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  1. #1
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    Tell me about my RP23

    I've just bought a Yeti SB-66 which I believe to have a 2012 RP23 however, the shock's pro-pedal knob says 0-1-2 rather and 1-2-3 and won't move, only the pro-pedal lever moves. Can anyone tell me if the RP23 is a 2012 and whether this is correct? Should I be able to turn the pro-pedal knob?

  2. #2
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    Yes you lift the knob up and turn.... basically put the 0 in line with the blue propedal lever for the "plushest" softest ride while in the open mode... the numbers do nothing in propedal mode
    on the 2012. So on this model 0,1,2 affect how firm it is while in the open position not how
    firm it is in propedal. Really id say you'll set it to 0 and leave it there ... you can use your popedal
    for hard fast climbing if you need it....

    Check out the manual on the Yeti Website for settings... the 2012 is different to the previous
    versions (highlighted by 0,1,2 instead of 1,2,3)

    also a youtube video explaining the setup (Competitive Cyclist shows how to set up the FOX RP23 rear shock - YouTube)

  3. #3
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    The old RP23, the lever selected "0" or whatever the knob was set to. The new one it selects "3" or whatever the knob is. My opinion, Fox screwed that decision pretty hard. The new design would work great on a bobby single pivot where you basically always need some pro-pedal (I found I did on my 575), but a lot more modern frames don't really need it (like what people are saying about the SB66), so the lever is basically useless. Having 0 or 1 or 2 accessible without getting off the bike might be nice, but 3 is basically a useless setting, so you never use the lever.

  4. #4
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    Propedal now has limited use.. you would often ride your bike in propedal mode (not everyone)
    but many people did to allow for the relatively "poor" pedal platform of full open. So it makes sense
    to give the riders some semi on the fly control over the propedal settings (1,2,3) to fine tune it and have
    a single full open setting.
    TBH on my 575 the midstroke in open mode is dreadfull so i'd ride it in propedal mode
    mostly to try and compensate somewhat... sounds like you were too ;P

    With modern bikes like the SB66 then the propedal mode is significantly less useful (hence 1 fixed setting)
    and most riders will ride the bike in the open position (hence 3 settings).. but Fox have given people the option
    of some adjustment in the most used mode (some compression damping) to allow for riding style and preference.. some
    just like a firmer ride. So yeah agreed i'd never use setting 2.. (got it set to 0) but i do use
    the propedal firm mode on hard fast climbs but i dont need any fine tuning for it.. Probably you could get away with no adjustment on an SB66 like i think your saying...
    simply have a 1 propedal and 1 full open but not all bikes offer such a good platform hence
    the compression damping offered in "open" mode as Fox need to cater for these also?.

    I must be misunderstanding your post Joules as were clearly saying exactly the same things but the new setup is clearly aimed at modern stable
    pedal platform bikes.... the old style with varying settings for propedal makes perfect sense for
    a bobby single pivot... the new shock is aimed at good pedal platform bikes hence the single token
    very firm propedal mode for specific situations (rare i agree) ...

    You could argue the full open is usless on a 575 like propedal is on the SB66 for that matter.
    I do use full open on my 575 and Propedal on my 66 however just they are rarely used
    specal settings .

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    You could argue the full open is usless on a 575 like propedal is on the SB66 for that matter.
    I do use full open on my 575 and Propedal on my 66 however just they are rarely used
    specal settings .
    That is exactly what I'm arguing.

    Old, single pivots, like a 575. On mine, I've never even once turned PP off. It bobs uncontrollably in that setting. I use PP3 all the time. If I could lever-select PP2 or 3, that would have been useful for me, but PP 0 or 3, I'm always in 3. Only way I'd ever switch to PP0 is if I broke my chain and was by necessity coasting all the time.

    Newer-multi pivot that doesn't rely on PP as much to control bob. I don't have an SB [yet], but on my DW link Turner, PP3 is useless. With the lever selecting PP0 or PP1, it works exactly as it's supposed to: full open most of the time, a little firmer for some climbs, but not so firm that you loose traction. With a new RP23, this bike will perform worse, no question about it - it has to because you're giving up one very useful setting and getting a significantly less useful one.


    I think with these modern frames, the time has come for a simpler, non-platform shock, with a compression adjustment, not PP. Basically an air sprung van or RC4 (and not the all-mighty piece of worthless $hit that is the DHX-air). Push is making one based on the monarch, but it seems like such a waste to have to immediately replace the shock that was included in the frame price.

  6. #6
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    When I use propedal on my 575 I always leave the switch on the 0 setting and I don't notice any bob whatsoever. Ive actually never switched from the 0 setting.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew8404 View Post
    When I use propedal on my 575 I always leave the switch on the 0 setting and I don't notice any bob whatsoever. Ive actually never switched from the 0 setting.
    The numbers have no effect when pro pedal is on.

    with propedal off 0 is the plushest...1 harder..2..3...etc..
    29er's are Goofy

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