2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...

    Wheelset came in today. "Out of the box", the craftsmanship and build seem top notch. Spoke tension is good and rim is true and free from any flaws.

    The rims come with a yellow transparent tape installed. From the looks of it, seems that they will setup tubeless just fine with the installed tape. Clay at AC said there is the need for Stans 25mm tape to be added but I do not see why. I am going to give mounting my Aspens a shot and see if they seal.

    Advertised weight is right on. Wheelset with tape and valves Installed is 1630g. Look forward to trying my first American Classic product. Shall be a good test for the durability of this wheelset as I am 208lbs. Wheelset will be put on my 2010 Hi-Fi Pro XL. Used mainly for XC trails/races.



  2. #2
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    cost? looks killer sweet!!! congrats

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    they certainly look sweet.

  5. #5
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    I think they look ok. Some would not prefer the decals. I wish the hubs were still black but will deal with the Red since it is the new Design. Ashame the only Red on my bike it the rebound knob on the bottom of my black Fox Fit fork.

  6. #6
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    what is the pawl/engagement on the 2010 stuff?
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  7. #7
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    Any way you could post a pic of the inner rim profile where the tire bead will sit?
    They must be pretty wide if they can fit the 25mm tape.

  8. #8
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    I was really into AC's wheels when I felt the pricing was reasonable. Now, I see no reason to pay $800 for AC's when you can get a set of Stan's ZTR 355's laced to ZTR hubs for $465. I have probably 1500 miles on my ZTR hubs with zero problems. I have a 6 month old 2009 AC wheel that I can't get the hub to stop slipping/skipping on.

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    They measure 21mm inside with a set of calipers. So they are a little wider than that if you take account of the bead barb.

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    1-bar, I am not positive on the hub specs. Will ask Clay later today.

    Yogiprophet, I will take a pic later today. The 25mm Tape does fit. I went with this wheelset b/c I like the wider rim. The new Crest from Stans has the same 185lb weight limit as the 355. Which is a no go for me. I was looking for a race day only wheelset for me and with this rim being wider and deeper, and the weight at 1600g.... looked to fit the bill. Claimed weight limit of 235lbs. I will be interested to see how the wheel and hub holds up.

  11. #11
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    And the yellow tape that comes with them is just the crappy plastic rim strip that comes with most wheels these days. You can move it around with your finger and pop it out with a lever. It most definately will not hold air with that in there.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blrogers
    And the yellow tape that comes with them is just the crappy plastic rim strip that comes with most wheels these days. You can move it around with your finger and pop it out with a lever. It most definately will not hold air with that in there.

    Do you have this wheelset? The wheelset I have is taped with a yellow transparent tape that if peeled up at the over lap is just about the same as Stans tape. It is very much so "stuck" in place and will not move around or pop out. I am going to try and see if the rim/tire seals with just this tape.

    Have you tried and it does not?

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    Yes I do. Mine came with the shitty plastic rim strip. Sounds like yours has actual tape. Give it a go. I sealed up a velocity vxc with some 21mm yellow tape and some elctrical tape so I will probably work.

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    I will take the pic for yogiprophet later today. In the pic you will be able to see the "tape". It is deff a tape as where it is overlapped there are a few bubbles.

    blrogers, your 2010 wheelset came with a plastic strip that just pops out?

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    They look rad. I am interested to see how they handle your weight. I am just a touch of 200lbs myself and want this wheelset.
    29" Trail Assault.

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    Yes it did. If it doesn't mOve side to side then it is tape. I have an in at a shop so they don't prep a lot of my stuff on account of the sweet deal I get and that I like to do my own wrenching. The benefits of owning a pizza place Sounds like whoever you bought them from went the extra mile and taped them up for you.

  17. #17
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    No they came out of the box with this yellow transparent tape installed. Interesting.

  18. #18
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    6 cam actuated pawls, 24 points of engagement.

  19. #19
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    Update:

    Just off the phone with Clay at AC. The wheels that are shipping now and in the future are coming with AC Rim Tape. He says my wheelset was one of the first to ship with the "in house" tape installed. All that is needed is the valve and Sealant.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    Update:

    Just off the phone with Clay at AC. The wheels that are shipping now and in the future are coming with AC Rim Tape. He says my wheelset was one of the first to ship with the "in house" tape installed. All that is needed is the valve and Sealant.
    i got my set back in november and it came with just a strip that easily popped out. used stans yellow tape and valve which i assume is basically what ac is supplying.

  21. #21
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    Keep us updated as you get more rides on this wheelset. I weigh in around the same as you (probably more like 215 with camelbak and whatnot) and would like to know how they hold up.
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    They set up tubeless really fast If you soap/water the bead and the rim you can inflate them with a floor pump. Some tires are harder than others. My schwalbe little Albert inflated right up. The bontrager tlr was a little harder b/c the bead was so tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    1-bar, I am not positive on the hub specs. Will ask Clay later today.

    Yogiprophet, I will take a pic later today. The 25mm Tape does fit. I went with this wheelset b/c I like the wider rim. The new Crest from Stans has the same 185lb weight limit as the 355. Which is a no go for me. I was looking for a race day only wheelset for me and with this rim being wider and deeper, and the weight at 1600g.... looked to fit the bill. Claimed weight limit of 235lbs. I will be interested to see how the wheel and hub holds up.
    Someone from Notubes needs to clarify the Crest weight limit issue because I keep hearing both that it does and it doesn't. So, any definitive answer on that one? I guess I should just call Notubes.

    Those AC wheels look sweet.

  24. #24
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    Pete at NoTubes informed me that the Crest basically replaces the 355. Weight limit of 185.

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    I know I read on some thread about someone calling notubes and being told there is no weight limit on the Crests. You would think that would be the kind of info to put on their website.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishlips
    I know I read on some thread about someone calling notubes and being told there is no weight limit on the Crests. You would think that would be the kind of info to put on their website.

    lets think about this logically for a minute. the 355 which weighs 410g has a weight limit of 185lbs, the crest weighs 365g. now i know i can conclude from that that there is no way the crest is going to have a higher weight limit than the 355.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishlips
    I know I read on some thread about someone calling notubes and being told there is no weight limit on the Crests. You would think that would be the kind of info to put on their website.
    After reading the WeatherMan's post today, that is exactly what I did this morning. Not sure who I talked to, but they didn't really know what they were talking about. I told him I was using a SS hub (even though I will be using gears) with the 355 and he told me that for single speeders, the weight limit was much less - like 155 lbs....WHAT???? "because a singlespeeder puts more torque on the hub"
    What a load of $hit! That is a misconception and he should know better being in the wheel business. A SS hub should put less stress on the rim because it is tensioned evenly. And, I can apply a hell of a lot more torque with a 22 front 34 rear than a single speeder with a 32 front and whatthehellever on the rear. Anyway, I tried to clue the dip$hit in, and told him they ought to put some info about weight limits on their website but I was talking with a robot so he couldn't compute...he left me with that "there are too many variables to give a weight limit. All I have to say to that is there are a LOT of people out their who are riding those rims who are over 155lbs. A good friend is sponsored by them. He is about 210lbs. and he rides SS.
    The simple truth is they are too damn cheap to put in eyelets which is why the weight limit is so low. The competetors use eyelets and are charging the same price or less. The excuse about trying to save weight is BS. Eyelets add about 12 grams or so.
    I have to give it to Stan for his innovation though. Making a light tubeless rim and having a low shoulder to decrease pinch flats are what make his rims barely worth it even though they don't last.
    With that said however, I wish AC would sell rims so I could put them on my hubs.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody
    lets think about this logically for a minute. the 355 which weighs 410g has a weight limit of 185lbs, the crest weighs 365g. now i know i can conclude from that that there is no way the crest is going to have a higher weight limit than the 355.
    Thanks for the logic. By the way, I just checked and I didn't see any posted weight limits for the 355 rim on the notubes site. I didn't check everywhere, so it may be there. Heck the ZTR race has a weight limit of 170 lbs, it would seem that the Crest could be higher than 185 lbs.

  29. #29
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    thanks weatherman....... called clay today.. and ordered my set just like yours with 185 mm rotors in front and 160 mm in the back of the elixirs brakes...... weight up to 234lbs say clay. they look sharp and will look awesome with my raw rip niner 9 and redwin sram xo parts.... thanks for the update and more pics please....

  30. #30
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    Hey Weatherman...

    Stan's has a few different valves with slightly different "interfaces". Which valves did you use for your 2010 ACs?

  31. #31
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    I placed the standard Stan's valve in this wheelset.

    Sorry I do not have Review of this wheelset yet. We still have a foot plus of snow on the ground. Have not been able to ride these wheels yet.

  32. #32
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    UPDATE:

    Snow has melted here. Looks like next week will be rideable. Today I mounted Maxxis Aspens on this wheelset. I used No soap or water. Just 1 scoop of Stans. Tires went on with ease. Air compressor was needed to get the bead to seat. After shaking and rotating a few times the tires n rims have sealed great.

    After using all Stan's wheels and the ease of using his rims tubeless, I am very pleased this wheelset has worked so easy.

    Next week I will have some time to ride this wheelset and will post thoughts.

  33. #33
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    No one else can post a ride report on these wheels? Just curious.
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    I just ordered this wheelset. If they come in tomorrow afternoon I will ride them that evening. If not I will race them on Sunday and I will let you know.

  35. #35
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    MASSIVE rotors on lightweight XC wheels don't make sense...

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    I have and they are awesome.... nice paw engagement... spins very nicely and gave me great confidence and support in the berms and turns

  37. #37
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    I run (as do many others) 185/7" rotors on all of my bikes, works great.

    What's it to ya DFYFZX ?

  38. #38
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    I'm not bashing you, just asking. Just seems oxymoron to spend a bit of dough on a nice set of lightweight wheels only to weigh them down when that much stopping power is a bit overkill for XC riding. You could have shaved a quarter pound off your rotating mass is all. Like I said, it's your choice though And I'm very aware that a lot of guys run them, as did I since they came stock on my F29er, but I just "upgraded" to 6" front and back and can't tell a difference. The bike will still toss me at will

  39. #39
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    I prefer the 185 rotor in the front and I have no problem with the added 18g the XX 185 rotor adds over the 160.

  40. #40
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    Larger wheel diameter, larger rotor... OR more powerful brake make sense to me.
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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    I prefer the 185 rotor in the front and I have no problem with the added 18g the XX 185 rotor adds over the 160.

    - EXACTLY! You get better heat disipation, less fade, minimal weight gain....Better feel....

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody
    lets think about this logically for a minute. the 355 which weighs 410g has a weight limit of 185lbs, the crest weighs 365g. now i know i can conclude from that that there is no way the crest is going to have a higher weight limit than the 355.
    The crest is more shallow and wider (inside measurement) than the 355. Meaning its a different rim, not just one with less material. It is sometimes possible from an engineering standpoint to go both lighter and stronger at the same time.

    I feel you on the crest (unproven and lighter) vs. 355 though, which is why the wheelset I just got built uses 355's.

  43. #43
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    First Ride Impressions:

    Went for a 19mile ride today. Wheelset feels like cheating at this weight, for someone my Size(6'3 208lbs). Wheels felt very stiff with no flex under my weight. Went through many rock gardens and log crossings at speed with no problems. I also must add that the redesigned rear hub feels great with very good engagement. More so then my other wheelsets with Hope ProII's. Time will tell with bearing longevity and how true they stay.
    After this first ride, tension and trueness of the wheel was the same as out of the box. Still holding air perfectly with no leak down at all with Maxxis Aspens.

    For those curious. The color match is dead on for Fly100's.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...-fly1002.jpg  

    Last edited by WeatherMan; 03-21-2010 at 09:54 AM.

  44. #44
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    Keep us updated on how they hold up for you.

    Remember reading a review in DirtRag a while back where Maurice (230#s) put a set through the ringer and had great things to say about them. Sounded like he rode them hard with no issues and he raved about the way they climbed.

    Sounds like they could be a good choice if they will hold up.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    First Ride Impressions:

    Went for a 19mile ride today. Wheelset feels like cheating at this weight, for someone my Size(6'3 208lbs). Wheels felt very stiff with no flex under my weight. Went through many rock gardens and log crossings at speed with no problems. I also must add that the redesigned rear hub feels great with very good engagement. More so then my other wheelsets with Hope ProII's. Time will tell with bearing longevity and how true they stay.
    After this first ride, tension and trueness of the wheel was the same as out of the box. Still holding air perfectly with no leak down at all with Maxxis Aspens.

    For those curious. The color match is dead on for Fly100's.
    Looking good! The wheels might outlast the frame.....

    BB

  46. #46
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    I agree. So far so good. Will report back as the mileage grows. I think AC has something here for people wanting a lightweight 29 wheelset which will hold up and is tubeless ready with a slight wider rim.


    Dont say that Bruce!! lol......

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    Rec'd my set in the mail today (white). I should have a report in a few days. Hold me to it.

    Thanks for the scoop on the Stan's Standard valve. LBS didn't have any in stock, so I'll ride them with tubes this weekend...either with Racing Ralphs or Pythons.

  48. #48
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    So rumor has it most or all of the 2010 Am Classic wheelset hubs (fr) are convertible to 15mm? Anyone know if this is correct and do the wheelsets come with the adaptors?

  49. #49
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    Yes, the front wheel converts to 15mm. There is a "How to" section on their web site. The conversion kit is not included with the wheel.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dosbikers
    Yes, the front wheel converts to 15mm. There is a "How to" section on their web site. The conversion kit is not included with the wheel.
    Thanks

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    I agree. So far so good. Will report back as the mileage grows. I think AC has something here for people wanting a lightweight 29 wheelset which will hold up and is tubeless ready with a slight wider rim.


    Dont say that Bruce!! lol......
    Did you put the Bonti's on the HiFi? You did just what I would have done....more red on the F100
    Have you weighed the Bonti scandiums yet? Just curious how close they were to the AC's
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  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcrockymountainrider
    So rumor has it most or all of the 2010 Am Classic wheelset hubs (fr) are convertible to 15mm? Anyone know if this is correct and do the wheelsets come with the adaptors?
    You can order the conversion kit directly from AC. They cost $35.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big_slacker
    The crest is more shallow and wider (inside measurement) than the 355. Meaning its a different rim, not just one with less material. It is sometimes possible from an engineering standpoint to go both lighter and stronger at the same time.

    I feel you on the crest (unproven and lighter) vs. 355 though, which is why the wheelset I just got built uses 355's.

    Seems like all they did was change the shape of the 'hook' of the rim a bit, making it smaller (which doesn't seem like a good thing) and make the overall shape of the rim a bit shallower (roughly 1.1mm).

    I don't imagine the slight change in rim depth changes the strength of the rim all that much, but it seems to me there could be a problem with designing the hook of the rim so that it's barely a hook at all. I'm surprised you can't just pop a tire right off the thing. But, then again, I'm not an engineer so what do I know???

  54. #54
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    looks great on your bike. I have a set of the original ACs 29er wheels -- still running smooth and strong! my only beef is that I wish they were tubeless specific like yours!

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by uknathank
    looks great on your bike. I have a set of the original ACs 29er wheels -- still running smooth and strong! my only beef is that I wish they were tubeless specific like yours!

    Call AC. I think they'll do a rebuild of your wheels using your old hubs and the new rims for about $375 or so.

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    Hold... Hold.... Hold.....

    Quote Originally Posted by SupaFli
    Rec'd my set in the mail today (white). I should have a report in a few days. Hold me to it.

    Thanks for the scoop on the Stan's Standard valve. LBS didn't have any in stock, so I'll ride them with tubes this weekend...either with Racing Ralphs or Pythons.

    Holding you to it, Sir. Let's here that report. TIA

  57. #57
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    Ordered a set today

    Said it should be here in 5 days or so. Can't wait!
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  58. #58
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    197 miles on this Wheelset so far.

    So far nothing but positive things to report. Wheels have stayed true and evenly tensioned under my 208lb + gear self. I have ridden some rock ridden trails at speed and not picked the "smooth" line. The Hubs are spinning smooth and freely and the rear hub has good engagement. Good enough for XC Racing/Riding. XTR Cassette has not eaten into the freehub body at all, thanks to the inserts.

    I have Maxxis Apens mounted on these wheels and the volume of this tire is larger on this rim compared to some riding friends with them on 355/Arches. Slighty wider Rim does help.

    I honestly feel American Classic has hit the nail on the head here. 1600g 29'er Wheelset that is tubeless ready and a slightly wider profile that does hold up under somone 200lb +! Hard to find that combo!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...-fly.jpg  


  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Ark
    I was really into AC's wheels when I felt the pricing was reasonable. Now, I see no reason to pay $800 for AC's when you can get a set of Stan's ZTR 355's laced to ZTR hubs for $465. I have probably 1500 miles on my ZTR hubs with zero problems. I have a 6 month old 2009 AC wheel that I can't get the hub to stop slipping/skipping on.

    Have you sent it to AC?

    Or easy to overhaul yourself - some cone wrenches and allens
    probably has too much grease on the pawls

    take it apart, clean it off and put some lighter weight and minimal amount
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  60. #60
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    Posting for the folks looking for info.

    I had to drill out the hole to fit the Stan's Standard valve. Not a big deal, but certainly now will only be using Stan's valves. I called AmClassic 5 times looking for an answer on the proper valves without a return call and just went ahead and got it done. Very simply mod and the rim strips were very snug.

    Wheels ride great. Look great too.

  61. #61
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    Will these wheels take a SRAM XX 10-speed cassette?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupaFli
    Posting for the folks looking for info.

    I had to drill out the hole to fit the Stan's Standard valve. Not a big deal, but certainly now will only be using Stan's valves. I called AmClassic 5 times looking for an answer on the proper valves without a return call and just went ahead and got it done. Very simply mod and the rim strips were very snug.

    Wheels ride great. Look great too.
    Wait. You're using a rubber rim strip on the new tubeless AC wheels? Tape and valves are all you need.

  63. #63
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    I have this wheelset, in the white color.



    I have about 50 miles on them so far. They are light, stiff and very responsive. They seem to be strong. I weigh 140 lbs w/o gear though. Mine came with the new rim tape in it. Clear, very nice stuff. I am running Race Kings 2.2. I will switch to Stan's No Tubes pretty soon but for now running tubes.

    One thing to note I did ding the sidewall of my rear wheel on my first ride. I lost my line and crashed pretty hard on a downhill section. The rim must have hit a rock. It did get knocked out of true. The LBS trued the wheel, no hop at all and 45 miles later they are still true. I was really worried that this would cause a weak point in the rim but it seems to be holding up. I have gone off 1-2 foot drops and jumped and it is still in true.


    I picked mine up for $690 at bike29.com.
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  64. #64
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    Just built mine up

    Picked these up from the LBS yesterday and built them up last night.
    I wouldn't call the "rim tape" 'tape". I'd call it film. Totally transparent and not what I expected. I put in my standard presta valve (not stans), so I didn't enlarge the hole. Sealed up well. Back was fine this am. Front needed air, but will give it another whirl.

    They are exactly what I wanted the bike to look like!! Dropped 1.8lbs from old set. Bike is now at 28.8 with Nevegal on front which weighs 840g alone
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...-img_1090-50%25redux.jpg  

    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    Picked these up from the LBS yesterday and built them up last night.
    I wouldn't call the "rim tape" 'tape". I'd call it film. Totally transparent and not what I expected. I put in my standard presta valve (not stans), so I didn't enlarge the hole. Sealed up well. Back was fine this am. Front needed air, but will give it another whirl.

    They are exactly what I wanted the bike to look like!! Dropped 1.8lbs from old set. Bike is now at 28.8 with Nevegal on front which weighs 840g alone
    You used Stan's? Did you put in the rim tape? Are you using tubeless specific tires?
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  66. #66
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    The yellow transparent rim tape comes from AC that way. Nevegal front Small Block 8 on the rear. I've never used tubeless specific tires with any setup and never had an issue. I'm using homemade brew in the back and 1/2 Stans 1/2 Homemade on the front because I had about 1 "cup" left of each. (Stan's little red cup, have no idea how much it holds)
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    The yellow transparent rim tape comes from AC that way. Nevegal front Small Block 8 on the rear. I've never used tubeless specific tires with any setup and never had an issue. I'm using homemade brew in the back and 1/2 Stans 1/2 Homemade on the front because I had about 1 "cup" left of each. (Stan's little red cup, have no idea how much it holds)
    Ok. How do the valves work? It looks like the rim tape they sell on the No Tubes site has the valves built in. You said you are just using the built in AC rim tape. Rim film...

    Would I use the UST Tubeless Valve Stem or the standard valve stem?
    Last edited by Rzar; 04-14-2010 at 10:03 AM.
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  68. #68
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    I just ordered everything I will need to set these up tubeless. I called American Classic and was again impressed with their customer service. I have spoken with Clay before but this time got Cody. You need the standard no tubes valves and no extra rim tape.

    I will report back with how they setup tubeless with my Race Kings.

    I ordered:
    1 x Core Remover (AS27)
    1 x Tire Sealant Injector / Applicator (AS05)
    1 x Tire Sealant - Pint (16 fl oz) (ST01)
    2 x Standard Valve Stem (AS07)
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  69. #69
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    Ride Report

    Coming from Bontrager base wheelset from a 2008 GF X-Cal.

    Dropped a full lb off the front and .8 from the back. Could be a bit difference due to sealant.

    Nevegal on front, SB8 on the back. nothing changed from old RIP setup.

    100% certainty the bike gets to speed faster
    100% certainty I can climb easier.

    How I verify: I spend 80% of my time in the 22 front ring because I can go 16 MPH from it which is faster than I normally go anyway. But there is some overlap and I can also go 36 up front and stay from 1-3 on the back, but sometimes get hung up b/c I have to full granny to get up a hill.

    Yesterday, I went all around my normal trail in 36 and never had an issue climbing. Rotational weight really seems to matter and I'm very pleased with the purchase.

    Couldn't tell a difference in the width of the tires providing more traction from a 12 mile ride.

    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  70. #70
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    i weighed a set yesterday at the bike shop and they were 1680.i thought they were 1600

  71. #71
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    As far as the durability of AC wheels. I had a set on my 26er for 4 years and converted to tubeless with stans. At the time I weighed 240 with gear. I ride hard and they have spent a lot of time at the ski hill. They still haven't needed to be trued. I than switched to 355's w/AC hibs and have ridden them hard for 2 years (Weighing 220 with gear) with about 5 trips to the ski mountain no problems. So I really don't know where this whole weight limit thing comes into play. I don't catch air, but I ride hard. I built a custom 29er wheelset last summer: 355 rims, AC hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes, weighed 1560. Spent about $700 in parts. Still true. I highly recommend both.
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  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    I just ordered everything I will need to set these up tubeless. I called American Classic and was again impressed with their customer service. I have spoken with Clay before but this time got Cody. You need the standard no tubes valves and no extra rim tape.

    I will report back with how they setup tubeless with my Race Kings.

    I ordered:
    1 x Core Remover (AS27)
    1 x Tire Sealant Injector / Applicator (AS05)
    1 x Tire Sealant - Pint (16 fl oz) (ST01)
    2 x Standard Valve Stem (AS07)
    They set up ok? Standard prestas should work fine.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  73. #73
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    Have about 80 mi. on mine . No problems.
    I'm using the clear yellow rimstrip with standard Stans valves. Specialized Control Fasttrack LK 2.0 tires (not UST) with Stans. Had a slow leak in rear for a few days but now no problems.
    Very happy with these wheels.

    Will be interested to see if the rim with the dent (in Rzar's pic) works tubeless. I had a little ding in the rim of my 26" Crossmax SL and couldn't get it to work tubeless.
    2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...-spring2010-050.jpg

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    They set up ok? Standard prestas should work fine.

    I set them up this morning. I had a few issues, but just learning curve. Like lubing the bead with soapy water. I have Race Kings 2.2 and put 2 oz in each tire via the injector. The front setup immediately and was fine. The rear took a few inflates to get the bead to sit right and then a few inflates to seal all the little holes I had in my sidewalls. I added 1/4 extra in the back to compensate the seepage.

    They have held at about 38 PSI now for 4 hours. I have not ridden them on trail yet but I did ride around my neighborhood including some dirt lots with lots of rocks to see if I could get them to burp air. Nope, they held fine!

    The dent in the back rim did not cause an issue at all.

    Further note, I rode them yesterday at the 24 Hours in the Old Pueblo course, still tubed. I had never ridden it before and in many of the rock gardens I ended up hiting most of the rocks. No issues, rims still true.
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  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    I set them up this morning. I had a few issues, but just learning curve. Like lubing the bead with soapy water. I have Race Kings 2.2 and put 2 oz in each tire via the injector. The front setup immediately and was fine. The rear took a few inflates to get the bead to sit right and then a few inflates to seal all the little holes I had in my sidewalls. I added 1/4 extra in the back to compensate the seepage.

    They have held at about 38 PSI now for 4 hours. I have not ridden them on trail yet but I did ride around my neighborhood including some dirt lots with lots of rocks to see if I could get them to burp air. Nope, they held fine!

    The dent in the back rim did not cause an issue at all.

    Further note, I rode them yesterday at the 24 Hours in the Old Pueblo course, still tubed. I had never ridden it before and in many of the rock gardens I ended up hiting most of the rocks. No issues, rims still true.
    I usually crank all my tires up to 65-70 psi to make sure they seat ok. Did a pair of Geax Saguro's yesterday with not even one air bubble on a set of bonty rhythems. Nevegal and SB8 on my ACs has been perfect at holding air also, but did have a few initial bubbles.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  76. #76
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    It would have been a whole lot easier with an air compressor. I think I might pick up a small one. I had to pump furiously to get them to seat right.
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  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    It would have been a whole lot easier with an air compressor. I think I might pick up a small one. I had to pump furiously to get them to seat right.
    I picked up cheap C02 cartridges from Wal-Mart just for this purpse and I use my C02 inflator.
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  78. #78
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    Clarrification

    I'm trying to buy a set of these wheels at a .com site that has a good price, but I'm realizing there are a lot of subtle differences in the model years, etc.

    Can anyone verify what color the "single off color" spoke should be on a 2010 Alpha Type (white graphic) set of Tubeless AC 29 Disc wheels? I'm trying to determine if it should be white or red. Also, what color should the hub be on the 2010 Tubeless Disc alphatype sets? Thanks very much.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by elkhunter
    I'm trying to buy a set of these wheels at a .com site that has a good price, but I'm realizing there are a lot of subtle differences in the model years, etc.

    Can anyone verify what color the "single off color" spoke should be on a 2010 Alpha Type (white graphic) set of Tubeless AC 29 Disc wheels? I'm trying to determine if it should be white or red. Also, what color should the hub be on the 2010 Tubeless Disc alphatype sets? Thanks very much.
    The spoke indicating the valve should be white.


    The hubs on the 2010 should be red.


    Sounds like the site you might be buying them from sounds confusing or maybe not reliable. I got mine from bike29 for $689, Lowest price I could find for the 2010's. Very reliable, fast shipping.

    https://bike29.com/catalog/american-...set-p-155.html
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  80. #80
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    RZAR: Thanks for the pictures; that helps me verify that I am in fact getting what I want prior to ordering. Did you feel the need to do anything to the hubs prior to rinding them, ie, grease removal, etc? I've read about some of the issues with what appear to be mostly the older AC hubs vice the new 2010 hubs...

    How many miles would you say you have on your set and can you qualify your weight and riding style? I'm very interested in hearing your overall assesssment of this product.

    How can you tell if these .com sites are "authorized dealers" per the 2 year crash repair/replacement policy on AC's website?\\


    Thanks.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by elkhunter
    RZAR: Thanks for the pictures; that helps me verify that I am in fact getting what I want prior to ordering. Did you feel the need to do anything to the hubs prior to rinding them, ie, grease removal, etc? I've read about some of the issues with what appear to be mostly the older AC hubs vice the new 2010 hubs...

    How many miles would you say you have on your set and can you qualify your weight and riding style? I'm very interested in hearing your overall assesssment of this product.

    How can you tell if these .com sites are "authorized dealers" per the 2 year crash repair/replacement policy on AC's website?\\


    Thanks.
    I weight 141 lbs, w/o gear. Prob close to 148 with camelbak and such. The weight limit is listed at 235 lbs.

    I have 150 miles on them, running them tubeless. My riding style is XC on dry single track with lots of rocks. I live in the southwest. Some of the trails have some nasty rock gardens. I am not the smoothest rider in the world, so I end up hitting a lot of the rocks. I like to jump and go off small drops. Drops, 1-2 feet and jumping, getting about 2-3 feet in the air, but landing pretty smoothly. I have had no issue yet and have not felt the wheels flex at all. They are stiff in the corners and accelerate supper fast, especially w/o tubes. Well I had one issue, my first ride on them I went down hard and dinged the sidewall of my back rim. I must have hit a rock just right. It knocked it a little bit out of true. My LBS trued the wheel and I have not had any issues since, it is still true and has no hop, and I have cased the back wheel a few times. I would say they are pretty darn strong.

    The hubs where fine out of the box. There was no grease. I am not sure where that would come from since the bearings are sealed.

    I am not sure how to tell if they are authorized. I do know that Bike29 is. They are actually a LBS that happens to sell stuff online. I also think the crash replacement is an extra fee but I am not sure. If you can wait till Monday you can call AM and ask them. They are supper friendly. Make sure you get an itemized receipt. I know AM will honor that for factory rebuilds.

    Overall assessment, great wheels, light, strong, durable. Great customer service from AM. They setup tubless super easy!
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  82. #82
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    Appreciate the information share; cheers!

  83. #83
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    Good info, I just ordered a set of these.

  84. #84
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    UPDATE:

    Wheels are still holding up great. Tension and trueness is the same as out of the box. I did put a small ding in the rear rim, but it is my fault for running to low of psi in one race with maxxis Aspens. The ding has not caused any problems with the tire bead. I will leave it be and keep an eye on it. Great Wheelset!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 American Classic Tubeless Wheelset...-ding.jpg  


  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    UPDATE:

    Wheels are still holding up great. Tension and trueness is the same as out of the box. I did put a small ding in the rear rim, but it is my fault for running to low of psi in one race with maxxis Aspens. The ding has not caused any problems with the tire bead. I will leave it be and keep an eye on it. Great Wheelset!

    How low PSI? I am running about 28-30 psi. I have noticed 4 dings in the back rim now. They are not bad at all though, not even as bad as yours. The wheel seems to still be ok, holds the bead tubeless setup and has no hops.
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  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    UPDATE:

    Wheels are still holding up great. Tension and trueness is the same as out of the box. I did put a small ding in the rear rim, but it is my fault for running to low of psi in one race with maxxis Aspens. The ding has not caused any problems with the tire bead. I will leave it be and keep an eye on it. Great Wheelset!
    The good news is that AC will do a rebuild for you for the fee and shipping.

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  87. #87
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    has anyone not dinged these new rims? i have 3 dents on my front rim already and have
    never in all my yrs riding dented a rim. seems like butter in the rims. its great they will
    rebuild it, but you are without a wheel for basically 2 weeks, whereas if they would sell you a rim i could relace it in a day. not sure what their deal is with not selling a rim, but
    i am holding out to not have to ship the wheel back.

  88. #88
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    Jeez, now I'm worried. I've run them for about a month with no dings, one XC race through big rocks with no dents. But I do have a 5inch rear susp RIP that takes a bunch of the impact out. I love these things and don't want to have this kind of problem for sure.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

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    Kinda got me worried too, anybody have more input before I put these on my bike later this week? Maybe I'll keep my stock wheels just in case.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    Jeez, now I'm worried. I've run them for about a month with no dings, one XC race through big rocks with no dents. But I do have a 5inch rear susp RIP that takes a bunch of the impact out. I love these things and don't want to have this kind of problem for sure.

  90. #90
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    My ding is honestly from me running to low of PSI. I had my rear Aspen down to 25psi, which is just too low for my 205lb self and a rocky course.

    As Bruce said, AC will rebuild the wheel for a cheap price and sometimes can do the rebuild the same day or next. At least that was what I am told.

    We will see how they hold up to more mileage and rock ridden trails.

  91. #91
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    I did read a disclaimer from AM saying you have to run them at 35 PSI. I started out at 38 just to be safe and have slowly backed down a couple PSI every time I go riding. I am now at about 28-30.

    Can everyone report what PSI they are using to see if it correlates to dents? These are meant to be run tubeless and I think it would be a bit unrealistic of AM to think people are going to run them at 35 PSI.

    I am also going to call them today to get some feedback. I will report back with what they say.
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  92. #92
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    Hmm... I'd be curious if others have similar issues with 355s/crests or if the AC rims are in fact a bit softer. I've seen one of these taco'd so far this year, not sure what the cause was so no idea if it was the rider or wheel's fault.. guessing the rider.

  93. #93
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    I have bumped up the psi on my ride (RIP) lately. I was running 23ish front and back and have raised it to 27ish. Haven't noticed much difference in speed or cush, but I definitely want to avoid rim issues.
    I looked last night and didn't see any dings so far and I ride quite a bit.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  94. #94
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    Does teh AC wheelset use the Stans Crest Rim? or is it their own design?

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter
    Does teh AC wheelset use the Stans Crest Rim? or is it their own design?
    Their own design, and redesigned for this model year.
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    My wheels just arrived, they look sweet! I'll get them mounted up with my SB8's (running tubes for now) and on the trail Friday.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeatherMan
    Advertised weight is right on. Wheelset with tape and valves Installed is 1630g. Look forward to trying my first American Classic product. Shall be a good test for the durability of this wheelset as I am 208lbs. Wheelset will be put on my 2010 Hi-Fi Pro XL. Used mainly for XC trails/races.
    Did you weigh the Bontrager set you took off the Superfly100, how did they compare?

  98. #98
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    I did.....but can not recall the weight. I know it is was heavier then advertised. Add Bontrager rim strips and valves and that number kept climbing.

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    I got the wheels on and rode for 2 hrs yesterday. I like them a lot, combined with the maxxis ignitor/crossmark combo it feels really, really fast. I actually did knock the front wheel out of true while improperly bunnyhopping a log (read: ran into the log without hopping), but it should pull out easily. The wheels are really light compared to my stockers. I switched to narrower bars as well, and the bike feels super responsive.

  100. #100
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    Just picked up a set AC 29ers.... they are light! Less then my Arch with DT 240s. 1586g for the pair... no hardware included.

    Set up tubeless using Stans valve stems, but had to drill out the inner hole just a tad, as the brass was sitting on top and would not let the rubber hit the rim. Aired up using a floor pump with no fuss... 2.4 Mtn King on front and Ignitor on rear. Very stiff set of wheels, much more so than 32 spoke Arches! 24 pts of engagement. Not sure about durability, only time will tell.

  101. #101
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    Oh one other thing: I paid $550 for the set, the guy I bought them from said he could sale more for $585 shipped but couldn't do $550 again. Still it's a deal compared to MSRP... Anyone interested give me a PM and I will give you his email address.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyag1
    Just picked up a set AC 29ers.... they are light! Less then my Arch with DT 240s. 1586g for the pair... no hardware included.

    Set up tubeless using Stans valve stems, but had to drill out the inner hole just a tad, as the brass was sitting on top and would not let the rubber hit the rim. Aired up using a floor pump with no fuss... 2.4 Mtn King on front and Ignitor on rear. Very stiff set of wheels, much more so than 32 spoke Arches! 24 pts of engagement. Not sure about durability, only time will tell.

    I find it odd that people are having to drill these out. I used Stan's standard valves no problem. Also, I have called AC on 3 different occasions. I was never had to leave a message and the people I spoke to had very good technical knowledge. In fact I called them about the valves and they said to use the standard.
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  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    I find it odd that people are having to drill these out. I used Stan's standard valves no problem. Also, I have called AC on 3 different occasions. I was never had to leave a message and the people I spoke to had very good technical knowledge. In fact I called them about the valves and they said to use the standard.
    Well you have to look close, but the stans standard valves flair just a little bit next to the rubber seal. This flair hits the rim before the rubber actually contacts the rim itself. To test without looking all you have to do is try to push the valve through the hole with you thumb while tightening the nut with your finger. If the brass valve is making contact with the rim you will not be able compress the rubber seal and spin the nut with you fingers. I even pushed hard on the valve with a pair of rubber handled pliers trying to compress the rubber seal with on luck. If you don't look close then you may think the rubber seal is compressed, but it is not.

  104. #104
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    Old thread - but I have had some issues with the wheels. Not flaming them - just reporting to see if this is a common issue. I didn't buy these because of weight or anything. I just wanted a higher end wheel to replace cr29ssmaxes and my local shop had these or some $350 wheels.

    I got the wheels in late APRIL 2010. In July I had a freehub go bad. I just had the replacement go bad yesterday (October 2010).

    I have now had two free hub bodies go bad on me. Each time it was the same failure - a piece broke off from the teeth/splines which causes grinding/slippage of the freehub. This usually was a catastrophic failure while I was in a very high torque application. Climbing out of the saddle in middel ring on a steep pitch. As you can imagine, the result was a stem to the gut!

    I also dented my wheel (no surprise) within 2 weeks of owning them and have NEVER dented a rim in 10 years of rocky riding.

    I'm 210 pounds and nearly 6'2". I tend to mash and have above average technical skills which means I ride up and down rock ledges/formations, steep pitches, etc that, combined with my weight, are very hard on hubs.

    I am sending the wheels in imminently to AC for an evaluation. The local shop 918xc in Tulsa has been great with replacement freehubs, but AC thinks something might be up with something else.

    Pros - Vertically Stiffer than Mavic Cr29ssmax (I trashed two of those hubs too). Lighter than anything out there. Easy to run tubeless. I don't have an issue with the 24 tooth engagement. It works well for technical stuff and lots of ratcheting/balance riding on/around rocks.

    Cons - durability. I want something that will last. I had one colorado destination trip almost ruined because of the freehub issue. Now I keep a spare. Replacing a freehub every two months without warning is no way to live.

    I wish I didn't drop the 700-800 on these. If I could redo it, I would have gone with something much more burly. I still want higher end stuff. But these go higher end with sex appeal and lightness. I want to pay higher end prices for quality and durability.

  105. #105
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    Sorry to hear about those troubles you are experiencing. That's got to be frustrating, but it's good to hear real world experience in terms of durability of how these wheels are holding up - or not holding up - out there after one season. Hopefully AC will take care of you in a good way after they do an autopsy on your rear wheel.

    Prior incarnations of AC 29"er wheels had a rider weight limit of 235 lbs. listed in the wheelchart on the AC website. I swear that the new tubeless AC 29"er wheels began that way (235) in the wheelchart, but I don't have the original .pdf file that ever stated that. So I might be wrong about that, but I seem to remember reading that and reading posts that mentioned that when the wheels were introduced.

    However, the last two .pdf files I have downloaded from AC list the same new AC tubeless disc wheel in the 26" version and the singlespeed version with a rider weight limit of 190 lbs and the 29"er version says NA (not available) for rider weight limit. Based on the 26" weight limit for the rider being 190, I've got to assume it is the same for the 29"er version. This weight limit is consistent with the Crest rim from NoTubes which has the suggested rider weight limit of 185. And those are pretty much XC race oriented rims.

    I'm curious about what AC claims is the rider weight limit for these wheels. If you talk to them, post up what they say about weight limit. I wonder if the durability issue (at least in terms of the rims) you or other riders that are over 190 lbs. have led AC to change the wheelchart .pdf file rider weight limit to 190. Assuming, that is, the chart originally said 235 when the wheels first came out.

    Based on your experience with the Mavic hubs and the AC hubs, it sure sounds like a different rear hub is your solution for the future. It sounds like the amount of torque you are able to put out doesn't really need a light, weight weenie rear wheel. You'll take the obvious bit of a weight penalty, but certainly worth it if you are ripping through Mavic and AC XC hubs. I guess you could counter that with one of the new carbon rims if weight is a concern, but now your AC wheel price is going to seem inexpensive compared to what that would cost.

    Keep us updated on what AC says and how they handle your situation.

    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clay
    Old thread - but I have had some issues with the wheels. Not flaming them - just reporting to see if this is a common issue. I didn't buy these because of weight or anything. I just wanted a higher end wheel to replace cr29ssmaxes and my local shop had these or some $350 wheels.

    I got the wheels in late APRIL 2010. In July I had a freehub go bad. I just had the replacement go bad yesterday (October 2010).

    I have now had two free hub bodies go bad on me. Each time it was the same failure - a piece broke off from the teeth/splines which causes grinding/slippage of the freehub. This usually was a catastrophic failure while I was in a very high torque application. Climbing out of the saddle in middel ring on a steep pitch. As you can imagine, the result was a stem to the gut!

    I also dented my wheel (no surprise) within 2 weeks of owning them and have NEVER dented a rim in 10 years of rocky riding.

    I'm 210 pounds and nearly 6'2". I tend to mash and have above average technical skills which means I ride up and down rock ledges/formations, steep pitches, etc that, combined with my weight, are very hard on hubs.

    I am sending the wheels in imminently to AC for an evaluation. The local shop 918xc in Tulsa has been great with replacement freehubs, but AC thinks something might be up with something else.

    Pros - Vertically Stiffer than Mavic Cr29ssmax (I trashed two of those hubs too). Lighter than anything out there. Easy to run tubeless. I don't have an issue with the 24 tooth engagement. It works well for technical stuff and lots of ratcheting/balance riding on/around rocks.

    Cons - durability. I want something that will last. I had one colorado destination trip almost ruined because of the freehub issue. Now I keep a spare. Replacing a freehub every two months without warning is no way to live.

    I wish I didn't drop the 700-800 on these. If I could redo it, I would have gone with something much more burly. I still want higher end stuff. But these go higher end with sex appeal and lightness. I want to pay higher end prices for quality and durability.

  106. #106
    Cholla Magnent
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    I have had these wheels since May. I have not had any issues with the freehub but have several dents and dings in the rims. My first 5 or so rides the wheels went out of true every time, especially the rear wheel. I had my LBS true them each time and they have not gone out of true for a few months now. Maybe they just had to settle in or I have learned to be smoother. The dents have not been an issue. I can still run them tubeless with no problems.

    I weigh 138 lbs so weight is not an issue for me. I swear I remember seeing somewhere when I was looking into these wheels that the rider weight limit was 180 lbs. With their lower spoke count I would be hesitant to ride them at your size.

    I do not regret buying these. I have altered my riding style a bit though. I used to go off 3-4 foot drops all the time. Now I won't do anything over 1-2 feet in fear of tacoing the rims. I love their lightweight feel. They spin up super fast especially tubeless.
    Cholla Magnet

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay
    Old thread - but I have had some issues with the wheels. Not flaming them - just reporting to see if this is a common issue. I didn't buy these because of weight or anything. I just wanted a higher end wheel to replace cr29ssmaxes and my local shop had these or some $350 wheels.

    I got the wheels in late APRIL 2010. In July I had a freehub go bad. I just had the replacement go bad yesterday (October 2010).

    I have now had two free hub bodies go bad on me. Each time it was the same failure - a piece broke off from the teeth/splines which causes grinding/slippage of the freehub. This usually was a catastrophic failure while I was in a very high torque application. Climbing out of the saddle in middel ring on a steep pitch. As you can imagine, the result was a stem to the gut!

    I also dented my wheel (no surprise) within 2 weeks of owning them and have NEVER dented a rim in 10 years of rocky riding.

    I'm 210 pounds and nearly 6'2". I tend to mash and have above average technical skills which means I ride up and down rock ledges/formations, steep pitches, etc that, combined with my weight, are very hard on hubs.

    I am sending the wheels in imminently to AC for an evaluation. The local shop 918xc in Tulsa has been great with replacement freehubs, but AC thinks something might be up with something else.

    Pros - Vertically Stiffer than Mavic Cr29ssmax (I trashed two of those hubs too). Lighter than anything out there. Easy to run tubeless. I don't have an issue with the 24 tooth engagement. It works well for technical stuff and lots of ratcheting/balance riding on/around rocks.

    Cons - durability. I want something that will last. I had one colorado destination trip almost ruined because of the freehub issue. Now I keep a spare. Replacing a freehub every two months without warning is no way to live.

    I wish I didn't drop the 700-800 on these. If I could redo it, I would have gone with something much more burly. I still want higher end stuff. But these go higher end with sex appeal and lightness. I want to pay higher end prices for quality and durability.
    The freehubs breaking is a normal issue if the hub is loose. The hub does have to be checked often to make sure it is still tight. I have to check the hub every month and re adjust. I currenty have them on all 5 of my bikes with never an issue. I have had several customers with the freehubs engagement snapped and every one so far the hub was loose and AC warrantied them no questions. When I sent the last set in first question they asked was how loose was the hub.

    Not saying this is exactly what happened to yours but IMO there is not a better wheel on the market. I even did a downhill race this year with them on my RIP.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard
    The freehubs breaking is a normal issue if the hub is loose. The hub does have to be checked often to make sure it is still tight. I have to check the hub every month and re adjust. I currenty have them on all 5 of my bikes with never an issue. I have had several customers with the freehubs engagement snapped and every one so far the hub was loose and AC warrantied them no questions. When I sent the last set in first question they asked was how loose was the hub.

    Not saying this is exactly what happened to yours but IMO there is not a better wheel on the market. I even did a downhill race this year with them on my RIP.
    How do I check to see if the hub is loose? Does this mean loose from the spokes or the freehub?
    Cholla Magnet

  109. #109
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    All - When I bought the wheels, I saw the 235 pound weight limit too. Haven't checked since then.

    One of the Pros that I forgot to mention was Customer Service. The guys have been great. When I was in Colorado on the trip, I called and they answered right away. They went through the computer system and looked at orders to see what shops had made small parts or wheel purchases. Then they pointed me to those shops as a starting point to find a freehub.

    This second time they answered right away again. I told them my whole story and they chatted with me for 15 minutes. I told them that I was 210 pounds but fit and a masher. The rep mentioned that I am on the upper end of what the bike industry designs for which makes things tricky but by no means did he say that I was beyond the capability of the wheels.

    As far as the loose hub goes, I can only say that I did check and tighten the hub about three weeks ago. Since then I put about 160-180 miles of intense epic rides in Colorado on them.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=656370
    I usually notice if there is side to side play, but nothing came to mind with this last one. How often do you find yourself busting out the cone wrenches to tighten the hubs? Weekly? Every 50 miles or so? I'll do it more frequently now.

    I would hate to have to tighten hubs all the time for fear of catastrophic failure, but I will - during their useful life - if that is something that is required as a trade off for the positives of this wheel.

    The simplistic nature of the freehub and cam engagement requires a certain amount of compression. Once you get some play I can see how some extra movement can cause edges of the splines to break off. It's what they had to do to keep them light I guess.

    However, based on my frequency of desired maintenance, weight, riding style, and habit of taking 2-3 weeklong trips per year where a fried hub can ruin the trip, I will probably aim for something custom next go around.

    If you saw me and the trails I ride, I probably don't fit the demographic that AC is targeting. I know that now but didn't early on.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    How do I check to see if the hub is loose? Does this mean loose from the spokes or the freehub?
    step 14 and 15 here:

    http://www.amclassic.com/documents/h...b_Overhaul.pdf

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rzar
    How do I check to see if the hub is loose? Does this mean loose from the spokes or the freehub?
    It takes 2 19mm wrenches on the non-drive side - I check by hand every ride, usually end up adjusting 1 timer per month - I did go ahead and purchase the extra cone wrenches to have at home, work and in the car.

    If the hub gets loose the freehub body can move away from the center of the hub causing very little of it to engage and under stress shear off the freehub.

  112. #112
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    will never again buy another American Classic rear hub.
    Here's to sweat in your eye.

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