Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 126 of 126
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)

    So i have an NRS from 2000/2001, and a whole lot o random parts noone has bought form me on ebay, so, lets put it all together!

    The frame has been stripped, and it going to get anodised black. (ill post pics of the frame on the weekend).

    I need a new set of bearings for it, and i will machine new bushings from turcite or an equivelant material.

    i will be reaming the head tube deeper, so i can use a EC44 lower headset cup to run a tapered fork.

    ** The original SID is blown and cant be fixed, so i need to find out which of the available "reasonably priced" shocks is best suited. Thoughts here are appreciated especially if you've tried them already. Ones readily available that physically fit are the monarch r/rl and dt x313 but I don't know much about either.

    ** i am having trouble with wheels - well, rims. I have nobby nic 2.35 26" tires on hand, these are borderline on the lower swingarm for fitment (any thick mud would jam it up). But, there seems to be few choices in nice 26" x 25mm internal width rims. Theres carbon light bicycle rims at $470cdn a pair shipped - more than id like to spend. DT EX471 $200cdn a pair shipped which are nice, but heavy. Little else is in stock anywhere. I ignored the discount mavic rims and prebuilt DT wheels over the last few years and they all seem gone now. What else should I look at (links to shops with it in stock)? I prefer welded rims.

    ** Alternatively, I can get all sorts of nice and well priced 27.5" rims and wheels. but I get heavily restricted then on tire size. haven't got a wheel to test handy, but a 33c Schwalbe x one bite (700c cross) fits the frame with only 1-2mm to spare. So I doubt ill fit anything bigger than a 40C 27.5 "gravel" tire. Any thoughts on that - from NRS owners maybe? Is 40c going to be terrible as a mountain bike (my hardtail bike is 2.35 tires on 27.5 at 20psi and I like it much. Anyone tired any sort of 27.5 tire in an NRS?

    ** Next, is the fork. I'm looking at a reba 27.5 100mm travel... cause its here. The original fork was an 80mm sid. The reba will raise the front end by about 35mm. Does this seem detrimental? I imagine I can tweak the reba travel and sag to make it behave closer to the sid if I had to. Anyone put a long fork on their NRS? How did it work out?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MSU Alum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    4,091
    If you have lots of spare parts or can machine your own, go for it. I wouldn't put any money into it. I think if you put the 100 on there, it would make it ride really well, though.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    im trying not putting any money that isn't transferable. As in, most of what I have to BUY I can repurpose on any new bike later on - or sell with good value.

    The shock is unavoidable of course. Hoping for that 80% off sale :P But that makes the frame worth something, as opposed to 0 right now. so its not a loss.

    The wheels are the sticking point, as 26" has no real value other than on this frame to me. So its either lose $120 in tires and get more useful 27.5 wheels, or lose $270 in rims/spokes BUT, maybe get a much better riding bike out of it.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MSU Alum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    4,091
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    im trying not putting any money that isn't transferable. As in, most of what I have to BUY I can repurpose on any new bike later on - or sell with good value.

    The shock is unavoidable of course. Hoping for that 80% off sale :P But that makes the frame worth something, as opposed to 0 right now. so its not a loss.

    The wheels are the sticking point, as 26" has no real value other than on this frame to me. So its either lose $120 in tires and get more useful 27.5 wheels, or lose $270 in rims/spokes BUT, maybe get a much better riding bike out of it.
    I don't know how much room you have in the back, but I'd rather have a 26" wheel that I can put, say, a 2.4" on than a 27.5 that I can only put a 2.0 on.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    yeah, the dt 26" ex471's are im my cart... seems to be the most logical choice right now.

  6. #6
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    There's a reason no one's buying it. Part of it is that rear shock, but by the time you find one, anodize the frame, and buy all these parts you might as well have bought a newer used frame/bike that'll ride WAY better and won't be ~20 years old. Also, you could be asking too much. I'd be willing to bet someone would buy it for $100 for spare parts...eventually.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Ha, so I shoved my 27.5 rock razor 2.35 front wheel into the frame and it fits - axle lines up. It touches the top of the stays just barely. So on 26" that means ill have a comfortable 8-10mm clearance on the nobby nic with maybe 3mm each side on the swing arm (lots of room on the seat stays).

    So the 27.5 x 2.1 would probably be still "too close for comfort". Well that decision is made I guess. Just need to decide if the DT rims are the best choice.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    There's a reason no one's buying it. Part of it is that rear shock, but by the time you find one, anodize the frame, and buy all these parts you might as well have bought a newer used frame/bike that'll ride WAY better and won't be ~20 years old. Also, you could be asking too much. I'd be willing to bet someone would buy it for $100 for spare parts...eventually.
    frame was never for sale.
    im talking about all the OTHER parts i have (cranks, shifters, derailleurs, tires, etc etc) :P

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    So I consider myself king of throwing good money at a worthless old NRS. I too, have a stash of parts, some old, some new and destined for other bikes. But right now, my NRS is getting love as I'm between "newish" bikes, but have some good stuff sitting around. So look away if you can't stand seeing money wasted on an old bike. The sum of the parts is definitely worth more than the whole NRS, but for this brief moment in time, here it is:



    See if you can count the ways I've wasted money and parts.

    By the way, 26 x 2.25's are as large as I dare go. That's on the Frankenstein'd Mavic 819 UST 19mm rims that came with the bike.


    Old Ag

  10. #10
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
    Reputation: rideit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,602
    I had a hard time actually GIVING away a 2005 Carbon NRS frame recently. They wanted free shipping, too!
    It was ridiculous.

  11. #11
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ag View Post
    So I consider myself king of throwing good money at a worthless old NRS. I too, have a stash of parts, some old, some new and destined for other bikes. But right now, my NRS is getting love as I'm between "newish" bikes, but have some good stuff sitting around. So look away if you can't stand seeing money wasted on an old bike. The sum of the parts is definitely worth more than the whole NRS, but for this brief moment in time, here it is:



    See if you can count the ways I've wasted money and parts.

    By the way, 26 x 2.25's are as large as I dare go. That's on the Frankenstein'd Mavic 819 UST 19mm rims that came with the bike.


    Old Ag
    Don't get me wrong. I used to own an NRS3 ('02, I think) and I enjoyed riding it for quite a while. If you already have the bits laying around then it's better than not riding while you save up. The problem OP has is entirely different. No rear shock, wheels, fork and on top of that wanting to throw money at anodization. That's easily $450-500.

    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    frame was never for sale.
    im talking about all the OTHER parts i have (cranks, shifters, derailleurs, tires, etc etc) :P
    Then it's easy. Sell old frame. Buy newish frame. Put on parts. Ride.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Don't get me wrong. I used to own an NRS3 ('02, I think) and I enjoyed riding it for quite a while. If you already have the bits laying around then it's better than not riding while you save up. The problem OP has is entirely different. No rear shock, wheels, fork and on top of that wanting to throw money at anodization. That's easily $450-500.
    anodising is free in this case as its going in with a pallet of real work parts, so thats a non thing.

    its up over $800cdn for wheels and shock, if i pay the full price (meaning, shiny new and not on blowout sale).


    you are completely right i could just build something completely different and end up with more money in my pocket afterwards though.

    But i figue ill entertain this to its conclusion before giving up on it

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Don't get me wrong. I used to own an NRS3 ('02, I think) and I enjoyed riding it for quite a while. If you already have the bits laying around then it's better than not riding while you save up. The problem OP has is entirely different. No rear shock, wheels, fork and on top of that wanting to throw money at anodization. That's easily $450-500.

    My problem isn't saving up either. I was all ready to go to build up a frame, then GG drops their new carbon stuff. Now I have to convince my wife i need a Trail Pisol. In the meantime, I've somehow held onto the old Giant. Last rode in anger in 2013. Who knows, now that I've lipsticked up that old pig, she may have one last Xterra in her.

    Old Ag

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    A friend of mine has two NRS bikes which he bought cheap. He's obsessed with having light stuff but won't spend proper money to get it. I got a go on one. Is it light? yes. Would I want to ride it down any remotely technical and demanding trail? Hell no.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    A friend of mine has two NRS bikes which he bought cheap. He's obsessed with having light stuff but won't spend proper money to get it. I got a go on one. Is it light? yes. Would I want to ride it down any remotely technical and demanding trail? Hell no.
    He'll be alright if he treats it as what it is. Essentially a delicate hardtail. It was designed as a cross country racer before someone put chunk into cross country. So its the weight of a full suspension with the ride of a hard tail. But I just can't part with mine. Mine isn't that light either. Mine was 26# and change before I threw 1x12 and a heavy dropper at it. I crack myself up putting a dropper on an NRS. I've only loaned it the 1x12.

    But I must say, I forgot how fun this thing is. Really efficient. Wheelies and manuals, no problem. Big drops, not so much. It feels like a kids bike. Which is what mine is destined to become.

    Old Ag

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    My NRS was 23-24lbs or so last it wast built up. The frame is 5lbs which is lighter than my GT 27.5+ hardtail frame

  17. #17
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    A friend of mine has two NRS bikes which he bought cheap. He's obsessed with having light stuff but won't spend proper money to get it. I got a go on one. Is it light? yes. Would I want to ride it down any remotely technical and demanding trail? Hell no.
    So you're saying you wanna keep the fillings in your teeth?

    Funny thing is I got to ride an S-Works carbon blingbike on a demo this summer and they're not all that different. Suspension is slightly better on the new one and it had a dropper, but both punish you for bad lines.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  18. #18
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
    Reputation: rideit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,602
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    So you're saying you wanna keep the fillings in your teeth?
    I rode Porcupine/TWE on that thing twice before doing it on a 6" AC.
    NEVER AGAIN

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    So you're saying you wanna keep the fillings in your teeth?
    It felt very light but also very upright and unsteady. You felt like you were sitting on the bike rather than in it? Great for a bike path, maybe not ideal for rocky descents.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,637
    lots of good memories on my nrs-1.

    I eventually gave the bike away due to the cost of rebuilding it, was not worth it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-575556_333454620115242_120273285_n.jpg  

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-bikebullbike1.jpg  

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-skitwitch-2011-005res.jpg  

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-img_1271res.jpg  

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-img_2769res.jpg  


  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    443
    I had a first year blue one, a NRS1 I think. Then I bought a carbon one the next year. A NRS0 ?. If memory serves me correct they used to brake jack something fierce.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    I had a first year blue one, a NRS1 I think. Then I bought a carbon one the next year. A NRS0 ?. If memory serves me correct they used to brake jack something fierce.
    They are designed to run with the shock topped out with zero sag. They won’t brake jack set up that way. But if you run them with sag, all bets are off.

    Old Ag
    Last edited by Old Ag; 02-26-2019 at 01:05 PM.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    443
    Whenever you went downhill, when you wanted cush, the rear would be locked out.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    v-brake or disc?

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    Whenever you went downhill, when you wanted cush, the rear would be locked out.
    It was only an illusion. The shock never locked out. It only felt like it. The NRS was never cush. Earlier models were more harsh than later models due to a few tweaks to the rear frame. Some later models got two travel settings as well. Giant eventually suggested running some sag for small bump compliance as an option. Rockshox provided a dual air SID which was the best option. Later models didn’t have negative chamber adjustment in the Giant branded shock. The last year or so got a Fox Ava shock. None of these have any support anymore. Some folks would swap in a Cane Creek shock and aftermarket rocker arms for a better ride. But it was never a terribly compliant ride and would get brutal if it wasn’t set up correctly or modified with the wrong shock. The suspension always remained active, pedaling or not.

    Old Ag
    Last edited by Old Ag; 02-26-2019 at 01:06 PM.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    ** The original SID is blown and cant be fixed, so i need to find out which of the available "reasonably priced" shocks is best suited. Thoughts here are appreciated especially if you've tried them already. Ones readily available that physically fit are the monarch r/rl and dt x313 but I don't know much about either.
    So the SID may be able to be salvaged. If it won’t hold positive air pressure, But the damper still works, and the anodization is not worn off the visible portion of the shaft, you can get some of the critical seals in the Rockshox Bar service kit. The main seal and retainer will fit, but the dust seal won’t, so the original will have to be reused. The seal between the positive an negative chambers sort of works, but it’s slightly too small in diameter and may slowly allow air from the positive chamber into the negative chamber. So with a good cleaning and dose of Judy Butter, you may get it going again with the Bar parts. I use an oil filter strap type wrench to open it up. May be worth the $12 to salvage your SID. Mine is still original with the Bar main seal installed.

    One more thing: There is a company called Kind that makes a dual air shock in 165mm length. It’s $75US on eBay. Mostly found on folding bikes and recumants but may work on an NRS if you still have the bushings from the SID. May be worth the experiment. The only issue I see is that it may have too low of a limit for positive pressure. Look for Kindshock A5-RR1 in a 165mmx40mm. I make no garuntee that this will fit or work so YMMV.

    Old Ag

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Ooh, interesting. I have the SID in front of me. the turcite composite seal in behind the blue split bushing is cracked and tossed out ages ago.. "glide ring"? everything else seems to be fine. Damper is fine and still charged (springs on its own and adjusts with the knob).


    So, I think the negative chamber leaks out the cracked glide ring. The seal between positive and negative seem fine and indeed the shock "worked" before I took it apart.


    So if that turcite ring came from another shock repair kit like the bar - I could fix it. Thoughts on it being the same?


    I also looked at the kind shock, I wouldn't trust it, haha. It is of no use to me to rebuilt this "low end". Its gotta be good or there is no point spending the money. Most of the parts that go with it are 90's XTR after all.


    All the nrs hate is funny though, the bike is what it is, it's a soft tail. You have to think of it as a safety hardtail - rigid until you smack something hard. It's not a 6" travel enduro bike. You don't have to want to ride one, but don't misrepresent it as something its not

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    U-cup seal, that's what the thing is called. I wonder if that lives in any other shock.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    seems im missing the can seal that goes under the threaded collar. I guess I lost it. that one seems like its just a basic o ring though.

  30. #30
    Don't Tread on Me
    Reputation: Lopaka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    864
    In it's day the NRS was a nice XC bike. but the industry has left that technology way behind. I still have an NRS but it gathers dust most of the time. When friends needs a loner bike, it gets some use.
    Consciousness, that annoying time between bike rides.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    The bike industry leave a lot behind, only to bring it back 20 years later calling it the latest in innovation - like pressed fit bottom brackets :P


    So i saw a picture of the monarch seal, and it looks identical. dont see any close up pics of the bar one. my guess is the are all the same - they all seem to be 1" inner diam.


    Im gonna see if a local shop has any random seal kit.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well I got a Thomson dropper on sale. Woo. This will fit the NRS (reamed out to 30.9) as well as my carbon hard tail, so I wanted it regardless. (any excuse, haha)

    Pondering drivetrain options.

    things i have:
    - deore crank
    - stx 10 speed shifters
    - xtr 8 speed shifter and derailleur with new xt cassette
    - 10 speed xt rear der with no spring (not sure if i can even get a new spring)
    - magic motorcycle crank
    - xt di2 shifter

    hmmmm

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ag View Post
    It was only an illusion. The shock never locked out. It only felt like it. The NRS was never cush. Earlier models were more harsh than later models due to a few tweaks to the rear frame. Some later models got two travel settings as well. Giant eventually suggested running some sag for small bump compliance as an option. Rockshox provided a dual air SID which was the best option. Later models didn’t have negative chamber adjustment in the Giant branded shock. The last year or so got a Fox Ava shock. None of these have any support anymore. Some folks would swap in a Kane Creek shock and aftermarket rocker arms for a better ride. But it was never a terribly compliant ride and would get brutal if it wasn’t set up correctly or modified with the wrong shock. The suspension always remained active, pedaling or not.
    So basically, the suspension is shite?

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Ooh, interesting. I have the SID in front of me. the turcite composite seal in behind the blue split bushing is cracked and tossed out ages ago.. "glide ring"? everything else seems to be fine. Damper is fine and still charged (springs on its own and adjusts with the knob).


    So, I think the negative chamber leaks out the cracked glide ring. The seal between positive and negative seem fine and indeed the shock "worked" before I took it apart.


    So if that turcite ring came from another shock repair kit like the bar - I could fix it. Thoughts on it being the same?
    Just so we are on the same page, I’ll use RockShox terminology from here: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...0-%20Rev_B.pdf

    The “U Cup Seal” and “Guide Ring” in Figures 11b and 11c (that is the inner seal and split ring, respectively) can be replaced with the parts from the BAR Service kit.

    The dust seal in 11a must be reused, but as it doesn’t hold air, it should be serviceable.

    The “Fixed Piston O-Ring” in Figure 13a should be reused if possible. The one from the BAR kit is slightly smaller in cross section and may slowly leak. However, this is a seal that is well protected in the shock and should be reusable.

    As for the seal under the threaded collar, if you are referring to the “Inner Eyelet O-Ring” from Figure 13c, the BAR kit’s seal looks smaller in diameter. I never removed that seal from the shock as its not a wear item. Mine worked fine, but if you’ve lost yours, you may have some searching to do.

    Lastly, the Kind shock is a cheap thing, but seems to be the only thing from new that may work.

    Old Ag

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Well I got a Thomson dropper on sale. Woo. This will fit the NRS (reamed out to 30.9) as well as my carbon hard tail, so I wanted it regardless. (any excuse, haha)
    The dropper on mine is a 150mm PNW Cascade in 30.9. The NRS had a 27.2 seat post but it also used a plastic bushing to fit the post in the larger diameter seat tube. The 30.9 Cascade fits my frame, but its a tight fit. No reaming required, but I did grease it up a bit.

    Old Ag

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ag View Post
    The dropper on mine is a 150mm PNW Cascade in 30.9. The NRS had a 27.2 seat post but it also used a plastic bushing to fit the post in the larger diameter seat tube. The 30.9 Cascade fits my frame, but its a tight fit. No reaming required, but I did grease it up a bit.

    Old Ag
    Mine wont fit 30.9. I ran a 30.8 Thomson in it from day 1 as I needed a 400mm post and the shim didn't seem like a good idea. I have a reamer on hand so its a quick fix. I had to ream my GT to 31.6 because it was too loose at its intended 30.9. The comedy reamer handle is fun.. I bought it all from KBC tools (machine tool store) and just bought the handle they said to use with it... its 32" wide and weights 15lbs!!! No shortage of leverage at least. Also explains why it was $86 and the next size down was $19 :P

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ag View Post
    Just so we are on the same page, I’ll use RockShox terminology from here: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...0-%20Rev_B.pdf

    The “U Cup Seal” and “Guide Ring” in Figures 11b and 11c (that is the inner seal and split ring, respectively) can be replaced with the parts from the BAR Service kit.

    The dust seal in 11a must be reused, but as it doesn’t hold air, it should be serviceable.

    The “Fixed Piston O-Ring” in Figure 13a should be reused if possible. The one from the BAR kit is slightly smaller in cross section and may slowly leak. However, this is a seal that is well protected in the shock and should be reusable.

    As for the seal under the threaded collar, if you are referring to the “Inner Eyelet O-Ring” from Figure 13c, the BAR kit’s seal looks smaller in diameter. I never removed that seal from the shock as its not a wear item. Mine worked fine, but if you’ve lost yours, you may have some searching to do.

    Lastly, the Kind shock is a cheap thing, but seems to be the only thing from new that may work.

    Old Ag
    THANKS!

    I'll get me a BAR kit. The o ring under the collar is probably fine as it just gets smashed, so a slightly smaller diameter shouldn't matter. If not, its probably a pretty standard o ring I can find at an industrial supply.

    edit: AHA! I found the o ring. it was tucked inside the top of the can. looks fine.

    So because of sram restrictions, I guess i'm stuck with ebay for seal kits if my local shop doesn't have one.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    So basically, the suspension is shite?
    Why were you here again?

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Why were you here again?
    Can't even remember.

  40. #40
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    So basically, the suspension is shite?
    It was good for that era and a pretty big step forward from a lot of the truly terrible rear sus stuff. These days there are way better options including Giant's "Maestro" and better shocks to help make up for design deficiencies. But yeah, no way I'd intentionally go back to it. I intentionally didn't mention how I wrapped mine around a tree the first time I took it on some properly steep stuff. Killed the frame and the dealer was nice enough to let me purchase an aluminum hardtail frame as a crash replacement. It was only slightly less plush out back.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    The BAR kit is available at a lot of places. I got it from: https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...ls.php?id=9886

    Old Ag

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    The shipping and brokerage is almost $60cdn from them for snail mail.

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    i bought 2 kits on ebay - $60cdn all in with shippign and tax. i guess thats fair enough for a part that should have cost me $14.99cdn at a local shop :P

    i repaired my 10 speed XT rear derailleur as well, so, that will go on the bike.

    im going to get the head tube reamed this week i hope, and do any other small mods (need to figure out routing for the internal dropper cable)

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    i bought 2 kits on ebay - $60cdn all in with shippign and tax. i guess thats fair enough for a part that should have cost me $14.99cdn at a local shop :P

    Good plan to buy two kits. I did the same thing. Never know when they'll be discontinued. I bought two for the rear SID and 2 for the front, a 2009 SID, which with 32mm legs, was a significant improvement over its flexible predecessor.

    Can't help on the cable routing, other than suggesting running it externally under the top tube with all the other cables, then down toward the bottom of the seat tube then in. I have no idea if a cable can be routed around the BB, if you go down the downtube. The collar mounted cable for the PNW Cascade works well. Routed where the front derailer cable went and even ran both it and the Eagle rear cable without the housing under the top tube. Very old school. Then again its a 17 year old bike.


    Old Ag

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well, there is a possibility of going above the bb shell from the down tube to the seat tube. It will need a hole to be drilled where there's no access to drill one though. A round carbide bur with a reduced shank on a dremel might be able to reach. I have to see if that's viable. Basically you have to go into the bb shell, the up through the hole in the bb shell for the seat tube, then cut a hole into said seat tube where it meets the down tube. Easy as cake!

    Failing that, if you run on the top tube, then you have to drop down the front der cable stop, then make a loop and into the bottom of the seat tube. I dont like the idea of the tight loop. the thomson has stiff cable actuation and it seems.. not ideal to make it's path worse.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Got my head tube reamed deeper by mariposa. Woo. Next i think is to figure out the bushings and new bearings. Anyone seen an exploded view diagram of how they assemble? i have all the parts in a box, but it would be nice to have the correct method of reassembling instead of just guessing

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Weighed the frame, shock, pivot hardware. 2075 grams 4.6 lbs.

    My gt pantera hardtail frame (27plus) is 5.1lbs (with paint of course).

    Thats rather funny. Probably will wind up 23lbs or so total without any deliberate attempts to go "light" (tires are very heavy actually - could easily drop a full pound with rocket ron 2.1's, but how is that fun?).


    Heres the build list so far:


    - Giant NRS 1 2000, size small.
    - SID XC rear shock.
    - Rockshox Reba RL 100mm travel 27.5 fork with 15mm axle, tapered steerer.
    - Hope 44mm tapered headset (bottom cup external).
    - Thomson 100mm x 0 stem 31.8 clamp.
    - Deng Fu carbon bar 580mm (this will get tossed when I find a nice handlebar on sale).
    - Hope race evo X2 brakes.
    - rt76 rotors 160mm.
    - Thomson covert dropper 30.9 125mm travel.
    - 90's Flite saddle with new EVA foam and leather.
    - M780 XT 10 speed shifter pod.
    - M786 XT GS 10 speed rear derailleur.
    - M771 11-34 10 speed cassette.
    - Hope pro 4 straight pull hubs.
    - DT comp race spokes.
    - blackspire sub 420 pedals and XT m780 pedals.
    - Schwalbe nobby nic 2.35 evo addix tire.
    - DT ex471 rims.

    I have not decided what crank to use - race face turbine/hope BB, shimano SLX/BB52, or search for something else online.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    When I redid mine, it was due to the rear hub. The original Formula hub was shot. I had performed a Havana grade repair on it before its last race in 2013. The pawls were shot so I modified some DT Swiss ones to work and "machined" a couple of spacers to put it together. Its a miracle it survived the race. But when I decided to revive the thing, the rear hub had to be replaced. So I put a Hope Pro 4 on the back, mainly because I didn't want to replace the Mavic rims. However, the bike came with 24 spoke rims, so I bought one of the few 24 spoke 135mm hubs out there. While I was at it, I added the XD driver. I forgot how fun it was to lace a wheel from scratch. I hardily endorse the choice of hubs.

    Where I also put money into the bike was the handlebars and stem. As this bike is a training/trainer bike, I wanted to modernize the fit and make it a bit more playful than a full XC racer normally is. So I looked at seat position, reach (to the handlebar), stack (to the handlebar), handlebar width and even Lee McCormack's Rider Area Distance (RAD).


    With the fork, I to went 100mm from the stock 80mm. This slackened the head and seat tube angles by just over a degree. So HT is about 69 and ST is about 71. The fork offset remained the same for my 26" forks, but the axle to crown measurement went from 451mm to 473mm. With your setup, you'll be going from a 39mm offset to a 42mm offset, but most importantly, from a 451mm axle to crown to 487mm. With a 26" wheel up front on that 27.5 fork, you will slacken the HT angle down to 68 degrees or so. The seat tube angle will follow which will require moving the seat forward to stay where you need to be over the pedals. So watch your reach. The 100mm stem helps, but it likely had a 120mm stem to start with. Stack changes dramatically as well. I'd wait to cut down the fork until you are really comfortable with where things are. Those are some big changes to your bike.


    For mine, I actually wanted a more upright riding position so I set mine up with the bars just lower than the seat. I went from a 120mm stem to a 60mm, 6 degree stem. I widened the bars from 580mm to 725mm with a 19mm rise. The bike is set up optimally for RAD, witch is not the most advantageous for pure cross county, but with the dropper, and without being so stretched out, it is much better on the descents. And I find it much more fun. I also made sure the seat was correctly positioned relative to the BB. The fit is pretty good now and I can get properly low over the back tire. I modeled the whole mess in CAD before I pulled the trigger on the bars and stem.


    Old Ag
    Last edited by Old Ag; 02-28-2019 at 07:55 AM.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    So I just mapped out the geometry. Also turns out my Thomson stem is 110mm.

    My original stem was 135mm.

    (edit math error)

    Original angles were 70 head tube and 72 seat. With the 27.5 reba we end up with 67.9 head and 69.9 seat. We get 6.5mm bb drop.

    Original stack was 550mm and reach was 396mm.
    New stack is 564mm, reach is 376mm.

    So, taller, but shorter, with a shorter stem.

    In comparison, the reach on my GT is 404mm with a 70mm stem and stack is 604mm plus 20mm of headset spacers. It's actually slightly less stack more reach now cause i put a fork thats about 10mm shorter than the stock. The gt has much longer chainstays at 440mm. 68.5 degree head angle and 72.7 seat.

    So, it should actually "fit" very similar but the giant will have lower bars, and more weight towards the rear axle especially when seated.

    Should be interesting.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well i think every part is either here or on the way. Anodising will be going out friday. YAY.

    Now, what do i do for decals....

  51. #51
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Well i think every part is either here or on the way. Anodising will be going out friday. YAY.

    Now, what do i do for decals....
    Maybe these, just to confuse people.

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-huffy_racing_500_1024_lg.jpg
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    huffy was never a thing here. raleigh, ccm, cervelo, and supercycle are the "shame" bikes here :P

    I'm trying to figure out how they print on DT wheel sets and shimano cranks. weather its a decal of some sort, or maybe its just silk screened. I'm coming up with nothing.

  53. #53
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    huffy was never a thing here. raleigh, ccm, cervelo, and supercycle are the "shame" bikes here :P

    I'm trying to figure out how they print on DT wheel sets and shimano cranks. weather its a decal of some sort, or maybe its just silk screened. I'm coming up with nothing.
    A lot of wheels have decals, frames as well (better ones are clearcoated over). When I repainted an old frame I found ebay had replacement decals in a good variety of colors that look close enough to original. If I do it again I may just put on some of the "shame" variety for giggles. I used to have a Specialized helmet that I removed the "iz". Apparently my sense of humor is a little different than most.

    Anyway, search google or ebay with the name of the bike and decals and it'll surely turn up something. Or go out on your own. It's your bike.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Most wheels have stickers (vinyl).

    Turns out at least some of the "decal" ones are in fact screen printed INTO the anodising then sealed in the same process. That's something i cant actually do. I'm still not sure how shimano is doing it, probably directly screen printed in a type of paint. Definitely not sealed into the anodising as they can be rubbed away witout harming the crank.

    Hmmm

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    So DT DOES use a heat cured waterslide decal on their aluminium wheels. That's a start. Now where can I get some printed!

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    These seem to be it.
    https://www.tslgraphics.com/products...erslide-decals

    Like a normal waterslide, but they you peel off the film and bake it. Now i have to draw some stuff up and get a quote.

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Got my seals.. woo. Now to see if i can get this shock happy tonight.

    also got a few parts on the delivery truck as well.

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17
    Good luck! If the seals don't work, its not my fault!

    Old Ag

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ag View Post
    Good luck! If the seals don't work, its not my fault!

    Old Ag
    !!!! yer not gonna get off that easily :P

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well you dodged a bullet. It fits!
    I need to clean it a little more and slather it with judy butter still, but the seal fits, and seals.

    i think my next step is to email those decal people, and see what they can make. Anodising will be finihes late next week, and most of not all of my parts will be on hand by then. AND its going to be warm (disclaimer: warm in march for here is anything above -5C)


  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Got my Thomson dropper. As it turns out, it fits without any reaming. So that's one less thing to do. I need to drill the holes to route the cable now.

    I think what im going to do is drill from behind the seat tube, through to the seat tube / down tube connection above the BB. rather than trying to somehow drill from inside the bb shell. it wont compromise anything in that area of the frame and will make things easy.

    Now where do i get the little internal cable routing stop thingies.

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Built the front wheel. woo. Straight pull spokes are mildy annoying, but it went together fine.

    Hope pro 4 straight pull hubs, dt comp race black spokes, and DT XR331 27.5 rims.

    Yup, i went 27.5 in the end. Mostly cause i can use these wheels on my other bikes, and the 2.35 nobby nic 26" tires I have wont fit well in the end as i think they will rub on the drive side chain stay.

    I got thunder burt 2.1 tires, and pretty much turned out exactly as I expected, tire diameter is a little smaller than my x one cross tires, which fit with a few mm to spare on the giant frame. I cant properly fit them til I have bushings made, but its looking like 4-5mm clearance on top of the tires. Good enough for what I ride. Tires are narrow by modern standards, but should be pretty good at 25-30psi.

    Tires were 500/504 grams. vs 720g each for the 26er nobby nics. Rims are 355 grams each vs 480g for the ex471. So a full 1.5lbs lighter this way.


    Next step is working out the dropper routing. I dislike both the Thomson cable, and the Thomson thumb lever. FAR too much force needed and it get worst if you put any tight bends into the cable. So I have an XT front shifter and optislick cable. I need to figure out some sort of cable end or coupling as both the post and shifter expect the ball end of the cable and have no room to create some sort of set screw end. HMMMMM.

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Rear wheel built. popped it into the seatstay section of the rear triangle. about 6mm minimum clearance. That's quite fine. Chainstays looks like it should be at least 5mm as well.

    Im quite pleased with that

    Gives me a good visual sense of the final geometry as well. Fork/head angle is basically equal to my GT. Seat is slacker, but puts my seat in exactly the the same spot as the GT (distance from bars to seat).

    I shall take some pictures tomorrow of this monstrosity after its fully mocked up with some temporary plastic bushings.

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    So I scored lots of deals to put this bike together, but I think this is the best one of all. Im only annoyed I didn't buy an extra one for the $60 they were listed at - cause they are all $150-$200 now! doh!

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-crankmt700.jpg


    This the MT700 crank. Its basically the SLX m7000 crank before SLX came out. shape is slightly different (nicer I think), its all satin anodised black, laser etched logo (cant rub off). Also surprisingly, its lighter than the slx and xt cranks. 650g with the blackspire 30t ring and no BB.

    Anyone need some shiny new 11s slx 2x rings? :P

  65. #65
    Rod
    Rod is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    5,440
    After all the thought you put into this I can't wait to see it finished. I loved the updated NRS, which was the anthem.

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Thanks. I want to see it finished too! :P Its still snowing here though, so, im not in a rush.

    I'm Machining a little cable end to make the Thomson dropper use the XT front shifter. It's basically a cable cross drilled tube, cable goes in one end, out the cross drilled side. The other end has a set screw that locks the cable. If I've done everything right, it should install easily. Just need an M2.5 set screw tap and drill bit. Could have sworn i had one but nope.

    Already drilled the downtube to run the cable. It turned out that the cable can run through the BB shell above the spindle with no alterations or holes.

    Once its fully mocked up, ill send it out with the anodising batch. I am waiting for some machined parts for work stuff to go into the anodising run, so i havent anodised the frame yet. It actually kinda looks nice raw :P

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Turcite rod stock and bearings will be here tomorrow. $27us for the turcite, but its 1 foot long so it will last a lifetime of new bushings. They didn't have any stainless bearings, so I just went with standard sealed ones. Should last a while anyway.

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Weighed what I have assembled, plus the parts not yet on it. 23.2-23.5 lbs it will end up at depending how long cables and chain end up. That's with XT pedals. Not bad at all given I didn't deliberately buy anything just because it was "light".

    VS my hardtail, its almost 1lb lighter, even though its FS and has a dropper. Kinda funny.

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Got my bearings and my turcite.

    Installed the lower bearings and the link bearings. Temporarily installed the old bushings in the horst link. The last pivot is floating right now. The bearings were so tiny and crap in there, I am not going to buy new ones. I am instead going to make a whole new turcite bushing for that pivot.

    You can see the tire clearance now properly. Its very good! I expected less at the bottom. Top is enough to clear a little mud. These are thunder burt 2.1 tires on 20mm inner width rims (XR331). Very low knobs. I expect a 2.1 rocket ron or racing ralph would also fit, but will be much tighter at the top. A 2.25 thunder burt might also work barely. Anything wider or with big knobbies and you'll be rubbing the sides at the chainstays and rubbing the top at the seat stays.

    So, anyone with an NRS, this is what you can get away with.

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-clearance2.jpgRessurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-clearance1.jpg

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Upper bushings made.

    This is Turcite A material. Cuts lovely. Forks, shocks, and frame pivots are usually made from it these days. You may see a red turcite. That's turcite X. Its lower friction, but much softer so not the best for pivots.


    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190321_004421.jpg
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190321_010250.jpg
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190321_130938.jpg
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190321_131336.jpg
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190321_211620.jpg

    Now I need to machine an inner aluminium pivot for the new bushing to ride on, since we got rid of the original ball bearing.
    Last edited by smashysmashy; 03-21-2019 at 07:50 PM.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Redlands R&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    774
    I need to work with you and learn how to do this machining of my own bushings. Think of all the old stuff I could rehab!
    Really like what you are doing, it is amazing!

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Thanks. Its pretty easy, once you own all the tools. My shop is in storage, so the only thing I have available is my tiny lathe.

    So I cant make this right now:
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-nrs_link-v22.jpg
    (unless I want to pay someone else a lot of money)


  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    I admire lazy bike designers. The pivot spacer those bushings ride on is just a chainring bolt spacer - which I happen to have lying around in exactly the right length.


    So that's the upper pivot 100% complete.

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I admire lazy bike designers. The pivot spacer those bushings ride on is just a chainring bolt spacer
    Why design a new part when an existing one is perfect for the job? Not lazy, sensible.

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    XT shifter runs my dropper now. Machined a little set screw cable end for the post side. I need pull the cable a bit tighter as I ran out of barrel adjuster movement, but it works. I have not removed the "click" in the shifter yet. I have to pull the whole thing apart again so ill get it all fine tuned then. For now I should be able to test ride it and dial in the shock tomorrow. Woot.

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190322_225224.jpg
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190322_225339.jpg

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Is that cable end made of alloy?

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Steel.

  78. #78
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Now you're just being ridiculous. Machined a part that you can get off the shelf for probably $0.25.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Now you're just being ridiculous. Machined a part that you can get off the shelf for probably $0.25.
    link?

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    This xt shifter works pretty great. It's an M780 (10 speed). It has a little switch to make it 2 or 3 clicks. the "2" position locks out what would have been the smallest ring. M8000 doesnt have this switch (or at least not externally). SLX 10 speed does have this switch.

    As a result, you can unlock that first position, install the cable in the post with slack, then click the shifter to set it at "zero tension", and flip the switch. Then its in perfect position to actuate the post. Pushing half way is a slow release. 3/4 is fast, and if you push all the way to click the shifter, it can be left open for adjustments. I'm quite pleased with that.

    Just make sure you dont click the "next" gear up and push too hard, as you can pull the cable out of the post end. I need to make a new end pice at a later date with some tighter tolerances on the cable hole for better grip. But this will work for now.

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    link?
    If you look on eBay you can get a variety of barrel cable stops. I bought one for my son's dropper. Still impressed by your skill and dedication. Few people on here could do what you're doing so I wouldn't take criticism too seriously if I were you.

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Thanks. I've not found a cable stop that would fit here. The Thomson uses the shifter end and absolutely nothing else will fit in there. not 1mm longer, or 0.1mm fatter. Otherwise I wouldn't have made my own

    That's why I have ground the cable on the side, it would not fit in if I didn't. So a stop with a set screw on the side - which is common - would never fit. Mine has the cable make a turn out the side, and the set screw from the end wedges it.

    If you used an older shifter like an 8 speed XTR (happen to have one on my desk) you could put the stop in the shifter, and have MUCH more room for a larger end with side set screw.

    But if someone DOES find one exactly the same size as a shifter cable end, please link it. I'm sure other people would like to do this who don't have lathes :P

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Thanks. I've not found a cable stop that would fit here. The Thomson uses the shifter end and absolutely nothing else will fit in there.
    There is a cable inside the Specialized Command Post dropper that is like that. The socket the cable end fits in is too narrow for even a shifter cable end to fit in. I got a cable from Specialized but I still don't know what sort of cable that is.

  84. #84
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    link?
    Here's one. Sorry it's $1.40 though...
    moped mini knarp cable stop

    I didn't bother finishing the thread where I originally found it since I don't need it, but here's the source.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Yeah, that's not even close to the right thing. Read what I wrote above

  86. #86
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Yeah, that's not even close to the right thing. Read what I wrote above
    It's used in a Thomson Covert post and confirmed to work (there's a video). Wha'd I miss?
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    I see one where the guy put a cable stop sideways, but id expect that to cause some serious damage in the long term. the puller is delicate.


    Mines fine took less tan 3 minutes to make. So all good.

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Took it for a test ride. Its a bike. :x
    Need to do a few more tweaks til its properly ridable. Also need a new shock pumpm the old one is leaking faster than it pumps. Shifting is not 100%. i think i need to reduce the clutch force. Shifts fine on the stand, but pops in the middle gears shifting under torque.

    Looks like it might be nice enough to take it off road on thursday or friday.

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    I also need the little sleeves that hold the hydraulic hoses to the frame. The local shops have them, but theirs don't seem to fit. Does anyone know the "right" ones for this frame?

  90. #90
    Rod
    Rod is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    5,440
    Incredible precision, wow.

  91. #91
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I also need the little sleeves that hold the hydraulic hoses to the frame. The local shops have them, but theirs don't seem to fit. Does anyone know the "right" ones for this frame?
    If I say just use zip ties, I know you'll come up with some convoluted reason to machine something out of unobtanium that may or may not work marginally better.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    *puts the lathe bits and and titanium bar stock behind his back*

    um....

    Actually, I just put scotch tape on he hose and slid it into the stops.
    :P

  93. #93
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    *puts the lathe bits and and titanium bar stock behind his back*

    um....

    Actually, I just put scotch tape on he hose and slid it into the stops.
    :P
    Haha, nice...what you really should consider (if you haven't yet) is making sure to get some frame protection on there to keep the work you've done looking good for longer.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well its being anodised black, so it will be durable enough.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: theMISSIONARY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    243
    i have a 2004 NRS 1 composite that i paid bugger all for some years ago,its had a couple of changes over time.
    the Suspension i have always viewed it as a HT with some give and if you expect more then you will be disappointed.
    my local riding has plenty of rock and good technical 10-15min climbs and i find it climbs far better than my 2016 Reign( sh*t really ) so i use it now and then.

    its going to get replaced soon and the frame hung on the wall.


    currently

    - Giant NRS 1 composite 2004 medium
    - Fox float R
    - Rockshox Reba Race 100mm 26"
    - 760mm bar from a Norco sight
    - Race face stem 90mm
    - Shimano deore brakes 180mm rotors
    - Crankbro saddle
    - Generic seat post,had a dropper killed it
    - XO grip shift 10spd
    - GX 10spd derailleur
    - Sunrace 11-42 10spd
    - absoluteBlack oval chainring 32t
    - Mavix 819 wheel set
    - NC-17 Sudpin III S-Pro Platform Pedals
    - Schwalbe Black Jacks set up tubeless

    ill see if i can post a pic but this place gives me issue with image posting
    still had the 2x10 in this pic

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-img_20180816_160146-2-.jpg
    Last edited by theMISSIONARY; 06-07-2019 at 03:31 PM.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Crap phone picture. Looks like a bike... :P
    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on "mods" (27.5, shocks, fork)-20190326_154825.jpg

  97. #97
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Crap phone picture. Looks like a bike... :P
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20190326_154825.jpg 
Views:	97 
Size:	367.7 KB 
ID:	1244009
    I think the anodization wore off. Otherwise, cool retro bike.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    27
    interesting thread , looking forward to seeing the finished article...... :-)

    resurrecting an old bike rarely makes financial sense but is often an enjoyable challenge.

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Well, the financial side is tricky. what i have is a new bike. An equal new bike from giant is $5000+. I paid less than $2000. Selling everything i already has would not have gotten me more than a few hundred. So, id say it made lots of financial sense in this case.

    One can argue about the geometry and design i suppose, but the quality of this frame is not worse than an new giant anthem.

  100. #100
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Well, the financial side is tricky. what i have is a new bike. An equal new bike from giant is $5000+. I paid less than $2000. Selling everything i already has would not have gotten me more than a few hundred. So, id say it made lots of financial sense in this case.

    One can argue about the geometry and design i suppose, but the quality of this frame is not worse than an new giant anthem.
    An "equal" new bike from Giant would be nowhere near $5K. First off, an Anthem retails for just over $3K (2019 Anthem 1 NX Eagle). Second, that bike is nowhere close to being as capable as an Anthem. I should know, I've owned/ridden both. What would've made financial (and performance) sense would have been to pick up a leftover 2018 for around $2200 with a warranty, shop support and modern components.

    Want something closer to "equal" but still way better? Get a Giant Stance 1 for $1750 or Stance 2 for $1550. Brand new. Done. No arguing or struggle needed. End of story.

    But it's not as fun for tinkerer types to do it that way...so there's that.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  101. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    An "equal" new bike from Giant would be nowhere near $5K. First off, an Anthem retails for just over $3K (2019 Anthem 1 NX Eagle). Second, that bike is nowhere close to being as capable as an Anthem. I should know, I've owned/ridden both. What would've made financial (and performance) sense would have been to pick up a leftover 2018 for around $2200 with a warranty, shop support and modern components.

    Want something closer to "equal" but still way better? Get a Giant Stance 1 for $1750 or Stance 2 for $1550. Brand new. Done. No arguing or struggle needed. End of story.

    But it's not as fun for tinkerer types to do it that way...so there's that.
    yeah... no.

    Anthem with GX eagle is $4599 and would still need a dropper, new wheels, and pedals to be comparable - so, over 5k as I said (edit, actually that bike has very nice wheels, but its still 5k)

    Stance 2 is $2100, and would be a project frame, like the NRS and need all the same new parts. So, $4k (minus $250 on ebay for the stuff it came with)

  102. #102
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    yeah... no.

    Anthem with GX eagle is $4599 and would still need a dropper, new wheels, and pedals to be comparable - so, over 5k as I said (edit, actually that bike has very nice wheels, but its still 5k)

    Stance 2 is $2100, and would be a project frame, like the NRS and need all the same new parts. So, $4k (minus $250 on ebay for the stuff it came with)
    Good try, but still so wrong. The $4600 bike you're talking about has a carbon frame and wheels. Quit comparing top of the line to a 20year old bike. They're not even in the same league.

    Even if you pop for an Eagle GX upgrade (I'm so not into Eagle, but that's another story...put an 11spd Shimano XT drivetrain on it for <$300 and it'd be perfect), for a bike that would decimate the NRS in everything but the harsh ride dept. And someone else will put it together so you can be out riding instead of fiddling around and arguing on the interwebs.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  103. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    I think there is some confusions here.
    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/anthem-29-1

    Aluminium anthem 29. $4599.
    The carbon anthem is $5499 (gx) and $10999 (xtr 9100)


    Anyway... Im bored

  104. #104
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I think there is some confusions here.
    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/anthem-29-1

    Aluminium anthem 29. $4599.
    The carbon anthem is $5499 (gx) and $10999 (xtr 9100)


    Anyway... Im bored
    You may be confused. Alu anthem in the link I posted...$3150. Maybe a picture would make it easier. The metallic green actually looks nicer in person. Maybe your next bike.

    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on &quot;mods&quot; (27.5, shocks, fork)-19-anthem.jpg
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  105. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    That bike isn't on the giant website. The green 27.5 trail bike one is an SLX equipped bike here, and $3200.
    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/bikes-anthem

    Its a nice bike, I've looked at it in real life, but, like the stance, would be a frame project. I'd have to replace almost everything and still spend most of my $2000 to get it to where the NRS is.

    Perhaps I should translate for the "murica first" crowd... I paid less than $1400USD to do up the NRS. That better? :P

    You've put a good effort in, but trust me I've already looked at all these options and they all cost far more.

  106. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,985
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    That bike isn't on the giant website. The green 27.5 trail bike one is an SLX equipped bike here, and $3200.
    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/bikes-anthem

    Its a nice bike, I've looked at it in real life, but, like the stance, would be a frame project. I'd have to replace almost everything and still spend most of my $2000 to get it to where the NRS is.

    Perhaps I should translate for the "murica first" crowd... I paid less than $1400USD to do up the NRS. That better?

    You've put a good effort in, but trust me I've already looked at all these options and they all cost far more.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    You may be confused. Alu anthem in the link I posted...$3150. Maybe a picture would make it easier. The metallic green actually looks nicer in person. Maybe your next bike.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	19 Anthem.JPG 
Views:	57 
Size:	49.5 KB 
ID:	1244159
    Sorry but you're both squashed mangos for arguing about msrps in two different countries with different currencies.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  107. #107
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    That bike isn't on the giant website. The green 27.5 trail bike one is an SLX equipped bike here, and $3200.
    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/bikes-anthem

    Its a nice bike, I've looked at it in real life, but, like the stance, would be a frame project. I'd have to replace almost everything and still spend most of my $2000 to get it to where the NRS is.

    Perhaps I should translate for the "murica first" crowd... I paid less than $1400USD to do up the NRS. That better? :P

    You've put a good effort in, but trust me I've already looked at all these options and they all cost far more.
    You put in a good effort with the build, but you're clearly off in the USD dept and the paying attention dept. I'd take that SLX build for ~$2400 USD and wouldn't look back. It really is that much better.

    Wanna know how much I have into my heavily upgraded '14 Giant Trance (Fox 34, Monarch Debonair, custom built wheels with Hope Pro4 hubs, X0 carbon crank, Deity bar, and on and on)? Here's a hint. It's about $1500 USD. Or my '08 Santa Cruz Blur LT? About half that for an XT build. Yeah, that's also better...mostly because I've been riding them instead of bragging about how much better they are than a top end bike. Just friggin drop your invalid argument and enjoy what you've got. Sheesh!
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  108. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    It's not really about how these bikes compare in monetary terms, it's about how they ride.

    I friend or mine has an NRS, he has two of them actually, and I've ridden one. The best way I can describe the ride is dated. The bike rides like a nineties hard-tail. Light bike and fine for really tame, flat rides but to be honest, a modern hard-tail would still be preferable.

    On anything rough and fast, especially anything pointing downwards, and a more modern bike is so much better it's not funny. Much more stable and planted feeling.

    I really admire what you've done with this bike and the skill that you have. It's a cool thing to have done but personally, I wouldn't have done it. I wouldn't have sunk the time and money into it because what you end up with is just too dated in performance terms.

  109. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    You put in a good effort with the build, but you're clearly off in the USD dept and the paying attention dept. I'd take that SLX build for ~$2400 USD and wouldn't look back. It really is that much better.
    If i wanted to match the spec of that SLX anthem, i could have spent $500US all in. But that wasnt my goal.

    I never once bragged it was better than a top end new bike. I said i paid a lot less than I would have to get an equally specced new top end bike and therefore the cost is justified, even if the frame is considered dated. Remember, I LIKE the NRS, it rides how i want and expect it to ride. Whether YOU like it or not isnt the least bit relevant.
    Last edited by smashysmashy; 03-28-2019 at 11:03 AM.

  110. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    It's not really about how these bikes compare in monetary terms, it's about how they ride.

    This last discussion was strictly about the monetary terms. We could have done without it


    On the ride though strictly (a proper topic)... Well, we all have our own opinion of the NRS. I happen to like it. Its an XC bike, its not going to whistler

    BUT... i have now changed it in a few major ways, for good or bad we'll find out over the next few weeks as the trails become ridable here.

    - The new fork has slackened off the angles considerable making it the same as a more modern XC/trail bike. Almost the same as the green anthem. This should help with stablity.

    - The wheelbase became longer slightly with the taller fork. Again, possibly more stablity.

    - Its also pushed the BB upwards... about 14mm taller than the green anthem. So far, im not sure i notice, but generally we think lower is more stable at least for steep descents.

    - Taller fork and slacker seat angle and short(er) stem puts weight lower and further back - less hunched over the bars. This i can already tell has made it easier to pull up, manual, etc (i suck at manuals it should be noted).

    - Wider bars though not related to the frame help alot it making it feel stable.

    - Same with the dropper, not a frame thing, but helps it in handling things pointing down much.

    - One thing that has not changed is the top tube being short. Giants are always short, this one is even shorter than most. This puts me further over the front axle than a newer bike with a stubby stem would. about 25mm less reach than the green anthem. Combined with the other changes, i dont know yet if the length is made more stable for descending or climbing. It's certainly less than a new bike though - but is it less enough to care i dont know yet.

    So, Im not 100% sure it feels like a "90's hardtail" compared to my 2018 hardtail. I do like my 2018 hardtail, it is confidence inspiring down hills and holds well up hills. But i find its long stays and long front end hard to move around. Hard to lift the front wheel when needed.

    We shall see soon enough.

  111. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    On the ride though strictly (a proper topic)... Well, we all have our own opinion of the NRS. I happen to like it.
    All that counts in the end. There is certainly satisfaction simply from the fact you built it yourself, although that can be a worry too. Years ago I spent time make a nice looking RC truck but it was disappointing when the body got smashed up.

  112. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    All that counts in the end. There is certainly satisfaction simply from the fact you built it yourself, although that can be a worry too. Years ago I spent time make a nice looking RC truck but it was disappointing when the body got smashed up.
    HA, I ran my RC car with no body, cause I destroyed 2 in like 4 minutes. :P


    Anyhow, heres a drawing of the geometry of the "new" NRS. its in blue. the red is the geometry of my 2018 gt pantera hardtail.


    Very weirdly, not that different. Biggest things are the length, and the height of the saddle. On paper, the GT will be more friendly to descend on. We'll see how that works out in reality as the differences aren't really massive.

    I should overlay the anthem and see where that ends up later.


    Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on &quot;mods&quot; (27.5, shocks, fork)-nrs_geo.jpg

  113. #113
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,405
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    If i wanted to match the spec of that SLX anthem, i could have spent $500US all in. But that wasnt my goal.

    I never once bragged it was better than a top end new bike. I said i paid a lot less than I would have to get an equally specced new top end bike and therefore the cost is justified, even if the frame is considered dated. Remember, I LIKE the NRS, it rides how i want and expect it to ride. Whether YOU like it or not isnt the least bit relevant.
    Went riding again today. Considerably more enjoyable than spending time with this drivel. Good luck with the delusions.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

  114. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Went riding again today. Considerably more enjoyable than spending time with this drivel. Good luck with the delusions.
    I've only ridden the NRS a few hours so far to get the settings of everything tweaked. I know, it's a hard thought, but some people like different things than you, ride different trails than you, and gasp, dont care what you think about it.

    So go ride, and stop poluting this thread.

  115. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I know, it's a hard thought, but some people like different things than you, ride different trails than you, and gasp, don't care what you think about it.
    Good for you dude. I hope you get to ride your 'new' bike for many years to come. Maybe it's not the latest and greatest, maybe you've not done what I would do but if it's special to you and puts a smile on your face you've got something a lot of riders will never have. Enjoy it :0)

  116. #116
    Bicyclochondriac.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    13,901
    I will start be first saying that what you are doing is freaking awesome! As with most vintage restoration/updates, it makes little practical sense, but it does not need to. This is clearly a labor of love. You are doing it because you want to and you can. If the NRS (and the restoration of it) brings you joy, then that is all that matters.

    That said, I would not bother trying to justify this on financial grounds. The Anthem is definitely NOT comparable to it. It is a completely different animal. A better (yet still deeply flawed) comparison would be a similarly speced FS bike from Bikes Direct. But even those are not good comparisons because there IS nothing comparable to the NRS. The design was a very peculiar and short-lived dead end. If you happen to be one of the few people who like it, then it is pointless comparing it to other designs because there are none others like it.

    An analogy: If one really loves 8-track tapes, and really wants an 8-track tape player, there is no point in justifying refurbishing one by comparing the price to a new CD player.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  117. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    I put the green anthem over my NRS drawing... the relation of the BB and rear wheel and handlebar are almost identical. head angle very similar, and reach is a fair bit longer. Actually closer to the "new" NRS than the hard tail is. "long vs short" is really all that's in it geometry wise.

  118. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,987
    I find tha bikes can look very similar on paper but feel very different to ride. It doesn't take much of a change to really alter the handling.

    But t doesn't matter anyway. If you like the way the bike rides who cares what the geometry looks like?

  119. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Oh, i dont "care". I'm just curious. I find geometry interesting.

  120. #120
    Bicyclochondriac.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    13,901
    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    I put the green anthem over my NRS drawing... the relation of the BB and rear wheel and handlebar are almost identical. head angle very similar, and reach is a fair bit longer. Actually closer to the "new" NRS than the hard tail is. "long vs short" is really all that's in it geometry wise.
    Have you seen this:
    https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/giant-nrs-2003/

    If accurate, you can use it to compare the geo much more accurately than with sketches.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  121. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Have you seen this:
    https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/giant-nrs-2003/

    If accurate, you can use it to compare the geo much more accurately than with sketches.
    Different model year, which has different geometry.

    My cad drawing is completely accurate.

  122. #122
    MarkyMark
    Reputation: MarkMass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,352
    Awesome thread!

    I think you're going to like your new/old bike a lot. I had an early 2000s NRSAir which I loved. I think having a dropper would have extended it's time in my stable.

    I'm a keyboard jockey, but I love working with my hands and tools around the house and especially on my bikes. Working on things, figuring it out, and putting in sweat equity seems to make everything more worthwhile. I'm jealous of your tools and impressed with your ability to make your own bushings (learned about Turcite A from you) and other bits. I just drilled out some aluminium derailleur cable stops to run uninterrupted housing on an old bike last week and plan on doing the same on an old Litespeed Ti HT frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by smashysmashy View Post
    Oh, i dont "care". I'm just curious. I find geometry interesting.

  123. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    Took this bike out for its first "real" off road ride. Bout 2 hours on the trails.

    Dropper makes the biggest difference. Why didnt i already have one? :P

    I had the shock set up on the borderline of sag and it was really nice i think. Stiffens on climbing and moves under everthing else. It dosnt "feel" like its bobbing. I may have bottomed the rear out once on a G out cause i think i heard the tire hit the seat tube. But i dont see any evidence of rubbing, so maybe that was something else.

    Im gonna bring my shock pump on the trail next time and try some different things.

  124. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation: theMISSIONARY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    243
    Last ride on mine as i have stripped it for the 1x10(32t x11-42 sunrace) etc for another project bike.... a Octane prone 27.5(using the original wheels off my Reign)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ressurecting my Giant NRS _ need thoughts and opinions on &quot;mods&quot; (27.5, shocks, fork)-nrs1-1x10.jpg  


  125. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    196
    So, this bike is gone to sleep for the season.
    It worked out well overall. A few things to tweak for next year.

    1: The stem needs to be shorter and taller. It feels "weird" being over the bars that far after transitioning from my other bikes. Its not bad, if it was my only bike id just get used to it. but its not. Anyone want to trade straight up a Thomson 0x110 for a 70 with a rise?

    2: The thunder burt tires leak out the sidewalls.. STILL. I need to pull them off and figure out if I can do a bit of coating on the inside with butyl cement. The tires themselves, when inflated, and great. But not knowing if they will stay inflated for the day is bothersome.

    3: The Thomson dropper lasted 3 rides. Now the cable is so hard to pull it snaps out of my little custom end stop. Technically it still works, but its not "usable". Anyone have one of these, is there a ways to get it back to normal?

    I'm going to paint it over the winter. Decided not to anodise it.

  126. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: theMISSIONARY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    243
    thunder burt tires will probably still hold up but need airing up more often,i had black jacks(Schwalbe) on my wheels and they did the same

Similar Threads

  1. Giant Anthem 29 2018 Actual Weight, Mods, and thoughts?
    By Andrew.c.urban in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-06-2018, 10:26 PM
  2. Surly Ogre Fender Mods/ALL FENDER MODS!!
    By Pynchonite in forum Bikepacking and Bike Expedition
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-13-2015, 09:38 PM
  3. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-13-2005, 05:21 AM
  4. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-05-2005, 06:39 PM
  5. NRS compared to NRS compared to NRS
    By plate in forum Giant
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-07-2004, 01:32 AM

Members who have read this thread: 40

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.