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  1. #1
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    What bike is this? (solved)



    Got this from a family friend cleaning out their basement. It was their sonís circa 1999-2000. Also got a Santa Cruz Super 8 in bad condition.


    This one has no markings other than the forks. Looks close to a Specialized Stumpjumper, but what year and exact model? Could it be a Klein Pulse or Attitude but different forks. Canít really tell.


    I made a list of its parts:


    Marzocchi Bomber Z3 Forks
    Specialized Comp Team Control 26x2.0 tires
    Raceface 94 44T 9 speed crankset 3x
    Shimano Deore front derailleur
    Shimano XTR rear derailleur
    Ringle front hub
    DT Hugi rear hub
    Shimano XTR front/rear brakes
    Thomson Elite seatpost
    Selle Flight seat
    Raceface Icon stem
    Easton EA50 Monkeybar handlebars
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What bike is this? (solved)-green-bike.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Not a klein. Looks like a steel frame. Any information under the bottom bracket? The geometry and lack of disk tabs suggest early 2000's, and those are nice components, maybe a custom steel frame? Check frame with magnet to verify if its steel.

  3. #3
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    Looks like a nice retro-MTB in need of some TLC.

    Looks like steel? The seat tube is unusual near the top. Looks like a muff in the area where other tubes join it. Doesn't look like a Klein or Specialized to me.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  4. #4
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    Yes it is a steel frame. No markings on the BB except for the serial number.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What bike is this? (solved)-img_8106.jpg  


  5. #5
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    Post pictures of frame details. Head tube, drop outs etc.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by wesMAmyke View Post
    Post pictures of frame details. Head tube, drop outs etc.
    Yes, also seat post clamp area, cable stops, seatpost diameter.

    All are good hints.

    The welds don't look especially sexy, but steel is real
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  7. #7
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    Yeah definately not a Klein, not really sure how you could think it was, but anyhoo. There is more markings under the shimano cable guide on the bottom bracket...
    Looks to me like something around 1997-2000ish.

    You could also ask in the VRC section, they might know more.
    All the gear and no idea.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik_git View Post
    Yeah definately not a Klein, not really sure how you could think it was....
    The color might not be out of place on a Klein. But then, there were many bikes with that kind of color in the '90s. The frame is just totally not-Klein.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  9. #9
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    What bike is this? (solved)-img_8177.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8178.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8179.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8180.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8181.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8182.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8183.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8184.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8185.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8186.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8187.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8188.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8189.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8190.jpg

  10. #10
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    Interesting dropouts, and nice component selection. It looks a bit like a vintage ted Wojcik, but the serial number, dropouts, and the welds look wrong.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retr...ik-660032.html
    I donít know why but I really want to know who made that frame.

  11. #11
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    Rocky Mountain Fusion or Blizzard

  12. #12
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    Very close, but looks like the seat stays for all of these are higher than the top tube where they meet at the seat tube. Mine is perfectly in line

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt4x4 View Post
    Rocky Mountain Fusion or Blizzard
    I was gonna go hammer, colour seems familliar, but yeah, it's almost definitely a rocky mountain by the seat tube "topper". The headset is upside down. Poor bike.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeA0589 View Post
    Very close, but looks like the seat stays for all of these are higher than the top tube where they meet at the seat tube. Mine is perfectly in line
    Hmmm, it depends on the year, some are in line, many are high.

  15. #15
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    Any idea what year? Their website has <1999 and then a gap until 2009+

  16. #16
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    I got nothing. the seat mast cap looks like rocky, but they usually have the seal clamp bolt on the front side. serial starting with T is rocky.

    Nothing else to go on here really. It would probably be 92-96 range regardless of brand.

  17. #17
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    I was saying post 97 as there isn't a brake cable stop (which doesn't mean it is, just usually) and all the parts are ~97 or newer (again doesn't make it so, but puts in the probably)
    All the gear and no idea.

  18. #18
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    I wanna say it's something Canadian. The reinforced HT rings and ST sleeve look like a Off Road Toad but the drop outs are wrong. Then there's the upside down RF Real Seal head set and chainrings. Stem is a Icon branded Trek item. Grips look like they're off a Stars and Stripes Kona A Ha cruiser from '97.
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  19. #19
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    It's a safe bet no parts are original.

    I still got nothing. looked at norcos, konas, cove, brodies, dekerf, etc. I still think its a rocky, but I can't find a match.

  20. #20
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    I'm sure your'e gonna find out, so please let the forum know when you do and how you did it.
    Nice looking lines on that bike.
    Just call me Ray

  21. #21
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    Thanks! I appreciate everyone's help with this. Not really sure how I want to pursue this. I was hoping to figure out what bike it was so that I can see what parts and sizes it could take.

    I'm relatively new to bike building and maintenance, so what items should I definitely get rid of and which should I definitely keep?

    I was considering making this into a gravel bike, but now I'm thinking it could be my son's next MTB (currently 8yo and riding a toy on the trails - he's ready for a front suspension upgrade at least) Might be too big for him for now.

  22. #22
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    would make a kick ass gravel bike.

    Main things to know about it are:
    - no disc brakes, obviously
    - 1-1/8" steerer will limit modern fork choices
    - 135mm quick release drop outs
    - BSA threaded bottom bracket

    Its not really any different than a new bike except the lack of discs.

    parts wise, you have a pretty big score of vintage parts.

    XTR rear - gold mine. partly cause its valuable, and partly cause it will work with 8, 9, and 10 speed road shifters (except tiagra/grx)

    Headset is race face, and if the bearings are good it's a keeper - keep it on the bike, just flip it the right way up.

    Seat post, Thomson, keep.

    Crank is XT 737... valuable, but you probably don't want to keep it, so ebay it and get something like an SLX or a new GRX. (if you are going gravel). The raceface/blackspire rings you would separate and sell separately or keep.

    You've got an xt rear brake, xtr front. Probably the best you can get for v brakes, but I don't know if these work with road levers, they may have an incompatible cable pull.

    Atom bomb fork is cool too, but you probably wont want to actually use it. Sell it to a collector

  23. #23
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    great info! thanks so much

  24. #24
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    That headset takes a specific shaped o ring that's prone to cracking and splitting. Match up a hardware o ring and you'll be fine.
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vader View Post
    That headset takes a specific shaped o ring that's prone to cracking and splitting. Match up a hardware o ring and you'll be fine.
    The plastic t seal.. yuk. I think most people I know just ran without it.
    On the same topic, when you knock they headset out, get a shop to do it with the right tool, those headsets have a big taper on the inside, and using a screwdriver can mess them up real good... not that I ever did that.... nope.. not me....

    *cough*

  26. #26
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    For me, there are a few distinguishing things for this bike that I'm searching for. And let me preface that the people on this forum are a lot more knowledgeable about bike design than I am... but in the red circles below are:

    1. The shape of the drop out
    2. The two-part seat tube
    3. The spacing and angle between top and bottom tube

    Does anyone know what the deal with the two-part seat tube is? That seems to be very hard to find on almost all other bikes. Perhaps a list of manufacturers that used that?

    And I think you're right that some of the parts were swapped in it's life. I was originally looking for bikes with factory Bomber Z3, but the fact that the headset is upside down means it was taken apart at one point. So I'm starting to rule those forks out in my search.

    What bike is this? (solved)-bike.jpg

  27. #27
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    The sleeve on the seat tube was reinforcement. Why people thinking this is "canadian" is because the geometry in the early 90's of those bikes was for north shore riding, where most other bikes were much more upright, taller, shorter. They reinforced that part of the frame because you usually had a very long seatpost. This is also why that bike looks rather like a new bike compared to many 90's frames.

    Rocky, off road toad, dekerf, all reinforced the seat tube that way. Theres probably more.

    Other Canadian bikes of the time were brodie, kona, cove, Norco, but it seems not to be one of them.

    Another thing to circle is the very very fat, non s bend seat stays.

    Of course, we could all be wrong...

    Other premium steel frames that might have had similar geo back then were ibis, Bontrager, breezer.

  28. #28
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    Huh... well whaddya know.

    It's a Marin. 1998. Probably Pine Mountain or similar.

  29. #29
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    Based on everyone's help from this thread as well as my post in Vintage, Retro, Classic...

    Looks like I have a 1998 Marin Palisades Trail! Based on a link to the serial numbers...

    F78BAB02
    The F is the factory.

    M is Marvel, F is Fairly and T is Ti sports

    7 is the model number.

    1 Team Issue
    2 Team Marin
    3 Pine Mountain
    4 Eldridge grade
    5 Bear Valley
    6 Muirwoods
    7 Palisades Trail
    8 Bobcat Trail

    8 is the year ending number. That would be 1998.

    BA is month and date, but you will need the Enigma machine to decode these. Not really relevant either!

    B is the size centre to centre.

    A is 14 inches
    B is 15.5 inches ( this makes it 17 centre to top)
    C is 17 inches
    D is 19 inches
    E is 20 inches

    02 are production numbers that are factory use only, and again require the Enigma machine.


    And to someone who suggested I take the rear wheel off to see if Marin is stamped on the drop out... there it was right there!


    Great detective work!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    The headset is upside down. Poor bike.
    I seem to recall that being "a thing" for a few years, similar to running the rear tire backwards.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeA0589 View Post
    Based on everyone's help from this thread as well as my post in Vintage, Retro, Classic...

    Looks like I have a 1998 Marin Palisades Trail! Based on a link to the serial numbers...

    F78BAB02
    The F is the factory.

    M is Marvel, F is Fairly and T is Ti sports

    7 is the model number.

    1 Team Issue
    2 Team Marin
    3 Pine Mountain
    4 Eldridge grade
    5 Bear Valley
    6 Muirwoods
    7 Palisades Trail
    8 Bobcat Trail

    8 is the year ending number. That would be 1998.

    BA is month and date, but you will need the Enigma machine to decode these. Not really relevant either!

    B is the size centre to centre.

    A is 14 inches
    B is 15.5 inches ( this makes it 17 centre to top)
    C is 17 inches
    D is 19 inches
    E is 20 inches

    02 are production numbers that are factory use only, and again require the Enigma machine.


    And to someone who suggested I take the rear wheel off to see if Marin is stamped on the drop out... there it was right there!


    Great detective work!
    I saw that serial decode to... but its not completely applicable to newer models. palasaides trail was aluminium in 1998 for example.

    Close enough though

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I saw that serial decode to... but its not completely applicable to newer models. palasaides trail was aluminium in 1998 for example.

    Close enough though
    I noticed that it said aluminum as well. So maybe Pine Mountain? It's in the ballpark - I'll take it. Thanks all.

    Next up... I'll post pics of the Santa Cruz Super 8 and get everyone's opinion on that

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    I seem to recall that being "a thing" for a few years, similar to running the rear tire backwards.
    Lol. I've never ran a rear tire not backwards. Blame it on MBA in the late 80s for suggesting to flip the Tioga Farmer John for better braking.
    Last edited by Vader; 05-21-2020 at 02:30 PM.
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  34. #34
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    There a early connection between Marin and Rocky Mountain via Joe Murray in the late 80s. It looks like Marin went with "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" with their geo and design. Theve always used nice tubing on their steel bikes.
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vader View Post
    There a early connection between Marin and Rocky Mountain via Joe Murray in the late 80s. It looks like Marin went with "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" with their geo and design. Theve always used nice tubing on their steel bikes.
    Murray was Kona, not Rocky, although I'm sure there was some cross breeding in all those companies

    It's a shame they don't really exist in the same way anymore.

  36. #36
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    i forget this was a solved thread and excitedly read half way down the thread (before looging) in saying to myself "there marin dropouts im sure of it" doh....i lived and breathed marin bikes back in the 90's as they were very big in the area i live. there was one really good shop near me and they got a lot in.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Murray was Kona, not Rocky, although I'm sure there was some cross breeding in all those companies

    It's a shame they don't really exist in the same way anymore.
    The co owner of RM sold the farm and left to go to the US and Marin. Then went back and with his old friend started Kona. Murray was friends with both and Paul Brodie, another RM alum was influential with the sloping top tube that BC bikes became famous for. There may be missing info but that's what I remember from a drunken BBQ in Flag for Coconino Cycles ten years ago
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  38. #38
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    So I've started to disassemble the bike and check out the components. The right shifter is broken - missing the down lever. It's a Shimano XTR ST-M950 dual brake/shifter combo. Would you all recommend replacing with the same or going with something else comparable? Looks like there's a used pair on eBay right now for about $120 after shipping.

    Also the seatpost is seized

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vader View Post
    The co owner of RM sold the farm and left to go to the US and Marin. Then went back and with his old friend started Kona. Murray was friends with both and Paul Brodie, another RM alum was influential with the sloping top tube that BC bikes became famous for. There may be missing info but that's what I remember from a drunken BBQ in Flag for Coconino Cycles ten years ago
    the only (first hand, not off the internet) story I remember was race face became a separate company because it was lost in a divorce.... I don't know if that was really true... seemed plausible at the time, ha.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeA0589 View Post
    So I've started to disassemble the bike and check out the components. The right shifter is broken - missing the down lever. It's a Shimano XTR ST-M950 dual brake/shifter combo. Would you all recommend replacing with the same or going with something else comparable? Looks like there's a used pair on eBay right now for about $120 after shipping.

    Also the seatpost is seized
    I sold all my right side ones last year. still have the left side pod on ebay. (mechical internals). Be careful when looking at replacements, there were 3 or 4 variations.

    IF you intend to keep it 8 speed, and you intend to keep flat bars, then those levers are well worth keeping and repairing.

    On the seatpost, the frame has rust, so its probably in there real good. try and squirt wd40 in there and let it soak on its side (pour it down the post basically). Might take a while but it should eventually break loose with some force.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    the only (first hand, not off the internet) story I remember was race face became a separate company because it was lost in a divorce.... I don't know if that was really true... seemed plausible at the time, ha.
    Lol. I also remember from the tale that Deep Cove was heavily involved in getting Kona going by pushing thier bikes out the door for the North Shore riding.
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  42. #42
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    I never had a rocky mountain, I wanted a blizzard, but I lived in northern BC and by 1994 when I actually had money rocky was out of fashion and you would be mocked mercilessly for riding one. I did have 2 marins. 1995 indian fire trail (polished aluminum), and a 1992ish "limited edition" road bike, shimano 105 7 speed non sti with fluorescent green "lugs". I traded that one for a crap mountain bike for winter. Stupid mistake.

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    Trying to decide best course of action regarding shifter and drivetrain.
    It all needs to be de-rusted and cleaned up. New chain obviously, but I'm trying to decide if I should keep the 3x8.

    Here are the specs of what I have on the Marin currently:
    - Raceface 94 44T 9 speed crankset 3x
    - Shimano Deore XT front derailleur
    - Shimano XT Crank Set
    - 8spd 11-30 cassette
    - Shimano XTR ST-M950 shifter/brake combo (right shift levere needs to be replaced but brake lever works)
    - Shimano XTR front V-brakes
    - Shimano XT rear V-brakes

    I also got a 1998 Santa Cruz Super 8 that has the following:
    - Shimano Deore Deraileur (not sure what model - haven't taken it apart yet, but pic below)
    - Hayes brakes (not sure model yet, but pic below)
    - Shimano SL-M750 Right Shifter
    - 9spd 11-34 cassette

    I want to paint and assemble the bike with the old parts, and give it a test ride before making any upgrades. But in order to give it a test ride, I'll need a shifter.

    Could I temporarily take the Hayes shifter for the 9spd Santa Cruz and put it on the 8spd Marin to get a few test rides in? Are these compatible?

    Its hard to tell how bad the cassette and crankset is but I assume I'm going to have to at least replace the 8spd cassette. What should I get?
    If I have to replace the majority of the drive train anyway, should I forgo 3x8 and the replacement XTR-M950 combo shifter/brake and just go with whatever I want?

    How best should I spend my money?

    Lots of questions here. TIA

    All photos below from Santa Cruz Super 8:

    What bike is this? (solved)-img_8212.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8213.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8214.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8215.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8216.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8217.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8218.jpgWhat bike is this? (solved)-img_8219.jpg

  44. #44
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    Well, depends what the goal is I guess. a nice vintage bike, or just a bike that works well.

    I say that cause, the rear der, the crank, and the shifter/brake levers can be sold for probably almost half the cost of a new 11s groupset (slx 7000) which should run under $300us. So there no real money to save by trying to keep the old part and repairing them etc.

    The main sticking points holding you back are the brakes. you need to find stand alone levers for them in any scenario except repairing them and staying 3x8. so, id say, figure the brakes out first, then go from there.

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