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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpcremata View Post
    I live in CA and got mine exactly a week after ordering (although I think thatís faster than normal). Mine has gray decals.
    Thanks!

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    First time posting! I ordered the bike last week from Alchemy directly. XT 11 speed build. Can't wait to get it.

    Edit: Upgrading from a 2016 Giant Trance advanced 27.5. Hoping this pedals better.

    Anyone that has ordered from alchemy can post how long it took to get it?
    Also, what color decals you got on the forks? I see some pictures with different color decals. I hope I get it with the gray.
    I got mine within a week. I initially ordered the grey/blue, after receiving the bike. Swing-arm was damaged in shipping. Called Alchemy, they return my call in less than a hour. They gave me few options, since they were out of grey. They ended shipping next day another bike, but went with Blue/olive received it within 5 days. Fox forks have gray decals.

  3. #203
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    New bike day!! So excited, now I just need to do something about all this snow...



    One question, when I went though all the boxes there was one part I am confused about. What is this for?



    It was in with the foam tubing for the internal cables and the extra frame protection pieces.


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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    New bike day!! So excited, now I just need to do something about all this snow...



    One question, when I went though all the boxes there was one part I am confused about. What is this for?



    It was in with the foam tubing for the internal cables and the extra frame protection pieces.


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    That is the mount for the chain guide.


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  5. #205
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    Oh that makes sense, thank you. I didnít put it together as they were in separate bags, and Iíve never had a chain guide.


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  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    Oh that makes sense, thank you. I didnít put it together as they were in separate bags, and Iíve never had a chain guide.


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    Yep. It's easy to install, but depending on the crank set tube length and your cr, it may not fit right. I run the white industry m30 + their 0 offset cr and it's too tight on the inside.

    I had a raceface cinch set with a 3mm offset, tried dishing it both ways, and it was too far outside.

    Both of these mounted to a Chris king bb.

    I've not really notices a need for it, and I have ridden some very rough and rocky stuff lately.

    You're gonna love the bike!



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  7. #207
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    Got mine yesterday!




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  8. #208
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    Does anyone know what the max insertion is for a seatpost on a size XL Arktos ST? Iím thinking I can put a bigger One Up dropper than the 150 Transfer it came with as Iím 6í4Ē. Does anyone have a Transfer 150 slammed to the collar in a size XL?


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  9. #209
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    Question about chain line since the bike is super boost.

    My bike (XT 11 speed) came with FC-M8000-B1 which have a chain line of 53.4 mm

    Alchemy's website shows the XT/XTR 12 speed with FC-M8100-1/FC-M9100-1 which have a chain line of 52mm.

    I read online that super boost should have a chain line of 56.5. Shouldn't the 12 speed builds come with cranks FC-M8130-1?

    Anyone with a XT/XTR build can confirm what cranks you are using?

    I am asking because I am thinking of upgrading to 12 speed, but reusing the cranks and changing the chain ring for the wolfthooth one. I wonder if the 53.4mm chain line would work with 12 Speed.

  10. #210
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    Where is your chain centered on the cassette now? I can't see why you'd have any issues.
    I know on the boost bikes I had, non-boost chain line worked better, you may find the same thing in your situation- boost chain line being better than super duper mario chain line.
    Ripley LS v3
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Where is your chain centered on the cassette now? I can't see why you'd have any issues.
    I know on the boost bikes I had, non-boost chain line worked better, you may find the same thing in your situation- boost chain line being better than super duper mario chain line.
    The 5th cog counting from the biggest. The middle cog would be the 6th.
    The truth is that I rarely use the small cogs, so I would think maybe a smaller chain line is better. As you said, non-boost chain lines have worked better for you.

    I also wonder what difference 3mm would make. Anything really noticeable with shifting performance?
    Thanks,

  12. #212
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    Alchemy Arktos 29ST

    I have SRAM drivetrain. But my chainline seems to be about 60mm and is in line with the 7th (from largest) cog. Maybe 6.5. But Iím heavy, dirty, and slow, and tend to grind up stuff in the big cogs... Iíve considered a 6mm offset cog.

    Iíve also considered dropping 2 teeth from the chainring so I can pedal in a higher gear more of the time and have a bail out gear for the really long steep stuff.
    Last edited by reamer41; 02-17-2020 at 10:29 PM.
    --Reamer

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    I have SRAM drivetrain. But my chainline seems to be about 60mm and is in line with the 7th (from largest) cog. Maybe 6.5. But Iím heavy, dirty, and slow, and tend to grind up stuff in the big cogs... Iíve considered a 6mm offset cog.

    Iíve also considered dropping 2 teeth from the chainring so I can pedal in a higher gear more of the time and have a bail out gear for the really long steep stuff.
    What I have learned from this process is that there is no such a thing as a perfect chain line. As long as you are more or less in the middle of the cassette +/- one cog you should be good. Couple of milliliters more or less don't seem to be that important.

    Personally I rather to have my chain line towards the largest cog.

  14. #214
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    Looks like the 11 speed XTs are off the web site.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by scycllerist View Post
    Looks like the 11 speed XTs are off the web site.
    was a hell of a deal, you didn't expect them to last that long did you?
    Ripley LS v3
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  16. #216
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    I love this bike!

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  17. #217
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    Iíve got a few rides on mine and I love it. Climbs amazingly well and the build (on the XT) is pretty much exactly the way Iíd build a bike from scratch. Only exception being I love my Magura Trails and plan to swap them over soon. Nothing wrong with the Shimanos, just preference. All in all, an amazing deal and an amazing bike. Highly recommend to anyone in the market for a capable trail bike at a great price.

  18. #218
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    Speaking of brakes, I sold the M8000 XTís that came with my build because I want something with 4 pistons and Iíve read mixed things about the 8000ís.

    But now I canít decide what to get, 7120 SLX, which is basically the same as the 8120 XT but without the dimples on the lever and some adjustment that doesnít seem to do anything so worth saving some money there? These are the least expensive and probably fine for what I need?

    Formula Curas which seem awesome but some people have had issues with leaking calipers and stuck pistons, plus not sure if the local shops see Fomula stuff much.

    Hope is another great choice, but not sure I want DOT fluid and they are pricy.

    Magura, lots of power and good feel but I have read the levers donít like crashing and break easy, but some people run them with Shimano levers instead?

    All that I can see in person is Shimano and SRAM stuff (donít want SRAM, expensive and DOT fluid).

    My last bike had Shimano SLX 2 pot brakes from the 10 speed generation and they were ok, but never really a lot of power or great feel.

    I am a bigger guy 220 lbs ready to ride, but I donít have any big sustained descents here that will really test brakes.

    Too much information out there, someone choose some brakes for me!


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  19. #219
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    Iím very happy with the XTR 2 piston brakes. Love the bike!
    --Reamer

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    Speaking of brakes, I sold the M8000 XTís that came with my build because I want something with 4 pistons and Iíve read mixed things about the 8000ís.

    But now I canít decide what to get, 7120 SLX, which is basically the same as the 8120 XT but without the dimples on the lever and some adjustment that doesnít seem to do anything so worth saving some money there? These are the least expensive and probably fine for what I need?

    Formula Curas which seem awesome but some people have had issues with leaking calipers and stuck pistons, plus not sure if the local shops see Fomula stuff much.

    Hope is another great choice, but not sure I want DOT fluid and they are pricy.

    Magura, lots of power and good feel but I have read the levers donít like crashing and break easy, but some people run them with Shimano levers instead?

    All that I can see in person is Shimano and SRAM stuff (donít want SRAM, expensive and DOT fluid).

    My last bike had Shimano SLX 2 pot brakes from the 10 speed generation and they were ok, but never really a lot of power or great feel.

    I am a bigger guy 220 lbs ready to ride, but I donít have any big sustained descents here that will really test brakes.

    Too much information out there, someone choose some brakes for me!


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    What did you not like about the M8000's?
    I'm a bigger guy also, 6'4" 210, and feel that there is plenty of stopping power. No fade on long runs.

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  21. #221
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    Anyone have a in-frame water bottle solution?
    I'm thinking about going with a Fidlock setup mounted on the top tube, a bit pricey though.

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  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by schultzj01 View Post
    What did you not like about the M8000's?
    I'm a bigger guy also, 6'4" 210, and feel that there is plenty of stopping power. No fade on long runs.

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    I honestly didnít try them. Itís still winter here and my bike came un assembled so I decided to try and sell them as new brakes figuring I could get a decent price (which I did). I was a bit biased due to previous not great experience with shimano two piston brakes.


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  23. #223
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    First, I finally was a able to go for a proper ride. I love the bike! Super efficient pedaling platform which is what I was looking for.

    Since you guys seem active here I have two questions:

    1. Looking at the fox page, it seems the fox 36 does not come in 140mm, unless you order the kit to reduce the travel separately. Am I right? Or maybe alchemy puts an special order to fox. Does this mean that by buying the kit I can potentially increase the travel to 160mm in case I want to also get the longer travel shock and put the long travel linkage?

    2. What kind of derailleur hanger does the bike use? Has anyone order a spare?


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  24. #224
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    You can order the air rod to bump the travel to 160. You will also need the linkage for the rear shock, which is $50-60.

    Alchemy sells the derailleur hangar as a spare part. I ordered a spare when I bought my bike.


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  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    First, I finally was a able to go for a proper ride. I love the bike! Super efficient pedaling platform which is what I was looking for.

    Since you guys seem active here I have two questions:

    1. Looking at the fox page, it seems the fox 36 does not come in 140mm, unless you order the kit to reduce the travel separately. Am I right? Or maybe alchemy puts an special order to fox. Does this mean that by buying the kit I can potentially increase the travel to 160mm in case I want to also get the longer travel shock and put the long travel linkage?

    2. What kind of derailleur hanger does the bike use? Has anyone order a spare?


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    I'm going the other way with mine.
    Ordered an ST link from Joel at Alchemy, $75.00 shipped.
    I have 140mm air shaft ready for install.

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  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by mthopton View Post
    You can order the air rod to bump the travel to 160. You will also need the linkage for the rear shock, which is $50-60.

    Alchemy sells the derailleur hangar as a spare part. I ordered a spare when I bought my bike.


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    Thanks. When I was buying the bike I asked for the long travel linkage and they threw one for free

    I guess Iíll order a hanger.


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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    Thanks. When I was buying the bike I asked for the long travel linkage and they threw one for free

    I guess Iíll order a hanger.
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    Thatís pretty freaking rad! Get another fork and itís like two bikes in one

  28. #228
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    That is what I plan on buying at some point. On my XL frame it seems like I could fit a pretty big bottle along the top tube.

    Quote Originally Posted by schultzj01 View Post
    Anyone have a in-frame water bottle solution?
    I'm thinking about going with a Fidlock setup mounted on the top tube, a bit pricey though.

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  29. #229
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    I donít mind the XTs but my Maguras are just awesome. I really like the modulation and lever feel. Crazy stopping power but it doesnít come on all at once like Shimanos. Some people like that on/off feel though. I probably wouldnít have gotten the Maguras if it wasnít for a killer deal I happened to see, but really glad I did. Highly recommend.

  30. #230
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    Cable chatter solutions? What have you guys used?
    Not a huge deal to me but one thing that I'd like to improve/fix.

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  31. #231
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    I've got the little fidlock bottle on the topside of the top tube up against the seat tube, works very well! For those getting the linkage to change travel, does it require a new shock, or is it just a space to reduce stroke on the ST shock?

    My ST is going to be sold to a friend in my riding group soon. I want something more stable at speed and more suited to bigger terrain, so I ordered a Pivot Firebird.
    Quote Originally Posted by Owler
    Do not dispute right of way with a tree.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikinAggie View Post
    I've got the little fidlock bottle on the topside of the top tube up against the seat tube, works very well! For those getting the linkage to change travel, does it require a new shock, or is it just a space to reduce stroke on the ST shock?

    My ST is going to be sold to a friend in my riding group soon. I want something more stable at speed and more suited to bigger terrain, so I ordered a Pivot Firebird.
    Going from the 140mm to 120mm travel, confirmed with Joel that the original shock can be used. Going the other way, ST to longer travel, not sure....

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  33. #233
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    You may want to re-confirm... when asked Alchemy, they said the rear shocks tunes were different between the to platforms.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by dc40 View Post
    You may want to re-confirm... when asked Alchemy, they said the rear shocks tunes were different between the to platforms.


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  35. #235
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    Being an ST owner, I wonder how well throwing the long travel link will work for me.

  36. #236
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    the difference between running it vs how efficient it rides. When I spoke with them before purchasing the ST this past summer, he mention 140mm and 120mm had different custom shock tunes.

  37. #237
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    Open heart surgery.

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  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by schultzj01 View Post
    Cable chatter solutions? What have you guys used?
    Not a huge deal to me but one thing that I'd like to improve/fix.

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    Per the folks at Alchemy, I lowered the fork from the head tube and stuffed a couple strips of bubble wrap into the down tube. I used a thin dowel to push the bubble wrap in there.

    Itís been quiet ever since..


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    --Reamer

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Per the folks at Alchemy, I lowered the fork from the head tube and stuffed a couple strips of bubble wrap into the down tube. I used a thin dowel to push the bubble wrap in there.

    Itís been quiet ever since..


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    Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow!

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  40. #240
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    Alchemy Arktos 29ST

    They are shipping out a pliable rubber sleeve that fits over the housing now. However, to install, you have to disassemble the hydraulic hose and shifter housing and slide them over the housing. Thatís an ordeal - I think the idea of pushing some bubble wrap down in the down tube is a better idea.

    See pic below - the black rubber tube is what they are sending now.


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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by schultzj01 View Post
    Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow!

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    And maybe I wasnít clear. Those strips of bubble wrap have to pack the down tube. It has to be packed so that the cables canít rattle. It doesnít take much, but it has to be enough.
    --Reamer

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    And maybe I wasnít clear. Those strips of bubble wrap have to pack the down tube. It has to be packed so that the cables canít rattle. It doesnít take much, but it has to be enough.
    Did you use the foam tubes supplied by Alchemy and they still rattled or was the bubble wrap instead of the foam tubes? Deciding if I need both, and if not which method would be easier/quieter on the trail.


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  43. #243
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    I built mine and ran all cables thru the provided tubing. Dead silent. No additional padding needed... And frankly I m not sure I could fit anything else in there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_of_earth View Post
    I built mine and ran all cables thru the provided tubing. Dead silent. No additional padding needed... And frankly I m not sure I could fit anything else in there.

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    Excellent thank you! One further question, do the rubber cable ports that attach to the sides of the downtube come out to ease installation? I donít want to force anything.


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  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by schultzj01 View Post
    Open heart surgery.

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    How did it go? Easy? how long to disassemble and put back together?

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    Yesterday after landing a decent size drop, the brake hose touched the tire and broke the zip tie. Luckily I carry zip ties with me.

    I knew this could be an issue before buying the bike base on reviews.

    Does anyone have any solution? I dont like the idea of a zip tie around the frame.

    I was thinking attaching/taping a piece of thick wire to the hoses, that allows me to bend it and give a curved shape to the hose and prevent it to go into the tires? good, bad?

    I will try later today and post pictures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    Excellent thank you! One further question, do the rubber cable ports that attach to the sides of the downtube come out to ease installation? I donít want to force anything.


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    Yeah, they come out pretty easily. Have fun with the build!

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  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    Did you use the foam tubes supplied by Alchemy and they still rattled or was the bubble wrap instead of the foam tubes? Deciding if I need both, and if not which method would be easier/quieter on the trail.
    My bike was assembled by The Bike Co. so I'm not sure what they had done. Whatever it was it was insufficient. While I didn't love the idea of packing the downtime with bubble wrap - it has worked.
    --Reamer

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    My bike was assembled by The Bike Co. so I'm not sure what they had done. Whatever it was it was insufficient. While I didn't love the idea of packing the downtime with bubble wrap - it has worked.
    That makes sense, thanks for the reply! Iíll try the foam tubes first since Iíll be routing the cables through the frame anyway and if that doesnít do it Iíll stuff some bubble wrap in.


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  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    That makes sense, thanks for the reply! Iíll try the foam tubes first since Iíll be routing the cables through the frame anyway and if that doesnít do it Iíll stuff some bubble wrap in.


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    Sounds like a good plan. Thinking back, I think the folks at Bike Co. Said that they used bubble wrap, but not much of it.

    The tubes look to be a good solution.
    --Reamer

  52. #252
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    The rubber tubes are a great option for when youíre building your bike. But if shifter/brake housing is already run and bled, disassembling is a major PITA. Bubble wrap, I guess, is a better idea.


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  53. #253
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    I picked up my medium Winter Water Arktos 29ST with the 12-speed XT kit last month. I got lucky and timed my purchase with the Enve M6 wheelset upgrade promotion so I'm rocking carbon wheels. I haven't had much time to ride here in Boulder because of the snow but the bike feels good so far. I think the 36 fork is suffering from the glob of grease in the negative air chamber syndrome so I'll break it down before the spring thaw.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Alchemy Arktos 29ST-img_20200226_114621.jpg  

    Last edited by Tantrum; 03-04-2020 at 10:43 AM.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    I picked up my medium Winter Water Arktos 29ST with the 12-speed XT kit last month. I got lucky and timed my purchase with the Enve M6 wheelset upgrade so I'm rocking carbon wheels. I haven't had much time to ride here in Boulder because of the snow but the bike feels good so far. I think the 36 fork is suffering from the glob of grease in the negative air chamber syndrome so I'll break it down before the spring thaw.
    What is the symptom of the "glob of grease in the negative air chamber"

    I feel the fork not as plush as I would like. I started with the recommended settings. I know that most people, including myself, usually run a lot less air pressure than the recommended. I am about 10 PSI less than recommended, and 2 clicks less damping in both compression and rebound (both LS and HS)

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    What is the symptom of the "glob of grease in the negative air chamber"

    I feel the fork not as plush as I would like. I started with the recommended settings. I know that most people, including myself, usually run a lot less air pressure than the recommended. I am about 10 PSI less than recommended, and 2 clicks less damping in both compression and rebound (both LS and HS)
    Check out this thread for details and pictures: https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1068693.html

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Check out this thread for details and pictures: https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1068693.html
    Alchemy Arktos 29ST-img_20200307_090243.jpg

    Alchemy Arktos 29ST-img_20200307_090237.jpg

    I opened up the fork this weekend and found globs of grease covering the negative chamber port holes but it wasn't as bad as some of the pictures I have seen. I was able to add 10 psi to my baseline to achieve 25% sag so there is a noticeable difference there. The fork felt better on a quick urban ride but I haven't had a chance to fuss with the compression or rebound settings. If you think your fork feels harsh I'd recommend having it serviced to get rid of the glob of grease.
    Last edited by Tantrum; 03-10-2020 at 08:43 AM.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

  57. #257
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    Just another comment to reiterate what a great bike this is.

    Iím surprised that, as measured by PRs, it is my climbing that has improved more than my descending. But great all around, techy stuff, too.
    --Reamer

  58. #258
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    For sure. I finally got the chance to ride some trails I know really well a couple weeks back. Thereís one steep, rocky section that Iíve ridden 20+ times and maybe cleaned once before. Last week it didnít even feel like a challenge (apart from my lungs burning). I feel like this sport is 40% skill, 40% fitness, and 20% bike. Much as it kinda sucks to admit it, a great bike really does make you a better biker. This is a great bike.

  59. #259
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    Same here. Just beat my PR in one of my favorite trails by 7 min! From 1:15 to 1:08. That is a massive.

    Iím not in any better shape. Itís just the bike. I agree that it climbs amazing. The steeper seat tube angle helps. I used to develop some lower back pain in long rides but no with this bike.

    I wonder if anyone has tried any lighter and faster rolling tires. I would make this bike a rocket.


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  60. #260
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    I am so excited to ride this bike!

    I was thinking about tires as well. Where I ride it is rolling tight terrain with hardpack and roots, no rocks anywhere unless I take a trip to the rockies.

    Thinking of saving the DHF for trips and using the DHR on the front and getting a Schwalbe Rock Razor or something similar for the rear. Was looking at the Minion SS but Iíve read that they are pretty square on rims with an ID of 30 like ours.


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  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarzt View Post
    I am so excited to ride this bike!

    I was thinking about tires as well. Where I ride it is rolling tight terrain with hardpack and roots, no rocks anywhere unless I take a trip to the rockies.

    Thinking of saving the DHF for trips and using the DHR on the front and getting a Schwalbe Rock Razor or something similar for the rear. Was looking at the Minion SS but Iíve read that they are pretty square on rims with an ID of 30 like ours.


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    I would do the same. Just change the rear tire for something with less rolling resistance.


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  62. #262
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    For my riding the new XR3 has been decent on the rear. Super fast, enough side knobs for cornering but gives a little on climbing traction. Great tire for hardback.



    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    I would do the same. Just change the rear tire for something with less rolling resistance.


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  63. #263
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    Anyone have any back to back comparisons of the Arktos 29ST vs. Spot Mayhem 130?

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabo_mtb View Post
    Same here. Just beat my PR in one of my favorite trails by 7 min! From 1:15 to 1:08. That is a massive.

    Iím not in any better shape. Itís just the bike. I agree that it climbs amazing. The steeper seat tube angle helps. I used to develop some lower back pain in long rides but no with this bike.

    I wonder if anyone has tried any lighter and faster rolling tires. I would make this bike a rocket.


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    I built some fairly light wheels: carbon rims, Cx-ray spokes and i9 Hydra hubs with Bontrager XR4 2.6 tires. Rolls very nice. I could have ought lighter tires, but I like traction and durability. Still quite a bit lighter than the Spline wheels and heavy-ass Maxxis dhf/dhr tires.

    I didnít ride the bike much with the original wheels n tires, but it was noticeably more lively with the lighter wheels/tires.


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    --Reamer

  65. #265
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    The weather here in Colorado is getting better and I had a chance to get out and test the Fox 36 after clearing the extra grease. The fork continues to be harsh and not nearly as plush as I would like. I think the 36 is just too complicated for me to tune. I have 4 volume spacers and the compression settings wide open and it is so stiff in the initial travel. I'm running close to 30% sag as well. Does anyone have a resource on how to tune the 36? I'm bummed I have a $1,100 fork that doesn't feel as plush as the Fox 34 Performance on my Yeti.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

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    Harshness at slow or high speed...

    you try opening your compression setting all way open, then start backing off to your liking.

    Remember all three (air, rebounding, and compression) have direct impact and relationship... for example if you decrease your air for more sag, then you may need to increase high speed compression set to be more firm for high speed impacts... which may increase the fork to rebound back faster.. so you may need to slow down your high speed rebound.

    at slow speeds while cornering, if front end is pushing your LSC maybe to firm.. if you back that off one or two clicks to open , then you may need to adjust your low speed rebound by one or two clicks to open (counter clockwise) to allow the fork extend back faster.

  67. #267
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    Thanks DC. I'm going to make an effort to ride a short trail section and fiddle with the pressure, rebound, and compression in a scientific way to isolate the individual characteristics.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Thanks DC. I'm going to make an effort to ride a short trail section and fiddle with the pressure, rebound, and compression in a scientific way to isolate the individual characteristics.
    Here is pretty good video for starting points and breaking down everything...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by dc40 View Post
    Here is pretty good video for starting points and breaking down everything...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo
    Thanks again DC. I did some laps on a trail section yesterday and got some good data and I found I had too much compression and rebound. I backed off both and got better ride characteristics. I will fiddle with tokens and air pressure next.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

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  71. #271
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    Hi all, any one having issues with pedal strikes? The ST is about 1/2 inch lower than my old Yeti so I am still getting used to the lower BB. I have 175mm cranks and I am constantly hitting rocks with the crank arms and the pedals. I'm thinking of swapping out to a 165mm crank; has anyone else gone to shorter cranks?
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Hi all, any one having issues with pedal strikes? The ST is about 1/2 inch lower than my old Yeti so I am still getting used to the lower BB. I have 175mm cranks and I am constantly hitting rocks with the crank arms and the pedals. I'm thinking of swapping out to a 165mm crank; has anyone else gone to shorter cranks?
    Iím using 175mm cranks. Definitely more aware of the pedal strike issue than my old bike. I run the rear shock around 25%, and keep my eyes open.

    I still get the occasional strike.
    --Reamer

  73. #273
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    I went with 170s on my Arktos. It made all the difference. No pedal strikes to speak of.


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  74. #274
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    Thanks guys for the input. I'm going to go with 165mm XTs.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

  75. #275
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    Coming off a 2020 Orbea Occam and 2019 HD4 the Arktos ST came out of nowhere to me just when I thought I had narrowed on either a 2019 Fuji Rakan 1.1 or Commencal Meta TR 29 for a trail oriented stablemate to my Nukeproof Mega 290.

    I understand it has 120mm of rear travel but really looking for more of a brawler in a short travel 29er. Something for the longer climbing days but can handle some chunk (my favorite local trails consist of climb then bomb). I am more of a point and shoot rider and like the chunky stuff. Any feedback on the gnarlier chunk and how this bike manages? Also, the geo isn't the most progressive and I do see the stack is very high but no reviews touch on it.

    Thanks!

  76. #276
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    I donít know a lot about the Fuji or Commencal but, generally speaking, this is not the gnarliest of trail bikes. I think it slots more in the realm of the Ripley or Tallboy. Itís burly for sure, with the 36 and dpx2, but if youíre looking for something more on the enduro end of trail you might be better off going with something like a Ripmo or Hightower.

  77. #277
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    I would love a Ripmo but think it is priced higher than I want to spend for comparable components. One thing I found with the Occam with 140mm suspension is that it was much more on the sporty side but was pretty fast. The reviews I've seen on the Arktos ST seem to point to it being more on the aggressive side which is what I am after. Seems like Bike Mag's review liked it better than the Commencal and others in the test. Below is the roughest local trail I ride regularly (lot rougher than it looks in this video).
    I do I do have a full enduro for the super gnarly trails but would like something that can handle a bit if needed.

  78. #278
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    I rode the 2020 Occam with the fox 36 it felt more capable than the Arktos. It climbed just as good and itís about a pound lighter with the same build plus more travel for decending. The Arktos ST and Tallboy are a closer comparison. If you need more Bike than the Occam I would look at The Hightower, Ripmo, SB150, etc. There are tons of used Ripmos out there I sold mine about six months ago.

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyman View Post
    I rode the 2020 Occam with the fox 36 it felt more capable than the Arktos. It climbed just as good and itís about a pound lighter with the same build plus more travel for decending. The Arktos ST and Tallboy are a closer comparison. If you need more Bike than the Occam I would look at The Hightower, Ripmo, SB150, etc. There are tons of used Ripmos out there I sold mine about six months ago.
    Or get a Ripmo AF with a DVO coil!

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Hi all, any one having issues with pedal strikes? The ST is about 1/2 inch lower than my old Yeti so I am still getting used to the lower BB. I have 175mm cranks and I am constantly hitting rocks with the crank arms and the pedals. I'm thinking of swapping out to a 165mm crank; has anyone else gone to shorter cranks?
    I made the same observation on a demo ride. When I went in to Alchemy (I live about 2 miles from their headquarters) after my demo, they immediately recommended switching to 170 from 175 if I purchased.

    I built my own ST with 170s and have no complaints.

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  81. #281
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    Messican, I would say the Arktos ST is more than capable of handling that. I am point and shoot rider too. The frame is beefier than most trail bikes. This was one of my deciding factors... since it is same frame as it big bother Arktos.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_of_earth View Post
    I made the same observation on a demo ride. When I went in to Alchemy (I live about 2 miles from their headquarters) after my demo, they immediately recommended switching to 170 from 175 if I purchased.

    I built my own ST with 170s and have no complaints.

    Sent from my Phh-Treble vanilla using Tapatalk
    Thanks Mike. I see the build kits on their website now have 170mm spec'd. I'm up in Boulder so we might run into each other on the trails. Happy riding.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

  83. #283
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    Thanks for the replies! I am still debating but have it now down to SB130 LR, Arktos ST, and distant 3rd is the Fuji Rakan 1.1. I am sure all will be fine but I really like the value of the Arktos ST GX and the Rakan 1.1 (deal) but the Rakan is supposed to be heavier which isn't too big a deal. Wondering what Alchemy will be doing for 2021 models....no inside water bottle is a bummer as I do a lot of laps with just water bottle.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by dc40 View Post
    Messican, I would say the Arktos ST is more than capable of handling that. I am point and shoot rider too. The frame is beefier than most trail bikes. This was one of my deciding factors... since it is same frame as it big bother Arktos.
    I'd agree, the travel will hold you back well before you'd ever be concerned the frame could take it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Owler
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  85. #285
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    Itís a strong frame for sure. Letís not forget you can get the links and new rear shock and convert an ST to a 140mm Arktos pretty cheap/easily.

    Quote Originally Posted by BikinAggie View Post
    I'd agree, the travel will hold you back well before you'd ever be concerned the frame could take it.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Thanks Mike. I see the build kits on their website now have 170mm spec'd. I'm up in Boulder so we might run into each other on the trails. Happy riding.
    Awesome! I could be considered a local at Heil, so I'm sure we'll see each other. Waiting for snow melt...

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  87. #287
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    Tall guys, help a brother out:

    I've read/watched every review in the whole world on the ST; nearly all of them mention the tall stack height. Several lambasted the bike on that alone, but...

    As my 6'4" body (with long monkey arms) stands here looking at my bikes...all with a large number of spacers under the stem, I keep wondering: wouldn't this tall stack height be good for me???

    Also, my favorite bikes generally have a reach of ~50. Doesn't the tall stack sort of "compensate" for a shorter reach (i.e. a 485 reach/65.5 stack is about = 50.0R with 63stack)?

    Or am I thinking about this geo thing all wrong?

  88. #288
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    So Iím not an expert on fit and Iím also not one whoís into super-long reaches, but I can tel you Iím 6í2Ē and the stack height on the XL is perfect for me. Other bikes Iíve had to run spacers and riser bars to get to a comfortable height, which always ended up looking a little ridiculous. So personally I like taller stack heights.

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by smartyiak View Post
    Tall guys, help a brother out:

    I've read/watched every review in the whole world on the ST; nearly all of them mention the tall stack height. Several lambasted the bike on that alone, but...

    As my 6'4" body (with long monkey arms) stands here looking at my bikes...all with a large number of spacers under the stem, I keep wondering: wouldn't this tall stack height be good for me???

    Also, my favorite bikes generally have a reach of ~50. Doesn't the tall stack sort of "compensate" for a shorter reach (i.e. a 485 reach/65.5 stack is about = 50.0R with 63stack)?

    Or am I thinking about this geo thing all wrong?
    Yeah, the tall stack should be fine for you. Iím 6í 2Ē riding an XL 29ST. Iíve got one 10mm spacer under the stem, lo-rise bar. Feels great.
    --Reamer

  90. #290
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    I am also switching to 170mm cranks. Could someone tell me which specific Shimano XT crankset to get? Lot of options and not sure if it is boost or super boost. Thanks.


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  91. #291
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    I went with 8130ís. Those are the cranks for superboost


    Quote Originally Posted by Merrimack Dave View Post
    I am also switching to 170mm cranks. Could someone tell me which specific Shimano XT crankset to get? Lot of options and not sure if it is boost or super boost. Thanks.


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  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrunk View Post
    I went with 8130ís. Those are the cranks for superboost
    Thanks bd.


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  93. #293
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    Good to see these builds, my parts for Arktos 29 started rolling in yesterday, went full travel version and hopefully be built up in next 2-3 weeks, some parts just hard to get right now so I am being patient.

    Anyway keep the pics coming and there is also now a FB Alchemy fans and owners group page please join if that interests you.

    Keep charging on 2 wheels!
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  94. #294
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    Alchemy Arktos 29ST

    Quote Originally Posted by HEMIjer View Post
    Good to see these builds, my parts for Arktos 29 started rolling in yesterday, went full travel version and hopefully be built up in next 2-3 weeks, some parts just hard to get right now so I am being patient.

    Anyway keep the pics coming and there is also now a FB Alchemy fans and owners group page please join if that interests you.

    Keep charging on 2 wheels!
    Not seeing the Fan group. Can you post the exact name of the group? Thanks.


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    Last edited by reamer41; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:19 AM.
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  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Not seeing the Fab group. Can you post the exact name of the group? Thanks.


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    Alchemy Bike Fans and Owners Group
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

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    Thanks.


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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrunk View Post
    I went with 8130ís. Those are the cranks for superboost
    I switched to 165mm cranks and have had a huge reduction in the number of pedal/crank strikes. My Strava data says I have maintained my Watt output compared to the 175s. There is a sale on 8130-1 cranks here: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...RoC9HoQAvD_BwE
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

  98. #298
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    Alchemy Arktos 29ST

    Spent the day today swapping my Arktos from LT trim to ST trim. While apart, I replaced my damaged swingarm and serviced the fork while swapping in the shorter air rod.

    Overall, on a scale of 1 to 5 in difficulty, Iíd say itís a 3. Alchemy has excellent instructions on their website with exploded diagrams of the rear suspension. If you take your time and follow their guide, everything goes back together just right.

    Preparing for tear down:


    Everything is apart. Getting this bolt back in, circled in green, is the toughest part of the install. The bolt is keyed to the link and has to fit just right. Use the DS collet to pull it thru and twist to line up the keyed portion.


    While the fork is off for the air rod change, Iím going to shove some foam into the downtube to try to quiet the housing rattle. Interesting that the HS cups are molded into the CF.


    Getting there. Time for reassembly.


    Ready to ride again!


    Tomorrow... is wheel build day. Nox Farlow rims on CK hubs wearing Rekon tires.


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  99. #299
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    Hey guys, my Arktos ST just came in from Alchemy and Iím wondering if you got your bikes with the tires seated and just needing sealant or if your bikes came with tubes installed? Thx
    Pivot Mach 5.5, Pivot Mach 429SL, Orbea Rallon M-Team, Evil The Following MB, Specialized Chisel, Ibis Hakka MX

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    Tires just needed sealant and air. No tubes.


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  101. #301
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    Laced up a new set of wheels for my Arktos this morning. King hubs in matte mango, Sapim Race db spokes, black brass nipples and Nox Farlow rims. Used two ano orange spokes to the left and right of the valve stem.

    Looks sweet on the vanilla shake frame... canít wait to get some tires and get them on the bike.








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  102. #302
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    Looking good curious of your review on adjusting travel and key differences based on terrain you ride.
    I am super happy with how the full travel Arktos pedals and I don't even have suspension dialed yet. Lucky enough to also have a shorter travel FS bike also so dont anticipate on changing.
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  103. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by HEMIjer View Post
    Looking good curious of your review on adjusting travel and key differences based on terrain you ride.
    I am super happy with how the full travel Arktos pedals and I don't even have suspension dialed yet. Lucky enough to also have a shorter travel FS bike also so dont anticipate on changing.
    Happy to share some thoughts on the conversion. I did a couple of things in this LT to ST conversion. They are:

    1. Swapped the swingarm. The original swingarm I received had some paint damage from shipping, so the guys at Alchemy sent over a new swingarm that was ready to swap. Itís been sitting in a box for a couple of months waiting for the right opportunity to make the change. Another example of great customer service from Joel and the team there.

    2. Swapped from LT (160/140) to ST (140/120) setup. On the frame, this meant swapping the linkage and shock and on the fork, dropping the lowers and swapping out the air rod. While the fork was apart, I did a full cleaning of the lowers and removed the excess grease present from the factory. That excess grease is known to clog up the air passage from + to - chambers and make the fork ride much harsher.

    3. Added some foam into the down tube to solve the housing rattle that is noticeable when descending.

    4. Swapped the short 50mm stem to a slightly longer 65mm stem. Iím smack in the middle between a medium and large frame but went medium given the long seat tube and my desire to use a longer dropper (Fox 150mm). At 5í9Ē, I have a 32Ē inseam but am fairly short waisted, so I originally thought the reach with a 50mm stem measured out correctly. But, I needed just a bit more stretch.

    Iíve been riding my Arktos since 12/2019 in LT trim. Iíve been amazed at how well it pedaled and climbed for a 160/140 bike. Descending was a magic carpet ride over rough stuff (N GA roots & rocks). It was enough to make me overconfident and just bulldoze through stuff without thinking.

    In terms of reach, I really struggled on longer rides. The steep(er) ST, at least relative to what Iím used to, created some hip discomfort anytime mileage creeped up over 20-25 miles or so. I inquired with Joel about purchasing a large front triangle and swapping everything over. However, the cost of a stem was much less and worth a try.

    What I noticed in LT trim that is less so in ST trim was the bikeís lack of ďsnapĒ. Our trials/woods are tight requiring quick maneuvers at speed vs long, open or flowy type trails you might have out West. I sometimes struggled to get the bike to turn the way I needed it to and felt like I rode very high on the bike.

    Dropping to the ST trim did a couple of things. It lowered the bike first of all so that it didnít feel as though it rode as high. I realize that is strictly my ďseat of the pantsĒ perception but, it is what it is. Further, when I added the longer stem, I dropped it down a spacer to put some additional weight over the front wheel in hopes I could turn in a bit better. Third, cleaning up the inside of the fork made it come alive and took away some of the harshness that I felt before. The combination of the three really changed the dynamic feel of the bike. It turns better, I feel more ďinĒ the bike vs. ďonĒ the bike. Itís snappier in quick succession turns - think slaloming thru pine trees. The slightly longer stem stretched me out just enough to take pressure off my hips and really let me climb better on the bike. And, dropping the stem 7.5mm appears to put just a bit more weight over the front wheel in aggressive cornering.

    In terms of the specifics between the LT and ST trim, I was shocked at just how smooth and deep the travel felt in ST trim. I rode one of the same routes Iíve ridden several times in LT trim (Stanley Gap, Flat Creek, Green Mtn for N GA folks) and the bike felt effortless at speed down the roughest and steeper sections of Stanley. I had no issues with bottoming and, in fact, felt the travel was more useable for my purposes. Cleaning out the gunk in the fork really, I mean really, changed the characteristics of the fork. If you do nothing, pull your lowers and clean out the air side; there are good vids on YouTube if you need them.

    In short, Iím super happy with the bike in this configuration. I finished lacing up my wheels over the weekend and I think a stiffer wheel and lighter rubber is going to further transform the bike while dropping a pound of rotating weight. Canít wait for the 6-bolt rotors to arrive so that I can get the bike on the trail again this weekend.

    All this said, if I lived out West and rode in places like Moab regularly where there are big drops, huge rollers, etc., I would, without a doubt be rolling in the LT trim.

    Hope this helps!

    Mike








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  104. #304
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    @Tantrum,

    I am thinking about making the same switch. Are you glad you went 165's instead of 170's? I sized up to an XL as I was in between sizes do you think that would impact my decision?

  105. #305
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    Cannot wait to get my ST I ordered it on 7/2 it should ship out next Tuesday. I Ordered it with the GX package and currently it is equipped with the Rock Shox Pike RC front fork, will be getting 170mm cranks and 36 tooth ratchet upgrade on the wheels. I will be missing the engagement of my Project321 hubs though.

  106. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by NC_ View Post
    @Tantrum,

    I am thinking about making the same switch. Are you glad you went 165's instead of 170's? I sized up to an XL as I was in between sizes do you think that would impact my decision?
    Hi NC_,

    I'm super happy with the 165s. I don't have as many pedal/crank arm strikes as before. I don't notice the shorter arm length and my Strava data says I have the same watt output as with the 175s. However, I did have to raise my seatpost 10mm to compensate for the shorter crank length. I am not sure if this will be big deal for you on the XL but confirm you can raise your seat post 10mm and not be near the minumum insertion level.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by Tantrum; 1 Day Ago at 05:09 PM.
    ďWe are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different.Ē Kurt Vonnegut

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