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  1. #901
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    You meant whistle I was talking about?
    What tyre width to deal here?..
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  2. #902
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    DBC
    When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo.
    Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?



    OK

  3. #903
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    yes

  4. #904
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    Uhmm.. Isnt it supposed to come out through the little hole on dbc tube??..
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  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    DBC
    When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo.
    Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?




    You need to turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm. When you removed the compression nut it backs out. Just set the depth to 6mm like I said and reassemble.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd5MgKJ0muQ
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  6. #906
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    I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?

    Thank you.
    OK

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?

    Thank you.

    Yes, doesn't matter what remote you use.
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  8. #908
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    Thank you very much.

    P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?
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  9. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Thank you very much.

    P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?
    Your're experiencing it right now.
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  10. #910
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    uhmm.. didn't get it (maybe my bad english)..

    If I wouln't turne it down 6 mm - anyway it will be turned by compression nut, will it?!..
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  11. #911
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    It will, but it won't be at the depth it needs to be. 6mm is where it needs to start to achieve the proper depth. That interface is your soft/firm compression setting.
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  12. #912
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    By the way, I pushed few times the rod of DBC and some small amout of oil got out from that place I noticed with red arrows.
    May I turn socket head almost out, so there will be some free space and I will be able to put in a little bit of oil (fork oil 7.5W)? Should I?
    OK

  13. #913
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    You can put it in the lower fork as it will get pulled into the DBC from the bottom of the DBC.
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  14. #914
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    Thank you very much for all advices! )
    OK

  15. #915
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    Sorry to revive this old thread, but has anyone had any luck using a different grease than Molykote o-ring grease for the seals on 2016ish forks? And, also, is Fox 7.5 oil okay to use on these forks?
    I got a 320 LCR and before installing I want to check oil levels and since I'm way too nervous for that I took it to the supposedly Fox certified LBS we have here. They said they could service it but they don't have the same grease and they use Fox oil.

  16. #916
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    I have a 350 ncr and used Slick Honey. When I got it last year I opened it up and changed the oil and grease. On the damper side just oil in the lower to satisfy the DBC cartridge and slick honey between the oil and dust seal. I did the same on the air chamber side seals. I used grease on the spring and spring seal head with a little oil in the lower leg to splash the bushings. I refreshed everything about a month ago. I had no issues with grease migrating from the seals to the DBC oil bath. On the spring side a little oil splashed the lower spring assemble and mixed with the grease with no ill effects whatsoever. I just sourced two quarts of Golden Spectro 7.5 on Amazon, that's the recommended cartridge oil. I don't know anything about Fox's offering in that weight. I use there 10wt red in my Float fork.
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  17. #917
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    Help someone please. I installed remote ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whz7qx0JuWE ) but it FULLY locks fork only when it pusshed little bit more than just ''to click''. I tried adjusting barrel but somehow it doesn't help. So, only when I push remote more the fork is bacaming rigid. Maybe I should play with the depth of low speed compression rod? Maybe more than 6 mm or less? I mean https://youtu.be/Bd5MgKJ0muQ?t=90
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  18. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2 View Post
    Mine came with the remote, but no manual lever. Not that I use the lockout often, but if I did, Id probably like the lever (non-remote) more.
    Can somebody please tell the part number of Manual lock out lever for Marzocchi 350 ncr like in the video or link where to buy it?..
    OK

  19. #919
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    Maybe it's 8501766/P (replaces 5497001/P)
    KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
    or
    5497001/P (replaced by 8501766/P)
    KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
    ?
    OK

  20. #920
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    Hello,
    I am reviving this thread with a couple of questions regarding a 2017 350NCR
    Its new but has sticktion like I've never seen and when rebounding(doesn't really mater how fast) it has a pretty loud squeal/whistle.
    Its pretty hard to me to get to FOX/Marzocchi and local FOX dealers don't do warranty jobs for Marzo.
    Do you think a lower leg service would solve the sticktion and the whistle? Could both be related to lack of lubing? Thanks

  21. #921
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    Whistle - not a bug but a feature You can play with rebound and oil viscosity but it will not change a lot, so just live with it.

    About stiction, disassemble lowers and legs, clean seals, use some grease, I use Molykote 55. Anyway I'm sure stiction is more because of misaligned legs.
    https://youtu.be/gdP8zKVooWs?t=851
    OK

  22. #922
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    They stick, its what they do. Lower leg services and lubing seals helps but you have to stay up on them. I replaced mine with a Fox 36 RC2 with a MRP ramp control setup and never looked back. Its actually mocked up on my Dartmoor now but I have a old 36 I might run instead so I dont have to deal with it.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  23. #923
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    Once again, there IS an option to get rid of ctiction IF you have one! It's some work with legs!
    But, I'm sure there in your countries workshops just will not do that kind of work.
    OK

  24. #924
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    Ok guys, so I did pop out the fork and its dryer than the Sahara. Not even a droplet of oil got out. I think also that it whistles because how dry it is!
    I am glad I didn't installed it to try ro gave a brake in period before opening it.
    Mind you this is a fork from the FOX era as the the lower leg logos now say "A FOX company".
    Engineered in Italy and build in Taiwan ... this is going to be a rocky ride )
    I'll be posting back with results ...and bumpy rides

  25. #925
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    @ka81ua i have done some testing and my guess is that the sticktion is from the air piston.
    I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
    So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned.
    Its just the air piston being sticky!
    This is somehow confirmed in this post: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/t...-rebound-help/

    I am really curios how I could find the quad ring @robred is speaking about!

  26. #926
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    Is still anybody here?

    Maybe somebody have a photo of CR rebound needle? There are a lot of rebound piston photos on the web, but not a single one of the needle. It can be removed by pulling out the pin in the "window" on the piston and then pushed out with something long from underneath, where rebound knob goes.


    Quote Originally Posted by adyamg View Post
    I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
    So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned.
    Its just the air piston being sticky!
    When you unscrewed the lower bolt you released the tension from the piston so the piston was moving exactly up and down without lateral forces, as it is supposed to move. Also noticed this on my 350. And then I've got why it happens, it seems the holes on the lowers are not exactly inline with topcaps. Which means when the fork is assembled and the bolts tightened some lateral force is being applied to the piston, which results in a sticky feel. Also this somewhat confirms why cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.

  27. #927
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    So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?
    OK

  28. #928
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    My 2015 NCR was pretty noisy when the rebound damping was turned up a bit. It was also a bit sticky until I serviced the lowers and put a bunch of slick-olium in the bushings and dust wipers. After doing that the fork performed very nicely.

  29. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?
    Look at the pic. Perfectly fine RC3 damper and the piston for coil spring in 350 chassis. See how both the damper and the piston aren't centered. The same piston and damper sit perfectly centered and straight in 55 chassis. It is even a bit hard to screw rc3 topcap into the fork when it is fully compressed, but when the fork is fully extended everything seems fine. Which means that while the fork is compressing, more and more lateral forces are being applied to the damper and spring piston, which means sticktion.

    The post above where a guy said that fork seemed to be fine when he loosened the lower bolt, somewhat confirms that this issue is not only with my fork.

    And I probably wouldn't have noticed it if I haven't bought cheap 55rc3 ti with a broken spring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marzocchi - Better late than never-not_aligned.jpg  


  30. #930
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by graved1gger View Post
    cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.
    Iíve already swapped out the main seal on the air spring from the standard v type seal to a quad ring and the difference is massive,



    Are we talking about cutting some parts of head that is somewhere where I marked?
    Same question about swapping seals to quad-type - are they somewhere there where I marked?

    OK

  31. #931
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    From the thread on singletracks. Look how he cut the upper part of the piston:


    Why it helped?
    I'm not saying it is true for every 350, but it is in my case
    Marzocchi - Better late than never-misaligned.png

  32. #932
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    Yup, got it.
    So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
    I seecit's #50 - 8032287/P PISTON ROD AER ST 35/27.6/2/160/350 but it's nowhere in stores.. (
    OK

  33. #933
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    And, is it realy useful to swap seal rings from O to quad ?
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  34. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Yup, got it.
    So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
    I never cut mine =) I just changed foam ring for an o-ring.
    Then I've bought cheap coil 350R with natural anodizing because that golden coating was fading away. Tried air/coil and different lowers/uppers combination and eventually sold for cheap older chassis with air spring and R damper. After some time I found super cheap 55 RC3 Ti with a broken ti spring and missing rebound knob, which should go on a hardtail once I'll find a hub for 20mm axle.
    So now I have 350 RC3 coil and 55cr with 130mm travel.

    Also! I wanted to try 55 nickel coated uppers with 350 lowers, but 160 55 stanchions are too short for 160 350 lowers.

  35. #935
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    Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?

    Thank you.
    OK

  36. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?

    Thank you.
    In my case o-ring instead of foam ring was to stop the fork from 'sucking up' oil into air chamber. Nothing to do with a sticktion.

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