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  1. #1
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    Upgrading SC Bullit ?

    Hi folks,

    I finally dug out my old SC Bullit. It's been decaying a long time in my garage. It looks pretty good in shape but its OLD !
    So my question arises, could I do something with it, or just trash it ?
    And if, what should I do with upgrades?
    I checked all the components today, and here they are:

    SC Bullit 2003 + Fifth element coil
    Hadley hubs
    Mavic 317D rims + 2.3"
    Marzocchi Bomber Super T
    Hope M4 brakes
    Drivetrain SRAM+Truvativ+FSA
    Gear SRAM X9, 3x9
    Thomson Elite, Titec, FSA bits and pieces

    The bike isn't heavy used, very light driving and frame never got hits or dents. But the geometry is what it is, single pivot and notorious habits.

    Thanks !
    Last edited by Seven7n; 09-14-2018 at 07:29 AM. Reason: typo, Title change

  2. #2
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    I'd say upgrade it, that's what I did with my old 1997 diamondback Sorrento. But going back to your bike, It has really good components for being a 2003. I say just replace the chain and ride it. Than go 1x for the fun of it

    Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Given that you probably don't ride that much (certainly not in the last 15 years, anyway) I'd just replace what is broken, tune it up, pump up the tires and do a little riding. Then, if you get serious, get a new bike.

  4. #4
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    Try offset bushings and see if you like the geo better. If you want to go further, swap the fork for a cheap used 180mm single crown. There are killer deals going on x fusion metric 180mm forks. As far as bang for buck goes those forks are in a league of their own. A floating brake kit will do wonders on the DH for any high forward single pivot. If the shock needs servicing send it to avalanche. For not much more than a basic service fee you get a speed sensitive damper mod and custom tune. People love Ava's SSD mods on those 5th coils. You might like 740 to 780mm bars if you're running something narrow now. Probably wouldn't shorten the stem unless you're running something really long.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the comments,

    Today after riding the bike I noticed that the gear shifting is busted, I mean it's worn out and doesn't shift properly anymore, so i think I'll go with upgrading the whole system once and for all to 12 speed. Do you think there will be something that prevents me doing so? I need to buy, 12spd cassette, chain, derailleur, shifter and a crank set -->
    Sunrace MZ90 12spd Shimano compatible cassette,
    SRAM DUB BSA73mm BB,
    GX Eagle Rear-D,
    GX Eagle shifter,
    Truvativ DUB Eagle crankset.
    That set will be little over 300$

    As well I intend to change the stem to shorter one but Marzocchi is with their odd bolt pattern which I think will be solved by FUNN RSX.

    New pedals, lifting seat post...

    I kind of like this style of bike, it is pretty all rounder. Just yesterday I did 10k in a forest plain XC and bashing down on downhill caring not much what was ahead of me
    I dont think it's time to get rid of this rig

  6. #6
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    Another thing you can do that will stiffen up the rear is a 10mm through axle. All QR 135mm frames will accept a 10mm thru axle, you'll just need to swap the internal axle in your rear hub. I'm pretty sure Hadley offers 10mm conversions. As far as the though axle goes, I have an old one made by Trek I ran on a heckler, bullit, and nomad before they switched to 12mm axles. You should be able to find a 10mm axle without too much trouble. They weren't supper common as most people didn't know you could run through axles on 135mm frames, but I'm sure there's still some floating around on the used market, or old stock on eBay. It's a great upgrade over QR. They basically turn any 135mm frame into a 12x142 frame just without the little notches that make installing the wheel easier.

  7. #7
    Hardtail Steel Forever
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimat99 View Post
    Another thing you can do that will stiffen up the rear is a 10mm through axle. All QR 135mm frames will accept a 10mm thru axle, you'll just need to swap the internal axle in your rear hub. I'm pretty sure Hadley offers 10mm conversions. As far as the though axle goes, I have an old one made by Trek I ran on a heckler, bullit, and nomad before they switched to 12mm axles. You should be able to find a 10mm axle without too much trouble. They weren't supper common as most people didn't know you could run through axles on 135mm frames, but I'm sure there's still some floating around on the used market, or old stock on eBay. It's a great upgrade over QR. They basically turn any 135mm frame into a 12x142 frame just without the little notches that make installing the wheel easier.
    https://www.jensonusa.com/DT-Swiss-R...-Aluminum-Rear

    I run this one on the rear of my SC BLT2.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

  8. #8
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    Definitely clean and tune it up and ride it. Iíve got an old Bullet and ride it around once in a while.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jestep View Post
    https://www.jensonusa.com/DT-Swiss-R...-Aluminum-Rear

    I run this one on the rear of my SC BLT2.
    Yep, but it's not a thru axle. Thru axles thread into the frame or frame insert. It's a thru bolt.

    Wife's old Blur XC has these front and rear.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Yep, but it's not a thru axle. Thru axles thread into the frame or frame insert. It's a thru bolt.

    Wife's old Blur XC has these front and rear.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

    The end result in how the bike will feel on the trail is the same though. 10mm axles sitting in the dropouts produce such a stiff interface all the rear end flex will be coming from the rear rim, and rear triangle, not the axle frame interface. Only benefit of 12mm over 10mm is ease of installation, not riding dynamics.

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