Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?

    So, im moving, and am tossing a whole bunch of things ill never use again up for sale and have got to this frame.

    I ordered it in 2014, tried to build it, but got stumped on the bb30 bottom bracket which did not have a clear bore through. i tried to bond in a bsa adapter in 2 parts but it didn't hold. tossed it into the closet and went about my life.

    These days, I see theres a KCNC (and other) adapter that can thread in a make the thing run a shimano crank. ill have to clean out the bore with a Dremel to remove epoxy, and maybe uses a non permanent Loctite on the new BB, but it seems it will "fix" this frame for about $50cdn.

    Trouble is, I don't really need it....... I have too many bikes already!

    So, how bout we do something fun?

    Some points that are already figured out:

    - we can fit 27.5 tires up to 2.25 on it - or stick with 26, or go road or cross.
    - Ive got a cut down Thomson post, a reamer, and a lathe to make a shim.
    - Ive got the headset bearings for a tapered fork
    - The KCNC bottom bracket will dictate a 24mm crank
    - I have an SDG belair saddle with no foam on it which i can redo with heat formed and carved EVA and leather. I have an embroidery machine as well.
    - i am able to spray 2 pac clear safely, so we can do a proper pro paint job.



    Give me some ideas on what direction to go? Maybe start with the wheel type. I don't have any spear wheels for it. Have you seen any super cheap discount wheels that would be awesome? CRC has some fulcrums for $129cdn shipped, but they are boost and through axle... But I have a lathe…. What if we try to UNBOOST the rear wheel? I converted and slx microspline from 142 to 135qr, but that didn't need brake rotor position modification.

    Anyone have the fulcrums (red zone 5)? care to do some measurements?

    (Remember, this is for fun, entertainment, and the hell of it. Comments about things not being "worth" doing, aren't valid. I'm willing to spend a few hundred bucks for fun)
    Last edited by smashysmashy; 03-14-2020 at 08:01 PM.

  2. #2
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    Fulcrum boost wheels it is...

    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-20200314_025439.jpg

    Hope pro 4 boost QR hub.

    It takes some effort to pry the stays apart by hand while trying to slide the wheel up, but it seems to fit. I should have guessed this cause I put a 135 wheel in my 130mm deng fu road frame and it was fine.

    So ill have to mofidy the rear wheel to be QR. The way I did the SLX was to machine the end caps down 3.5mm and use a 12mm shaft. I think what id do here is the same.

    So that tells us we will have 27.5 tires (mountain or gravel) and we will need a boost fork.

  3. #3
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    after looking for forks, I think were going to end up in the monster cross / gravel direction. Only fork I have is a 120mm suntour XCR B+ and its about 40mm too tall for the frame. And 6 lbs. New forks cost too much to be worth while.

    One thing I have on hand is a brand new Claris 8 speed shifter set, and an almost brand new XT m737 11-30 cassette, and an XTR m900 rear derailleur. (also an ultegra 6500 rear der but its not as cool) But that's $0 spend, so, a good choice. I have an MT700 crank, Bb52 cups, with a 36T blackspire ring. so, an additional $0 spent. I should have a sram PC890 chain with minimal use on it. This will mount up to a gravel style GT grade bar.

    So, now we need to figure out brakes. Obviously the Claris shifters are mechanical. I looks for tiagra and GRX 400 kits, but nothing is available for a fair price (fair being 70% off sale :P).

    Anyone have an opinion on mechanical discs? I only remember the avid ones.. and wish I couldn't remember them.

  4. #4
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    Mechanical discs are very good, but they do take to get the setup dialed and working well. The TRP Spykes are pretty good because both pistons move at the same time, like a hydraulic and that makes setup easier. BUT, I just re-read your post and looks like you are going drop bar shifter? Then get the TRP SPYRE, that is the road pull ratio and it will play nicely with your claris bits. If you can swing it, compressionless brake housing makes a big difference too.
    Silly bike things happening.

  5. #5
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    Thanks. the spyres are a bit pricey (in relative terms) but there's not much in the way of low cost cable brakes I guess (that I would trust my life with). The Claris were paired with some tektro brakes (not trp branded ones) but they are flat mount. I've seen adapters, but they cost almost as much as a spyre caliper. Sigh, haha.

  6. #6
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    looks like I have MD-C510 calipers which are about 1/2 the price of spyre calipers.
    basically, if I could get adapters for $25, it would be cheapest to use them.

    *goes searching*

  7. #7
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    Well I'm gonna wait and see if anything shows up on sale in the next 3-4 weeks, but I expect we'll end up with spyres.

    Now to figure out the fork for $170cdn shipped. Theres a boost carbon fork from china, but, with the virus going on, I expect it may never arrive.

  8. #8
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    First custom made part for this I guess. A Flat mount caliper to post mount adapter.

    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-fm160-v1.jpg

    6061 T6 aluminium, 3.175mm thick, laser cut and bent. 12.5 grams. Min order is $125cdn, which should get me a few dozen - not anodised of course. Ill keep a few and chuck the rest on ebay for $25 a pair methinks (after I test that they are safe enough). These will only fit some frame and forks, but

    This will free up my brake choices to use my tektros, or the new flat mount shimano ice tech ones or whatever else comes on sale.

  9. #9
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    Hmmmm

    So, since were home hiding from the virus ive been reconfiguring and building up bikes.

    I got the fulcrum wheels on hand. They are really well made. Bearings are like butter. I CAN mod the rear wheel to be QR, however, it would be a permanent mod, (well, youd need a new axle to go back and I don't see them for sale, only 135mm). Id need to turn off 3.5mm on the disc side, and about 2mm on the drive side, and then turn the drive side end cap.

    I guess the boost version they never bothered to make convertible.

    The good thing is that these are designed by geniuses. The axle come out, the "cup and cone" bearings are left inside with their seals. Kinda want an excuse to buy another set, haha.

  10. #10
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    Alrighty. I decided to use the wheels from my GT grade instead. Was going to sell them but meh, this is easier. Can use the fulcrums for something else later.

    I machined down the axle on the GT wheel rear hub (formula cartridge bearing type) and end caps to 135, and then machined a 12mm QR sub axle from some scrap 2024 aluminium. Works like a charm. Made a sub axle for the front. The front is a cup and cone wheel and is... shite. Brand new and its crap. Why did they not spend the $3 for the better front hub? I'm going to see if I can upgrade the front hub to a sealed bearing. Looks viable looking at the axle. May not be worth the effort. Wheel does work after all, its just gritty feeling.

    I set the wheels up tubeless with tuck tape, and some not totally worn out G one speed 30c tires.

    I designed a BSA adapter after seeing Hamibini's latest video retrofitting a look bb50 frame. One piece 6061, presses in on the one side, and then a matching pressed in collar on the other. Epoxied in permanent. Then I can just use a shimano BB. Will make servicing for whoever ends up with this bike in the future "standard". This will be the next thing I have to make today or tomorrow.

    The fork steerer is too short by 6 or 7 mm. I have to machine a custom headset top cap, and then a steerer extension. I'm not sure on the extension though. Anyone ever use one on a carbon fork? The inside of the fork is not smooth/round/concentric. I can slather it with epoxy, but i'm not sure that gives me anything functional in the end. Seems not enough precision for this to work well.

    I also ordered some paint. Should be here soon if the post still delivers..

    Decided to go with the Ultegra 6500 derailleur, xt 8 speed 11-30 cassette, 36T blackspire 1x ring, and the new Claris shifters (which are pretty fricken nice). Gear range goes from 1.2 to 3.27. Not going to be doing heavy off road climbs or 80kph pedalling descents, but, everything in between should be nice. (I spin out at 55kph with that gear).

    All in all this should turn out super nice.

    Ill start posting pics on the weekend as I progress and prep the frame for paint and mods.

  11. #11
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    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-bb1.jpg

    It works!
    Fits the frame too. Eek!

    needs the collar for the drive side, then some epoxy, although I think we should paint first. one less thing to mask later.

  12. #12
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    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-bb2.jpgDeng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-bb3.jpg

    This is actually pretty fricken good as an adapter. the drive side cup clamps the unit in, even if there is no epoxy.

    Beats the crap out of those 1 piece sram adapters (which wont fit in this frame even if it was a good product), or the plastic screw in one.

    Basically, saved a $450 frame from the bin with $8 in aluminium and a couple hours work (I machined it from 2" square solid bar, cause its all I had in the stock bin so it took ages to bore out).

    Fun Fun. now, on to the paint prep this weekend.

  13. #13
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    Well after all that, I realised there was a hole/weak spot in the frame. Been so long I couldn't remember. haha. I guess its technically repairable, but im going to bin the frame.

    Booo.

  14. #14
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    How bad? Where?
    I'm all in favor of repairing it. Brokencarbon has been great for me with repairing some older Trek Superfly frames.
    Silly bike things happening.

  15. #15
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    Top tube, near the isp seat mast. was a weak spot, ive sanded away the area so now its a big hole about 20x40mm. The frame is still strong enough as is, so, I expect a repair is perfectly viable.

    Trick will be getting the supplies while in lockdown. Hm...

  16. #16
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    Don't be mad.....
    Sit down...

    Deep breath...


    I repaired the frame with fibreglass and 5 minute epoxy.



    Shhhhh. It's ok. Take a minute.


    :PDeng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-glass.jpg

  17. #17
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    Now do that to the rest of the frame and say it has a custom "snakeskin" finish!
    Good job!
    Silly bike things happening.

  18. #18
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    haha

    I was thinking I should leave it visible through the paint and make it a feature.. medical bandaid or something. Trying to make it "invisible" will likely be wasted effort and never be quite right.

  19. #19
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    Well, hardware store is open again so I can continue this....

    However, I don't think I'm comfortable giving this frame to anyone. id ride it myself, but I wouldn't want to be responsible for anyone else on it.

    So... what else can we do here?

    I have a Cannondale trail SL1 frame, which is currently built as a 29er mountain bike, with XTR 10 speed and DT 30mm wheels. Not getting any good offers to buy it though, soooo... maybe we turn it back to a gravel bike. This bike makes GREAT gravel bike. I had it built as one before I got a new GT grade.

    Deng fu FM038 ISP... cleaning house, what should i do with it?-gravel.jpg

    So, lets see....

    - Cannondale SL1 frame 135QR rear
    - Carbon QR fork (the one I ran on it as a gravel bike, with new paint)
    - Nuke Proof headset (new, old headset was rusted from winter riding)
    - Cannondale stem
    - GT grade handlebar and tape (new, of my grade)
    - MT800 BB, SLX cranks with blackspire 36T ring
    - Claris 8 speed R2000 STI shifters and cables (new, from the grade)
    - Ultegra 6500 rear derailleur with new pulleys stolen from a broken XT derailleur
    - XT 737 8 speed 11-30 cassette
    - WTB ST i23 / Formula rear wheel with QR135 conversion (from the grade)
    - Schwalbe G one speed tires (worn but still good) set up tubeless
    - Prologo kappa saddle (bought for the cannondale but never used)
    - Cannondale seat post
    - Nuke Proof seat clamp


    Don't need to buy anything, except some tubeless tape. not bad. Then i can give this bike away without any worries.

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