2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.

    well ive got about two weeks on the bike and would like some advice on upgrades since its my first bike in ten years and would like to get back in to xc racing
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-img_0841.jpg  

    2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-img_0876.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Can you be a little more specific? If your talking about losing weight, always start with the wheels. If your talking bling, carbon is the answer. If your talking about comfort, try before you buy. Hope this helps!

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    Thank's for the advice.. I'd like to drop weight while still comfort on the seat and grips everything else needs weight dropped. With wheels i'd like a strong pair that is lighter while not deep in the pocket book, If that makes more since.

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    How much do you weigh? Depending the best bang for your buck with wheels are Stans Arch wheelset. Going tubeless too. You have a heavy crank too so some weight could be saved there. Then the simple stuff like carbon bars (niner makes a nice bar) and seatpost. Also I believe your running a 3x10 if you don't need it look at converting to 1x10. I'm currently considering this change on my HT.

  5. #5
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    also look at performance too. never hurts to improve shifting so look at derailleurs. and if you don't like your brakes, look there too.

    good advice from subspd about wheels and other lighter upgrades.

    enjoy!

    edit: remember shifters too- x7s are nice- i don't know off-hand the derailleurs on the mamba but i'm sure they're entry level. i'm to the thinking of don't upgrade unless something isn't working correctly. obviously to get lighter is a different story though.
    - 1995 Giant ATX 870
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by subspd View Post
    How much do you weigh? Depending the best bang for your buck with wheels are Stans Arch wheelset. Going tubeless too. You have a heavy crank too so some weight could be saved there. Then the simple stuff like carbon bars (niner makes a nice bar) and seatpost. Also I believe your running a 3x10 if you don't need it look at converting to 1x10. I'm currently considering this change on my HT.
    PLUS:
    change seat post and seat, this are way too heavy
    I would go for DEORE cranks and single ring (34, 36t) see what better fits for your trails and riding style.

  7. #7
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    Thanks a lot and my weight is 145 any recomend cranks and by cranks do you mean crank arms its been awhile for me so sorry for so many questions, Hows Easton carbon bars?

  8. #8
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    Also i just checked im running 3x8 al i just weighed my bike and its a killing 35 pounds id like to drop at lest 10 pounds if not more but i think i'd be fine with ten for now would that be very exspencive?

  9. #9
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    i have a mamba and this is what i have changed so far
    BB7's 185MM fr / 160MM R, Avid SD Ti brake levers, Shimano SLX crankset w BB. Race Face Sixc carbon bars, Bontrager racelite stem, Cane Creek headset, HT AN01 pedals, Thomson seat post, Jagwire ripcord brake and shifter cables, Stan's tubeless.

    love my bike. its been real solid so far. that change of crankset made a huge difference.



  10. #10
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    whats the weight of your's if you dont mind me asking..

  11. #11
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    also do you feel a slight play in the head tube if thats the correct term

  12. #12
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    You shouldn't feel any play in the headtube.
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  13. #13
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    well theirs is how do i correct that?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjewell07 View Post
    do you feel a slight play in the head tube if thats the correct term
    i have no noticeable play at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by sjewell07 View Post
    whats the weight of your's if you dont mind me asking..
    i currently dont have the means to weigh the bike. it is a bit lighter though than stock

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjewell07 View Post
    well theirs is how do i correct that?
    Sounds like your headset might be loose. Try loosening the two bolts that connect the stem to the steerer tube and tightening the top-cap bolt a bit. Then re-tighten the stem.

  16. #16
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    just did and nothing still slight play.

  17. #17
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    i guess i should just ask should their be any play or movement in the front while the front breaks have a death grip on them?

  18. #18
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    Take it back to the shop where you purchased the bike to have them look at it.
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  19. #19
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    No. Best test for a loose headset or something loose in the front end is to grab the front brakes hard and rock the bike forward and backwards. You shouldn't hear any clunking or have any sort of movement in the headset.

    Your headset may still be loose. Check this out for some tips on troubleshooting headset issues:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

    Getting the proper load on the headset takes a bit of trial and error at first. It is really something you have to feel is correct. If too tight it will feel like it is binding and won't turn smoothly. Too loose and you have the clunking issue.


    Headset may not ulimately be the issue. Could be an issue with the crown in the fork or something else. Try fiddling around with the headset a bit more after reading through that link above. If that doesn't fix it take it to the shop to have a look.
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  20. #20
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    figured it out it was in my fork rebound dont no why but really havent figured the whole fork adjustment thing out yet.

  21. #21
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    Also to answer the upgrade question...

    1. Upgrade your pedals to clipless: it'll take some getting used to but clipless is essential for racing. I like the shimano pd-540 b/c they're user friendly, relatively light, and don't cost too much.

    2. Wheels: I'd guess your wheels weigh maybe 2400-2500g you could lose a ton of weight there. Since you're pretty light and want to race you could probably get away with stan's crest rims. If you ride particularly nasty terrain or think you're rough on your bike go with arches. Either way you'd likely drop over 1.5lbs of rotational weight and that's where it really counts.

    3. Crankset/drivetrain: I like my stylo oct cranks and they're probably at least a lb lighter than what's on there now. They can be had for under $200 these days. Going to 9 or 10 speeds in the rear would be good too.

    Lot's of other ways to save weight, fork, cockpit stuff etc. just depends on how much money you're willing to spend.

  22. #22
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    Glad you figured it out. As far as upgrades go...just ride and enjoy. Get some hours on it before you decide upgrades.
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  23. #23
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    Hereīs mine, came in near 14 k, now some over 11,5 k.
    xt brakeset, mt 75 wheelset, xt rear cassette, xt rear mech, ritchey bar and stem, san marco 180 grs saddle and deore cranks with 36t ring

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by azille View Post
    Hereīs mine, came in near 14 k, now some over 11,5 k.
    xt brakeset, mt 75 wheelset, xt rear cassette, xt rear mech, ritchey bar and stem, san marco 180 grs saddle and deore cranks with 36t ring
    Looking good! what size frame is that?

  25. #25
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    I love my XT wheels - good combination of weight and durability although there are probably better opt ions. You may find yourself quickly outspending the value of the frame before you know it. Good luck!

  26. #26
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    I have an 09' mamba. The only original part on it is cables and FD.

    First thing, I'd swap everything you need to make the bike fit you properly and comfortably. Light and comfy grips? Look no further than ESI chunkys.

    Best improvement you can make ride wise are wheels and fork on that bike, IMO. Drivetrains wear out and brake so swap those parts as they start to die.

  27. #27
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    itīs 17.5" , destickered the blue strips. Iīm thinking to upgrade the fork, but considering to save that $ for 2012 models maybe x-caliber... donīt know what would be better

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by azille View Post
    itīs 17.5" , destickered the blue strips. Iīm thinking to upgrade the fork, but considering to save that $ for 2012 models maybe x-caliber... donīt know what would be better
    why would you get x-caliber instead? If I'm not mistaken, the frame is the same except for color(same material, same geometry). The only difference between the various models is the paint scheme and the components. Since you've swapped so many parts already, just get a Reba fork and you'll have the same level or better components than the x-caliber.
    Is there some other difference that I'm not aware of?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    why would you get x-caliber instead? If I'm not mistaken, the frame is the same except for color(same material, same geometry). The only difference between the various models is the paint scheme and the components. Since you've swapped so many parts already, just get a Reba fork and you'll have the same level or better components than the x-caliber.
    Is there some other difference that I'm not aware of?
    youīre right, now the only difference is that... but for 2012 it may come with some upgrades.

  30. #30
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    Stans Arch Wheelset @ 1750 grams and can be found for around $460 although I think most websites are out of stock until beginning of July. A lil cheaper alternative would be the Sun Ringle Black Flag Expert/Pro, which are about 75 grams heavier for the set but are in the $325-$350 range. If you're a strong rider ditch your FD and front shifter and run 1x8, this coupled with one of the fore mentioned wheelsets running tubeless will save you 2.5-3 lbs and will be the most noticeable.

    Your Tora fork weighs 5.1 lbs (I used to have one) if you upgraded to a Reba RL (3.6 lbs) you would save 1.5 right there as well. Speedgoat has a deal on the 2011 Reba RL right now, I think they are $349, but that deal is for a white one only.

    Also ditch all your reflectors and the dork disc (just make sure your RD is tuned well) saves a few grams, you wont need those while racing ; )

    For around $800 you can be in the 25 lbs range with your Mamba. So you prob paid around 800-900 already for that bike if you bought new unless your LBS discounted it because of the 2012s coming in so that would be around $1600 for a 25lbs bike, thats not bad at all.

    BTW, I used to have a 2011 Marlin, sold it 3 weeks ago for $520 to help fund my Niner Build, great frame, held its value hehe, the Mamba has a better color scheme imo tho.
    Last edited by Bucktown; 06-17-2011 at 03:02 PM.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    why would you get x-caliber instead? If I'm not mistaken, the frame is the same except for color(same material, same geometry). The only difference between the various models is the paint scheme and the components. Since you've swapped so many parts already, just get a Reba fork and you'll have the same level or better components than the x-caliber.
    Is there some other difference that I'm not aware of?
    Most models will have a few upgrades in the Trek line, I know the 2012 Mamba will be 9 speed and have Hydros, so thats a nice bump up in components, I couldnt find a lot of info on the new X-cal or Cobia but I would expect some changes, but the frame/geo will prob be unchanged. I like the 2012s graphic/decals, but like the matte paint on 2011 more.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by azille View Post
    Hereīs mine, came in near 14 k, now some over 11,5 k.
    xt brakeset, mt 75 wheelset, xt rear cassette, xt rear mech, ritchey bar and stem, san marco 180 grs saddle and deore cranks with 36t ring


    Now thats a sweet Mamba if you dont mind me asking how much have you put into it so far?

  33. #33
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    I also removed the blue stickers after one ripped on my buddy's car rack two months after I got it. It makes the bike look a lot better IMO. And the gray underneath is glossy rather than matte making is a bit more subtle way of breaking up the paint scheme. I am also in the process of making my bike better (I started with a Cobia and swapped all the parts to a Mamba frame) and wheels are next on my list, I just have to save for them first. I was able to weigh it and it was 30 lbs 11 oz. And some parts on my bike are heavier than stock. I'll post pics when its light outside.

  34. #34
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    Well let's see it beer coffe water.. Also what is everyone running for tires xc michigan trails(roots,rocks,litte soft sand)?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjewell07 View Post
    Now thats a sweet Mamba if you dont mind me asking how much have you put into it so far?
    Also how much was your wheelset those are sweet!

  36. #36
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    Here's a pic. Stuff that has been changed so far: SLX 2x10 drivetrain, wide bars/short stem, headset, saddle, grips, went to tubeless tires, pedals. Also removed the blue stickers and others for a more subdued look.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-cobia-1.5.jpg  

    Last edited by beer_coffee_water; 06-18-2011 at 10:11 AM.

  37. #37
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    I have a 2011 Cobia, same frame, different fork and comes with Hydro brakes.

    I have switched out

    Crankset (M760 now) (890g) $60
    Pedals - Crank Bros Candy 2 (290g) $70
    Handlebar - Easton SL CNT (150g) $40
    ESI Chunky silicon grips (60g) $10
    Stem - Bont Rhythm Pro (135g) $20
    Shifters - 2011 SRAM X7 (huge difference from X5 shifters) (240 for pair) $45
    Saddle - Bont RXL (180g) $35
    Seatpost - Syncros (220g) $20
    Wheelset - Custom with Velocity VXC and Halo 6 hubs (about 1800g for the set) $245
    Tires - Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25 (front and back) (590g a piece) 1 free, 1 $70
    Rotors - Gatorbrake Aries rotors (74g a piece) $40

    My bike weighed in at almost 31lbs when i first got it...weighed it the other day on a fish scale, was 24.7lbs with my upgrades. All or most of my parts were bought off the classified forum or Ebay. Just need to watch some auctions, get a good deal on things. I spent $60 total for my M760 crankset. Granted need a new 44t chainring, but i never use it anyway. To me, its more of a toothed bash guard. I got my pedals when i bought my bike, so i didnt really even ride on the stock pedals.

    I went with cockpit first in my line of upgrades..did handlebar, stem, grips...got it where i liked it, went to saddle and seat post. From there i rode it a bit, didnt like the mushy type shifting from X5 shifters...moved up to X7 shifters. Night and day difference. Much quicker and crisper shifting. After that i opted for a new custom made wheelset and new tires. After i got the new wheel set, decided to shave off a lbs from my rotors (Promax DT160B rotors are 135g a peice). Now im just collecting my blue bits. So far i have got 4x lightweight (really really light) blue water bottle screws, blue seatpost Quick release, blue headset spacers and blue bottle cages. I went with the lightest stuff i can find without spending 4 times as much money on all carbon fiber.

    If you just looking to shed weight...the biggest savings are Wheelset, Handlebars and stem, Saddle and seatpost. From there, the amount of weight you drop for the amount of money spent starts is MUCH smaller. Rotors are a good example...can drop 130g (depending) for the cost of new rotors (Paid $40 for 2, shipped from China).

    Here is a pic.



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    Last edited by HighLife420; 06-18-2011 at 11:02 AM.

  38. #38
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    I used to think the 2011 Cobia was the ugliest color scheme, now that I have seen those de-stickered Mambas I wonder how it would look that way as well. Prob pretty good, makes me wonder what my Marlin would have look liked had I kept it.

  39. #39
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    how do they come off? it doesnt seem to be a sticker on mine.

  40. #40
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    The sticker on the top tube on my Marlin had a tiny bubble in it, and the side was peeling a little bit, maybe just try carefully picking at it

  41. #41
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    The light grey stripes on the TT, ST and seat stays are the stickers on the Cobia. The seams of the stickers are on the underside of the TT and seat stays and near the tire on the backside of the ST. A little heat from a hair dryer will soften the adhesive up, start at the seams and just go slow and they should come off it one piece. Goo Gone should take care of the adhesive residue.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
    how do they come off? it doesnt seem to be a sticker on mine.
    If you're taking them off your Cobia please post pics

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjewell07 View Post
    also how much was your wheelset those are sweet!
    if iīm not mistaken having the conversion done from pesos argentinos to u$s ~ 1300, without counting xt brakes, the bike costs here 3 month ago 1500 u$s
    thanks!
    Last edited by azille; 06-18-2011 at 08:34 PM.

  44. #44
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    a few questions about new shifters mines 3x8 what would be some good shifters to replace the stock shifters with also deraileur?

  45. #45
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    XT shifters work well and are a bit cheaper than SRAM X0 stuff. You can always find some decent uysed ones on ebay.

    I think you got some good tips on most parts. I would suggest the Ashima Pan Cake Brakes. They are by far the best value light-weight brake on the market right now. They weigh in at about 300g per set. I would go with the 180mm in front to get a little more power, as these brakes are a little bit weaker than the brakes you have now. Price is $130 or so per set new on ebay.

    I second the Stans Arch wheelset. Best value. The Crest are even lighter, but usually cost more. However, I see that a guy has a set of new Crest 29ers with XT hubs on ebay for $399. Not quite sure how he can sell them for so cheap, unless those hubs weigh a ton. I would check that out first. If these weigh more than 1600g, not sure it is worth it. He says he has 10 sets available. Richards Bicycles.
    Scott Scale 29er with Carbon Lefty at an insane 16.9 pounds.

  46. #46
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    Oh yeah, forgot to mention. When you upgrade drivetrain go with a SRAM XX or XO cassette. They are steel and ultralight around 200g. I would suggest a SRAM X9 2x9 system if you are on a budget or the XT 3x9 if you can;t afford the SRAM. If you can spurge go with a 2x10 X0. Not sure they make a 2x10 in X9.
    Scott Scale 29er with Carbon Lefty at an insane 16.9 pounds.

  47. #47
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    Trying out a new camera so I figured it was a decent excuse to try to show the gloss paint where the stickers once were.

    If you are looking at changing the drivetrain, SLX level stuff is nearly the same in weight as XT but 1/3 less money.

    I am sure I will drop around a pound when I go to 1x10 (the bash on a SLX double is reported 200 gm), get a similar bar in carbon and a new seat post. I need to stay the course and save up for new wheels which will give quicker engagement, less flex and cut pound or so.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-cobia-1.8p.jpg  


  48. #48
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    You sound exactly like me, down to weight and everything. I'm actually loving the ride so far. Haven't been biking in years and this thing is way more bike than I can ride. Mate endo'd it last week and bashed the rear DR out a little bit but it just climbs and rides over everything.

    Thank you all for the tips on wheelset.

  49. #49
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    wondered what was the weight of this frame, has anybody weighted it?
    thanks

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdcerreta View Post
    I see that a guy has a set of new Crest 29ers with XT hubs on ebay for $399. Not quite sure how he can sell them for so cheap, unless those hubs weigh a ton. I would check that out first. If these weigh more than 1600g, not sure it is worth it. He says he has 10 sets available. Richards Bicycles.
    XT hubs are pretty heavy - 250g front and 500g for the rear (ballpark for the M756s 6-bolts that I have). Matching those with a lightweight rim like the Crest doesn't make much sense to me.

    FCTi

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatchanceti View Post
    XT hubs are pretty heavy - 250g front and 500g for the rear (ballpark for the M756s 6-bolts that I have). Matching those with a lightweight rim like the Crest doesn't make much sense to me.

    FCTi
    Thanks for the insight. That must be why they are so cheap. I think it would be cheaper to have a set built by the shop. The Crest rims only cost $88 each from Stans. Hubs will be about $200.
    Scott Scale 29er with Carbon Lefty at an insane 16.9 pounds.

  52. #52
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    I'm glad to see you guys removing those decals. The stripes on my Marlin are bleeding onto my frame. I couldn't tell if they were decals or not.

    I like the idea of replacing or removing them a lot better than trying to get Trek to repaint it or swap it out -- bike's a month old.

  53. #53
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    im hoping mine has to go back...request a mamba frame to go with my blue bits =)

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
    im hoping mine has to go back...request a mamba frame to go with my blue bits =)
    I just heard back from my LBS about my warranty claim. They offered to replace the frame (yay!) with the LBS charging $140 to switch everything over (boo!).

    Or I could get a $40 credit.

    Wasn't really satisfied with any of that but I took the $40 and stripped the decals the rest of the way off. To me it makes the frame look unfinished because of the obvious lack of "matte" clearcoat underneath. Also, there's some black paint leftover under the decals that bled from the original painting process.

    I'm thinking of just redoing the white on my own.

  55. #55
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    How funny... I have a 2011 Mamba & one of the first things I did was to remove the blue stickers.

    It looks waaay better.

  56. #56
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    Yeah, as of now, I just took mine off, too. I liked it better before though.

    It's one thing to take them off because you want to and think it looks better. It's another to take them off because they've worn off over the course of a month.

    I don't know, people on here seem to think it's a silly thing to worry about. But when I buy a new car, I expect the paint to not fall off the body. When I buy a pistol or other firearm, I expect the stock or frame to have a good, strong finish.

    And when I buy a bike, I expect the paint to hold up to human contact. It's the principle of it to me.

  57. #57
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    i agree, its not like this is some wally world bike that we paid $80 for. The paint should hold up, not the end of the world, but its not right.

  58. #58
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    I am a fan of the blue stripe, just dont like tape stripes so I'll be taking it off and painting one back on. I refinish cars and paint/brush stripes for a living, so its no biggie
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-dsc03648.jpg  

    2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-dsc03651.jpg  

    "do it in the dirt "

  59. #59
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    just an fyi the stock tires on the 2011 mamba while having almost no knob height are the heaviest boat anchors ive felt the make steel bead sugaros seem light the stock schrader valve tubes are also holy chit heavy.the wheels r kinda heavy too but those tires/tubes holy cow i was shocked

  60. #60
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    hey thanks, i had a feeling they have alot of resistance, wish I upgraded before I spent the money on going tubeless..yea , I was riding other bikes and they all felt easier to pedal, not sure if it was just me tho. Thanks Again. I'm kinda clueless and not sure if the LBS is just out to sell me what they have in stock, sometimes.
    "do it in the dirt "

  61. #61
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    Hey guys, great ideas on what to upgrade on this bike.

    I just purchased a used one from my co-worker who was upgrading. He had already changed the bars to a Crankbrothers Cobalt 11 carbon, Crankbothers iodine 2 stem and cobalt grips.

    I just ordered an American Classic MTB Race wheel set, which are back ordered until May (boooo), and plan on upgrading the whole drivetrain and brakes to XO. Also picked up a Thomson Masterpiece seatpost last week. With these upgrades I should be able reduce the weight significantly.

    I really like the look of the blue sticker removed but am afraid that the paint lines underneath is not "clean"/sharp.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcc13 View Post
    I really like the look of the blue sticker removed but am afraid that the paint lines underneath is not "clean"/sharp.
    The lines are sharp on my frame and came off with minimal residue left behind. Goo-Gone took care of the rest. The paint underneath is slightly glossy. It sort of breaks up the dark grey to black on the frame. The pic isn't so great but it gives you an idea. I think it looks a whole lot better without the stickers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Trek mamba 29er advice on upgrades.-top-tube-pic.jpg  


  63. #63
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    Interesting, thanks beer coffee water. I guess if it's not to my liking if I take off the sticker I can always replace it with some sort of pinstripe

    Also it looks like you replaced the cabling cuz there's insulation running underneath the top tube whereas on mine it's bare wire.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by azille View Post
    itīs 17.5" , destickered the blue strips. Iīm thinking to upgrade the fork, but considering to save that $ for 2012 models maybe x-caliber... donīt know what would be better
    I believe they are all the same Alpha G2 gold frame when it comes to the aluminum frames. Just get a fork and save your money. Your bike looks good, just needs a better fork.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcc13 View Post
    Also it looks like you replaced the cabling cuz there's insulation running underneath the top tube whereas on mine it's bare wire.
    That's a hydraulic brake line. I actually bought the Cobia but had the shop swap to the Mamba frame because I liked the color better.
    Last edited by beer_coffee_water; 04-23-2012 at 11:10 PM.

  66. #66
    Speed Thrills
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    wow, too much talking and not enough riding. If everything works then just ide the damn thing. When something breaks, replace it would something better. If you're not racing then weight is pretty must irrelevant.

  67. #67
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    Ok, having second thoughts about doing a complete swap to XO components as others have said that it is really not cost effective in the type of riding I do or may do.

    What are my options so I can get the best perfromance with some weight reduction to boot over the stock components?

    tia

  68. #68
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    You'll notice the biggest difference in ride performance by upgrading fork, wheels, and brakes.
    Quote Originally Posted by danhasdrums View Post
    This place is like high school, except the morons here don't get automatically put in stupid kid classes...

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by probablecauz View Post
    i have a mamba and this is what i have changed so far
    BB7's 185MM fr / 160MM R, Avid SD Ti brake levers, Shimano SLX crankset w BB. Race Face Sixc carbon bars, Bontrager racelite stem, Cane Creek headset, HT AN01 pedals, Thomson seat post, Jagwire ripcord brake and shifter cables, Stan's tubeless.

    love my bike. its been real solid so far. that change of crankset made a huge difference.


    badass looking bike., i hope to get my marlin hooked up like that, once im more skilled riding. what kinda seat do u have?

  70. #70
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    these mambas are sweet looking.

  71. #71
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    Hey beer_coffee_water, just looked at your bike again and noticed you have recon fork/shocks. How's that working for you compared to the stock Toro?

  72. #72
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    I only have the Mamba frame. I bought a Cobia and have my LBS swap to the Mamba because I liked the colors so much more. I rode the Recon Silver TK for a few months but I was able to get a CL special Marzocchi Micro ti. I have to say the Marz is far superior to the Recon. I haven't felt how a Tora rides.

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    Hey guys, was wondering if I can get some input on the following:
    - shifters...is there a direct swap available?
    - drive train...not looking to break the bank but something smoother and better engaging.

    I recently upgraded my brakes to xt and it's night and day from stock.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcc13 View Post
    Hey guys, was wondering if I can get some input on the following:
    - shifters...is there a direct swap available?
    - drive train...not looking to break the bank but something smoother and better engaging.

    I recently upgraded my brakes to xt and it's night and day from stock.
    i have a marlin, would those brake fit mine?

  75. #75
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    Did some Christmas shopping for myself online..lol..and picked up some XT components (iSpec shifters, Shadow+ RD, cassette, and chain). Want to get a FD and crank too but have know clue what the BB is. Can someone point me in the right direction in terms of what I need to swap out the crank/BB and FD to XT?

    tia

  76. #76
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    Reviving this thread

    Just got the XT-M780 3x10 crankset and it came with a hollow tech II bb. Will this fit the Mamba (2011)??

  77. #77
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    Yes. You have an Acer with square tapered bb. Remove that.
    Before you put that new bb in I would pop off the covers and the bearing seals and add additional grease.
    This bb needs periodic cleaning and regreasing if you don't want to replace it often.
    To get the cover plastic piece off takes patience to use a thin bladed knife to pry around the outside edge using the side of the blade.
    For the inner bearing seal pry around the inside edge.

  78. #78
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    Thanks eb1888.

    I'm fairly new the mtb so this will be my first time removing/installing stuff . I was playing around with the bb and i know those two silver pieces come off but the plastic cover you are referring to....is it the black piece in the above picture on the left which is sticking out slightly? Where s the inner bearing seal located?

    tia

  79. #79
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    It's the black plastic piece on the left. Ignore the do not disassemble.
    When you carefully a little bit at a time pry it off the bearing seal is covering the bearing balls in the race. It's easier to pry off from the inner edge.

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    Thanks. Is there anything online which shows this step by step (video or otherwise)?

  81. #81
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    I don't remember any.
    1. Find the right knife. I use a thin , flexible , cheap grapefruit sectioning knife. But an inexpensive table knife would work. Rounded tip is important.
    2. Work the tip under the outer edge of the black plastic cover. Don't pry yet.
    3. Move the knife so the edge of the blade is under the edge of the plastic and the tip is out from under. The object is to get as much blade under the edge as possible. It will look like you are set to saw the underside of the cover.
    4. Now pry lightly. Without removing the blade from under the cover move it around to the other side and repeat so that you pry up the cover a little at a time.

  82. #82
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    Thanks eb1888. Really appreciate the help and instructions. I think I'll tackle this when the time comes just in case I screw up a new bb

    What are the signs to a bb in need of service?

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