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  1. #1
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    Yeti sb66 problems?

    Just wondering if anybody's had any problems so far with the sb66?

    I met a guy who says you can't run anything 2.35 tire size or larger on the rear because it'll hit the seat tube on compression? He showed me how the rear tire wore off all the paint on the seat tube.

    Anybody had this issue or any other?....before I pull the gun and get one?

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    there were "reported" issues and even a thread about rear tire rubbing the seat tube but the poster and the "others" having a similar experience ignored requests for photos. We did see however photos showing a clear clearence and it was checked also with my Ardent 2.25 leaving 8mm of space at full travel.
    There was another report about a failing switch that did not attach any images.........
    I can report that the frame tubes were not designed to shed mud and now my bike is sprinkled with some dry mud.
    Seriously, there may be issues especially on the first year of production, but as far as I know nothing significant as of now. If there will be issues, Yeti will take care of us.
    Cheers

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    Cool. I'm probably gonna get the bike anyway. Does anybody know if there are any changes for the 2012 model?

    Well there may be no photos out there but I can guarantee that i've seen it. The paint was totally gone on the seat tube down to the metal where the tire rubbed. That was the only thing I was concerned about on whether it was a big problem. I run 2.35 tires and I'd hate it if tire rubbed caused me to be thrown off of the bike on full compression causing rear wheel to lock.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom34 View Post
    Cool. I'm probably gonna get the bike anyway. Does anybody know if there are any changes for the 2012 model?

    Well there may be no photos out there but I can guarantee that i've seen it. The paint was totally gone on the seat tube down to the metal where the tire rubbed. That was the only thing I was concerned about on whether it was a big problem. I run 2.35 tires and I'd hate it if tire rubbed caused me to be thrown off of the bike on full compression causing rear wheel to lock.
    Maybe for very high profile tire?. Or/and maybe the rim can make some difference.
    I was aware of this "issue" when I pulled the trigger and asked my LBS to check.
    As said, on a medium frame with 2.25 Ardents and XT trail (21mm rim) wheels, I had 8mm of clearence.

  5. #5
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    Between 2011 and 2012 they are offering just different builds. Seems like the frames are the same but just different builds on offer.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom34 View Post
    Does anybody know if there are any changes for the 2012 model?
    The SB66 is technically a 2012 model, so no changes to the frame. There are, as mentioned, some changes to the build kits. No problems with mine. I've had it for a couple of months now and been able to ride it a ton. I'm running a 2.2 in the back and it has loads of clearance. The tricky thing about tires is the variation in size from brand to brand -some brands 2.35 will be as big as another brands 2.5, so making a general statement regarding what tire size will fit usually isn't accurate.

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    Myself and others have reported issues with seat tube burs.

    SB66 Seat-tube burs

    Also, I'm running 142 in the rear, but when it was 135 I had some issues taking the wheel on and off. The clearance on the derailleur side was too tight.

    Early models shipped with bad bearings and I believe yeti has replaced them all.


    Regarding the rubbing; I'm running a 2.35 ust nevegal on the back with no rubbing issues.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutchct View Post
    Myself and others have reported issues with seat tube burs.

    SB66 Seat-tube burs

    Also, I'm running 142 in the rear, but when it was 135 I had some issues taking the wheel on and off. The clearance on the derailleur side was too tight.

    Early models shipped with bad bearings and I believe yeti has replaced them all.


    Regarding the rubbing; I'm running a 2.35 ust nevegal on the back with no rubbing issues.
    My 575 rear wheel was really tight as well with the 135mm chips. Needed some filing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutchct View Post
    Regarding the rubbing; I'm running a 2.35 ust nevegal on the back with no rubbing issues.
    Take note here: a 2.35 Nevegal is huge, as big as other tire manufacturers 2.5's. If this tire doesn't cause a problem then there is absolutely no reason for complaining about clearance.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom34 View Post
    Just wondering if anybody's had any problems so far with the sb66?

    I met a guy who says you can't run anything 2.35 tire size or larger on the rear because it'll hit the seat tube on compression? He showed me how the rear tire wore off all the paint on the seat tube.

    Anybody had this issue or any other?....before I pull the gun and get one?

    Cheers
    The only confirmed issue on the SB by Yeti and some others that I am aware of is that 300 frames made it out of production in the past year with mis-specced bearings (single row instead of dual row bearings). Yeti and dealers are fully aware of this and will replace bearings with the proper ones as needed, no questions asked. I had mine replaced before buying from LBS just in case, since my previous bike had numerous of premature pivot issues and didn't want to have to worry about anything with the new frame.

    I have been hammering the SB for two months straight now with about 4 rides/wk on anything from run of the mill XC/trail riding to some DH/lite FR with not any problems whatsoever running 30% sag. Thought I had some seat tube rub at first, since I noticed some scuffing initially. Put a piece of electrical tape over it and haven't notice any scuffing since. I have never noticed any harsh bottom-out or tire rub despite using all of my travel on any given ride, so I don't sweat it.

    An absolutely fantastic bike and by far the best trail/AM bike I have owned to date You shouldn't be dissappointed at all and can purchase with confidence cause Yeti is a pretty sweet company.
    Ride On!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    The only confirmed issue on the SB by Yeti and some others that I am aware of is that 300 frames made it out of production in the past year with mis-specced bearings (single row instead of dual row bearings). Yeti and dealers are fully aware of this and will replace bearings with the proper ones as needed, no questions asked. I had mine replaced before buying from LBS just in case, since my previous bike had numerous of premature pivot issues and didn't want to have to worry about anything with the new frame.

    I have been hammering the SB for two months straight now with about 4 rides/wk on anything from run of the mill XC/trail riding to some DH/lite FR with not any problems whatsoever running 30% sag. Thought I had some seat tube rub at first, since I noticed some scuffing initially. Put a piece of electrical tape over it and haven't notice any scuffing since. I have never noticed any harsh bottom-out or tire rub despite using all of my travel on any given ride, so I don't sweat it.

    An absolutely fantastic bike and by far the best trail/AM bike I have owned to date You shouldn't be dissappointed at all and can purchase with confidence cause Yeti is a pretty sweet company.
    Do you know the part numbers of this batch?. Can you get them from Yeti?.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Do you know the part numbers of this batch?. Can you get them from Yeti?.
    Don't know, I'm sorry. I just had a guy at LBS check to see what was in there before I bought the frame and he confirmed the mis-specced single row bearings, so they got the proper dual row ones for me and installed no questions asked. I don't how many people in total had problems with the single rows falling apart. I know "Penny" was one as confirmed with pics. I guess a bit of frames rolling around with the single rows out there with no probs to date. I just wanted the added security since I ride year-round, been on bushings for past 6yrs, hard on bikes and live in rain country (NW Oregon) that can wreak havoc on pivot/bearings, etc. I would just run what you got until they wear, then replace as needed. If the single rows are in there, then get the "right" ones from Yeti.
    Ride On!

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    SB-66 Bearings

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Do you know the part numbers of this batch?. Can you get them from Yeti?.
    I have an XL SB-66 that needed the bearing fix. Yeti provided a one-page .pdf describing the bearing ID and replacement to a double-row version to its dealers, who forwarded to me. These are standard bearings and I was able to find the spec. sheets easily -- the correct bearing has a much higher static load rating so you really should make sure it is right.

    About a week so after receiving my frame, I took apart the Switch assembly (very nice and serviceable design), confirmed the bad bearing number, 63802VRS, requested replacement, 3802VRD, from my Internet "LBS," and installed. After about 400 miles of eastern USA single-track so far (I am 6'3" and about 225# loaded), my SB-66 continues to be quiet, smooth, climbs like crazy, and for my size is the most comfortable bike I ever rode.

    There are absolutely no rubbing of tires or cable housings, creaks, squeaks or even rock chips in the paint. I am certain that this is the last mountain bike frame I will own...

    No worries -- buy the bike, check your bearing numbers and replace if needed, and don't look back!

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Don't know, I'm sorry. I just had a guy at LBS check to see what was in there before I bought the frame and he confirmed the mis-specced single row bearings, so they got the proper dual row ones for me and installed no questions asked. I don't how many people in total had problems with the single rows falling apart. I know "Penny" was one as confirmed with pics. I guess a bit of frames rolling around with the single rows out there with no probs to date. I just wanted the added security since I ride year-round, been on bushings for past 6yrs, hard on bikes and live in rain country (NW Oregon) that can wreak havoc on pivot/bearings, etc. I would just run what you got until they wear, then replace as needed. If the single rows are in there, then get the "right" ones from Yeti.
    My single rows seized, and most others were notchy. Getting new ones sent my way now...
    The swingarm while on bike gave me no indication of bad bearinngs as it cycled thru its travel ok and showed no lateral movement. Not until disassembly did I find issues.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    I have an XL SB-66 that needed the bearing fix. Yeti provided a one-page .pdf describing the bearing ID and replacement to a double-row version to its dealers, who forwarded to me. These are standard bearings and I was able to find the spec. sheets easily -- the correct bearing has a much higher static load rating so you really should make sure it is right.

    About a week so after receiving my frame, I took apart the Switch assembly (very nice and serviceable design), confirmed the bad bearing number, 63802VRS, requested replacement, 3802VRD, from my Internet "LBS," and installed. After about 400 miles of eastern USA single-track so far (I am 6'3" and about 225# loaded), my SB-66 continues to be quiet, smooth, climbs like crazy, and for my size is the most comfortable bike I ever rode.

    There are absolutely no rubbing of tires or cable housings, creaks, squeaks or even rock chips in the paint. I am certain that this is the last mountain bike frame I will own...

    No worries -- buy the bike, check your bearing numbers and replace if needed, and don't look back!

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN
    Hey kstovesand, thanks for sharing the bearing part numbers. I will be taking apart mine to check it out. Been doing enduro riding on mine for 3 months and the pivots have started to develop squeeky sounds.

  16. #16
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    I have had my rear tire hit my seat tube and my LBS talked to yeti about it. They said they have had a few reports of it happening. Something to do with tolerances at the extremes. They were trying to figure out the problem.

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    Hey guys,
    First time, just saying hi. Also, I'm planning on picking up the SB66 sometime in the next few months..anyone know if they offer an industry discount and if so, how much?

    Thanks.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdubb View Post
    I have had my rear tire hit my seat tube and my LBS talked to yeti about it. They said they have had a few reports of it happening. Something to do with tolerances at the extremes. They were trying to figure out the problem.
    I personally think this is caused by using a shock with no HSC (high speed compression) and/or bottom out control. I actually like the new RP23 on this bike, but think one has to use the Fox spacer reducers at the very least if doing any hits (especially squared edged or hit anything to flat at all). So far all is good with mine, but noticed some wiggle in the shock eyelet bushing already at only two months and I sometimes blast through all the travel ("O" ring off of shock) on hits at times.
    Ride On!

  19. #19
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    Just cracked my yeti sb 66 in four places!!

    Hi guys,
    Interesting to know how many many more people are in my situation??
    I bought a brand new SB-66 3 weeks ago and have cracked it in four places, The thing must be made of cheese!! One big crack around a weld on the swing arm, and three cracks on the rocker, located where the shock would mount on and also in the bearing seat.
    I have sent the bike back to the shop and am now waiting to hear what yeti have to say.

    Its also worth me say that a friend of mine has also cracked his swing arm twice, having it replaced both times and also his rocker once as well. When he sent his back the first time he was told it wasnt an issue, apparently only four in the country had ever been sent back. I find that hard to believe as mine cracked within three weeks of owning it.

    I must also say that other than the fact that i broke the bike so easily, It was an amazing machine to ride, best bike i've ever ridden but I just cant believe It broke so easily!!

    If anyone else has had any problems like this it would be cool to hear what yeti had to say? I have a feeling they may blame it on a faulty batch but I wont believe it lol..

  20. #20
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    jgusta: I had rear shock-eye bushing wear to "wiggle" in less than two weeks on my '95, second one lasted three weeks, I changed to the 5-piece pin+sleeve Fox hardware (vs 2-piece) and have been happy for more than a month. The new polymer-based bushing-pin-etc mounting hardware may or may not be longer lasting that that but I don't have any to try. No issues from the front shock-eye bushing.

  21. #21
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    @CM59: Link to detailed pictures or it didn't happen. Especially on your first post dude.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclemary1959 View Post
    Hi guys,
    Interesting to know how many many more people are in my situation??
    I bought a brand new SB-66 3 weeks ago and have cracked it in four places, The thing must be made of cheese!! One big crack around a weld on the swing arm, and three cracks on the rocker, located where the shock would mount on and also in the bearing seat.
    I have sent the bike back to the shop and am now waiting to hear what yeti have to say.

    Its also worth me say that a friend of mine has also cracked his swing arm twice, having it replaced both times and also his rocker once as well. When he sent his back the first time he was told it wasnt an issue, apparently only four in the country had ever been sent back. I find that hard to believe as mine cracked within three weeks of owning it.

    I must also say that other than the fact that i broke the bike so easily, It was an amazing machine to ride, best bike i've ever ridden but I just cant believe It broke so easily!!

    If anyone else has had any problems like this it would be cool to hear what yeti had to say? I have a feeling they may blame it on a faulty batch but I wont believe it lol..
    Same issues here with busted chainstay within 6 months of buying frame and then broken shock/frame upper link as stated above, 1.5 months later that just happend over a week ago. Both times Yeti got replacement parts to me within a week's time. It was just very untimely when and where I had the breaks (one while pre-riding an Enduro course the day before an out of town Enduro race (would of been my first Enduro) and other while on mtb singletrack vacation on top of hill just yards into the descent (Mt. bike OR). Both cases, Yeti and LBS made it sound like I was the only dude that this has occured to, which left me a little puzzled, cause I knew of at least one other guy in which this happened as well.

    The SB66 is a sweet trail/AM riding machine and Yeti took care of me. All that should matter in the end, but feel like Yeti are trying to downplay the occurance like previous owned bike co. did (Banshee) in saying that only less than 0.1% of cases have reported with frame/pivot failures and that just wasn't the case as evident on the Banshee board with Rune/Spitfire pivot/frame failures/issues and experiences I had with two of those frames as well. I understand this can tarnish sales/reputation of said frame/company, but can definitely be used to fix the problem as other companies such as RockShox often do with their new products (ei; 2-step, Reverbs) by openly disclosing the issues and do whatever possible to get the customer the updated/fixed part and remedy the issue. To me that is what makes them an awesome company, unlike cough, cough (Fox). Tranparency goes a long ways, just sayin'.
    Ride On!

  23. #23
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    I'm on my 3rd swingarm if that makes a difference. The first 2 failed in the same exact spot. I will say that Yeti has been very helpful in all each case. However that doesn't mean that I won't be concerned about it each time I ride the bike. Hopefully the third time is a charm.

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    I've had to replace 2 rear shock bushings. I've got a bag full so its not a massive issue
    but for many it will be. My old Spec Enduro used to eat bushings also but nowhere
    near this rate (hence my bag of bushings.. identical btw). My 575 08 has never developed play ever - and i've never had to repace them - same bushings also.

    Only other issue is it does require significant maintenace and you'll need a torque wrench
    if your sensible.

    I think the paint quality is poor as its very very soft - i suspect an issue at the cure stage?
    Final build was also poor - when you get your bike take it to bits and check everything
    lightly grease the pivot pins (they are probaly are bone dry - mine were) and torque up the
    bolts properly... none of mine were anywhere near the correct torque out of the box - both well
    under and scary torque levels over. Kind of hypocritical when bike manufactures bang on about the
    imporance of using a torque wrench.... still when you buy a frame you should really be doing
    the torques yourself and check periodically anyway.

    Still its a great bike to ride and has no real show stoppers if you dont mind replacing bushings
    periodically or upgrading them. Also if you ride rough/rocky terrain id invest in some copter tape
    yet I'd shudder at the thought of a Carbon SB66 or any carbon bike for that matter on my local routes.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I've had to replace 2 rear shock bushings. I've got a bag full so its not a massive issue
    Still using the 2-piece alu hardware?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post

    Only other issue is it does require significant maintenace and you'll need a torque wrench
    if your sensible.


    Final build was also poor - when you get your bike take it to bits and check everything
    lightly grease the pivot pins (they are probaly are bone dry - mine were) and torque up the
    bolts properly... none of mine were anywhere near the correct torque out of the box - both well
    under and scary torque levels over. Kind of hypocritical when bike manufactures bang on about the
    imporance of using a torque wrench.... still when you buy a frame you should really be doing
    the torques yourself and check periodically anyway.

    Still its a great bike to ride and has no real show stoppers if you dont mind replacing bushings
    periodically or upgrading them. Also if you ride rough/rocky terrain id invest in some copter tape
    yet I'd shudder at the thought of a Carbon SB66 or any carbon bike for that matter on my local routes.

    Watch this. No torque wrench in sight. Craziness...

    Yeti Cycles / Home
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    jgusta: I had rear shock-eye bushing wear to "wiggle" in less than two weeks on my '95, second one lasted three weeks, I changed to the 5-piece pin+sleeve Fox hardware (vs 2-piece) and have been happy for more than a month. The new polymer-based bushing-pin-etc mounting hardware may or may not be longer lasting that that but I don't have any to try. No issues from the front shock-eye bushing.
    Wonder why some folks are having issues with the busing and others aren't- more specifically, what is different. I have 560 hard, Austin trail miles on my XL SB-95, and no slop in the shock bushing. I'm 220+ ready to ride, and I ride the crap outta the bike.

    Anyone got any thoughts? Pressure differences causing more stress? More big drops? (I don't do too many)
    Yeti SB-95a Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Same issues here with busted chainstay within 6 months of buying frame and then broken shock/frame upper link as stated above, 1.5 months later that just happend over a week ago. Both times Yeti got replacement parts to me within a week's time. It was just very untimely when and where I had the breaks (one while pre-riding an Enduro course the day before an out of town Enduro race (would of been my first Enduro) and other while on mtb singletrack vacation on top of hill just yards into the descent (Mt. bike OR). Both cases, Yeti and LBS made it sound like I was the only dude that this has occured to, which left me a little puzzled, cause I knew of at least one other guy in which this happened as well.
    Same here as well. Broke the chainstay (picked up after seeing a photo on here), and two weeks later broke the upper link (i have photos of this, but can't load due to number of posts).

    Both times the Yeti got me back up and running in just over a week.

    As for tyre rub, I did have some issues running a 2.25 noby nic on really harsh landings. Swapped to a slightly smaller tyre and haven't had any issues since. I don't think this is a big issue, and I have put a frame protector back there so no damage to the paint.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    ...I have 560 hard, Austin trail miles on my XL SB-95, and no slop in the shock bushing...
    I know your terrain, and I know mine, and the biggest punishment difference I can think of (to the bike) is two fold...

    1. believe it or not, the trails here are generally rougher than the Austin trails (seriously); my back-yard trail is a 5 mile stretch that could be characterized as a shale-infested version of a certain serpentine trail laid over top City Park. There's less rough, but essentially no buff trail at all in my near vicinity

    2. the places I hit on the weekend feature 1-3 mile descents, often with rock sections that are a bit more rounded but best ermed low-grade east-coast DH 'gnar'

    So, what I think is that it's the frequency of hits.

    You could also ride "lighter" than I - that's easy to believe - too.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Watch this. No torque wrench in sight. Craziness...

    Yeti Cycles / Home
    His fingers are finely calibrated!

    Oni

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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    jgusta: I had rear shock-eye bushing wear to "wiggle" in less than two weeks on my '95, second one lasted three weeks, I changed to the 5-piece pin+sleeve Fox hardware (vs 2-piece) and have been happy for more than a month. The new polymer-based bushing-pin-etc mounting hardware may or may not be longer lasting that that but I don't have any to try. No issues from the front shock-eye bushing.
    Cool, I am having good luck with the "heavy duty" Fox 3-piece kit as well with about a few months time on it now, whereas the stock ones would only last about a month depending on how much and how hard of terrain I was riding on. The new Fox polymer kit looks nice and sure it will even last longer as my polymer pivots on my Turner lasted forever (over 3yrs with only seasonal greasing as maintenance).

    I am stoked cause I will be having a new shock arriving soon to test out on the SB, a RS Monarch RC3 HV low tune shock coming tomorrow to replace my toasted RP23. According to Fox dude at an Enduro race a couple of weeks back, my shock is cavitated and the push metering rod is defective and more than likely came from the factory like that from day one as they have seen other shocks come back with similar issues "out of the box". I didn't think anything was wrong with the shock (but no suspension guru), other than it felt notchy at times and LBS, where I bought the Yeti who does all/most of the maintenance on my bike said it didn't feel right a while back as well. I am hoping the RC3 will provide an even livlier and cushier ride while placing less stress on frame as I have encountered some early, unexpected failures of my SB, which I love to hit the trails on and hope to continue to ride it for at least another season or two.
    Ride On!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    I know your terrain, and I know mine, and the biggest punishment difference I can think of (to the bike) is two fold...

    1. believe it or not, the trails here are generally rougher than the Austin trails (seriously); my back-yard trail is a 5 mile stretch that could be characterized as a shale-infested version of a certain serpentine trail laid over top City Park. There's less rough, but essentially no buff trail at all in my near vicinity

    2. the places I hit on the weekend feature 1-3 mile descents, often with rock sections that are a bit more rounded but best ermed low-grade east-coast DH 'gnar'

    So, what I think is that it's the frequency of hits.

    You could also ride "lighter" than I - that's easy to believe - too.
    Yikes- I would have guessed more groomed, but I have never ridden in PA. As you know, you can at least find some trails that are less brutal in CTX. As a comparison, I ride Pace Bend for at least 2 laps a week, and an epic session on BCGB back trails on Saturday.

    And no 1-3 mile descents for sure- and I do tend to pick the smoothest line- too many years on a hard tail to just plow through.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

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    Yes its 2 piece Al hardware.

    Its your choice not to Torque it - but those are some finely calibrated fingers if you
    can judge 10.5 Nm id guess youd not be able to judge it +/- 80% and thats if all you
    do all day is Torque up bolts. The shock bolts will easily snap the heads off ~20Nm.

    I've seen many people who say they can feel to the correct torque but when tested they cant
    tends to be 3 basic manual Torques...
    1. Finger tight
    2. Tight
    3. GRRRRR Tight

    Agreed on really light torqe for shifters on carbon bars etc it as low as possible without it moving.

  34. #34
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    Broke my swingarm on a 2 foot drop. Had it almost 5 months. Yeti is handling it no problems.

    I think it may be due to easily bottoming out the rp23 for heavier riders. Seems it would transfer the remaining stress to the arm near the switch. Anyone else had this problem? Im 6'4" and 235#. Thinking of dhx coil.
    Ride or Die
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  35. #35
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    Broke on a 2 foot drop?? Swade123, did you have the correct air pressure in your RP23 & whats your weight?

  36. #36
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    Yea, but it was a flat landing and more of a hop than a drop... so add a few inches haha. and i think stress over time had a lot to do with it from bottoming out every hit. Its an amazing bike tho, never feel those bottoms an i didnt even know the arm was broken for a while. About a 60% break on the swingarm. I think the dhx rc4 would help take some of that stress off.

    235lbs. And pressure was 245psi.

    Had it between 230 and 250 overtime. Hard to keep it from bottoming and still feel right on the smaller stuff.
    Ride or Die
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    Haro 124 - BMX
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  37. #37
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    I don't think its just the RP23 that is to blame. Glad Yeti is handling it for you.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by swade123 View Post
    Yea, but it was a flat landing and more of a hop than a drop... so add a few inches haha. and i think stress over time had a lot to do with it from bottoming out every hit. Its an amazing bike tho, never feel those bottoms an i didnt even know the arm was broken for a while. About a 60% break on the swingarm. I think the dhx rc4 would help take some of that stress off.

    235lbs. And pressure was 245psi.

    Had it between 230 and 250 overtime. Hard to keep it from bottoming and still feel right on the smaller stuff.
    I would go with the DHX RC4 as well. I have been running a RP23 over past 8 months and would bottom travel alot on almost anything, so went with Fox volume reducer spacer several months ago to correct for that, which Yeti doesn't recommend as it does change the spring rate some. Yes it offers better bottom out protection, but I think will eventually cause problems to shock (cavitation, push metering rod defect) or even to frame if used over time (sheared upper shock/frame linkage)? That's my theory at least. I am waiting to install a Monarch RC3 which Yeti doesn't recommend either due to no testing on the SB66, but hoping it will take some load off the frame and calm the chatter down some during the chunk. Would go RC4 as I am about 215-220lbs geared, but prefer air for ease of set-up and don't like to have to rely on spring weights to get ideal sag and feel as I did for many years on trail bikes before. Good luck, Yeti should take care of you as there have been some failures at that same spot now and sounds like a structurally weaker area on the frame, especially for heavier and/or harder riders..
    Ride On!

  39. #39
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    Pictures worth a thousand turds...

    Anyone who has experienced frame failures care to post up some photos? It would be helpful to see where the problems have occurred so that the rest of us can be on the look out - its not entirely clear from the descriptions that I have read.
    Last edited by CLAW; 08-03-2012 at 02:34 PM.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLAW View Post
    Anyone whose experienced frame failures care to post up some photos? It would be helpful to see where the problems have occurred so that the rest of us can be on the look out - its not entirely clear from the descriptions that I have read.
    Sorry, I didn't take any photos before replacement via LBS as they submitted a photo to get the replacement part for me, but chainstay break occurred on drive side just behind the big ring at weld just before the stay "U's" to other side (I have shiny black frame, so hard to see any warning cracks even though I typically clean and inspect my bike to some degree before every ride). The upper linkage broke just below where linkage connects to rear shock bolt and sheared through on both sides of said linkage and completely disconnected the frame to the shock, felt like a totally blown back end when it happened. A shop/mechanic took a pic for their shop as they sell Yeti while I was at a large mtb event that weekend a couple of weeks ago. I did hear some creaking earlier into the ride while climbing and more than likely had a small crack there before it went. I would just listen and inspect the bike periodically at these locations, especially if you are a +200lb rider and/or ride the SB66 pretty hard on the trails, otherwise just "keep riding it like you stoled it". That's what I do on my rides at least
    Ride On!

  41. #41
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    jgusta, thanks for the description/location of the problems that you've had - I'll add those spots to my list of parts to inspect regularly. I don't care if it breaks, I just rather find it before I get way the hell out in the middle-of-nowhere as I do hate having to walk out. Otherwise, yes, always riding it like I'm late for dinner!

  42. #42
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    Im told yeti redesigned the swing arm/dogbone. They are sending the new ones.

    The swing arm is what broke for me at the bottom near the weld by the front cassette.

    Ive got a pic. Im always checking this on my phone so will post it eventually.
    Ride or Die
    Yeti Sb-66 - AM/FR/XC/DH
    Haro 124 - BMX
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by swade123 View Post
    Im told yeti redesigned the swing arm/dogbone. They are sending the new ones.The swing arm is what broke for me at the bottom near the weld by the front cassette. Ive got a pic. Im always checking this on my phone so will post it eventually.
    What I would really love to see a photo of is the redesigned swingarm and dog-bone. If that is true, it would suggest that these problems are a little more wide-spread than I had thought. Please pass along the details along (and photos) when you get the new parts.

  44. #44
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    New question here. Cracked my SB66 for the 3rd Time !

    Yeti sb66 problems?-yeti-brake3.jpg

    I have the Yeti SB 66 for 12 month by now, i ride them 2/3 times a week , aggressive AM / Lite DH, Jumps 1.5 meters drops, my wight is 95kg and i use the RP23 as rear shock and fox float 160 for front shock.
    these are the best bike i have ridden, i have grate confidence down hill and they climbs so easily.

    In the past 12 month i cracked the swing arm 3 times !!!
    it's always on the same place ..One big crack around a weld on the swing arm . my bike are white so it's easy to spot.
    my local bike shop provide excellent service and i do get a new swing arm replaced withing few days, and this is why i stay with yeti because the service is excellent . but i am not happy at all and not sure what will happen when the 2 years warranty will be over.

    I have been reading on this forum that there are few reports about the easy cracked swing arm and forwarded it to the local dealer (this was done after the second time i cracked the swing arm 4 month ago) so we can get some answers directly from yeti, we where told that a new yeti production line was setup in Taiwan and yeti found that some welding there where not done by yeti standards and this issue was fixed but some swing arms (they did not mention if it's dozens or hundreds) where already shipped to local bike shops around the world.

    I would appreciate it if any one of you that had his Swing arm cracked on the Yeti sb 66 would share few lines about the case.
    wight / shock setup /riding style .will help understand if we have here an epidemic
    Last edited by kal el; 04-09-2013 at 08:10 PM.

  45. #45
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    So far so good. 15 months and I love the bike. Switch was replaced just in case but realy did not have any issues. Squeaks I had were isolated to the pedal and not the frame.......... .I am lighter than you at 80kg and ride and jump less (1m max) but I ride hard on rocky terrain. Must say that even the team paint is still beutifull and the bike looks new.
    Crossing fingers!

  46. #46
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    Just saw your post. Happened to me with shear break at the exact spot #3 among other issues. Sick of the down time of this frame. Quality control is Yeti's job and they dropped the ball. Talked many ex-owners with similar rear triangle issue. Apparently, people had rear triangle issues with the 575 as well.

    Sold the frame upon last replacement. Couldn't be happier with TBC.


    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Yeti brake3.jpg 
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    I have the Yeti SB 66 for 12 month by now, i ride them 2/3 times a week , aggressive AM / Lite DH, Jumps 1.5 meters drops, my wight is 95kg and i use the RP23 as rear shock and fox float 160 for front shock.
    these are the best bike i have ridden, i have grate confidence down hill and they climbs so easily.

    In the past 12 month i cracked the swing arm 3 times !!!
    it's always on the same place ..One big crack around a weld on the swing arm . my bike are white so it's easy to spot.
    my local bike shop provide excellent service and i do get a new swing arm replaced withing few days, and this is why i stay with yeti because the service is excellent . but i am not happy at all and not sure what will happen when the 2 years warranty will be over.

    I have been reading on this forum that there are few reports about the easy cracked swing arm and forwarded it to the local dealer (this was done after the second time i cracked the swing arm 4 month ago) so we can get some answers directly from yeti, we where told that a new yeti production line was setup in Taiwan and yeti found that some welding there where not done by yeti standards and this issue was fixed but some swing arms (they did not mention if it's dozens or hundreds) where already shipped to local bike shops around the world.

    I would appreciate it if any one of you that had his Swing arm cracked on the Yeti sb 66 would share few lines about the case.
    wight / shock setup /riding style .will help understand if we have here an epidemic

  47. #47
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    I too broke my swing arm there. They were good and had me a new swing arm in a week.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    Stop this Derailleur Madness!!.... De-Rail-er

    See what the God of bikes has to say about it..

  48. #48
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    What is it with yeti and rear triangles? This is not a new phenomenon.

  49. #49
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    Hi all. What are the differences between a 2012 and 2013 swingarm? Are there discernible differences? Beefed up weld area, extra material? Any help is greatly appreciated.

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