New rider. Need some upgrade suggestions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    New rider. Need some upgrade suggestions

    So I recently purchased a 2015 GT Force Carbon X.. I was just wondering what some nice upgrades would be. I already put on a Shimano XT 1x11cassete, derailer,shifter, and some spank 800mm handlebars. I'm just some what new to this but I feel like my riding skills are pretty decent for the short time I been riding. i I do not like the rear shock due to the fact the rebound control is covered by the bracket. So I have to use a small Allen wrench to adjust it and its alot harder than It sounds lol.
    Rear Travel 150mm
    Rear Shock FOX Float X CTD Adjust, 7.5"x2" Air Shock, with Rebound and Compression Adjust
    Fork FOX 34 Float 27.5" CTD FIT, FIT Damper, 15mm x100mm Thru Axle, with Adjustable Rebound and Compression, Lockout, Tapered Alloy Steerer
    Fork Travel 160mm
    Head Tube Diameter Tapered
    Headset Orbit C-40-ACB
    Handlebar Race Face Respond, 1/2" Rise, 785mm Width


    Stem Race Face Respond, 45mm Length
    Grips GT Statement Double Lock-On
    Brakes Shimano Deore Hydraulic Disc with 180mm Centerlock Rotors
    Brake Levers Shimano Deore, BL-M615
    Drivetrain 1x
    Shifters Shimano SLX, SL-M670, Rapid Fire, Right Side Only
    Front Derailleur N/A
    Rear Derailleur Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, Direct Mount, RD-M675-GS-D
    ISCG Tabs
    Chainguide Top Guide
    Cranks Race Face Evolve
    Chainrings 32 Tooth Narrow Wide
    Bottom Bracket
    Pedals N/A
    Chain KMC X10
    Cassette Shimano Deore XT, CS-M771-10, 10-Speed, 11-36 Tooth
    Rims WTB ST i23 TCS 650b, 32 Hole
    Hubs Shimano HB-M678, SLX, for Center Lock Disc Rotor
    Spokes DT Swiss Industry Stainless
    Tires Continental Mountain King 27.5"x2.4", Folding Bead
    Saddle WTB Silverado
    Seatpost KS LEV Integra, with Remote
    Seatpost Diameter 34.9mm
    Seatpost Clamp All Terra Alloy Bolt-On, 38.1mm
    Rear Dropout / Hub Dimensions 12mm x142mm Maxle
    New rider. Need some upgrade suggestions-img_20190301_195753_01.jpgNew rider. Need some upgrade suggestions-img_20190302_103121_01.jpg

  2. #2
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    "don't buy upgrades, ride upgrades"

    But if you want to throw some money at it get carbon wheels.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Cycologist
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    How about some grips that coordinate with the bike rather than those pink ones?
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Remember, there's always quilting and knitting if pedalling becomes too tough.

  4. #4
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    Tires are the easiest. The Contis are heavier by 200g than Schwalbe Hans Dampf or Maxxis High Roller 2. 23mm inner rim wheels are heavy and you can go to a 30mm to 35mm inner carbon DT350 wheelset from BTLOS for less than $800. Wider rims give you more tire options from Maxxis and Bontrager XR Teams. CushCore in the rear.

  5. #5
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Lol just got lime green bars so those will.be changing soon.

  6. #6
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Thank you. I was thinking wheel set I'm just pretty new to this so I wasn't sure what to go with.

  7. #7
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    Iíd replace the shock with a Manitou McLeod and the fork with a Manitou Mattoc comp/pro. You can buy both cheaper than a set of carbon wheels and it will completely change your riding experience once you have it set up.

  8. #8
    Wanna ride bikes?
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    Quote Originally Posted by lachman View Post
    Iíd replace the shock with a Manitou McLeod and the fork with a Manitou Mattoc comp/pro. You can buy both cheaper than a set of carbon wheels and it will completely change your riding experience once you have it set up.
    If I'm replacing perfectly good suspension it's not going to be with a Manitou comp anything. When someone is on i23 rims and you recommend replacing the suspension, it tells me you'd rather burn cash than make meaningful upgrades.

    OP, wheels are a great place to spend your money. A good rear hub and wider modern rims will transform your ride more than anything else. You don't need carbon hoops to have good wheels either, aluminum rims are excellent and 1/6th the cost.

    Edit: on yeah, and if you really want to "upgrade", get a 29er.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  9. #9
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Yeah I think I'm definitely leaning towards the wheel set

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    , it tells me you'd rather burn cash
    Sounds like that's the entire purpose of this thread in the first place.

    If you're a new rider, you're fine with what's on there already. Stop shopping, keep riding, replace shit as it gets worn out or breaks.
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  11. #11
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Hey well I got money to spend and I know enough but I am still learning. Just wanted some opinions on upgrades. Nothing wrong with that.

  12. #12
    Rod
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbt801@gmail.com View Post
    Hey well I got money to spend and I know enough but I am still learning. Just wanted some opinions on upgrades. Nothing wrong with that.
    I think what everyone is saying is ride what you have before you drop a grand on a set of wheels. I know it isn't what you want to hear, but stay with me for a minute. As you keep advancing you're going to start messing with tire pressures and hitting bigger jumps/drops. I would rather dent or destroy your WTB i23 wheels by using too low a pressure, bad landing, etc. than a 800 dollar set of wheels. Set that money aside to a place where it won't be touched, ride, and upgrade these wheels a year later, or the entire bike. Just my .02. Nothing wrong with what you're doing, but it may cost more in the future than learning on your current parts. Good luck.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    If I'm replacing perfectly good suspension it's not going to be with a Manitou comp anything. When someone is on i23 rims and you recommend replacing the suspension, it tells me you'd rather burn cash than make meaningful upgrades.

    OP, wheels are a great place to spend your money. A good rear hub and wider modern rims will transform your ride more than anything else. You don't need carbon hoops to have good wheels either, aluminum rims are excellent and 1/6th the cost.

    Edit: on yeah, and if you really want to "upgrade", get a 29er.
    Why do motorsport teams spend obscene amounts of money on suspension and time setting it up? Have you ever had good suspension on a bike/car/motorbike? Itís life changing. You can have the best wheels and tyres in the world but they are useless if they arenít in contact with the ground.

    I just replaced my fox 36 for mrp ribbon forks because I couldnít hang on to the bike after 3 runs because my hands were so sore. With the new fork I can do many more runs and do harder lines. I have more front end grip because my front wheel stays on the ground more instead of bouncing me off the track on rough steeper sections and I have way more confidence in the bike.

    If you want to spend money on your bike then go ahead. Iím pretty new to it as well and I wasnít going to get new forks because I thought that I just needed to ride more. Iím glad I spent the money though, I love riding my bike now instead of worrying about sore hands for a week after a ride.

    At the very least get the fork and shock serviced and tuned if possible to suit the rider.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lachman View Post

    I just replaced my fox 36 for mrp ribbon forks because I couldnít hang on to the bike after 3 runs because my hands were so sore. With the new fork I can do many more runs and do harder lines.
    I never said suspension is a bad place to spend your money, it's an excellent upgrade for some people. Given the choice of a Manitou comp fork or a Fox 34 I'll take the Fox 34 every time. I also happen to own both.

    If you couldn't get along with the Fox 36, it wasn't the forks fault. Some test and tune time and learning how to set up your suspension is a lot cheaper than just replacing it with something else.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  15. #15
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Complelty understandable. Lol I got the bike for a grand and was expecting to spend a few thousand on a bike this year so I just kind of had the itch to upgrade a few things. But you're right maybe I need to ride it out for the season first before dropping that kind of cash. Thanks for all the input.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Some test and tune time and learning how to set up your suspension is a lot cheaper than just replacing it with something else.
    This.
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  17. #17
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    I spent plenty of time trying to set it up but itís pretty well documented how terrible the 17í 36 is.

    Why is spending money on your bike frowned upon a lot on this forum? I bought a new fork because I could afford it, I set it up to the MRP settings and it ripped from the first run. I didnít have to spend hours reading through a thread dedicated to how terrible the fork is to figure how to set it up because the fox settings arenít even close. I wonít ever buy a fox fork or shock because of how terrible this fork is.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lachman View Post
    Why is spending money on your bike frowned upon a lot on this forum? .
    Seems to me that shopping actually gets more attention here than mountain biking does, in general. Even to the point that I'm pretty sure the most common advice given when someone asks a question about riding is 'go buy something'.
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  19. #19
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    I have a bike from similar vintage ('15) albeit mine is a SC, but I just upgraded the wheelset this offseason, which has already been recommended. Getting somewhat wider rims (I don't know what the max size tire you can fit on your frame). For me, it was 2.5-2.6 in rear, so I went with a 25mm internal width rim. Then pick out your tires and set up tubeless. As you just upgraded the drivetrain, I think the wheelset makes the most sense. Your tires are the most important part of your bike (just like on your car). Spend some extra time figuring out what you want out of your tires. I lean toward durability, then price, then grip, then weight. By the time I was done I was in for $1Kish, and that was used wheelset. Not hard to spend $$$. Good luck
    2015 Santa Cruz 5010 C

  20. #20
    NedwannaB
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbt801@gmail.com View Post
    Thank you. I was thinking wheel set I'm just pretty new to this so I wasn't sure what to go with.
    Regarding purchasing new wheelset, keep in mind your bike is non boost(15x100/12x142 not 110/148 spacing)so pay attention to that when shopping. Good thing is 100 is 'so outdated' you should be able to score some good prices.
    Last edited by JMac47; 4 Days Ago at 01:26 PM. Reason: Typo
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  21. #21
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Regarding purchasing new wheelset, keep in mind your bike
    is non boost(15x100/12x142 not 110/148 spacing)so pay attention to that when shopping. Good thing is 100 is 'so outdated' you should be able to score some good prices.
    I thought 650b was boost? K never mind I read up on it

  22. #22
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    Looking at the parts list on your bike...there really isn't a "need" to replace anything on your bike...but I do understand the need to tinker and upgrade parts to make the bike a bit more your own. I'd just ride the bike for now...and replace parts when you feel that its lacking in a certain department for where you ride.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbt801@gmail.com View Post
    I thought 650b was boost? K never mind I read up on it
    No. As JMac47 correctly pointed out, you need 15x100 axle spacing front and 12x142 axle spacing rear. Anything that indicates "boost" will be a no go. You should also match up your rotor type (either 6-bolt or spline mount) to make life easier. And one final thing is to pay attention to the rear drive style of the hub. Stay away from xD, again, just to make life easier.
    2015 Santa Cruz 5010 C

  24. #24
    OgdenMTBdude801
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    Awesome guys thanks for all the input!

  25. #25
    the half breed devil
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    Quote Originally Posted by apbt801@gmail.com View Post
    Awesome guys thanks for all the input!
    if it makes you feel better, consider that i purchased a new 2017 marin hawk hill for $1399.

    i've got about $2200 in upgrades in that bike, easily. the only stock parts on the bike are the bottom bracket, headset and rear shock.

    other than the dislocated shoulder a month after i bought it, my hawk hill has been a King Hell World Of Fun.

    i hope your GT turns out that way, too.

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