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Thread: Yeti ASR Carbon

  1. #901
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    No one running a chain keeper? Okay, what about a 2017 SID World Cup. I'm on the verge of ordering the boost compatible remote lockout version. Did it lighten your bike up? Does it perform better than prior years?

  2. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigebaker View Post
    No one running a chain keeper? Okay, what about a 2017 SID World Cup. I'm on the verge of ordering the boost compatible remote lockout version. Did it lighten your bike up? Does it perform better than prior years?
    I may be incorrect, but I believe the 2017 SID WC only comes in 100mm flavor.

    Most people here are running 120mm or more. If you want a light 120mm fork, the DT Swiss OPM ODL Race is pretty much the only option.

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  3. #903
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigebaker View Post
    No one running a chain keeper? Okay, what about a 2017 SID World Cup. I'm on the verge of ordering the boost compatible remote lockout version. Did it lighten your bike up? Does it perform better than prior years?
    Yeti ASR Carbon-p1050850-1280x559-.jpg
    Def. running a chain keeper/guard combo even with narrow wide ring and clutch derail. Made mine and hacked up a MRP chain guard (like Hope's). I was having chain drop now and then. No issues now. I've been running a SID with brain installed (100mm) and love it. I did put offset shock bushings in the frame to increase bb height and steepen' the headtube. May not be the set up for everyone, but I happen to love it. I recently went with the Fox step cast and a +3 crown race and really seems to be about the same performance. Fox step cast weight was dead-on published weight.

  4. #904
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    Try a ring with longer teeth long Garbaruk. I have zero (0) chain drops, aside from a crash or two, in a year plus on this ring.

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  5. #905
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    Here's my estimated build for a 2016 ASRc (let me know what I'm missing)

    Fork 2017 SID World Cup 1366
    Racing Ralph 29.2.25 EVO Lightskin 560
    thunderburt 29x2.25 Snakeskin, TL Easy 575
    organge seal 16oz (4 oz) 120
    Truvativ Seat Post t40 225
    Stem Stylo T40 Stem 115
    ENVE Carbon Fiber Mountain Sweep Bar 189
    MRP 1xV3 Guide 45
    Absolute Black Chain Ring (included in crank weight)
    XX Cassette 209
    X0 Type 2 Rear Derailleur 235
    Shifter XX Grip Shift 10sp (should be less with ESI grips) 287
    SRAM PF 30 for MTB 91
    ESI Chunky Grips Black Included in shifter weight
    Williams Aurora SLC Saddle 149
    XX1 cranks 546
    XX Brakes 540
    AM Classic wheels 1430
    Yeti ASRc Frame 1995.81
    Frog Pedals 255
    Headset 112
    Cables 70
    Chain 250
    Seat Clamp 35
    Total 9399.81 20.72303377 lbs

  6. #906
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    I would go wider/fatter on the front wheel. 2.25 on this bike is not enough for its capabilities.

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigebaker View Post
    Here's my estimated build for a 2016 ASRc (let me know what I'm missing)

    Fork 2017 SID World Cup 1366
    Racing Ralph 29.2.25 EVO Lightskin 560
    thunderburt 29x2.25 Snakeskin, TL Easy 575
    organge seal 16oz (4 oz) 120
    Truvativ Seat Post t40 225
    Stem Stylo T40 Stem 115
    ENVE Carbon Fiber Mountain Sweep Bar 189
    MRP 1xV3 Guide 45
    Absolute Black Chain Ring (included in crank weight)
    XX Cassette 209
    X0 Type 2 Rear Derailleur 235
    Shifter XX Grip Shift 10sp (should be less with ESI grips) 287
    SRAM PF 30 for MTB 91
    ESI Chunky Grips Black Included in shifter weight
    Williams Aurora SLC Saddle 149
    XX1 cranks 546
    XX Brakes 540
    AM Classic wheels 1430
    Yeti ASRc Frame 1995.81
    Frog Pedals 255
    Headset 112
    Cables 70
    Chain 250
    Seat Clamp 35
    Total 9399.81 20.72303377 lbs
    Looks like a XC rocket at <21 lbs. I found steering pretty quick with a 120 fork and would like to move up to a 130 just to slacken it a bit, but I'm using mine for trail and AM terrain. You might find at 100 the increased steepnes may be a bit more twitchy.

    Quote Originally Posted by swagner2 View Post
    I would go wider/fatter on the front wheel. 2.25 on this bike is not enough for its capabilities.
    For an XC rocket, maybe not too bad as is. I'm running 29/26 internal rims and I really like them, but also my terrain demands it.
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    ASRc (ret)
    SB95c (ret)
    SB95a (reti)

  8. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by swagner2 View Post
    I would go wider/fatter on the front wheel. 2.25 on this bike is not enough for its capabilities.
    I will reevaluate tires once the season starts. I'm more likely to go to the Aspen 2.25 though, but have considered the Bontrager 2.35 tires. I want a light 2.35 though, and there doesn't seem to be one available.

    I just adjusted the weight above because SRAM is advertising their SID weight without telling everyone it's actually the 27.5 weight. I added 120 grams and now come out right at 21 lbs. Will eventually swap pedals and maybe seat post to get 90 grams back and get it under 21 though.

  9. #909
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    I run a 140/130 pike - depending on terrain. Love it.

  10. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by swagner2 View Post
    I run a 140/130 pike - depending on terrain. Love it.
    I can't run that much fork to race our trails. I'd wash out in any flat corners. Been there, done that, hated it on any flat terrain. I'm sure it's great where you're from or for general trail riding though.

  11. #911
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    Get a 120mm fork, that 100mm is going to suck and make the BB crazy low.

  12. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    Get a 120mm fork, that 100mm is going to suck and make the BB crazy low.
    I just spend a ton of money on 100mm. Isn't there an insert for the rear shock collet to raise the BB? I don't need the travel. This is a race bike for Indiana!

  13. #913
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    The new SID World Cups are limited to 100mm travel.

  14. #914
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    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    The new SID World Cups are limited to 100mm travel.
    I think all Sids are limited to 100mm now. There is really a hole in the market for lightweight, trail worthy 120mm fork. I'm running an rs-1 and love it, but I'm 60kg and bought it on sale.

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  15. #915
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    The F34 is actually great. It's basically the same weight as an F32 120mm, way stiffer, and can have the travel set by the user all the way down to 110mm.

  16. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfishdesign View Post
    I think all Sids are limited to 100mm now. There is really a hole in the market for lightweight, trail worthy 120mm fork. I'm running an rs-1 and love it, but I'm 60kg and bought it on sale.

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    Yep. ~$1900 retail on that fork was waaaay too much for my budget, plus I would need new wheels for predictive steering.

  17. #917
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    The DT Swiss OPM ODL Race 120 is the only stiff-enough, light fork out there.

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  18. #918
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    I don't think BB height is going to be an issue with 100mm. A friend of mine is running a Pivot 429SL with similar BB height and 100mm forks, no problems.

  19. #919
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    The DT Swiss OPM ODL Race 120 is the only stiff-enough, light fork out there.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    It's not a popular choice and not as light as the DT, but the Magura TS8 is very stiff and pretty light @ 3.65 lbs (and the brake mount is PM180, saving a little more weight for those who'd run the larger rotor anyway).

    The move to grease for the fork lube wasn't a super smart move on Magura's part, but it's easy to swap out to bath oil.
    Last edited by albeant; 03-17-2017 at 01:48 PM. Reason: revised fork weight

  20. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by albeant View Post
    It's not a popular choice and not as light as the DT, but the Magura TS8 is very stiff and pretty light @ 3.7 lbs (and the brake mount is PM180, saving a little more weight for those who'd run the larger rotor anyway).

    The move to grease for the fork lube wasn't a super smart move on Magura's part, but it's easy to swap out to bath oil.
    I wonder if the grease changes the behavior of the fork dramatically when it gets really heated up on long descents.

    It would go from a semi-solid state to oil, I'd imagine. I wonder why they chose to do that?

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  21. #921
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    Hard to know why, except for their notoriously weepy wipers, along, perhaps with a desire to save weight, since very little grease is used. I'm not sure the lowers ever heat up enough to change the consistency of the grease, but I am sure that the grease requires more frequent maintenance to maintain smoothness.

    My TS8 had gotten really gummy after a couple of weeks on the CT, so when I got home from that trip I installed Fox Gold-compatible wipers and Gold bath oil, and they made a dramatic difference in both smoothness and maintenance intervals.

  22. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigebaker View Post
    I just spend a ton of money on 100mm. Isn't there an insert for the rear shock collet to raise the BB? I don't need the travel. This is a race bike for Indiana!
    search my post in this thread. I use offset bushing in front and rear eye of shock and run 100mm fox with Cane Creek +3 crown race. BB height is 12.87" with Schwalbe 2.1 tires. You have to be careful with the rear eyelet and make sure super tight and no grease on ends as it will tend to rotate and negate all that you had gained. I have about 70.5 degree on head tube angle. I went with the 51mm offset.

  23. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyrdrms View Post
    search my post in this thread. I use offset bushing in front and rear eye of shock and run 100mm fox with Cane Creek +3 crown race. BB height is 12.87" with Schwalbe 2.1 tires. You have to be careful with the rear eyelet and make sure super tight and no grease on ends as it will tend to rotate and negate all that you had gained. I have about 70.5 degree on head tube angle. I went with the 51mm offset.
    So, it's desirable to increase the HTA to 70.5? It seems I would want to maintain as close to possible the 69 degree angle it was designed with. I'm not sure what the 100mm shock does to that though. I'll search for your thread and see if it addresses that.

  24. #924
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    Keep the bike at the factory HA using a 120mm fork with the proper offset. The benefit of the ASRc is the fact that the bike pedals and climbs so effeciently with the 120mm setup and it makes the bike more capable when descending which is where you'll put time into other competitors if your racing.
    16' SB6c Trail Light
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  25. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyrdrms View Post
    Yes, I have it right. Eye to Eye measurement is now 167mm instead of 165. The effect depends upon the suspension ratio of shock travel vs rear wheel travel. 102/38.1=2.677. So for every 1mm of eye to eye change you will get 2.677mm change at the rear wheel, thus jacking up the bb and increasing the headtube/seatube angle. This may seem like a small change but it was needed since I am running 100mm fork. Of course you could go with larger tires and taller knobs but that increases tire weight and not something I want to do on a XC race machine.
    Where did you get the bushings to do this?

  26. #926
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    Here's mine:
    http://i.imgur.com/m6oKPeT.jpg (Not sure why the embed isn't working)
    Haven't weighed it yet, but it's lighter than my Epic was.

  27. #927
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    Yeti ASR Carbon-434.jpg
    My new ASR-TURQ.
    Fox Factory Talas 95-120
    New XT 1 X 11
    Stans Arch Ex

    Got my Giant seatpost and handlebars on while deciding on what to put on this beaut.

    Coming from an AnthemX29 this bike is very different and feels almost like a hardtail when standing pedaling. It's much faster going up or down standing or sitting. I've had 3 rides so far on tar, gravel and single track and love this bike.

  28. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonytourist View Post
    Here's mine:
    http://i.imgur.com/m6oKPeT.jpg (Not sure why the embed isn't working)
    Haven't weighed it yet, but it's lighter than my Epic was.
    Care to share a list of parts?

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  29. #929
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    Sure, let me see if I remember them all:
    Yeti ASR Carbon - size medium 2016
    DT Swiss OPM ODL Race - with lightweight remote
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Fox Transfer 5" dropper post with Fox remote - might swap for Wolftooth
    SRAM XX1 Eagle
    Raceface Next SL crankset with 36T AB Oval
    Raceface BB
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.2
    Nox Composite Skylines laced to Carbon Ti hubs with CX Rays - built by Ergott
    Sram Level Ultimates with SRAM 2 piece rotors (this was my major dilemma as I had thought about R1 Racing, but 2 of my friends with Yetis run them and I wanted to try something different)
    Berk Lupina saddle
    Kalloy Uno 80mm - Stealth from Fairwheel - might swap for Extralite stem just for bling
    Extralite Hyperbar 750mm
    Extralite Black Lock axles
    Alligator I Link Minis for shifter, dropper, remote lockout
    ESI Extra Chunky - I have some lighter foam grips but couldn't be bothered to glue them on when I was assembling the bike.
    Crank Brothers 11 Ti pedals
    Carbon Ti seatpost collar

  30. #930
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    Picked up my 2017 ASR couple weeks ago after months of reading this thread. Stock still, minus ESIs and pedals. Upgrades coming - saddle, seatpost, cockpit w/ computer mount and some fit changes. Only a few rides so far.

    Yeti ASR Carbon-img_2899.jpg


    @Pierre_ZA - which seatpost cage is that? Marathon coming up and was going to put a bottle on the seatpost, so I can have two bottles with a tool keg on the bottom of the downtube.

  31. #931
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    It's a Lezyne, very sturdy.

  32. #932
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigebaker View Post
    Where did you get the bushings to do this?
    https://www.offsetbushings.com/

  33. #933
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    Hey all. I recently purchased an XL frame and am building it up. Does anybody know the maximum length seatpost for the XL frame? I want to get 150 to 170mm dropper post. I'm 6'3" (don't know my inseam but it's probably around 33 or 34 because I get 32 length Jeans.) and I really like the post slammed as far as possible on descents when I'm not racing so I'd prefer the 170mm travel posts. If the post sticks out halfway then it's worthless and I should get the 150mm.

    I don't have my frame around (yay for college) to measure the seat tube right now and I wanted to get the post so when I go home I can build the bike up that weekend.

  34. #934
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    I'd email Yeti and ask them about the minimum amount of seatpost you'd need inserted.
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  35. #935
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    Just finished my asrc build, forgot to raise the dropper and straighten the crank for photo

    Came in at 23.6 lbs ready to ride with pedals/exo tires/sealent/dropper etc...

    I need more time on it to really get a feel for it, but first race this weekend so we will see how it goes. Only thing I regret is going with ryde trace rims...They are giving me tubeless problems, should have built up with crests or dropped some coin on some light bike rims.

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  36. #936
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    That color looks so nice! Nice build!!

  37. #937
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    @dfishdesign: I found some tyres ridiculously tight on the Ryde XC rims - breaking tyre levers tight! Those wheels are now on the commuter with some loose Schwalbe S-Ones.

    On the other end of the wheel/tyre spectrum I just Enduro'd my ASRc with a Magic Mary up front and a Nobby Nic 2.35 on the back (LB 30mm internal rims) The NN seems to fit, just! I'd say perhaps 3mm clearance each side. Will update here once I've caked it in mud!

    On the SID thing I just build a Niner Air 9 RDO - on which I put 120mm SID RCT3's - they're light: just under 1600g with a light axle, and seem pretty stiff to me. Would be great on a weight conscious ASRc build. On the subject of SID's, XX (inc. Worldcups) are not as light as claimed. I turned down a set of 100mm XX WC X-loc's because they were 1660g! [to be fair the non-remote ones are probably a good bit lighter, but I would be highly suspicious of the 1300g-ish claimed, I think that was back in 26" QR days]
    Every tool is special.

  38. #938
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    I got myself a ASR Turq frame recently and built it up with parts from my old bike. I'm looking for a light build without going super crazy. So far it's coming in at 24.85lbs which is quite a bit more than most I see, and I was wondering if there are any area's I'm missing?

    Currently the spec is...
    Large turq frame (turquoise)
    Fox Float DPS shock and Reba RL fork without remote lockout (1570g without axel incl. crown race and star nut)
    XTR shifter and derailleur 1x11
    LB carbon rims on DT Swiss 350 hubs, but I have a new LB wheelset coming with DT 240 hubs which will be 1400g, saving about 250g
    Race Face Next SL handlebars
    Race Face Turbine 50mm stem
    ODI grip, will be putting ESI's on saving 50g
    Sram XX1 Quarq cranks with 32t 685g including chainring
    Xtr m988 Trail brakes - I have some XTR M9000 race brakes coming which will save 100g
    Quaxar Iris rotors 180mm front 160mm rear (160g combined)
    Marzocchi dropper post (same as Fox transfer)
    Ikon 2.35 front, 2.25 rear, EXO, TR. I have some Racing Ralph's I'm going to try at 615g ea which will save 170g
    Carbon saddle 105g
    Sram X01 Cassette
    XTR pedals but changing to Xpedo saving 40g

    With the changes that are coming it should bring it down to 23.5lbs with pedals. I'm happy with that but I've seen some get their ASR's down to 22.5lbs even including a RS-1 fork and I don't see how? Perhaps the weights are excluding pedals?

  39. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by manamana View Post
    I got myself a ASR Turq frame recently and built it up with parts from my old bike. I'm looking for a light build without going super crazy. So far it's coming in at 24.85lbs which is quite a bit more than most I see, and I was wondering if there are any area's I'm missing?

    Currently the spec is...
    Large turq frame (turquoise)
    Fox Float DPS shock and Reba RL fork without remote lockout (1570g without axel incl. crown race and star nut)
    XTR shifter and derailleur 1x11
    LB carbon rims on DT Swiss 350 hubs, but I have a new LB wheelset coming with DT 240 hubs which will be 1400g, saving about 250g
    Race Face Next SL handlebars
    Race Face Turbine 50mm stem
    ODI grip, will be putting ESI's on saving 50g
    Sram XX1 Quarq cranks with 32t 685g including chainring
    Xtr m988 Trail brakes - I have some XTR M9000 race brakes coming which will save 100g
    Quaxar Iris rotors 180mm front 160mm rear (160g combined)
    Marzocchi dropper post (same as Fox transfer)
    Ikon 2.35 front, 2.25 rear, EXO, TR. I have some Racing Ralph's I'm going to try at 615g ea which will save 170g
    Carbon saddle 105g
    Sram X01 Cassette
    XTR pedals but changing to Xpedo saving 40g

    With the changes that are coming it should bring it down to 23.5lbs with pedals. I'm happy with that but I've seen some get their ASR's down to 22.5lbs even including a RS-1 fork and I don't see how? Perhaps the weights are excluding pedals?
    Just an example:

    My cranks are 120g+ lighter than yours.

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  40. #940
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    @manamana: Plenty of complete fantasy weights on this thread!!
    Yours seems quite reasonable for the bits you have on it.

    Some recent weigh-ins for reference: My XTR Race's were 400g cut to length inc. pads (not rotors). XX1 cranks are heavy enough, mine came in at 559g with an AB 32T direct-mount oval and all the bits to mount in a CK PF30 BB, compared to my Next SL's which were 445g with the same bits. Ritchey WCS pedals are 300g. Sram X01 (XG1195) 10-42 is 263g.

    Personally I prefer my ASR setup a bit "burlier". Even when it was briefly at 10kg I never found it a razor sharp XC weapon. My old ARCc and my current Air 9 RDO hardtails - while only slightly lighter - are far more capable, efficient climbers. My ASR is now closer to 11.5kg, but the beauty of it is that it's a proper mountain bike: I can ride it all day with a smile on my face.
    Every tool is special.

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by llatsni View Post
    @manamana: Plenty of complete fantasy weights on this thread!!
    Yours seems quite reasonable for the bits you have on it.
    "For the bits you have on it"

    Well, that's the thing. If other people have parts that are known to be lighter, it stands to reason that the cumulative weight of a bike made from those parts would be lighter.

    Look at KWalkers bike. Every part on his bike is lighter.

    But, I've also gone heavier over time with some parts. Tires, specifically.



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  42. #942
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    My "Beti" ASRc

    I just built up my “weight weenie on a budget” Yeti ASR Carbon build. Here are some of the highlights:

    2016 Yeti Beti ASR frame turned gender neutral w/ 3M gloss black vinyl
    2016 Fox 32 Float 120 FIT4
    Nox Skyline 240s 28h Sapim CX-Ray wheels @ 1353g (these cost more than what I paid for the frame…)
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph Snakeskin TLE 2.35 front, Schwalbe Thunder Burt Snakeskin TLE 2.25 rear
    Shimano XTR shifter + RD (w/ Goatlink 11) w/ SRAM X01 10-42 cassette and XX1 Cranks w/ One Up 30t oval (I may upsize to a 32t at some point)
    KS Lev Integra (wanted a Fall Line but couldn’t pass up a deal on the KS)
    Not weight weenie stuff but things I can’t ride without: Koobi Xenon saddle, Ergon GS1 grips, Shimano XTR SPDs

    The bike comes in at under 24 lbs ride ready (pedals, waterbottle cage, Garmin mount, etc.). Saddle bag not included.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti ASR Carbon-33c50c27-5815-45f7-bff5-c68410f486b2.jpg  


  43. #943
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    Yeti ASR Carbon-img_3837.jpg

    Just built this up over the weekend. Can't wait to get it out.

    2017 ASR Turq
    XX1 Eagle
    Sram Guide Ultimate Brakes 180 front, 160 rear
    Zipp SL Stem
    Truvativ Descendant 750mm handlebar
    Easton EC90 Seatpost
    Specialized Phenom Comp Saddle
    Racing Ralph tires 2.35 front, 2.25 rear
    Specialized Control SL Wheels
    Fox Float 32 w/remote - stickers from Slik Graphics

    23.6 pounds including pedals and bottle cage. I was hoping for a little lighter but I chose durability or lower cost over lightness on a few items so I'm pretty happy.

  44. #944
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    anyone know if an ikon 2.35 fits in the rear? what are you guys running for maxxis rear tires?

  45. #945
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    ...
    Last edited by manamana; 04-11-2017 at 11:32 PM. Reason: No longer relevant

  46. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonytourist View Post
    Sure, let me see if I remember them all:
    Yeti ASR Carbon - size medium 2016
    DT Swiss OPM ODL Race - with lightweight remote
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Fox Transfer 5" dropper post with Fox remote - might swap for Wolftooth
    SRAM XX1 Eagle
    Raceface Next SL crankset with 36T AB Oval
    Raceface BB
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.2
    Nox Composite Skylines laced to Carbon Ti hubs with CX Rays - built by Ergott
    Sram Level Ultimates with SRAM 2 piece rotors (this was my major dilemma as I had thought about R1 Racing, but 2 of my friends with Yetis run them and I wanted to try something different)
    Berk Lupina saddle
    Kalloy Uno 80mm - Stealth from Fairwheel - might swap for Extralite stem just for bling
    Extralite Hyperbar 750mm
    Extralite Black Lock axles
    Alligator I Link Minis for shifter, dropper, remote lockout
    ESI Extra Chunky - I have some lighter foam grips but couldn't be bothered to glue them on when I was assembling the bike.
    Crank Brothers 11 Ti pedals
    Carbon Ti seatpost collar
    = 21.25 LBS
    Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

  47. #947
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    Looks great!

    Why the Beti? Just curious. Vinyl wrap looks great, that must have been a pain wrapping the frame...

  48. #948
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    I'm guessing the Beti was available in his size from CC/BC, unlike the "male" version.

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  49. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I'm guessing the Beti was available in his size from CC/BC, unlike the "male" version.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Yep, Le Duke is right. The regular ASRc was no longer available in M size and I couldn’t pass up the deal on the Beti compared to a 2017 Turq. I’m a dude so the Corral Red “Beti” references on the frame had to go. My original plan was to go with a custom sticker designer who ended up not working out, so I ventured into the DIY vinyl approach. Even though the frame is a nude carbon w/ bare "weave" showing, the gloss/wet finish makes it look black, and the 3M gloss black is a really good match. I cut out a one piece shape to cover the top tube so the application was pretty straight forward. I did get a bit of wrinkling since I wasn’t careful with all of the air bubbles around some of the curves, but you can’t really see it unless you look closely.

    Yeti ASR Carbon-70726edf-e56c-4b75-9ee7-431e552eefe7.jpg

  50. #950
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    I'd do the same thing. It's an incredible deal right now.

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  51. #951
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I'd do the same thing. It's an incredible deal right now.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    x2

    i paid $2000 for one of the "male" asrc's late last year when they were on closeout. size M and L went quick but the beti never sold out. at the price they are being sold for now there is simply no other xc frame that can even remotely compare. the beti is literally the best value in the world for a high end xc frame at 15 and change

  52. #952
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    Quote Originally Posted by racebum View Post
    x2

    i paid $2000 for one of the "male" asrc's late last year when they were on closeout. size M and L went quick but the beti never sold out. at the price they are being sold for now there is simply no other xc frame that can even remotely compare. the beti is literally the best value in the world for a high end xc frame at 15 and change
    Hell, I thought I was getting a steal at 10% off and 13% cash back.

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  53. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    Yep, Le Duke is right. The regular ASRc was no longer available in M size and I couldn’t pass up the deal on the Beti compared to a 2017 Turq. I’m a dude so the Corral Red “Beti” references on the frame had to go. My original plan was to go with a custom sticker designer who ended up not working out, so I ventured into the DIY vinyl approach. Even though the frame is a nude carbon w/ bare "weave" showing, the gloss/wet finish makes it look black, and the 3M gloss black is a really good match. I cut out a one piece shape to cover the top tube so the application was pretty straight forward. I did get a bit of wrinkling since I wasn’t careful with all of the air bubbles around some of the curves, but you can’t really see it unless you look closely.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nicely done. Looks awesome

    Did you mess with the shock tune? I've heard the Beti had a special tune. If not, how's the ride?

  54. #954
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrTWT View Post
    Nicely done. Looks awesome

    Did you mess with the shock tune? I've heard the Beti had a special tune. If not, how's the ride?
    I'm reading the same about Beti's tune. Wonder what the diff is between the "male" DPS.

    edit: Found the following on mtbr and other interview when Beti launched: "...perhaps most importantly, tuning the rear suspension for better performance. The rear shocks are valved for lighter riders – they have less rebound damping so the suspension doesn’t pack-up when the going gets rough. This results in a bike that is more efficient going uphill and more controlled when descending."

    Yeti rep on mtbr: Difference in "Beti" shock tuning?

  55. #955
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    My ASRC is in for warranty :-(

    Main pivot started flapping around in the frame - went from perfect to awful in the space of one ride. There really wasn't very many miles on it and I'm meticulous with my bikes, just unlucky I guess.

    I'm worried now about how long it will take to sort out, with this talk of no more medium's available!
    Every tool is special.

  56. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by llatsni View Post
    My ASRC is in for warranty :-(

    Main pivot started flapping around in the frame - went from perfect to awful in the space of one ride. There really wasn't very many miles on it and I'm meticulous with my bikes, just unlucky I guess.

    I'm worried now about how long it will take to sort out, with this talk of no more medium's available!
    "No more mediums" is about the CC/BC sale on 15/16 frames.

    I'm guessing the 2017 frames are in stock.

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  57. #957
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    Ah, yes, indeed! The panic blurred my vision.
    Every tool is special.

  58. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by danK View Post
    I'm reading the same about Beti's tune. Wonder what the diff is between the "male" DPS.

    edit: Found the following on mtbr and other interview when Beti launched: "...perhaps most importantly, tuning the rear suspension for better performance. The rear shocks are valved for lighter riders – they have less rebound damping so the suspension doesn’t pack-up when the going gets rough. This results in a bike that is more efficient going uphill and more controlled when descending."

    Yeti rep on mtbr: Difference in "Beti" shock tuning?
    The 4 char Fox product code on my Beti Float DPS is "C6XZ", which according to Fox's website lookup is:
    2017 Factory Series FLOAT
    2017, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj SV, Yeti, ASR-C, 6.5, 1.5, CM, RM, Climb F, Gold Logo

    I could have sworn when I looked it up a few weeks ago, it actually mentioned "Beti" and "Red Logo", so this is really strange. But I guess this is what it says now.

    When I asked CC/BC about whether my rear shock would have a Beti specific tune, they said it would NOT and that it was the standard shock/tune that came with non-Beti ASRs (albeit with the red Fox logo). In the Beti description above regarding "less rebound damping", in my opinion my shock has almost too much rebound damping for my needs (I weigh 150lbs w/ shock psi at around 140). I'm running like 1 or 2 clicks of rebound damping from the fastest setting. In any case, I'm pretty happy with the tune so far and have to say that it does what everyone in this thread has been harping on for years, which is that it climbs efficiently (even with the shock fully open) and has enough give to take the edge off bumps when you're going downhill. Coming off an older gen 575, I was worried that the modified single pivot was going to have a mid-stroke wallow that would make climbing feel sluggish but I'm happy to report that the rear has a firm/supportive feel. My other ride is a Ripley and I was worried that I'd be giving up a bit of climbing efficiency going from the DW-link to a single pivot, but I don't think that's the case. Then again, my ASR is built up with weight weenie wheels/tires so it's probably not a fair comparison.

    TL;DR - Get the Beti ASRc and hide the red logos!

  59. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by llatsni View Post
    My ASRC is in for warranty :-(

    Main pivot started flapping around in the frame - went from perfect to awful in the space of one ride. There really wasn't very many miles on it and I'm meticulous with my bikes, just unlucky I guess.

    I'm worried now about how long it will take to sort out, with this talk of no more medium's available!
    Same happened to mine. At least Yeti are good with warranty.
    My ARC cracked where the seatpost inserts and was replaced and then the ASR.
    ASR-C

    ARC Carbon- 9kg of awesomeness- reitred
    SB-95C- play bike- retired

  60. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by danK View Post
    I'm reading the same about Beti's tune. Wonder what the diff is between the "male" DPS.

    edit: Found the following on mtbr and other interview when Beti launched: "...perhaps most importantly, tuning the rear suspension for better performance. The rear shocks are valved for lighter riders – they have less rebound damping so the suspension doesn’t pack-up when the going gets rough. This results in a bike that is more efficient going uphill and more controlled when descending."

    Yeti rep on mtbr: Difference in "Beti" shock tuning?
    I'd believe the lighter rebound tune, but would question the lighter compression tune. Compression tune is based on shock compression velocity, not weight--it's more about how aggressive you ride; the more aggressively you slam into stuff at speed, the firmer it should be. Rebound is based on spring rate, which is affected by weight. Need less rebound damping for lighter spring rate, and generally clicks at the far end of the click range tend to have bigger jumps between clicks (best to have your ideal setting in the middle of the range). But then again, women have less brawn and might need more help with coping with the smaller bumps, avoiding the harder hits, so running things softer on the compression side makes sense. That would compromise how much the suspension inspires confidence though. Trade-offs...

    I suppose if you were more of a marathon rider, the softer tune is more suitable, but if you were doing a lot of shorter duration rides under 2 hours, the firmer compression tune would be racier and net you better results.

  61. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3bas View Post
    Same happened to mine. At least Yeti are good with warranty.
    My ARC cracked where the seatpost inserts and was replaced and then the ASR.
    Good to know...seems it's one bike a factory warranty is a prerequisite.

  62. #962
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Hell, I thought I was getting a steal at 10% off and 13% cash back.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    You should get a commission from Yeti cuz your posts are swaying me away from a DW bike or 2016 Fuel EX 29er toward the on sale Beti ASRc in a large. It's just that so-called lighter tune on the DPS that has my 160 pound XC racer concerned (not the Beti which I have access to decal shop). It'd be a win-win cuz my non-boost wheels fit, there is a sale at Art's on KsLev droppers and everything swaps from existing bike. Plus activejunky cash back and warranty!

  63. #963
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    Yeti are replacing it with a 2017 frame :-)
    Every tool is special.

  64. #964
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Plus activejunky cash back and warranty!
    Sadly, the CC/BC AJ fine print now says Yeti Cycles are excluded from cash back.

  65. #965
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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    Sadly, the CC/BC AJ fine print now says Yeti Cycles are excluded from cash back.
    Ugh, thanks for the info. Too bad.

  66. #966
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    You should get a commission from Yeti cuz your posts are swaying me away from a DW bike or 2016 Fuel EX 29er toward the on sale Beti ASRc in a large. It's just that so-called lighter tune on the DPS that has my 160 pound XC racer concerned (not the Beti which I have access to decal shop). It'd be a win-win cuz my non-boost wheels fit, there is a sale at Art's on KsLev droppers and everything swaps from existing bike. Plus activejunky cash back and warranty!
    Oh, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 2016 Fuel EX if I could find one. That's might Goldilocks bike.

    Only 120mm bike I've ridden that ACTUALLY pedals like a dedicated XC bike. And, I wouldn't hestitate to race one. That said, I haven't ridden the 2017 (120mm) Spark yet. Only the Spark RC. But, given that they share the same suspension design, I'm guessing it pedals extremely well.
    Death from Below.

  67. #967
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Oh, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 2016 Fuel EX if I could find one. That's might Goldilocks bike.

    Only 120mm bike I've ridden that ACTUALLY pedals like a dedicated XC bike. And, I wouldn't hestitate to race one. That said, I haven't ridden the 2017 (120mm) Spark yet. Only the Spark RC. But, given that they share the same suspension design, I'm guessing it pedals extremely well.
    Thanks! *scratches another bike off the list...

  68. #968
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Thanks! *scratches another bike off the list...
    What bike got scratched off the list?

    To clarify, I haven't ridden the 120mm Spark. Just the 100mm Spark. And it pedaled extremely well. So, I'm extrapolating here, and hoping/guessing that it does what the 100mm version does, with an extra 20mm.
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  69. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    What bike got scratched off the list?

    To clarify, I haven't ridden the 120mm Spark. Just the 100mm Spark. And it pedaled extremely well. So, I'm extrapolating here, and hoping/guessing that it does what the 100mm version does, with an extra 20mm.
    Two remain (and thus makes it a thread hijack so it'll be my last comment on here respectfully): 2017 Spark and 2016 Fuel EX 29. Leaving now for test rides and playing with fit. I'm always in betweener.

  70. #970
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    You should get a commission from Yeti cuz your posts are swaying me away from a DW bike or 2016 Fuel EX 29er toward the on sale Beti ASRc in a large. It's just that so-called lighter tune on the DPS that has my 160 pound XC racer concerned (not the Beti which I have access to decal shop). It'd be a win-win cuz my non-boost wheels fit, there is a sale at Art's on KsLev droppers and everything swaps from existing bike. Plus activejunky cash back and warranty!
    A common misconception about "lighter/softer" tunes is that they're plusher and compliant/comfortable. This is a bad way of seeing it. What the tune represents is a sweet spot of bump frequencies targeted--think of a certain wavelength, like small sharp bumps, medium rounded bumps, and big 45 degree angled bumps. Perhaps one might is more concerned about small roots and slightly rounded and weathered rocks of the East coast, and perhaps another is more concerned with the jagged square edges of the SW deserts. You'd need 2 different tunes here, no matter how aggressively you ride, hence why susp tuners ask such questions (where you ride, how aggressively, and how much you weigh).

    From a suspension tuner's point of view, what they're after is countering the spikiness of the suspension, trying to keep things calm and flattening out all the high amplitude bumps, so the rider can be more relaxed. The tuner will look at these bumps in terms of "inches per second" (velocity), realizing that since a suspension can only recover so quickly from bumps, ready to respond to a new one, and taking into consideration that the bike is a system and that some could be left to the tires, and the flexibility of other parts of the bike (and the rider). Focusing damping on chatter isn't so beneficial as it is to have it address the stuff that can cause a crash, or enabling you to ride faster by keeping the suspension higher in its travel without wasting too much travel for any particular kind of hit (the wallow of plushness).

    It's sort of like noise canceling tech on a set of headphones. Counter the incoming sound waves with equal frequency and amplitude in the opposing phase, focusing on a frequency range considered most undesirable and allowing some through like voices. A med compression tune would be tuned a certain shaft velocity, such as 25 inches per second, as opposed to maybe 35 inches per second for a firmer tune. Note that stroke length affects this velocity, hence why people reference leverage ratio when it comes to shock tuning. To a bike with 2.5" stroke, 25 inches per second is a pretty light hit. To a bike with a 1.5" stroke, it's a medium-harder hit. Rider inputs tend to be around 5 inches per second, again affected by stroke length, and covered by the LSC, which is adjustable.

    When someone says run suspension in "open mode", the suspension isn't actually open. It's at its base tune, as intended by the OE. You do not want actual open damping. Damping is good, and is what keeps the suspension tracking rather than bouncing. The bouncing is what causes the tire to come off the ground, and making the suspension collapse more than it has to is inefficient. One brand may intend for you to ride it in open mode, while another may intend for you to ride it in trail mode for the majority of the time. Don't assume that because one OE says this, that it applies to all others. Listen to the recommendations and find what works for you and your terrain. That said, the Beti tune was made with women in mind. If you have a girly body build it can work for you. A man who's 160 lbs without a strong upper body and core could very well be a good match. A man's more likely to be aggressive and brawny, but if the suspension doesn't have enough support in it, the guy will hold back and be more strategic like a woman.

    You have to realize what kind of bike you're getting here. Yeti's race-bred slogan clearly states it. A Yeti's not made for the masses like other brands, for people seeking comfort out of their suspension. A Trek Fuel EX is sort-of made for the masses, at least moreso than Yeti. More like making storied high performance more accessible and friendly to the masses, with their exclusive tech like Re:Aktiv is a huge draw, especially considering how each part is made to work with each other, including the stiffness tuning of the frame. Yeti just has their engineering more focused on fewer models, rather than spread out over dozens. The '16 Fuel EX was a great XC bike that you could comfortably ride miles upon miles on, being efficient enough to set PRs and having stiffness that encourages light and fast parts, while the '17 is closer to an AM/Enduro bike. Looking at the ASRc leverage curve, nothing else fits besides the medium compression tune, so I seriously have doubt in the Yeti rep's post about it having lighter compression tune. I'd confidently bet both shock versions have the medium compression tune. The other Beti owner getting a non-Beti tuned shock has the same problem as me, only running 2 clicks of rebound from full open (on my SB5c), that I wish I got a lighter rebound tune, but not a lighter compression tune. I'm drawn to the Fuel EX 29 too, honestly, but I had a lot of parts laying around and Yeti frames were at a price I couldn't pass up.

    Edit: found the ASRc Beti's Fox code C2BL.

    2016 Factory Series FLOAT
    2016, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj SV, Yeti, ASR-C BETI, 6.500, 1.500, CM, RM, Climb F, 206C/206C Logo


    The 4 char Fox product code on my Beti Float DPS is "C6XZ", which according to Fox's website lookup is:
    2017 Factory Series FLOAT
    2017, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj SV, Yeti, ASR-C, 6.5, 1.5, CM, RM, Climb F, Gold Logo

  71. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    Edit: found the ASRc Beti's Fox code C2BL.

    2016 Factory Series FLOAT
    2016, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj SV, Yeti, ASR-C BETI, 6.500, 1.500, CM, RM, Climb F, 206C/206C Logo
    So how is that tune you found same or diff than C6XZ?
    I'm a 160 pound xc racer with a freakishly strong upper body and core.

  72. #972
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    Fox's website doesn't indicate that there's any diff in tune at all. Can prob make your decision off that, assuming that it'll be no diff besides perhaps a diff color logo. No real risk of getting a girly tune, considering burndtjamb said CC's Betis have the regular tune.

    Guess I just felt like dumping some random susp mumbo jumbo out for the heck of it. Didn't feel like editing it out after I found the code and discovered that Fox's website said there wasn't anything diff, in case it helped anyone understand susp better.

  73. #973
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3bas View Post
    Same happened to mine. At least Yeti are good with warranty.
    My ARC cracked where the seatpost inserts and was replaced and then the ASR.
    Would you be able to share pictures of the damage and/or can you describe the problem in more detail? For example, was it related to the axle threads on the drive side swingarm getting stripped, or the spacer/bearings within the seat stay getting loose, etc.?

    I've got less than 100 miles on my ASR and am already experiencing a small amount of play w/ the rear suspension pivots - though I think my play is coming from the lower shock mount assembly.

  74. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    Would you be able to share pictures of the damage and/or can you describe the problem in more detail?
    Nothing really to photograph: the drive side bearing became loose in its "cup" - the carbon housing of the lower seat-tube. It was oversized by about a few 10ths of a millimetre all-round, which is enough to allow a few mm of play at the rear axle. Felt like the wheel had a gigantic buckle. Felt like it happened in the space of one ride. The main pivot had been greased and torqued a few km from new (bike was born July 2016), and again later in the year. There were no creaks or knocks to warn me... so I think I'll be checking the replacement far more often!
    Every tool is special.

  75. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    Would you be able to share pictures of the damage and/or can you describe the problem in more detail? For example, was it related to the axle threads on the drive side swingarm getting stripped, or the spacer/bearings within the seat stay getting loose, etc.?

    I've got less than 100 miles on my ASR and am already experiencing a small amount of play w/ the rear suspension pivots - though I think my play is coming from the lower shock mount assembly.
    The shock bolts on some frames are/were very slightly too long. Many/most Yeti dealers have some very thin washers that they will put on the shock bolts to take up that slack. Mine came like that and I noticed it immediately. The local shop did it in about 2min, for free.
    Death from Below.

  76. #976
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    Quote Originally Posted by llatsni View Post
    Nothing really to photograph: the drive side bearing became loose in its "cup" - the carbon housing of the lower seat-tube. It was oversized by about a few 10ths of a millimetre all-round, which is enough to allow a few mm of play at the rear axle. Felt like the wheel had a gigantic buckle. Felt like it happened in the space of one ride. The main pivot had been greased and torqued a few km from new (bike was born July 2016), and again later in the year. There were no creaks or knocks to warn me... so I think I'll be checking the replacement far more often!
    Good to know... Thanks for the info.

    Did Yeti or your dealer indicate whether it was a manufacturing defect or if there was anything you could have done to prevent the problem from happening, e.g. more frequent torque checks of the 10mm main pivot?

  77. #977
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    No. Neither. I genuinely think it was just bad luck. These things happen. I imagine it might have been delayed at least by making sure the pivot was always up to torque - but that's just speculating.
    Every tool is special.

  78. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    The shock bolts on some frames are/were very slightly too long. Many/most Yeti dealers have some very thin washers that they will put on the shock bolts to take up that slack. Mine came like that and I noticed it immediately. The local shop did it in about 2min, for free.
    Thanks Le Duke. Any idea if they added the same washers referenced as parts # 30 and #31 shown on p. 28-30 of the ASR manual? http://assets.yeticycles.com/static/...18da960170.pdf

    Also, I'm experiencing the play vertically, not side to side, so it's not clear if this would actually help my case.

    And finally, my lower shock mount spacers were creaking like crazy and when I removed them for inspection, I noticed that one of them had an elliptical ring around the inside surface. I don't know if this is contributing to the play but the creaking went away after I greased the crap out of the spacers.

    Yeti ASR Carbon-img_6226.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    Thanks Le Duke. Any idea if they added the same washers referenced as parts # 30 and #31 shown on p. 28-30 of the ASR manual? http://assets.yeticycles.com/static/...18da960170.pdf

    Also, I'm experiencing the play vertically, not side to side, so it's not clear if this would actually help my case.

    And finally, my lower shock mount spacers were creaking like crazy and when I removed them for inspection, I noticed that one of them had an elliptical ring around the inside surface. I don't know if this is contributing to the play but the creaking went away after I greased the crap out of the spacers.

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    Yeah, the play that I experienced was all vertical.

    And, yes, #30 and #31 look like the right parts. They just added two more of those washers and the play went away.
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  80. #980
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    New Bike Day

    Here's my new ride.

    Yeti ASRc Turquoise
    Rockshocks Pike Boost 120mm
    Xt Drivetrain, 34T 11-46 Cassette
    Xt Brakes
    Magura Storm Rotors
    ESI grips
    Fox Transfer performance dropper
    Enve Twenty9 xc rims/ DT 240s hubs
    Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron tires
    Yeti carbon bars 760mm, 20mm rise
    Wren stem

    Comes in at 26.14 lbs, a little more than I estimated (24.7)

    Yeti ASR Carbon-newbike.jpg

    Took it for a ride and it is leagues above my previous bike (Spec. rockhopper). I went with a pike because I originally had a deal on a slightly used pike but the steerer tube was too short. Lbs offered a new Fox 34 on liquidation, but the steerer tube was also too short. They had a new 2017 pike boost they would give me for the same price. I struggled with it but I have a race in 3 weeks, and the next time I would visit the shop would be the week of the race. I want to have everything dialed before that week.

    I took it out for a ride and it was so awesome. It climbed well, and descended better than expected with the suspension set up right. I even got in the top 5 of a segment on strava somehow. This bike leans well compared to my other bike.

    I wasn't super impressed with the transfer, but it might need to be broken in a little bit more. It just felt like it was rubbing coming up. I realized I don't use the dropper as much as I thought I would. Since this bike doubles as my trail bike, it will be nice to have for the gnar and more downhill stuff (when I actually used it). I might grap a cheap fixed post and drop a pound off the bike if I find I don't use the dropper too much in races.

    Overall, this bike continues to amazing, I'm looking forward to a great season and some fun mtb adventures!

  81. #981
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    Bunch of cheap-ish ways to drop weight.

    Replace thru axles with lighter ones. That alone should get you below 26lbs. Maxle stealth on the front, and there are plenty of bolt-on e-thru options for the rear.

    Saddle, cassette, pedals are probably next.
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  82. #982
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    Hello :-) I'd like to understand the benefits of the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm vs the Fox 32 120mm that comes standard with the ASR.

    I'm building a Yeti Beti Asr from scratch. Since the Rockshox Sid not longer comes in 120mm....a friend recommends the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm.

    I currently ride a 2002 Trek Fuel 100 as my cross country bike in Florida and Carolinas.....I may be moving to Fort Collins CO.....I also have a 2013 Trek Remedy 9.8 that I use when on vacation in Colorado...especially for downhill parks.

    I am a weight snob and dreamed of replacing my 24.5 lb fuel with a bike at least that light...I like how easy it is to handle a light bike on flatter terrain and when climbing....

    I'm worried a Pike 130 vs the Fox 32 120mm would make my little ASR feel more like my Remedy....but maybe I'm way off in this fear...lol...I love the Remedy when I'm going downhill....but it just feels so clunky on flatter cross country trails...compared to my old Trek Fuel....

    I'd appreciate input....Thanks!

  83. #983
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    I would not get a f32 120 under any circumstance. The F34 weighs the same and is a significantly nicer fork.



    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbikingmama View Post
    Hello :-) I'd like to understand the benefits of the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm vs the Fox 32 120mm that comes standard with the ASR.

    I'm building a Yeti Beti Asr from scratch. Since the Rockshox Sid not longer comes in 120mm....a friend recommends the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm.

    I currently ride a 2002 Trek Fuel 100 as my cross country bike in Florida and Carolinas.....I may be moving to Fort Collins CO.....I also have a 2013 Trek Remedy 9.8 that I use when on vacation in Colorado...especially for downhill parks.

    I am a weight snob and dreamed of replacing my 24.5 lb fuel with a bike at least that light...I like how easy it is to handle a light bike on flatter terrain and when climbing....

    I'm worried a Pike 130 vs the Fox 32 120mm would make my little ASR feel more like my Remedy....but maybe I'm way off in this fear...lol...I love the Remedy when I'm going downhill....but it just feels so clunky on flatter cross country trails...compared to my old Trek Fuel....

    I'd appreciate input....Thanks!

  84. #984
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbikingmama View Post
    Hello :-) I'd like to understand the benefits of the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm vs the Fox 32 120mm that comes standard with the ASR.

    I'm building a Yeti Beti Asr from scratch. Since the Rockshox Sid not longer comes in 120mm....a friend recommends the Pike Rct3 130mm dropped to 120mm.

    I currently ride a 2002 Trek Fuel 100 as my cross country bike in Florida and Carolinas.....I may be moving to Fort Collins CO.....I also have a 2013 Trek Remedy 9.8 that I use when on vacation in Colorado...especially for downhill parks.

    I am a weight snob and dreamed of replacing my 24.5 lb fuel with a bike at least that light...I like how easy it is to handle a light bike on flatter terrain and when climbing....

    I'm worried a Pike 130 vs the Fox 32 120mm would make my little ASR feel more like my Remedy....but maybe I'm way off in this fear...lol...I love the Remedy when I'm going downhill....but it just feels so clunky on flatter cross country trails...compared to my old Trek Fuel....

    I'd appreciate input....Thanks!
    I happen to have a pike rct3 boost 120mm on my ASRc. Why I have it is a long story. It looks weird and is about half a pound heavier than my preferred fox 34 but was cheaper than going with a 34. I ended up going over my budget about $1000 anyway so anymore wouldn't​ have worked.

    The bike still feels the same as the 25lb xt turq model I tested. The front feels a little heavier but a whole lot stiffer and composed downhill. In my opinion, it still feels like a race bike but I can have fun on gnarly trails if I want to. It's super fast and accelerates well in the flats. I didn't notice, but I cruised up a 25-30% average grade hill without knowing it. Something I wasn't able to do on my hardtail.

    Basically, if you want lighter go with a fox 34. If you have money go for the rs-1 or the Swiss opm. If you don't care about 1/2 a pound the pike will still work. I don't think the fork is really going to make it feel that much difference though.

  85. #985
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksanman View Post
    I happen to have a pike rct3 boost 120mm on my ASRc. Why I have it is a long story. It looks weird and is about half a pound heavier than my preferred fox 34 but was cheaper than going with a 34. I ended up going over my budget about $1000 anyway so anymore wouldn't​ have worked.

    The bike still feels the same as the 25lb xt turq model I tested. The front feels a little heavier but a whole lot stiffer and composed downhill. In my opinion, it still feels like a race bike but I can have fun on gnarly trails if I want to. It's super fast and accelerates well in the flats. I didn't notice, but I cruised up a 25-30% average grade hill without knowing it. Something I wasn't able to do on my hardtail.

    Basically, if you want lighter go with a fox 34. If you have money go for the rs-1 or the Swiss opm. If you don't care about 1/2 a pound the pike will still work. I don't think the fork is really going to make it feel that much difference though.
    I don't recommend RS-1 for general trail riding and backcountry type stuff. The lack of torsional stiffness has led me down the exposed side of a trail/cliffside more than once. You can't just turn the handlebar back towards the trail, as the wheel seemingly goes in the direction of least resistance. I'm glad that I was using flats and slowed down enough all those times to plant a foot and yank the bike up and back onto the trail. That said, it has very consistent suppleness and trustworthy traction. It's good for marathon, but just beware of how it behaves on off-cambers. Hitting bumps and under braking, it feels stiff like an Enduro fork, and feels so smooth and sensitive. I'd say it'd be worth the cost if only it didn't have that torsional stiffness prob... considering the cost, RS could afford to license some anti-rotation tech from the other brands (guessing it's all patented). Well, I'll accept that the RS-1 may be alright for FL, but I worry about it on CO trails.

  86. #986
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    Thank you for the input so far. I demoed the ASR in Golden and in Crested Butte....so yes...my one main concern is that I like how it handled....and just worried the Pike might make it feel like a different bike...and the weight....

    What is the advantage of changing the 130mm Pike to a 120mm...if it's not going to make it lighter....how will it change your ride? Will having the extra 10mm slow you down on flatter areas? lol I'm a bit ignorant about this having ridden the same 4 inch travel bike for so many years....(an only riding my Remedy in the mountains...not everyday)

    RS-1 wouldn't be in the budget even if it was the best choice....I'm a bit confused....doesn't the Fox 34 weight about 1lb more than the 32? And about the same as the lightest Pike?

    I am also curious about the Swiss opm....

  87. #987
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    I don't recommend RS-1 for general trail riding and backcountry type stuff. The lack of torsional stiffness has led me down the exposed side of a trail/cliffside more than once. You can't just turn the handlebar back towards the trail, as the wheel seemingly goes in the direction of least resistance. I'm glad that I was using flats and slowed down enough all those times to plant a foot and yank the bike up and back onto the trail. That said, it has very consistent suppleness and trustworthy traction. It's good for marathon, but just beware of how it behaves on off-cambers. Hitting bumps and under braking, it feels stiff like an Enduro fork, and feels so smooth and sensitive. I'd say it'd be worth the cost if only it didn't have that torsional stiffness prob... considering the cost, RS could afford to license some anti-rotation tech from the other brands (guessing it's all patented). Well, I'll accept that the RS-1 may be alright for FL, but I worry about it on CO trails.
    Didn't know that, I just know a lot of guys use it. Thanks for the story though, I'll note that for later. I'm a bigger guy and an aggressive rider so anything with 32mm stanchions is out of the game for me at this point. I like to win, but I'm also not an elite race so I'd rather have the more trail rid-able bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbikingmama View Post
    Thank you for the input so far. I demoed the ASR in Golden and in Crested Butte....so yes...my one main concern is that I like how it handled....and just worried the Pike might make it feel like a different bike...and the weight....

    What is the advantage of changing the 130mm Pike to a 120mm...if it's not going to make it lighter....how will it change your ride? Will having the extra 10mm slow you down on flatter areas? lol I'm a bit ignorant about this having ridden the same 4 inch travel bike for so many years....(an only riding my Remedy in the mountains...not everyday)

    RS-1 wouldn't be in the budget even if it was the best choice....I'm a bit confused....doesn't the Fox 34 weight about 1lb more than the 32? And about the same as the lightest Pike?

    I am also curious about the Swiss opm....
    I'm pretty sure the Fox 34 120mm 29 weighs 4.01 lbs, which is the same as the fox 32 120mm, which is 1lb heavier than the step cast 32 which is only available in 100mm so you didn't demo it. My pike is 4.3ish lbs.

    The advantage is the ASR geo is made for 120mm, 130mm would change it slightly though you might not notice it. Slightly higher bb and slightly slacker HA, (68.5ish I think?)

    The real benefit is going to be a stiffer front wheel with the pike, verses something a little more flexy (If you ride aggressive I believe, thats just what I have experienced and heard.)

    For reference, I built my bike to be in between a rocky mountain element bc edition/santa cruz tallboy and the ASRc. It still climbs the same, but I can descend more aggressively.

    Maybe someone with a little more experience can chime in on their experience of 32 vs 34/pike?

  88. #988
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    oops....All this time....I'd been looking at the specs for the Fox 32 100mm thinking it was the 120mm....so....I was thinking Fox 120mm was a 3lb fork. Now, at least weight wise...lol Pike doesn't seem such a drastic change....

    Thanks for the explanation Ksanman....I certainly do not want to raise the bottom bracket and therefore the standover....Standover was the only part of the ASR I didn't like....

  89. #989
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    Hi, has anybody take an enduro race on this bike? may hold the abusse?
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  90. #990
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    Quote Originally Posted by emeterio View Post
    Hi, has anybody take an enduro race on this bike? may hold the abusse?
    That would be very, very course dependent.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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  91. #991
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbikingmama View Post
    oops....All this time....I'd been looking at the specs for the Fox 32 100mm thinking it was the 120mm....so....I was thinking Fox 120mm was a 3lb fork. Now, at least weight wise...lol Pike doesn't seem such a drastic change....

    Thanks for the explanation Ksanman....I certainly do not want to raise the bottom bracket and therefore the standover....Standover was the only part of the ASR I didn't like....
    The only thing the SC and 120mm 32 have in common is stanchion diameter.

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  92. #992
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    No big jumps, some decent rock gardens and technical descend :S, I had a yeti sb66 and sold it because no enduro races at my town, now 3 months later is a complete serian and I just have my yeti asr hahaha
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  93. #993
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    Rear Tire: I know this has probably been asked before, but will an Ardent 2.4 fit the rear?
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
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  94. #994
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    I don't recommend RS-1 for general trail riding and backcountry type stuff. The lack of torsional stiffness has led me down the exposed side of a trail/cliffside more than once Well, I'll accept that the RS-1 may be alright for FL, but I worry about it on CO trails.
    It could be perhaps because of your weight or wheelset? I've run an rs-1 on two bikes and race almost exclusively Backcountry races and ride all summer long on technical, high consequence trails in the alps. I love the rs-1, and I had a pike before that. I've also spent a couple weeks on a fox 34...I choose the rs-1. That being said I'm 140lbs, so it's not like I flex components much.


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    Quote Originally Posted by dfishdesign View Post
    It could be perhaps because of your weight or wheelset? I've run an rs-1 on two bikes and race almost exclusively Backcountry races and ride all summer long on technical, high consequence trails in the alps. I love the rs-1, and I had a pike before that. I've also spent a couple weeks on a fox 34...I choose the rs-1. That being said I'm 140lbs, so it's not like I flex components much.
    How do you handle riding in grooves, ruts, that go in the same direction as the trail? Does it roll out if you turn the handlebars? Do you perhaps over-correct or hop out?

    I think it's more of a case of adapting, than the fork's torsional flex being no problem or not. I know Bike Mag Germany gave the RS1 top honors over other XC forks, but there's mixed reviews, which I merely acknowledge as it being highly subjective (love or hate). I personally think the 34 and Pike can be more supple (don't really like running it that way when I'm pedaling hard), but then again I had a special version of the RS1.

    My setup was a RS-1 Spike Valve 130mm and accompanying Traverse Fattie SL with Predictive Steering hub (both from S-Works Camber 650b), Hans Dampf 2.35 Trailstar SS TLE, 135 lbs.

  96. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Rear Tire: I know this has probably been asked before, but will an Ardent 2.4 fit the rear?
    Good question. I'm running a Minion SS 2.3 at the rear. No issues. There's still space to ride it comfortably but curious about the 2.4 size.

  97. #997
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mansram01 View Post
    Good question. I'm running a Minion SS 2.3 at the rear. No issues. There's still space to ride it comfortably but curious about the 2.4 size.
    Yeah, I checked into it and the 2.4 measures 60mm, which I think is just too close. I went with the 2.25 as most do. Still would like to know if anyone had success with the 2.4.

    I like the Minion SS, which I run on my SB5, it's just a tad heavier which I was trying to get away from by the Ardent.
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  98. #998
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Yeah, I checked into it and the 2.4 measures 60mm, which I think is just too close. I went with the 2.25 as most do. Still would like to know if anyone had success with the 2.4.

    I like the Minion SS, which I run on my SB5, it's just a tad heavier which I was trying to get away from by the Ardent.

    For reference, I had a Conti MKII on a i29 rim, and got rubbing. It looks like the Ardent is a bit bigger than the MKII.

    I'm running a WTB Trail Boss 2.25 on the rear. It's a high volume 2.25--about as big a tire as I can run without fearing tire rub on the seatstays. Another good Ardent alternative is the Forekaster 2.35, as it's not super large and is very light and supple.

  99. #999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Yeah, I checked into it and the 2.4 measures 60mm, which I think is just too close. I went with the 2.25 as most do. Still would like to know if anyone had success with the 2.4.

    I like the Minion SS, which I run on my SB5, it's just a tad heavier which I was trying to get away from by the Ardent.
    I also measured my front Ardent 2.4 at 60mm. My rear Minion SS 2.3 measures at 58.6mm wide with about 5.5mm clearance from the frame at the closest point. A 2.4 will fit but it will be very snug with the frame. Perhaps too close...

  100. #1000
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    Nobby Nic 2.35 comes up around the same as an ardent 2.4: about 60mm. While technically it fits, it's too tight in my opinion - especially if there's mud. (Or you have flexy wheels / mild buckle)
    Every tool is special.

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