Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread

    Howdy!

    New here, wasn't able to find a thread anywhere for this, so I'll make one here for my experience with mine, and for others to share as well.

    For basic information, this is a bigbox-store bike from Dicks Sporting Goods that's been on sale recently for as low as about $350, So I figured why not make this my first mountain bike!

    So, I've had mine for 5 days, only had a chance for roughly 30 miles on the trails, but have enjoyed it so far!
    Whoever Dick's is paying to setup bikes shouldn't be setting up bikes however. The derailleur hanger was badly bent when I got the bike, among other horrible settup issues, leaving to me to get a 20% discount on the bike and fix it myself. I'm a novice mechanic at a local volunteering bike house, and never turn down a repair (especially on something I'm buying if I can get a discount too!).

    The NX groupset shifts wonderfully, save for the NX shifter though I've heard most NX shifters aro questionable, and the all metal internals GX shifters are direct replacement. That'll be the next thing I replace.

    The derailleur hanger doesn't seem to be available from either Dick's or Nishiki, though I've found a site here (link) that has the exact replacement available for a little over $20.

    As I work on it and ride, I'll update here. For now, time to clean the mud off!

    (Posting mobile, will upload photos tonight)

    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread-3pdftq3.jpg
    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread-hqbm7fq.jpg

    Issues found so far:


    • Weak fork, will need to be replaced. The headset is oversized w/ 40mm I.D. bearings, should accept tapered forks with adapters, leaving options unlimited.
    • Cheaply made derailleur hanger, will need to be replaced with a CNC cut replacement from here (link)
    • Stock seat post is made from steel, and will bend when stressed. $20 replacement for a proper aluminum seatpost (or better yet, check your local bike co-op!)
    • TBD

    Running Gear Identified so far:


    • NX-11 Derailleur and Shifter, Nishiki branded crankset and (Samox??) narrow-wide chain ring
    • Tektro Aries mechanical brake groupset, with full aluminum levers.
    • Nishiki branded saddle
    • Kenda Havok Sport (part #213002) tubed (not tubeless ready) wire bead tires, paired with thick low-lead Kenda branded tubes
    • Hubs yet to be ID'd, seem to be lower-end un-branded
    • TBD
    Last edited by Thefoodman52; 11-28-2018 at 11:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    I just watched an on-line Youtube review where the guy recommended this bike. Can you get different sizes?

    I have no doubt that you'd have to really go through the bike and tighten/grease/lube things before hitting the trails.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

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    Yeah, the bike used to come in 16", 18", and 20", though it seems like the 16" got axed. I'm on the 20" frame, as I'm a local 6' 3" mongoloid creature, haha

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    I just picked one of these up also. Can't wait to get into the hobby.

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    Save your money on the shifter until it breaks, which might not be until more of the drivetrain needs replacing. Not a bad bike for the price. Nice that it's 1x, but needs hydraulic brakes and an air fork.

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    The Tektro Aries brakes are good enough to one-finger when setup properly. Just get the levers as far in as you feel comfortable and you can leverage them comfortable on one finger.

    The XCM fork is... yeah it's going to die. It's got that 'yellow-kiss-of-death' sticker on the back of it saying, "For leisure XC use only". Yeah. I'll be sure to keep that in mind while I'm pounding it into the ground off of local jumps here.

    The shifter is probably going to give up the ghost long before any of the rest of the drive train needs replacing unfortunately. Looked up some reviews on NX-11 shifters, and this is a common issue with them apparently. I have no issue spending $43 for a permanent solution.


    I did, however, find an extreme weak spot that almost landed me on my back doing a wheelie up an incline on the trail this weekend: the seat post that comes with this bike is steel.
    Yeah, I bent the bejeezus out of it riding a wheelie over a small bump. I'm about 228 lbs, so I'm kind of surprised it lasted 5 trail rides on the bike here.
    Got a proper aluminum one here locally for fairly cheap (still had to call around for anyone who had a 27.2mm one, ugh), so that's moot now.

    Last edited by Thefoodman52; 11-18-2018 at 07:36 PM.

  7. #7
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    That’s actually not a bad looking bike. What’s it weigh? I’d guess 34 lbs. my first bike was a Nishiki Manitoba that I paid about $350 for......back in 1991.

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    Yeah it's a heavy mug. Don't have a fish hook scale to weigh it, but it is definitely high-side of 30lbs.

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    What's the deal with the seatpost, is it thin-walled? Steel vs. aluminum doesn't tell the story. Aluminum isn't the preferred material for seatposts because of its strength.

    And my issue with the fork is not whether it will break or not, but at 228 lbs, I can virtually guarantee that you are oversagging it and bottoming it and it isn't doing it's job. An air fork, even a cheap one, can at least be adjusted to your weight, and that will make all the difference in the ride. Also, I think you have a straight 1.125 headset tube, which most likely precludes tapered steerer forks, which is ok, because you can still get an upgrade from Suntour that will do the job. And, if for some reason you don't like the Suntour, the Manitou Markhor comes in a variety of straight-steerer options.

    Also, don't kid yourself about the mechanical brakes. Yeah, they're decent and probably remarkable if your first disc brakes, but even a low-end set of hydraulics is a whole nother world of stopping power.

    And, I don't really see the point in replacing a shifter because it might break. Yes it's plastic, but who cares until it actually breaks. I mean, the NX11 derailleur is cheaper material, including plastic, than the GX, and more likely to break, but I don't see that as a reason to replace it. The only place I see bad reviews for the NX11 shifter is Amazon and it's still 84% 5-star. Most people think the NX11 is soup to nuts pretty darn good considering its price point. I have about 200 miles on mine without a single issue.

    Also, if you are replacing the seat post, you may wish to consider a dropper post as in this one. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod149024 And, you probably don't want to be on your seat while riding obstacles, or wheelieing or manualing over them. Most "action" riding is done out of the saddle and either behind or in front of it. Not an excuse for it to bend, but nevertheless . . . .

  10. #10
    yox
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    Wow, nice looking bike! That wouldn’t fit in at my local bike co-op as it seems everyone there has a beat up bike. Maybe that’s just in my head.

    Does anyone happen to know the effective rim diameter on these rims? Can’t find anything on the web as they seem to be proprietary nishiki rims.

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    Also, the bigger picture, as Eddy Merckx said, "ride up grades, not upgrades." Just ride the bike. For the most part it won't break and if it does, that is the time to consider small upgrades.

    When you get on this path of obsessing over upgrades, pretty soon you have spent your budget, or a sizable chunk of it, for the real upgrade: a new, more capable bike. When you start to exceed the purchase price in upgrades (real easy to do in this case), you may need to question what you're doing.

    A lot of us started riding on very similar, and in many cases, less capable bikes. We got a few good years out of them and an appreciation for the benefits of better components and a more refined sense of what we like to ride and what components benefit us.

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    Door buster at you know where, $350. I’m mildly tempted as a backup loaner salt grocery getter. If it had a tapered steerer......

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    Well it's got the next best thing: an oversized straight steerer. You can make it tapered with the cane creek adapter later on.

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    I read this in the YouTube comments. Anyone have this problem?

    Plus-sized rear tire with 135mm (non-boost) hub. Chainline is insane-- they used a wide BB spindle to keep the chain from grinding on the sidewall due to a cassette that sits well inside the tire, and even then the chain still just grazes the tire when it's in the lowest gear, even pulled crazily toward the wide-set chainring. If you back pedal while in the lowest 2 gears, the chain jumps down the cassette and gets jammed in a taller gear, where it may or may not be saved by pedaling. I've noticed that sometimes it causes the upper pulley to jump a tooth, which then causes the chain to grind in the derailleur, as it screws up the narrow/wide timing of the chain with the pulley. The only way to solve this is to release tension on the derailleur manually and rotate the pulley one tooth while keeping the chain in place. This happens under the low-stress conditions of bench testing, and I can't imagine it's any better while bouncing through a rock garden. The chainline is fully biased toward the smallest cogs, and sits at an extreme angle in the lowest gear. A Boost rear hub would help, as it would space the rear cassette outward, and they could have used a narrower BB spindle to further correct chainline. You could get partway there just by using a normal-sized MTB tire like a 2.1 or 2.3, and a narrower BB spindle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefoodman52 View Post
    Well it's got the next best thing: an oversized straight steerer. You can make it tapered with the cane creek adapter later on.
    Yeah I noticed that it might be oversized. However, that headset will add another $50 or so to the cost of a new fork for an unnoticeable, "longevity" upgrade. Unless you score a super deal on a really nice used tapered fork that fits otherwise, probably better off with the Markhor or a Suntour upgrade with a "drop in" straight steerer

    Spending the cost of the bike on upgrades is not totally irrational, in my opinion, but be aware that you can kind of nickel and dime yourself out of a good chunk of new bike budget. I'm sure you can do math as well or better than me or anyone else, but sometimes one's grand plans are, ultimately, short-sighted.

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    To ronmcmanus, yes the chainline is very close to the rear tire, and the bottom bracket width shoves it fairly far out. If I backpedal extremely fast for 2-3 full rotations, I can reliably get it to jump down from gears 1 and 2 as you described. A narrower bottom square taper BB and a 2.6" rear tire would fix this entirely, though I've noticed nothing while beating the tar out of my bike while jumping and climbing.

    To TwiceHorn, yeah I realise that in the end, this was, is, and forever will be a basic $350-400 hardtail, and will be treated as such. However, the headset thing is becoming tough to find new forks that are worth using that have a 15mm thru axle, which would be the only reason for the need on the adapter.

    I'll definitely be looking at better bikes later on, but I'm still having a blast on this one!

    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread-gyxykl5.jpg

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    Thank Foodman. My first upgrades will be for reliability. Can't wait to shred this thing
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by yox View Post
    Wow, nice looking bike! That wouldn’t fit in at my local bike co-op as it seems everyone there has a beat up bike. Maybe that’s just in my head.

    Does anyone happen to know the effective rim diameter on these rims? Can’t find anything on the web as they seem to be proprietary nishiki rims.
    They appear to be 27.5" rims.
    Are you asking what the inner width of the rim is?

    It lists the rims as, "Double wall alloy, 27.5+ X 30mm , plus-sized rim".

    All of the details are on the web site:
    https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p...oaAp6lEALw_wcB

  19. #19
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    Derailleur hanger ordered!
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    Sorry, I missed TwiceHorn's reply here last week.

    I have the fork pretty much maxed out on pre-load, but yes I have bottomed it out more than a handful of times pounding off of some drops.

    The mechanical brakes are indeed, still just mechanical brakes. For mechs though, these are about the best I think you'll find at the price. I pulled my levers inboard on the bars almost 2 inches or so, so that I can just one-finger pull both and have no problems locking up the rear or getting close to throwing myself over the bars if I squeeze too hard on the fronts. I have... we'll say "extra-large" hands, though, so this may work for me and not others.

    The reviews for the NX shifters are alright online, though I take issue with mine after it's vomited ALL of the shifter cable out randomly on me while trying to shift up once now, leading to the chain almost being broken from slinging and twisting it down from gear 1 (largest cog in the rear) to gear 11 (smallest cog) in less than half of a full rotation on the cranks.
    My friend who travels and rides started with an NX-11 groupset on his Commencal frame, and had similar complaints and issues with the shifter flexing inside and allowing more cable to pull out under load, and the shifter failing completely in a similar fashion as to what I had happen, albeit while stripping the gears out entirely. He ran the NX-11 derailleur for a good while afterwards running a GX series shifter without issue after that until upgrading to a 12 speed groupset.

    The seatpost is extremely thin walled, and it bent after doing 3 or 4 wheelies on the bike. I'm never saddled-in while climbing or riding obstacles, always have that thing slung down low and butt's high when we get to the head of tech or flow section.


    Don't get me wrong, I get that this bike is cheap and is basically a beginner setup. Still going to make the best of it, and try to keep this thing running as long as I can before it ultimately becomes recycling scrap.

    -edit-

    Got a dropper post for now, lol. (Can't seem to post another image here from imgur, just linked on text)
    Last edited by Thefoodman52; 11-28-2018 at 03:15 PM.

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    Nice dropper! Can anyone confirm if the stock tires are tubeless ready?


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    @ronmcmanus

    I wouldn't bet on it. They're licensed Kenda tires, using the Havok tread pattern, but they're lacking literally any other kind of indication on the sidewalls that would confirm this. Might just be me, but the rubber feels stiffer too.

    I can pop my front tire off here this week some time to see what kind of bead they use, and inspect the rims. They're double-walled, but I would assume at this point without my (or anyone else) eyes directly on the beads that they're probably not tubeless ready.

    -edit-

    Curiosity got the best of me. Ripped 'em off the rims here. We have a model number printed in the side.

    Model number: K1184A-005, ETRO 71-584 with a wire bead, Max PSI @ 25 PSI, which means these are actually Kenda Havok Sport tires, which are not tubeless ready according to Kenda's site here. (link to supporting PDF) If they were a folding bead tire, I think you could run it tubeless, but the wire bead would be questionable, I think, if you tried.

    The tires come with some THICK, real Kenda branded tubes inside, so I wouldn't stress it too much. I won't!

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    Thanks for the info. I would’ve loved to get this bike under 30 lbs without having to buy new TR tires. Maybe I’ll start the search for used ones to save a little. Since the cane headset adapter doesn’t fit, the only fork available is the Manitou Markhor which is close the $300


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    The cane creek adapters do not fit? How so?

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    Quoted from the BBB forum:

    “Well... the headset doesn’t fit? Taking to my lbs in the morning but pretty sure the diameter of the bikes headset is 32mm. Meaning it won’t take a 40mm bottom headset.”


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    I'm curious to see what comes of that.

    I just measured the OD of the upper and lower headset bearing cups on mine, they're at around 44.8mm (45mm essential OD). I'm curious if the inside diameter is literally 13mm smaller in diameter (indicating some THICK walled aluminum there, like ridiculously thick).

    He posted that about 10 days ago, maybe he'll have an update on that.

    --edit-

    Okay, took the fork out. News looks grim indeed. The inner diameter of the bearing cups are 30mm dead-on. I'd still like to get a measurement of the steerer without any cups installed, but here's my pictures.

    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread-f1wkeel.jpg
    Nishiki Colorado Comp 1x Thread-2vqf6ht.jpg

    I have doubts now if the adapters will fit after hammering the old ones out.

    It's not an integrated or a zero stack, that's for sure. I'll still hold out some hope that the ID where the cups sit is 44.0mm for now, but at 44.86mm... let's see what turns up.
    Last edited by Thefoodman52; 11-29-2018 at 10:55 PM.

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    ronmcmanus what size frame are you working with? I'd love to reduce mine to 30 lbs.? I have the 20" stock with platform pedals and I weighed it at approximately 36.5 lbs.
    I've ridden three times and it rides well for what it is. The chain stay location and chain setup is a mess, but it really hasn't caused any problems YET! I'll keep riding it.

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    I bought a 20" as well. Haven't been able to ride it yet due to my busy schedule. The stock pedals are supposed to be steel so you probably lost at least .5 lbs. How tall are you? I'm at 6' and the size chart on the Dicks website recommends a 20" but people also say the 18" rides like a large.
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    I appreciate you tearing the bike apart Foodman. If you have a ping pong ball laying around, see if you can drop it down in there. They're supposed to measure 40mm.
    Last edited by ronmcmanus; 11-30-2018 at 08:48 AM. Reason: I'm an idiot
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronmcmanus View Post
    I bought a 20" as well. Haven't been able to ride it yet due to my busy schedule. The stock pedals are supposed to be steel so you probably lost at least .5 lbs. How tall are you? I'm at 6' and the size chart on the Dicks website recommends a 20" but people also say the 18" rides like a large.
    I'm 6'-2" and the 20" is a great fit for me.

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    Hey everyone. Just bought the Colorado about a month ago and it is light years ahead of my other pos. Took it riding last week and here is the damage.

    Broken chain, removed 2 links and went on my way.

    Seat post bent, but probably my over weight butt breaking it. Seat was too far back and creating too much leverage on the post.

    Needs new pedals. Holy crap I can’t keep my feet (size 13) on them. Got a nice wack and bruise when the chain broke but I was having issues before that keeping my feet on it.

    I love this bike for the price I paid. Got me back on a bike and riding again. Can’t wait to ride it again.

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    Welcome! You’re not the only one who’s had issues with the weak seat post. Luckily their cheap to replace/upgrade.


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    Has anyone had any luck finding the Manitou Markur fork that will fit the Nishiki colorado? It’s a 15x110 thru axle.

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    I have not found anything really yet @JuanMSU. The Markhor fork from Manitou does look nice, but the only thing I can find as far as models of that with a straight steerer have a 9mm quick-realease dropout, no 15mm thru axle options.

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    18 Diamondback Release 1
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    You can also see the rest of his build on page 3.

    www.bigboxbikes.com • View topic - Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+
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    Hello Ronmcmanus,

    What size Colorado comp are you riding? Sub 3o lbs wow! I have the 20" and stock is 37.5 lbs. I'm considering selling it. After the first ride I'm driving the right crank arm into the right chain stay because of tight clearances. Did you have that problem? Did switching to the Sram crank offer a much stiffer crank to avoid this issue. Any feedback, thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll_On View Post
    Hello Ronmcmanus,

    What size Colorado comp are you riding? Sub 3o lbs wow! I have the 20" and stock is 37.5 lbs. I'm considering selling it. After the first ride I'm driving the right crank arm into the right chain stay because of tight clearances. Did you have that problem? Did switching to the Sram crank offer a much stiffer crank to avoid this issue. Any feedback, thanks.
    Going to an air fork will save ya 2+lbs.
    hollow tech bb maybe .25-.5 lb.
    Some schwalble 27.5x2.8 with light tubes 1-2lbs
    At the end of the day, expect to add $350+ (Very un conservative ballpark) to bring the weight down.
    If you can get the bike for $350, you might be in the green. The benefit of these budget bikes is that you can upgrade as you go and the component install knowledge/experience you gain is well worth it. If that’s not your thing, a local bike shop rig will work best.
    If you want to be in the 30 lb from the get go, you’re better off buying a trek rosco or salsa timberjack in the ballpark of $1000-1200. I have the 18” one and love riding this on level to low grade trails.

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    Bike rides great
    Last edited by Roll_On; 12-29-2018 at 01:14 PM.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll_On View Post
    Hello Ronmcmanus,

    What size Colorado comp are you riding? Sub 3o lbs wow! I have the 20" and stock is 37.5 lbs. I'm considering selling it. After the first ride I'm driving the right crank arm into the right chain stay because of tight clearances. Did you have that problem? Did switching to the Sram crank offer a much stiffer crank to avoid this issue. Any feedback, thanks.
    I have a 20” as well. I haven’t switched crank arms yet. You must be mistaking me for RustyNail on the BBB thread in one of my previous posts.


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  41. #41
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    Has anyone removed the headset and measured them?

    The steer tube inside diameter is 33.75mm
    EC34

    Does anyone make a EC34/44?
    Last edited by sdheavymetal; 01-09-2019 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Added size

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    I want to get in the sport and want to buy my first bike and have been all over the place. At $300 is this a good bike to take on a trail or will all the parts break and have to be replaced just after one ride which will add more cost. How heavy is the bike?

    I can also get a FS Marin hawk hill for $1065. But thinking of saving money and eventually get a carbon FS bike ina couple years.

    Any insight from owners

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    Firstly for this price its by far the best bike I've seen. The 1 x 11 SRAM NX is an awesome drivetrain for the price point. It was setup wrong when I left Dick's but I wrench bikes so it wasn't an issue. I've shared with bike industry friends and they're shocked that SRAM NX is on it as stock at the mentioned price. Brakes are mechanical but work fine. The bike rides similar to a soft trail MTB. Plenty suspension for any beginner OR intermediate trail. I've raced a Trek Fuel EX 9.9 soft tail FS and it rides similar. Retail on that bike was almost $10,000. The weight is the main thing that I don't like but its not a surprise for the price. Where I really notice the weight is on the front fork. The travel is minimal but is all you need for intermediate XC trails. I have the 20" frame and it's approximately 37.5 lbs weighing it on a standard digital scale. I didn't take it to a shop to be weighed if you really want accuracy. I would highly encourage you to jump in at $300 and see if you really like MTBing. I've MTB for over 25 years and still like it but I can have just as much fun on a road bike. I wouldn't get caught into the trap of upgrading components on this bike, after all it's a beginner bike. If you live in the Southeast US I'll sell you mine for $350 and can work something out for me to deliver to you. I have around 50 miles on it.

  44. #44
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    Last time I looked Dicks wanted 799 for the bike.

  45. #45
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    Daily MTB Rider actually created a video about this bike back in November.

    Trek Émonda SL6 | Intense Recluse

  46. #46
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    Yea it’s pretty good. He has another video where he added some parts to it.


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    18 Diamondback Release 1
    18 Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+
    93 Bridgestone MB2

  47. #47
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    Did we ever figure out for sure if this bike will take the cane Creek adapter? Seemed like it was a little iffy?

  48. #48
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    This is how I coverted my Nishiki 27.5+ stock wheels and tires to tubeless.
    https://youtu.be/K0YPqdk6cSk

  49. #49
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    What size are the factory rotors?


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    18 Diamondback Release 1
    18 Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+
    93 Bridgestone MB2

  50. #50
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    Anyone could measure Stand Over Height for 18'' ?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronmcmanus View Post
    What size are the factory rotors?


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    160mm

  52. #52
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    Thank you!
    18 Diamondback Release 1
    18 Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+
    93 Bridgestone MB2

  53. #53
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    "New" Colorado Comp 27.5+ @ 20” owner here.

    I was looking for a used bike and had some Roscoe 8s in OfferUP & CL in my sights, but decided to go for something 1/2 that price as a first go in a MTB after a long time. I have an borrowed Stumpjumper from the early 2000s and a 700C fixie as my "other" bikes. Sought and found a used Colorado comp example from a wholesaler who claimed it was "new" (it wasn't really) "but scratched in shipping" (it really was).

    I believe the issue was that the frame had imperfectly screened decals on it out of the factory and perhaps was also scratched in shipping from China. Eitherway, it was returned or deemed improper to be sold as a $800 MSRP bike, then was hastily put together and sold to a 3rd party for “some amount” that was low enough to make a profit reselling.

    The frame had chips of paint down to bare aluminium on either side of the top rail directly attributable to the brake levers hitting thanks to bad handling after it was assembled, there were rubs on the chain-stay/tail rails that had to be by stashing it against other bikes, the right brake lever was seriously bent and the rear derailleur was a bit bent, which would cause the chain to rub on the rear tire if you were to go up to the lowest gear. The front fork had a couple of scratches on the left side, and so did the front brake caliper. It is not a beauty queen - at least not if you get closer than 10ft - for sure.

    Other then that the wheels were true, the tires did not show any real wear and were properly mounted, the disc brakes were biting “OK”, although squeaking, and the rotors were like new - clean and true, the drivetrain did not make weird noises and gears - although not precisely indexed - did not have real issues other than what would be that bent derailleur.

    I negotiated the asking price $50 under and left with the bike.


    After a wash, some detailing with WD40 on the scratches & color rubs, sorting shifting and adapting the cockpit to my liking a bit, I think I did OK.

    My attempt to straighten the right brake lever a bit ended up breaking the ball at the very end off...meh, brake still works OK, and a pair of mechanical levers would be ~1/3 of the price of a M315 kit, so ... that is already in the mail.

    I was wondering whether just mounting the M315 kit on the OEM Tektro 160mm disks will be good enough, or whether I should consider also swapping the disks to Shimano...some people claim that this eliminated some noise for them. My brakes do squeak with the mechanical calipers/pads a bit. And if I was to go with a new rotor, should I “up” it to a 180 in the front? The cost is like $10 over a new 160 if you include the bracket, but I don’t know if I will really fill the difference outside of the “pimp” factor. The rear seems to lock up too easily with the 160 and I know the hydraulics will be more powerful/easier to modulate already - doubt I will be needing a bigger disk there. Don’t want to get carried away spending $ before even completing more than 20mi on the thing. Was one of the reasons I did not want to go for a M6000 brake kit: although not "expensive", it may be a bit too soon and not really fitting with the character of this bike's purchase. Just like the 180 disk if squeaking is not an issue.

    Also planning on going tubeless with the stock rims & tires “soon”. There are reports that this works fine even though the tires are not tubeless-ready.

    Coming from a lighter 26”, this thing is massive and feels heavy, but so far confidence is building up.

  54. #54
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    Has anyone been able to find it for under $500 again, cause I am only seeing it for about $700 now. It seems like a few youtubers made a video about how great of a pricing it is for a sram nx bike with plus tires that they decided to increase the price cause they know they could.

  55. #55
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    I have a buddy in Tampa that’s selling one for $500. Slightly used, upgraded. 18” frame, 29” wheels and the original 27.5 set.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by LezRide View Post
    Has anyone been able to find it for under $500 again, cause I am only seeing it for about $700 now. It seems like a few youtubers made a video about how great of a pricing it is for a sram nx bike with plus tires that they decided to increase the price cause they know they could.
    Im selling my medium Colorado for $750 with mods in Michigan. I upgraded fork, tires, crank and other items. Im looking to upgrade to a full suspension. I love the bike, but I already have a hardtail with 29" that I enjoy a little more. The grip of the plus size tires is awesome, but there's something about a 29 that makes it easier to climb slopes and go go faster. This bike is great as it comes, but upgrading tires and fork make it a game changer.

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9240985475132/

  57. #57
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    Not to beat a dead horse, but did we ever find out whether the head tube will take the cane creek press in adapter? I imagine the factory cup had to press into the head tube and was wondering if there’s enough clearance.

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