Changing a fork and ruining a bike?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    POWERCRANK addict
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    Changing a fork and ruining a bike?

    How much and how badly woud the handling change on a Niner One9 medium if I changed the stock for for a full carbon one (20 - 25mm shorter crown to axle)?



    here's the original steel fork - future rust problem?
    niner steel 490mm
    https://www.ninerbikes.com/ninerparts2.html (Yes, I watched the video)

    Carbon forks - no rust
    on-one 470mm
    https://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?m...ge&PAGE_id=162

    white bros 465mm
    https://www.whitebrotherscycling.com...cs=rocksolid29

    pace 465mm
    https://www.pacecycles.com/product.a...D=2&subcat=460

    Anyway, the $64 nub question (please bear with the nub) is would I compromise the bike's handling so much that it would become a twitchy, annoying ride or would I barely notice it?
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  2. #2
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    I use a bontrager switchblade on mine. I like it. I looked at the on-one, but I worry that the much greater offset combined with the steep HA would be too twitchy.

    Keep in mind too, the niner rigid fork A-C is really the same as a sagged 100mm reba, with only 2mm greater offset, but the Geo chart is based on an 80mm fork.

  3. #3
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    If you're worried about the fork rusting, get some J.P. Weigle framesaver and coat the inside of it.

  4. #4
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    Arkadi - how twitchy is too twitchy though given that it's only ~1 degree change? I know how touring bikes compare to cyclocross bikes but that's a 3-4degrees difference or more.

    Schmucker - yeah, rust proofing is an option but I'd raher not have to worry about it. I really want to cover the whole thing in tape so Birtish weather, anaerobic environment and steel - I can see the rust growing already .

    Any frame building, geometry or bike handling resources or gurus out there who can help please?
    shameless POWERCRANKS plug

    Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!

    my commuter

  5. #5
    Recovering Weight Weenie
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    it would be fine.

  6. #6
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    To summarize my experience with the on-one carbon on my one nine.

    It is good. It handles a tad quicker than the stock fork, but it is not twitchy. Takes away some of the sting of the earth too.

  7. #7
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    I switch between a WB Rock Solid and a Reba (set to 100 mm of travel) on my EMD. If I recall correctly the EMD geometry is the same as the ONE 9.

    With the Rock Solid, the handling is surprisingly quicker, which is not to say twitchy. I wish that I could combine the steering attributes of the Rock Solid with the suspension of the Reba. (Maybe a F29 or Manitou with the 44 mm offset would do the trick?)

    Bottom line is that the bike should still handle very well with a solid fork.

  8. #8

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    This post is sort-of off topic so I hope it doesn't bother you... but...

    Do you seriously think that rust would kill a rigid steel fork before you are going to fatigue or otherwise crack a carbon fork? I have never looked into calculations or material properties but that seems backwards to me. While it could depend on the terrain that you are riding, but I have rigid forks in steel and carbon and I have never been nervous on the steel forks. They flex notibly less and there is little chance of rock strike cracking them. I would say all in all the failure mode would be much more controlled and predictable on a steel fork rather than a carbon.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the replies - I tried the framebuilders forum at BIKEFORUMS and the best guess anyone had was that there'd be no noticeable change.

    The White Bros. and Pace forks are out because of the weight limit. So, even though the crown is 20mm lower on the On-One forks the extra 7mm rake compensates. At least that's the impression I was given.
    shameless POWERCRANKS plug

    Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!

    my commuter

  10. #10
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    It will most likely be noticeable. Even though the steering maybe balanced by the offset, your seat tube angle and bar height are going to change, too. You may need to raise the bars and scoot the seat back on its rails to keep from feeling too far over the front. Your bottom bracket is also going to be lower.
    I think the Niner fork is great. I like it's length and the ride quality feels similar to the carbon forks I've tried. I doubt that corrosion is going to be an issue. There's plenty of people running steel bikes and forks in maritime climates just fine. Good cro-moly steel is much better than your average carbon steel.
    As usual, it really comes down to your riding style and terrain. If you're riding smooth, windy trails the lower front end might feel good. But if there's lots of rocks and descents the lower front end and bottom bracket may not work as well.

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