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  1. #1951
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    I spoke to Fox specifically about the OEM shock tune. It just has extra stiff LSC, everything else is off the shelf valving, same as if you bought the shock from any vender. I specifically asked Fox if I needed to start with my X2 utilizing the same base valving stack. They said no, that simply turning in the LSC would get me to the exact same spot. I actually like how the bike stock rides high in the stroke (LSC) it's the HSC on baby-heads that I find, unforgiving. That adjustability is what I was after with the X2. No complaints otherwise.

    Your climbing testimonial is convincing, but I can ride up vertical walls on my stock 5.5, the only thing limiting me is my wattage, not the traction or anything else. I only feel limited by the shock when the rear tire is hitting consecutive and perfectly vertical rocks, it doesn't deal well with that situation imo and the bike's momentum tries to stall out.

    Going downhill is where I hope to see some 'coil like' performance out of the new X2 as my Float X got real chattery and a bit out of control as I tried to increase downhill speed. It's not nearly as smooth in the rear as my Fox forks or even my VPP with a Cane Creek Inline on my previous Bronson.

    PS. I did call Push about their nice coil shock, and in so many words the guy told me not to waste my money. Told me point blank, and his honesty was appreciated, that they had tried and had not came up with a valving stack that was really an improvement over stock in an air or the coil shock. That was about 1 month ago.

    I do run Ohlins front and rear on my KTM and it's great stuff for sure. But like I said, I'm more comfortable with the air shock for this bike and my application.

  2. #1952
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    The whole reason I tried a coil was because of rear end chatter that was most definitely rebound deficiency with the stock Fox. It just isn't optimized for any load requiring more than 250ish psi in my opinion. The higher the PSI the more rebound to slow things down when speeds increase. The coil fixed that in spades. Keep in mind the only rear tire I've had for back to back comparison is the Vitorria Mezcal which is a nice fast rolling XC tire, not a ton of traction up or down though, specially in any loose terrain so it was extra sensitive to traction skip of any sort. I went from the rear tire wanting to hop/skip out braking into turns with stock Fox air can to drifting predictably with the Ohlins as it wasn't hopping, that's beneficial down hill or XC just not necessarily for a hucker.
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  3. #1953
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbob27 View Post
    I've been riding the 55 for a few weeks now. Just sold my year old sb6 to pay for it, and I'm undecided on whether that was the right move, the 5.5 is a better all a rounder, pedals better, steeper angle is more comfortable. It's a fast bike, no question, but it doesn't hold a line in the steep tetchy fast stuff the way the 6 did. Which is ironic considering that it's a 29er. In actually feels like a lot smaller bike than the 6. If I had to do it again, I'd probably size up to the xl. I'm 6"1 190 pounds. Curious to see how the bike stacks up in all out enduro racing and park rides. I want to call the guy I sold my 6 to and get it back haha
    At your height, I probably would have sized up too. 5'10" here and riding a size L also.

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  4. #1954
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    I spoke to Fox specifically about the OEM shock tune. It just has extra stiff LSC, everything else is off the shelf valving, same as if you bought the shock from any vender. I specifically asked Fox if I needed to start with my X2 utilizing the same base valving stack. They said no, that simply turning in the LSC would get me to the exact same spot. I actually like how the bike stock rides high in the stroke (LSC) it's the HSC on baby-heads that I find, unforgiving. That adjustability is what I was after with the X2. No complaints otherwise.

    Your climbing testimonial is convincing, but I can ride up vertical walls on my stock 5.5, the only thing limiting me is my wattage, not the traction or anything else. I only feel limited by the shock when the rear tire is hitting consecutive and perfectly vertical rocks, it doesn't deal well with that situation imo and the bike's momentum tries to stall out.

    Going downhill is where I hope to see some 'coil like' performance out of the new X2 as my Float X got real chattery and a bit out of control as I tried to increase downhill speed. It's not nearly as smooth in the rear as my Fox forks or even my VPP with a Cane Creek Inline on my previous Bronson.

    PS. I did call Push about their nice coil shock, and in so many words the guy told me not to waste my money. Told me point blank, and his honesty was appreciated, that they had tried and had not came up with a valving stack that was really an improvement over stock in an air or the coil shock. That was about 1 month ago.

    I do run Ohlins front and rear on my KTM and it's great stuff for sure. But like I said, I'm more comfortable with the air shock for this bike and my application.
    What are your thoughts thus far regarding your switch to the x2 from the X? I see you even played around with the shock wiz. I have an X2 on mine since day 1 and have yet to try the stock X shock. Even with the X2, I can relate to the high speed spikes you're referring to, running HSC full out is really the only way to calm it down some. I too feel like it wants to hang up and stall rather easily on the sharp edged roots & rocks more than I'd like, especially for a 29er. I'm sure to an extent this maybe a characteristic of this susp design but... I remember the original Switch linkage having a similiar characteristic as well.

    I may toss the OE shock on to see how it feels as the X2 does seem to gobble up some energy and push into mid stroke pretty easily. I get a sense from others reviews of the stock X setup that the X2 is most likely taking away some of the playfulness and pedal efficiency in return for more burly plow factor. I've run the X2 so far with anywhere from 0-2 spacers at pressures varying 165 - 190. Currently at 1 spacer and 175 psi, LSC 20, HSC 24, LSR 19, HSR 21 seems to be the best setup for rooty rocky chunk trails. I'm around 185lbs kitted FWIW.

  5. #1955
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    No real time on the X2 yet unfortunately.

    My rear cassette was giving me massive problems on the 1 ride I attempted and now I'm awaiting a replacement.

  6. #1956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    PS. I did call Push about their nice coil shock, and in so many words the guy told me not to waste my money. Told me point blank, and his honesty was appreciated, that they had tried and had not came up with a valving stack that was really an improvement over stock in an air or the coil shock. That was about 1 month ago.
    .
    ??? On what bike? Any application that we release an ELEVENSIX for has been thoroughly tested before being released to provide a significant performance gap or we don't release it.

    In the case of the Yeti SB's we even go so far as to machine specific compression valves to work with the unique nature of their leverage characteristics. That's correct....not valving changes, we actually install different valves with a different flow rate.

    Darren

  7. #1957
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    Darren, I think you were the guy I spoke to regarding my 5.5. Did you tell me your wife rode a Yeti as well? I called right after someone mistakenly announced a group buy on the Push shocks.

    I'm really trying to remember without being incorrect. Maybe the conversation was more like:

    "we have not been able to improve the valving on the OEM shock & it doesn't sound like for your riding you would see much gain in an 11-6 shock."

    Where what I took from it, was that 'I will see no notable improvements'. My sincerest apologies if I am recalling incorrectly.

    But now that we have got you here Darren I have questions!

    1) The Euro dude that maps linkage rates for various bikes, does he have it right in general but more specifically does he have it right for the 5.5?

    2) More to the point, is SI really as linear as he claims?

    3) How do you guys create a valving set up for a particular bike?

    4) Is a coil shock the best choice for an enduro ridden SI linkage bike?

    Thanks.



    Thanks

  8. #1958
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Darren, I think you were the guy I spoke to regarding my 5.5. Did you tell me your wife rode a Yeti as well? I called right after someone mistakenly announced a group buy on the Push shocks.

    I'm really trying to remember without being incorrect. Maybe the conversation was more like:

    "we have not been able to improve the valving on the OEM shock & it doesn't sound like for your riding you would see much gain in an 11-6 shock."

    Where what I took from it, was that 'I will see no notable improvements'. My sincerest apologies if I am recalling incorrectly.

    But now that we have got you here Darren I have questions!

    1) The Euro dude that maps linkage rates for various bikes, does he have it right in general but more specifically does he have it right for the 5.5?

    2) More to the point, is SI really as linear as he claims?

    3) How do you guys create a valving set up for a particular bike?

    4) Is a coil shock the best choice for an enduro ridden SI linkage bike?

    Thanks.



    Thanks
    It wasn't me...otherwise you'd already be riding an ELEVENSIX and signing the praises!

    To answer your quesitons,

    1. I haven't spent a lot of time looking at his/her work, but in what I've seen on the forums there has been a lot of information that doesn't match up with what we've experienced with the actual bike. I believe his study of the leverage comes from an image which is not the most accurate representation....especially considering manufacturer images are often photoshopped prototypes! In the case of the Yeti curves I would disagree with some of what is published.

    2. The Yeti's fall into the "flatter" leverage characteristic category for sure.

    3. In the case of the SB's, or any bike in that case, it's not just valving... You have to look at the spring and damping system. With the 5.5 we use a high flow piston with lighter low speed compression and higher high speed valving, our highest flow compression valve, lighter level rebound valving, lighter spring rates, and a mid to high level progressive bump stop density. This gives us decreased resistance at low velocities where the bike doesn't generate a lot of mechanical leverage maximizing small bump sensitivity and off camber traction. The mechanical pedal efficiency of their design allows us to achieve that without penalizing efficiency. The more progressive spring characteristic matched with an early initialization of high speed damping help control the bigger impacts.

    4. Yes, absolutely with the ELEVENSIX. A coil shock without some form of progressive spring characteristic would need to be over-sprung to help with bottoming and may not give you the notable difference that you would expect over an air shock.

    Darren

  9. #1959
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUSHIND View Post
    It wasn't me...otherwise you'd already be riding an ELEVENSIX and signing the praises!

    To answer your quesitons,

    1. I haven't spent a lot of time looking at his/her work, but in what I've seen on the forums there has been a lot of information that doesn't match up with what we've experienced with the actual bike. I believe his study of the leverage comes from an image which is not the most accurate representation....especially considering manufacturer images are often photoshopped prototypes! In the case of the Yeti curves I would disagree with some of what is published.

    2. The Yeti's fall into the "flatter" leverage characteristic category for sure.

    3. In the case of the SB's, or any bike in that case, it's not just valving... You have to look at the spring and damping system. With the 5.5 we use a high flow piston with lighter low speed compression and higher high speed valving, our highest flow compression valve, lighter level rebound valving, lighter spring rates, and a mid to high level progressive bump stop density. This gives us decreased resistance at low velocities where the bike doesn't generate a lot of mechanical leverage maximizing small bump sensitivity and off camber traction. The mechanical pedal efficiency of their design allows us to achieve that without penalizing efficiency. The more progressive spring characteristic matched with an early initialization of high speed damping help control the bigger impacts.

    4. Yes, absolutely with the ELEVENSIX. A coil shock without some form of progressive spring characteristic would need to be over-sprung to help with bottoming and may not give you the notable difference that you would expect over an air shock.

    Darren
    This just translates to, there's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is how we do it. High flow requires such tuning of the circuits. A regular person shouldn't think that their existing shock should have lighter LSC, higher HSC, lighter rebound and spring rate, with fairly progressive bottom out for such a flat leverage. It's just their recipe for grip and control, just like how Trek has their Re:Aktiv recipe, and Cane Creek has theirs. They might have just thought that the SI could use with more sensitive fine tuning to get an improvement on such a high performance platform, hence higher flow (which comes with its own downsides).

    Glad to see someone who takes suspension seriously help cut the foolishness here, trying people to get the entire picture of factoring everything to get the desired end result, rather than yapping pointlessly about isolated factors like leverage curve and "valving" (seeing this word being thrown around as meaninglessly as "kinematics"), as if they are the master key to good suspension. Though, I have to admit that I'm getting really poor-taste marketing vibes from the last post, with all the techno-jargon that I doubt a majority will understand.

    BTW, what parts of the analysis do you disagree with? Seems pretty straightforward to me without the software, that I can't find anything that I disagree with from the charts.

  10. #1960
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    The Yeti web site now shows the SB5.5 is now spec with a Fox Dropper post. Still waiting on Jenson, they say the will have the bike on the 26th......
    Better than most, not as good as some.

  11. #1961
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    Fox are out of transfers apparently. I assume they're releasing a revised model at sea otter which will be available shortly thereafter.

  12. #1962
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    Has anyone tried to fit a Maxxis WT 29x2.5 tires into the back of the 5.5 yet? Or the new Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.6? I'm curious if either would fit... I'd like to run them if possible.

  13. #1963
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaptorAddict View Post
    Has anyone tried to fit a Maxxis WT 29x2.5 tires into the back of the 5.5 yet? Or the new Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.6? I'm curious if either would fit... I'd like to run them if possible.
    DHF 2.5 on rear at tightest point.

    The NN 2.6 is actually more narrow.

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  14. #1964
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    DHF 2.5 on rear at tightest point.

    The NN 2.6 is actually more narrow.

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    CHEERS! That's a great photo! Really appreciate it.

  15. #1965
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    DHF 2.5 on rear at tightest point.

    The NN 2.6 is actually more narrow.

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    Remind us what rims you're using?

  16. #1966
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    I'm sure this has already been covered, (been looking but no joy) but has anyone dropped their fox36 fork down to 150mm or built up a 5.5 with a 150mm fork and is it even a noticeable difference in terms of steering/climbing?

  17. #1967
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    Suns, have you ridden with the 2.5 DHF in the rear yet? I know you hadn't a few weeks back.

    My stock Aggressor is getting pretty chewed up so time for a new tire soon.

    Have to say that I have been very happy with the Aggressor as an all around tire. Rolls quite well, is reasonably tough and has pretty awesome grip for the amount of tread it has. Might try a DD aggressor next.

  18. #1968
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    Quote Originally Posted by OMEGANOX View Post
    I'm sure this has already been covered, (been looking but no joy) but has anyone dropped their fox36 fork down to 150mm or built up a 5.5 with a 150mm fork and is it even a noticeable difference in terms of steering/climbing?
    People have. Consensus was that the bike did climb better and had quicker handling.

  19. #1969
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaptorAddict View Post
    CHEERS! That's a great photo! Really appreciate it.
    Is that a DHF 29 x 2.5 WT? I can't find the WT casing listed on the Maxxis site for the DHF in a 29" size, only 27.5.

    The Shorty comes 29 x 2.5 WT.

  20. #1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeder1 View Post
    Is that a DHF 29 x 2.5 WT? I can't find the WT casing listed on the Maxxis site for the DHF in a 29" size, only 27.5.

    The Shorty comes 29 x 2.5 WT.
    The DHF 2.5 WT is the stock front tire...


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  21. #1971
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinrider View Post
    The DHF 2.5 WT is the stock front tire...


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    You sure about that? Maxxis doesn't list a WT model in a DHF 29'er tire. Mine isn't specifically labeled WT on the sidewall whereas the WT models I had on my Nomad specifically said "WT".

  22. #1972
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crit Rat View Post
    People have. Consensus was that the bike did climb better and had quicker handling.
    I rode a 5.5 with a 150 diamond and it was great. I really like how the bike climbed and felt like it gave up nothing on the downhill.

    I never bumped up to 160 so i cant comment on the differences. 150 for me was perfect.

  23. #1973
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    You sure about that? Maxxis doesn't list a WT model in a DHF 29'er tire. Mine isn't specifically labeled WT on the sidewall whereas the WT models I had on my Nomad specifically said "WT".
    Rondre there is no 2.5 version that is in 29 or 27.5 that is not WT in the DHF or the 2.4 DHRII.

  24. #1974
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    Rondre there is no 2.5 version that is in 29 or 27.5 that is not WT in the DHF or the 2.4 DHRII.
    Maxxis has had a 29x2.5 DHF for years. Look at their specs: WT versions are clearly noted as such. The 2.5 DHF isn't.

    http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-468-121-minion-dhf

  25. #1975
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Remind us what rims you're using?
    35-36mm ID Nox wheels. Sorry, forget the model name.

  26. #1976
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crit Rat View Post
    Suns, have you ridden with the 2.5 DHF in the rear yet? I know you hadn't a few weeks back.

    My stock Aggressor is getting pretty chewed up so time for a new tire soon.

    Have to say that I have been very happy with the Aggressor as an all around tire. Rolls quite well, is reasonably tough and has pretty awesome grip for the amount of tread it has. Might try a DD aggressor next.
    I have ridden with the DHF 2.5 in the rear and it has mad traction, and mad drag honestly. It's also a bit too close for my tastes to the chain stay.

    That said, I have become a pretty powerful rider over the last 6 months and don't seem to have any problems keeping up (on the climbs!) with some very good riders (not XC Pros however).

    The traction is REALLY good. We have some loose rock, steep extended climbs, and that DHF on the rear really allows you to get away with some bad technique. Like you don't need any momentum, you can just stand on the pedals and it'll motor on up. But it's a slow roller for sure.

    For me, I'd like to try an Aggressor on the rear, but just a bit wider than the narrow 2.3 they currently offer which is what kept me away from it. I might stray from Maxxis for my rear next time. I've always preferred WTB tires actually and if they release the Convict and Breakout in appropriate sizes I'm all over it.

    As far as the front Shorty I'm running, I see no downsides at all. It doesn't roll any slower that I can tell than a 2.5 DHF, yet it has more traction pretty much everywhere and it doesn't lose knobs either (90% loose dry rocky terrain). The width is actually considerably more narrow than a 2.5 DHF but that doesn't hurt it at all.

  27. #1977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    As far as the front Shorty I'm running, I see no downsides at all. It doesn't roll any slower that I can tell than a 2.5 DHF, yet it has more traction pretty much everywhere and it doesn't lose knobs either (90% loose dry rocky terrain). The width is actually considerably more narrow than a 2.5 DHF but that doesn't hurt it at all.
    Is your Shorty a 29x2.5WT model or a 29x2.3?

  28. #1978
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Maxxis has had a 29x2.5 DHF for years. Look at their specs: WT versions are clearly noted as such. The 2.5 DHF isn't.

    Minion DHF | Maxxis Tires USA
    @rondre I stand corrected and apologize for the mis information.

    the 27.5 version looks like wt only in a non DH version.

  29. #1979
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Is your Shorty a 29x2.5WT model or a 29x2.3?
    It is the 2.5WT.

    Literally could not find it anywhere in the US, so order it from Germany and it was super cheap. And got here within like 5 days.

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  30. #1980
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Maxxis has had a 29x2.5 DHF for years. Look at their specs: WT versions are clearly noted as such. The 2.5 DHF isn't.

    http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-468-121-minion-dhf
    Their website has always been full of wrong information. Every 29x2.5 available now is a WT tire.


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  31. #1981
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    I now have 3 rides in on my new 5.5, and I am loving it! I am dialing in my settings, and I noticed that the Switch link doesn't really move that much. Anyone know how much it's supposed to translate? I'm seeing about 3 mm each direction. Is that right? Doesn't seem like that would do that much...
    If white is the "new black", then thanks but I'll stick with the old black...

  32. #1982
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    Wow...interesting that the 2.5 Shorty is visibly more narrow than the 2.5 DHF. Thanks for the heads-up!

  33. #1983
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinrider View Post
    I now have 3 rides in on my new 5.5, and I am loving it! I am dialing in my settings, and I noticed that the Switch link doesn't really move that much. Anyone know how much it's supposed to translate? I'm seeing about 3 mm each direction. Is that right? Doesn't seem like that would do that much...
    Yes, this minimal movement is by design. You won't ever see much more than a few mm's of movement in either direction. If you do, something is very wrong.

  34. #1984
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    You sure about that? Maxxis doesn't list a WT model in a DHF 29'er tire. Mine isn't specifically labeled WT on the sidewall whereas the WT models I had on my Nomad specifically said "WT".


    Yep! I'm sure. Funny, my last bike was a Nomad too.



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  35. #1985
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinrider View Post


    Yep! I'm sure. Funny, my last bike was a Nomad too.



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    Sorry, that wasn't a great pic...


    There...


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  36. #1986
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinrider View Post
    Sorry, that wasn't a great pic...


    There...


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    I would say that looks like the WT model alright. Thanks for the pic, clearly the website doesn't make things any clearer than that.

    I don't think mine has that WT on it. My bike came to me in December. Oh well. The tire is good. The thing grips really well.

  37. #1987
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeder1 View Post
    I would say that looks like the WT model alright. Thanks for the pic, clearly the website doesn't make things any clearer than that.

    I don't think mine has that WT on it. My bike came to me in December. Oh well. The tire is good. The thing grips really well.
    Mine doesn't either. Must have been a rolling change.

  38. #1988
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    I wanted to throw this on here in case others have the same issue. On my 4th ride on my new 5.5 my shock failed. I have the stock Float X Performance level. Basically it got stuck in Firm mode regardless where the selector is at. Took it to my LBS who got in touch with Fox. Fox told them to send it back, it seems there has been some issues with some of the performance level shocks that were produced oversees, some contamination issues. My LBS hooked me up with loaner shock and my shock will be replaced. Other than that this is the most amazing bike I have ever owned and that's coming off a Nomad and a 575 before that.

  39. #1989
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    Just wanted see if anyone wants or know of someone selling a XM481 wheel set. I would like to buy it.

  40. #1990
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Mine doesn't either. Must have been a rolling change.
    Btw, it's debatable whether or not the stock rim should even have the WT spec. Maxxis claims that's designed for a 35mm inner width. The stock XM481's inner width is 30mm...
    If white is the "new black", then thanks but I'll stick with the old black...

  41. #1991
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    Check Pinkbike, I think I saw a set for sale a few days ago.

  42. #1992
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    35-36mm ID Nox wheels. Sorry, forget the model name.
    How do you like the NOX? Do you have any back to back comparison to an alloy rim? Curious to know how much efficiency can be recovered with a carbon set.

  43. #1993
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techspec360 View Post
    How do you like the NOX? Do you have any back to back comparison to an alloy rim? Curious to know how much efficiency can be recovered with a carbon set.
    I don't have an exact back to back comparison, but I ran Nox Farlows (29mm ID) on my last bike, and I'm currently running alloy wheels on my 5.5. I really liked the Farlows, they were light (1600ish grams with DT 350 hubs) and they held up through two race seasons and 10-15 bike park days, plus me riding out a few flat tires on the rim without any issues other than rebuilding the rear wheel once with fresh spokes.

    on the 55, I planned to swap out the alloy wheels with a set of carbon hoops right off the bat, but they feel pretty good so I haven't gotten around to it yet. carbon and alloy feel noticeably different, but I'm not sure one is necessarily better than the other in terms of feel. when I got my first set of carbon wheels (LightBike) several years ago, I felt like they were amazing and I could never go back to alloy. I dunno, maybe the Boost spacing is more than just marketing and has kept aluminum wheels in the game. it's nice not having to sweat about tire pressure as much with the alum wheels.

  44. #1994
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techspec360 View Post
    How do you like the NOX? Do you have any back to back comparison to an alloy rim? Curious to know how much efficiency can be recovered with a carbon set.
    Its all I know so I can't offer much insight.

    I purchased the wheels used when putting this bike together and I'd probably go to around a 30mm ID rear wheel if I had to order a set right now. Not sure really.

    My feeling is that 2.2-2.4 tires are a good match for a 30mm ID wheel whereas 2.5-2.8 work well with 35mm wheels.

  45. #1995
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    Check Pinkbike, I think I saw a set for sale a few days ago.
    They sold the day before I contacted seller.

  46. #1996
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    I don't have an exact back to back comparison, but I ran Nox Farlows (29mm ID) on my last bike, and I'm currently running alloy wheels on my 5.5. I really liked the Farlows, they were light (1600ish grams with DT 350 hubs) and they held up through two race seasons and 10-15 bike park days, plus me riding out a few flat tires on the rim without any issues other than rebuilding the rear wheel once with fresh spokes.

    on the 55, I planned to swap out the alloy wheels with a set of carbon hoops right off the bat, but they feel pretty good so I haven't gotten around to it yet. carbon and alloy feel noticeably different, but I'm not sure one is necessarily better than the other in terms of feel. when I got my first set of carbon wheels (LightBike) several years ago, I felt like they were amazing and I could never go back to alloy. I dunno, maybe the Boost spacing is more than just marketing and has kept aluminum wheels in the game. it's nice not having to sweat about tire pressure as much with the alum wheels.
    NICE! Yeah Farlows sound like a good choice.....and can't top that durablility it sounds like!

  47. #1997
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Its all I know so I can't offer much insight.

    I purchased the wheels used when putting this bike together and I'd probably go to around a 30mm ID rear wheel if I had to order a set right now. Not sure really.

    My feeling is that 2.2-2.4 tires are a good match for a 30mm ID wheel whereas 2.5-2.8 work well with 35mm wheels.
    Makes sense.

  48. #1998
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    Does anyone know what that tube strap is that's on Richie's bike? Or do you know of something similar? My electrical tape solution is functional and all, but...Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-s1200_bt_20170423_untitled_shoot_303.jpg
    If white is the "new black", then thanks but I'll stick with the old black...

  49. #1999
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  50. #2000
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