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  1. #801
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    @bryan_d
    How does perform your 350R after a longer time from lubrication?

  2. #802
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    I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...
    OK, please let us know your opinion after some time.

    Thx in advance!

  4. #804
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    I too use the recommended Molykote 55 for the seals, but I also wipe the stanchions clean after each ride and then spray with Fork Juice, or Maxima Suspension Clean to keep everything slick.

    I get about 3 months out of my 380 C2Rs Ti, of 3 days a week at the bike park before the fork starts to get a little stickier. Doing the same with my 350 NCRs I get some benefit from service every 6 months or so (as trail riding is way less harsh than the bike park).

    With the seals, make sure that you really pack the gap in them with lots of grease to keep them running stiction free for as long as possible.

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    Thanks for infomration.
    Are you sure that red one's are the same as SKF ?

    There is a significant difference in price between red and green.

    If I make a lower drop and lubricate seals and bushings then the fork works great, sensvivity is very good but after 1-2 week performance goes very low.
    I am chiming back with my 350 R experience, and the stiction is back since the fresh lubing. I am currently looking into some custom springs but I have been lagging on it; trying to decide between dropping moola on SKF seals or a custom spring.

    Bryan


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  6. #806
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    Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.

  7. #807
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    Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.

    Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.

    Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.
    If you read older posts in this thread, it seems slick honey is not a great product for this fork. From what I understand, the cartridge is semi-open bath and uses a port to exchange oil between the damper and lowers (which is likely the noise you hear on big hits). If slick honey mixes in with the lowers oil, it can clog this port.

    See this post: http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5/marzocch...l#post11743057

  9. #809
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    I've read most of this thread, I own a few Marz forks. I only put a small amount between the lips of the seals to lube the dust seals. I didn't pump it into the lowers, it would need to get past another set of seals yet.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  10. #810
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    I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.

  11. #811
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    Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal.

    By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal.

    By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?
    The cartridge isn't sealed, it sucks bath oil in through a one way valve in the base of the cartridge and has a small hole at the top of the cartridge where oil can vent from when the the damper experiences a high compression load. That is also why the bath oil has to be the same (at least on the damper side) as what's in the cartridge itself.

    That's why it's called the DBC (Dynamic Bleed Cartridge).
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by psycle-on View Post
    I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.
    I would say it is probably a little of both. Also I feel the stiction when doing "parking lot" and static tests seems to disappear while riding after the oil has circulated a bit. I will also say I prefer the feel of this fork over the 34 Fit 4.

  14. #814
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    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.
    i did put 40ml each, and feels better than ever.


    and a quiestion.
    would a '10 rc3(160mm travel) cartide fit into a 350cr?

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marynos View Post
    How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

    MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.
    40 ml is OK. If you add more oil to air leg you increase progressivity of travel. I put 25 ml in each leg as suggested. MZ changed this in recent years, because there is no longer open bath but new DBC damper where you put oil inside the cartridge, then add this little amount (25 ml) for lubrication of sliders.
    L_u_k_a_s

  17. #817
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    Regarding to the stiction, my technician says that the problem is with the poor quality bushings
    Last edited by Marynos; 06-27-2016 at 06:03 AM.

  18. #818
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    Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  19. #819
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.
    Did you change the stock seals? How much oil did you put into lowers?

  20. #820
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    Lowers haven't been dropped, I did not change the seals out.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  21. #821
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    Hi,

    I just a bought a used 350 NCR Ti (not in a great shape) and I think it needs a good service. I found the video online for the NCR series service. Is there any thing else I need to be careful of on the Ti ? I've been working on marzocchis a long time ago, so I'm not too worried, but I'd rather ask.

    Also, I may change the travel. Same. I found the video for the CR and NCR, but not the Ti, is it the same procedure ? What happens to the coil spring ? Is it going to be preloaded if I put a 20mm spacer inside ? That wouldn't be good !

    n.b. I read the topic, but don't recall seing any of that.

    Thanks

  22. #822
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    Swissam,
    I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcmnorcal View Post
    Swissam,
    I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks
    I'm not getting one unless I see one cheap on Ebay. Trying to save money plus I want a new Gibson guitar. My pikes are good enough for now after sending then to a tuning shop here in Switzerland. Nothing special just new SKF seals and some special oil and they feel better than new.

  24. #824
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    I have a NCR350 can I just toss in whatever 7.5w or is there a certain brand I should stick with? I'm just going to drop lowers, clean and lube dust seals and reassemble. My 44micro ti I just run Sway away 7.5w oil in cause I had it here. Being these are known for getting sticking and the cartridge bleeds into the bath oil I figured I'd check.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  25. #825
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    Marzocchi recommend Spectro 7.5w, but any 7.5 will do in a pinch.

  26. #826
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    Ha dropped my lowers, got NO oil at all from the air side and less than 10cc's from the damper side. Pulled the dust seals and the space inside was full of clear lube that looked a lot like slick honey. NO way I put even close to that much in there.

    I put 50cc's of bath oil in each leg, the oil in the air chamber and lubed up the seals and all real good. Feels great!


    I'd like to service the damper next time I drop the lowers. Any special bleed procedure for the DBC? Internet isn't exactly overflowing with info on these forks.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  27. #827
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    Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

    Had the same experience with no oil at all in the air leg

    I always lube the seals internally too BUT in my experience it is lubing the sliders (with silicon spray) after every few rides that keeps fork plush.
    L_u_k_a_s

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by enregistree View Post
    Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

    Had the same experience with no oil at all in the air leg

    I always lube the seals internally too BUT in my experience it is lubing the sliders (with silicon spray) after every few rides that keeps fork plush.
    Thanks! I found that video when I was searching but didn't know it was the same.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyco View Post
    so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?

    I just nabbed one and like it so far.

  30. #830
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    Looks like Fox are busy with Marzocchi, rebranded Transfer post and plenty more happening behind the scenes according to Singletrack mag at eurobike.

  31. #831
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    I went on the marzocchi page the other day and it was updated and has 2017 stuff on it.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  32. #832
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    What's the widest tyre that can safely be squeezed into a 350? Rim inner width of ~35mm.

    Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?

    Thanks

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post

    Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?

    Thanks
    The coating on my 2015 NCR started to wear pretty early on. I was told that it's a common issue and just cosmetic.

  34. #834
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    My 2015 has a noticeable amount to of wear on the expresso coating.

    Looks like my NCR350 is coming apart soon. Left side leg seal is pushing oil and top of damper adjuster is leaking now. Marzocchi has the damper listed as 1 unit but I'm going to try and pull it apart and replace the seal I think.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  35. #835
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    Has anybody experience with serviceing the 053 shock?
    Mine has air in it. And the instructions on the marzocchi websites require some special tools and a vacuum pump.

  36. #836
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    Hi guys,

    Quick opinion request please:
    I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...

  37. #837
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    Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".

  38. #838
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    Forgot to mention the 2.8 High Roller II is on a Easton ARC 30 Rim 35 mm outer width

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by owenfranssen View Post
    Hi guys,

    Quick opinion request please:
    I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...
    It all depends on which flavour of kool-aide your drinking.... tuning ability of air spring or linear rate coil spring..... use full travel only when need... or every time you ride.

    Personally I'd go for the CR if the cost is palletable. I prefer to have the abilty to tune the spring rate to my liking for my weight and way I ride and I like a progressive spring curve. The twang of my fork bottoming out is not music to my ears. Also the low speed compression adjustment actually makes noticable difference in the fork behaviour.

    However, out of the box the CR does come with a very progressive curve due to the volume of oil in the air chamber. I tipped mine upside down and let as much oil out as possible without removing the valve core to be able to get full travel. I run 71 psi (I'm around 165lbs fully loaded) only bottomed out when I got something wrong and could not get fully travel in a carpark test.

    I recently serviced my fork and found with no oil in the chamber and pumped to 71psi and did a carpark test and easily blew right through the travel. I ended up with 10mm of oil in the air chamber to get the progression curve i wanted.

    Bottom line if you not in the coil camp and like to fettle then definitely go the CR.

    Full setup :- 71psi, 4-5 clicks rebound (from fastest) 2-4 clicks low speed compression.

  40. #840
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    Anyone try the Enduro seals instead of the SKF ones that are in the 350NCR? My fork feels great till the seals get dry then it gets sticky. Pry the dust seals out and put a thin coat of oil on the lower seals and stickiness is gone.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  41. #841
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    ^^ This makes me feel good about not springing for the NCR to get the expresů coat.
    Haven't tried them, but I did email the enduro fork seals guy when I got my 350CR to ask if they would fit (as I like them on my old RS rev). He wasn't sure, but kind of insinuated that he'd refund the cost of the seals if I ordered them and let him know if they worked or not. Didn't have the cash for 35mm seal press at the time so never got around to it. I've just got into the habit of using some Finish Line stantion lube as part of my pre-ride checks to remove the stiction.. (tyres, oil chain, wipe and lube stantions, invert fork as I walk bike out the garage, ride).... I would be keen to know how they go if you decide to go with the enduro fork seals.

  42. #842
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    The SKF seals are considerably less sticky than the standard seals. I had the 888, and have the 350NCR and 380 C2R2 Ti and it's a noticeable difference in how long it takes for things to get sticky.

    I'd recommend packing the seals with Molykote, keeping everything clean, and applying a dry silicon lube like Fork Juice, or Finish Line Teflon lube after each ride. For me, this keeps everything super plush at the seals for longer than the oil service intervals.

  43. #843
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    I already spray the fork with finish line. I don't have to do any of this with my old pre Kashima float36.

    To be clear the SKF seals are sticky. I'm hoping maybe the Enduro ones aren't not.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  44. #844
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    Hi,

    I bought also a SKF seals for my 350 CR and frankly speaking nothing changed.
    After some days after service (molykote on seals) fork is sticky.

    Money spent in the mud...

    What do you think to remove the oil seals since there is a sealed cardridge inside? In Fox and SR forks you can also add a certain volume of oil into lower legs and they are working fine only with dust seals.

  45. #845
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    Nice out of the box thinking. It might be possible, risky though, I wouldn't do it. Not sure how much the seals help protect from rubbing on the bushing. Also might mean you have to change oil more often though as more dirt will reach the oil.
    Yea it's a sealed cartridge, but as I understand it, the DBC needs the oil bath in the bottom of the fork leg to work properly and cycle the oil. So I'd expect as long as you aren't losing oil it would work.

    I'm not 100% certain on the air side, but the air tube is sealed so the oil seals are only keeping the oil for lubing the bushes in the lower. Once again though how much do the seals work to keep from rubbing against the bushings.

  46. #846
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    You may be right.

    I was also thinking to change the oil in dbc cartridge from 7.5 W (golden spectro, 26 [email protected]įC) to 5W Motorex (22,60 [email protected]).
    Maybe LSC will be weaker and it will have good impact on initial smoothness.

  47. #847
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    Yea, I changed to 5w Motorex from 15w rock oil, cause I can't get spectro any where. These guys reckon [http://www.shockcraft.co.nz/news/bik...-august-2016/] the 5w motorex is the same as Specto.

    Initially I did find what you suggested the LSC seemed to soften up a bit (2 clicks worth) But that could because, I did a full clean and grease with molykote 55 of all seals at the same time (didn't replace any seals) and I initially didn't put as much oil back into the air spring. Added more oil to add more progression since and haven't need the extra 2 clicks of LSC.

  48. #848
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    Golden Spectro [email protected]

    To obtain the same viscosity as Marzocchi 7,5W Golden Spectro, Motorex oils should be mixed in the following ratio: 70% of 5W and 30% of 7.5-W.
    You say that you didn't notice difference?


  49. #849
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    It's also worth checking that everything is aligned fine with your bushings, and that they're clean and lubed. I've seen way more problems with stickiness from bushing problems than seal issues. If you've got a twist/bend in there somewhere then you'll get that sticky feeling - no matter how happy your seals are.

  50. #850
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    What do you propose for lubrication of bushings? Molykote 55 or non silicone grease?

  51. #851
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    I read somewhere, Marz recommend molykote 55 because it doesn't react with the Golden Spectro and gunk up the internals. Molykote 55 and rock oil definitely do turn into a nasty gunk. Haven't reopened my fork yet since changing to motorex to see how they react.

    Its always hard to say if the it's the oil or just a refreshed suspension all together. But yes I do notice a lighter feeling LSC with motorex 5W during. But this also gave the LSC a bit more tuning range for me. I can run a little less LSC (usually 3-4 clicks) without it getting all squirmy mid corner when my weight shifts. Now I can range from 2-6 clicks from full open. 2 for when I'm feeling like I just was it super plush for general tail duty and 6 if I really want charge. I.e a timed event.

    But I find the thing that makes the most difference to the initial seal stiction is the finisline stanchion Fluoro oil.

  52. #852
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    So i jsut discovered marks on my MZ 2015 ncr air, on both legs, long for about 10 cm, single straight line going deep under seals.. Have anyone been able to resolve what causes the marks and how to prevent them from appearing?

  53. #853
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    I had the stanchions score twice. I resolved the issue by getting a manitou mattoc. No scratched stanchions since.

  54. #854
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    The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.

  55. #855
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.
    My warranty is out, do you know if i can buy new lowers somewhere?

  56. #856
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    Where are you based? In the UK I posted nine to Windwave. The cost was £70

  57. #857
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    Poland.. did they replace your lowers for 70£? It wasnt warranty replacement right?
    And lastly, did this help with the marks on lowers or did they appear again?

  58. #858
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    What do the marks look like? I have some lines on my NCR air stanchions but they are not really scratches or scoring. More like discolouration of the expresso coating. The marks line up nicely with the slots in the internal bushings on the lowers. The fork still works fine.

  59. #859
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    Thats how it looks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-img_20170517_181122.jpg  

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-img_20170517_181137.jpg  


  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by seankdebree View Post
    Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".
    do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by hans2vt View Post
    do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!
    I'd love each to see a picture of this. I can't even run a fender with a 2.35 Magic mary in mine or a SE4 due to massive clearance issues.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  62. #862
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    I think this thread should be moved to "shocks and suspension".

    I recently put a 350 NCR on my Troy and have been completely and totally impressed with the performance of it.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  63. #863
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    I put a 350 NCR on my Patrol that I recently finished and am completely thrilled with it. I did a complete tear down when I got it to get familiar with it. Pretty easy to work on. Refreshed the oil, added some extra, and cleaned and greased the air spring. With any luck I'll get years of issue free service. Time will tell.
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  64. #864
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    Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
    If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
    My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried shit will break if i put different oil in lowers

  65. #865
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    I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff. I change the oil in the lowers and grease the seals regularly. I have been using Fox 10-W oil or 7.5W motorcycle fork oil.

  66. #866
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    Did you change the damper oil everytime also or just the lowers?

  67. #867
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    The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff.
    Coming off a Pike, the 350 NCR Air is beyond amazing. I'm just completely blown away with the performance. It's the best fork that I've ever ridden by a good margin.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  69. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drybear View Post
    The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.

    What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm
    I think the original oil is 7.5w but I use 5w on the damper side. Its not a problem to mix them, you might have to add a click on the compression/rebound with a thinner oil but thats all.

  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
    If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
    My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried shit will break if i put different oil in lowers
    I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.
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  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBurnsie View Post
    I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.
    You can hear a low sound on fast rebound strokes and I guess that is when it sucks the oil up and circulates it in the damper.

  73. #873
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    I use motorex 5W fork oil in my CR, both damper and air side. I can't be bothered dealing with two different oil weights. The 350 is so easy to service I'm sort of the opinion: why complicate things?

    That being said, I have mixed left over 5wt & 15wt rock oil to make a 7.5wt to put in the lowers when the stock Golden Spectro was in the damper. Everything worked fine, but the rock oil and molykote 55 do turn into a nasty gunk after a while.

    Marz used to spec 7.5W Golden Spectro with molykote 55 o-ring grease. Supposedly this combination won't gunk up the DBC, but I don't know what they spec since Fox took over.
    It's near on imposible to get Golden Spectro in my corner of the world, so I prefer to use a fork oil that has similar cSt rather than weight.

  74. #874
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    Allright, this got me pushed, ill strip my 350 today

  75. #875
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    Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?
    Its there to keep some oil for lubricating the air piston. Put a few ml of oil inside the airspring cylinder and you will be fine.

  77. #877
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    Yeah i did so, i assume it can work just fine without it as long as it has the oil inside?
    Anyway, what custom mods are there available for MZ 350 ncr?

  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I'm always rooting for Marzocchi. It would be cool to see them get more market share.
    agree. they had the best performing forks on the market around 2000. i would like to see a return simply because competition is wonderful when it comes to keeping prices in check.

  79. #879
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    Does anyone know the specs of the 350 negative coil? I've been nerding out on my fork lately and thinkin it would be even better with a longer negative coil. Especially since it's currently travel dropped to 150 anyway.

  80. #880
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    65mm as per the manual

  81. #881
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    No issues stanchions with my 2016 NCR air .. seems like marzocchi solved the issues

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by maclgallant View Post
    65mm as per the manual
    Spring rate?
    Rod diameter?
    Coil diameter?
    Coil spacing?

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    Well, I finally ordered a 2016 320 LCR for 27.5. I read this thread twice and I think I have a pretty good idea of what to do when it arrives.
    Since most posts are about the 350 series, I assume there might be some differences but hopefully not many.
    So, correct me If I'm wrong:
    1. New fork and just installed. If sticky and dry, ride it for a while, make sure it moves around so whatever factory grease and oil circulates and wakes the fork up. Reason for that would be because of how the DBC works.

    2. If still sticky, drop lowers, check oil levels, add as necessary (Anyone knows what oil the 2016 320 series use, so I can get the same one?), grease seals thoroughly with molykote 55. Anything else I should grease or add oil?

    3. Ride it again, stickiness should be solved. Set up fork for my liking and adjust oil level on air chamber if more progressivity is needed.

    Anything else?
    I have never taken a fork apart but i'm confident I can do a damn lower leg service as long as I follow instructions. If its not needed and the fork feels great out of the box, great.

  84. #884
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    Same question, exactle what names of oils tou use in left leg and right?
    At least few brands and their exact oils..
    OK

  85. #885
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    In my 350 NCR I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5 which I found at Niagara Cycles
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  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBurnsie View Post
    I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5
    exactly where to?
    OK

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    exactly where to?

    In the lower leg on the damper side, for your DBC, I put around 25ml in the air chamber to aid in progression, and 25 ml in the lower leg on the air side for splashing the bushings.
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  88. #888
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    I have been having some stiction problems with my new (new old stock) Marzocchi 44 Micro STA fork. I contacted fox (who has awesome customer service) and recieved the following reply,


    Please see my answers in red below. The timing of your email is excellent, I just met with reps from Marzocchi (Itally) two days ago and your questions are pertinent.

    Ed


    Hi,

    I am writing in hopes that you may be able to answer my 3 questions regarding the 2015 Marzocchi 44 Micro Switch TA fork. I have been searching for the answers for several days and have been hard pressed to find anything / get any responses. If you can't answer and I need to contact other folks I understand and appreciate your time

    Back ground on the fork, I bought it new about a month ago off of ebay as a new old stock item. It has no warranty that I am aware of and was slightly sticky brand new. Per several sites(one being the Marzocchi blogspot.se) that I have found I removed the lowers, drained all the factory oil out, packed slick honey in the area between the dust wipers and seals, greased the stachions, bushings and seals with slick honey, then refilled each leg with 20ml of Finish line 7.5wt oil. It was fantastic for about 2 rides.

    1. After sitting for about a week the fork now feels as though it has a lot of stiction throughout the travel range. It is most noticeable in the very beginning as it take considerably more pressure to get the fork to compress at the start on the travel than to keep the fork moving while ďBouncingĒ up and down. It is also noticeable if the fork is compressed part way held, then pressure added to compress the fork further. Is this normal?

    A. We have just found out from the Marzo engineers that the fox 20wt bath oil is now recommended over the original 7.5 wt oil as long as the forkís damper is not an open bath damper. This new oil selection will definitely help the plushness of the fork.

    2. Is this just the break in period or do I need to drop the lowers again and replace the oil with golden spectro or similar and relube the system with slick honey?

    A. Refer to my answer to #1, you should not need to add the slick honey, it will just wash away after the fork cycles up and down a few times.

    3. If I need to replace the oil should I use a lower weight?

    A. Back to answer # 1


    Now do be careful here as the 44 is a sealed cartridge system, and the use of the heavier oil only comes into play for those forks that have sealed cartridges. So if you have a sticky fork and its a sealed cartridge give this a try. I can verify that it works.

  89. #889
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    2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    Fork is making wistles when coming up.
    When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
    Any suggestions, please?
    OK

  90. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    Fork is making wistles when coming up.
    When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
    Any suggestions, please?
    Its normal on these forks, I guess the sound is when the damper circulates oil from the lower leg. Its music in the rock gardens

  91. #891
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    After some experimenting here are my tips for significantly decreasing the initial stiction in 350 CR forks......

    1. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air side lower leg.

    2. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air chamber if you're tuning spring rate . If you're like me and choose not to, still add only 1-2ml 15wt oil just to lube the air position and seals.

    3. Chamfer the top and bottom corners of the Air piston head with a Utility knife (remember to remove the seals first so you don't cut them). The 350 air piston head has a very square corner on it. The chamfering will help reduce fiction between the piston head and the air tube. It will also help the oil to get to seal.


    4. Roughen the whole piston head with some 240 grit sand paper.... "if a surface is too smooth there is nowhere for the oil to stick to to the surface"..


    5. Pack the air piston head seal grooves with grease before reinstalling the seals. RWC super slick grease seems to work much better than molykote 55 for greasing the piston head and seals.

  92. #892
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    Well, eventually the only thing that helped my 350cr was buying almost new 350r for 150$.
    Things I've noticed right away:
    1. Old lowers with used seals and bushings are sliding on new uppers(with simple anodizing) like a charm, no sticktion at all. But probably going to stick to new lowers cause there are some visible damage on the old bushings
    2. New lowers on old uppers with fading gold race coating could even hardly move...
    3. Rebound piston on almost new 350R sometimes gets stuck when pushed in (fastest rebound, properly bled). I've never seen this on my CR and it seems odd considering R and CR share the same rebound piston and damper tube.

    So basically I've put my CR damper into the new R coil fork.
    Greased bushings with a cocktail of Mobil XHP222 grease and 10w-40 motor oil.
    Greased the oil seals with Molykote 55.
    Put foam rings soaked in oil between the dust and oil seals like it was in older Marz forks.
    Put motor oil into coil leg and damper oil into damper leg.

    Yes, there is initial sticktion, but considering that old lowers work great on new uppers it will probably go away after some time.

    Now I need to decide between air or coil spring, but for now I like that coil feel.

  93. #893
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    Hello.
    Few questions about my new Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016 https://www.marzocchi.com/System/295...NCR_RF1-00.pdf
    So, fork disassembled. I'v got Molykote 55 grease, Motorex FETT 2000 grease, Castrol Moly Grease with Molibdenum, Motul Fork Oil Light Medium SAE 7.5W.





    1) What grease to use when lubing the rod (#50 datasheet, #3 my photo)?
    https://youtu.be/HLnY-Gap-1M?t=327 - here he uses some dense grease (and a lot of it). When I disassembled my fork there was more fluid grease.
    https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=554 - here he didn't even use any grease...

    If somebody will advise to grease with Molykote 55 - is it so? I mean, that grease is very expensive, I thought it should be used in some other places where we need a little bit of grease...



    2) I didn't change oils seals and dust seals in lower legs. Should I grease them (inner diammeter of each seal)? With what? Molykote 55?



    3) Where and how much to pour the oil?
    https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=710 - he pourred some quantity to each lower leg (I don't understand how it didn't came out?..); and some quantity of oil to stanchion where after that he will put in air chamber https://youtu.be/bUBF5gjdR9w?t=871
    https://youtu.be/HLnY-Gap-1M?t=496 - he pourrer 20cc into air chamber and 15cc into stanchion with DBC.
    OK

  94. #894
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    Ka81ua

    I haven't used the lubes you have other than molykote 55. Molykote 55 seems to be asbsorbed into the oil quite quickly. But:

    1. Lube the seals and piston head with a denser grease then Molykote 55. I've got much better results with RWC Superslick rather then Molykote 55.
    Any grease on the spring and rod under the piston head if you feel like it. But it essentially does nothing but potentially keep the noise level down and the rust away. There is no seal between the rod and the base plate (where the cir-clip is) anyway, so any lube on the rod is irrelevant.

    2. I still have original 2016 CR seals installed with probably 150hrs or more on them, which probably sacrilegious to some, but they don't leak so I don't worry about changing them. I don't use the foam ring, never have. I do have Molykote 55 packed into all the inside groves of the seals and the gap between the oil seal and dust wipers.
    But to be honest, I suspect that greasing the seals does nothing but help you reassemble the forks, it all comes down to the bath oil.
    3. I only kind of follow the videos for lubes (the reason the oil doesn't come out is the bottom bolts have been reinstalled sealing the lowers before he puts the oil in). Usually I reinstall the lowers onto the stanchions, invert and put 25ml 15-20 wt oil in the bolt hole on the air side and 30ml 5-7.5wt in the DBC side.

    1-2ml (because I don't need more progression on spring curve) 15-20wt oil in the air tube through the valve core just to lube the air piston seals. Supergliss or RWC air position oil are supposed to be the best for this.

    Hope this helped. I read somewhere the reason Marz originally said molykote 55 grease, is cause it didn't gunk up the DBC when it mixed with golden Spectro oil like other greases did.

  95. #895
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    New question here.

    Marzocchi 350 NCR
    fork scheme

    Question about #84 (5321504/P FIXING NUT SLV STA/ATA TOP SEAL) and #41(8032290/P CARTRIDGE DBC NCR REBOUND UNIT 160)


    So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?
    OK

  96. #896
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    thats just the oil passing through the rebound damper (100% normal)

  97. #897
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    what is normal???
    I CANNOT fit tight that nut.
    OK

  98. #898
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?
    Engage the lockout, push down on the fork lowers, and that should give you enough friction to stop the rod from spinning so you can tighten the nut.

  99. #899
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    max tire width

  100. #900
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    i was referring to the whistle sound

  101. #901
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    You meant whistle I was talking about?
    What tyre width to deal here?..
    OK

  102. #902
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    DBC
    When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo.
    Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?



    OK

  103. #903
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    yes

  104. #904
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    Uhmm.. Isnt it supposed to come out through the little hole on dbc tube??..
    OK

  105. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    DBC
    When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo.
    Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?




    You need to turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm. When you removed the compression nut it backs out. Just set the depth to 6mm like I said and reassemble.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd5MgKJ0muQ
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  106. #906
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    I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?

    Thank you.
    OK

  107. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?

    Thank you.

    Yes, doesn't matter what remote you use.
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  108. #908
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    Thank you very much.

    P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?
    OK

  109. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Thank you very much.

    P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?
    Your're experiencing it right now.
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  110. #910
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    uhmm.. didn't get it (maybe my bad english)..

    If I wouln't turne it down 6 mm - anyway it will be turned by compression nut, will it?!..
    OK

  111. #911
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    It will, but it won't be at the depth it needs to be. 6mm is where it needs to start to achieve the proper depth. That interface is your soft/firm compression setting.
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  112. #912
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    By the way, I pushed few times the rod of DBC and some small amout of oil got out from that place I noticed with red arrows.
    May I turn socket head almost out, so there will be some free space and I will be able to put in a little bit of oil (fork oil 7.5W)? Should I?
    OK

  113. #913
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    You can put it in the lower fork as it will get pulled into the DBC from the bottom of the DBC.
    2016 Transition Patrol
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  114. #914
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    Thank you very much for all advices! )
    OK

  115. #915
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    Sorry to revive this old thread, but has anyone had any luck using a different grease than Molykote o-ring grease for the seals on 2016ish forks? And, also, is Fox 7.5 oil okay to use on these forks?
    I got a 320 LCR and before installing I want to check oil levels and since I'm way too nervous for that I took it to the supposedly Fox certified LBS we have here. They said they could service it but they don't have the same grease and they use Fox oil.

  116. #916
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    I have a 350 ncr and used Slick Honey. When I got it last year I opened it up and changed the oil and grease. On the damper side just oil in the lower to satisfy the DBC cartridge and slick honey between the oil and dust seal. I did the same on the air chamber side seals. I used grease on the spring and spring seal head with a little oil in the lower leg to splash the bushings. I refreshed everything about a month ago. I had no issues with grease migrating from the seals to the DBC oil bath. On the spring side a little oil splashed the lower spring assemble and mixed with the grease with no ill effects whatsoever. I just sourced two quarts of Golden Spectro 7.5 on Amazon, that's the recommended cartridge oil. I don't know anything about Fox's offering in that weight. I use there 10wt red in my Float fork.
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  117. #917
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    Help someone please. I installed remote ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whz7qx0JuWE ) but it FULLY locks fork only when it pusshed little bit more than just ''to click''. I tried adjusting barrel but somehow it doesn't help. So, only when I push remote more the fork is bacaming rigid. Maybe I should play with the depth of low speed compression rod? Maybe more than 6 mm or less? I mean https://youtu.be/Bd5MgKJ0muQ?t=90
    OK

  118. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2 View Post
    Mine came with the remote, but no manual lever. Not that I use the lockout often, but if I did, Id probably like the lever (non-remote) more.
    Can somebody please tell the part number of Manual lock out lever for Marzocchi 350 ncr like in the video or link where to buy it?..
    OK

  119. #919
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    Maybe it's 8501766/P (replaces 5497001/P)
    KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
    or
    5497001/P (replaced by 8501766/P)
    KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
    ?
    OK

  120. #920
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    Hello,
    I am reviving this thread with a couple of questions regarding a 2017 350NCR
    Its new but has sticktion like I've never seen and when rebounding(doesn't really mater how fast) it has a pretty loud squeal/whistle.
    Its pretty hard to me to get to FOX/Marzocchi and local FOX dealers don't do warranty jobs for Marzo.
    Do you think a lower leg service would solve the sticktion and the whistle? Could both be related to lack of lubing? Thanks

  121. #921
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    Whistle - not a bug but a feature You can play with rebound and oil viscosity but it will not change a lot, so just live with it.

    About stiction, disassemble lowers and legs, clean seals, use some grease, I use Molykote 55. Anyway I'm sure stiction is more because of misaligned legs.
    https://youtu.be/gdP8zKVooWs?t=851
    OK

  122. #922
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    They stick, its what they do. Lower leg services and lubing seals helps but you have to stay up on them. I replaced mine with a Fox 36 RC2 with a MRP ramp control setup and never looked back. Its actually mocked up on my Dartmoor now but I have a old 36 I might run instead so I dont have to deal with it.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  123. #923
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    Once again, there IS an option to get rid of ctiction IF you have one! It's some work with legs!
    But, I'm sure there in your countries workshops just will not do that kind of work.
    OK

  124. #924
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    Ok guys, so I did pop out the fork and its dryer than the Sahara. Not even a droplet of oil got out. I think also that it whistles because how dry it is!
    I am glad I didn't installed it to try ro gave a brake in period before opening it.
    Mind you this is a fork from the FOX era as the the lower leg logos now say "A FOX company".
    Engineered in Italy and build in Taiwan ... this is going to be a rocky ride )
    I'll be posting back with results ...and bumpy rides

  125. #925
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    @ka81ua i have done some testing and my guess is that the sticktion is from the air piston.
    I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
    So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned.
    Its just the air piston being sticky!
    This is somehow confirmed in this post: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/t...-rebound-help/

    I am really curios how I could find the quad ring @robred is speaking about!

  126. #926
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    Is still anybody here?

    Maybe somebody have a photo of CR rebound needle? There are a lot of rebound piston photos on the web, but not a single one of the needle. It can be removed by pulling out the pin in the "window" on the piston and then pushed out with something long from underneath, where rebound knob goes.


    Quote Originally Posted by adyamg View Post
    I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
    So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned.
    Its just the air piston being sticky!
    When you unscrewed the lower bolt you released the tension from the piston so the piston was moving exactly up and down without lateral forces, as it is supposed to move. Also noticed this on my 350. And then I've got why it happens, it seems the holes on the lowers are not exactly inline with topcaps. Which means when the fork is assembled and the bolts tightened some lateral force is being applied to the piston, which results in a sticky feel. Also this somewhat confirms why cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.

  127. #927
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    So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?
    OK

  128. #928
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    My 2015 NCR was pretty noisy when the rebound damping was turned up a bit. It was also a bit sticky until I serviced the lowers and put a bunch of slick-olium in the bushings and dust wipers. After doing that the fork performed very nicely.

  129. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?
    Look at the pic. Perfectly fine RC3 damper and the piston for coil spring in 350 chassis. See how both the damper and the piston aren't centered. The same piston and damper sit perfectly centered and straight in 55 chassis. It is even a bit hard to screw rc3 topcap into the fork when it is fully compressed, but when the fork is fully extended everything seems fine. Which means that while the fork is compressing, more and more lateral forces are being applied to the damper and spring piston, which means sticktion.

    The post above where a guy said that fork seemed to be fine when he loosened the lower bolt, somewhat confirms that this issue is not only with my fork.

    And I probably wouldn't have noticed it if I haven't bought cheap 55rc3 ti with a broken spring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-not_aligned.jpg  


  130. #930
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.
    Iíve already swapped out the main seal on the air spring from the standard v type seal to a quad ring and the difference is massive,



    Are we talking about cutting some parts of head that is somewhere where I marked?
    Same question about swapping seals to quad-type - are they somewhere there where I marked?

    OK

  131. #931
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    From the thread on singletracks. Look how he cut the upper part of the piston:


    Why it helped?
    I'm not saying it is true for every 350, but it is in my case
    Marzocchi - Better late than never-misaligned.png

  132. #932
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    Yup, got it.
    So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
    I seecit's #50 - 8032287/P PISTON ROD AER ST 35/27.6/2/160/350 but it's nowhere in stores.. (
    OK

  133. #933
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    And, is it realy useful to swap seal rings from O to quad ?
    OK

  134. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Yup, got it.
    So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
    I never cut mine =) I just changed foam ring for an o-ring.
    Then I've bought cheap coil 350R with natural anodizing because that golden coating was fading away. Tried air/coil and different lowers/uppers combination and eventually sold for cheap older chassis with air spring and R damper. After some time I found super cheap 55 RC3 Ti with a broken ti spring and missing rebound knob, which should go on a hardtail once I'll find a hub for 20mm axle.
    So now I have 350 RC3 coil and 55cr with 130mm travel.

    Also! I wanted to try 55 nickel coated uppers with 350 lowers, but 160 55 stanchions are too short for 160 350 lowers.

  135. #935
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    Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?

    Thank you.
    OK

  136. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?

    Thank you.
    In my case o-ring instead of foam ring was to stop the fork from 'sucking up' oil into air chamber. Nothing to do with a sticktion.

  137. #937
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    I am happy to report that after a couple of months my 350NCR 2017(black anodizing) is running great. I actually prefer it to the Pike I use to have

    The fork is very linear so I will need to add some oil to add some progression to it.
    But after servicing it and adding FOX 20W Gold the fork its plush,

    The damper whistles ,,, but hey the Lyric RC2 is noisy to

  138. #938
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    New question here.

    https://shop.marzocchi.com/collectio...8-27-5in-black


    20x110 DH (non-Boost) axle



    What a heck?


    I always thought:
    100 usual (not boost)
    110 - boost

    same for rear
    135/142 usual
    148 boost
    OK

  139. #939
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    What tires can I fit to Mazrocchi 350 NCR 2016? For example 2.6 will work?
    OK

  140. #940
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    I havent tried 2.6 tires but I have a pair of DHF's waiting for when high alpine trails will be opend.
    I have no doubt they will fit.

  141. #941
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    you mean 2.5 DHF?
    Anyway, even 2.5 DHF and 2.5 Magic Mary can be different in real width. And especially 2.6 MM..
    OK

  142. #942
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    I have 2.6 DHF and actualy have a 2.6 Magic mary also but I have decided I will go DHF even if the Magic Mary seems better made at the same weight.

  143. #943
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    New question here.

    Thank you.


    By the way, is email [email protected] from https://www.marzocchi.com/contact.aspx?idC=62365 closed for everyone or it's just me? I send letter them but in response I get some technical report that message cannot be delievered, closed group, bla bla...
    OK

  144. #944
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    Pretty much yes ... I think is related to FOX also, same situation!

  145. #945
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    Last edited by ka81ua; 02-15-2020 at 09:05 AM.
    OK

  146. #946
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    Its a puzzle to me why would they fit this fork with a remote lockout in the first place ...

  147. #947
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    The KIT looks more ... "wow". I gues..
    ))
    OK

  148. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    https://shop.marzocchi.com/collectio...8-27-5in-black






    What a heck?


    I always thought:
    100 usual (not boost)
    110 - boost

    same for rear
    135/142 usual
    148 boost
    There are now two standards for 20x110mm front hubs & forks; the old 20x110mm that we all know and love and the new 20x110mm boost. The new version has wider hub flange spacing and also puts the disc brake rotor mount closer to the end of the axle, which means the disc brake caliper mount on the fork also needs to be moved outwards so that everything lines up properly.

  149. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    What tires can I fit to Mazrocchi 350 NCR 2016? For example 2.6 will work?
    You asked what tire fits
    This is a picture with a 2.6 DHF on 30 ID rim ... plenty of clearance!
    Mine is a 2017 model if that counts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-2019-05-19-09.48.22.jpg  


  150. #950
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    Good.
    Thanx.
    OK

  151. #951
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    I have a 2.8 Rekon on a 30mm rim in mine with no issues.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  152. #952
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    in yours what?
    OK

  153. #953
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    in his 350

  154. #954
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    Marzocchi 350 CR and NCR (2016)
    what exactly is the difference, please?
    OK

  155. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Marzocchi 350 CR and NCR (2016)
    what exactly is the difference, please?
    Entirely different damper. And I mean not jut the knobs and dials but the damper itself is different

  156. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Yup, got it.
    So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
    I seecit's #50 - 8032287/P PISTON ROD AER ST 35/27.6/2/160/350 but it's nowhere in stores.. (
    I posted about this a while back (or at least meant to). But I didnít cut down/resize the of the head like this.

    I just chamfered the top and bottom corners of the head with a Stanley knife. If I remember, Iíll get a photo next time have it open. The bulk of the piston head still remains so no worries about seals etc holding in place.

    My theory behind this:
    - Your fork is never straight up down (HA donít come in 90 deg) so as shown in the pics above one side of the air piston is always pushed against the chamber wall regardless of build quality and alignment.
    - Assuming youíve lubed the piston/chamber. When the fork is compressed the very sharp/square corner of the stock piston pushes against the chamber wall creating a heap of friction and scrapes the lube/oil away preventing it from reaching the seal.
    - By chamfering the corner (or resizing) it allows the lube to get down to the seal and the piston seal to rest against the chamber wall rather than the top/bottom corner of the seal head.
    - This allows the piston to move without scraping lube away again each time.

    I also add 2-3 20wt rockoil in the air chamber to lube the piston seal, 30-40ml 20wt rockoil in the air side lower, 5wt Motorex in damper and damper side lower, remove the foam ring between dust and lube seals and just pack the gap with molekote55 grease and apply some finish line stanchion lube every couple of weeks.

    I still have the stock 2015 seal kit installed and honestly, off the top I would put my 350 CR on par with any properly setup fork on the market (Pike, 34, Diamond all ridden recent years). Iíve almost got my brand new DVO Sapphire 34 to feel as good as my 350.

  157. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluman8 View Post
    remove the foam ring between dust and lube seals
    why?.
    OK

  158. #958
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    Enduro Fork Seals guys answer from an old bike rumor article : https://bikerumor.com/2013/12/04/tec...duro-bearings/

    5th question about foam rings.

    Itís debatable whether the foam ring does anything but collect dirt, dry out and potentially cause more stiction since it sits in a location between to seals where no fluid is supposed to get to anyway.

  159. #959
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    But this fork comes without foam rings from what I've seen .. so why you say remove them if they don't exist? Did you added foam rings to it?

    In my case, even thow the air chamber has that thin assembly grease inside .... I've added about 12-13ml of oil inside to make it more progressive. After that I've noticed the fork got more sensitive/plush.

  160. #960
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    Faulty memory. Itís been a long time since I first dropped the lowers on my fork. I just assumed that they were there and I ditched them in the first service.

  161. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by adyamg View Post
    But this fork comes without foam rings from what I've seen .
    Yup, in 350 NCR 2016 definitely NO foam rings from fatory. And no pace to fit hthem there.
    OK

  162. #962
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    350 cr 2014 - no foam rings
    350 r 2016 - no foam rings
    55 rc3 2010 - foam rings

    BUT with the original black marzocchi seals there is a lot of space between oil and dust seals to fit a foam ring, while with a SKF seals there is less space between oil and dust seals. And as far as I know SKF seals came stock on NCRs.

  163. #963
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    350 ncr 2017 .. no foam rings

  164. #964
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    320 LCR 2016 - no foam rings.

    Btw, just installed mine (I know that of above from other source).
    Comparing it to a brand new 2019 Recon RL, which feels super sensitive and plush, the 320 feels sticky and just not as smooth. Will ride it for a week to see if it improves.

    If it doesn't, I'm getting ready to check oil levels in the lowers first. Reading on marzocchi's support page, it says I need 10ml of SAE 7.5 on the Left side and 10ml SAE 90 on the Right.
    Wondering why they differ, but again I'm not really sure of anything here. Do I stick to those values? Most of the posts I find and read are about the 350 so hoping the 320 is about the same so you can help me.

  165. #965
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    If its similar to 350 ncr, the 320 is a semi open bath, so lower leg oil gets sucked into damper!

    If its sticky it probably needs lower leg oil adding and also air chamber oil adding.

  166. #966
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deartist7 View Post
    350 so hoping the 320 is about the same
    nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.
    OK

  167. #967
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.
    More like the basic way it works, because of the DBC.

    As far as plushness I'd like it to feel at least close to the Recon RL, which feels marvelous so far to say the least. The 320 feels full on meh, not even close in smoothness.

  168. #968
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    Do a lower leg service and add a few ml of oil in the air chamber.

  169. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.
    I disagree.

    I had experience with 320 LCRs from 2015 and 2016
    Considering 100-120 travel, both were supersmooth and active. I'd say they best xc forks, but may be waaaay too plush and a bit heavy for xc. Rock Shox short travel forks felt like garbage comparing to 320s.

    Also. LCR and NCR dampers are the same(difference in rebound knob and, obviously, size), but at the same time they are totally different from CR(LR) and C2R2 with only thing in common being that bleed hole.

    CR(LR) is quite different to NCR(LCR) and is a lot more simple to produce, which is why FOX now uses it in budget segment calling it GRIP, which was later copied by Rock Shox for their new Charger RC (Replacement for MoCo in budget segment). While GRIP2 is a bit modified C2R2 from 380s
    Last edited by graved1gger; 08-05-2019 at 08:59 AM.

  170. #970
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    Thanks. So in short, do a lower leg service, and add a few mms of oil to the air chamber.
    Do I stick to the values in the Marzocchi website? If the oil gets mixed, I don't understand why would it need SAE 90 on one side and 7.5w on the other. Reading in here most seem to stick to 7.5 and in fact, haven't read about anyone mentioning SAE 90.

  171. #971
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    Itís just easier to use 7.5wt in both Lowers because thatís whatís in the DBC damper. The damper cycles the bath oil in the lower leg so you definitely need to stick with 7.5wt in the damper side unless you rebleed the damper with something else.
    The air side doesnít matter itís just busching/seal lube oil. The heavier weight stuff just sticks better. I live and regularly ride in 40 degree C temps so I use 20wt.

    I also put 30-40ml in each leg so there is plenty to go around.

  172. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluman8 View Post
    The damper cycles the bath oil in the lower leg
    It doesn't cycle oil like an open bath damper. More precisely to say: "it may eventually suck up some oil from the lowers through the main seal on the rebound shaft".

    PS: Still need a photo of CR rebound needle.

  173. #973
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    Thanks! I will just get a 7.5 then. Will update when I do the lower leg service to see if it improves.

  174. #974
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    sorry for overthinking this, but going through as many information on the service of 2015-2016 forks (mostly 350 NCR), and comparing it to the 320 LCR info on marzocchi's website, I jsut realized that there's no main air tube on the exploded drawing for the 2016 27.5 320 LCR fork.
    https://www.marzocchi.com/support/fo...-761&idS=29492

    I'm following this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLnY-Gap-1M

    He takes the air tube out among other stuff. I'm wondering if the drawing is just wrong and I can just assume to also find an air tube on my 320 and follow nearly the same process as in the video. I won't mess with the oil seals though, I just want to check the lowers oil level and add a bit to the air side to aid progression, but I'm getting more and more confused. Also, he doesn't add any oil to the lowers on the air side, as a comment on the video pointed out, even though Marzocchi recommends doing so.
    I'm definitely doing so.

    It's my first time messing with an air fork so I want to be sure of everything.

  175. #975
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    here might be some mistakes on the marzocchi site as for example my 2017 350 NCR is in the 320 series so take that website for what it is.
    Anyways to do what you want, add oil for progression you just need to remove the valve core.
    And for lower leg its pretty straight forward.

    Also the oil 15-20cc of 7.5wt that he adds in the air tube I am guessing that goes down to lower leg.... but actually I don't know how it could go into lower leg looking at the clip.
    Your doubts are well founded but again for lower leg service and adding oil for progression you don't need to get to that point of disassembly.

  176. #976
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    Yeah, I guess so. Thanks! Ended up getting Motul 10w fork oil which is a bit thicker, should be interesting to see how it feels. Will take it apart this weekend.

  177. #977
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    So here's what I found on my 2016 320 LCR:

    I first removed the lower leg bolts, no oil came out so I messed around with it until I took the damper unit out from above and a bunch of oil came out from the left side (looking from above, damper side).
    Nothing ever came out from the air side. Took the lowers off, both dust seals look like they never met grease before, though there seems to be sort of a gentle touch of oil between the oil and dust seal. Both sides are the same. Still pretty much dry.

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20190807_192159.jpg

    No oil bath on the air side at all, but the inners seem to have some sort of greasy crap smeared on the walls.

    Damper side:
    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20190807_192830.jpg

    Air side:
    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20190807_192837.jpg

    I'm scratching my head as for what to do now. I expected to find grease on the dust seals and was planning just to clean it a little and leave it like that until I bought appropiate grease for the job. All I have is Maxima Waterproof grease that I use for bearings and some cheap multipurpose lithium grease that I use on old forks. Should I just oil the area and re assemble along with the bath oil that I was going to replace anyway? Looks like I can fit a couple of foam rings in there, but idk if that's how it's supposed to work since it's supposed to have molykote 55 in that area.

  178. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deartist7 View Post
    He takes the air tube out among other stuff. I'm wondering if the drawing is just wrong and I can just assume to also find an air tube on my 320 and follow nearly the same process as in the video. I won't mess with the oil seals though, I just want to check the lowers oil level and add a bit to the air side to aid progression, but I'm getting more and more confused. Also, he doesn't add any oil to the lowers on the air side, as a comment on the video pointed out, even though Marzocchi recommends doing so.
    I'm definitely doing so.

    It's my first time messing with an air fork so I want to be sure of everything.
    350 uses separate air tube as a positive air chamber
    320 uses the stanchion as its air chamber, like most of the other air forks.


    Quote Originally Posted by Deartist7 View Post
    I'm following this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLnY-Gap-1M
    I love such videos, they called it full service, yet they never showed how to service the dapmer. And you are in a world of pain if you took that damper apart for the first time.

  179. #979
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    It ain't rocket science. If you just removed the lowers, then clean them thoroughly, then slightly put the lowers onto the uppers(holding the fork upside down) and add 5-10ml of oil through the bottom holes in each leg.
    A bit of Molykote 55 on the lower part of that seals(the part which actually hold oil in) wouldn't hurt.
    To add progression you need to add oil into the oil chamber, best way to do it is to unscrew valve core, add oil, screw the core back.

  180. #980
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    In my 350 I had similar situation, no oil in the air leg and just a smudge on the damper side. Same like yours the fork was full of grease that has not a lot of sense in the sliding areas as it gets pushed away so its not ensuring lubing anymore so its more for assembly purposes I would say.
    Adding oil to the air chamber its a must(even if this to has a lot of grease inside) as it instantly makes the fork more plush(the grease is not staying in the sliding area and gets pushed away). So even if you don't need progression just add a few ml of oil in the air chamber.

  181. #981
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deartist7 View Post
    I'm scratching my head as for what to do now. I expected to find grease on the dust seals and was planning just to clean it a little and leave it like that until I bought appropiate grease for the job. All I have is Maxima Waterproof grease that I use for bearings and some cheap multipurpose lithium grease that I use on old forks. Should I just oil the area and re assemble along with the bath oil that I was going to replace anyway? Looks like I can fit a couple of foam rings in there, but idk if that's how it's supposed to work since it's supposed to have molykote 55 in that area.
    I read/watched somewhere the reason that Marz specíd molykote55 is that it doesnít mix with Golden Specto Oil and turn into nasty gunk. Since your using Motul which is semi synthetic as well the grease youíve got might gunk up or might not.

    But if it was me Iíd probably just use the grease yourĎve got for now and just re-do the lower service in couple weeks time when youríve got some proper seal grease.

  182. #982
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    Missed that Motul part. For the lowers it doesn't matter that much, but for the damper (if you are going to take it apart) 10wt Motul might be too heavy and the fork might be too harsh. Also, purely subjective opinion, their "Expert" line sucks, while "Factory line" is a lot better.

  183. #983
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    For lowers, damper leg is very important to have right oil! As damper is semi-open and "takes" oil from the lower leg.

  184. #984
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  185. #985
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluman8 View Post
    we don't ride at 40C temperatures and VI is different.
    there is a calculator to calculate viscosity at "real" temperatures.
    https://widman.biz/Seleccion/operacional.php

  186. #986
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    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    we don't ride at 40C temperatures and VI is different.
    Fair enough. But itís fluid temperature not air temperature and its a relative comparison of fluids.
    I.e. Can ďbla bla blaĒ be used instead of ďbla bla blaĒ?

  187. #987
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    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    350 uses separate air tube as a positive air chamber
    320 uses the stanchion as its air chamber, like most of the other air forks.



    I love such videos, they called it full service, yet they never showed how to service the dapmer. And you are in a world of pain if you took that damper apart for the first time.
    Good lord it was a world of pain.

  188. #988
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    I ended up messing it up a bit but managed to get it back on track. I accidentally compressed the DBC rod when it was out of the fork, oil spilled out everywhere and I ended up with a rod full of air and old oil. Decided to ignore it and just pump the air out when the fork was assembled and release it with a zip tie. Made sense to me at the time.

    For the seals, I cleaned them and added a dab of oil to each, and tried to add a little on the gap between the oil and dust seal, which of course inmediately fell down to the lower legs.
    I added 15ml (marz says 10ml) to the air side and 20ml to the dbc side (marz says 10 but I figured it might need more cause of the spillage since the DBC sucks oil out of the lower leg).
    Put everything back together, and the fork was compressing in a bit nicer and smoother way but still with a bit of stiction. And the lock out wasn't working.
    So here's what I did: I figured the damper didn't have enough oil yet, so I took the little screw in the middle of the compression nut (part 95 on marz's drawing I think), pulled it out, and added 5-10 ml more oil in there. Put it back together, compressed the fork a few times, and the lockout sort of came alive, but not quite.
    Repeated the process and the lockout was working perfectly, even firmer than before. LSC was also fully working, same with rebound. But still, there's sort of an initial stiction that feels like it should have gonew away, and the fork is suspiciously smoother on the first 20-30mm of travel, then hardens up a bit, and then smooth again. Could this be excess oil causing hydraulic lock symptoms?
    I took a zip tie to the damper side seal and a little hiss of air came out, but nothing changed.

    Anyway, I didn't take the air chamber out since I had the wrong socket size, and I want to add a few ml of oil like adyamg suggested. Maybe there's a lack of lubrication in there.

    But now that I know how to take it apart, and that the DBC damper is fully functional again, I might just repeat the process, taking special care to not compress the damn thing, and use the appropiate oil levels this time. I'd do that on the weekend, so I'll still ride it a couple days to see if anything changed...

    And btw, the Motul oil is factory line, and it says 100% synthetic on the bottle. It's quite bit thicker than the 7.5 Golden Spectro at 36 cst @40 versus 26.10 cst @40 on the Spectro. I'm okay with a slightly firmer fork, as long as it works smoothly.
    The 5w Motul would have been perfect at 24 cst but no moto shop had it in stock. The other option was some dodgy Yamalube 10w.

  189. #989
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    Alright. So all I found is SRAM butter on a local bike shop.

    As far as I understand, the oil must be compatible with the grease because it mixes and will affect the damper. Molykote 55 is compatible with Golden Spectro 7.5, so that's what Marz used.
    Since I'm using Motul 10w, i should look for something that doesn't react too much for the grease right?. Still have a hard time understanding how the grease could get past the oil seal to mix with the damper and bath oil. Maybe if it gets completely washed down...

  190. #990
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    If in doubt and you dont have the right substances I would better leave the grease out!

  191. #991
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    Chiming in again. I'm having a few doubts about the travel on my 320 LCR.

    First of all, I decided to go oil-only for a few weeks to see how it behaves. Haven't done any off road riding, just a bunch of commuting, but so far I don't think the oil weight is gonna be a problem. The lockout and LSC have been working perfectly. However, I found a light dab of oil sort of coming out of the DBC compression knob after a long ride. I'll keep an eye on it for now, fork still works the same.

    About the travel, I can measure about 126 mm on the stanchions when completely un-compressed. I have been running around 20% sag with around 55 psi (Marz says 60-70 for my weight) but my methods have been sort of incosistent since I feel the stiction makes it harder to get a good measurement.
    Anyway, at 55 psi it feels pretty soft and comfy, so I think it's about right. Still, I can't seem to get full travel even if I purposely beast-slam the front wheel repeatedly against the ground with all my weight on it, there's always a 20 or 30mm of travel left.

    I took all the air out, and in fact, I can't compress the fork past that mark. Is this normal?

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20190823_092318.jpg

    I remember that when I did the first service, there's was some sort of black thing on the bottom of the air side rod.

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-marz-travel.png

    Is this some sort of bumper stop?
    I can't quite identify it on the Marz support site, but it might be the part just above the 52, which wouldn't make sense there is no 52 part under it (cir clip I think).
    You can see the cir clip marked by the red arrow.

    https://www.marzocchi.com/support/fo...-761&idS=29492

    So now the black thing looks similar to the TOP PART of the 65 part, which is in fact a travel spacer. But as far as I remember (at least from the 350 NCR video), travel spacers don't go there.

    So what the hell? Should I take it out? Seems like it would bottom out stanchion against bottom leg directly if it wasn't there, but again, I'm not getting full travel either. I'll take it apart again next week, still trying to get hold of some proper grease so I'll wait a little more.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-20190807_192050.jpg  

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-marz-travel.png  


  192. #992
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    350 NCR compression dial stuck

    Hi guys,
    Seems I am having some problems with my Marzocchi 350 NCR 2017 model.
    All of a sudden the compression dial stopped working. Until few days ago it was so smooth I could rotate it with just one finger.
    Now it just wont budge ... so I took off the golden dial to see maybe something obvious has happened but nothing seems out of place so I am guessing its something with the internals of the DBC cartridge?

    Has anyone encountered this? Any ideas of what could it be?

  193. #993
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    I have solved the problem last evening.
    The culprit is 8501763/P CARTRIDGE DBC LCR/NCR COMPRESSION NUT. The little(very little) dented ball inside has somehow rotated or got out of its place locking the little thingy in the compression nut.
    I have reassembled it, used a bit of grease and for now everything is back to normal.
    For anyone facing this issue, there is a small clip that holds the little assembly in one piece. I used some tweezers to take it apart, see attached image.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-2019-10-15-21.13.29.jpg  


  194. #994
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    320 LCR. The learning experience goes on

    After deciding to ignore the travel issue, I kept riding the fork on oil only (around 20ml each leg) for several months, servicing it twice, but never turning the bike upside down to re-lube the bushings and stuff because I forgot...and I think I paid the price.

    See, a couple weeks ago I took it apart a third time and noticed some nasty wear and scoring on both stanchions, specifically on the area where the bushings go (I keep calling them bushings, not even sure now). I don't know if this has to do with the stanchion scoring issues on the 350. I don't understand how I didn't notice this before.



    Also, after staring for hours at the diagrams and my fork lowers my last couple brain cells finally noticed that my fork has no oil seals. It's just a single dust seal and then the bushings. Are..are those bushings, right?




    I don't know how this affects the function of the fork but since It seems to be suffering from under lubrication I decided to use SRAM Butter on the dust seals.
    My question is, since it doesn't have oil seals, in what sort of danger is my fork of gumming up the grease with the oil? All of the threads usually talk about the 350 NCR which does have Oil Seals and will do a better job on separating things. Not so much with mine.

    Or should I keep with the oil only theme, squeeze some foam rings in the gap, and religiously turn the bike upside down before every ride to aid lubrication?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-20200508_174537.jpg  

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20200508_172151.jpg  

    Marzocchi - Better late than never-20200508_172134.jpg  


  195. #995
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    Or should I, perhaps, order the Seal Kit here: https://bicyclesuspension.de/product...55accb81&_ss=r

    Which does include oil seals...
    and see if they fit on the gap?

    Which I don't think they will since the gap is a little less than 1.5 cm.

  196. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deartist7 View Post
    My question is, since it doesn't have oil seals, in what sort of danger is my fork of gumming up the grease with the oil?
    1. It is combined oil/dust seal. More so, those NOK seals seems to be quite good by themselves. 2015 and 2016 320 LCRs had combined oil/dust seals like any other fork manufacturer out there. If you look closely you'll see the inner lip there which keeps the oil in. 2014 320 LCR/LR still had separate oil and dust seals.

    2. That Espresso and Gold Race coatings were a total shit. I've seen a lot of 350s, 053 shock, 320s with this coatings going from bad to worse. It wears down no matter what you do. Also Marzocchi was a bit careless with bushings and sometimes they were too tight. Combine that with a shitty anodizing... well you can see the results.


    3. Slick Honey would help but I'd say you apply it only to an upper bushing and the inner lips of the seals.

  197. #997
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    Will try that, thanks.

    Yeah, if that's so what a shame, I expected a lot less trouble from this fork, but I guess that for my first "proper" fork and at the price I got it, it's still a good experience.

  198. #998
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    The lower scoring was caused by the lower leg bushing and if you say you had 20ml of oil, its not the lack of lubrication that caused the problem,it is the lower bushing that is to tight.

    For this fork it was recommended to use molykote 55 as it didint mixed up with oil as slick honey did.

    Dont expect wonders and I wouldnt invest to much money in whatever bushings or stuff ... use it at it is.

  199. #999
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    Oh it's actually both bushings that are too tight then, there is also wear on the upper side of the stanchions but not as noticeable as the lower side.

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