the last 250 miles - after I loaned the bike to a friend, who is apparently quite rear-brake-only and quite heavy handed.

    While he was stretching my cable, I was riding along on my geared 26er. I had been disappointed in the Tektro's, but going back to the v-brakes (Avid's) after the Tektro's had been used a while made it pretty clear. They were way better than the V's, both in stopping power and modulation.

    Couple of caveats:
    *I'm 160 lbs.
    *Those things are freaky til broken in and adjusted
    *they were a pain to adjust without tons of rub, but are pretty quiet now
    *they still aren't BB7s - I'm considering them a set of pads. When they wear out, I'm upgrading, but I'm losing the seat (comfy, but creaks like mad) and pedals (just plain suck) before the brakes.

    I love this bike. SS/rigid/29" fits my riding style, I had basically bought the Nash/Stout just to "try it out," and it has been my go-to for everything since. I'm trading my gearie, a Trek STP200 for a new water heater... my buddy is a contractor who has been eyeing it for years anyway.

    I had sworn I was keeping the STP forever, but I'm sure you know how that goes!

  12. #12
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    Nashbar brakes

    I recently bought the Nashbar 29er. It was a sweet deal with the 25% off coupon. I bought it to try out the Ridged Single Speed world and have not ridden my 26” Rock Hopper in the three weeks since I got the bike.

    The brakes had me worried at first . There are lots of horror stories on the internet about people that can’t even lock up the Tektro disc brakes. I had a lot of rubbing until I successfully aligned the caliper to the rotor. It can be really difficult to do this by eyeballing it. The trick I used was to align the rotor was to back the inside (fixed) pad all the way out, loosen the cable, then loosen the screws holding the rotor,. Place a plastic gift card between the rotor and the inside pad, then press the rotor against the pad and tighten the rotor screws. Pull the gift card out and adjust the brakes. I weigh 200 pounds and can easily lock up the brakes on pavement . I have adjusted them once after about 50 miles.

    The only complaint I have with the bike so far is that Nashbar doesn’t sell touch up paint and I had a brake cable rub some paint off a spot on the fork tube.

  13. #13
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    I use silicone spray to keep my seat and cleats/shoes from squeaking

  14. #14
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    lets get this thread back on track instead of a discussion bout the nashbar disc shortcomings
    susko, if you are still in the market for an inexpensive (guess that's the politically correct version of cheap) 29er & you don't look into the se bikes stout you are missing out
    my riding buddy got one of those bikesdirect deadeyes because he insisted he had to have a color & size they offered but let me tell you...the superior fit & finish of my stout in side-by-side comparison with his is obvious
    i wanted a monocog, but am thrilled with my bike & i think the $/fun ratio on my stout is unbeatable...

  15. #15
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    Just an FYI -

    The Dawes has a derailluer hanger + the rear wheel will take a cassette. So if gears are in your future... not a bad option.

    I don't own either and have never ridden either.

  16. #16
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    Ok, ignorant noob question.
    If you wanted to convert one of those bikes to a multi-speed setup what parts would you need?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by humanpackmule
    Ok, ignorant noob question.
    If you wanted to convert one of those bikes to a multi-speed setup what parts would you need?
    To go 1x9, you'd need a cassette, rear derailleur, housing and cable, rear shifter, and a new chain.
    Build.
    Ride.
    Repeat.

  18. #18
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    What diameter seat post clamp do I need for my 2012 deadeye?

    Been riding this bike for years, it's been really simple and great all around. Everything stock except crank brother pedals. Stock grips are getting replaced with ergons. Right now I'm running worn down 2.4 racing Ralph up front and 2.2 slant six in the back. My dream would be 2.5 slicks, something like maxxis hookworm or big apple. I mainly do short commute or around town, which includes some smooth single track. Maybe bump up the gearing. Stock tektros have been set and forget.

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