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  1. #1
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    What 36 fork on a SB-66?

    All,

    I am in the process of choosing the components for my next SB-66 bike.

    The big question is the fork:

    I am 61, 172 pounds. I own a yeti 575 from 2006, with a 2006 fox float 130 on it with QR.
    My home terrain is steep, and very rocky. My rides are uphill and downhill, about 1500 2000 feet uphill per day climbing, and then enjoying the DH

    I tried the bike with the 2012 fox float 150 RLC, and I have to say I was impressed by the plush compared to my 2006 130
    But since my home terrain is really rocky, I thought I would give a go at the float 36 as it would be much stiffer, and would feel stronger. I was always told that the talas system would take some of the plush away, so that was not so much an option.

    So I consider that the options are:
    - Float 36 160mm
    - Van 36 160mm
    - Talas 36 160mm


    What would you recommend, knowing that I like the fork being plushy, and I climb quite a lot, knowing my weight and the bike (sb66) ?

    Any inputs from big climbers ?

    Thanks !

    Gerome

  2. #2
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    I'm 230 and ride a 7. I went coil and will never go back. If your worried about weight go with the float. Otherwise go with the van. Plush, fade free, and takes rock gardens like a champ.

  3. #3
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    If living in rock country, I would go coil suspension all the way, front to back and not look back. I live in the PacNW with mixed conditions, mostly burmy, buffed forested singletrack and have a Lyrik DH solo air set at 160. I typically do 2-3k' climbs on any given ride, weigh 215lbs geared, not a climbing freak or fantatic (do long grinds just for the descents) and I typically don't have much trouble climbing with the 160 fork on the SB66 even though it is pretty slack at like 65.4 deg HTA, 70.4 STA w/2.3 front/2.2 rear tire. I used to only ride my trail/AM bikes with adjustable forks over the past several years since we have longish steep grinds here and it always was comfortable to steepen the front end for the climbs. But been on a fixed travel fork for about 4 months now and is a lighter, plusher set-up than previous adjustable version and the front end never pops up or wanders with 50mm stem due to longer top tube and zero stack headset. I do on occasion have to scoot myself forward to nose of saddle on really steep inclines though. Most all adjustable forks eventually fail at somepoint in time, at least all of mine have with exception of a an old Marz Z1 w/ETA that I had for awhile before selling.

    My choices if were you would be (in order of most desirable to least). RLC on Fox stuff is a waste, IMO. Every fork should just have high and low speed compression and rebound.

    1) Fox 160 Van
    2) Fox 180 Float (spacced down to 160)
    3) RS Lyrik DH coil or solo air
    4) Marz 55 Ti RC3
    5) Fox 160 Float
    6) Fox 160 Talas
    Ride On!

  4. #4
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    Bos Deville? It is what I have on mine.

    Can't get excited about the Fox options.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    BOS Deville has a very linear spring rate curve and is controlled plushness. Have one on mine, although it feels a bit high compared to my 08 575. This is also due to this being a taller bike overall. Wish they didn't make the head tube so darn long!

  6. #6
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    This is weird, I am french, but never heard of Bos before... I like the 34 mm diameter principle, but how is the plush compared to the fox van ?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    Wish they didn't make the head tube so darn long!
    Run a zero stack headset, shorter stack stem and/or no spacers under stem, lower rise and wider bars? All of these will lower the height of the front end. I am new to a zero stack headset on my SB66 and have to use a lot more spacers than I care for under the stem for best bar height for me. Wish the headtube on my med SB was longer, like that of the size of a large at 5.5" because of this.
    Ride On!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Run a zero stack headset, shorter stack stem and/or no spacers under stem, lower rise and wider bars? All of these will lower the height of the front end. I am new to a zero stack headset on my SB66 and have to use a lot more spacers than I care for under the stem for best bar height for me. Wish the headtube on my med SB was longer, like that of the size of a large at 5.5" because of this.
    Zero stack headset, no spacers, 60mm stem, 730mm bars, and it is still quite tall. Come from a 575 with 4.5" head tube and ~1" stack height and a couple of spacers - but a 140 fork. Heaps of difference IMO. Need to get som pressure on the front wheel

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    Zero stack headset, no spacers, 60mm stem, 730mm bars, and it is still quite tall. Come from a 575 with 4.5" head tube and ~1" stack height and a couple of spacers - but a 140 fork. Heaps of difference IMO. Need to get som pressure on the front wheel
    What fork you running, a 150 or 160? If not wanting to go wider in bars (I run 760's with low bar rise and 0 deg rised stem) then I try to go for an adjustable fork (Talas 160-130) to lower the front end even more. If this doesn't do it, then size down frames (sounds like the medium is too big and which I would imagine it to be for most folks <5'9"). What's your bar height from floor to top of grips with bike centered? Mine is just about 41" which feels perfect fot most AM stuff. I couldn't imagine riding with <40" bar height on this.
    Ride On!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    What fork you running, a 150 or 160? If not wanting to go wider in bars (I run 760's with low bar rise and 0 deg rised stem) then I try to go for an adjustable fork (Talas 160-130) to lower the front end even more. If this doesn't do it, then size down frames (sounds like the medium is too big and which I would imagine it to be for most folks <5'9"). What's your bar height from floor to top of grips with bike centered? Mine is just about 41" which feels perfect fot most AM stuff. I couldn't imagine riding with <40" bar height on this.
    Running 160mm BOS Deville. A tall bugger. I cannot go any wider, due to the fact that local trail havent received the new memo regarding tree distance standard TALAS is waste of money, as most bikes I have tried with one are rubbish when lowered. And the reason for a low front end is to get good weight on the front wheel when (drumroll) descending. Long, low and slack - the modern way of riding. And FYI: I am on a large frame. Any shorter and I feel cramped. I am 185cm tall.

  11. #11
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    How do you run with no spacers and not have your levers hit the frame when the bars turn past 90?

    I have a bunch of spacers only for that reason.
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4
    Yeti SB-66 Gallery

  12. #12
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    I'm 185cm on a large with a Bos Deville 160. I'm running a 750mm bar on a 55mm stem and need a single 10mm spacer to get the controls to clear the top tube.

    I've found that the angle of rotation of the bar in the stem is the last fine adjust on my riding position - makes a big difference. While the front end is definitely higher than when I had the Fox 32 150 RLC on the bike, I still feel like I've got that long, low aggressive position. The answer for me has been to step up to riding steeper descents and still feel comfortable on that terrain.

    I'd still class my Deville as being in the breaking-in stage. I'm also trying different air sleeve spacers in the RP23, expecting that to change the ride height of the rear. Everything from here onward is fine adjustment.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by petercarm View Post
    I'm 185cm on a large with a Bos Deville 160. I'm running a 750mm bar on a 55mm stem and need a single 10mm spacer to get the controls to clear the top tube.

    I've found that the angle of rotation of the bar in the stem is the last fine adjust on my riding position - makes a big difference. While the front end is definitely higher than when I had the Fox 32 150 RLC on the bike, I still feel like I've got that long, low aggressive position. The answer for me has been to step up to riding steeper descents and still feel comfortable on that terrain.

    I'd still class my Deville as being in the breaking-in stage. I'm also trying different air sleeve spacers in the RP23, expecting that to change the ride height of the rear. Everything from here onward is fine adjustment.
    Cool, that's what I just recently did to finalize the cockpit fit on my SB I just got about a month ago. I just rolled the bars in some to tighten up the reach and everything feels just about right for climb/descending almost any terrain. Just got done griding/dropping 3.3k' in less than 7 miles earlier today and the SB handled it phenomenally! Definitely a FUN bike to have on the trail
    Ride On!

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