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  1. #1
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    Ritchey Timberwolf Build

    I just bought a Ritchey Timberwolf medium frame I think it's a 2018.
    I like steel hardtails and got a good deal on the frame. It's probably going to be a slow process since it's my first built so I want to research every component.
    I'm surprised how much more it's going to cost than my other bike. It's a Kon Cinder Cone and I got it for 1000 dollars. looking like this build is going to cost at least 2500. IRitchey Timberwolf Build-frame-b.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-frame-c.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-frame-d.jpgt will be worth it.

  2. #2
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    Near the rear axle it says Scott IDS SL. Would it be good to use a 148 mm boost hub or will I have to go with a 142 mm?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    Near the rear axle it says Scott IDS SL. Would it be good to use a 148 mm boost hub or will I have to go with a 142 mm?
    The IDS SL rear end cannot be widened afaik so its 142 or bust. Boost or 148 is more important for 29er wheels, since it takes 148mm width to equal the stiffness of a 27.5 wheel at 142mm.

    Now the big question, what are you going to run Sram or Shimano?

  4. #4
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    Shop for closeouts. You can find killer deals on DT Swiss spline 142 wheels right now at sites like chain reaction. Then find a nice 120-140 fork on closeout.

  5. #5
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    Awsome will do. I appreciate all the advice. What will I need as far as tools go for everything?

  6. #6
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    I know a lot of good things about Sram but that's more for derailleurs. So 142 mm wheels. I was wondering about rim width. I would like to run 2.4" tires with 2.6 as an option is the frame would take them. I know it's only rated up to 2.4".
    Some of the wheels have Sram XD as an option. What do you think?

  7. #7
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    Something like this would work well. https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Doctor-E...tool+kit&psc=1

    If you spent a little more you could buy nice tools for the BB, crankset, and chain individually and get a nice multi tool that you can use for wrenching at home or on the trail.

  8. #8
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    I have decided to get this toolkit. It looks like a good deal.
    FOUNDATION 748 BIKE TOOL KIT

    Here is my next question.
    I see that the frame's geometry is optimized for a 140 mm fork.
    I was looking at this fork: ROCKSHOX PIKE RCT3 27.5" BOOST FORK 2017
    It comes in 120mm and 160mm but it is dual position. It claims you can adjust the
    length of the fork.
    Does anyone have an opinion on this technology? Or could explain to me If getting a
    160mm fork would be a good idea or not?

  9. #9
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    It seems most of the good closeouts are on ebay right now, the big stores have dumped them for next seasons products. That wheelset with that fork would be a killer starting point for your build. There are a ton of other good deals out there as well but that would be a great and cheap way to get into a killer bike.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2017-Ro...0AAOSwyuNZ1aqo

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-27-5-DT...IAAOSwmrpbnoB0

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-27-5-DT...MAAOSwWIhbnoJz

  10. #10
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    I just ordered the following fork
    Rock Shox Revelation RC DebonAir A1 27.5"+ Fork
    I think it will work well.

    what parts will I need to connect it to the frame?
    Last edited by Rodg; 09-24-2018 at 05:04 PM.

  11. #11
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    I would cancel that order if you can.

  12. #12
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    27.5+ is like 29 fork.

  13. #13
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    I gave you links to a 4500 bike build on closeout.

  14. #14
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    Most online bike shops can help you with purchases too. If you tell them a reasonable budget they can pick out the stuff to stick in your cart. Wheels and forks cost the most and weigh the most so you normally don't want to skimp on them. Maybe try calling Jenson tomorrow.

  15. #15
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    You may be able to shim your fork for 27.5 or run a 26" wheel to get the right geometry. It will be like having a 150mm fork on the bike.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for the advice I'll look int canceling the order this is what I ordered and I was a little confused about the geometry of the fork

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...36&category=94

  17. #17
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    I'm looking at the Rockshox Pike from ebay in the link you sent me. How do you think That would compare to the 2018 RockShox Sektor RL Fork 27.5"?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I'm looking at the Rockshox Pike from ebay in the link you sent me. How do you think That would compare to the 2018 RockShox Sektor RL Fork 27.5"?
    It will be better all around - stiffer 35mm vs 32mm stanchions, charger damper vs motion control and most likely lighter.

  19. #19
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    I did some digging and I think I just got lucky I believe it's actually just a 27.5"
    Check out the link:
    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...36&category=94

    The MPN is: 00.4019.655.004
    It is listed as the regular 27.5" on the following site
    Bikeman Rockshox Revelation RC Fork: 27.5" Boost 15x110mm Spacing, 140mm Travel, DebonAir, Motion Control, Crown Lockout, 46mm Offset, A1

    If it's wrong I'll return it.

  20. #20
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    The Pike and Revelation are the same 35mm chassis but the Pike has the better damper. It's the only difference between them if they are same model year.

    I would get the fork @party_wagon linked hands down.

  21. #21
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    I'll look into it.
    What do you make of this?
    https://www.merlincycles.com/ritchey...17-110816.html

    How is that price possible on this bike? It's 57% off

  22. #22
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    With the 15% off coupon on the top of the site this is a really good deal. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...5&category=701
    Call them and ask them if you can apply the coupon and have them set it at 140mm travel before shipping.
    Same for this fork.
    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...8&category=701

    Either of the above forks is what I would go with from their website and you would have a big store backing your warranty and ect. Both of those forks are top of the line. I would call them up and ask for help picking out closeout or really good bang for your buck parts for a ritchey timberwolf build. With the 15% off coupon their prices should be pretty competitive if you want to use them.
    Pike, Fox factory 34, or manitou mattoc pro for the fork. Everything else you can save on and be ok. Universal cycles should have someone that can help you pick out most of the stuff for your bike. SLX brakes and a decent wheel set would be the only thing I would consider spending a little extra on besides the fork.

  23. #23
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    Will do thank you!

  24. #24
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    DEFINITELY do not make the mistake of getting a 27.5+ or boost 27.5 fork. I made that mistake on a 27.5 bike I built with a Fox 34 27.5 boost. The axle to crown length will be almost 2" too long and make the bike handle like crap.

    Also, you can normally find wheelsets in boost or standard width IE 110/148 or 100/142. If you have a boost fork and a non-boost rear you have to build wheels or buy individual wheels. If you match boost or non-boost front and rear dimensions you can simply buy a set of pre-built wheels which will save you a ton of money. In your case buy a 100x15 axle fork so you can match it up with your non-boost rear axle size.

  25. #25
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    Looks like I'll have to buy the wheels individually. That should not be a problem. I want to make sure I get the front and rear hubs right.
    I'll send the fork back if it's a 27.5+ I've already emailed sales about this. So I hope its right.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    Looks like I'll have to buy the wheels individually. That should not be a problem. I want to make sure I get the front and rear hubs right.
    I'll send the fork back if it's a 27.5+ I've already emailed sales about this. So I hope its right.
    Call them directly and tell them your problem. Shipping is expensive. Tell them you want that mattoc shimmed to 140 or the 140 pike. The mattoc is non boost and would be perfect on that bike setup at 140mm. The mattoc states it comes with shims to drop it to 140mm. Hagle some on the price as well since they are having a big sell and the 2018 ones are now cheaper than the 2016 ones.

  27. #27
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    Would non boost be better for this bike?
    At this point I'm just going to wait for the fork and see what it actually is. I'll have a local bike shop install it.
    I need to save up more money to make any further purchases. I have spent 3 months looking for a good deal on a bike on craigslist and never found anything. So I can spend 3 months on this build. Got to get back to work tomorrow. Will give update in a couple weeks.
    I'm wanting to go with a 9 speed. Anyone have any thoughts on that? they are not very popular but I fell like it's all I need and will be a little less weight.

  28. #28
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    Non boost would make the front and rear hubs match which will make it easier to find a set of wheels for your bike.

  29. #29
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    I can order the wheels individually. I called my bike shop about possibly shimming the fork. They said no problem only costs about 10 dollars. So here is my next question.

    Say I wanted to run a 2.6" front tire and 2.4" rear tire. Could I have the forked shimmed to compensate for the extra length of the tire? Would that make any sense for getting more traction?

  30. #30
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    I would just set it up 27.5. Something like a 2.3 nobby nic and a hansdampf or a dhr2 and a dhf will give you a ton of traction. When you get wider tires you lose some of your steering precision. I would just setup your fork for 27.5 140mm and ride it. A 9 speed drivetrain will be fine with some slx brakes and a cheap but reputable alloy cockpit.

  31. #31
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    Cool. I like the nibble feel of the 27.5 steel hardtails. I weight 135 lbs. That makes since about the wheel width. I'm using 2.3 right now and they seem fine. What would you recommend for rim width? I was looking at 25-30 mm

  32. #32
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    25-30 should be perfect. I would just get whatever you can get your hands off with reliable hubs in your price range.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I'm wanting to go with a 9 speed. Anyone have any thoughts on that? they are not very popular but I fell like it's all I need and will be a little less weight.
    Don't cheap out or worry about weight on your drivetrain. If you're going 1x9 then you won't have a very good gear range for climbing and just don't bother with a 2x or 3x drivetrain. 10 and 11 speed is very cheap now and I would recommend getting something like an SLX 11 speed setup or NX Sram 11 speed. Cheap and excellent quality.

    On tires, just run the same size front and rear. Chances are good you will change/upgrade the tires at some point so just stick to known good tire combos and once you have an idea of how and why you want to change the bikes handling then change tires or fork settings at that time. During the time you are building the bike you will not have any idea how it handles with a particular setup so just stick closely to setups that are known to work well and once the bike is done and you have some time on it, that is the time to fine tune and make changes.

    Sounds like this is your first time building a bike. There are a couple things you need to know. 1. It will cost you more than you think. 2. Don't cheap out. At the end of the day if you build a cheap bike that you have a fair bit of money into. The difference between a $2000 build and a $2500 build is only $500 but it's a LOT in terms of the quality of parts on the build. If you go with cheap 9 speed drivetrain and crappy mechanical brakes and stuff you may save a few hundred dollars but you will also sacrifice a lot of the overall quality of the build. On every build I've ever done I always wished I had spend a couple hundred dollars more up front instead of riding the bike for a few months then replacing half the parts because they sucked because I was trying to save a few bucks on the build.

  34. #34
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    Concur do not go 1x9, it makes no sense. It's like building a Porsche but instead of using the flat six you swap for the vw flat four, scratches head... As mentioned above, the SLX or NX 1x11 is cheap and work well.

  35. #35
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    Alright so would you say 10 or 11 speed?

  36. #36
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    I was looking at nice sram 9 speed like the X9. I was wanting to save some weight. I have a 1x11 and can't imagine using the lowest gear. But everyone seems to believe in the 1x11. I'll try and find a good deal on a light weight 1x11. But I'm still considering a 1x9 11-34 or 36. 11 speed just seems like too many gears. I was wondering about how taking bigger steps in a 1x9 would be

  37. #37
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    If you already have x9 just use it.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I was looking at nice sram 9 speed like the X9. I was wanting to save some weight. I have a 1x11 and can't imagine using the lowest gear. But everyone seems to believe in the 1x11. I'll try and find a good deal on a light weight 1x11. But I'm still considering a 1x9 11-34 or 36. 11 speed just seems like too many gears. I was wondering about how taking bigger steps in a 1x9 would be
    I just priced out a 1x11 Shimano drivetrain using amazon and chainreaction. It was $420 for XT cranks, Wolftooth chainring, XT RD, XTR shifter, XT cassette, Saint BB and Sram chain. You could go cheaper on the chainring, BB and shifter by using chainreaction and spend about $330 for a full XT groupset and a BB.

  39. #39
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    He's better off buying a full groupset instead of going piece meal. At CRC SLX is 450 and XT is 500. The XT groupset is a pretty great deal with the icetech rotors, and 32t ring with 11-42 cassette.

    It's probably OP's first order so sign up for their ads and get a 10 off coupon. There's also the revolving 20 off first order coupon found at many coupon sites.

  40. #40
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    Your kona may be worth $300 used. Just take all the parts off of it and swap them over to your frame. Then drop some decent money on a really nice fork like the manitou mattoc pro, slx brakes, and a nice wheelset. That will be the cheapest way to get the best bike possible. I doubt the cinder cone has thru axles but if it does you can use those wheels too.
    Last edited by party_wagon; 09-26-2018 at 08:38 AM.

  41. #41
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    Seems like you can go cheaper than $500 for XT. Hell, you can get a whole GX eagle group for $500. I think my XT group cost around $450 including brakes and GX cassette (which is more $ than an XT cassette). You should be able to nail down SLX with brakes and crank for $400 and XT for around $450. Just gotta e-bay the stuff.

    Also, you're not saving a ton of weight going with 9 speed over 11. You're building a steel bike, don't be a weight weenie. You would also be surprised using 11 speed. You may not find a need for the low gears now but you may one day when you are totally gassed or riding some steeper terrain. Even if you don't ever find a need for the low gears you can use a larger chainring to simply go faster and raise your overall gearing.

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    I'm not sure what the big emphasis is on XT and ect. when he didn't even get a top of the line fork after being told to do so by 5 different people. I'd rather have good 9 or 10 speed and a mattoc pro or pike than a mid level fork and eagle. 11-34 is plenty to pedal out at 2X mph and make all of your local climbs. I'd rather have a bike that performs where it matters than one that can pedal out at 40mph on a long gravel descent.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by party_wagon View Post
    I'm not sure what the big emphasis is on XT and ect.
    Because its fun to spend other people's money SLX is good, but XT and XTR has some features that make it even better. Multi-release is the one that makes it all worth it. You can upshift two gears with one push of the shift lever.

    It is a good suggestion to just run what he has on the Kona for now while getting the best fork and good wheels he can afford.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUGlife View Post
    Seems like you can go cheaper than $500 for XT. Hell, you can get a whole GX eagle group for $500. I think my XT group cost around $450 including brakes and GX cassette (which is more $ than an XT cassette). You should be able to nail down SLX with brakes and crank for $400 and XT for around $450. Just gotta e-bay the stuff.

    Also, you're not saving a ton of weight going with 9 speed over 11. You're building a steel bike, don't be a weight weenie. You would also be surprised using 11 speed. You may not find a need for the low gears now but you may one day when you are totally gassed or riding some steeper terrain. Even if you don't ever find a need for the low gears you can use a larger chainring to simply go faster and raise your overall gearing.
    9 speed cassettes XT cassettes and chains are $35 cheaper and you save about a pound going X9 9 speed or XT 9 speed instead of slx 11 speed.

  45. #45
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    I think one issue is that I weigh 135 lbs. So I like the higher gears. I tend to pedal out of the seat when climbing. I'm looking at this groupset Shimano Zee
    Shimano Zee 1x10sp Gear Kit Bundle | Chain Reaction Cycles

    It's 10 speed which is much more common than 9 speed and a little lighter than 11 speed. I'm looking at trying the 36 t chainring on an 11-36 T cassette. I think that will solve the issue of looking for a wider range but higher gear ratio.

  46. #46
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    I'm building this to have a second bike for friends.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I'm building this to have a second bike for friends.
    Check your lbs for cheap parts that other customers got rid of. You may be able to find something in there like seatpost, handlebars, stem, and crankset. You can get 10 speed XT on chain reaction for $170 right now. The number one priority of your budget should be a top of the line fork.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I'm building this to have a second bike for friends.
    That's a pretty spendy on the frame for a loaner frame then!

  49. #49
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    Well my kona is going to be the loaner after this inner is built.

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    I got the Rockshox Revolution in today. Pictures will be posted. The spring feels good and it seems plenty stiff. 2 things I have issues with are weight as it feels a little heavy, could be due to boost? and I was under the impression that was adjustable or dual travel. Like you could adjust the travel from 120mm to 150mm by turning a knob. I got that impression from this article.
    Tested: Ritchey Timberwolf « Mountain Flyer Magazine

    The bike is advertised as being optimized for 140 mm travel, via the stock RockShox Revelation with 120 mm to 150 mm travel. Once I figured out how much the climbing improved with the fork in 120 mm travel mode, I was constantly switching the fork from low to high travel mode and back as I rode. A quick reach to the fork crown and twist of the dial was all it took to change the travel,
    Read more at Tested: Ritchey Timberwolf « Mountain Flyer Magazine

    I think the fork will work out. I'll discuss getting it turned and possible using the spacers when I tack it to the bike shop to be shimmed and installed.
    I need to get a head set next.
    Won't be spending anymore for a couple weeks.

  51. #51
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    Rockshox Revolution

    Here are some picturesRitchey Timberwolf Build-fork-frame-.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-fork-d.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-fork-b.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-fork-c.jpgRitchey Timberwolf Build-kona-cc.jpg

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    I'm looking at getting a Cane Creek Headset. I'm not for sure which one I need though. Would this one work?
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek...apered-Headset

    This is the handlebar I'm looking at
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Deity-Skyl...Rise-Handlebar

    As far as stems go what would be recommended? 35,50,60,65 mm?

    Would spacers be recommended as well?

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodg View Post
    I'm looking at getting a Cane Creek Headset. I'm not for sure which one I need though. Would this one work?
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek...apered-Headset

    This is the handlebar I'm looking at
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Deity-Skyl...Rise-Handlebar

    As far as stems go what would be recommended? 35,50,60,65 mm?

    Would spacers be recommended as well?
    Look at cane creek's website regarding fitments.

    As for stem length, buy the length that puts the bars where you need them.

    Both will require measuring some things. The stem might require some trial and error with some fit stems at a shop or with some cheapies before you settle on your preferred length.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  54. #54
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    Ive been building a timberwolf for a few months now, I have a Cane Creek 40 headset in it IS42/28.6 upper, IS52/40 lower is the size you need. Im almost sure the part # is HD2422. Great Headset !!!

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    Good to know. Mine is cane creek as well. I'm looking at buying a house anytime now so I haven't moved forward with the build because I'm saving money. I'm wanting to have a wheelset built for it using onyx hubs. Looking forward to finishing. I would like to see a picture of yours. What fork did you use?

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