Giant Trance 2 vs GT Force Comp- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Giant Trance 2 vs GT Force Comp

    So, i was looking at the GT force comp, and thinking it was a good buy, but am also looking now at the Giant trance 2.

    GT works out about $200 less, so, not too much difference. Main differences spec wise to me are:

    - fox on the giant, rockshox on the gt
    - slx 12 on the giant (which i would keep as spare) and sram NX on the gt (which i would sell)

    I think the frames are for all that it matters to me, about "the same" (even the same colour). I guess the real question is, is the fox 34 rythym / float DPS better or worse, or the same as the rockshox lyric / select +.

    I've only used rockshox (rebas and sid) in the last million years, and I've been happy. Ive been told fox forks aren't as strong or stiff, but I don't know if that relates to the 34 - I think that comment was on a cheaper fork.

    Obviously were locked down here, so i cant go see them in person or ride them right now, so I just need some thoughts.

  2. #2
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    Should include the trance 3 in here it seems. $200 cheaper than the fury, has the same rear shock. Comes with a 35 gold and sram sx eagle.

    So I would be basically keeping only the frame. doesn't seem like good values.

    Hmmm

  3. #3
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    Well, my question got answered by an e-mail from Canadian tire... 25% off the GT Fforce today only. :P ($2500cdn total, or about $1800us).

    I guess I have a GT force to build up now.

  4. #4
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    I think the rhythm/DPS is significantly worse than the lyrik/plus. By a huge margin!

    GT Cycles Force 29 2020 - Linkage Design

    I'm unsure if the 29er linkage is the same as the 27.5... but the new force is lacking anti squat pretty much across the board in all gears. Thats going to be a mushy pedaler. You can work around this with a firmer shock tune. Depending on how/where you ride, this could be a big deal.

    I have a soft spot for GT as I ran them for racing for many years as a kid, but I think they dropped the ball with the forces linkage. Its competition these days pedals better.

  5. #5
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    Well, its on its way, sooo…
    The whole active / anti squat thing often leaves me wondering what people want in a bike. I guess everything at once as people seem to whine about having both.

    My GT STS(LTS) was an "active" bike, kinda like the force I guess in a lot of ways. I don't think pedal mush bothered me - granted the STS only had 110mm travel, not 150 like the force. I tend to pedal pretty smooth and mostly stay in the saddle.

    In any case, it will be fun. I'm a bit curious on the weight of the frame, couldn't fins any specifics. I am transferring most of the parts form my GT pantera to it, so it should wind up about 25lbs, plus the frame weight difference - pantera is 5.1lbs. So maybe 27ish?

  6. #6
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    Bike arrived. Stripped it down. Frame is heavier than I was guessing, but it is a GT after all :P

    9.2 lbs (medium) pantera frame was 4.9-5.1lbs (ish, it overloads my "5lb" scale, but reads 4.85 on my hanging scale, so, one is wrong).

    Lyrik is 4.2 lbs. old Reba was 3.5lbs.

    Thomson dropper is .7lbs heavier with cable and shifter than old Thomson post.

    So, if the Pantera was 24.2lbs, no dropper, sll else being equal then, the force will be between 29.5 and 30lbs.

    "portly", compared to my other bikes I guess, but im unlikely to really notice 5lbs on a bike like this.

    Now I need to build it back up!

  7. #7
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    Half assembled (I need a few things in the mail, brake rotors, and hub adapter, seat post shim)

    Things I notice about this bike so far:

    Tire clearance is massive. My rock razor 2.35 (measure over 2.4) have at minimum 15mm on all sides in both the frame and fork. You could very easily fit 27.5 x 2.6, and 2.8 if t wasn't ultra muddy. 3.0 might be too tight. You could also fit 29x2.35 easily with fork clearance being only a little tight at the top.

    Rear brake routing is dumb. hose runs under the shock mount, which means you have to remove the hose to take the set off. maybe I can reroute it.


    I'm entertained anyway

  8. #8
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    Nice. Fun project!

  9. #9
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    Merci

    So, I think I have a strategy for wheels. I have the hope pro 4 / DT 25mm rim / rock razor 2.35 tires from my gt pantera, which is a plus bike.

    I will buy or build new wheels (not sure which, maybe hope fortus 35) with nobby nic 2.8 tires. I can then swap these between the bikes as desired. They are both shimano 12 speed and the hope can covert from boost through axle to boost QR in a few seconds. I can reduce to 2.6 later if I find 2.8 too big.
    Last edited by smashysmashy; 04-17-2020 at 10:15 AM.

  10. #10
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    Ordered the last parts for this bike (I "hope")

    Got some E4 brakes, a hope headset, and a raceface 30t 12 speed ring (got tired of waiting for blackspire)

    so, the specs are basically:

    GT force comp frame, deluxe selct + shock
    Lyrik select fork 160mm
    Hope headset and top cap
    Thomson x4 70mm stem (for now)
    Race Face next bar (for now, its on the narrow side so it may change)
    Race Face grips
    Hope bar plugs
    Hope bottom bracket
    Race Face turbine crank
    Race Face 30t shimano 12 chainring
    XT 8100 rear derailleur
    XT 8100 shifter
    XT 780 front shifter for dropper
    Hope E4 brakes
    Shimano RT76 180mm 6 bolt rotors
    Thomson covert dropper (until it breaks again - probably about 5 rides)
    Hope seat clamp
    Flite titanium saddle
    Blackspire 420 pedals

    Wheelse1 1:
    DT XM421 rims
    Hope pro 4 hubs
    Sapim laser spokes with polyax nipples
    Rock razor 2.35 tires
    Xt 8100 10-51 cassette

    Wheelset 2 (these belong to my GT pantera):
    Race Face AR30 rims
    Hope pro 4 straight pull hubs
    DT comp race spokes with polyax nipples
    Nobbly Nic 2.8 tires (for now, might downsize them tp 2.6)
    SLX 7100 10-51 cassette

    30.3lbs with wheel set 1.
    Fun!

  11. #11
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    Nice list of hardware! How does the shifter work for a dropper? Do you have to modify it? Do you prefer that to a dedicated dropper lever like a Wolf? Figured all those nice components and then a shifter to run the dropper...

  12. #12
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    The shifter to run the dropper is a definite upgrade over most of those levers... especially the super crappy almost impossible to push thomson lever. You get massive amounts of leverage. Plus it was free.

    For the moment, the shifter is not modified. if you push the lever about 3/4 the way, the post actuates. if you click it, you can leave it actuated which on occasion is useful.

    Shimano 10 speed fronts are 2/3 switchable as well, which means you can make the dropper run in 2x mode, and switch to 3x mode to slack the cable for installation - which is very useful for this Thomson.

    If I wasn't using the Thomson post, maybe id be content with the stock lever, but this particular post is troublesome. It has a little hydraulic piston that inverts the cable pull to a push. When you first press the lever after the post hasn't been used in some hours, the piston basically binds up. After the first pull, its fine for many minutes / hours. On occasion it can bind up so much the cable snaps. The downside to using the shifter is that I had to make a custom cable stop on the post side. I have some ideas on how to eliminate that though, by splitting the cable in half and making a larger stronger cable clamp with a sleeve (metal tube) around it. This will make it easier to deal with too because the post can be inside the frame while you adjust the cable tension.

    One day, there will be droppers that don't suck. But that's not today :P

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