BB shell facing.

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  • 02-03-2009
    justguth
    BB shell facing.
    My frame is a brand new Cannondale F2 29er and I want to install my new Race Face Dues XC crank set. I feel pretty comfortable with the install. I just want to know how necessary it is for me to face the BB shell? The shell looks great and can't imagine that is would be cut crooked from the factory. There isn't even any paint on it and the surface looks flat and clean.

    Any input?

    Thx
  • 02-03-2009
    duke of kent
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by justguth
    My frame is a brand new Cannondale F2 29er and I want to install my new Race Face Dues XC crank set. I feel pretty comfortable with the install. I just want to know how necessary it is for me to face the BB shell? The shell looks great and can't imagine that is would be cut crooked from the factory. There isn't even any paint on it and the surface looks flat and clean.

    Any input?

    Thx

    I've had 5 bikes now, including two Cannondales, and never had to face a BB shell.

    Honestly, I think that's a thing of the past, if you buy from any sort of reputable manufacturer or custom builder.
  • 02-03-2009
    justguth
    Thats kind of what I was thinking but wasn't sure. This is my first MTB and just didn't want to screw anything up. Thanks for the input. I think I'm just going to install it.
  • 02-03-2009
    duke of kent
    You should be able to tighten it 90% of the way with just your hands. Remember to grease the threads of the BB and/or the BB shell.

    If you feel ANY resistance, back out, and try again.
  • 02-04-2009
    slocaus
    I always, always, always face the BB shell. The slightest non parallel surfaces cause the bearings to bind and wear fast, plus they do not spin freely. Why pay that much for a nice frame and crankset and not take the little extra step to make it run perfectly?
  • 02-05-2009
    MendonCycleSmith
    90% of creaking BB's are caused by unfaced shells. Not so much the case with ISIS, Octalink, or square taper, but with the external BB cup style, there's a great tendency to allow grit to get in between the cup, and the shell, if it's even slightly off. Salsa's, Cannondales, Titus, BMC, Specialized, Trek, no-one is immune. And I have yet to put my tool to a BB and had it be perfectly in plane, unless the job had already been done, and let me tell you, they don't do it at the factory. A buddy with a Niner (who claims they do face them) had me do his, and what do you know, it needed it too. YMMV:thumbsup:
  • 02-05-2009
    CB2
    Excellent reason to stick with square taper!:thumbsup:
  • 02-05-2009
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CB2
    Excellent reason to stick with square taper!:thumbsup:

    In the same manner that a poorly prepped seat tube that scratches the crap out of your post is a good reason to stick with a cheapo seat post? ;)
  • 02-05-2009
    slocaus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    In the same manner that a poorly prepped seat tube that scratches the crap out of your post is a good reason to stick with a cheapo seat post? ;)

    Agreed 1000%. There is no reason to skip facing the head tube and BB shell, prepping the seat tube, only laziness, or lack of knowledge (and that can be overcome via MTBR pros). The relatively low cost to have a shop do it is well worth the cost; if you bought the frame mail order, it should have been done before it shipped. If you live way out in the boonies, then mail order the tools - Park has inexpensive ones designed for the home mechanic. They will last a long time and you will want to use them on every bike you have, now and into the future.
  • 02-05-2009
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by slocaus
    Park has inexpensive ones designed for the home mechanic.

    Sadly, not the case with facing and chasing tools. You're into it for big $, so unless you like having the tools just because, you'd better have need of them. You'd be looking at over $500 for both HT and BB tools.:sad:
  • 02-05-2009
    slocaus
    My bad, I was thinking of a HS press and BB install tools.

    Some years back in the boonies of Idaho about 10 of us got together and bought the HS and BB facing and chasing tools, since the closest pro shop was about 600 miles away.
  • 02-06-2009
    Johnny Chicken Bones
    "90% of creaking BB's are caused by unfaced shells."

    Where did that percentile come from? What's the percentage of bent seat posts to garages?
  • 02-07-2009
    Miker J
    Cannondale
    Cannondales, I've found, are one of the better frames for being "good to go" out of the box. It's still always a great idea to chase and face first. If you are itching to build the bike up asap, do it, see how it goes and then, if you run into problems, take it to the shop.
  • 02-07-2009
    justguth
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CB2
    Excellent reason to stick with square taper!:thumbsup:

    Well this crank set was donated to me by JensonUSA. Because I'm deployed they sent it to me with some tools except for the crank puller and the cup remover. I think the crank is nicer than the Hollowtech that came with the bike.

    I bought my bike new while I was here and had the shop put it together for me before they sent it. It looks to be faced but there is no way for me to tell for sure. I guess I could wait to install it untill I get home, but I just don't want to wait than long. I'm impatient!!!:incazzato:
  • 02-07-2009
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones
    Where did that percentile come from? What's the percentage of bent seat posts to garages?


    :rolleyes: Better if I said 85%? Or perhaps 91 would make you happy? The vast majority perhaps? Do we not have anything better and more meaningful to post?:skep: