Titus Motolite service manuals?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Titus Motolite service manuals?

    Hi, does anyone have the old Titus Motolite assembly docs they can send me? I'm looking for torque specs for all the pivots. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Titus never had a Motolite manual. When I find myself in a similar situation, I tighten all hardware without excessive force and then add 1/4-1/2 turn for insurance.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

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    It is the Right of the People to Alter or to Abolish It.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Thanks!! That's exactly what I was looking for. Glad these things are still around.

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    I miss my moto. Post pics after your rebuild.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Wow, thanks! I have a Titus Full Tilt Moto, which was the replacement for the Motolite. Does anyone have torques specific to the FTM (aluminum frame)? Otherwise this is a good starting point.

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    So the reason I'm asking is that a local Craigslist seller has a Motolite on sale here that is in excellent shape (hardly ridden and the paint looks really clean) with a new-ish X-fusion Velvet RL2 fork, SRAM X-0, XTR wheels, etc. for $1K. Question I have for you guys is if the bike is still relevant today and how long does the suspension pivot bushings and bearings last on these bikes.hough

    Any thoughts from the peanut gallery on this bike? =)

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    From what I recall, I think I replaced the lower eye bushing on my shock in about 1200 miles but this was a used frame. No idea how many miles the original owner put on it. Never had any slop in the frame bushings. Sold the bike before frame bushings needed replaced though (stupid).

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    From what I recall, I think I replaced the lower eye bushing on my shock in about 1200 miles but this was a used frame. No idea how many miles the original owner put on it. Never had any slop in the frame bushings. Sold the bike before frame bushings needed replaced though (stupid).
    Do you think the Motolite would compare to new bike "standards" today for trail riding? From my research, the geometry was pretty forward thinking back then with the long TTs for given size. They're not as "swoopy" as new bikes but there's a certain industrial aesthetic to the design that's very appealing.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoFX View Post
    So the reason I'm asking is that a local Craigslist seller has a Motolite on sale here that is in excellent shape (hardly ridden and the paint looks really clean) with a new-ish X-fusion Velvet RL2 fork, SRAM X-0, XTR wheels, etc. for $1K. Question I have for you guys is if the bike is still relevant today and how long does the suspension pivot bushings and bearings last on these bikes.hough

    Any thoughts from the peanut gallery on this bike? =)
    You can get the bearings from enduro bearings and the HL bushings last forever.

    The motolite is really plush with poor anti-squat numbers. Best to use it with a shock with a good deal of platform.

    Personally, I would not pay $1000 for it. If you had to get a 26 bike, I would buy a Turner - which can be had for $1000 easy. Most I would pay would be ~$400.
    It is the Right of the People to Alter or to Abolish It.

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    Not sure Iíd compare it to modern geo bike but the ETT was a little long. I do remember that with a 100mm fork is was more XC and with a 120mm fork it was a good trail bike. Anything over 120 and the front got light and wandry on climbs.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    Not sure Iíd compare it to modern geo bike but the ETT was a little long. I do remember that with a 100mm fork is was more XC and with a 120mm fork it was a good trail bike. Anything over 120 and the front got light and wandry on climbs.
    Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
    Now that you reminded me, I was off by 20mm on my numbers.

    OP, at 140mm it got light in the front end and at 120mm felt well planted. I think I ran mine at 120 and was happy. I also ran with my Propedal at #2 most of the time. I donít like a mushy rear suspension.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    Now that you reminded me, I was off by 20mm on my numbers.

    OP, at 140mm it got light in the front end and at 120mm felt well planted. I think I ran mine at 120 and was happy. I also ran with my Propedal at #2 most of the time. I donít like a mushy rear suspension.

    I ran mine with up to a 160 mm fork and it felt fine. Light on climbs but not much different than at 140. I agree, the bike felt the best with a 120mm fork and a pushed shock.
    It is the Right of the People to Alter or to Abolish It.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Yeah, and the reported geometry was a little different with a 69 head angle and a ~72 seat angle with a 130 mm fork. But I noticed huge variation from bike to bike. My 2007, made in Taiwan bike, was closer to 71 and 74.5 while a friends bike (also 2007) was 68/72. Both with Talas forks set at 140. Mine was a large and his was a medium.
    Thanks Vespasianus and mnigro! Yeah, I'm reading through all the old Motolite threads and the feedback on geometry and suspension was all over the place. A lot of it I believe has to do with geometry differences and shock lengths between the XS and S frames versus the larger frame sizes. The XS and S frames had steeper HTA and STA for a given fork travel than the others in addition to a shorter stroke length so it was really hard to get consistent feedback on a particular size and fork length. Anyway, the frame I'm interested in is a size S.

    By the way, are the maintenance and setup documents for the Motolite out there? I found old HTMLs for the Racer-X so it should be similar but would like to see one for the Moto.
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    I don't think I got much of any set-up document when I purchased my Motolite. Just used 25% sag and went. The bearings I had done at a shop but honestly, they are pretty robust.

    If I remember correctly, the small size used a shorter shock as well and actually got less travel then the 127mm that was claimed. Titus admitted this when the FTM was released and they made a big deal about how all sizes now got 5" of travel.

    The guy that knows a lot about those old Titus's is Bikerbob. I have not seen him post on these boards for years but you might still be able to find him on bikerbob.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    I don't think I got much of any set-up document when I purchased my Motolite. Just used 25% sag and went. The bearings I had done at a shop but honestly, they are pretty robust.

    If I remember correctly, the small size used a shorter shock as well and actually got less travel then the 127mm that was claimed. Titus admitted this when the FTM was released and they made a big deal about how all sizes now got 5" of travel.

    The guy that knows a lot about those old Titus's is Bikerbob. I have not seen him post on these boards for years but you might still be able to find him on bikerbob.com
    Thanks! I wonder if he's still in business as his website is showing he has Titus frames still for sale. =)

  18. #18
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    I'm still riding my 2006 Titus Motolite small frame but I changed the shock from Fox RP 23 to RS Monarch RT3 and that was a great upgrade for me. I could never set up rp 23 to work for me - I weigh 195lbs and with gear probably 230lbs. Up front I have a Fox Talas that I usually ride in the 120mm setting, I've also ridden with a Manitou Minute Super 120mm fork and was pretty happy with how it worked. Talas has a lock out and essentially so does RT3 so that let's me lock it all out on smooth climbs. Since buying the frame in 2007, I've had to replace the bushings once.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Emax View Post
    I'm still riding my 2006 Titus Motolite small frame but I changed the shock from Fox RP 23 to RS Monarch RT3 and that was a great upgrade for me. I could never set up rp 23 to work for me - I weigh 195lbs and with gear probably 230lbs. Up front I have a Fox Talas that I usually ride in the 120mm setting, I've also ridden with a Manitou Minute Super 120mm fork and was pretty happy with how it worked. Talas has a lock out and essentially so does RT3 so that let's me lock it all out on smooth climbs. Since buying the frame in 2007, I've had to replace the bushings once.
    That's great to hear. Any issues with getting the full 5" travel with your setup? I'm looking at a size S as well. Any need to update to "modern" specs and geometry or are you still happy with the Motolite?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoFX View Post
    That's great to hear. Any issues with getting the full 5" travel with your setup? I'm looking at a size S as well. Any need to update to "modern" specs and geometry or are you still happy with the Motolite?
    I know what youíre trying to figure out, I get it... just went though the same conundrum when the rear swingarm on my 26er cracked. In the end I did buy the crash replacement part for a cost of $600 installed. There wasnít much else I could do with old 9 speed components and 26Ē wheels with 2 new spare tires. Instead of trash what felt like a few hundred bucks worth of parts, I decided to pony up the $600 and try to get a few more years out of the bike.

    Motolite or not, The internal debate you need to have should go like this:
    1. If I buy this bike and the frame cracks, what are my options to replace it? Pretty much zero in 26Ē options. Titus is gone so no crash replacements that Iím aware of.
    2. If I buy the bike and donít like it, can I sell it? Yeah but itíll be a long wait.

    If youíre comfortable with these answers then keep pursuing the bike. If not, Iíd say move on and try to find something else with better answers to these questions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    I know what youíre trying to figure out, I get it... just went though the same conundrum when the rear swingarm on my 26er cracked. In the end I did buy the crash replacement part for a cost of $600 installed. There wasnít much else I could do with old 9 speed components and 26Ē wheels with 2 new spare tires. Instead of trash what felt like a few hundred bucks worth of parts, I decided to pony up the $600 and try to get a few more years out of the bike.

    Motolite or not, The internal debate you need to have should go like this:
    1. If I buy this bike and the frame cracks, what are my options to replace it? Pretty much zero in 26Ē options. Titus is gone so no crash replacements that Iím aware of.
    2. If I buy the bike and donít like it, can I sell it? Yeah but itíll be a long wait.

    If youíre comfortable with these answers then keep pursuing the bike. If not, Iíd say move on and try to find something else with better answers to these questions.
    Yes and the biggest question is at what dollar amount am I willing to risk questions 1 and 2?😁.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoFX View Post
    Yes and the biggest question is at what dollar amount am I willing to risk questions 1 and 2?😁.
    Bingo! I was weighing the difference between a $600 replacement part and dropping $3.5k on a new bike. That day will come but not just yet...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    Bingo! I was weighing the difference between a $600 replacement part and dropping $3.5k on a new bike. That day will come but not just yet...
    In the case of the Moto-Lite, itís risking $1000 for zero support vs $2500 for a new bike with support. After 10 years wouldnít both bikes end up in the same place at zero? Especially with all these changing standards. Thatís the bet..can the Motolite last 10 years to justify the $1000 risk?

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    I wouldnít count on it. If anything breaks youíll be forced to buy used parts or downgrade to whatever low level parts are available. Same will prob happen with a new bike but your window of availability is a bit bigger.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    I wouldnít count on it. If anything breaks youíll be forced to buy used parts or downgrade to whatever low level parts are available. Same will prob happen with a new bike but your window of availability is a bit bigger.
    Agreed, forecasting out another 10 years of riding, the Motolite will be 20 years old, a new bike will be 10 years. However, at a $1500 discount though ($1K vs. $2.5K for a "comparable" build quality and component spec). Guess it really depends if i think the frame can last as i'm confident forks, wheels, and drivetrains will still be around.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoFX View Post
    Agreed, forecasting out another 10 years of riding, the Motolite will be 20 years old, a new bike will be 10 years. However, at a $1500 discount though ($1K vs. $2.5K for a "comparable" build quality and component spec). Guess it really depends if i think the frame can last as i'm confident forks, wheels, and drivetrains will still be around.
    What year is it? Certain years were associated with cracked chain and seat stays. The 2007 models were made by kinesis in Taiwan and tended to be the most durable. The 2005-6 models were made in USA and had the most problems. The 2008 models came back to being made in the USA and for the most part, were durable.
    It is the Right of the People to Alter or to Abolish It.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    What year is it? Certain years were associated with cracked chain and seat stays. The 2007 models were made by kinesis in Taiwan and tended to be the most durable. The 2005-6 models were made in USA and had the most problems. The 2008 models came back to being made in the USA and for the most part, were durable.
    Itís a 2009 frame made in USA (at least thatís what the sticker says). It has the carbon seat stays (so technically itís a ML2) with a white powdercoated finish. It very clean. No chainslap marks at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoFX View Post
    Itís a 2009 frame made in USA (at least thatís what the sticker says). It has the carbon seat stays (so technically itís a ML2) with a white powdercoated finish. It very clean. No chainslap marks at all.
    That should be a durable model.
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    Wink

    Just got a NOS Titus Motolite II frame in size S from a dealer in TW of all places. Frame weight is 5.59lbs, which is consistent with the published specs from Titus.

    Will be building her up my old 26er wheels and tires, X-Fusion Velvet RL2 fork, BB, cranks, saddle, seatpost, stem, handlebars, SRAM Guide R brakes plus a new XT M8000 1x11 drivetrain.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Titus Motolite service manuals?-20190820_104135-large-.jpg  

    Titus Motolite service manuals?-20190819_143938-large-.jpg  


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