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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by yzedf View Post
    Discount pricing? The frame was $50 less than a Santa Cruz Chameleon frame, not exactly a budget price in my opinion.
    Comparing the AL MC to the AL Chameleon it's $599 to $750USD. $151 difference at that price point is huge. In particular at the relative volumes we are talking about.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSD Bikes View Post
    In fact, as you probably noticed, all of the frames never went on sale.
    Hi Alex. Let me replace discount with value priced to be more accurate regarding the situation. I mean neither term in a negative way. I work in manufacturing so I appreciate the trade offs that occur to meet a particular price point.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Hi Alex. Let me replace discount with value priced to be more accurate regarding the situation. I mean neither term in a negative way. I work in manufacturing so I appreciate the trade offs that occur to meet a particular price point.
    No worries, it wasn't taken in a negative way. just wanted to clarify. In this case, i can say with confidence that the difference in price isn't manufacturing quality. In fact, all of our frames are handmade with sliding drop-outs and a custom yoke, which cost more. We also definitely produce way less frames. The major difference might be our overhead. We're a very small young company.
    RSD Bikes - Sales - www.rsdbikes.com
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  4. #404
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    I just placed a pre-order for an orange medium!!!!

    Thanks all for your feedback this week on the MCs!!!!

    Gonna be a great 2020 season!!!!

    Happy New Year!!!!

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    I just placed a pre-order for an orange medium!!!!

    Thanks all for your feedback this week on the MCs!!!!

    Gonna be a great 2020 season!!!!

    Happy New Year!!!!
    Its an awesome bike, enjoy!


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    I like bikes

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Comparing the AL MC to the AL Chameleon it's $599 to $750USD. $151 difference at that price point is huge. In particular at the relative volumes we are talking about.
    But the geometry is not the same and BB drop is absurd on the SC.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    But the geometry is not the same and BB drop is absurd on the SC.
    We are not talking about the geo.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    We are not talking about the geo.
    Might not be but that is a key consideration to comparing apples and oranges.
    When I look at the picture, I see a difference on many fronts in terms of comparing RSD to a larger company.
    Overhead of the larger operation dictates pricing as does other factors of large vs. small business.

    So, yeah, there might be a dry comment from time to time. Hell, Monte Python was king of dry...
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  9. #409
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    " width="549">

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    2018 RSD Middlechild

  10. #410
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    beautiful pictures of it out in the snow! Greetings from Suwanee with my high-viz MC. Still riding great, just the rider that needs improving!


  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    beautiful pictures of it out in the snow! Greetings from Suwanee with my high-viz MC. Still riding great, just the rider that needs improving!
    Excellent pic, drivera!
    With time spent with your bike, you'll do just fine. It takes time, practice and a sweet ride like the MC.
    I relish every ride as you are prolly doing too...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  12. #412
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    Very tempted to pick up a closeout MC in size XL. Bummed there is no 29er option but can add some 29er wheels next year. That said, what size would be best for a 6 1.5 rider?


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  13. #413
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    I'm 6' and ride a large.
    The next release will be offered in a 27.5 or 29 option.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  14. #414
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    With no small degree of apprehension, we installed a 150 mm OneUp V1 dropper on the boys (cough-mine someday) medium MC. I got a smoking good deal on it with their remote (thanks to a Paul the Punter discount code), so it became a Christmas present. Despite mixed reviews, it works well (with shims) and seems simple to work on. I was able to take some material off the rubber dropper routing plug, grease it with Slickoleum and have the housing move perfectly fine for operation, while still keeping junk out of the seat tube. Anyhow, just an FYI post. No long term report obviously, but for barely more than the cheapest of droppers, it seemed a no brainer. We have a lifetime supply of Slickoleum, so hopefully were set.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Very tempted to pick up a closeout MC in size XL. Bummed there is no 29er option but can add some 29er wheels next year. That said, what size would be best for a 6 1.5 rider?


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    I am about 6' to 6' 1". I usually ride Large in most brands and I fall right in the high side of a large for the MC. I ended up getting the XL and I love it!!! I was kind of stuck with this option since they didn't have L. If they had L I probably would have played it safe and gotten the L. The only issue you may run into is your pedaling height with the seat. I have the seatpost slammed and it is a perfect height with the 150mm post. The reach is quite longer than what I am used to but after a few rides I dig it. The only thing I may consider down the road is a bit shorter stem but for now it is good. I found stack height to be low so I do have max spacers under the stem.

    As for the 29 wheels, I heard this was optimized for 27.5 plus. A few people have said it just doesn't ride as fun with 29 wheels. My other bike is a 29er full suspension and honestly I can't say I wish this was 29. I like the extra cush and grip of the plus size tires.

    It is very stable descending because of the reach and HT angle and I feel like I do give up a little in nimbleness, not as easy to toss around, but could be just getting used to the bike in general.

    I came from riding a 2018 Honzo CR DL which was a fun bike in it's own right but wasn't fun enough for me to hang on to it.
    Ride 365

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Slick View Post
    As for the 29 wheels, I heard this was optimized for 27.5 plus. A few people have said it just doesn't ride as fun with 29 wheels.
    You might prefer 27+ to 29er wheel/tire on the MC, but there is nothing about the geo that's going to make 27+ great and 29er meh.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  17. #417
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    My mc rides great with both. Mine is in 29er mode right now and I'm haveing a blast on it with the 29s.

  18. #418
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    What hardtail party said!

    My MC is a singlespeed and on 27.5 x 3.0's for the ability to be set for the terrain, rowdy riding, flow trail rail etc. It gets down to a couple PSI adjustments and it's on.
    As soon as I'm past the illness, I'll be railing the local trails that are being groomed and prepped for snow BMX.

    The best part of the MC, build it out the way ya wanna, change it up in minutes with a few parts, tire, wheel changes etc. Flavor of the day can change in short order and lend to some damn nice versatility.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  19. #419
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    Just finished building up one of the last 2019 MC frames.
    Full build list below:

    Frame size XL

    29 Stans Flow MK3/ Hope Pro 4 Hubs

    Maxxis Minion DHRII 2.4WT Rear Tire

    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5WT Front Tire

    2019 Fox 36 Fit4 / 140mm travel

    Renthal Apex 50mm Stem

    Renthal Fatbar 35 / 20mm rise Handlebar

    Renthal Kevlar Grips

    Shimano XT M785 Brakes (soon to be upgraded to Zees)

    Shimano 203mm/180mm Ice-Tech Rotors

    Raceface Turbine Cinch Crank w/ 32t ring

    Shimano XT M785 Clipless Pedals

    Sunrace CSMX8 11-46t, 11spd Cassette

    SRAM PC-1110 Chain

    Shimano XT M8000 11spd Derailleur

    Shimano XT M8000 Trigger Shifter

    Gamut P40 Chain Guide

    Oneup V2 Dropper Post / 210mm

    Wolf Tooth REMOTE Dropper Lever

    Ergon SME Carbon Saddle

    Frame weight w/ headset cups installed weighs 7.33lbs

    Total build weighs 32.75lbs.

    First impressions - the frame quality feels and looks very good. There were no imperfections to the paint or to the frame which is always a plus to see when a frame arrives. Welds look really good. Overall, VERY happy and excited with the purchase of this frameset.

    I am tall @ 65, so I was a little worried the stack height on this frame would be too short. I am running 35mm of spacers under stem to achieve a good saddle to handlebar height. I have yet to ride the bike in the dirt, have only cruised the streets of the neighborhood, but I can tell the overall feel of the bike feels really nice. What I do love about this frame, is the low standover height, love love love this! Always being on a size XL frame, standover is most always really high with most frames, but the MC changes that for me. I can drop the saddle really low, especially with the 210mm dropper. Thus, will allow me to get low behind the saddle and to be able to throw the bike around a lot easier on rowdy terrain. This was a HUGE plus for me. It will be nice because I can take this bike to the dirt jumps as well as the trails. Very versatile bike, for sure! Tire clearance is also really good on this frame. Plenty of room with a 29 Maxxis 2.4WT tire, and still allows me to move the wheel up in the chainstay if I wanted.

    Just for fun, I removed that huge boat anchor of a head badge and replaced it with a gloss black decal. Sorry Alex @ RSD, I cant say Im a fan of the logo, not the best design IMO, so I had to tone it down a bit with more of a stealth look. But hey, the frame design is what really matters, right?! For some small detail, I inlayed some orange decals in the RSD stamp on the rear chainstays. Then applied 3M-7461 Shower Tread over the top of it as well as all over the inside of the chainstay in the high wear areas. Applied it on the underside of the down tube, too. Made my own chainstay protector out of 3M-2228 Mastic Tape. This stuff is really nice, check it out.

    Really excited to take this bad girl out. Its going to be a nice addition to my full squish. Nice to change things up a bit.

    2020-01-13 15.08.03 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 15.12.01 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 15.08.42 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 15.10.08 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 15.16.20 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 14.49.26 by Mike S, on Flickr

    2020-01-13 15.13.58 by Mike S, on Flickr

  20. #420
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    Welcome to the MC club, Dirt! Looks the part, indeed. Nice selection on the build kit.

    With a few good rides, you'll be groovin.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  21. #421
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    Bad pic - But this bike is fuggin bad! Totally diggin the MC!

    rsd1 by M S, on Flickr

  22. #422
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    Dirt, with every outing it only gets more addictive! Glad you're enjoying the MC.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  23. #423
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    Well we finally got some snow this winter on Southern Vancouver Island. I love shredding the snow since it makes trails we ride all the time feel totally different.



    My GF got her MC out in the snow to play and had a lot of fun.



    People around here seem to just assume you can't ride in the snow so we get the trails to ourselves. In 10 years of riding every snowfall on the south island there was one time where it was so deep and fluffy that we couldn't even ride downhill on normal mountain bikes. Usually it's a blast.



    This time around we could ride about 80%-90% of what we would normally ride with only the steepest punchiest climbs making us walk due to lack of traction. Of course there was a lot of wheel spinning and sliding around, but as long as you kept pedaling and enjoyed the challenge of keeping the bike moving it was possible to ride most trails.



    Unfortunately my GF managed to get her first MC flat and dent the rim nicely. She tells me it's her first on-the-trail flat in her ~10 years MTB career. That seems crazy, but I can't recall her flatting so I guess she's right.



    I hammered away on the dent with little success. So I used some Gorilla Tape to help the tire bead seal tubeless at that spot and threw some Stans Race sealant in. Seems to be holding so far. My buddy think he can improve the situation in his better equipped shop so we'll give that a shot on some rainy day. Bike seems rideable now.

    My GF has only ridden longer travel FS bikes so I did worry she might ride "heavy" and not pick the smoothest lines. I wasn't on the ride in question so hard to say what happened. I have bought her a precise pressure gauge that can adjust to +/- 0.5psi and I have encouraged her to use it diligently.

    I am in the school of "teach a rider to fish not hand them fish tacos" since I want her to be self-sufficient as she does lots of ladies' rides where she is frequently the most competent rider/mechanic in the group. If she has to sacracfice a rear rim to the Bike Gods learning the Way-of-the-Hardtail so be it.



    The snow is all gone now and our tech skills are nicely sharpened moving from snow/ice back to mud/moss/wet roots/wet rocks. We all feel like heroes for the moment.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  24. #424
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    I can't tell what the rim looks like or how it was damaged, but usually a crescent wrench and some patience and gentle persuasion can get aluminum rims back to 99% of new.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    I can't tell what the rim looks like or how it was damaged, but usually a crescent wrench and some patience and gentle persuasion can get aluminum rims back to 99% of new.
    It's got a really sharp dent in it. My GF is riding her MC a lot in our winter conditions so I'll leave it alone assuming the tubeless hack I did holds. When she switches to her summer FS 29er I'll take another stab and "fixing" the dent when there is no pressure to get the bike back in action again. I knew she wanted to ride it again today so last night I was just looking for a quick workable solution.

    I'll report back once it gets more attention and hopefully like you say I can get it back more like new.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  26. #426
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    Vik, that stuff happens to all of us at some point.

    Like Hardtail said, tweaking with a crescent and a kitchen hammer can do wonders and bring the rim back to useable.
    Needed for the fix is something solid to back up the interior wall of the rim while it is being tooled back. As for resolving a hop in the double wall, that's a more difficult fix.


    My experience with tires, pressures and such comes from trials and lends to a lighter riding style that lessens the rim damage thing but doesn't eliminate it. Learning to be light on a bike (Regardless of rider weight) is key to longevity of the entire bike.

    Bend those elbows and knees some to take up some inertia. Never use a locked joint to take up inertia or impact. It is really hard on your joints and spine let alone that bike you are sailing down the trail on. Going from a squish to HT is going to expose the bad habit of being rigid on a bike and takes practice and perseverance to resolve however, worth every minute spent in doing so.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Vik, that stuff happens to all of us at some point.

    Like Hardtail said, tweaking with a crescent and a kitchen hammer can do wonders and bring the rim back to useable.
    Needed for the fix is something solid to back up the interior wall of the rim while it is being tooled back. As for resolving a hop in the double wall, that's a more difficult fix.


    My experience with tires, pressures and such comes from trials and lends to a lighter riding style that lessens the rim damage thing but doesn't eliminate it. Learning to be light on a bike (Regardless of rider weight) is key to longevity of the entire bike.

    Bend those elbows and knees some to take up some inertia. Never use a locked joint to take up inertia or impact. It is really hard on your joints and spine let alone that bike you are sailing down the trail on. Going from a squish to HT is going to expose the bad habit of being rigid on a bike and takes practice and perseverance to resolve however, worth every minute spent in doing so.
    GF rode 40kms yesterday with no issues. So I think we are good for now. Come spring or next time I need to take that tire off I'll try and improve the fix.

    When I started riding MTBs rigid was the only option so choosing good lines and riding light where just things you learned. My GF's first bike was a 6" travel enduro rig. So she just smashes her way through the terrain. Saying "ride light" to someone like her is not all that helpful. She's just got to experiment and build skills and see what happens.

    If that rear rim needs replacing after a year from a bunch of hits that's okay. She'll learn a lot in the process and become a better rider.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    GF rode 40kms yesterday with no issues. So I think we are good for now. Come spring or next time I need to take that tire off I'll try and improve the fix.

    When I started riding MTBs rigid was the only option so choosing good lines and riding light where just things you learned. My GF's first bike was a 6" travel enduro rig. So she just smashes her way through the terrain. Saying "ride light" to someone like her is not all that helpful. She's just got to experiment and build skills and see what happens.

    If that rear rim needs replacing after a year from a bunch of hits that's okay. She'll learn a lot in the process and become a better rider.
    It goes without saying, so to speak! Back in the day, making tacos wasn't limited to the kitchen!
    Like I said in the previous post, coaching from you and others can go a long way to helping develop the "ride light" thing. Not likely gonna happen over night but in progression. A learning experience, indeed!

    Playing with the Sunspot in the snow as my little yellow friend is wearing the NN 3.0's! Looking forward to a rip around a singletrack on a client's property with both the MC and the Mayor. Fresh snow is falling and a test of the groomed by fatbike trail through the trees should be a fun experiene.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    The snow is all gone now and our tech skills are nicely sharpened moving from snow/ice back to mud/moss/wet roots/wet rocks. We all feel like heroes for the moment.
    So your trails remain open when muddy?

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    So your trails remain open when muddy?
    The forest trail with lotsa plant/tree material on the surface can be ridden wet with little to no damage. I have a couple of em nearby that have so much material on the surface, you would think an arborist dumped the chipper truck and spread its contents liberally. Others, no go, too much damage to terrain and bike parts.
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  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    So your trails remain open when muddy?


    Yes. We ride year round in the PNWet. Trail damage is a problem at the peak of summer when things are very dry and user volume is highest.

    Our "mud" is more like soupy dirt. Doesn't stick to anything or build up.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  32. #432
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    Looks to be a gravel route as opposed to being adobe...
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  33. #433
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    Does anyone know what hubs are on the Alu Middlechild Duroc wheelsets? Are those Sunringle SRC or SRX or different brand?
    2018 RSD Middlechild

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Does anyone know what hubs are on the Alu Middlechild Duroc wheelsets? Are those Sunringle SRC or SRX or different brand?
    SRC

    Now that some snow has melted in town, street sessions are in order!
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  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    SRC

    Now that some snow has melted in town, street sessions are in order!
    Thanks...so still curious, even the more expensive steel frame builds come still with SRC hubs then?
    2018 RSD Middlechild

  36. #436
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    Believe so.
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  37. #437
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    My GF's MC stoke remains high. She has done lots of techy trail riding here in Coastal BC as well as 50+kms non-techy gravel rides. Given the DHF/DHR tires the MC is doing really well on the less technically demanding, but longer rides. I'll probably put some Rekons on there for her in the summer both to save the DHF/DHRs for next winter and so she's got something faster rolling as she tires her hand at bikepacking and longer gravel shreds.



    The rear rim dent has not caused an issue since we hacked a fix. So no further action has been taken. When I put her summer tires on the bike I'll take another stab at it with some of the techniques mentioned up thread.



    She's having such a blast we've got a couple friends looking at picking up the new steel MCs in 29er format when they are back in stock this year.

    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  38. #438
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    Glad to hear the rim is working for now, Vik.

    Looks kinda sticky out there.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  39. #439
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    wanted to say that I'm still thoroughly enjoying my MC.

    I really like how poppy it is. Many times when encountering a big root or something, it doesn't take much effort to pick up the front wheel and a little hop or swing out the rear end a little bit to get a little squirley. I'm also learning to do some small jumping with it, which it does fine. It really does feel like a big BMX bike.

    This is also the first bike I've owned that I genuinely love to look at, even looking down, those steel tubing lines just remind me of my old GT BMX.

    The only thing from the build that I do still feel would be an upgrade, would be a better engaging hub. That little delay and clunk in engagement is the only part that I'd like to eliminate, of course, that's really really nit-picking.

    Also, my dropper post has a bit of play. Not sure how normal that is.

  40. #440
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    Hey guys! I have had some amazing times on my Middle Child and am so glad I chose it as my first bike. However, I started racing collegiate downhill and needed to get a full squish. So as much as I'd love to keep my MC, I need to sell it in order to make the monthly payments for my new bike. If you are interesting in buying it, shoot me a dm!

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    wanted to say that I'm still thoroughly enjoying my MC.

    I really like how poppy it is. Many times when encountering a big root or something, it doesn't take much effort to pick up the front wheel and a little hop or swing out the rear end a little bit to get a little squirley. I'm also learning to do some small jumping with it, which it does fine. It really does feel like a big BMX bike.

    This is also the first bike I've owned that I genuinely love to look at, even looking down, those steel tubing lines just remind me of my old GT BMX.

    The only thing from the build that I do still feel would be an upgrade, would be a better engaging hub. That little delay and clunk in engagement is the only part that I'd like to eliminate, of course, that's really really nit-picking.

    Also, my dropper post has a bit of play. Not sure how normal that is.
    I agree. My MC is a one speed automatic for that reason, BMX with a pithy attitude! Onyx is one way to go, I9 and Project 321 are also fast engaging but don't match the Onyx in that regard.

    Quote Originally Posted by jtkyber View Post
    Hey guys! I have had some amazing times on my Middle Child and am so glad I chose it as my first bike. However, I started racing collegiate downhill and needed to get a full squish. So as much as I'd love to keep my MC, I need to sell it in order to make the monthly payments for my new bike. If you are interesting in buying it, shoot me a dm!
    Sad news but a good ending, perhaps. Need to mention size and build details tho'.
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  42. #442
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    It's a size large. Here is the Pinkbike link for all the details:

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2715262/

  43. #443
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    Snow is melting slowly and like I predicted, my daughter (12) has grown so much that our brand new Middlechild was too small for her. But my 11 years old son is now 5'4.5" so his sister's old bike was also too small.

    My son will ride the MC this summer and I'm stoked for him because his riding was improving a lot last year and a traditional xc bike (he was supposed to ride a Trek X-Caliber small) wouldn't have been ideal for his progression. I need to cut the steerer a bit, and the 780mm bars. Still waiting for the dropper hopefully en route from China.

    I'm building a medium Commencal Meta AM HT for my daughter. Geo is not the same but close enough (65 HA, CS 428, 140mm fork). Reach is shorter though and stack a little bit higher (compared to a medium MC). Finding a decent fork is hard (51mm offset 150mm) and I'm wondering how the bike would feel with a 46 or 44 offset. Any of you guys using such a fork on your MC?

    Last edited by LewisQC; 03-29-2020 at 06:15 PM.
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  44. #444
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    I'm running a 42mm offset pike on my mc and I love it. I can feel a small difference with shorter offset, but it's not night and day.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    I'm running a 42mm offset pike on my mc and I love it. I can feel a small difference with shorter offset, but it's not night and day.
    I guess it's not night and day but on a bike like this to me it makes sense. I wrote to Commencal and they said nono it's gonna slow the steering too much. So that's why I'm a little bit hesitant... If the total lenght of the bike is reduced and the steering is quieter at slow speed (less nervous)it seems to me that could be a good thing for my daughter...

    EDIT I might have found a 150mm Pike with 51mmoffset...
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  46. #446
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    I switched from a 51mm offset to a 44mm offset and prefer the shorter offset. With the 51mm i found the steering floppy at slow speeds and very stable at high speeds. The 44mm calms the steering down enough i don't feel like I have to focus on my handlebar flopping on technical climbs. From my experience is once the head angle gets slack (<66 degrees) a shorter offset makes more sense.
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  47. #447
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    What folks sometimes miss with the HA and fork combination is what happens with caster angle. A couple degrees makes a major difference in handling characteristics. It can become a chopper in a heartbeat.
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  48. #448
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    Swapped out the singlespeed, my knees just couldnt do it. Also upgraded to Maxxis wt dh tires. Shes definitely a keeper!
    I like bikes

  49. #449
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    I did the shorter gears to begin with and get back in the swing of SS. I live in the mountains so it took a bit of training to get past the outta shape thing and go taller. Definitely a keeper!
    I hafta keep the knees I have for a few more years if I can.
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  50. #450
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    The world's situation is putting a new bike into perspective... that being said these posts have kept me looking forward to the "light at the end of the tunnel" when hopefully I will be able to swing my leg over my new RSD. Obviously we all need to keep ourselves, family and friends safe- first and foremost. Looking forward to the new bike has been and continues to be therapeutic. That being said, keep posting those pictures!

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    The world's situation is putting a new bike into perspective... that being said these posts have kept me looking forward to the "light at the end of the tunnel" when hopefully I will be able to swing my leg over my new RSD. Obviously we all need to keep ourselves, family and friends safe- first and foremost. Looking forward to the new bike has been and continues to be therapeutic. That being said, keep posting those pictures!
    We are under "stay at home" but bicycling is not out as of yet. It isn't like most will be riding a tandem with a COVID carrier...
    It's really easy to keep plenty of distance from others with a MiddleChild, but any other bike is not capable of distancing! [sarcasm]

    If you can, break out the new bike and take a spin while using common sense and get to know that damn nice creation!
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  52. #452
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    We are under "stay at home" but bicycling is not out as of yet. It isn't like most will be riding a tandem with a COVID carrier...


    HAHA! Totally agree! I am still waiting for my Middle Child to arrive! May take a little longer than first thought... Hey life happens! I am grateful for what I have and my heart and prayers are going out to those that are facing obstacles. It just makes me appreciate the small things in life!

  53. #453
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    Good stuff, Gator! "Anticipation is makin' me wait!" Sounds like a ketchemup commercial...

    You are in for a really good time taking that first ride. The MC is refreshing on so many levels. It defies explaination so you get to experience it for yourself. It is said to be habit forming, it's soooo true!!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  54. #454
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    My MC took three rides to really click with it and learn its nuances. If you struggle on your first ride, withold judment 'till your third ride.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    My MC took three rides to really click with it and learn its nuances. If you struggle on your first ride, withold judment 'till your third ride.
    Since each bicycle has a personality, this is common. Peeps need to do their due diligence in getting to know their new bike regardless of manufacturer. That means doing the rides and tweaking to fit their needs and such.

    My MC was love at first pedalstroke and no sign of letting up!
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  56. #456
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    I still love mine! Still trying to get some cornering techinques down, but the bike is pretty forgiving in my opinion.

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    I still love mine! Still trying to get some cornering techinques down, but the bike is pretty forgiving in my opinion.
    The best part is getting out there and learning the bike's personality and groovin on it! All in all, very forgiving,indeed.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  58. #458
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    I posted on here probably 6mo ago about my initial dissatisfaction with my new MC. This was really just due to it feeling quite slow coming from a Spesh Fuse 6fattie. Here's my update.

    I quickly ditched the stock wheels for a set of Ibis S35 27.5s and went with much lower profile tires (2.8s; Rekon in front, Ikon in back). This really took care of the slowness issue right away. I've since logged >200mi on it with this config and I definitely really like the bike a lot. Still a little stiffer than I'd like, but I can deal.

    This last weekend, I decided to change over to a 29er config. This is represents a really nice little test of how these wheel sizes change the bike's handling as I went with Ibis S35 29er wheels and 29 x 2.6 Rekon in front, Ikon on back. So, exact same set up, but with 29ers and 2.6s. It definitely changed some things...I've ridden it twice now like this and only on a my homebase loop, which I have ridden many many times. Right off the bat, it is clearly not as nimble in front. More effort to steer, and a sense of the front wheel going to flop over. Not sure how else to describe it, but that's kinda what it feels like. The back end seems to kind of be a bit disconnected from the front. Not necessarily too badly, but it's an odd feeling. Some of this may have to do with tire pressure, as I'm running these a bit low, and never ran my 27.5s very low. That being said, the bike feels way more comfortable from a vibration/impact perspective. Again, partly prob due to tire pressure, but I think also the bigger hoops are more flexy. And, it feels probably more planted when climbing. Traction is still amazing, and probably not different from the 27.5x 2.8 set up. I do feel faster on it as a 29er. As we know, 29er wheels take a little bit more to get going but hold their speed better. That certainly seems to ring true as I hit PRs right off the bat.

    So, all this is to say, I'm not sure I really like it as much as a 29er. Or, maybe it's just a game of tradeoffs. I think I'll ride it for a little while longer as a 29er, and on some longer rides to see how she does. I'm thinking I may go back to 27.5 and I'm wondering...I know some on here has been riding it with 3.0s - which tires fit? And on which wheels have they been tried? I know it's not designed to go bigger than 2.8s, but there is certainly a bit of variability btw rim and tire combos. I LOVED my Fuse with 3.0s. It was like a rocketship with velcro when you needed it. I got rid of it b/c I really do love steel and wanted to be able to go SS. Wish I still had it, even though I have come to really like my MC.

    Feel free to ask further questions about my little test described above!

  59. #459
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    With the mc, I find 29s to be faster (more prs), but 27.5+ to be more fun (usually). I'm always faster on my fs anyway, so I set mine up for fun.

    Give the 2.8s a try with lower pressure. You'll be surprised. I've run 2.8s as low as 11 psi with cushcore, and as long as I'm not ripping corners really hard, i dig it. The purpose of the plus tires is to let air out of them, otherwise they're not a huge advantage.

    I've run a wrb ranger 3.0 on the back of mine. It was closed but it never rubbed.

  60. #460
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    hgraves,

    I run exclusively b3.0's since there is room to do so with the edge of tread clearing with 7-8mm to spare, sliders slammed forward.
    Tire crown clearance is massive at this setting.
    My fork is a Pike 150mm travel 46mm rake. 51 at that travel would lend too much caster and cause the "wheel flop" sensation to be very noticeable. While I do want to try out 29, 2.6 is the one feature holding this one back.
    On 29... I have a funny feeling that 29 would make me have to rethink gearing all over again. Go figure! Not a deal breaker but something to do that will piss off my bike!!

    I am a trials based rider and therefore, light on the bike as possible. This comes from many years of seatless bike observed trials experince. It allows for lower tire pressure than most people can ride but that ability to be on velcro is a blessing. Also of note, I do choose the line more so than many since I have no desire to make this awesome bike a boat anchor with tires that weigh in like 4.8's!

    With loads of flow trails where I ride, the MC does a bang up job that a Special Ed didn't really seem as good in my experience.
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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by hgravez View Post
    I posted on here probably 6mo ago about my initial dissatisfaction with my new MC. This was really just due to it feeling quite slow coming from a Spesh Fuse 6fattie. Here's my update.

    I quickly ditched the stock wheels for a set of Ibis S35 27.5s and went with much lower profile tires (2.8s; Rekon in front, Ikon in back). This really took care of the slowness issue right away. I've since logged >200mi on it with this config and I definitely really like the bike a lot. Still a little stiffer than I'd like, but I can deal.

    This last weekend, I decided to change over to a 29er config. This is represents a really nice little test of how these wheel sizes change the bike's handling as I went with Ibis S35 29er wheels and 29 x 2.6 Rekon in front, Ikon on back. So, exact same set up, but with 29ers and 2.6s. It definitely changed some things...I've ridden it twice now like this and only on a my homebase loop, which I have ridden many many times. Right off the bat, it is clearly not as nimble in front. More effort to steer, and a sense of the front wheel going to flop over. Not sure how else to describe it, but that's kinda what it feels like. The back end seems to kind of be a bit disconnected from the front. Not necessarily too badly, but it's an odd feeling. Some of this may have to do with tire pressure, as I'm running these a bit low, and never ran my 27.5s very low. That being said, the bike feels way more comfortable from a vibration/impact perspective. Again, partly prob due to tire pressure, but I think also the bigger hoops are more flexy. And, it feels probably more planted when climbing. Traction is still amazing, and probably not different from the 27.5x 2.8 set up. I do feel faster on it as a 29er. As we know, 29er wheels take a little bit more to get going but hold their speed better. That certainly seems to ring true as I hit PRs right off the bat.

    So, all this is to say, I'm not sure I really like it as much as a 29er. Or, maybe it's just a game of tradeoffs. I think I'll ride it for a little while longer as a 29er, and on some longer rides to see how she does. I'm thinking I may go back to 27.5 and I'm wondering...I know some on here has been riding it with 3.0s - which tires fit? And on which wheels have they been tried? I know it's not designed to go bigger than 2.8s, but there is certainly a bit of variability btw rim and tire combos. I LOVED my Fuse with 3.0s. It was like a rocketship with velcro when you needed it. I got rid of it b/c I really do love steel and wanted to be able to go SS. Wish I still had it, even though I have come to really like my MC.

    Feel free to ask further questions about my little test described above!
    What do you meean by ** a sense of the front wheel going to flop over**
    The last 3 seasons i enjoyed a HT 21 pounds 29x2.3 obviously nice for accelereations and usefull on many terrains. It started as 100mm but last season i went to 120mm. Last season i did 3 months on a 120mm HT 27.5x2.8. My Rekons were at 13psi and it was just real fun after 2 weeks of dialing it properly.
    I just enjoy having 2 used bikes and no need to change wheels. The + tires do better in spring and fall and the thin ones are a nice change. Going to a bike would be realy hard. Winter is on 4.8 studded.

  62. #462
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    33red, try riding a chopper, then you will understand what too much caster does to steering.
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  63. #463
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    Got in a much bigger ride today and I think I'm getting used to the slower front end. It is most noticeable in slow sections with active turning required. But, I totally destroyed my PRs on many sections of trail. It is so much faster with 29ers, and that increases the fun factor for me! So, maybe I'll keep it like this for a bit. For some reason, it still feels more comfortable from a vibration standpoint with the 29ers, even after adding back a little air before my ride today.

    I've got a custom Ripmo 2 on order, and might just pick up a new Fuse as well. Just for kicks! Good to have variety and I can't roll with just 1 bike for too long!

    33red, the sense that I'm trying to describe is that turns give the bike a funny sort of unstable feeling in some cases. Primarily slow moving sections of trail. On the other hand, it seems very stable at speed. I've owned/ridden many 29ers over the past 15 years. This is a different scenario when we're talking a 140mm fork and <65 deg HA. This geometry is a huge departure from most 29er HTs and didn't even really exist until the last few years.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by hgravez View Post
    Got in a much bigger ride today and I think I'm getting used to the slower front end. It is most noticeable in slow sections with active turning required. But, I totally destroyed my PRs on many sections of trail. It is so much faster with 29ers, and that increases the fun factor for me! So, maybe I'll keep it like this for a bit. For some reason, it still feels more comfortable from a vibration standpoint with the 29ers, even after adding back a little air before my ride today.

    I've got a custom Ripmo 2 on order, and might just pick up a new Fuse as well. Just for kicks! Good to have variety and I can't roll with just 1 bike for too long!

    33red, the sense that I'm trying to describe is that turns give the bike a funny sort of unstable feeling in some cases. Primarily slow moving sections of trail. On the other hand, it seems very stable at speed. I've owned/ridden many 29ers over the past 15 years. This is a different scenario when we're talking a 140mm fork and <65 deg HA. This geometry is a huge departure from most 29er HTs and didn't even really exist until the last few years.
    I can relate to the addiction, my friend! I don't really notice any handling issue at any speed since I know all too well what twitchy is from riding my seatless trials bike, you want twitchy, get an Echo or Jitsie under your 5-10's!
    As for speed, that happens when gearing is dialed into the bike's wheel size and rider preference. Get into your powerband, get comfortable and pedal! Oh, what a feeling...
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  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    33red, try riding a chopper, then you will understand what too much caster does to steering.
    Im running a 160 29er fork with 51 offset. Theres no flop (unless your riding no hands) and all I ride is New England tech, of course I dont run narrow bars and a long stem...
    I like bikes

  66. #466
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    Really a great bike! I think a lighter wheel set/tire combo would be even better for a 100lbs rider but we're gonna keep it stock for now... Just need some bigger jumps now and our dropper.

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  67. #467
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    Good stuff, Lewis!

    Had the Wildcat and MC both out on Saturday and again today. Warm and damn nice yesterday and cold/overcast today.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  68. #468
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    eh, not a mc...though rode one and loved it...just not on the flat tight twisties....but the sergeant in SS and mullet mode is a thing of wonder fwiw. I love the longlowslack but in my eastcoast area ya gotta pick your weapon to match the conditions and the sarge really showed its mettle with the (all around) trails as well as trips to pisgah...it's not a hellion m-c but I got to say its a great all-round contender and perfect for fast singletrack'n with lotsa tight turns.....no probs with the durocs...my fav setup is rocket ron 2.8 27.5 rear, spec butcher grid 29, 2.6 front....oval blackspire front ring and SS laughing as I pass all the fs fully geared up the hills.
    then crying as they all pass me downhill....sadddd
    great bike...more versatile

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownplus View Post
    eh, not a mc...though rode one and loved it...just not on the flat tight twisties....but the sergeant in SS and mullet mode is a thing of wonder fwiw. I love the longlowslack but in my eastcoast area ya gotta pick your weapon to match the conditions and the sarge really showed its mettle with the (all around) trails as well as trips to pisgah...it's not a hellion m-c but I got to say its a great all-round contender and perfect for fast singletrack'n with lotsa tight turns.....no probs with the durocs...my fav setup is rocket ron 2.8 27.5 rear, spec butcher grid 29, 2.6 front....oval blackspire front ring and SS laughing as I pass all the fs fully geared up the hills.
    then crying as they all pass me downhill....sadddd
    great bike...more versatile
    I have a Sarge V3, built out as a mid fat that rides like magic on 3.8 FBR's for summer dirtin, Van Helga 4.0's for winter antics. I can say as an being owned by both a MiddleChild and a Sergeant V3, they are vastly different personalities but both are the most wonderful bikes on earth.

    The V3... I have been thinking on 29+ with a firm expectation of 3.0 or 3.25 and not even thinking on anything with less volume. As it stands, the FBR's are lighter than the FBF in the same size and are far more reliable in terms of traction, confidence and their ability to not wash out unexpectedly. I do have the parts to make it a one speed automatic as well. SS gearing to be determined...

    MiddleChild. One of the finest behaving dirt racers I have! Conquers the trails in the rocks, roots and everything between with a very playful, nimble attitude. Ascents, descents, straights, curves, it's a blessing in tennis ball yellow that aggravates 2.WTF tire bikes without trying. Pithy little bastard just eats up the dirt and feels amazing at any speed, in any terrain.

    Frankly, I find the V3, as a rigid to be a return to the starting point with far better geometry, far better performance than I was using in the 70's on fire roads or anything else we could muster at the time. Sarge can be a pithy fat dirt racer at times, just the same.

    I love my RSD bikes cause they are awesome and didn't cost as much as a freakin car!
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  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownplus View Post
    eh, not a mc...though rode one and loved it...just not on the flat tight twisties....but the sergeant in SS and mullet mode is a thing of wonder fwiw. I love the longlowslack but in my eastcoast area ya gotta pick your weapon to match the conditions and the sarge really showed its mettle with the (all around) trails as well as trips to pisgah...it's not a hellion m-c but I got to say its a great all-round contender and perfect for fast singletrack'n with lotsa tight turns.....no probs with the durocs...my fav setup is rocket ron 2.8 27.5 rear, spec butcher grid 29, 2.6 front....oval blackspire front ring and SS laughing as I pass all the fs fully geared up the hills.
    then crying as they all pass me downhill....sadddd
    great bike...more versatile
    I would like to try one myself. Not sure for a 5'4" 100lbs 11 years old boy it would be a great choice. Our trail have lots of up and down and some pretty technical stuff. I think the geo of the middle child (or any aggressive hardtail) is a good choice for progression, learning to jump, riding more difficult trail, etc... The Duroc seems like a good wheelset but at 2150g I could easily shed 1.5 pound with something lighter and a pair of 800-850 g tires (rekon or XR4). I think that would make quite a difference for a smaller rider...

    I'm building a medium commencal meta am HT (29er wheelset with 2.3 tires) for my daughter and it should weight around 27,5lbs so almost 3lbs lighter than the small MC...
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  71. #471
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    Lewis, look at the weight of most bikes directed toward the kid segment, they are made of rebar and weigh the same as some of the most rotund fatbikes! Just sayin'...
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  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Lewis, look at the weight of most bikes directed toward the kid segment, they are made of rebar and weigh the same as some of the most rotund fatbikes! Just sayin'...
    ahahah good point! I remember their 16" bikes were the same weight than my FS bike!! Anyway I knew what I was doing when I bought the MC. I was buying geo, unbeatable spec for the price and a solid bike overall. I can move parts on a bigger frame when my son outgrow this one. But for a not so powerful rider, rotational weight and rolling resistance comes into play for longer rides or long climbs. Will see how it goes if we even get the chance to ride a proper trail this summer I don't have the budget for another wheelset at the moment anyway...
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  73. #473
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    Lewis, there's a reason Sunspot still has the MuleFut 50's and not a pair of Onyx in the center of some custom anodized rims with silver stainless spokes between the rims and hubs! They are expensive as it gets to build regardless of the "Carbon Tax Penalty" applied.
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  74. #474
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    Real talk. Im really really interested in this bike- living and riding in PHX. My current bike is not waving my flag. 69* HTA and limited to a 120 mm fork.

    What would I be giving up by opting for the Alu MC vs the cromo?
    Shiftin' jumps and huckin' gears

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Real talk. Im really really interested in this bike- living and riding in PHX. My current bike is not waving my flag. 69* HTA and limited to a 120 mm fork.

    What would I be giving up by opting for the Alu MC vs the cromo?
    Hard to tell without the Aluminum one being available- I think ETA is July. Spec is different but can swap that- steel frame is on the stiffer side as people observe and is heavier and more expensive. Aluminum may be really stiff or may not be- only time will tell. I know that doesnt help. I can offer to give you my thoughts when I get the Crome version in- with the current circumstances I think itll take a few more weeks.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Real talk. Im really really interested in this bike- living and riding in PHX. My current bike is not waving my flag. 69* HTA and limited to a 120 mm fork.

    What would I be giving up by opting for the Alu MC vs the cromo?
    The honest answer... Color choice and the steel frame is a lil more coin, so coin and for the Gucci model there's always Ti!!

    AS for stiffness, they will be quite similar between Al and Fe. Ti will be more compliant.

    Gator, the steel frames are in or due in any day now, if I remember correctly.
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  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Gator, the steel frames are in or due in any day now, if I remember correctly.
    Just got my email yesterday from Alex- should be shipping soon!

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    Just got my email yesterday from Alex- should be shipping soon!
    Another one ride the bike, do, do do, another one rides the bike!!

    Need Wierd Al Yankovic to rewrite the song to fit properly!!
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  79. #479
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    I'm really close to ordering an aluminum MC 29 but I can't decide if I want the raw finish or dark teal. Has anyone ordered one or the other and wish they chose differently? I like the look of the teal paint but raw seems like it will look better over time with less wear since no paint. The raw looks nice as well so I'm stuck on which to order.

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    I'm really close to ordering an aluminum MC 29 but I can't decide if I want the raw finish or dark teal. Has anyone ordered one or the other and wish they chose differently? I like the look of the teal paint but raw seems like it will look better over time with less wear since no paint. The raw looks nice as well so I'm stuck on which to order.
    I have not seen an AL MC in the wild online so I don't think anybody has one to provide feedback. I like raw metal bikes so that would be my choice if I was ordering one.
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  81. #481
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    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo

    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    I'm really close to ordering an aluminum MC 29 but I can't decide if I want the raw finish or dark teal. Has anyone ordered one or the other and wish they chose differently? I like the look of the teal paint but raw seems like it will look better over time with less wear since no paint. The raw looks nice as well so I'm stuck on which to order.
    Where did you see a pic of the teal paint?
    This color intrigues me as well.

    Ill be honest, Id be ordering just a frame, and since my current build is blue- hubs, nipples, bars, clamps, etc Id likely stick with raw as well.

    Steve from Hardtail Party replies to a comment on his Banshee Paradox YouTube review that he would try to do a review of the Al MC if he got his hands on one. Id love to hear his thoughts, given his experience on the Ti and CroMo.


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  82. #482
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    That'd be a tough choice! Raw looks cool, but I like color, so I'd prob go with the dark teal.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Where did you see a pic of the teal paint?
    This color intrigues me as well.

    Ill be honest, Id be ordering just a frame, and since my current build is blue- hubs, nipples, bars, clamps, etc Id likely stick with raw as well.

    Steve from Hardtail Party replies to a comment on his Banshee Paradox YouTube review that he would try to do a review of the Al MC if he got his hands on one. Id love to hear his thoughts, given his experience on the Ti and CroMo.


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    The website shows pics of teal on chro bikes so I assumed it would be the same color. Maybe I was wrong about the teal on chro matching the teal on aluminum.

  84. #484
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    Think the Rockshox Recon RL (32 mm stanchions) will be a let down on the aluminum bike? I know something has to give to make a $1500 bike though. My primary trail bike is a Ripmo and the MC will be for riding with my kids and generally having fun around the neighborhood, jumping, practicing wheelies, manuals, etc. I ride clipped in on the Ripmo and will leave flats on the MC to work on a different skill set. My last few bikes have been higher end builds so just trying to get my expectations straight. I only weigh 170 lbs so that helps.

  85. #485
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    Aluminum isn't avail till July- I believe. I came off a RS Sektor and found the fork to be decent. I ride a Pike now and it is a better fork compared to the Sektor. But street tooling with the kids? I think it would work fine. Especially at 170lb.s. I weigh... more... and the fork performed for me.

    Having ridden higher end builds you'll notice a difference but not to an extreme extent IMHO.

  86. #486
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    Aluminum MC should be available mid May.
    The Dark Teal images will be posted in 7-10 days. The Cr-Mo colour is Turquoise. Not the same at all.
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  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSD Bikes View Post
    Aluminum MC should be available mid May.
    The Dark Teal images will be posted in 7-10 days. The Cr-Mo colour is Turquoise. Not the same at all.
    May is a lot sooner than July! Sorry Alex- my bad!

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    May is a lot sooner than July! Sorry Alex- my bad!
    Does that make us "early"? That might be a first in the industry....
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  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSD Bikes View Post
    Does that make us "early"? That might be a first in the industry....
    You're still late for supper, Mister!!
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  90. #490
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    just looking for that aluminum give-away drawing (if still happening), I love my MC Cr-Mo so much. Wouldn't mind the Alu!!

  91. #491
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    Anyone on the fence about getting this bike, I still highly recommend it. It is just a fun bike all the time. It climbs anything, then turns right around and descends anything you throw at it. I got a fancy new FS bike at the end of last season, I have yet to take it off its hook this spring. I have been having a blast riding my MiddleChild. RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-rock_moment.jpgRSD MIddleChild - CrMo-20200420_131423.jpg

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9GUY9 View Post
    Anyone on the fence about getting this bike, I still highly recommend it. It is just a fun bike all the time. It climbs anything, then turns right around and descends anything you throw at it. I got a fancy new FS bike at the end of last season, I have yet to take it off its hook this spring. I have been having a blast riding my MiddleChild. Click image for larger version. 

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    What wheel size is on your fs and MC? I'm on a Ripmo (29) and debating which MC wheel size to get. Keep it simple and get the 29 so I can share wheels and tires if needed, or mix it up and get the 27.5+ to try something different. I like the idea of a 27.5+ being more playful as some have said but I'm used to 29 and can really appreciate the extra rolloverness (or whatever you want to call it) that 29 offers. Finding a 27.5+ hardtail to demo is pretty much impossible.

  93. #493
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    I vote for 27.5+ then you can still run your ripmo wheels on the rsd. Best of both worlds. Just make sure your rotors and cassettes are the same size.

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    I vote for 27.5+ then you can still run your ripmo wheels on the rsd. Best of both worlds. Just make sure your rotors and cassettes are the same size.
    Appreciate the input. Since this will be a "play" bike I think 27.5+ makes sense. I don't really care about going fast or covering big mileage. Matching the rotors is no issue but I have a SRAM GX cassette on the Ripmo. Thinking I'll save up a bit more and get the steel MC which comes with Shimano components.

    Love your channel by the way. The bunny hop challenge with Syd had me trying the same thing (not on your channel I know). I maxed out at 19" but I've got to try again.

  95. #495
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    With a 27 you might have 3 bikes, with hybrid 29-27

  96. #496
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    mblittle, I run my MC and Wildcat with 27.5, i45's and 3.0's cause it works for my antics and trialsy riding style.

    Bunny hop contest? I can sidehop 3' routinely although, that is done from the rear wheel.

    9guy9, bike is lookin great! Nice wheels as well.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    What wheel size is on your fs and MC? I'm on a Ripmo (29) and debating which MC wheel size to get. Keep it simple and get the 29 so I can share wheels and tires if needed, or mix it up and get the 27.5+ to try something different. I like the idea of a 27.5+ being more playful as some have said but I'm used to 29 and can really appreciate the extra rolloverness (or whatever you want to call it) that 29 offers. Finding a 27.5+ hardtail to demo is pretty much impossible.
    like these other guys have said 27+ is my choice. I am a heavy rider at 250lbs, and ride fairly hard. A 3" tire is just fun, I ride to have fun. My new FS bike is a 29'r, however I am looking for a set of 27+ wheels for it. My last FS bike was a 27+ Pony Rustler. I loved that bike, it was quick, playful, efficient, and I could ride it all day. Only problem was I broke 2 frames, I then decided to move on.

    If you currently have a 29'r Ripmo I would for sure get a 27+ Middle Child. That way you have a wheelset of each size. You can play with swapping wheels and see what you prefer.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    Just got my email yesterday from Alex- should be shipping soon!
    Anyone get a shipping email yet? I can't wait. I'm dreaming about this bike every night.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    just looking for that aluminum give-away drawing (if still happening), I love my MC Cr-Mo so much. Wouldn't mind the Alu!!
    Me also! Winner, Winner? RSD will probably give everyone a drum roll before the drawing....not many days left in April.

  100. #500
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    Saw on their website that the draw has been delayed to late May, probably due to shipping concerns.

  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by stm32disco View Post
    Anyone get a shipping email yet? I can't wait. I'm dreaming about this bike every night.
    When I spoke with Alex it sounds very, very soon! What did you get? I got an orange full build with a dropper- very, very excited!

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    When I spoke with Alex it sounds very, very soon! What did you get? I got an orange full build with a dropper- very, very excited!
    Just a stealth black frame. I have a 140mm Revelation and some DT Swiss 27.5+ wheels to put on it. It's going to be my second bike for bumming around the neighbourhood and casual riding with the family so I'm sure it get used way more than my full squish.

  103. #503
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    Gator and Disco are jonesin, hard!!!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  104. #504
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    I'd vote for a 27+ if you already have a Ripmo. That being said, I switched from 27+ to 29 recently on my MC and I don't think I'll be going back anytime soon. At some point, to give more comparison, but not soon. The reason being that I have been crushing it on the MC with 29ers. It is soooooo much faster climbing and descending. With 29x2.6 (Rekon in front, Ikon in rear), on Ibis S35 wheels, it actually feels more comfortable than the same setup in 27.5x2.8s. Perhaps I never rode the pressure low enough on the 27.5s, but the 29er setup is more comfortable (more give and shock absorption) even at relatively high pressures (20-24psi). The only thing I can figure is that the wheels are more flexy. Anyway, I'm having so much more fun on it with 29s. Alas, it is the only bike I have right now....recently sold an Ibis Ripley LS and waiting to pick up a custom Ripmo V2 that I ordered.

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by hgravez View Post
    I'd vote for a 27+ if you already have a Ripmo. That being said, I switched from 27+ to 29 recently on my MC and I don't think I'll be going back anytime soon. At some point, to give more comparison, but not soon. The reason being that I have been crushing it on the MC with 29ers. It is soooooo much faster climbing and descending. With 29x2.6 (Rekon in front, Ikon in rear), on Ibis S35 wheels, it actually feels more comfortable than the same setup in 27.5x2.8s. Perhaps I never rode the pressure low enough on the 27.5s, but the 29er setup is more comfortable (more give and shock absorption) even at relatively high pressures (20-24psi). The only thing I can figure is that the wheels are more flexy. Anyway, I'm having so much more fun on it with 29s. Alas, it is the only bike I have right now....recently sold an Ibis Ripley LS and waiting to pick up a custom Ripmo V2 that I ordered.
    What were your tires on 27?
    Do you have has much grip?

  106. #506
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    Exact same wheels and tires (Ibis S35 with Rekon in front, Ikon in back), but in 27+. Don't feel any loss of traction/grip. Its pretty incredible that the bike feels so much faster and more comfortable with minimal negatives - just the steering is little funky but only noticeable on the road. I described that in a prior post.

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by hgravez View Post
    I'd vote for a 27+ if you already have a Ripmo. That being said, I switched from 27+ to 29 recently on my MC and I don't think I'll be going back anytime soon. At some point, to give more comparison, but not soon. The reason being that I have been crushing it on the MC with 29ers. It is soooooo much faster climbing and descending. With 29x2.6 (Rekon in front, Ikon in rear), on Ibis S35 wheels, it actually feels more comfortable than the same setup in 27.5x2.8s. Perhaps I never rode the pressure low enough on the 27.5s, but the 29er setup is more comfortable (more give and shock absorption) even at relatively high pressures (20-24psi). The only thing I can figure is that the wheels are more flexy. Anyway, I'm having so much more fun on it with 29s. Alas, it is the only bike I have right now....recently sold an Ibis Ripley LS and waiting to pick up a custom Ripmo V2 that I ordered.
    Proper pressure, proper body english, regardless of diameter is essential.
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  108. #508
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    Ti mc in xc mode. This weighs in well under 26 pounds without pedals.

    120mm stepcast 34
    Enve m525 wheels
    Light 2.25 tires.

    This steepened the seat angle a bit, and steepens the head angle to 66*. So fun to shred.

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_20200425_152731_870.jpg

    It's pretty amazing having a frame that rides xc so well, but can still take the abuse when the trail gets rough.

  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Proper pressure, proper body english, regardless of diameter is essential.
    So I just converted my MC to tubeless after popping one of the tubes.

    I went with Orange Endurance sealant and some bling-ey oil-slick muc-off valves. And was able to do both tires myself! I was real hesitant to get to do this as last time I had tubes converted the shop wasn't able to do one of them, so i thought it'd be real hard. But honestly, I found a technique that worked for me real well. Although, I didn't have to seat both beads, as one was still seated... still it worked!

    In regards to proper pressure. I have a standard 'track pump' for road bikes that doesn't really have accurate enough pressure reading.

    So, I assume the best way to accurately get to proper pressure will be to get an accurate pressure gauge and bleed off until my desired pressure?

    Questions:
    What type of pressure gauge is recommended? A digital one? I heard they will also eventually be ruined by the sealant so I guess I don't want to spend a ton on it?

    How do I determine the proper pressure? I'll say my riding weight is probably 180lbs.

    And lastly, I've not adjusted any of the air pressure in the Pike fork, how do I also determine the right pressure here and how are you pumping this up? Specific shock pump?

    Sorry for all the noob questions

  110. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    Ti mc in xc mode. This weighs in well under 26 pounds without pedals.

    120mm stepcast 34
    Enve m525 wheels
    Light 2.25 tires.

    This steepened the seat angle a bit, and steepens the head angle to 66*. So fun to shred.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's pretty amazing having a frame that rides xc so well, but can still take the abuse when the trail gets rough.
    I would just love a 26 pounds HT 120. I guess it is 29?
    Retail price?

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    So I just converted my MC to tubeless after popping one of the tubes.

    I went with Orange Endurance sealant and some bling-ey oil-slick muc-off valves. And was able to do both tires myself! I was real hesitant to get to do this as last time I had tubes converted the shop wasn't able to do one of them, so i thought it'd be real hard. But honestly, I found a technique that worked for me real well. Although, I didn't have to seat both beads, as one was still seated... still it worked!

    In regards to proper pressure. I have a standard 'track pump' for road bikes that doesn't really have accurate enough pressure reading.

    So, I assume the best way to accurately get to proper pressure will be to get an accurate pressure gauge and bleed off until my desired pressure?

    Questions:
    What type of pressure gauge is recommended? A digital one? I heard they will also eventually be ruined by the sealant so I guess I don't want to spend a ton on it?

    How do I determine the proper pressure? I'll say my riding weight is probably 180lbs.

    And lastly, I've not adjusted any of the air pressure in the Pike fork, how do I also determine the right pressure here and how are you pumping this up? Specific shock pump?

    Sorry for all the noob questions
    Hi. Congrats for your tubeless setup! Are you running a 27.5+ setup or 29er? I've not use 27.5 myself but I'm guessing around 17 to 20 psi depending on casing of your tire and the kind of trails you ride. But others with real life experience will probably comment... For a 29er setup at your weight it would be around 22-24 front and 26-30 rear. I have a topeak smart gauge and it still works great for our 5 tubeless bikes. So no worry for sealant. I really like GH Meiser pressure gauge for a fat bike (0-15 psi) or mtb (0-30). They're a bit fragile if you drop them...

    Experiment with pressure and always with the same gauge so you'll know what feels right for your riding...
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  112. #512
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    I second the Meiser gauges although, my index finger-thumb gauge works very well.
    drivera, this is the place to ask q's related to your MC and such.

    The Pike is easy to get a starting point value from the RS website. It is recommendations based on rider weight. That serves as a starting point and leaves you the option to experiment as you learn the fork performance.

    Hardtail party, the only difference between street, XC and rowdy bike is the tires I inflate that day! Otherwise, never screw up an addiction...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  113. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    I second the Meiser gauges although, my index finger-thumb gauge works very well.
    drivera, this is the place to ask q's related to your MC and such.

    The Pike is easy to get a starting point value from the RS website. It is recommendations based on rider weight. That serves as a starting point and leaves you the option to experiment as you learn the fork performance.

    Hardtail party, the only difference between street, XC and rowdy bike is the tires I inflate that day! Otherwise, never screw up an addiction...

    yes, yes. Sorry about the non-related MC questions. I'll research additionally in the rest of the internets!

    Thank you for the suggestions.

  114. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    yes, yes. Sorry about the non-related MC questions. I'll research additionally in the rest of the internets!

    Thank you for the suggestions.
    It's all good, buddy! We're all here with a common interest in the MC and are also having other conversation along the way.
    You might look into a pump that can be carried along while riding. I have the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HV on each of my plus bikes. I also bought a Green Guru Shifter seat bag for the bicycle first aid kit where I keep a tube, patch kit, a couple tools and tire levers as well as the Meiser gauge.
    Meiser gauges are on Amazon at a reasonable price. This makes tire adjustments on the trail easier and more doable without worry of going too low for the rest of a ride.

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_1362.jpg
    Pump on the frame is handy, as is the seat bag first aid kit.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  115. #515
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    FS: Baron MK3 Wheelset w/ Butcher/Slaughter Tires

    Anybody interested in a 27.5+ wheelset? I have an almost-new Stan's Baron Mk3 Wheelset w/ Specialized Butcher/Slaughter 2.8 tires that I'm looking to unload. Shimano HG freehub.

    Brand-new the wheelset alone is $699, and the tires are $60/ea. I have less than 100 miles on the wheels/tires. Everything in great condition, as you might expect with so few miles. I'm thinking $550 OBO for the set, with either local pickup in SF Bay Area or buyer pays shipping. If interested, please shoot me a DM.




    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-jy8aucih.jpg  

    Last edited by ghebinkim; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:23 PM. Reason: Added photos and added OBO to price

  116. #516
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    It arrived. I may just hang it on the wall as art.

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-mc1.jpgRSD MIddleChild - CrMo-mc2.jpgRSD MIddleChild - CrMo-mc3.jpg

  117. #517
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    That's hot!

  118. #518
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    Disco's chore is cut... When can we ride it??
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  119. #519
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    What size is that?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    I would just love a 26 pounds HT 120. I guess it is 29?
    Retail price?
    Yes, I'm running 29" wheels here. There are cheaper ways to get a light bike, but I haven't found one that rides like this yet.

    Retail price would be absurd. I've got these wheels and fork in for review on another bike and I thought it'd be fun to toss them on here. I'm so glad I did, because it completely changed the vibe of the bike.

  121. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    What size is that?
    Large

  122. #522
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    that frame looks evil in black.

  123. #523
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    We just received our KS-Lev-Integra dropper (b.o. in 125mm this winter), so I thought I'd post some pics of our final build... The bike is a little bit muddy but that black frame is really awesome in person.

    Everything is stock except PNW Loam grips, One up composite pedals and 165mm RF Atlas cranks. I've cut maybe 30mm from the handlebars. I know my son will outgrow his small frame pretty fast (one or two years?) so I'm still hesitant to cut the steerer. I'll probably cut 10mm...

    This bike feels like a mini-tank and I can't wait to see how my son will improve on our trail this summer (it appears that trail systems in our area will open with some distanciation mesures...)






    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_3760-1-.jpg  

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_1756-1-.jpg  

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_1757-1-.jpg  

    Last edited by LewisQC; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:47 PM.
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  124. #524
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    Lookin' good, Lewis!

    There are going to be a bucha peeps taking delivery as of late with the arrival of the new batch of bikes. Hope some of em stop here and post their rides and experiences.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  125. #525
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    First MiddleChild test on the dirt on my brother's property... For sizing reference my son is around 5'5"



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  126. #526
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    Thanks, Lewis! Good times being had out there, doesn't get better than that.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  127. #527
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    Any opinions on running the MC in mullet mode? I like the idea of extra volume in the rear, but I also love the way my 29er rolls. With the right fork, geo could remain pretty close, no? Ill have a large turquoise MC frame arriving Thursday and want to get some new wheels built.

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    Any opinions on running the MC in mullet mode? I like the idea of extra volume in the rear, but I also love the way my 29er rolls. With the right fork, geo could remain pretty close, no? Ill have a large turquoise MC frame arriving Thursday and want to get some new wheels built.
    I bought a 100mm HT 3 years ago. After 2 years when my fork was due for maintenance i had it modified to 120mm. I have not noticed any negative. A small change is just that a small change. With a 3.0 rear i would not hesitate but check if your fork will fit.

  129. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    Any opinions on running the MC in mullet mode? I like the idea of extra volume in the rear, but I also love the way my 29er rolls. With the right fork, geo could remain pretty close, no? Ill have a large turquoise MC frame arriving Thursday and want to get some new wheels built.
    Congratz on the MC! You are in for a real good time getting to know this bike. The frame is very nicely designed and made.

    Don't even try to compare 29 x 2.4 or lesser tires to 2.8/3.0. Apples and moldy oranges is where that goes.
    A 29 x 2.6 front, maybe but I'd best reserve comment on the massive diffeerence in air volume.

    Frankly, 27.5 x real 2.8 as measured with an L.S. Starrett caliper will be very close if not par with a 29minus in terms of diameter. That leaves you and I with a tire/wheel that has the same approach angle.

    On the 29 front, the only reason I have not tried 29 x 2.6 is that missing air volume of 2.8 (true measure) and that just sours the milk.

    With my addiction to my MC, I do run a pair of G-Ones for street session and love the hell out of em. Fast, nimble and efficient with a volume that satisfies my plus need. Primarily, I run 3.0's for the fact that they offer a good ride quality while offering amazing traction and functionality.

    Now, back to the mullet idea... I think it is a great experiment to fulfill. While I would love to do it, I don't really want the expense of a wheel that likely will and up hanging around and not be used much, if at all. If I run across someone I can borrow a wheel from, it's on! Dunno how it will ride and feel tho', til we experiment.

    My MC is a singlespeed that serves well on speed runs through flow trails, trialsy play, a few runs down Valhalla, many, many desert rides and everything in between. The performance is exquisite and in a class of its own so I try to not distract from that. I love this bike and its handling as well as overall performance to the extent that those experiments last hours if not minutes and end so I have the performance dirt racer in good form and at the ready for an endorphin and adrenaline overload. The experience with the MC is unique and cannot be duplicated.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    I bought a 100mm HT 3 years ago. After 2 years when my fork was due for maintenance i had it modified to 120mm. I have not noticed any negative. A small change is just that a small change. With a 3.0 rear i would not hesitate but check if your fork will fit.
    A/C is going to amplify the larger front wheel's effect on caster...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  131. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    Any opinions on running the MC in mullet mode? I like the idea of extra volume in the rear, but I also love the way my 29er rolls. With the right fork, geo could remain pretty close, no? Ill have a large turquoise MC frame arriving Thursday and want to get some new wheels built.
    For what it's worth (not much) I saw a guy on a youtube who's testing bikes and when he try a hardtail (pole, banshee, etc), he always end-up running it mullet style. It seems to work for him. I'm not sure it would made that much difference. If I end-up with a MC one day (high probability) I might swap some wheels from our different bikes to try it...

    Here's his video of the Paradox

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cktW_jCnUfY
    Last edited by LewisQC; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:27 PM.
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  132. #532
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    For those that received frames, do they come with the ZS44 headset and rear axle? I've read different things. If not, anyone have the P/N for the headset? I've got most of the big bits coming outside of the drivetrain, so should have it put together in a few weeks.

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    For those that received frames, do they come with the ZS44 headset and rear axle? I've read different things. If not, anyone have the P/N for the headset? I've got most of the big bits coming outside of the drivetrain, so should have it put together in a few weeks.
    Headset and axle are included as is the seat post clamp.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  134. #534
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    I'm receiving my XL tomorrow and have most of the parts, will build as 27.5+. Will use Cane Creek Helm Air, but not sure what travel to set. It's going to be my everyday trail bike. What travel did you prefer geometry wise?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    Will use Cane Creek Helm Air, but not sure what travel to set. It's going to be my everyday trail bike. What travel did you prefer geometry wise?
    The stock setup at 140mm with a 29er/27+ fork works well for all sorts of riding. My GF will crush 20kms of road/bikepath and then shred the trails before heading home. The MC works fine on easier terrain as well as when things get rowdy.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    For those that received frames, do they come with the ZS44 headset and rear axle? I've read different things. If not, anyone have the P/N for the headset? I've got most of the big bits coming outside of the drivetrain, so should have it put together in a few weeks.
    Cane Creek 40.ZS44 and SRAM Maxel. Just pressed it in a couple days ago.

  137. #537
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    My MiddleChild has arrived!

    Pretty much stock with addition of Togs and Time pedals! I still need to convert the tires to tubeless but I must say I really like the Nobby Nics!

    Build went fine- brake hoses were long and having only mech discs up to this point I was a little nervous trimming the hose but it was pretty easy.

    Quick question- how should the bike feel while seated? I could immediately feel the steeper seat tube- to the point I felt odd- a little cramped and very upright. I moved the seat back on its rails and it feels better because it is sitting as far back as my XC bike with a slacker seat tube. I suspect I am I negating the steep seat tube angle by creating an effective slacker seat tube. Since this isnt an XC bike- is it supposed to put me in a more upright position while seated? Moving around the seat on dirt may be totally different than cruising the neighborhood... so any thoughts would be great.

    That being said, standing with the seat down I feel very, very comfortable in the neutral position- keeping my head over and centered to the handlebar and flexing my hips to steer feels great and actually pretty intuitive.

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-5727f6b1-8e69-4785-8659-605fe55b0744.jpg
    Love the orange!

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    My MiddleChild has arrived!

    Pretty much stock with addition of Togs and Time pedals! I still need to convert the tires to tubeless but I must say I really like the Nobby Nics!

    Build went fine- brake hoses were long and having only mech discs up to this point I was a little nervous trimming the hose but it was pretty easy.

    Quick question- how should the bike feel while seated? I could immediately feel the steeper seat tube- to the point I felt odd- a little cramped and very upright. I moved the seat back on its rails and it feels better because it is sitting as far back as my XC bike with a slacker seat tube. I suspect I am I negating the steep seat tube angle by creating an effective slacker seat tube. Since this isnt an XC bike- is it supposed to put me in a more upright position while seated? Moving around the seat on dirt may be totally different than cruising the neighborhood... so any thoughts would be great.

    That being said, standing with the seat down I feel very, very comfortable in the neutral position- keeping my head over and centered to the handlebar and flexing my hips to steer feels great and actually pretty intuitive.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Love the orange!
    I would say if you can climb the steepest hill the seat may not be too far back.
    After a few rides you should be able to be OK seating and not seating.
    I never push any seat back but that is because of my bone structure.
    You might have short legs and if your knees are OK i would definitely trust myself.

  139. #539
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    Gator,

    I use a 25mm setback post with the seat slammed all the way back. Frankly, I prefer a slack seat tube over a roadie angle. My frame with a 150mm travel Pike is measuring 70 which is the cat's meow! Typically, I will send a .dwg file to a frame builder to get that number based on the axle-crown of the intended fork. With a steeper ST angle, I cannot get into my power band. That has everything to do with where I am over the crankset, too far forward and I cannot spin, whatsoever.

    My build is very long arms and legs with minimal torso.
    Bike build is a large frame with 70mm stem, 800mm bar with 25mm rise, 9 backsweep, 6 up for a trialsy feel. Fork is 150mm Pike 46mm rake. Wheels are Mulefut 50SL with SRC hubs. Seat post, Ritchey Classic 25mm backset. Seat, Serfas Cosmos, leather cover. Fine Italian lambskin covered frame pad cause this bike deserves the best! Rogue grips. Straitline Amp stem, 70mm. Turbine DM crank. Surly SS cog, 13t.
    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-gopr0330-1.jpg
    Pithy little bastage!

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_1362.jpg
    One more lap before the lightning, thunder and cloudburst arrive!


    What I feel on my bike is a quality of reach so I don't have grips on the front axle, nor in my lap. On the seat cause I have a bike as opposed to a horse! The reach to the bars/grips is arms semi straight out to em, with a slight reach down. It permits a stretched out position or somewhat upright position based on where I need the weight on the tires. Seat height is rarely more than 1" above the stem height for a more playful ride without too much seat in the way going on. It is awesome on everything from a flow trail to a gully run, traditional trail features, etc.

    On tires, I run a pair of Nobby Nic Performance 27.5 x 3.0's on i45's since the tire and rim form a wonderful profile and can run at lower pressures without folding over the side of a rim when I get trialsy. I had a pair of the snakeskin version but they felt dead when I needed em to be springy for trialsin. It's akin to letting my Labrador retriever have all the tennis balls before a match at Wimpledon! I quickly gave those away. A costly experiment, indeed. I bought a pair through Alex and found two pair of Performance tires on eBay. Fell in love with em when I received the pair from Alex and had to have more!

    I think you just need some quality time to bond with the MiddleChild, honestly. The geometry is rather unique and if you haven't experienced slack bikes, might feel funky at first.
    Gotta say, the orange is looking very nice, indeed!
    Get out and get to know the bike and you'll be in love! It's a stellar ride.

    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    I would say if you can climb the steepest hill the seat may not be too far back.
    After a few rides you should be able to be OK seating and not seating.
    I never push any seat back but that is because of my bone structure.
    You might have short legs and if your knees are OK i would definitely trust myself.
    Perhaps you should try one on...

    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    I'm receiving my XL tomorrow and have most of the parts, will build as 27.5+. Will use Cane Creek Helm Air, but not sure what travel to set. It's going to be my everyday trail bike. What travel did you prefer geometry wise?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    150mm with my Pike. The stance of the bike is very nice and with slight sag rides like the OEM 140 with no sag in terms of ride height.
    Last edited by BansheeRune; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:23 AM.
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  140. #540
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    I should have the bike built in the next two weeks..

    Frame: Large Turquiose
    Fork: Fox 36 Float 29 FIT4 150mm 44mm Offset
    Headset: Cane Creek ZS-44
    Handle Bar: OneUp Carbon
    Stem: OneUp Alloy 35mm
    Grips: ESI Extra Chunky
    Front Wheel: Race Face ARC Offset 35 29", 32H, Hope Pro4
    Rear Wheel: Race Face ARC Offset 40 27.5", 32H, Hope Pro4
    Crank: Shimano SLX 175mm
    Chain Ring: AbsoluteBlack 32T Oval
    BB: Wheels MFG MTB Angular Contact
    Chain: SHIMANO XT
    Cassette: SHIMANO SLX 10-51T 12spd
    Rear Shifter: SHIMANO XT Trigger 12spd
    Rear Derailleur: SHIMANO SLX Long Cage 12spd
    Brakes: SHIMANO SLX 4 Pistons M7120
    Rotors: SHIMANO SLX 203/180mm
    Saddle: WTB Rocket
    Seat Post: OneUP V2.1 180mm
    Rear Axle: SRAM 180mm Rear Maxle Ultimate 12x148mm
    Tires: Front 29x2.6" Schwalbe Nobby Nic, Rear 27.5x3.0 Schwalbe Rocket Ron

    My only concern is that I may be a bit too slack, but we'll see how she rides before I go 27.5+ in the front or drop in a new air shaft.

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    Quick question- how should the bike feel while seated? I could immediately feel the steeper seat tube- to the point I felt odd- a little cramped and very upright. I moved the seat back on its rails and it feels better because it is sitting as far back as my XC bike with a slacker seat tube. I suspect I am I negating the steep seat tube angle by creating an effective slacker seat tube. Since this isnt an XC bike- is it supposed to put me in a more upright position while seated? Moving around the seat on dirt may be totally different than cruising the neighborhood... so any thoughts would be great.
    Some people love steep STAs. Some people don't. I'd keep riding the bike for a while to see if you get used to it. Assuming you don't you can get a dropper with a 1" setback head to move the saddle back and slack out the STA by a couple degrees. If you just push the saddle too far backwards on its rails you'll end up bending/breaking the rails.

    On a FS bike when you sit on it the bike sags backwards and the STA gets slacker. On a hardtail the fork sags so the bike rotates forward and the STA gets steeper.

    You can run the fork a bit firmer to reduce the amount the bike sags when you sit on it. That has the obvious downside, but it can help a bit as can running the LSC firmer if you have long pedally sections to deal with and then you can open the damper for any rowdy DHs where you'd be standing anyways.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  142. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by areeves08 View Post
    I should have the bike built in the next two weeks..

    Frame: Large Turquiose
    Fork: Fox 36 Float 29 FIT4 150mm 44mm Offset
    Headset: Cane Creek ZS-44
    Handle Bar: OneUp Carbon
    Stem: OneUp Alloy 35mm
    Grips: ESI Extra Chunky
    Front Wheel: Race Face ARC Offset 35 29", 32H, Hope Pro4
    Rear Wheel: Race Face ARC Offset 40 27.5", 32H, Hope Pro4
    Crank: Shimano SLX 175mm
    Chain Ring: AbsoluteBlack 32T Oval
    BB: Wheels MFG MTB Angular Contact
    Chain: SHIMANO XT
    Cassette: SHIMANO SLX 10-51T 12spd
    Rear Shifter: SHIMANO XT Trigger 12spd
    Rear Derailleur: SHIMANO SLX Long Cage 12spd
    Brakes: SHIMANO SLX 4 Pistons M7120
    Rotors: SHIMANO SLX 203/180mm
    Saddle: WTB Rocket
    Seat Post: OneUP V2.1 180mm
    Rear Axle: SRAM 180mm Rear Maxle Ultimate 12x148mm
    Tires: Front 29x2.6" Schwalbe Nobby Nic, Rear 27.5x3.0 Schwalbe Rocket Ron

    My only concern is that I may be a bit too slack, but we'll see how she rides before I go 27.5+ in the front or drop in a new air shaft.
    Frankly, it will improve with a tire rotation after the air shaft job! 2.6 rear, 3.0 front will perform far better. *70's BMX days were awesome!*
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  143. #543
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    Alright, here's my 2020. This is the first bike I've ever built from frame up. It didn't take nearly as long as I hoped. Most of the parts are take-offs that I collected from Pinkbike over the last year.



    My other bikes have been mostly SRAM, so I thought I'd go Shimano.

    Frame: Large
    Fork: Pike RC 140mm
    Cockpit: Random stuff, Brand-X 150mm dropper
    Cranks: Turbine 170mm, 28T ring
    Chain: SRAM PCX1
    Cassette: Sunrace 11-42
    Shifter: Shimano XT 11 speed
    Derailleur: Shimano SLX GS (mid cage)
    Brakes: Shimano Deore M6000
    Rotors: SRAM Centerline 180/160
    Wheels: DT Swiss 370, Duroc 35
    Tires: WTB Ranger 27.5x2.8.

    I thought the pedals (Nukeproof Neutron) would look cool, but they don't. Once LBS is open for browsing again, I'll find something else.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-rsdmc1.jpg  

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  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by stm32disco View Post
    Alright, here's my 2020.
    Looks great. Have fun. The MC is a sweet ride. I agree some black pedals would complete the look!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  145. #545
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    The best part about this bike is that it doesn't look like a gate in size XL

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  146. #546
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    I dig the purple pedals. Black on black on black is too played out for me.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by stm32disco View Post
    Alright, here's my 2020. This is the first bike I've ever built from frame up. It didn't take nearly as long as I hoped. Most of the parts are take-offs that I collected from Pinkbike over the last year.


    My other bikes have been mostly SRAM, so I thought I'd go Shimano.

    Frame: Large
    Fork: Pike RC 140mm
    Cockpit: Random stuff, Brand-X 150mm dropper
    Cranks: Turbine 170mm, 28T ring
    Chain: SRAM PCX1
    Cassette: Sunrace 11-42
    Shifter: Shimano XT 11 speed
    Derailleur: Shimano SLX GS (mid cage)
    Brakes: Shimano Deore M6000
    Rotors: SRAM Centerline 180/160
    Wheels: DT Swiss 370, Duroc 35
    Tires: WTB Ranger 27.5x2.8.

    I thought the pedals (Nukeproof Neutron) would look cool, but they don't. Once LBS is open for browsing again, I'll find something else.
    The only way I'll give up my purple defacto surgical shin removal devices I call pedals might involve firearms! Black is fine but completely black just never, nope! Lest someone else is footin the bills...

    Never mind that diatribe! Lets get down to the bike in question! Looks very nice. Now for some dirt time with ya on the new bike...
    This should bring some freakin good posts out if ya as the adventure starts in earnest. This bike will be quite an eye opener in the near, near future. Be healthy, safe and have fun with the new addition.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    The best part about this bike is that it doesn't look like a gate in size XL
    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    Bitchen size XL looks like ride central, between stm32disco's pic and yours, bitchen bikes abound! Enjoy the ride, boys, enjoy the ride...

    Here's one from today's last minute run this evening. Air condidtioned trail conditions since the sun went behind the mountain. Nice, cool, light breeze and cold canyon air feeling like being under an air conditioning vent. Climbing to the good part, never broke a sweat. Rippin down the descent with the flow happening on beautifully sculpted banked curves, lovely booters strategically placed to work wonders with rollers for a quality manual leading into another sweeping set of curves through shrubs and trees. Fvck, it doesn't get better than that!

    On the lower loop, there is a hell of a nice dropin that really needs a bank leading out, to the left to join the next section that is more of a rowdy route. That will be investigated tomorrow...
    A trailside game cam... I wanted to stop and drop a BA soooo badly, curses! I was on the trail with a high priest! I could just see the Roaring Fork Mountainbike Club personnel tossin a table when they see it! They would have blown a head gasket! Pompous bastages anyway...

    RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-img_1402.jpg
    The trailhead signage... Oh yeah, purple pedals just for the sake of it!

    What really pisses me off is beer drinkers and wineos are welcome but God forbid I smoke a hooter or break out some scotch, bastages!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  148. #548
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    Here is mine after the shake down ride- dusty baptism!

    First ride impressions:

    I LOVE this bike.

    As I stated before I needed to adjust the cockpit. I did this by starting from scratch. I put the saddle in the middle of the rails, adjusted the height and felt the reach. Riding clipped in, etc... I found my initial saddle height way too high. I also rotated the handlebar slightly forward and added a spacer- voila fit got so dialed-in.

    On the trail- it felt great- it felt at home. This is interesting because I have never ridden a modern enduro HT before. In addition, this shake-down ride is the last trail I figured this bike would shine on- has flow but relatively flat (smaller loops, close to home, etc...)

    My biggest surprised was LOVING the wheel size. Prior to this I ran 2.3 - 2.5's and thought I was going to be disappointed with such huge tires and would not like them on "easier" trails. Well my friends- I fretted for nothing. They accelerated well, soaked up the bumps and maaaaan the traction! I got slight po-go'ing as I need to drop the psi little bit which isn't a surprise but I don't think I am waaaaay off at this point. I need to get used to the weight bit- popping the rear wheel is a little harder- I think I need to pre-load more to get the spring out of the tire size.

    Regarding positioning- weighting the front wheel is something I need to be conscience of- it feels good but I need to make sure I am using my hips more in cornering. Doesn't feel awkward just being more mindful to do so.

    Overall- thrilled with this bike. Looking forward to getting a ride in tonight and dial-up the tech to see this thing really shine!!!!
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  149. #549
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    For those running a KS LEV dropper how are you liking it? Trying to decide on whether to buy the bike with the dropper or not. I've got a Bike Yoke Revive on my Ripmo and it's super smooth, but more expensive.

  150. #550
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    I like the KS Lev so far- I don't like the "pinch bolt" because you cut the cable flush to the bolt. Any cable slip could I foresee causing problems. I run the cable with little slack if I ever need a little extra cable. So far so good- but 2 rides in isn't much perspective. It is super, super smooth.

  151. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    For those running a KS LEV dropper how are you liking it? Trying to decide on whether to buy the bike with the dropper or not. I've got a Bike Yoke Revive on my Ripmo and it's super smooth, but more expensive.
    For the price, I would go with the KS dropper. I've owned a KS-Lev TI (on my previous bike) and now I have a Bike Yoke Revive on my Ripmo. We also have a Ks Lev Integra on my son's Middlechild. I had to buy a Wolftooth lever cause I don't like the stock one but the southpaw is good (wasn't included in the build in 2019). The Revive is the best dropper that I've tried but it's so expensive. So 350can$ for the KS including the Southpaw remote is a "good deal" for a minimal difference in fonction and feel. Of course, if money is no object, I would spend 200$ for the Revive...
    Last edited by LewisQC; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:37 AM.
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  152. #552
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    The orange looks awesome! How bright is it in person? I remember being wowed how bright my yellow frame was when I got it a year ago.

    Keep the pics and ride reports coming!
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  153. #553
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    Placed an order yesterday and it shipped today. Large Turquoise Steel, SLX 27.5+ with the dropper. So excited!!!!

  154. #554
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    Really nice color...
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    2015 Salsa Blackborow 1
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  155. #555
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    Orange is nice- not too bright in my opinion. Looks better after being ridden. New it looks really new! Excuses to keep riding! :-)

  156. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Placed an order yesterday and it shipped today. Large Turquoise Steel, SLX 27.5+ with the dropper. So excited!!!!
    NICE

    If you plan to build it yourself, I found the rear brake hose long for the medium (may be good for the large. I post this because I didn't have mineral oil and needed to get it as well as the funnel and yellow "blocks" to hold the hose when installing the new "plunger" (may not be the right word). The hose trim did not cause too much air to enter I got maybe 12-15 air bubbles. I never had hydraulics before and I found the job easy to do after you-tubing the procedure.

    Otherwise the build was straightforward. I fiddled with the Derailleur to get it solid but that is with any build. (I love the derailleur has a marking for setting the b screw- it isa little hard to see but there...)

    Fork comes with 2 additional volume spacers which is nice

    Chain is the correct length but I would have loved an extra quick link (how is that for being a PITA customer) to throw in the tool bag.

    Oh yeah! tighten the bolts on the sliders- they are slammed all the way forward but I didn't feel mine were "cinched" up tightly enough. Again NOT a big deal but worth mentioning I figure...

    Finally- converting the tires wheel to tubeless was easy-peasy.

    Have fun- great bike.

  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Placed an order yesterday and it shipped today. Large Turquoise Steel, SLX 27.5+ with the dropper. So excited!!!!
    See how easy it was?

    Gratz!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    NICE

    If you plan to build it yourself, I found the rear brake hose long for the medium (may be good for the large. I post this because I didn't have mineral oil and needed to get it as well as the funnel and yellow "blocks" to hold the hose when installing the new "plunger" (may not be the right word). The hose trim did not cause too much air to enter I got maybe 12-15 air bubbles. I never had hydraulics before and I found the job easy to do after you-tubing the procedure.

    Otherwise the build was straightforward. I fiddled with the Derailleur to get it solid but that is with any build. (I love the derailleur has a marking for setting the b screw- it isa little hard to see but there...)

    Fork comes with 2 additional volume spacers which is nice

    Chain is the correct length but I would have loved an extra quick link (how is that for being a PITA customer) to throw in the tool bag.

    Oh yeah! tighten the bolts on the sliders- they are slammed all the way forward but I didn't feel mine were "cinched" up tightly enough. Again NOT a big deal but worth mentioning I figure...

    Finally- converting the tires wheel to tubeless was easy-peasy.

    Have fun- great bike.
    I'll be building it myself. Is the derailleur already set up with chain run through it but just needs to be bolted on? Or will I need to set all the screws on the derailleur so that it shifts properly?

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    NICE

    If you plan to build it yourself, I found the rear brake hose long for the medium (may be good for the large. I post this because I didn't have mineral oil and needed to get it as well as the funnel and yellow "blocks" to hold the hose when installing the new "plunger" (may not be the right word). The hose trim did not cause too much air to enter I got maybe 12-15 air bubbles. I never had hydraulics before and I found the job easy to do after you-tubing the procedure.

    Otherwise the build was straightforward. I fiddled with the Derailleur to get it solid but that is with any build. (I love the derailleur has a marking for setting the b screw- it isa little hard to see but there...)

    Fork comes with 2 additional volume spacers which is nice

    Chain is the correct length but I would have loved an extra quick link (how is that for being a PITA customer) to throw in the tool bag.

    Oh yeah! tighten the bolts on the sliders- they are slammed all the way forward but I didn't feel mine were "cinched" up tightly enough. Again NOT a big deal but worth mentioning I figure...

    Finally- converting the tires wheel to tubeless was easy-peasy.

    Have fun- great bike.
    Slider bolt torque 17-20 nM (12.5-15 ft-lb) Over-tightening will be an expensive adventure!

    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    I'll be building it myself. Is the derailleur already set up with chain run through it but just needs to be bolted on? Or will I need to set all the screws on the derailleur so that it shifts properly?
    Completes are typically all built and a few parts removed for shipping. RD will be unbolted but mostly dialed in. Bar/stem will be removed and wrapped and tucked next to the frame in the box, well padded and tied. Just minor things to do and pump up the tires!
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  160. #560
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    Yeah I assumed the RD was not adjusted and I started fiddling with it from jump street!

    Agree over tightening those bolts would suck- I was sure not to crush it but I would say they were looser than I would have wanted...

  161. #561
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    Quick shot of riding Fort Yargo blue route yesterday. Was a much needed ride and I still love this thing. Just gotta sort out my gear indexing, a bit crunchy at the moment. Also needs a bath since there was some muddy parts which were so fun.


  162. #562
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    Middle Child ride with a 120mm fork and light wheels. I dig it. I ended up swapping the 35mm stem to a 50mm stem and it felt a lot more balanced, and the front end didn't want to push quite as much.


  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivera View Post
    Quick shot of riding Fort Yargo blue route yesterday. Was a much needed ride and I still love this thing. Just gotta sort out my gear indexing, a bit crunchy at the moment. Also needs a bath since there was some muddy parts which were so fun.


    Look it over closely. That should let you know whether to loosen or add tension to the cable. Poor downshift, more tension, poor upshift, loosen. 1/2 turn at a time makes it easier and keeps over-adjustment to a minimum.
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  164. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Look it over closely. That should let you know whether to loosen or add tension to the cable. Poor downshift, more tension, poor upshift, loosen. 1/2 turn at a time makes it easier and keeps over-adjustment to a minimum.
    This might sound funny but to be sure do you consider moving from 42 to 11 going down?

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    This might sound funny but to be sure do you consider moving from 42 to 11 going down?
    Starting from final drive is the beginning of adjustment. Fine tuning takes place as needed.
    Frankly, if the system is in detent, I can tweak from anywhere since I can look at the pulley alignment and gear. If they are not in alignment, I simply make them in alignment.
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  166. #566
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    Tips on setting the fork up and air pressure for tubeless tires? I weigh 180 geared up with 27.5 x 2.8 tires. By the way the build took a long time as the bike was in many pieces out of the box. No mechanic could do it in 30 minutes as described on the website. Had to convert to tubeless, install rotors, install fork, run the cables and chain, set up the derailleur and install the dropper. All of The cables are easily 6- 10 too long when installed on a size large.

  167. #567
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    The fork will have a recommended pressure chart on the fork leg.

    For tire psi, go by feel. I'd start with 18 f/r and adjust from there.

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Tips on setting the fork up and air pressure for tubeless tires? I weigh 180 geared up with 27.5 x 2.8 tires. By the way the build took a long time as the bike was in many pieces out of the box. No mechanic could do it in 30 minutes as described on the website. Had to convert to tubeless, install rotors, install fork, run the cables and chain, set up the derailleur and install the dropper. All of The cables are easily 6- 10 too long when installed on a size large.
    As Hardtail said.

    Fork setup. Follow the recommended pressure to begin. Open the rebound and compression settings all the way, start with compression setting and move to rebound from there.
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  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    As Hardtail said.

    Fork setup. Follow the recommended pressure to begin. Open the rebound and compression settings all the way, start with compression setting and move to rebound from there.
    Thanks for the tips guys. The base air pressure I've got as stated on the fork but I was curious if anyone has messed around adding tokens and what their experience has been. Also curious what settings others are running for low speed compression and rebound. The Ripmo thread has a whole section dedicated to tuning the Fox 36 Grip 2 which I understand is far more adjustable but just curious if others have already learned what works well for them on this fork/bike combo and is willing to share the details. Sounds like maybe that's on the case but I'll report back what I find and hopefully help someone else out down the road.

    Below are my initial impressions after assembling the bike and getting in one 8 mile ride with plenty of steep ups and downs much not much on rocks and roots:
    1. Not angry about it but just wasn't expecting to assemble so much. I've built plenty of bikes and had the know how and tools, but it took me a while. Plan for one hour minimum if you are an expert mechanic or double that if you know how to do things but often goober them up and have to do it twice. Triple that if you have to search YouTube on setting up an SLX drivetrain to get it shifting smoothly.
    2. The turquoise paint and color is amazing. It looks like it glows. Could not be happier with the paint.
    3. The tires were the easiest I've ever set up tubeless. You almost don't even need tire levers, but you still do.
    4. All the cables and hoses are too long so be prepared with spare barb/olive to shorten the brake hoses. You also may need mineral oil in case you spill some from the hose while cutting them.
    5. From the box, the chain is too short for the drivetrain to shift properly but it comes with extra links and a quick link. I had to add two links to prevent the chain from pulling the derailleur too far when in the 10 cog.
    6. I had to pull the right grip and switch the brake/shifter location around. I like the brake lever really far from the grip so I can just reach it with my index finger and that pushed the shifter to far from my thumb so switched them around.
    7. I started with 15f / 18r for air pressure and could go down some but my test trail didn't have any rocks and not many roots.
    8. Nothing much to say about the fork yet as I pumped it to 80 psi and don't remember what the settings were on LSC and rebound. It felt okay but I'll likely add tokens as it seemed to blow through the travel.
    9. I found a good video on YouTube on how to set up the drivetrain and followed it exactly. My last bike was SRAM 11 and and my Ripmo is GX 12 speed but so far the Shimano SLX felt great.**https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZneCSSMPzc10.
    10. Double check that the sliders match and are tight as they were not in the exact same position*but that's an easy fix.
    11. I prefer Ergon grips but the North Shore grips felt pretty good and I don't plan to change them out.
    12. The tires grip really really well and helped soften the hardtail sting. I was expecting harshness but was pleasantly surprised at how compliant the bike was.
    13. SLX 4 pots are great. I've got the XT on my Ripmo*and the SLX are just as good.
    14. The KS dropper is super smooth but the 150 mm is not enough in my opinion for someone who is 5'11" on a size large. A 175 would be better but I was worried I couldn't insert it far enough before it won't go further. Alex said he's got a 32" inseam and can just barely run the 175 mm but I didn't want to chance it.
    15. The geo feels great but I wouldn't complain if it was 1 degree slacker. I never thought I would want a 64 up front on a hardtail but after riding the Rimpo the RSD MC felt steep! I know the Ripmo slackens due to the FS and the MC steepens when sagged. Now I know why Hardtail Party always states on his channel that some of the bikes he reviews just feel twitchy and when they are steeper than 65.
    16. First ride was on OneUp composite platforms but I think I'll be riding clipped in from now on to match the Ripmo. I love the idea of flats and I can get around on them fine but prefer XT trail pedals.
    17. I'm looking forward to many many more fun rides on the MC. It's so playful and just great to look at.
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  170. #570
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    Making progress on the build, just waiting on a few more items to get it finished up. I agree, the Turquoise looks great.

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  171. #571
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    Great post- let me add on to the following as well

    Below are my initial impressions after assembling the bike and getting in one 8 mile ride with plenty of steep ups and downs much not much on rocks and roots:
    1. Not angry about it but just wasn't expecting to assemble so much. I've built plenty of bikes and had the know how and tools, but it took me a while. Plan for one hour minimum if you are an expert mechanic or double that if you know how to do things but often goober them up and have to do it twice. Triple that if you have to search YouTube on setting up an SLX drivetrain to get it shifting smoothly.

    Agree- I enjoyed the process but I agree those will be intimidated if not used to building up bikes.


    2. The turquoise paint and color is amazing. It looks like it glows. Could not be happier with the paint.

    Sorry my Orange MC is cooler than yours... ;-)


    3. The tires were the easiest I've ever set up tubeless. You almost don't even need tire levers, but you still do.

    Couldn't agree more

    4. All the cables and hoses are too long so be prepared with spare barb/olive to shorten the brake hoses. You also may need mineral oil in case you spill some from the hose while cutting them.

    Agree- I needed a barb and olive and oil. The process was easier than I thought. My take away is be prepared.

    5. From the box, the chain is too short for the drivetrain to shift properly but it comes with extra links and a quick link. I had to add two links to prevent the chain from pulling the derailleur too far when in the 10 cog.

    Not my experience. chain was the correct link. At least I assumed so I will need to reference the extension of the rear Der at full extension.


    10. Double check that the sliders match and are tight as they were not in the exact same position*but that's an easy fix.

    Mine was little loose and I tightened them down- don't kill it- if they strip that would suuuuuck! As BansheeRune says- expensive mistake!

    11. I prefer Ergon grips but the North Shore grips felt pretty good and I don't plan to change them out.
    Agree I like them!

    12. The tires grip really really well and helped soften the hardtail sting. I was expecting harshness but was pleasantly surprised at how compliant the bike was.
    AGREE! I thought the tires were gonna be heavy and not responsive. They have been great! I am bummed as I think Nobby Nic's in 2.8 are discontinued... :-(


    I am finding pedal strikes- why? The bike CHARGES. My lines are now choppier and I am needing to learning how to time out my pedal rotations

  172. #572
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    Learning to adjust/tune suspension is one of the most important things you can learn. I'd research as much as you can on the topic. My friends and I run completely different suspension setups, despite being the same weight and riding the same trails. Learning what each circuit does can help a lot. Here's a quick video I made to help people understand the basics:



    I'll be creating a dedicated course on how to adjust and dial in your suspension, but that's a ways out. Fox has a great "Dialed" series on YouTube with some great info too. When you understand what volume spacers do, when to change high speed vs low speed compression, etc., you'll better know how to make adjustments to suit your riding.

  173. #573
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    I've attended a few clinics, where they have the participants set their suspension dampers in the middle of their range, and ride up and down a curb a few times.

    Then they have everyone open their rebound up all the way fast. Then they repeat the loop, paying attention to what feels different.

    Then they go back and close their rebound all the way, and re-ride their loop, making notes about what feels different.

    Then they repeat it with compression.

    The participants really get a feel for what each setting does. That, in conjunction with my video above, will help you learn what's going on in there and pick a feel that feels right for you.

    I recommend reading up about suspension packing as well, which will help you determine if your rebound is too slow. I like a fast rebound because I come from a BMX background, but a lot of people prefer a slower rebound that's more in control on the big hits.

    Body position, riding style, speed, and terrain will all dictate a different suspension setup, so giving you my settings may actually make things worse for you, not better. Knowledge is key here, and with a bit of knowledge about how your suspension works, how it feels at both ends of the spectrum, and how to get it to feel how you like will be far better than a list of everyone's settings. Not to mention, half the people who contribute suspension settings to threads probably don't know what they're doing, so their input is less than helpful.

  174. #574
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    @mblittle, which fork offset is on your fork? You might be feeling the fork offset rather than the head angle. I run a 42mm offset on my pike on my MC. I prefer the short offset fork. It helps the front end at speed in straight lines. It requires more body english to turn, but I like that anyway.

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtail party View Post
    @mblittle, which fork offset is on your fork? You might be feeling the fork offset rather than the head angle. I run a 42mm offset on my pike on my MC. I prefer the short offset fork. It helps the front end at speed in straight lines. It requires more body english to turn, but I like that anyway.
    51mm. It's the stock SLX 27.5+ build straight from RSD with the Pike Select RC fork. I probably didn't state my thoughts very clear and it very well may be the offset. I was just making a direct comparison to the Ripmo, which really doesn't make sense. When asking others about their setups I was referring to anyone with the stock build straight from RSD, but you are correct that everyone is different and sometimes other peoples opinions of suspension setup just make things worse. I appreciate the input though.

  176. #576
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    Until you get on a pure trials bike, twitchy doesn't apply.

    Try a steep head angle, caster angle along with a +100mm BB. They are a challenge and a handful.

    mblittle, the Pike is a very nice fork with good performance. Keeping the rebound fast is to prevent packing. Packing is when the fork stays mid travel since it doesn't have time to rebound before the next hit. Think washboard. Getting the compression dialed doesn't take long but make only one change at a time and test that change. After doing the compression, rebound can be tweaked. Personally, I like it fast so I can rail without feeling like my fork is rigid at times.

    As for the build of my MC... That was 45 minutes including a brake bleed. Tubeless is great when you don't swap tires for the terrain and activity on the day's menu. I swap between G-One 2.8's, Rocket Ron 3.0's and Nobby Nic 3.0's frequently and don't have time for the tubeless thing due to the time going into it. Q-Tubes SL 26 x 2.7's are a perfect fit and only add a few milligrams, so no weight saving without spending a ton on plastico wheels.
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  177. #577
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    Just a quick post for anyone whose Raceface BB is creaking. Ours was not shot yet, and we had dismantled and reassembled the whole cinch assembly only to still have some intermittent creaking. We needed to buy a bottom bracket tool, so in the interest of keeping things simple, my son agreed to purchase the Cane Creek Hellbender BB, as it has the Raceface 12 notch interface. I payed for the Wolftooth BB tool, and all went well with the install. Time will tell regarding durability, but we are cautiously optimistic.
    It also coordinates with his pedals, which was unplanned.

    Since I have not posted in a while, I will add that the still twelve year old boy is now almost 58 tall and able to legitimately manual the size medium Middlechild (29er with chain stays @ 430). So, for those parents on the fence, consider buying up a size.
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  178. #578
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    Updates on my impressions after a weekend of riding singletrack (plenty of chunky roots, no rocks and 1100' of vert over 13 miles to give you an idea of terrain.)
    1. ran 13 psi front and 15 psi rear - felt great and felt no tire squirm. May consider going lower.
    2. realized i actually don't like the stock grips because I ride with my hands all the way to the outside of the bar therefore I'm gripping the lock ring which has no cushion/vibration dampening. I swapped Ergon GE1 from my Ripmo and things felt better, and more familiar of course.
    3. loving the 27.5+ set up and can't imagine going to 29" on this bike, given that my other bike is a 29". Can't say how I'd feel if this was my only bike. I can def feel the smaller wheel size cornering easier and love the grip from the wider tires.
    4. Had to read the Shimano manual to get the b tension right as there is no guide printed on the SLX mech. The shifting was very sensitive to the b tension being right and would skip a tooth now and then before I adjusted the b tension.
    5. I love the feel of standing and mashing on the pedals out of corners and feeling the bike just jump forward with acceleration b/c there is no rear suspension to soak up the forces.
    6. I was not able to clean multiple root covered climbs that I can easily clean on the Ripmo due to loss of traction on the rear wheel when it bounces off of roots. I know I need to learn how to move the bike and my body on a hardtail but just pointing out that with a FS you can be lazier and sit and spin right up technical climbs with ease. I also noticed the front wanted to wheelie up the steep climbs and that never happens on the Ripmo. 74 degree seat tube angle vs 77 plus I've had time to get adjusted to the Ripmo. I only attempted each climb once and could have cleaned them with practice.
    7. short chain stays do not automatically make you a wheelie / manual master. I'm decent at wheelies on the Ripmo b/c I've learned over time how to feel them out but everything is different on the MC. Yeah it's easier to get the front up but it's like relearning in my opinion.
    8. no complaints about the wheel set given the price of the total build but the lack of instant engagement from the rear hub is quite noticeable when compared to the I9 hydra hubs on the Ripmo. I can see rebuilding the rear wheel with a high end hub down the road at some point.
    9. love the bike and have zero regrets about the purchase. I cross shopped the MC against the Chromag Rootdown and multiple bikes from Coptic, NS, NukeProof and Commencal.

  179. #579
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    mblittle,

    There is much to learn with the MiddleChild.
    Climbing and position over the bike. Getting used to sliding forward on the seat where other bikes may not require it. My MC measures 70 STA which places my position where I need to work from, 77 is reason to cancel an order!
    Since my bike is a one speed automatic, I can relate to stand and mash however, I try to stay in my powerband so I can spend as much of an ascent sittin anna spinnin'.
    With some quality time, you and the MC will clean everything you are cleaning with the Ripmo. Just learning the bike and where the performance lives as well as how to access it since it is unique unto itself.

    On the topic of Chromag... Their price would be more than I would spend on a custom steel frame built to the blueprint I supply. The MC is near as I will get from production to my choices in geometry.

    Chainstay length and manuals/wheelies... A whole topic on its own! It took some time to learn the feel and balance point since I am used to a 384mm stay on my stock trials bike. I spend some time with my doggie gurl and practice while she gets to run and play. A chickit and tennis ball make her run her ass off while I get in a manny or wheelie! Good times!

    Lotsa points in your post sound very familiar. Glad you're lovin the new bike and having a great time riding.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  180. #580
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    Question for those who bought the orange frame. How bright is it? Is it a darker color? I am hoping for a traffic cone orange color. Otherwise I will wait for more black frames to come in.

  181. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by acrmedic View Post
    Question for those who bought the orange frame. How bright is it? Is it a darker color? I am hoping for a traffic cone orange color. Otherwise I will wait for more black frames to come in.
    It's quite bright, but not neon orange

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  182. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by acrmedic View Post
    Question for those who bought the orange frame. How bright is it? Is it a darker color? I am hoping for a traffic cone orange color. Otherwise I will wait for more black frames to come in.
    I think "traffic cone" orange is a good way to describe it. I don't think it is neon and I love how the frame looks with dust, dirt and mud. If I had to do it again I would buy the orange without a doubt.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD MIddleChild - CrMo-e62875bd-1453-4055-9376-7f1de1a9528c.jpg  

    Last edited by NJ Gator; 1 Day Ago at 11:40 AM.

  183. #583
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    To anyone interested, I'm about to part out my ridden once Middle Child XL pictured above. Can sell as a complete build as well

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  184. #584
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    I am curious what others think- I think the build is solid (kudo's to Alex). The wheels always seem to be the target as the weakest link in the reviews. I feel the wheels are good although I think the engagement is a little slow on the driveway but on trail feels pretty solid. I also can track stand like a madman (my only real real true standout) and I wonder if that helps me compensate. I ask because I always like to have a second wheel set on hand- for a few reasons- I like having an option to swap when wheel repairs need to be done and the wait-time at the shop can be long and if I want to run two different tires and I can swap quick and easy. Would it be crazy to buy another set of Duroc's? Or take the opportunity to buy something with a bit more bling?

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ Gator View Post
    I am curious what others think- I think the build is solid (kudo's to Alex). The wheels always seem to be the target as the weakest link in the reviews. I feel the wheels are good although I think the engagement is a little slow on the driveway but on trail feels pretty solid. I also can track stand like a madman (my only real real true standout) and I wonder if that helps me compensate. I ask because I always like to have a second wheel set on hand- for a few reasons- I like having an option to swap when wheel repairs need to be done and the wait-time at the shop can be long and if I want to run two different tires and I can swap quick and easy. Would it be crazy to buy another set of Duroc's? Or take the opportunity to buy something with a bit more bling?
    I bought 29" Bontrager Line 30 Comp wheelset for my Middlechild. My other set is RF AR40 with 2.8s. Upgraded to 6 pawls and 108POE for additional $30. So far happy with how it turned out for a $300 wheelset.
    2018 RSD Middlechild

  186. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by acrmedic View Post
    Question for those who bought the orange frame. How bright is it? Is it a darker color? I am hoping for a traffic cone orange color. Otherwise I will wait for more black frames to come in.
    The colors offered by RSD are usually brighter in person than in web pix. If it turns out to be the same orange used on the Mayor, it will be a bright orange.
    My yellow "Tennis Ball Yellow" nearly detached my retinas when I opened the box but in pix was not quite that bright.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

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