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Thread: Spot Rollik 607

  1. #301
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    Part 2


  2. #302
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    Man, that bike is fun.
    Last edited by sixstringsteve; 11-13-2018 at 05:19 PM.

  3. #303
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    Steve, thanks for all of the info. Great review again on the Mayhem. Ended up pulling the trigger on the Mayhem, talked to the guys at Spot. Super helpful. As you mention in your review, this bike is likely best for me 90% of the time. They were running some early specials for black friday and got a great price. Super stoked about getting it up and running, will shift over to the Mayhem thread with some thoughts against the HT when I can get a few runs on it.

  4. #304
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    Awesome, CONGRATS!!!!!!

    The guys at SPOT have always been nice to me, and they have great advice for selecting a bike, or for dialing in the suspension. You're going to love your Mayhem. If the suspension doesn't feel quite right, don't give up. It should be pretty good out of the gate for you, but if you need help, I'd be happy to give some pointers on getting it diled for you.

    To me, the bike feels way more alive than a hightower, and it makes me grin a lot more too.


    Hey, let's ride the chutes together in January. I plan to be in Tucson for Jan/Feb. I plan on riding tucson, and south mtn as well.

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    yep, just got my email from the SPOT team saying my backordered 607 is now going to be a 150. Now we all know what the new animation was about. My first thought was "please dont make the new colors some snot berry green or high gloss periwinkle..."

  7. #307
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    Damn iv'e had the 607 for 6 months and its already extinct! Ill be interested to hear if anybody has talked to Spot about the rational behind a new rear end already.

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by COBenG View Post
    Damn iv'e had the 607 for 6 months and its already extinct! Ill be interested to hear if anybody has talked to Spot about the rational behind a new rear end already.
    I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing it's a more permanent solution to the well publicized frame cracking issue from early this year. My understanding is the original version of the rocker link could make contact with the seat tube under full compression. A couple of hard hits with the rocker link, and bam! broken frame. They addressed this with a new rocker link and haven't heard of any issues since then. The new rear end obviously eliminates the rocker link completely and as an added bonus adds a flip chip the tweak the geo. Be interested to know if it will change the suspension feel at all?

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    Im curious if the new model feels any different too. Ill bet it's almost exactly the same feel, but who knows...

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    I'd imagine it will be very similar. It would be cool if Spot made the new rear end available (to purchase) for existing owners. I seem to recall Ibis doing that on the HD when it went from 26" wheels to 27.5.

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    I think that red rollik 150 would look great with a black upper yoke.





    The cool thing about this new yoke design is that there's zero chance of any links contacting the seat tube. And it seems to open options in case they want to run longer travel one day (not that this bike needs any more travel).

    It looks like this new yoke introduces one more pair of bearings to prevent the shock from binding. I wonder why they didn't mount the rear shock horizontally instead of vertically?

    I also wish they would flip the rear shock upside-down and mount it to the top tube (like a 5010). That way I could fit a large water bottle in the front triangle.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    I think that red rollik 150 would look great with a black upper yoke.


    The cool thing about this new yoke design is that there's zero chance of any links contacting the seat tube. And it seems to open options in case they want to run longer travel one day (not that this bike needs any more travel).

    It looks like this new yoke introduces one more pair of bearings to prevent the shock from binding. I wonder why they didn't mount the rear shock horizontally instead of vertically?

    I also wish they would flip the rear shock upside-down and mount it to the top tube (like a 5010). That way I could fit a large water bottle in the front triangle.
    I'd guess they didn't change the mount for the rear shock so they didn't need a new front triangle. Those molds are stupid expensive.

  13. #313
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    I agree. I hear molds aren't as expensive as people initially thought, but they're still a significant cost. What's surprising is that they were willing to make a new mold for the rear triangle, on their newest bike, when the old one worked just fine.

    I'm amazed that spot has been able to keep the same front triangles for their rolliks and mayhems. That's pretty smart, and I'm sure it saves some significant costs. Plus it makes it easier to stock most sizes.

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    this is pretty cool. I like the update w the flip chip etc... more important it showed they were listening to what the market wants all the while addressing the potential challenge w the 607. For a small company it makes me appreciate their nimble and thoughtful approach. I wasn't thinking about upgrading my 557 as its simply an amazing do everything bike - but this has me thinking - which can be dangerous.

  15. #315
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    Now I really really want a Rollik! Also considering the Mayhem and running it as a 27.5+....decisions, decisions....

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    Steve, are you on a small? 561mm top tube seems awfully short for a small, and you're taller than me. Just curious about the fit of the bike.

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    Yes, im on a small. It's best to look at reach numbers more than top tube length (since seat angle, slope of tt, etc. affect tt length).

    Im in between a small and a medium. The small corners on a dime and change directions super fast. Its great for technical trialsy moves. Its fun to jump around on and put it exactly where i want it. The medium, for me, is a little better for charging at high speeds. I could go either way, but i think the medium fits me a little better. If i could do it over again, i think I'd go with a medium. The medium mayhem fits me pretty well.

    I believe lower and slacker are good things (dependong on skill/style), but im not sure shorter people need more reach. I hardly ever wish a bike were longer. I know the tall guys like long bikes, and i dont blame them, but i ride long bikes poorly. 415-430 reach is my ideal. The small is on the 415 side, and the medium is 430.

    My chameleon is a 415 and it fits me like a glove. Ive never had a better fitting bike than my chameleon.

    I had a medium 2017 bronson (430mm reach) and it was too long for me. It was fun for plowing and high speeds, but it was tough to weight the front end properly for corners. I ride slightly smaller bikes a lot better than slightly longer bikes. You may be different though.

    If bikes keep getting longer and longer, like pole and the new yetis, in a couple years i wont even fit on a small.

  18. #318
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    What do you all think a 2017 Rollik 557 frame & shock is worth? Assuming it's in good shape with recent shock (Fox Factory Float) and bearing service and of course normal wear & tear from a year+ of riding. I have an opportunity to pick up a local frame for sale.

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    Good question. Id say $1200-1600.

  20. #320
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    Yeah, considering retail was $3000 and the newer 607 and now 150 sell for $2900, I was thinking half of current retail or $1450 max, $1200-$1400 better. Iíll see what I can get it for. Unfortunately will probably have to wait until after the holiday weekend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    Yes, im on a small. It's best to look at reach numbers more than top tube length (since seat angle, slope of tt, etc. affect tt length).

    Im in between a small and a medium. The small corners on a dime and change directions super fast. Its great for technical trialsy moves. Its fun to jump around on and put it exactly where i want it. The medium, for me, is a little better for charging at high speeds. I could go either way, but i think the medium fits me a little better. If i could do it over again, i think I'd go with a medium. The medium mayhem fits me pretty well.

    I believe lower and slacker are good things (dependong on skill/style), but im not sure shorter people need more reach. I hardly ever wish a bike were longer. I know the tall guys like long bikes, and i dont blame them, but i ride long bikes poorly. 415-430 reach is my ideal. The small is on the 415 side, and the medium is 430.

    My chameleon is a 415 and it fits me like a glove. Ive never had a better fitting bike than my chameleon.

    I had a medium 2017 bronson (430mm reach) and it was too long for me. It was fun for plowing and high speeds, but it was tough to weight the front end properly for corners. I ride slightly smaller bikes a lot better than slightly longer bikes. You may be different though.

    If bikes keep getting longer and longer, like pole and the new yetis, in a couple years i wont even fit on a small.
    Interesting post. My Surly is 402. The Spot and Santa Cruz are longer. In real life, I can't tell the difference. I wonder if they took it out of the stem? What do your Spot and Santa Cruz have? I think my KM has a 70mm stem.

  22. #322
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    Different stem lengths will definitely change the feel of abike. That being said, numbers aren't everything. I've ridden 2 bikes from different companies with almost ideantical geo numbers, but they felt nothing like each other.

    My santa cruz had a 50mm stem, then I switched to a 32mm. The 32mm helped the reach, but it made the steering awkward.

    My rollik has a 50mm stem.

    I can ride a small or medium just fine. The small is better at weaving through tight slaloms and the medium is better for bumbing super steep stuff.

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    Hi. First post. This thread was my introduction to Spot, and I now have medium 150 on order. I am 5'8.5" with shoes, 31" inseam, 140lbs. The spot guys were great answering my questions. They also agreed to install 2.6" tires on my 150, because I was disappointed they went back to 2.35 on the 150. It was steve who sold me though. I really like the new SC 5010, but thought I would want more travel for my travels. the 5010 would work well around home in Indiana, but I plan to travel to the mountains to ride a few times a year. This is going to be an awfully nice bike for my 1st ever mountain bike, but wanted something I can keep for a long time and won't feel like I need to upgrade soon, and just want 1 bike. Steve describing this bike as a 5010 with more travel was just what I wanted to hear. Looking forward to hitting the trail. Thank you steve and everyone else for all of the info.

  24. #324
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    Congrats on the new bike! I'm glad my reviews helped. It definitely feels like a 5010 with more travel (to me). You got a pro level bike as your first bike, congrats! It'll make a huge difference for your riding level. Now I recommend buying a few of the online skills courses from ryan leech connection. They're the best money you can spend on anything riding related (except maybe a helmet...) Use coupon code "dustybetty" for $19 off.

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    Congrats on the new bike! I'm glad my reviews helped. It definitely feels like a 5010 with more travel (to me). You got a pro level bike as your first bike, congrats! It'll make a huge difference for your riding level. Now I recommend buying a few of the online skills courses from ryan leech connection. They're the best money you can spend on anything riding related (except maybe a helmet...) Use coupon code "dustybetty" for $19 off.
    Thanks, I'll check that out. I subscribed to the Dusty Betty channel. I wish I could get my wife to enjoy some of these activities. I ride dirt bikes and street motorcycles, and have been trying to get my wife on one for years. Hoping mountain biking might be something she will try. thanks again.

  26. #326
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    Good luck. We dont have plans to be in Indiana for 2019, but if you're near us at all that yearx my wige is always organizing ladies rides for first time riders. In a male dominated aport like biking, ladies tend to do really well in groups with other ladies.

    Heres a shameless plug for a really great video my wife made about getting your significant other (or anyone really) hooked on mountain biking.


  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    I think that red rollik 150 would look great with a black upper yoke.





    The cool thing about this new yoke design is that there's zero chance of any links contacting the seat tube. And it seems to open options in case they want to run longer travel one day (not that this bike needs any more travel).

    It looks like this new yoke introduces one more pair of bearings to prevent the shock from binding. I wonder why they didn't mount the rear shock horizontally instead of vertically?

    I also wish they would flip the rear shock upside-down and mount it to the top tube (like a 5010). That way I could fit a large water bottle in the front triangle.
    Damn that's a sexy new link. That's some tight integration and gives it some very clean lines. Looks like it can finally put crack-gate to rest also.

    Speaking of longer travel... Anyone ride the 557 and the 607 (now 150)? I am running a 557 with a 160 mm Lyrik and I don't think I'm missing much, but I haven't ridden the 607 so couldn't say. Wondering what the big differences are besides the marketing. The one thing I'm thinking of doing is putting a piggyback shock on it to open up the performance even more. I think I can fit one on my size large and I've seen pics of a 557 with one. I put a DVO Topaz on the back end of my Transition Smuggler and even with the short travel of that bike it was a HUGE difference.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  28. #328
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    140mm vs 150mm is noticeable, but my buddy has a 557 and he loves it. I think it's more than marketing, but just because a "newer" model comes out doesn't make the old one suck. I'd love to trey a 557 just to get a baseline how it compares to a 607/150. (I'm hoping to try a 150 soon too).

  29. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    140mm vs 150mm is noticeable, but my buddy has a 557 and he loves it. I think it's more than marketing, but just because a "newer" model comes out doesn't make the old one suck. I'd love to trey a 557 just to get a baseline how it compares to a 607/150. (I'm hoping to try a 150 soon too).
    Yeah but well, I put a 160 fork on it so some geo numbers should be similar. Plus after lugging long travel bikes all over the front range for years, I'm starting to really like that companies are putting out aggressive bikes with shorter travel. My Smuggler only has 115 mm in the back and it absolutely rips. I imagine the 607 has to be a bit more plush in the back but with the Living Link i would guess they'd ride pretty similar. I should really just go over to Golden and test ride the 150 in the spring ha since I'm in Denver.

  30. #330
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    Just a heads up...I ordered the new Rollik during the black friday sale and was just informed the new frames won't arrive until January. Not excited about waiting but at least I still have my old bike to ride...

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    congrats. the new rollik 150 looks slick.

  32. #332
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    Thanks Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by azrider22 View Post
    Just a heads up...I ordered the new Rollik during the black friday sale and was just informed the new frames won't arrive until January. Not excited about waiting but at least I still have my old bike to ride...
    Which size did you order? If you donít mind me asking

  34. #334
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    Not at all. I ordered a medium.

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    Quote Originally Posted by azrider22 View Post
    Not at all. I ordered a medium.
    That means mine probably wonít ship until then. I was hoping for December. Bummer.

  36. #336
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    I will state this:

    I have a 557. Have run DPX2 "off the shelf) w the med compression from Fox, but recently picked up a DPX2 that was custom tuned for the Ripmo - it has a light compression tune. It works better and simply brilliant on this suspension.

    Fanatick has been selling these Ripmo shocks for a really good price. I suspect takeoffs or extras for custom builds. Bottom line - if you can find or grab one - its really the winner for me and will open that 557 up with no discernible downsides i can find.

  37. #337
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    Very interesting!

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    An earlier post begs the question:

    1. How does a piggy-back shock make a huge difference for the rear suspension?

    2. Why does the Spot Rollik 150 come with a piggy-back shock, but the Spot Mayhem does not?

  39. #339
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    There are some good articles online that address this question better than I could in a post here.

    Short answer: more oil volume and a separate reservoir keeps the oil cooler longer. On super rough, super long downhills, shocks heat up and their performance cgabges when they heat up. A piggyback cools the oil better, at the expense of weight.

    While the mayhem can be ordered with a piggyback, it doesn't usually have one. This is fine for the intended use of the mayhem. The mayhem is an all-rounder. You're not going to be racing dh or Enduro on it, and the chances of heating that shock to the point that it behaves differently is extremely unlikely for the riding it was designed for. If you're running dh laps at whistler over and over, or doing heli drops, it's probably the wrong bike anyway, but at that point you'll start heating the shock.

    The rollik is designed for more down than up (in general) and can handle bigger hits. It would definitely be fine in an Enduro race. Since the rollik is burlier, slacker, and built to hit bigger stuff, it makes sense to spec it with a piggyback.

  40. #340
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    Thanks. Good answer.

    So the bottom line is the piggy back shock is only necessary and will only make a difference if the performance of your non-piggy back shock is corrupted due to heat build up. Got it.

  41. #341
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    Yes. And "corrupted" is a temporary thing. It just means your shock is hot RIGHT NOW. Once it cools it'll go back to normal. In other words, it's not permanently "corrupted".

    The same thing happens with brakes.

    It takes an extremely heavy or aggressive rider on extremely aggressive terrain for a long period of time to affect this. If that's your default riding situation, the rollik is the better choice. 98% of riders will never overheat a non-piggyback shock on a regular ride.

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockohaulic View Post
    Thanks. Good answer.

    So the bottom line is the piggy back shock is only necessary and will only make a difference if the performance of your non-piggy back shock is corrupted due to heat build up. Got it.
    Unless you get something like a DVO Topaz. It allows you to change the air pressure of the piggyback chamber so you can raise or lower the entire spring curve rather than just changing the progressiveness of the end of the stroke with shock spacers. It's pretty cool actually. It was a world of difference on my Smuggler (even with only 115mm rear travel) and made it a much better pedaling and handling bike. With the Rollik's pedaling platform I imagine you could lower the spring curve and eke out more small bump compliance.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

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    Quote Originally Posted by rmanalan View Post
    I installed the 1.02 yesterday and ran 95% today ~30% sag. Primo . Rode at Soquel Demo all day... Lots of climbing, fast flow trails and decent sized drops and never bottomed out. Came about 10mm close, but never did.
    Im currently attempting to install the 1.02 in my DPX2 and cant seem to figure out how to get the spacer to clip in as it is not flat on the back side. Any help would be appreciated. TIA

  44. #344
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    there are some good youtube videos on the topic. The flat side goes toward the front of the bike.

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    I will state this:

    I have a 557. Have run DPX2 "off the shelf) w the med compression from Fox, but recently picked up a DPX2 that was custom tuned for the Ripmo - it has a light compression tune. It works better and simply brilliant on this suspension.

    Fanatick has been selling these Ripmo shocks for a really good price. I suspect takeoffs or extras for custom builds. Bottom line - if you can find or grab one - its really the winner for me and will open that 557 up with no discernible downsides i can find.
    They must be all sold out. Didn't see any on their web page. Also, the 557's 210 x 55 seems like a hard shock size to find right now.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  46. #346
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    Spot Rollik 607

    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    there are some good youtube videos on the topic. The flat side goes toward the front of the bike.
    Thank you.
    Last edited by M320; 1 Week Ago at 06:57 PM.

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
    there are some good youtube videos on the topic. The flat side goes toward the front of the bike.
    Update : for anyone else installing the 1.02 spacer in the DPX2. The flat side faces to the back of the bike (like the one you take out) and the ďbump outĒ part of the spacer has to be positioned towards the front of the bike lined up in a specific spot on the bottom part of the air can in order to snap in.

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    I'm sure there is a better forum for this but I can't find one for the Fox 36, and I'm wondering if I am setting up my fork correctly. I weigh 160 dry weight and Fox recommends at least 74 PSI, but I find it feels pretty harsh, so I run it with 55 PSI to get it suppple enough, and rarely can bottom it out. I have the grip 1 damper so no hsc or lsc. I'm not super sensitive to the feel of different suspension settings, so I guess it feels ok, but am curious if I would benefit from the luftkappa airshaft or possibly one day upgrading to grip2 damper. Anybody else find they run much lower pressure than Fox recommends?

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by COBenG View Post
    I'm sure there is a better forum for this but I can't find one for the Fox 36, and I'm wondering if I am setting up my fork correctly. I weigh 160 dry weight and Fox recommends at least 74 PSI, but I find it feels pretty harsh, so I run it with 55 PSI to get it suppple enough, and rarely can bottom it out. I have the grip 1 damper so no hsc or lsc. I'm not super sensitive to the feel of different suspension settings, so I guess it feels ok, but am curious if I would benefit from the luftkappa airshaft or possibly one day upgrading to grip2 damper. Anybody else find they run much lower pressure than Fox recommends?
    You'll get better help here:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by COBenG View Post
    I'm sure there is a better forum for this but I can't find one for the Fox 36, and I'm wondering if I am setting up my fork correctly. I weigh 160 dry weight and Fox recommends at least 74 PSI, but I find it feels pretty harsh, so I run it with 55 PSI to get it suppple enough, and rarely can bottom it out. I have the grip 1 damper so no hsc or lsc. I'm not super sensitive to the feel of different suspension settings, so I guess it feels ok, but am curious if I would benefit from the luftkappa airshaft or possibly one day upgrading to grip2 damper. Anybody else find they run much lower pressure than Fox recommends?
    Had the same issue. Put a Luftkappe on it and it was like a new fork. Highly recommend.

  51. #351
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    You may have too many volume tokens inside. You should be able to get that fork feeling great.

  52. #352
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    My wife's latest video has a lot of rollik footage. I ended up riding about 70 miles in 3 days on the rollik, with over 8k of elevation. I would have been dead tired on a less efficient bike.



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