I just used mine this week, just went for a Blackspire Stinger, fitted and works a treat although will give it a proper run at the weekend. I think it fits better using the ISCG.
BB mount is a halfway solution when you have no ISCG. Not really holding things well in place.
Have you considered going with a stock build? They are are hard to beat for value. Those dont suit folks with strong feelings about many individual components, but that doesn't sound like you (yet). I just got the Enduro plus and aside from the wheels and crank I'm fine with the spec considering the cost. The crank I was able to swap out at no cost, and I'm guessing the wheel upgrade will cost me about $200 (selling stock wheels and buying what I want). Just a thought. Not as fun as picking out each part, but for a given budget you might end up ahead.
Originally Posted by yboc
IŽam looking for a headset for my sb-66 I can use for my frame? I have the Fox F36 Float R 160 fork.
Chris King InSet 2 Headset
Will fit a treat assuming your forks have a tapered steerer...
When you guys got your frames, did you re-torque all the pivot axle bolts, pinch bolts, etc to 90-in/lbs? That seems awfully lot, no? I would think 70-in/lbs would be enough.
I wonder if the Torque values seeming higher than expected to you perhaps may be attributed to some of the fasteners being Titanium?
Originally Posted by mecam
Yet there are no changes between the manuals (2011-2013) as far as torque values are concerned on the SB66
I broke two of the Titanium M6x1x12mm shock bolts already torquing them at 90in/lbs so I just torque them at 70in/lbs. Many other SB66 owners have broke the same screws also and some have switched to stainless steel. I'm just wondering if the specified 90in/lbs on the manual is really mandatory.
Originally Posted by drbelleville
Finally finished up my SB66. Weight came in at 31lbs.
So just want to verify that I have the rear hyrolic line run correctly. I was just going over the bike now after the first ride on Sunday and noticed some markings on the Switch piece. The line also had some rubbings on it. Is this normal, is there a better way to run that line?
I have a hard time imagining a better hose routing, but had the same problem on my SB95.
Originally Posted by adamkob32
My fix was to zip-tie the hose to the vertical member of the rear triangle, so it wouldn't move at all.
Ugly, but no more rub.
Long time lurker, first time poster. I demo'd a SB66c with full XTR and Fox 34 fork before building my bike. After the demo I knew I wanted a SB66 but didn't have $7000+ for the carbon xtr version. I was able to build mine for about $4000. Everything on it was new and I got the fork second hand but it was a takeoff from a new bike and the steer tube was uncut.
This was my first bike build and I was able to put everything together without any professional help other than youtube videos. I bought the frame from Competitive Cyclist (on special for $1760 with CTD shock) and most of the parts from Jenson. A lot of the parts were discounted b/c they didn't include original packaging so that helped on the price a lot.
Frame - Size Large (color is white)
Headset - Cane Creek (installed by CC before shipping)
Fork - Fox Float 150
Shock - Fox CTD
Wheels - 2012 Mavic Crossmax ST
Brakes - XTR Race
Rotors - XT Ice Tech (160 r and 180 f)
Shifters - XTR
Cranks - 2x10 XT
Cassette - 10 spd XT
Chain - XT
Front and Rear Derailleur - XT
Bars - Easton Vice
Stem - 70mm Thompson
Seatpost - Easton Vice
Seat - WTB
Pedals - CB Eggbeaters
Grips - Yeti Logo ODI
Tires - 2.35 Nevegal front / 2.2 WTB Velociraptor rear
I'm installing a Bionicon V.02 chain guide this weekend and will report back on how it performs. Sorry for the crappy pic but I haven't had a chance to take some good ones. I have about 5 rides on the bike and I'm very happy with it. My last bike was a 2009 Fuel EX 8 that I owned for 3 years so that's all I really have to compare it to.
Has anyone used a chainstay protector or tape to protect the painted part of the upper and lower chainstay on the drive side? My chain doesn't cause a problem but sometimes the sole of my shoe will rub and it's surprisingly hard to get the scuff marks off especially on white paint. My temporary solution is to wrap black electrical tape around the area where my shoe rubs.
Frameskin can help there
Yes, in fact I developed a kit that protects the frame from this exact issue (boot scuffing and other general chips/scrapes etc). Cheers Alan
Originally Posted by mblittle
That would be great, as I am thinking of carrying this product and was interested to see what people thought of it. Alan
Originally Posted by mblittle
I've been using the Bionicon since June when I got my '95 and like it. It's not what I call "DH" worthy - I just don't think it's up to that level of (ab)use, but as an XC/AM device I think it's good.
Originally Posted by fishboy2807
I have an MRP XCG bash on my machine on the ISCG tabs, I like that they're separate, but if I get into much enduro/superD racing I would not be surprised to need a more solid tensioner/guide.
Just got done with the mid-winter tear down and rebuild here, upgraded to XT Shadow+ rear and a Fox DHX RC4 coil (300lb) in the process. I wish it would get a little better around here for a ride. Hoping on getting out on Monday to try out the new goods. Current weight now is 32 lbs and with a 120lb rider I'm pretty happy with that.
Nice build. The DHX-RC4 makes the SB66 so good it's silly.
ill be buying a double barrel air pretty soon to replace that rp23. just am not getting at all the ride i want out of that thing.
I have seen your bike out and about a couple of times and that trail you are about to go down at Kate Reed is awesome for this type of bike. Mine is set up a bit different but rips the new trail at Trevallyn.
Originally Posted by treestump
Yeah awesome. There aren't many of them around here. Have you got one of the other black ones from Sprung? It works pretty well for the trails around here, wish I had a set of Fox 34s though! What are you running on yours?
Originally Posted by morebravo
Anyone have experience on the carbon version? I've ridden one twice now and really have a good time on it. Any noticeable differences?
And also, I've browsed through a few pages and it looks like most are ~30lbs mark. Any builds get any lower than 30?
Long Long time lurker
but heres mine !
Frame, Fork & Shock
Frame: Yeti SB-66A (Large) Turquiose
Fork: Fox 34 Float 150 FIT CTD w/Trail Adjust
Rear Shock: Fox RP23 w/Kashima (8.5"x2.5")
Crankset: Shimano XTR M980 175mm
Bottom Bracket: Shimano XTR
Chainrings: Shimano XTR 33T
Chain: KMC X10SL Gold
Pedals: Shimano XTR M985 Trail
Front Derailleur: cSixx HD XC Guide
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X0 Type2 10spd (med cage)
Rear Shifter: SRAM X0 10x Trigger
Cassette: Shimano XT M771 10spd (11-36T)
Gear Cable: Jagwire L3
Brakes: Shimano XT M785
Adapters: Shimano F180P/P2
Rotors : Shimano XT RT86 Ice-Tech 6-Bolt 180F/160R
Handlebar: Azonic World Force 2" Riser
Grip: Generic Blue Lock-on
Stem: Thomson X4 (70 x 0o)
Headset: Cane Creek Forty
Saddle: WTB Rocket V Titanium
Seat Post: Thomson Masterpiece Inline 30.9 x 350mm
Seat Clamp: Salsa Flip-Lock 35.0
Wheels & Tyres
Front Rim: ZTR Flow 26" 32 Hole
Rear Rim: ZTR Flow 26" 32 Hole
Front Hub: Hope Pro II Evo
Rear Hub: Hope Pro II Evo
Spokes: DT Swiss Comp
Skewer: Shimano XT M780
Front Tyre: Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35 Evo Snakeskin TL Ready TrailStar
Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.10 Evo TL PaceStar
Tubes: Stan's 35mm Valves, 25mm Rim tape and Tire Sealant
Total weight - 13.52 kg
cant post pics !!!