8" rotor on KM fork...input?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Recovering Weight Weenie
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    8" rotor on KM fork...input?

    Apparently, the Avid 200mm adaptor will not work on my KM fork if I'm also using new pads!
    Using the old pads, I have enough clearance.
    With new pads, the caliper can't move over far enough.

    I just had a completely frustrating garage experience for the last hour figuring this out.

    I'm wondering if the Hayes adaptor would work better or if I need to get creative with the metal on the tabs or the adaptor...

    Any help appreciated...

  2. #2
    Recovering couch patato
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    Not sure where your problem comes from, but would a 1mm spacer on the adapter help?
    I managed to get a Deore disc, Formula 185mm rotor, Avid adapter and BBB pads to work together on my KM, the feel of that setup is very friendly, but strong when necessary. I did have to spacer the caliper to the adapter some.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  3. #3
    Re-friggin'-Lax!!!
    Reputation: WEBERTIME's Avatar
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    I hope I understand your problem...

    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    Apparently, the Avid 200mm adaptor will not work on my KM fork if I'm also using new pads!
    Using the old pads, I have enough clearance.
    With new pads, the caliper can't move over far enough.

    I just had a completely frustrating garage experience for the last hour figuring this out.

    I'm wondering if the Hayes adaptor would work better or if I need to get creative with the metal on the tabs or the adaptor...

    Any help appreciated...

    So your caliper is too far to the non-drive side to have the new pads clear the rotor? I had the same issue with my Shiver SC on my 26" bike. I just shimmed it over with V-Brakepad spacers. If it's the other way (inboard) take a hayes adapter (seem to be beefier) thread some scrap bolts in the mounting holes (fork, not caliper) and grind/dremmel a bit down. Once ground, screw the bolt in to clear the threads and then remove the bolts and try to mount up.

    Ran into this stuff when I worked at a C-Dale dealership and people were always trying to get Hayes on their Super V DH's (they were designed for sachs brakes) we got pretty good at this stuff.

    Hope this helps...
    Chris
    If necessity is the mother of invention, laziness is the deadbeat dad that knocked her up.

  4. #4
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    I think I explained this wrong.
    Looking down at the caliper/rotor from above/behind the handlebards...you'see the caliper bumping up on the rotor on the outside of the bike.

    A spacer would only make it worse pushing the caliper even further into the rotor.

    I've got loads of clearance on the inside pad and none on the outside where it's supposed to be.

    The solution will suck the caliper outside.

    I tried griding the powdercoat of the disc tabs, that hardly changed a thing.

    I need a skinner adapter I think.

  5. #5
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    Reputation: bigwheelboy_490's Avatar
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    Similar Problem

    When I installed the trek/fisher adaptor to mount a disc brake onto my Mt. Tam, I ran into the same problem. I'm using IRD Mechs, and the rear is direct mount. I took the bike into my local shop and had the adaptor faced. Remounted, and no problems now.
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  6. #6
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    Get the tabs faced...

    ...with the Maggie Gnanomat (sp?) IS disc tab facing/alignment tool. The build and paint quality on the Surly stuff is often off slightly - skewed to the benefit of durability and to detriment of high tolerance pieces like disc brakes.

    Had the same issues on the back of my Inbred.

    Anyway, have the tabs properly faced and they should remove enough paint and material, evenly, to allow you to run the brakes sans clearance issues.

    Also the bigger the rotor the more the slightest deviation off all-square will be magnified.

    Sean
    Professional Amateur

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