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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    Twenty One Years Young.

    Sweet bike. Looks capable of mountains.
    Why did you make it a 1x. They ware not common 20 years ago. My equally old has 3x6 and that was common then where I live, Then when needed new cassette I made it 3x9 and that is what it still is. Mainly because I could not find a new 6 speed cassette and 3x9 was cheap and easy to get.
    it is harder to get fit than to stay fit.

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  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6D ATB-1T EVO View Post
    Sweet bike. Looks capable of mountains.
    Why did you make it a 1x. They ware not common 20 years ago.
    Well it would've been 1x8 originally, so it's basically the same!

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6D ATB-1T EVO View Post
    Sweet bike. Looks capable of mountains.
    Why did you make it a 1x. They ware not common 20 years ago. My equally old has 3x6 and that was common then where I live, Then when needed new cassette I made it 3x9 and that is what it still is. Mainly because I could not find a new 6 speed cassette and 3x9 was cheap and easy to get.
    This was the 1999 FSR DH which was single ring. Shame it's so difficult to find original brochures. I had a 1997 print brochure back in the day but it got cleaned out at some point.

    I've just got my 1998 FSR Elite fitted with the factory forks. I'll get some photos of that up when the weather clears. It's 3x8sp.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    Well it would've been 1x8 originally, so it's basically the same!
    Show how little I know.
    Still a beautiful bike. How is it climbing or did/do you go by car to top of the mountain and use the bike down like many guys do here?
    it is harder to get fit than to stay fit.

    You have only one brain: protect it!

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6D ATB-1T EVO View Post
    Show how little I know.
    Still a beautiful bike. How is it climbing or did/do you go by car to top of the mountain and use the bike down like many guys do here?
    I haven't ridden it. It's more a collectible or coffee bike. I imagine it will climb similar to my five other FSR bikes. Soggy but grippy.

  6. #606
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    I've owned this one for about 8 years. Finally got the correct forks on it. Ironically so I can sell it.

    26ers over 10 years old-img_20200702_152445.jpg

    1998 FSR Elite.

    It had a horrible mismatch of bits when I got it. Including a Judy C fork. It took me a while to get a Mango Xvert R with a long enough steerer for the XL head-tube.

    Before then I had a 145mm Xvert DC on the front and longer stroke Vanilla RC on the rear. But I've finally been able to get it looking stock.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  7. #607
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    Didn't see this thread until now.

    2005 Giant Trance

    IMG_20200706_145908_ConvertedDNG by DtEW, on Flickr

    I acquired the first-year-production frame-only in 2005 (it's the only version with both disk and rim brake bosses, not that I wanted rim brakes), built it up and rode the hell out it. It was my reliable epic bike.

    It went into storage in 2010 (along with my MTBing; I did almost 20 years of it, just went on to something else).

    Cue 2020 and COVID-19, and now MTBing is one of the few "safe" things to do, heh. Juggled lots of parts within my fleet (among which included building three wheels; don't ask), serviced the suspension, and voila... back in service.

    And waiting for parts to arrive to convert my 2004 SC Heckler to to a 1x12.

  8. #608
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    2004 Stumpjumper Pro converted to carbon hardtail.

    26ers over 10 years old-20200701_155022.jpg

    I just rebuilt my brother's old 2004 Specialized Stumpjumper pro after he broke the Shocklink and couldn't find another one. I moved everything over to a cheap but good carbon frame. The steadpost was upgraded to a NXC suspension, and other upgrades were the seat and both the derailleurs, the front cogs, rear cassette and bb. I also replaced all the cables with teflon coated ones. He is very happy with the result.

    Athol

  9. #609
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    Old Avanti Venura

    26ers over 10 years old-2220200418_143206.jpg

    This is my old Avanti Venura 26r that has been upgraded numerous times. I think the only original part is the frame, brake calipers and headset. In the last year alone I've changed the seat, seatpost, both derailleurs, cassette, cranks, pedals, headset, bottom bracket, chain twice, crankset and then changed the chainrings, wheels, tyres twice, handlebar, stem, all cables, brake/shifter control combo, and pads.

    Athol

  10. #610
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    Cross-posting: does anyone else have one of these? What is your experience?

    1989 Schwinn Impact

    Purchased on craigslist from someone who serviced it well and converted to 5 speed. I added rear Wald 137 basket with custom upholstered foam cushion, saddle (rain cover came with bike), caged pedals (temporary), and Portland Design Works sodapop fender set. Plan to swap out bars with Nitto Albatross from a friend when I get a chance. Also need to swap the quick release seatpost clamp for a nut.

    Has been a joy to ride around Chicago these past 2 months. Picked it up for an everyday klunker/commuter to haul groceries and get around and for what little money I spent ($200) it has been a a gift.

    The only downside has been the extra effort required to carry this thing up and down from the third floor twice daily. It is a tank.

    26ers over 10 years old-schwinn_impact.jpg

  11. #611
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    Cool thread to read through thanks everyone.

    New to 26 inch mtb been on 27.5 for 6 years and bmx before that.
    Must say really love 26

    Anyway to the bike.

    Do believe its an 03 but if anyone knows more about these I'd love to hear.

    I ditched the 3x ran it for a winter and ahhh not for me in the local trails.
    So its a sunrace 11 42t 10 speed and to me a rather special derailleur I built it out of a nice xo 9 speed and the clutch and cable guide from a old sloppy x9. Also mod the top jocky wheel location to a better offset for the wide range cassette. A nice X0 shifter still in the older 9 style case shifts this thing like an expensive watch its really REALLY nice lol

    Still running mechanical brakes the tyres are from like 07 the fork is a lovely 130mm float R and yeah its a bit long but love the head angle and travel and the BB isn't too high infact I like it right where it is.

    The bars are off an octane and were 635mm and had to fix that but like the old bars sooo... don't flame me but I epoxied and hammered in some hickory rake handle and then hammered and glued some tube to bring them too 700mm

    Next on the mod list is 1.5 degree head angle adjustment and some ND tuned stanchions as mine are starting to go.

    Its an absolute weapon of a bike big contrast to my genius LT.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-screenshot_20200721-234444_gallery.jpg  

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  12. #612
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    Brand new here--1997 Schwinn S-20

    Hello,

    Total and complete noob. This bike was given to me last summer. I'm hoping to put new tires on it and ride it on gentle trails with my son. Best I can tell, a 1997 Schwinn S-20 with a lot of parts replaced.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-image_from_ios.jpg  


  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    1997 Schwinn S-20 with a lot of parts replaced.

    I have a 1999 Schwinn S-40 myself!

    In case you don't know, these s-models are near-identical copies of the very highly regarded Schwinn Homegrown Factory Suspension bikes.

    Just swapped in some 27.5" wheels, tan wall tires, and the most minimalist seatpost clamp in the universe:



    Last edited by mikehuangsd; 07-23-2020 at 02:05 PM.

  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikehuangsd View Post
    I have a 1999 Schwinn S-40 myself!

    In case you don't know, these s-models are near-identical copies of the very highly regarded Schwinn Homegrown Factory Suspension bikes.

    Just swapped in some 27.5" wheels, tan wall tires, and the most minimalist seatpost clamp in the universe:


    Cooool.

    Hey, your pic didn't make it. Can you repost?

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Cooool.

    Hey, your pic didn't make it. Can you repost?
    strange - well, here it is as an attachment - maybe this will work-
    Last edited by mikehuangsd; 07-23-2020 at 02:32 PM.

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikehuangsd View Post
    strange - well, here it is as an attachment - maybe this will work-
    Very cool!

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by DtEW View Post
    And waiting for parts to arrive to convert my 2004 SC Heckler to to a 1x12.

    I did a 1 x 11 on mine....and promptly retired it. Worked great though....It's posted earlier in this thread, but here it is again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-heckler-az.jpg  


  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoDakSooner View Post
    I did a 1 x 11 on mine....and promptly retired it. Worked great though....It's posted earlier in this thread, but here it is again.
    slick

  19. #619
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    Hi all,

    My first post on MTBR forums and this seemed a good a place as any.

    This is my Scott FX-30. It's a 2003 model although I bought it used in 2007.

    It's had a few changes along the way.

    Rockshox Tora 318 front shocks
    Rockshox Ario 2.2 rear damper
    Shimano M505 hydraulic brakes
    DMR V8 v2 pedals
    Maxxis Ardent Tyres (recent purchase)

    It rides very well for such an old bike although is very heavy compared to today's bikes.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-tkfvwxfn_o.jpg  


  20. #620
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    My newly-completed 2004 DiamondbacK Topenga. I have plans to continue riding this thing for at least the next 4 years. Thing is a beast. New Hadley hub on the back there too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-hadley.jpg  

    26ers over 10 years old-bike-full.jpg  

    Constantly trying to justify riding old bikes when in reality, I'm just too cheap to buy a new one.

  21. #621
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    This is my first, current, and only adult bike. It's a Fuji Nevada, purchased on my honeymoon in 2006 from a bike shop in a tourist town doing tons of rentals. They were selling off the older models at the end of the season. After 2 or 3 seasons of non-bikers riding it every day, I'm sure they replaced some things. So it's got a menagerie of parts making the exact year difficult to pin down. Based on the info on sites like bikepedia it appears to be a 2005 color with mostly 2004 components.

    Whatever it is, I got a great deal. I rented it for the day, I think the cost was $30. When I returned it, the shop said for $200 I could take it home. They even waived the rental fee!

    Never really rode much until this year. I recently replaced the chainrings, cassette, chain, and pedals. I'm learning that this bike and all the components are now considered old school, i.e. 26" wheels, 3x8 drivetrain, v-brakes, etc. But hey it's all like new to me and I'm fine with it! The best bike is the one you own right?

    @daytimecyclist my wife has a Diamondback Topanga that's got to be late 90's. It needs some repair, but seeing yours all fixed up gives me hope.

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    -Flat Bars, Flat Pedals, Flat Saddle, and frequently Flat Tires.

  22. #622
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    Good time to sell them, or buy them

    Right now is a good time to sell your old 26 inch wheel bike if youre not still enthralled with it. With this virus thing going around there are a lot of people looking for bikes and the bike shop prices are up there, no need for them to discount. Bikes direct is out of almost every model currently and you cant even back order some of them its like well let you know when you can place a back-order...unheard of. I am waiting for the arrival of a new bike sometime in Sept. I just sold my beautiful turner circa 2004 and my sons K2 attack 3.0 of about the same era. He just needs to move from medium to a large and Im scoping out a good older 26 inch wheel bike for him that Ill convert to 1 x 11.

    The reason you can also buy used bikes a good price is right now is so many people have time on their hands to clean out their garages and end up selling a bunch of stuff on craigslist offer up etc. they dont always check prices and often list them kind of cheap. You just have to be quick on the draw and persistent because a lot of sellers dont bother to respond very well. With any luck Ill find my son a bike as nice as the Turner I sold in his size, covert it to 1x11 and maybe tubeless And hell be set.
    Two Wheeled and Too Big

  23. #623
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    I still have and ride my Intense 5.5EVP. Still love it and havent had any issues keeping up with anyone on any terrain with the exception of Mountain Creek lol.
    Better to be pissed off than pissed on! Now get out and ride! ;-)

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoDakSooner View Post
    I did a 1 x 11 on mine....and promptly retired it. Worked great though....It's posted earlier in this thread, but here it is again.
    I just got mine done yesterday with a GX/NX Eagle mix.

    IMG_20200731_105906_ConvertedDNG_ConvertedDNG by DtEW, on Flickr

    Will take it out for a spin tomorrow. I've got a dropper on order for it as well.

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by DtEW View Post
    I just got mine done yesterday with a GX/NX Eagle mix.

    IMG_20200731_105906_ConvertedDNG_ConvertedDNG by DtEW, on Flickr

    Will take it out for a spin tomorrow. I've got a dropper on order for it as well.

    Nice. Great looking ride!

  26. #626
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    COVID19 Project

    I learned MTB on a hardtail. It taught me to optimize my body english on techy climbs and quickly pick the smoothest DH lines. Before I knew it - I'm on a full suspension..... and the HT is nowhere to be found. This summer - I test rode many, many Vintage 26er bikes, before I finally found one that actually inspired confidence, on modern trails. In fact, this 26er is such a phenomenal climber.... it propelled Alison Sydor and Tinker Juarez to World Domination, during the "Neon Nineties:"

    26ers over 10 years old-f1000_done.jpg

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    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  27. #627
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    Recently picked up this 05 Giant Trance 4 that was never ridden. Swapped over to hydraulic disc brakes and put a Recon air fork on it.
    26ers over 10 years old-20200803_225720.jpg

  28. #628
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    New Member: Hello and Dropper Post Question

    Greetings -

    I've recently upgraded my '94 Stumpy (HT) with new stem, bars, and grips. I'm wondering if anyone has installed a Dropper Post on their vintage bike, or if its worth the money (realizing value is dependent upon your riding)

    If so, which model do you recommend?

  29. #629
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    I'll have droppers coming for both of my mid-aughts 26"-ers. Whether they'll make for much of an improvement for somebody who rode for decades without them (got adept a getting way back behind-and-under the seat to the point of bouncing the gut off the seat and getting tire burns on my calf) is TBD. But I'll give them a try, since bike writers have been waxing poetic about how transformative they are to riding. I'll hang onto to my fixed seatposts in reserve, though. My primary worry is the play that all droppers seem to end-up with, and how distracting that might be.

    Not that it means much without firsthand and long-term experience yet, but I opted for variations/factory clones of the well-regarded PNW Cascade External that can be had for cheap.

  30. #630
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    Best option is to get a Hite Rite by Breeze and Angel. They will match the time period, you can keep you seatpost and pretty much get the same result. Save money 2!

  31. #631
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    Wink

    26ers over 10 years old-8331191d-598e-45e0-abe9-42f66eb6cac8.jpeg

    First year 1999 K2 Zed X

  32. #632
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    Once coil- suspension would be upgraded to air-suspension.
    Now it is possible to upgrade air- to coil-suspension:
    https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/ripmo
    https://dvosuspension.com/shocks/jade-coil/
    DVO even has a fork with air spring and coil negative for us 75 80 kg riders. Maybe also for other weight classes later.
    https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/forks/...reek-helm-coil
    Not long ago fat bikes with super wide tyres were the new thing we all need.
    Now Maxxis, Schwalbe and several other have their technician and sales personnel telling us that most used tyres lately are 2.4 2.6 and 2.8 but 3 4 are selling slow and not really are expected to be something that will last.
    Wait a while and 26 will be the next revelation as the longer bikes with 29 are not as nimble and agile as a 26. 29 are more forgiving if you do not know how to ride a 26 but we who know how
    (OK its time to stop bragging).

    26ers over 10 years old-overglad.jpg
    it is harder to get fit than to stay fit.

    You have only one brain: protect it!

  33. #633
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    I just retired my 1996 Cannondale M200 a few weeks ago after 24 years of use. The BB shell split, otherwise I'd still be using it. It was originally the same colour as Cayenne_Pepa's F1000 in the post above, Dodge Viper red. As another poster said I've had more fun endlessly repairing the bike than just buying a new one, although I realise there comes a point where it is false economy (probably 20 years ago in my case!)
    I'm making do right now with a 1989 Ridgeback 602 (I'm going backwards!) but it handles like an oil tanker in comparison. It's a seemingly heavier bike than the quick-accelerating Cannondale, but perhaps more to do with the geometry. I'm looking at all the possible modern replacements but haven't decided yet (plus there's little stock around at the moment in XL size). I'd even get another '96 Cannondale frame if I could find one, but in addition to a complete new bike.

    One thing that confuses me is the current trend for single chainwheels. A 36 and 46t gave me all the gearing I required for road plus technical riding, I feel I will miss the speed on the flat with a 32t only. I neither want to 'spin' or buy two bikes, and really need a hardtail trail bike rather than a tourer or XC.

    The Cannondale took a 2.3" rear tyre easily (as does the Ridgeback but with hardly any clearance for mud, so I use a 2.1" rear), which makes me wonder why manufacturers dropped the second chainring for a relatively small increase in tyre width. Is it actually necessary due to wider rims and hubs? Or maybe supply and demand - people just buy several bikes or don't ride long distances to the trails anymore?

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex View Post
    The Cannondale took a 2.3" rear tyre easily (as does the Ridgeback but with hardly any clearance for mud, so I use a 2.1" rear), which makes me wonder why manufacturers dropped the second chainring for a relatively small increase in tyre width. Is it actually necessary due to wider rims and hubs? Or maybe supply and demand - people just buy several bikes or don't ride long distances to the trails anymore?
    I have a local loop straight out my door, but I could do it on a gravel bike. My local trail park is 50km away, and I ride my 170mm travel bike once I've driven there. The reason front chain rings are reducing is bikes have got more specific. Cassettes have got bigger to adjust and it's given a bit more room for designers. Chain retention is a big deal for some, and Narrow Wide front rings help enormously. I've been 1x for a long time off and on, 1x9 on big bikes. But a friend is happy with a triple, my partner still has a double, and I guts it out on a 34 and 11-42t. That gives me 30kmkh on the flat at 80rpms which is plenty for me.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex View Post
    The Cannondale took a 2.3" rear tyre easily (as does the Ridgeback but with hardly any clearance for mud, so I use a 2.1" rear), which makes me wonder why manufacturers dropped the second chainring for a relatively small increase in tyre width. Is it actually necessary due to wider rims and hubs? Or maybe supply and demand - people just buy several bikes or don't ride long distances to the trails anymore?
    It is such a pleasure to read your post, and with so much to respond about I'll try to touch the main points. My friend purchased a high end hard tail a few years ago, 27.5 boost. It was near $3,000 which is far beyond my pricepoint. But I was determined to keep up. And very much did so by playing a game of millimeters with creative upgrades to a 25 year old Mongoose loop stay. Older frames come in larger sizes. I just snapped the post on a 20" seat tube (lots of wheelie practice) of a low end 29er and I'm not particularly heavy. The Mongoose has a 22" seat tube.

    RE: 1x, in my experience, it is plain silly to grind an 11 (heaven forbid a 10) to achieve 32kph on the flat. What a way to wipe out a chain. A double allows me to run "big big" with good chainline, and lots of teeth roll more easily than a few. This also works far better for power climbing. It's not just me, there's a reason Shimano developed such an advanced front derailleur and delayed 12 speed introduction, it is practical, light, and it works. Ebay currently has an XTR low clamp side swing FD for $34, like what is on my Mongoose. It is effortless shifting with good retention up front. Seth's Bike Hacks recommends 9 speed 1x, but a double gives a smooth, large range of gears to choose from. Please see the thread here "Staying with 9 speed".

    The modern 2x FD provides more clearance for a large rear tire. Non-boost rear spacing (135mm QR) with 26" tire tucked to seat brings the chain close to a 2.4 tire in first gear. By adding a spacer (2-4mm) to a square taper cartridge BB you can push a non compact crank out enough to run 24x34. With a compact micro drive crank, you can use a smaller than spec'd BB and run 30x42. With the low ball Hollowtech clone cranks, you can run double with 30x42 as well. Universal Cycles recently had a closeout on M8000 XT doubles for about $130, that's what I'm running 24x36, 11x40, with 2.5mm spacers right and 2mm left for the 68/73 Deore external bearings. You can also gain clearance for a 2.4 rear tire by adding a 4mm spacer in place of high gear on the eight speed cassette. Pull the 13 cog, replace the 11 HG cog with a 12. This shifts everything over so the derailleur has to be high capacity.

    For another friend, we just built up a Diamond Back $10 yard sale find, full CroMo TIG frame. And like your '89, the rear end is limited to 2.1. Five to ten years later higher end 26er hard tails will often just fit the large 2.4 tire. That was key for my rig. There are still a few better quality 1 1/8 steerer forks available. In back on the Mongoose, I run an Avid Arch Rival with salmon pads, the stopping power is as good as disc. I run tube because of the generated heat. Rhyno Lite XL is a good width rim brake rim. The Alex Adventure 2 rim supports tubeless (flat shelf with ridge), but I don't recommend tubeless with rim brakes. In front the modern fork might even be thru axle, but for my purposes 100mm QR has been fine. They used to race DH with this stuff. I do wish I could perform circus jumps, but staying close to earth is a practical priority, so there is less stress on the QR's that way, small jumps are fine.

    Have fun!

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnatsOnTeeth View Post
    1x, in my experience, it is plain silly to grind an 11 (heaven forbid a 10) to achieve 32kph on the flat. What a way to wipe out a chain. A double allows me to run "big big" with good chainline, and lots of teeth roll more easily than a few. This also works far better for power climbing. It's not just me, there's a reason Shimano developed such an advanced front derailleur and delayed 12 speed introduction, it is practical, light, and it works.
    Again it depends where you ride. The majority of my riding has almost no sections where I'm actually pedaling at that kind of speed. Sure it's no good for your chain, but mine spends most of it's time at the other end of the cassette. Also depends on what your double is, if it's a middle and granny, then chainline is not really any different if you're in the 'big' gear.
    I'm not sure if the reason fewer bikes are coming with front derailleurs is to get tyre clearance, it's to reduce the suspension performance variation. Now it's easy to line up your suspension with the chainline.
    As I said, 1x isn't for everybody, but the range is there now albeit with more wear and tear on the single ring and chain. But even when I rode with a double last, I spent 99% of my time in the middle ring. So the price I pay is better chain security, quietness, and cleaner bars. I run a dropper on the left where a shifter would be.

  37. #637
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    Thank you both for you replies. Mudguard, your points all make sense and I agree. 30 years ago, and even up to quite recently my bikes could do everything I needed, but cycling has evolved and I probably need to also. I don't want to remain stuck in the 90's with ever decreasing spare parts availability (and I'm fed up of wearing through rim sidewalls, I need disc brakes).

    gnatsOnTeeth, thank you for the great tips on moving out the chainline, I will look at trying something like that when I find a more suitable frame for my existing 26" parts. I feel though that I also want to drag myself into the 21st century and try out the technologies that have so far passed me by - suspension forks, disc brakes, wider tyres, bigger wheels.

    I could even build 2 bikes, one for trails, one for longer distance road cycling - more durability and control on local trails, and travel further afield than I currently can on the roads.

  38. #638
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    Took the '05 Trance for its first ride last night. Handled and rode very nice.
    I probably will upgrade this to a 1x11 setup, especially with an RD that has a clutch - the chain slap this one has is quite annoying lol. Other than that, works great. Suspension is nice, responsive and plush.
    26ers over 10 years old-20200809_200113-3024x2268.jpg

  39. #639
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    Cool-blue Rhythm 2004 Giant XTC2 <<under construction>>

    Hi guys, building a parts bin special starting with a Giant XTC2 hardtail and Manitou Skareb Comp 80mm forks.

    Need a headset 1,1/8 x 41 x 6.5 - any recommendations?

    No photo yet as the workshop is a mess, but I have good SRAM 3x8 derailleurs and FSA crankset on a new Shimano bottom bracket.

    Mavic Crossride wheels but they have busted axles so have to sort that out. I put the serial numbers into Mavic and they aren't found - eg: LF201802742 - is this a 2018 wheel?

    Hayes hydraulic front disc (140mm) and nothing for the rear yet. Again, cheap and cheerful recommendations welcome!

    Hoping to find a bit of help in here as sourcing parts is tricky in COVID lockdown as the LBS has gone contactless and no face to face customer support!

    Cheers,
    VFR Boy

  40. #640
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    Headset

    Quote Originally Posted by VFR Boy View Post
    Hi guys, building a parts bin special starting with a Giant XTC2 hardtail and Manitou Skareb Comp 80mm forks.

    Need a headset 1,1/8 x 41 x 6.5 - any recommendations?

    No photo yet as the workshop is a mess, but I have good SRAM 3x8 derailleurs and FSA crankset on a new Shimano bottom bracket.

    Mavic Crossride wheels but they have busted axles so have to sort that out. I put the serial numbers into Mavic and they aren't found - eg: LF201802742 - is this a 2018 wheel?

    Hayes hydraulic front disc (140mm) and nothing for the rear yet. Again, cheap and cheerful recommendations welcome!

    Hoping to find a bit of help in here as sourcing parts is tricky in COVID lockdown as the LBS has gone contactless and no face to face customer support!

    Cheers,
    VFR Boy

    I found headset for 2 of my 26" here: https://canecreek.com/products/bike-headset/
    it is harder to get fit than to stay fit.

    You have only one brain: protect it!

  41. #641
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    Transition Vagrant

    Hi! First ever post. This is my new favorite bike. It is very confidence inspiring, very plush fork (Fox float RC2) I picked it up from PinkBike for $300 . It was in better condition than I was told. Only things that I chose to replace are the pedals and Brakes. Cool blue Transition stem, too. Next I would like a Bottlerocket since my 2010 Bass died yesterday. Also 26" wheels. May be posting parts from that bike. Only thing about this bike that maybe could be a negative is the 1.5" headtube, but it looks really beefy and strong, and there are still RS Totems floating around out there. Thanks!
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  42. #642
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    my 1999 Schwinn S-40, with a few more changes:

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  43. #643
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    My favorite bike. 1992 Merlin. 1st Generation Bontrager Composite Fork, Cook bros cranks, XTR 8speed drive train, Hubs, brake levers, rear v. Syncros post, salsa rings. 18lbs.


    Attached Images Attached Images    

  44. #644
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    Very Nice!!

  45. #645
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    Little update for anyone interested in dropper posts on retro bikes I have just fitted a 27.2 eten i to my old scott elite racing. It has absolutely changed the bike and I'm in love again.

    Now the original post size is 26.8 so I chucked the dropper in the lathe and slimmed it down with emery tape and its good to go. It had a bottle cage mount in just the right spot so removed the rivnut for the cable

    So its now running big tyres
    A dropper
    Widend bars
    Shorter stem
    Nice X0 1x10
    A 130mm float R which has got the head angle to 67.5

    Thinking some offset cups to get a little more angle and drop the BB a tad

    Still running cable disks for now but man this thing is awesome its still a retro feel but with a few modern niceties.

    Sorry about the sideways picture
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  46. #646
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    I see a lot of you have switched to 1x. I'm swapping the parts from my Yeti 575, which has a cracked frame, to an ASR 5. Everything bolted up for the most part but I sure do hate messing with a FD. I'd like to replace the 3x9 drive train with a 1x11. I see a lot of these groups for sale cheap enough but they never include the crank. Can someone point me to a crank that will work with this bike? Everything i see for sale these days is DUB. Man it is getting tough to find parts for these old bikes. I just spent $10 plus shipping for a single spoke for my Mavic Crosstrail wheel. Thanks, Jim
    What, me hurry?

  47. #647
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    Jim why not just run the 3x crank? Chuck a 32 in the middle and be done? Can even run a bash if wanted.

    Edit.. oops just re read that and I see you need a crank to fit the new frame.

  48. #648
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6D ATB-1T EVO View Post
    I found headset for 2 of my 26" here: https://canecreek.com/products/bike-headset/
    Thanks! Headset seems to be no probs. Axle for the MAVIC Crossride is a bigger problem. LBS went to Mavic HQ and they can't help, so looks like a new wheelset is in order.

  49. #649
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    Hadn't thought of that. So just run the middle ring and change the rest.
    What, me hurry?

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim Mac View Post
    Hadn't thought of that. So just run the middle ring and change the rest.

    Easy as. Also the cheapo china narrow wides work fine but wear a little fast but are great for finding what ring you want to run before buying a flash 1. Another thing if you can get ahold of old warn sram x9 or gx 10 speeds from mates garages or whatever grab them and use the clutch and cable guide on older 9 speed derailleurs. X0 9 speed srams can be found real cheap and usually no play due to the plastic bush pivot design. Can go 1x10 rather cheaply and the new deore 11 42 is real nice too

  51. #651
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    I have the SRAM X.0 derailleur. Getting some work done on the bike at the LBS now. After I get it back I'll see how it rides and whether I want to put any more money in it. Right now just the cost of the frame plus a new chain. I have a 2017 Yeti SB 5 that is running GX 1x12, didn't think I would like it but so much better than the 3x crank.
    What, me hurry?

  52. #652
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim Mac View Post
    I have the SRAM X.0 derailleur. Getting some work done on the bike at the LBS now. After I get it back I'll see how it rides and whether I want to put any more money in it. Right now just the cost of the frame plus a new chain. I have a 2017 Yeti SB 5 that is running GX 1x12, didn't think I would like it but so much better than the 3x crank.
    Nice man. There's another trick with the sram derailleurs running 1x

    Jockey offset can be increased by 10mm and it follows a wide cassette like factory infact even better than Shimano 11s

    I have a thread all about it...
    https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...l#post14759257

    Basically drill n tap a new hole for the jockey wheel. The xo being carbon will need a thin nut instead of taping but same same other wise

  53. #653
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    I purchased Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance and have been busy teaching bicycle maintenance and repair. After replacing a flat and the brake pads on my Trek hybrid and adjusting the brakes on my brother's old Schwinn Enduro , I finally got around to working on the 1997 Schwinn S-20. Put some Kenda tires on it a friend gave me and sawed off the seat post so my son can ride it! Now for flat pedals.



    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Hello,

    Total and complete noob. This bike was given to me last summer. I'm hoping to put new tires on it and ride it on gentle trails with my son. Best I can tell, a 1997 Schwinn S-20 with a lot of parts replaced.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-seth.jpg  


  54. #654
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    an update - This bike is really, really good. 26 with a big tire has advantages, at least in back.

    Ridden hard regularly over the last year. It is the 1995 Mongoose Rockadile SX. The loop stays are holding up, I have cracked at least half a dozen frames at the right rear dropout, not this one.

    Remarkable is the handling. It has a gusseted head/down tube, which is holding the front end on as I didn't realize the stress caused by adding a longer travel fork. It was designed for 50mm travel, and here it has 100mm. This gives it about a 65 degree head/67 degree seat. Original was 71/73. I move the seat forward to steepen the seat angle. It is well balanced, even with the 110mm stem, with the slack head angle it does not feel it wants to flip (but back) down really steep stuff, and does not pop wheelies either when climbing. The BB is a bit high, but I climb steep rocky stuff and the pedals usually miss. Cranks are now M8000 180mm. It is a lucky coincidence! Other changes: has Microshift Advent 9 clutch driven by X9 Grip Shift, side swing XTR 2x, 26x38. Three freakin' cages!!! So no worries, I was above Woodland Hills two weeks ago when it hit 121F. Totally dependable, an awesome ride.

    It is tricky stuffing a big tire in back. Using a 21mm (24 made tire too wide) and high pressure on a 2.4 Panaracer swoop, there is enough clearance. But the rim is concave profile, no flat shelf for tubeless. Tons of goat head thorns (tribulus terrestris) now. Flatting every outing with tube. Fed up, I made layers of tape to flatten it out, adding some thin strips to create a lip. It has been working great, now I just yank (leather gardening gloves) the thorns out as I have been doing on the front. Rim brake will cook the sealant, I'll just fill it up again through the removable valve core. Such a tight fit, have to leave final inflation after wheel is past the pads. Avid Rim Wrangler type 1 (larger) salmon pads on the Arch Rival have proven _excellent_ stopping, as good as disc.

    Quote Originally Posted by gnatsOnTeeth View Post

  55. #655
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    Iron Horse Warrior Team SE

    Picked this up for $150 on Facebook marketplace just now.

    I'll cross-post in the Iron Horse forum.

    It's got a couple of minor upgrades--pedals and saddle. There's also a computer, but not sure if it works. I've never worked on disc brakes or a suspension fork before, so that will be new.

    This is my first actual mountain bike after owning a Trek hybrid since the early 2000s. I'll add to the collection which now includes another vintage 26, the '97 Schwinn S-20 in an earlier post on this thread. At my age I'm not looking to break any bones, so this will be for trail rides with my kids only!
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  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Picked this up for $150 on Facebook marketplace just now.

    I'll cross-post in the Iron Horse forum.
    Maybe a new cable and housing for that front brake, or try rerouting it. It's pretty short!
    Enjoy!

  57. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    Maybe a new cable and housing for that front brake, or try rerouting it. It's pretty short!
    Enjoy!
    Yeah, Im not digging how that cable is hanging out there in space. Reroute it inside the forks?

  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Yeah, Im not digging how that cable is hanging out there in space. Reroute it inside the forks?
    Well it will depend, I run the front brake from the right hand side, so there is usually a more elegant loop that way. It would loop over the top of the front wheel, attach to the fork usually on or just below the brake arch on the left leg, then go inside the fork leg to the caliper.

    I think even if you rotated the brake levers downwards (as they're almost horizontal) there still wouldn't be enough slack.

  59. #659
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    '98 Schwinn Mesa GSX

    Here's mine, 22 yrs old. It hung in my garage for 15 years while I got married, bought a fixer upper, had kids, a career, etc...

    I just started riding again this summer, I forgot how much I loved doing this. I've had to make come changes from what it originally looked like a few months ago. I replaced the 560mm handlebars with climbing bars (antlers) and 5" stem (the norm back in the day) with 720mm bars and a super short stem. What a difference that makes! I also had to replace my beloved red Michelin Wildgripper Hot S tires as they were too dryrotted to save. I was sad to see them go. The fork is a 2001 Manitou SX 100mm that I was able to overhaul and save. I also have a RockShox seat post and WTB saddle that are 20+ years old on there. I think the rest is original.

    Looking forward to figuring out how to ride these new trails again!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-bike-2.jpg  


  60. #660
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    Ibis Mojo and Koxx tials

    Hi all,

    Always been into bikes, mainly been riding enduro dirtbikes the past 6 years though.
    Built a nice push bike to get through COVID, the Ibis Mojo in raw carbon.
    Had the Koxx trials frame for years and only just replaced the rear hub after riding on a broken axle for ages.
    Let me know your thoughts on these two.
    cheers

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-img_8837.jpg  

    26ers over 10 years old-img_9051.jpg  


  61. #661
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    Can't believe it is already 15 years in service... Here is my '05 SC Chameleon:



    I bought it in my university time to have an affordable bike to ride some gnarlier stuff. Meanwhile I got a full sus as well (also a 26er), but the Chameleon is still my go-to bike esp. for the easy home trails!

    I've recently blown my front rim so I had to replace the Singletrack with a DT Swiss EX471. Had to realize there are not a lot of options available... Hopefully I can still get parts for the next couple of years

  62. #662
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    1996 Specialized Ground Control A1 Comp.

    1996 Specialized Ground Control A1 Comp.
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  63. #663
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    Been fixing this up. Everything worked pretty well except that the freehub sounded like a...loud mechanical thing. The cassette and hub were full of dirt, old grease, grass, dog hair, you name it. I took the cassette off, degreased it with paint thinner, and then set about removing the freehub. Everything I read said it'll be a 10 mm Allen key from the drive side. After a trip to Lowe's, the mom and pop hardware store, and the LBS, it's a 12 mm from the left side. I dunked it in paint thinner to remove all the crud from it, and after letting it dry for a while and lubing it pretty well, it sounds less arthritic. Just need the right cone spanner, some new ball bearings and a little patience to get the tightness on the hub right when it's screwed down, and she may be rideable again.

    Also, a lot more degreasing and lubing to do on the chain, derailleurs and sprockets. They're all covered in dirty grease.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Picked this up for $150 on Facebook marketplace just now.

  64. #664
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    I didn't get the bike with no seat until I found this!



    Quote Originally Posted by Sylvaner View Post
    Hi all,
    Had the Koxx trials frame for years and only just replaced the rear hub after riding on a broken axle for ages.

  65. #665
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    Put some Phil Tenacious oil on the freehub. Quiet as a mouse. Hope that means it's gonna work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Been fixing this up. Everything worked pretty well except that the freehub sounded like a...loud mechanical thing. The cassette and hub were full of dirt, old grease, grass, dog hair, you name it. I took the cassette off, degreased it with paint thinner, and then set about removing the freehub. Everything I read said it'll be a 10 mm Allen key from the drive side. After a trip to Lowe's, the mom and pop hardware store, and the LBS, it's a 12 mm from the left side. I dunked it in paint thinner to remove all the crud from it, and after letting it dry for a while and lubing it pretty well, it sounds less arthritic. Just need the right cone spanner, some new ball bearings and a little patience to get the tightness on the hub right when it's screwed down, and she may be rideable again.

    Also, a lot more degreasing and lubing to do on the chain, derailleurs and sprockets. They're all covered in dirty grease.

  66. #666
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    Any idea what this is? no information

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-%24_57-3.jpg  

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    26ers over 10 years old-%24_57.jpg  


  67. #667
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    Reassembled the hub with new grease and bearings, reattached the freehub, inserted the axle and did my best to tighten the cone and locknut properly, reattached the cassette, put it back on the bike and it rides pretty well. The freehub is nearly silent except that I definitely have a bad pawl that makes a little whir as the wheel turns. This is a vast improvement over the loud metallic GRIND it was making prior to all this.

    Next is adjusting the derailleurs so I have all my gears.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond_Dave View Post
    Put some Phil Tenacious oil on the freehub. Quiet as a mouse. Hope that means it's gonna work.

  68. #668
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    Here is my Titus RacerX


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  69. #669
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    Sorry no pix but I still ride a Diamondback Sorrento 26 with a 3*7 that I have had for at least 15 years. Wife says I can get a new one but there aren't many new bikes available right now. So I will keep on riding it til inventories get better. Just got it back from the LBS for a tune up. Can't wait to get back out on the trails now that everything is working.

  70. #670
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    Likely 10 years old now. My 2011 Giant Trance X1. Was planning on selling it and upgrading this year, but COVID took up all the new bikes and deals. So I gave my trusty steed some love and will be on the hunt for a replacement in a couple of years!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-img_20200908_120536.jpg  


  71. #671
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    I'll add my 2. '96 Intense Uzzi, I'm the original owner. Did a bunch of up grades in 2016, now garage art.
    I bought the Litespeed Unicoi in 2015, did a bunch of up grades and set it up as an alternative to my road bike.
    Still ride my '97 road bike a few times a week.26ers over 10 years old-litespeed1.jpg26ers over 10 years old-50mm-rim-wtb2.3-sm.jpg

  72. #672
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    1996 Marin Team Titanium

    Rigid with Pace carbon forks, carbon moto bars, slick tubeless tyres. Disc conversion with Ti tabs welded inside rear triangle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-done01.jpg  

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  73. #673
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    There's just something about these Ti frames!

  74. #674
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    2006 Specialized SX Trail

    Still rides very well -- just did a much needed fork service and slapped on some new Magic Marys which were converted to ghetto tubeless using the split tube method. Hopefully this will hold me over for a while!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26ers over 10 years old-screen-shot-2020-11-17-10.44.26-pm.jpg  


  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by yopper77 View Post
    Still rides very well
    I have one of those too!

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumba View Post
    '96 Intense Uzzi, I'm the original owner.Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice '96 Uzzi. One of my favorite-looking FSR-types of the era, esp. in this de-badged form. All business, all machine.

  77. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by ectoplasmosis View Post
    1996 Marin Team Titanium

    Rigid with Pace carbon forks, carbon moto bars, slick tubeless tyres. Disc conversion with Ti tabs welded inside rear triangle.
    Dude, that bike rocks! I also have a 90s's ti bike that I had converted to disc. Tell me more about those bars.
    Amolan

  78. #678
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    '93 Stumpjumper

    Kindly submitted for your perusal: my 93 StumpJumper; recently upgraded the stem, bars, grips and bar ends, as well as installed a PNW dropper post.

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  79. #679
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    Cool-blue Rhythm still going strong...

    This is my Halfords Apollo FS26. It went unused for many years by my late wife who passed away this year, so I have resurrected it to make best use of it and to honour her memory.

    This is condition it was in when rescued! It has since been fitted with new tyres, and front/rear mech and chain, new cranks and DMR V6 pedals.



    I've bought a new Rock Shox 30 fork but not yet fitted it. This will alter the bikes geometry a little also, raising the front-end by 20mm and slackening the head angle around 2-3 degrees I reckon.
    This will also require replacing the front disc callipers as it is an old Artec unit that has been giving issues lately, so I have a new Shimano BR-M375 kit for that and Shimano 160mm Rotor.

    I plan to replace headset, stem and bars at some point too, to modernise that aspect.
    Also plan to replace both wheels later and retro fit rear disc brake adapter.
    I am also thinking of full disassembly and repaint as the original decals are peeling away and there is some chipped paintwork on the chain stay too.
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  80. #680
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    Cool-blue Rhythm 2008 Trek Fuel ex9.5

    I just brought this 12 year old home. Dont think she has been ridden much. I intend to change that.

    26ers over 10 years old-20201122_104832.jpg

  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikehuangsd View Post
    my 1999 Schwinn S-40, with a few more changes:

    Wow! That thing is crazy! When pedaling or standing, there's actually no rear suspension I guess. I love the update you did. It looks great and that's cool to have such an unusual bike... it must get comments everywhere.
    Have fun!

  82. #682
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    Quote Originally Posted by Archytype View Post
    This is my Halfords Apollo FS26. It went unused for many years by my late wife who passed away this year, so I have resurrected it to make best use of it and to honour her memory.

    This is condition it was in when rescued! It has since been fitted with new tyres, and front/rear mech and chain, new cranks and DMR V6 pedals.



    I've bought a new Rock Shox 30 fork but not yet fitted it. This will alter the bikes geometry a little also, raising the front-end by 20mm and slackening the head angle around 2-3 degrees I reckon.
    This will also require replacing the front disc callipers as it is an old Artec unit that has been giving issues lately, so I have a new Shimano BR-M375 kit for that and Shimano 160mm Rotor.

    I plan to replace headset, stem and bars at some point too, to modernise that aspect.
    Also plan to replace both wheels later and retro fit rear disc brake adapter.
    I am also thinking of full disassembly and repaint as the original decals are peeling away and there is some chipped paintwork on the chain stay too.
    Sorry for your loss. Good sentimental reason to keep and update the bike as well.

    20mm longer fork is about 1 degree slacker head and seat tube, and 6-8mm higher bottom bracket.

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