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  1. #1
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    Yeti ASR Carbon Bottom Bracket

    I can't seem to find any definitive info on the bottom bracket for a 2011 Yeti ASR carbon bottom bracket...does anybody know if it's a bb86 or bb30 or some new standard I haven't heard of?

    The Yeti site says press fit bb 73mm.

    thanks

  2. #2
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    Bb91

  3. #3
    Don't be a sheep
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlownCivic View Post
    Bb91
    Can't be bb91 (bb92) as it says 73mm (wide shell) on the website and bb92 is well, 92mm shell. Probably bb30.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  4. #4
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    Anybody else...I'm surprised Yeti doesn't post it somewhere on their website?

  5. #5
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    Bb91-41b

  6. #6
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    Actually just got my frame in today and it is BB92. The hilarious part is I called Yeti and asked "what BB is it?" The answer I got" Shimano and SRAM both make bottom brackets that work " To which I replied "is it BB30, BB92, what?" answer. "it's none of those." I hung up shaking my head. Called Competitive Cyclist, took them a bit of time but got the BB92 answer that I just confirmed with my calipers.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  7. #7
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    So is the bottom bracket shell 92mm wide (or roughly 91.5)? I wonder if this was a change with the 2011/12 model,

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cool-hand-luke View Post
    So is the bottom bracket shell 92mm wide (or roughly 91.5)? I wonder if this was a change with the 2011/12 model,
    it is 92mm wide. I was thinking that Yeti is cryptic about what BB to use as they did a running change mid-year 2011 and didn't want people who got one or the other complaining.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  9. #9
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    Hey guys-

    This issue always gets so confusing because there are a million different standards. Here are the BB's we recommend and know for sure work:

    SHIMANO: SMBB91-41A
    SRAM: 00.6415.033.030 (standard bearing); 00.6415.033.020 (ceramic bearing)

    Will others work? Maybe. But we know for sure that these work.

    Carry on . . .
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet View Post
    it is 92mm wide. I was thinking that Yeti is cryptic about what BB to use as they did a running change mid-year 2011 and didn't want people who got one or the other complaining.
    Good theory, but false.
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Hey guys-

    This issue always gets so confusing because there are a million different standards. Here are the BB's we recommend and know for sure work:

    SHIMANO: SMBB91-41A
    SRAM: 00.6415.033.030 (standard bearing); 00.6415.033.020 (ceramic bearing)

    Will others work? Maybe. But we know for sure that these work.

    Carry on . . .
    This doesn't even make sense. Cryptic again. Every other manufacturer that uses the BB86/92 standard just says this frame uses a BB86/92 bottom bracket, how fricken hard is that? The way you word your answers would be like a car maker telling buyers " well we know Chevron gas works, will others work, maybe". Also, listing the BB as pressfit 73mm on YOUR website sure doesn't clear things up. I have to return a bottom bracket because of this and honestly I'm tempted to put my new Yeti up for sell on eBay because I'm so turned off by this exchange.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  12. #12
    Int'l Sales Mgr. - Yeti
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet View Post
    This doesn't even make sense. Cryptic again. Every other manufacturer that uses the BB86/92 standard just says this frame uses a BB86/92 bottom bracket, how fricken hard is that? The way you word your answers would be like a car maker telling buyers " well we know Chevron gas works, will others work, maybe". Also, listing the BB as pressfit 73mm on YOUR website sure doesn't clear things up. I have to return a bottom bracket because of this and honestly I'm tempted to put my new Yeti up for sell on eBay because I'm so turned off by this exchange.
    Dear Rivet-

    Very sorry to have frustrated you so much. I was simply trying to help out by giving you the exact part number to ensure that your bike works the way we designed it, and I'm having difficulty understanding how this is 'cryptic' or 'doesn't even make sense'. The truth is, if we just told you it's a BB91/92/86, etc., that wouldn't be very helpful because there are many different BB's that may or may not fit that particular 'standard'.

    We agree that with your polite assertion that the entry on our website regarding the BB being a pressfit 73mm is vague, and we have put in a request with our webmaster to clear this up.

    In the meantime, we apologize for all the inconveniences we've caused you. I make as many mistakes as the next guy, and I'm doing my best with answering your tech questions.

    Have a good day,

    JP
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  13. #13
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    Anyone know what BB the 2012 runs?

    Cheers, Chris

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by casnell View Post
    Anyone know what BB the 2012 runs?

    Cheers, Chris
    It's the same frame as 2011. They actually changed the website because of this thread to show the proper BB. It's a BB91 sometimes referred as BB92 as it is actually 91.5mm

    Yeti Cycles // Ride Driven
    "Do not touch the trim"

  15. #15
    MOO
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    I am running a Rotor 3D Triple crankset with an Enduro ceramic bearing Press Fit Bottom bracket. It spins very well. However I have noticed a few small scratches on the outside of the BB caused by the small chainring bolt area which runs very close to the frame.Has anyone noticed this? There is no play in the crank or BB. I was looking at some other frames(other companies) that also use the same BB and the small chainring is even closer. The Enduro BB went in easily and only a minor tweak set it in place. Just how snug should the cups be when being pressed into the frame?
    Thanks

  16. #16
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    Dear thread participants, I have a Yeti 2009 ASR5 alloy, and my bottom bracket bearings have fallen apart completely. Can you advise me as to which parts exactly I should order to get my bike back into workable state? I would exchange the whole bottom bracket, and possibly also the crank arms since I am at it. Many thanks in advance (I am rather desperate!).

  17. #17
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    I had the same issue when i contacted Yeti about the ASR5 alloy when i couldn't find anything online or in the owners manual. They told me to go to my local bike shop. Ya, I had to step away from the keyboard. That makes want to return the frame. Wanted to strangle someone.

    I plan on using RaceFace Turbine cranks.
    I even gave Yeti the link: Race Face 2013
    Last edited by NightOWL; 02-03-2013 at 01:16 PM.

  18. #18
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    lighten up guys, bb bearings aren't rocket science - confusing these days with all the various standards but not rocket science.

    adriano:

    measure the width of your BB (frame only), it'll be either 68 or 73 mm. Note this.

    is the existing using external or internal bearings? Either way you'll need a tool to unscrew them from the frame. Note that one side (I believe the right) is reverse threaded (righty-loosen lefty-tighty, normally it's righty-tighty ... meaning that clockwise screwing normally tightens the cup).

    Obviously, you need to have previously removed the crankset from the bearings. How to do that is specific to your crankset, and will also likely require a specific tool (Shimano has a preload end-cap that goes in the non-drive side and pinch-bolts on the non-drive crank that actually holds it all together, at least on the hollowtech-ii stuff ... other things will vary).

    Most of the component providers have downloadable manuals in PDF form via their web site that detail assembly (and disassembly is just the reverse normally).

    Park Tool has nice on-line how-to info : Park Tool Co. Park Tool Co.

    Bottom line, you either need to sign on to do the research, get the tools that are necessary, and be patient and methodical OR just take the bike to the LBS.

    If you're handy with mechanical stuff, can follow directions, and open to learning I advocate the former. If you're impatient or don't like to follow instructions then I strongly encourage the latter, because you're probably going to end up there anyway.

  19. #19
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    Thank you, Destroyer of Tires, for your very clear explanation. I will do as recommended and (probably) kindly request further advice along the way.

    I have the ambition to do everything myself - which is not necessarily cheaper than going to the LBS since I break a lot of stuff. The second time I (mostly) get it right though...

    One more question. If I install the SHIMANO SMBB91-41A bottom bracket, will it be compatible with the existing crankset (SRAM, I think - see below)? Or do I need to buy a SRAM bottom bracket that fits this crankset?

    Yeti ASR Carbon Bottom Bracket-2012-12-22-08.31.52.jpg

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    Thank you, Destroyer of Tires, for your very clear explanation. I will do as recommended and (probably) kindly request further advice along the way.

    I have the ambition to do everything myself - which is not necessarily cheaper than going to the LBS since I break a lot of stuff. The second time I (mostly) get it right though...

    One more question. If I install the SHIMANO SMBB91-41A bottom bracket, will it be compatible with the existing crankset (SRAM, I think - see below)? Or do I need to buy a SRAM bottom bracket that fits this crankset?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    look for Sram, plastic anti-dust cap on left side are different between sram and shimano.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by lschen1216 View Post
    look for Sram, plastic anti-dust cap on left side are different between sram and shimano.
    agreed. stick with sram as they're crank/bb interface isn't precisely the same as the shimano.

    easiest way to know for sure is to pull the existing bb out and check it's model number, honestly.

    If the bb is pressed-in then you'll need to carefully tap it out. Using a headset-removal tool may work, there may be a more specific tool that makes it easier. You'll also need a headset press (!) to put the press-fit BB in. If it's press-fit like the later-year bikes that John P quoted for, then then "Team BB92-MTB Stainless" bearings will likely work (see this link). Likely. I can offer no guarantees. ;^(

    If it's a threaded bb then maybe this bearing set would be correct. Again, no warranties from me.

    SRAM has lots of good info on the service-link of their web site, FYI.

    good luck.

  22. #22
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    OK guys, it's threaded and I took off the old bracket effortlessly. Apparently in Switzerland all bike shops are closed on Monday, but I had to go to Basel for a meeting today and, lo-and-behold, veloplus-dot-ch was open and had stocked the bracket suggested by Bear!

    Now it's time to reassemble the whole thing. I will try to clean the shell as much as I can - but are the threads supposed to be glued with Loctite? Also, should the crank axle be greased, or rather not? Thanks again for your help!
    Last edited by adriano; 02-04-2013 at 11:46 AM. Reason: remove commercial link

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    I will try to clean the shell as much as I can - but are the threads supposed to be glued with Loctite? Also, should the crank axle be greased, or rather not? Thanks again for your help!
    Some sort of anti-sieze is good to have in there, not loc-tite really. I'm lazy though and just use an inexpensive grease that is safe around seals and suspension bits. Keeps the aluminum from bonding, keeps crud/water out, makes it easier to remove the bearings when they wear out.

    I believe that the bearing sets with the plastic inserts/washers on the ends are intended for use with the spindle "dry" - you'd have to check the manual to be 100% correct - but I tend to run a very VERY light coat of grease (again, something safe for plastics and seals) on the axle to help inhibit corrosion and to make it easier to slide the axle in and out. Let me say that again, VERY VERY light. I put the grease on the inner faces of the bearings, not on the spindle. Don't want a big mess of grease piling up on one side of the spindle after all.

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