Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 49 of 49
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Idea! Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?

    Whats up Mtbr's!!! I had posted a thread several months ago regarding this same issue ( with zero replies after multiple bumps I gave up) so we are going to try this again =p.
    ISSUE = LOCKOUT ON RST DUECE fork STUCK tried everything.
    I have a 2011 Cannondale Trail SL4, the bike just visited the local shop to see about fixing my front forks stuck lockout mechanism but they were absolutely unable to help me or fix the issue also weren't able to help me find a replacement fork. So i took the bike to another reputable shop they told me the same thing " You need to locate another rst duece fork and we will install it for you". I have searched the internet high and low for a identical replacement with zero luck. At this point guys i really just need to find a replacement ( maybe a fox or something ?) to swap out with this one. I would really like to replace the RST Duece with something higher end ( mainly because i CAN NOT find a 26in rst duece suspension ANYWHERE ) something by fox would be great, if im going to replace this I might as well purchase something high quality, Can a fox fork fit this bike? I had no luck searching for a direct replacement from fox.

    Sorry for the Short story guys just wanted to be thorough really want to get back on the trail it sucks with a stuck lockout = / complete rigid hurts me haha.


    Mtnsrfun

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    Conversion headset will allow you to use a tapered fork,

    or
    RST Deuce MTB Suspension Fork 140mm 15QR 1.5in Gloss Black | Bikewagon
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  3. #3
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    So this is a 1.5 straight head tube? If so I have a Hope reducer headset (1.5 to 1 1/8 top and bottom). I also have a 100mm Reba solo air in mint condition with 7" of steer-tube I could sell you. The headset is free, pay it forward style...just PM and address.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Thank you both for the uber quick replies really appreciate the swiftness =p. Watts888, that 140mm Duece would be a direct bolt on right? no adapters etc?


    So this is a 1.5 straight head tube? If so I have a Hope reducer headset (1.5 to 1 1/8 top and bottom). I also have a 100mm Reba solo air in mint condition with 7" of steer-tube I could sell you. The headset is free, pay it forward style...just PM and address.
    Will pm you shortly to possibly discuss this some more ( pay it forward is awesome much appreciated!!) maybe we can figure something out ( wish I had some parts to barter with = p ).

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    Not sure if it's a direct bolt on. Should be, but cannondale does some funky stuff sometimes. Honestly, I'd look at a better fork and a reducer headset. RST is acceptable to start with, but kind of like the low end suntour forks, it's not something you'd "upgrade" to unless you just wanted to keep mediocre performance with plans on replacing it in a year.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Not sure if it's a direct bolt on. Should be, but cannondale does some funky stuff sometimes. Honestly, I'd look at a better fork and a reducer headset. RST is acceptable to start with, but kind of like the low end suntour forks, it's not something you'd "upgrade" to unless you just wanted to keep mediocre performance with plans on replacing it in a year.
    i see, so looking into a 1.5 to 1 1/8 reducer would be my best bet ? May go with Fox unit not 100% sure though.


    Mtns

    EDIT: this bike will be ridden roughly 7-10 hard trail miles per day during the summer just had the front / rear derailleurs replaced and the rear casset + all new brembo brake pads new brake cables etc.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    yea, you ride this thing hard enough to justify a good fork. Fox, rockshox reba, manitou. Lots of options. The Reba listed above is a good fork (in general, don't know about this specific fork), but have to make sure it has long enough steer tube for your frame/stem and that the axle style is good (QR vs. 15TA)

    Should be plenty of MTBR posts about people converting cannondale headsets. Just search, and you'll find some.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  8. #8
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Couldn't download this to PM...this is the Reba

    Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-img_0212.jpg

  9. #9
    Yeah!
    Reputation: Flamingtaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    1,453
    Hard to pass up free, but If you go with the headset adaptor, you will have to use a 1-1/8" stem, cap, and spacers, so not a free fix if you don't have those laying around.

    If you want to stick with the stem, caps, and spacers you have, you do this:

    Name:  1054116d1457034294t-cannondale-1-5-1-125-custom-mod-steertube_mod_03.jpg
Views: 1414
Size:  38.0 KB

    That's a re-useable adapter I made from aluminum tubing. I've got some left over if you'd like one made.

    I picked up a 2014 QR15 Manitou Minute Expert fork for $200 from CRC in December to replace the failing RST on my 2010 F5. The fork is set to 120mm, and has an axle to crown height of 498mm. This is just under Cannondale's max of 500mm ride height for the Trail SL frame. Stay under this limit not just for the warranty... The steering becomes less crisp, and your hand and butt comes up and back, which raises the center of gravity and moves it rearward. I've found the bike is more prone to lifting climbs now. Probably doesn't help that the fork is 1/2 Lb lighter than the Deuce, but I can let that issue slide

    The cheapest Minute now is the LTD at $340. Also the Marvel Comp if you're a regular weight adult and don't intend to ride DJ or hit massive drops.

    If you are on a tight budget, the RockShox Recon Silver TK and Manitou Match are about $200. The Rockshox XC28 TK is closer to $100, but it's more of a light duty trail fork or extreme duty CX fork. I put that on one of my boy's bikes. He weighs 160 and rides trail at most once a month, and not aggressively. I've loaned the bike out a handful of times to adults, and the consensus each time has been that they could use a sturdier fork.

    There were some RST Deuce's available for about $100 last year, but they were all 140 or 160mm, watch out for that if you come across any.
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    It astounds me how unhelpful or incompetent (it's one of the two.. possibly both) some bike shops can be.

    That's some good info above from Flamingtaco. I'd agree it's a good time for an upgrade. I found the RST Deuce to be an ok fork, but as a coil fork its on the heavier side.

    I replaced mine (on my SL4) with a Manitou Marvel which has been great.
    As above, it's all about how much you want to spend.

    If you end up going with a tapered fork I should be able to give you the info for exactly what headset you need.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Idea!

    Sorry I have been AWALL the past several days guys i just sat down and read the reply's here there is so much good info im having a little issue processing all of it. I Would really like to Get a fox shock if possible ( have found a couple Float models on ebay near $300 That look promising but after hours of reading im still not sure on axel type get ta pared Vs non tapered etc). Not really looking to spend a whole lot more than $300 on this I can budge a little bit though, this may sound like one of those feed me free info questions but could someone possibly link / point out the spacers /stem / other stuff i would need to do this. I was looking at headset adapters etc and came accross the following adapter (https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=12471 ) Would that adapter work with the following fox shock ? FOX SHOCK = New 2015 Fox 32 Float Fork ctd 26" 100mm 9mm Taper $525 Retail | eBay


    Would ultimately like to go with the linked items if possible ( at least the forks ) would be open to other brands of forks as well just steer me in the right direction guys and gals!

    If at all possible i would like to avoid getting a different stem and spacers etc. But Will if its absolutely REQUIRED.


    Thanks for the guidance / great info guys !!!


    Mtns Are Fun


    EDIT: After further research I have came to the conclusion that I am running a 15mm quick release style axle would like to avoid having to get a stem and spacers ....i guess the forks i linked above won't work what about the following -------Rock Shox Reba RL 26" Tapered QR Dual Air MTB Bike Suspension Fork Remote New | eBay Dosnt say the axle diameter says " works with quick release only" im guessing its compatible with my QR type axles ?
    Last edited by Mtns Are Fun; 05-01-2016 at 05:28 PM.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Ok, are the wheels on your bike the stock ones that came with it? If so those are the Maddux DC3.0s or something like that right?

    If that's the case, the front wheel will be a 9mm quick release and not 15mm qr..
    again, if that's right - both of the above forks will work for you.

    BUT you would definitely need to replace the stem and spacers for 1 1/8 stem/spacers (you currently have 1.5 sometimes written as 1 1/2). Or alternatively use flamingtacos idea about the adaptor. I can't comment on this.

    The headset would need replacing also but you may only need to replace the upper headset as the lower part of the fork steerer tube is still 1.5. I MAY BE WRONG ON THAT PART so would be good to hear some opinions from others in this thread about that.

    I know for a fact that the upper headset would need to be replaced - this would work:
    Cane Creek (40 series) ZS49 (28.6 step down) Top

    https://www.bike24.com/p260996.html

    May as well get a good quality headset like the above if you're putting quality forks on your bike.

    The headset adapter you linked to I don't think will work.. Cannondale have some odd head tube diameters on some frames i.e. those that take a headshock. Your headtube is a true 1.5 - thats all you need to know.

    I can also give you the right lower headset model if necessary.

    In regard to the stem and spacers you'll simply need some 1 1/8 spacers (like for like replacement with your current 1.5 ones if you're happy with the current height of the bars) and a 1 1/8 STEERER diameter stem with a 31.8 BAR diameter (most modern bars are 31.8 diameter and I'm assuming your cannondale ones will be.

    Questions?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Flame Special View Post
    Ok, are the wheels on your bike the stock ones that came with it? If so those are the Maddux DC3.0s or something like that right?

    If that's the case, the front wheel will be a 9mm quick release and not 15mm qr..
    again, if that's right - both of the above forks will work for you.

    BUT you would definitely need to replace the stem and spacers for 1 1/8 stem/spacers (you currently have 1.5 sometimes written as 1 1/2). Or alternatively use flamingtacos idea about the adaptor. I can't comment on this.

    The headset would need replacing also but you may only need to replace the upper headset as the lower part of the fork steerer tube is still 1.5. I MAY BE WRONG ON THAT PART so would be good to hear some opinions from others in this thread about that.

    I know for a fact that the upper headset would need to be replaced - this would work:
    Cane Creek (40 series) ZS49 (28.6 step down) Top

    https://www.bike24.com/p260996.html

    May as well get a good quality headset like the above if you're putting quality forks on your bike.

    The headset adapter you linked to I don't think will work.. Cannondale have some odd head tube diameters on some frames i.e. those that take a headshock. Your headtube is a true 1.5 - thats all you need to know.

    I can also give you the right lower headset model if necessary.

    In regard to the stem and spacers you'll simply need some 1 1/8 spacers (like for like replacement with your current 1.5 ones if you're happy with the current height of the bars) and a 1 1/8 STEERER diameter stem with a 31.8 BAR diameter (most modern bars are 31.8 diameter and I'm assuming your cannondale ones will be.

    Questions?

    Thanks for the info!! Will Look into the headset adapters, still need spacers and a stem + fork if i am correct. Was hoping i wouldn't have to buy a stem but at this point i might as well replace it anyways going to have to go take a quick peek at the bar diameter etc before i decide on a stem. As for the wheel axle deal, i have still not been able to actually determine the diameter of the axle (weather or not the axle is a 9mm QR or 15mm QR TA etc) I will try and get some pics for you guys to take a look at in terms of helping me figure out my axle style (have viewed forum threads regarding the different types of axles still no luck).

    Thanks again for all the help gents!!

    --MTNS ARE FUN--

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Idea!

    will post some pics below to see if we can figure out what diameter axle i have could be a 9mm i can honestly not tell. Might Also Do bars, anyone have stem suggestions ( was browsing JensonUSA for some not sure on clamp size etc)?


    Cheers!!



    MTNS

    PICS



    Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_210910.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_210924.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_210943.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_211015.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_211029.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160502_211110.jpg

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    BUMP! Any thoughts guys?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    Those are simple QR hubs. 9mm axle in front, 10mm axle in rear. If you're looking at a fork that says anything about 15mm thru axle or 15TA, look elsewhere. For the stem, you'll need one that uses a 1 1/8" steer tube clamp. The handlebar clamp diameter will be dependent on your current handlebar, or if you buy a new handlebar, get the matching handlebar clamp diameter. I'd make a good bet your current handlebar uses a 31.8mm clamp diameter
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Those are simple QR hubs. 9mm axle in front, 10mm axle in rear. If you're looking at a fork that says anything about 15mm thru axle or 15TA, look elsewhere. For the stem, you'll need one that uses a 1 1/8" steer tube clamp. The handlebar clamp diameter will be dependent on your current handlebar, or if you buy a new handlebar, get the matching handlebar clamp diameter. I'd make a good bet your current handlebar uses a 31.8mm clamp diameter

    Thanks a bunch for that helpful information, this is getting to be REALLY expensive ( still unsure on EXACTLY what type of headset mods im going to need to do was considering installing the following Cane Creek 110 ZS49 Conversion Headset > Components > Headsets > Complete Headsets | Jenson USA

    Would i be able to use a strait or tapered steer tube type fork with the cane creek 110 zs49? Could I get away with just purchasing the top headset from cane creek vs the whole $130 deal? Still Trying to decide on a stem and forks ( considering a rockshox reba unit with remote lockout, or a 100mm fox 32 float evo if it will fit.) All of this is slightly confusing still but i think im starting to get it.

    Thanks for the help gents!!!

    MTNS


    EDIT: ALSO worried about what type of cane creek spacers I will need If I am able to use that headset on my bike.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Yep, those are quick release hubs. As per my last post either of those forks you linked to will work BUT a couple of things to keep in mind..

    How big is your frame? The Reba's have a cut down steerer. It's still pretty long though (215mm) so should be ok unless you're on a massive frame/like your bars super high.

    It doesn't say what brake mount the FOX fork takes.. there are two: IS (industry standard) and Post mount.
    I think your RST has a post mount so if the fox is the same - all good. If not, you'd need an adaptor (IS to post mount). These are pretty cheap and easy to get but just wanted to make you aware.

    As the guy above says if you've got the Cannondale handlebar, I'll bet the clamp diameter is 31.8.

    In regard to the stem, if you're happy with the position/height of your bars you'll want a stem that is approx the same length and rise of your current 1.5 stem - as an example 90mm stem with 8 degree rise.
    This also goes for the spacers - again as an example, you may have 8mm worth of spacers under the stem and 4mm on top. You'd need to get the same amount again (12mm worth) or actually a few more as the stem body of a 1 1/8 might be slightly smaller than that of a 1.5.

    So you need to measure your spacers stack height to determine what you need (and then get a few more like I said just in case).

    With the headset - I'd be inclined to take up Mojo K's awesome offer of the free Hope unit. You'll just need the top part though. Another BUT though, it needs to be a Semi integrated/Zero stack top (NUMBER 4) - this one, on the far right at the very top.

    http://www.roteccycles.co.uk/ekmps/s...2%5D-588-p.jpg

    Nothings easy right!

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Just read your above post.. don't bother with the Cane Creek 110 stuff.. it's their premium range. Very nice but unecessary. The 40 series is fine (correct top headset listed in one of my posts above) or alternately get a Hope top unit (NUMBER 4 in their pick n mix range). Both cheaper options but still excellent kit.

    Would be even cheaper if Mojo K has the correct Hope one for you!

    Any 1 1/8 spacers should do the job - don't need to be Cane Creek.

    I'm off out riding for a couple of hours, quite happy to answer any other questions when I get back.

  20. #20
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Looks like mine will work.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Erock503's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,111
    I'd take mojo's offer too. If you do go cane creek, like said, the 110 isn't necessary. You can always replace just the bearing with the 110 SS too, and it's the same upgrade. They are interchangeable.

    I just built up a prophet with a cc40 1.5 -1 1/8 top reducer and a regular cc40 1.5 lower l, used with a tapered fork. My hardtail has a cc40 with the 110 ss bearings.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Hope

    Just read your above post.. don't bother with the Cane Creek 110 stuff.. it's their premium range. Very nice but unecessary. The 40 series is fine (correct top headset listed in one of my posts above) or alternately get a Hope top unit (NUMBER 4 in their pick n mix range). Both cheaper options but still excellent kit.

    Would be even cheaper if Mojo K has the correct Hope one for you!

    Any 1 1/8 spacers should do the job - don't need to be Cane Creek.

    I'm off out riding for a couple of hours, quite happy to answer any other questions when I get back.
    Thanks again for even more helpful info, Looking at stems now my frame is a LARGE btw. May do bars as well if expensive headset items arent needed. MOJO, I will be pming you shortly about the headset adapter and the reba just need a little more info on the shocks etc. im guessing MOJOS hope unit would interface with most 1 1/8 forks ( not sure if tapered fit or not ? ) hopefully i can pick up the reba and save some cash ( hopefully enough eto pick up a good set of bars / stem / grips / grippy ass platforms not really a clip in fan.) anyways you guys have been super helpful i hope i can learn some from all this configuring / part installing etc.

    MTNS

  23. #23
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Blue Flame...the Hope unit I have is the "F-type" lower from the Hope chart you linked. Do you know if the Cannondale frame requires a zero stack lower, or will the traditional cups work (for a straight 1 1/8 set up)? Thanks, K

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    If the bars and stem mojo k has for me dont work out, I was thinking about getting The ODI Flight Control 750mm ( LINK = ODI Flight Control 750 Handlebar > Components > Handlebars | Jenson USA ) and this stem LINK = Truvativ Hussefelt Stem > Components > Stems > Threadless | Jenson USA It seems ok for the money i dont say a big reason to spend more than $30 bucks on a stem im not doing downhill or something ya know? Let me know what you guys think about those together I tend to like my bars higher so with those two items I would also purchase some 5mm and 10mm spacers. Was thinking of doing carbon bars but $50 ODI bars seem ok for now.

    CHEERS!!!

    MTNS ARE FUN

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    Blue Flame...the Hope unit I have is the "F-type" lower from the Hope chart you linked. Do you know if the Cannondale frame requires a zero stack lower, or will the traditional cups work (for a straight 1 1/8 set up)? Thanks, K
    Hey MOJO, the F type is the exact one needed for a tapered steerer (all Cannondale trails come with a ZS upper and traditional lower) so I don't think it'd work for a straight 1 1/8.
    It might be an H type needed maybe? Not 100% sure

    I'm busy today guys but will try and sus it out later on tonight!

  26. #26
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Flame Special View Post
    Hey MOJO, the F type is the exact one needed for a tapered steerer (all Cannondale trails come with a ZS upper and traditional lower) so I don't think it'd work for a straight 1 1/8.
    It might be an H type needed maybe? Not 100% sure
    It's a step down bearing for 1 1/8 straight, just wasn't sure about the cup. Thanks

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    ^^ Right.. headsets confuse as hell out of me sometimes.. I can't find anything off the shelf from Hope that is External cup/traditional and 49/30 which is what I think would be needed for a straight 1 1/8 in a 1.5 headtube.

    Cane creek do one though and Hope do a Zero Stack which I think will work on a straight 1 1/8 steerer but using a Zero stack would slightly alter the headtube angle if I'm not mistaken?

    So do you think yours (the lower) would work then Mojo?

    MTNS, what might be a good idea before you commit to buying anything is to check the length of your current forks.

    For clarification, that's the measurement from your fork crown to your top cap pretty much. Should give you a good enough approximation. I'm assuming the forks are still on the bike here.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    I will measure the forks and see, would really like to get into the following fork as it seems to have the QR 9mm axle compatibility that i need and an uncut tapered steerer LINK = New 2015 Fox 32 Float Fork ctd 26" 100mm 9mm Taper $525 Retail | eBay

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Idea!

    So ive decided to go with a RockShox Reba fork ( with remote lockout a important feature to me) but i have a quick question about the fork before I proceed. The Uncut Steerer Length on most forks seems to be 10.5 inches, I was hoping to be able to cut the fork down to length once acquired but the fork im about to link below has already been cut down to 8.4 inches I have a LARGE frame just wanted to check with you guys to see if this fork would work for me already cut down to 8.4 inches or do i need to move onto somthing else?? would really like to get this particular reba if I can they are brand new bike pull offs newer not sure on year. Link to Reba RL === Rock Shox Reba RL 26" Tapered QR Dual Air MTB Bike Suspension Fork Remote New | eBay

    Cheers and thanks for the continued support just trying to get this figured out once and for all still.

    MTNS ARE FUN

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Erock503's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,111
    That's a pretty long steerer IMO. Looking at your frame, the head tube for a large is 4.5 inches. Adding in the size of the headset cups, you should be able to get an idea if the 8.4 inches is long enough compared to your setup now.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    As I said before, the easiest way to know is to measure your current fork length.

    That said, 215mm should be plenty for a size large. High rise stems are pretty easy to find for 1 1/8 forks anyway so I think you're good.

    Don't forget, as well as whatever you've decided re the headset, you're also going to need to get a Shock pump and a Top cap.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Blue Flame Special
    As I said before, the easiest way to know is to measure your current fork length.

    That said, 215mm should be plenty for a size large. High rise stems are pretty easy to find for 1 1/8 forks anyway so I think you're good.

    Don't forget, as well as whatever you've decided re the headset, you're also going to need to get a Shock pump and a Top cap.

    Yeah sorry about the fork question repost, there is so much info in this thread already that i tend to forget bits of it = p. Anyways, I measured from the VERY top of my headset area / stem to the bottom where the forks widen and came up with 8.75 inches from top to bottom as the bike sits now has a semi extended stock cannondale c4 stem would like to replace with the following if i can LINK : Truvativ Hussefelt Stem > Components > Stems | Jenson USA Mainly Considering this unit for the price but would consider something a bit more pricey if you all recommend it.

    Thanks again!!!


    MTNS ARE FUN

    EDIT: All so for now im only going to be working with the Hope Reducer headset that mojo sent me hoping I will only need the cap and shock pump after that + stem + forks etc.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    So the steerer on these forks is probably only about 5mm shorter give or take than your current ones (top of steerer normally sits 2-3mm below a top spacer and cap).. it'll be fine.

    If you're happy with your current bar position/height you really want to find a stem of similar length and rise.

    That Truvativ comes in 40 or 60 mm and looks to have very little rise.. I'd stay clear of anything too short as you'r bike is designed with Cross Country/Trail in mind.
    40 would be too short in my opinion. I reckon your current stem is probably closer to 100mm in length.

    Again, this is something you may want to check.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Also, fair play to Mojo for sorting the headset. Very cool of him.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Flame Special View Post
    Also, fair play to Mojo for sorting the headset. Very cool of him.
    Ill take the stem length into consideration will measure and try to get somthing similar , MOJO K most definitely helped me A TON by sending me that Hope Reducer!!! I honestly don't know how to thank him, I'm thinking he would be happy with me reimbursing him for shipping ? Either way he is awesome, I honestly feel like a stingy bastard in terms of paying things forward I have done it before just not for someone so new to the forum like me he was just awesome SUPER QUICK shipping too, Reference for those of you who may deal with MOJO K in the future = ].

    Now for some more stem browsing, instead of just going by the top Bike Component sales sites on google I figured i would ask ::::: Q::::: What sites do you guys use to purchase components??::::::: I have Browsed the following but feel like there could be something more out there::: Jenson USA, Arts Cycleery, EBAY mainly thats really all i have messed with so far need some variety lol.

    Cheers guys, and thanks again for all the assistance!!!


    MTNS ARE FUN

  36. #36
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Pay it forward...let people in front of you in line, buy stuff you don't need from kids doing fund raisers, help with the food drive...do what you can, help other people succeed.

    the last one is big with me...Thanksgiving and Christmas are big, but food pantry services get emptied when kids get out of school lunch programs and working poor families need to find 10 more meals a week for each kid. Go do something in June when everybody needs it instead of during the Holidays when it makes us feel good. I dropped $5 getting this part out...can I expect everyone here to drop $5 worth of food somewhere for their own local community? Pay it forward.

    peace to all K.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    Pay it forward...let people in front of you in line, buy stuff you don't need from kids doing fund raisers, help with the food drive...do what you can, help other people succeed.

    the last one is big with me...Thanksgiving and Christmas are big, but food pantry services get emptied when kids get out of school lunch programs and working poor families need to find 10 more meals a week for each kid. Go do something in June when everybody needs it instead of during the Holidays when it makes us feel good. I dropped $5 getting this part out...can I expect everyone here to drop $5 worth of food somewhere for their own local community? Pay it forward.

    peace to all K.
    VERY well Said sir, YOU DA MAN!!!



    MTNS

  38. #38
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    Sent a stem... 110mm Titec..It fit in the envelope...

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    Sent a stem... 110mm Titec..It fit in the envelope...
    Wow even better!!!! REALLLY cool since it literally saves me $50 or a little more!! Got a buddy that has a set of specialized ( a little older but better than what im using!! They are from 2008) handle bars that seem to have a better curve for me and they are grams lighter than my others!


    Thanks for the continued support guys!

    MTns

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Just an update for you guys on how things are going , I Have been saving / making some cash to pay for the forks i need ( $320 bucks is a LOT for a poor man ) Almost there should be about another week or so before i can get them ordered maybe sooner we shall see = ]. As for the pedals and grips i was wanting to get with the forks, they are just going to have to wait for a little while. I did get the chance to remove my stock SL4 pedals and with some decent luck angle grinding i was able to rough / gouge everything on the petal enough to get a NICE amount of new grip that i didn't have before may not do pedals for a little while at least in light of this new mod.

    Cheers and hope you all are well!!


    MTNS ARE FUN

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quick update, managed To pick up some decent grips for cheap Got a pair of Teva brand lock-ons in neon green Teva Lock on Grips 22 mm Diameter 135mm Length Day Glo Green Mountain | eBay

    seem to be really grippy and a decent deal for $7.95 with free shipping from a reputable seller in the united states ( generally these deals FROM WHAT I CAN SEE are only to be had with mainland chinese sellers ) I know that Teva makes AWESOME footwear so im hoping there attempt at a mountain bike lock on is the same level of quality!


    Have $200 of $300 saved for the forks looking to do some other mods in the near future VS picking up a new bike ( for me full suspension / carbon would be the only option if i were to upgrade bikes and obv thats $3000 - $5000 new so ) thinking of going with carbon bars and a carbon seat post / new saddle. I would Possibly like to upgrade the brakes as well as a few of the transmission components too, does anyone have any suggestions for brakes and a Crank? Also wanted to know you guys thoughts on dropper seat posts VS rigid ? Many thanks to you all for all of the great info things seem to be coming together on this build nicely!

    Mtns

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27

    Idea! scooter bike rack

    Got a Little creative a few days ago and decided to strap my allen bike rack to the back of my LARGE BODY 150cc scooter ( Highly doubt 50cc scooters could have this strapped to it due to a much smaller body size than this scoot) just to see if i could get it to work safely. To my surprise the setup works really well other than the fact that you cant access the under seat storage with the rack on but thats what backpacks are for =p. The mount has VERY little play when rolling down the road, i rode it to a semi close by trail head (6 miles from my house on all 45 mph roads) and the mount held up really well although it does tend to make the scooter move left to right a bunch more than normal when @ speed ( 45 mph or more) i think thats just because of the large amount of added wind/ air drag mounting the bike horizontally. Just thought i would share this little mod with you guys / those who want to try it themselves!

    Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160516_140521.jpgCannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160516_140531.jpg


    EDIT 1: sorry for the upside down pictures initally guys, the forum picture uploader seems to enjoy flipping pics upside down ( mainly ones taken via cellphone camera) so i had to manually rotate them and re-save the photos via Photoshop cs5.

    cheers!!



    MTNS ARE FUN
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160516_140521.jpg  

    Cannondale Trail SL4 2011 --IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT FRONT FORK---What to buy?-20160516_140531.jpg  


  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    trail bike bigger than the moped, the way mother nature intended.

    FYI, you're pictures are upside down. Be careful, that's how bikes fall into outer space and crash into space stations.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    trail bike bigger than the moped, the way mother nature intended.

    FYI, you're pictures are upside down. Be careful, that's how bikes fall into outer space and crash into space stations.
    ^^^^^ THIS made me LOL so hard = p , Yeah its really odd like i posted above the only way to get the pictures to completely render upright is to open them in Photoshop then save as them to a separate folder / directory weird stuff my previous pics in this thread were upright = /.....Got some electronics moving nicely through ebay ( 2 sales this morning on medium priced items this morning already!!) so i should be able to get some forks sooner or later going with some carbon fiber bars i think from ebay ( promax high rise carbon fiber bars really nice weight and good rise for me for $60) Think i have some nice lightweight sub $50 platform pedals picked out as well very excited about those as the angle grinder mod to my stock trail sl4 pedals only worked so well have been cutting the hell out of my legs on the edges as well....


    CHeers gents have a good day!!

    Mtns

  45. #45
    group W bench member
    Reputation: MOJO K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,366
    A dropper post might be a good investment, but I wouldn't spend money on an upgraded rigid post or bars at this point. The best way to handle this is to save your money and only fix what you break. Think this way...every step forward you take on this project could be a step away from your next bike. After getting the fork sorted, the only thing that will give you a very real performance upgrade is wheels and tires...which might be more money than you would want to pump into this bike.

    As for the brakes, I'd keep what you have ( mechanical disc/ 160mm rotor, I think? ) but you can bump up to 180mm rotors/ appropriate adaptors/ new cables for $50ish and get a ton more power from them. Peace K.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,283
    There are certain things that transfer easily, some that don't. handlebars/stems transfer, and don't wear out, so I would be OK replacing those if it was a fit/width issue. Same with the seat. The seat post on the other hand could have a different diameter, so I'd ride what you have.

    second that 180 rotors are a simple upgrade, especially up front. Cheap rotors off pricepoint ($6-7 each), and a new adapter are all you need. Price point has stupid cheap tires and wheels right now too. I would also avoid wheels unless you just want to upgrade what you have now, or set up a second set for road. Hub standards are always changing, so what you buy now might be a waste of money later on. I'd grab some wide 29er tires though, and just have fun with the new tread. Old tires, are old. It is amazing how much traction (and confidence) you get from new tires.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quick update, Next Thursday will be the purchase day for my Rockshox Reba RL fork still debating on weather a new more comfortable saddle would be a better idea than going with these Bontrager Carbon bars that have a little more rise than my stock cannondale bars weigh a decent amount less as well LINK TO BONTAGER BARS ---Bontrager Race XXX Lite OS Carbon Bars 630 x 31 8 mm x 7 Deg 40 mm Rise MTB 195 | eBay

    I feel like the bars may be a better upgrade doe to me feeling like the rise on my bars is pretty low for my riding style posture etc.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quick Update, Next Thursday is still Fork Order Day ( still going to get the rockshox REBA RL Dual AIR 100mm with remote lockout) Today I decided to go ahead and purchase some cheaper carbon fiber bars ( I went with a new set of Promax Carbon Fiber bars paid $59.99 for them not a bad investment in my mind the rise on them is much better than some of the other bars i was looking @ / better than the stock c4 cannondale bars im using now ). Could you guys possibly assist me in picking out adapters for upgrading my post mount 160mm disc rotors to 180mm rotors would like to do both the front and rear rotors if possible. I am also thinking of going with a notubes kit for my stock alex 4.0 disc wheels( if thats even possible ??), im looking to loose as much weight as possible while i save up for a carbon full suspension bike. After the mentioned upgrades ill be buying a more comfortable saddle and possibly a new front tire then thats all the money i can justify putting into this bike at this point ( if not too much already).


    Thanks for the Continued support guys it has been a massive help!!!!

    Mtns Are Fun

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    1

Similar Threads

  1. 1.5" Replacement Stems for Cannondale Trail
    By deputydog2003 in forum Cannondale
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 04-27-2015, 02:41 AM
  2. 2011 cannondale trail sl3 vs 2012 cannondale trail 5
    By idon'tlikepink in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-22-2012, 07:56 AM
  3. 2011 Trek 4500 Disc vs. 2011 Cannondale Trail SL 3
    By Ice Cold in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-05-2011, 07:27 PM
  4. Replacement fork for 1998 Cannondale Super V 500?
    By daa in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-01-2011, 12:01 PM
  5. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-27-2011, 10:10 PM

Members who have read this thread: 7

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.