Rear wheel/rim upgrade? 2019 Salsa Timberjack- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel/rim upgrade? 2019 Salsa Timberjack

    Iím new to the forum and getting back into MTB after ~ a 15 year layoff. 46 now, but A few months ago a purchased a 2019 Salsa Timberjack as a multipurpose bike (weekend single track riding for fitness, hunting, bike packing).

    Last time out I had a scary close call. I was riding an Unfamiliar trail that forked. Right crossed a nice new bridge over a big wash, left dropped down into the same wash and back up the other side. Left looked like more fun, but what I didnít know was that it was no longer maintained since the bridge had been built. I dropped in and stayed off the brakes to keep my speed and momentum but About halfway down I could see that the very bottom had washed out completely. There was about a 4-5í gap at the bottom, with very steep eroded sides. There was no way I could stop in time so I did my best to make the jump. Iím not a technical rider. Iíd like to learn but itís not a skill set I have today, and this probably isnít the bike for that anyway. Being new to the bike I also forgot to use the dropped seatpost (). I hit the gap at full speed and did my best to clear the gap. Somehow I managed to get the front wheel across (I remember thinking ďholy shit that worked!) which prevented this from being a terrible wreck; but my rear wheel came up short and slammed hard into the bank. I somehow managed to keep the bike upright without a face plant. Fair amount of damage to the bike but thankfully none to my body!!

    I bent the mounting rails on the stock saddle, and bent the rear rim.

    I upgraded the saddle but the 27.5Ē rear rim is a special order for my bike shop. I left the entire rear wheel assembly at the shop and they are going to look into best options for me; but I wanted to pose the question to the experts here.

    Should I just have them replace the stock rim from Salsa and use the stock rear tire; or should I go ahead and upgrade one - or both - of them now?

    Appreciate any help or advice on what you would do, on how to make the right decision, and on specific parts to consider (and why).








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  2. #2
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    Just realized this probably should have been posted in the ď27.5+ Plus bikesĒ Category. Sorry! Newb here! Moderators feel free to move.


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  3. #3
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    Are those Sun Ringle Durocs? I'd be surprised if that bike actually came with a quality wheel like the Durocs. Replace them with same if so. Either way, looks like they did an admirable thing taking one for the team, absorbing all that energy in a non-catastrophic way. Could've gone much worse, as you seem to have implied that you were at the mercy of physics, on top of being so unlucky that the impact was right at the valve hole (normally the weakest part of the rim to catastrophic failure).

    $100 is about what I'd expect a quality aluminum rim cost. An entire new wheel probably would start at $300, or maybe a little less if you were shopping random close-out deals, if you didn't care for quality and just wanted something that rolled for at least a short while. I recall reading some recent article where DT E1900s were praised as not really feeling much different from a flagship quality level from DT, which was high praise for the budget model, where the flagship got high praise for everything but price.

    Someone with one of them Rim Rench tools would probably be trying to straight that out. Your picture is like an advertisement to sell more Durocs.
    "The challenge is not in developing new ideas, but in escaping old ideas."

  4. #4
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    Congrats on having the very best sort of crash. You know, the ones with no bodily injury, A halfway decent story was had/experienced, and most of the damage was to things youíd actually want to upgrade .

    Good quality aluminum rims tend to run ~$80-150ish. WTB makes the KOM tough in plus sizes, and dt Swiss is never a bad option. The spank 395ís also seem like a good rim, just to give you a few models to check out.

    Depending on if you will be rebuilding the wheel with the new rim, or if youíre going to use a local/online shop... it may not be a bad time for an upgrade of the hub as well. One of my local shops charges $100 to re-lace a wheel. So a new complete custom wheel with new rim/hub can be had for $100-200 more, depending on which components you go with.

    Colorado cyclist has a build calculator/price sheet for rear wheel only builds, and can give you a decent idea of what pricing to expect. And of course there are lots of reputable builders online, but most will quote you a price for the front and rear wheels together, sold as a set. But if you want just a single wheel just email them and theyíll give you a quote.

  5. #5
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    Damnnn, you lucked out coming out of that with no injuries. Someone should have roped off that part of the trail so other unfortunate riders don't kill themselves.

    What hubs are they? If they are generic, I'd just buy a brand new rear wheel. If it's a quality hub, figure out if it is worth having a new rim laced up with it or if cheaper to buy a whole wheel do so and flip the hub on PinkBike etc.

    Damn, you don't ride light. That's a lot of baggage on your whip.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    Are those Sun Ringle Durocs? I'd be surprised if that bike actually came with a quality wheel like the Durocs. Replace them with same if so. Either way, looks like they did an admirable thing taking one for the team, absorbing all that energy in a non-catastrophic way. Could've gone much worse, as you seem to have implied that you were at the mercy of physics, on top of being so unlucky that the impact was right at the valve hole (normally the weakest part of the rim to catastrophic failure).

    $100 is about what I'd expect a quality aluminum rim cost. An entire new wheel probably would start at $300, or maybe a little less if you were shopping random close-out deals, if you didn't care for quality and just wanted something that rolled for at least a short while. I recall reading some recent article where DT E1900s were praised as not really feeling much different from a flagship quality level from DT, which was high praise for the budget model, where the flagship got high praise for everything but price.

    Someone with one of them Rim Rench tools would probably be trying to straight that out. Your picture is like an advertisement to sell more Durocs.



    Apparently they are. Here is a pic of the front rim. Sounds like I should go with a straight replacement then?












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