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  1. #951
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    For those who have spent time on the new 34s, how do they feel in terms of stiffness? After a few 36s the 32 felt way too flimsy. I'm thinking a 32 or 34 with a 20mm axle would have been money.

  2. #952
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dazzler2409 View Post
    oh and how do you make your SB stand up????
    It's just well trained!

    Managed to get it built just in time for the gravity enduro at Dyfi Forest. Nice rocky, fast descents to tune the shock in. The CCDBAir feels amazing to me, small adjustments make big differences to the handling. Although some suggest a Monarch for the frame, I had a good offer from the cane creek and that decided it for me.

    The bike as a whole is confidence inspiring. I haven't ridden anything yet where I felt that I needed the DH bike. If anything the lighter bike is easier to handle. I just need to get a few more rides in to get the shocks all dialled in. I was expecting alot more pedal bob during climbs on the 66 frame, I can't say how much is down to my settings on the ccdbair but it pedals really well.

    Glad to hear you're getting back on the trails Dazzler, time has flown, it seems only yesterday I put my hand in a cast!

    As for the 34's - I was unsure whether to go for 36's again. I spoke to the guys at Mojo in the UK and over a few phone calls the team riders all suggested the 34 as it supposedly offers more control in the corners. I honestly can't notice too much difference between the 34 & 36, although the 34 feels a lot more plush and stable than the 2012 float 32 on my hardtail. That combined with the 1lb weight saving over the 36 swayed the decision for me. I'm also very impressed with the CTD.

  3. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubbolo View Post
    This is my first post here, my name is Jacopo and i'm from Italy

    Here you are my SB66 just after a ride in Monte Morello, the mountain near Florence (Italy), it's not clean, but i love it

    Frame: Small
    Ammo: RS Monarch Plus RC3
    Headset: Cane Creek tapered
    Fork: RS Lyrik Air DH, 170mm, maybe one day i'll try it at 160mm
    Stem: Funn Funduro black, 45mm
    Bar: Funn Fatboy orange cut a 730mm
    Commands: Shimano XT
    Brakes: Formula R1
    Disk: Alligator 180-160
    Crankset: Shimano XTR, 165mm, 26/38
    Pedals: Shimano XTR Trail
    Der: Shimano XTR
    Rear der: Shimano XTR
    Cogs: Shimano XT 11/36 10v
    Wheelset: Crank Iodine black/orange
    Seatpost: Blacx Jewel AM 110mm
    Saddle: SDG Duster Ti white/grey
    Grips: Yeti of course
    Other stuff: E-Thirteen Heim chain guide; FRM 142mm rear axle (replace the heavy Shimano, it weights 47 gr less); vintage Crud Catcher as down tube protection

    Weight is 13,9 Kg with Maxxis High Roller LUST 2,35 and Stan sealant

    Happy riding !

    Cheers
    Jacopo
    Hey Jacopo,
    If you don't mind me asking, how tall are you?
    "Don't stop when you're tired. Stop when you're done"

    -Mojo HD
    -Niner AIR 9 Carbon SS
    -Zion 737 EBB SS

  4. #954
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    To the M-Size-Riders: How tall are you? I´am 6' (182cm) and didn´t know what size is better. Medium or Large? I ride more technical trails.

    Sorry for my bad english.

  5. #955
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    Hi Osbow,

    I am 5'10" (1.79m) and ride a medium. It is perfect for me with a short 50mm stem. It has a real good long reach for a medium. I think a 70mm stem would be perfect for you especially if you prefer a more technical ride, more XC I would consider Large.

    As for bad language... We all speak the same lingo on the Yeti thread no matter where you come from
    Steed: Yeti SB-66

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  6. #956
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    I'm 5'7" and riding a medium SB66, which I totally dig the fit & riding position of. Depends how you like your bike to fit... I have a mate who's 6" and rides a medium 575 and really likes it.
    Not really doing much Ridin' or Diggin'

  7. #957
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    Hey Dazzler2409,

    thank you for your feedback! My size is terrible. I´am always between the sizes. :/

    What do you think about the combo: Large with a short 35mm stem?

    Just another question: Does the Shimano XT FD-M786 Downswing fit?

  8. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by osbow View Post
    Just another question: Does the Shimano XT FD-M786 Downswing fit?
    It uses a direct mount derailleur - 786-D.

  9. #959
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    @osbow - What do you think about the combo: Large with a short 35mm stem?

    I ride a medium and with the longer top tube of the SB66 find myself most comfortable on a 35mm stem. It's great for descending, but I do catch myself fighting to keep the front wheel down on steeper climbs. Alternately when I run a 50mm stem it definitely climbs better, but gives up a bit on descending.

  10. #960
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    hey brkel, how tall are you?

  11. #961
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    osbow - hey brkel, how tall are you?

    I'm 5'-9" riding a medium SB66. With a medium frame I find it takes a conscious effort to re-centre your body wieght (forward on the turns / centered for jumps) wereas on a shorter TT bike it seems to happen more naturally.

    I do find though for steep, rooty, rocky sections the long TT / wheelbase make for a very stable bike and allow you to carry some extra speed through those sections.

  12. #962
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    Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?

  13. #963
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    Quote Originally Posted by yboc View Post
    Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?
    Its doable. It takes time and what I would recommend doing is making an Excel spreadsheet, and then listing each part and then pricing each part out. Here's an example:
    Attached Files Attached Files

  14. #964
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    It's a wide open question yboc which the answer is very dependant on your riding style, trail types, etc.

    I spread my budget wisely and invested in all non-consumable items with a for a fairly burly build including 36 talas, hope hoops (Stans Flow rims) hope M4 brakes, Renthal bar/stem, Joplin 4 dropper. I went with SLX complete drive train (2x10) which I can upgrade as it wears out. This allowed me to pump money in to the bread & butter stuff you wouldn't likely replace. A wise punt I think as drive train is consumable and can be upgraded over coming years...

    This is a very strong heavy build that isn't a quick as a more XC orientated light weight buil but gives me a good confident ride. I ride without much finesse and @ 220lbs (me not bike!) it felt better suited for me.

    A 32 fork for XC tilt, 34 for XC/AM and 36 for AM/FR is a good guide. I would suggest 2 foot, 4 foot and 6 foot drops respectively should categorise reasonably well!?!
    Steed: Yeti SB-66

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  15. #965
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    Haha... Bikeboard' I did very similar spreadsheet (without the weight) to help derive the optimum build for me when I was spec'ing up my SB. Quick easy to juggle components about to balance budget across the build. I really enjoy this process, which was my first custom build. I spent many weeks with not too much hurry as I was laid up with broken leg so helped me through a rough spell.

    All good now that bike is built and I am back in the saddle loving every mile!!!
    Steed: Yeti SB-66

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  16. #966
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    Dazzler2409, I have to say this spreadsheet has been quite fun to piece together until buying time comes. I wouldn't call me a weight weenie by any means, but I figured while I was at it I'd add it on and see about where I'd be at. I'd say your categorization of forks is fairly accurate, I just wish I could get a non CTD Fox 34.

  17. #967
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    To be fair I may have gone for a 34 fork had they been an option when I got mine. Not sure about the simplicity of the CTD though? I prefer the scope of the RC2 FIT to tune the perfect custom handling. I think the CTD detracts from the ability to do this. I am heavier build and therefore CTD doesn't allow to tune for this without FOX service centre tuning, I would imagine the D to be under damped?
    Steed: Yeti SB-66

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  18. #968
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    Thanks guys.

    I will definitely do a spreadsheet to kind of get an idea of what parts to get. Right now I'm still trying to learn about all the different parts, and trying to get an idea what might work best for me.

    I live in Utah, so there's quite a bit of mountain trails and also a lot of desert ones down south. As far as what kind of riding I'll be doing, its vague I know but I really think I'll be pretty versatile with it. Definitely some lengthy trail rides with climbs, and some technical and speedy descents as I progress too. I come from a offroad motorcycle background so some jumping, and flowy riding is also something I'd like to do.

    I honestly have so many questions about parts, I don't even know where to start.

  19. #969
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    Dazzler, it sounds like we have similar concerns with the 34. While I haven't ridden one myself, the general consensus from other is the that all the tuning "options" end up limiting the its ability to be fine-tuned, which I think would only be magnified for those that are lighter or heavier than what the fork was tuned for.

    yboc, if it helps I'm up in Ogden. Where do you normally ride? I think a SLX kit is a great way to go. As a kit the weight is just a bit more than XT, but the breaks are arguably just as powerful and the cranks just as stiff. If you can fit a Reverb into the build it is definitely worth it, especially with all the ups and downs Utah has. Its the best upgrade I've made to a bike thus far.

  20. #970
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    Guys moving into a sb66 frommy 575... I have the 2012 xt 3x cranks and plan to ad a bash guard in place of the big ring. What's the right xt or xtr front derailleur to run with that set up..

    Thanks

  21. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    . What's the right xt or xtr front derailleur to run with that set up..

    Thanks
    none

  22. #972
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    Lol don't have the legs or lungs for that set up!

  23. #973
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    I'm having problems finding an SB-66 Alloy Frame Medium in the Turquoise color. Anyone see any available lately? Thanks.

  24. #974
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    I just bought a Carbon on Saturday. Went in wanting the Aluminium one. It was going to take about 2 months for the dealer to get an alloy version. Apparently everyone has been scooping them up like hot cakes, combined with a low number (in comparison to other brands) made.

  25. #975
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    Did anybody use the Iscg Tabs for a Chainguide? What is the advantage over a Iscg an BB-Mounting?

  26. #976
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    I just used mine this week, just went for a Blackspire Stinger, fitted and works a treat although will give it a proper run at the weekend. I think it fits better using the ISCG.

  27. #977
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    BB mount is a halfway solution when you have no ISCG. Not really holding things well in place.

  28. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by yboc View Post
    Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?
    Have you considered going with a stock build? They are are hard to beat for value. Those dont suit folks with strong feelings about many individual components, but that doesn't sound like you (yet). I just got the Enduro plus and aside from the wheels and crank I'm fine with the spec considering the cost. The crank I was able to swap out at no cost, and I'm guessing the wheel upgrade will cost me about $200 (selling stock wheels and buying what I want). Just a thought. Not as fun as picking out each part, but for a given budget you might end up ahead.

  29. #979
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    I´am looking for a headset for my sb-66 I can use for my frame? I have the Fox F36 Float R 160 fork.

  30. #980
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    Chris King InSet 2 Headset

    Will fit a treat assuming your forks have a tapered steerer...

  31. #981
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    When you guys got your frames, did you re-torque all the pivot axle bolts, pinch bolts, etc to 90-in/lbs? That seems awfully lot, no? I would think 70-in/lbs would be enough.

  32. #982
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecam View Post
    When you guys got your frames, did you re-torque all the pivot axle bolts, pinch bolts, etc to 90-in/lbs? That seems awfully lot, no? I would think 70-in/lbs would be enough.
    I wonder if the Torque values seeming higher than expected to you perhaps may be attributed to some of the fasteners being Titanium?

    Yet there are no changes between the manuals (2011-2013) as far as torque values are concerned on the SB66

  33. #983
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
    I wonder if the Torque values seeming higher than expected to you perhaps may be attributed to some of the fasteners being Titanium?

    Yet there are no changes between the manuals (2011-2013) as far as torque values are concerned on the SB66
    I broke two of the Titanium M6x1x12mm shock bolts already torquing them at 90in/lbs so I just torque them at 70in/lbs. Many other SB66 owners have broke the same screws also and some have switched to stainless steel. I'm just wondering if the specified 90in/lbs on the manual is really mandatory.



    -

  34. #984
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    Finally finished up my SB66. Weight came in at 31lbs.


  35. #985
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    Bike all done, no more upgrades (we all know that's not true). X-Post All Mountain.



  36. #986
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    So just want to verify that I have the rear hyrolic line run correctly. I was just going over the bike now after the first ride on Sunday and noticed some markings on the Switch piece. The line also had some rubbings on it. Is this normal, is there a better way to run that line?


  37. #987
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamkob32 View Post
    ... I was just going over the bike now after the first ride on Sunday and noticed some markings on the Switch piece. The line also had some rubbings on it. Is this normal, is there a better way to run that line?
    I have a hard time imagining a better hose routing, but had the same problem on my SB95.

    My fix was to zip-tie the hose to the vertical member of the rear triangle, so it wouldn't move at all.

    Ugly, but no more rub.

  38. #988
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    Long time lurker, first time poster. I demo'd a SB66c with full XTR and Fox 34 fork before building my bike. After the demo I knew I wanted a SB66 but didn't have $7000+ for the carbon xtr version. I was able to build mine for about $4000. Everything on it was new and I got the fork second hand but it was a takeoff from a new bike and the steer tube was uncut.

    This was my first bike build and I was able to put everything together without any professional help other than youtube videos. I bought the frame from Competitive Cyclist (on special for $1760 with CTD shock) and most of the parts from Jenson. A lot of the parts were discounted b/c they didn't include original packaging so that helped on the price a lot.

    Frame - Size Large (color is white)
    Headset - Cane Creek (installed by CC before shipping)
    Fork - Fox Float 150
    Shock - Fox CTD
    Wheels - 2012 Mavic Crossmax ST
    Brakes - XTR Race
    Rotors - XT Ice Tech (160 r and 180 f)
    Shifters - XTR
    Cranks - 2x10 XT
    Cassette - 10 spd XT
    Chain - XT
    Front and Rear Derailleur - XT
    Bars - Easton Vice
    Stem - 70mm Thompson
    Seatpost - Easton Vice
    Seat - WTB
    Pedals - CB Eggbeaters
    Grips - Yeti Logo ODI
    Tires - 2.35 Nevegal front / 2.2 WTB Velociraptor rear

    I'm installing a Bionicon V.02 chain guide this weekend and will report back on how it performs. Sorry for the crappy pic but I haven't had a chance to take some good ones. I have about 5 rides on the bike and I'm very happy with it. My last bike was a 2009 Fuel EX 8 that I owned for 3 years so that's all I really have to compare it to.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB-66 Build thread-photo.jpg  

    Last edited by mblittle; 02-14-2013 at 01:10 PM.

  39. #989
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    Has anyone used a chainstay protector or tape to protect the painted part of the upper and lower chainstay on the drive side? My chain doesn't cause a problem but sometimes the sole of my shoe will rub and it's surprisingly hard to get the scuff marks off especially on white paint. My temporary solution is to wrap black electrical tape around the area where my shoe rubs.

  40. #990
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    Frameskin can help there

    Yes, in fact I developed a kit that protects the frame from this exact issue (boot scuffing and other general chips/scrapes etc). Cheers Alan

    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Has anyone used a chainstay protector or tape to protect the painted part of the upper and lower chainstay on the drive side? My chain doesn't cause a problem but sometimes the sole of my shoe will rub and it's surprisingly hard to get the scuff marks off especially on white paint. My temporary solution is to wrap black electrical tape around the area where my shoe rubs.
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  41. #991
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    I'm installing a Bionicon V.02 chain guide this weekend and will report back on how it performs.
    That would be great, as I am thinking of carrying this product and was interested to see what people thought of it. Alan
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  42. #992
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishboy2807 View Post
    That would be great, as I am thinking of carrying this product and was interested to see what people thought of it. Alan
    I've been using the Bionicon since June when I got my '95 and like it. It's not what I call "DH" worthy - I just don't think it's up to that level of (ab)use, but as an XC/AM device I think it's good.

    I have an MRP XCG bash on my machine on the ISCG tabs, I like that they're separate, but if I get into much enduro/superD racing I would not be surprised to need a more solid tensioner/guide.

  43. #993
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    Just got done with the mid-winter tear down and rebuild here, upgraded to XT Shadow+ rear and a Fox DHX RC4 coil (300lb) in the process. I wish it would get a little better around here for a ride. Hoping on getting out on Monday to try out the new goods. Current weight now is 32 lbs and with a 120lb rider I'm pretty happy with that.





    --Adam

  44. #994
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    Nice build. The DHX-RC4 makes the SB66 so good it's silly.

  45. #995
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    ill be buying a double barrel air pretty soon to replace that rp23. just am not getting at all the ride i want out of that thing.

  46. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by treestump View Post
    Bike all done, no more upgrades (we all know that's not true). X-Post All Mountain.


    I have seen your bike out and about a couple of times and that trail you are about to go down at Kate Reed is awesome for this type of bike. Mine is set up a bit different but rips the new trail at Trevallyn.

  47. #997
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    Quote Originally Posted by morebravo View Post
    I have seen your bike out and about a couple of times and that trail you are about to go down at Kate Reed is awesome for this type of bike. Mine is set up a bit different but rips the new trail at Trevallyn.
    Yeah awesome. There aren't many of them around here. Have you got one of the other black ones from Sprung? It works pretty well for the trails around here, wish I had a set of Fox 34s though! What are you running on yours?

  48. #998
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    Anyone have experience on the carbon version? I've ridden one twice now and really have a good time on it. Any noticeable differences?

    And also, I've browsed through a few pages and it looks like most are ~30lbs mark. Any builds get any lower than 30?

  49. #999
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    Long Long time lurker

    but heres mine !




    Yeti SB-66A
    __________________________________________________



    Frame, Fork & Shock
    Frame: Yeti SB-66A (Large) Turquiose
    Fork: Fox 34 Float 150 FIT CTD w/Trail Adjust
    Rear Shock: Fox RP23 w/Kashima (8.5"x2.5")

    Drivetrain
    Crankset: Shimano XTR M980 175mm
    Bottom Bracket: Shimano XTR
    Chainrings: Shimano XTR 33T
    Chain: KMC X10SL Gold
    Pedals: Shimano XTR M985 Trail
    Front Derailleur: cSixx HD XC Guide
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X0 Type2 10spd (med cage)
    Rear Shifter: SRAM X0 10x Trigger
    Cassette: Shimano XT M771 10spd (11-36T)
    Gear Cable: Jagwire L3

    Brakeset
    Brakes: Shimano XT M785
    Adapters: Shimano F180P/P2
    Rotors : Shimano XT RT86 Ice-Tech 6-Bolt 180F/160R

    Controls
    Handlebar: Azonic World Force 2" Riser
    Grip: Generic Blue Lock-on
    Stem: Thomson X4 (70 x 0o)
    Headset: Cane Creek Forty
    Saddle: WTB Rocket V Titanium
    Seat Post: Thomson Masterpiece Inline 30.9 x 350mm
    Seat Clamp: Salsa Flip-Lock 35.0

    Wheels & Tyres
    Front Rim: ZTR Flow 26" 32 Hole
    Rear Rim: ZTR Flow 26" 32 Hole
    Front Hub: Hope Pro II Evo
    Rear Hub: Hope Pro II Evo
    Spokes: DT Swiss Comp
    Skewer: Shimano XT M780
    Front Tyre: Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35 Evo Snakeskin TL Ready TrailStar
    Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.10 Evo TL PaceStar
    Tubes: Stan's 35mm Valves, 25mm Rim tape and Tire Sealant



    Total weight - 13.52 kg

    __________________________________________________

  50. #1000
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    dammit !
    cant post pics !!!

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