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  1. #1
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    Switch pivot bearings

    Mine are toast after 2.5 months.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-img_2194.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.

  4. #4
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    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    Cracking sounds, rough suspension movement. Look at the one on the left... the seal cover is ripped off and the ball bearings have fallen out. The one on the right is crushed as well.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.

    They have no more than 7 days use in wet/muddy conditions and the pivot was tightened at the factory.
    Last edited by Penny; 10-17-2011 at 02:33 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.
    I have had pretty good luck removing blown bearings with one of these: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...ing-puller-set

    The expanding surface is a lip, and I have found that if it can be fit in the groove where the bearings usually run it will provide enough purchase for removal. Slide hammer need not be used, the expander can just be tapped out.

  9. #9
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    Im with Veteran Youth, bearing puller is definatly the best way to go so as not to damage the rest of pivot.
    If you dont wanna buy one just head down to your mechanic and they should be able to pull it out for you.

  10. #10
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    I actually just put in a vice and tapped it out with a hammer and screwdriver... worked like a charm.

  11. #11
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    or do that

  12. #12
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    There was a batch of bad bearings in the first run I think, Yeti should take care of you through the company you bought it from.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    ...hard to see damage...
    The seal is gone and the bearings are sitting in a mix of santorum and dirt.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan_speeder View Post
    sitting in a mix of santorum
    Props for correct usage of the word..

  15. #15
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    Did you notice if the bearings got ruff feeling prior to failure?

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    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.
    Both my local shop and Jenson (who sold me the frame) have told me that Yeti used low quality bearings in my frame. I have received replacement bearings of the same quality, but Jenson said Yeti wouldn't have the better quality bearings for at least 2 weeks. This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.

    And I agree with you about the torque specs and greasing the axels... I did that first thing when I got the frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

    Bummer. Mine had the exact some thing. A few scuffs on the paintwork on the switch pivot axle from the factory was really fishy and found out later that the bearings turned out to be notchy. Took it back to the LBS last week where they said another frame had the exact same problems and they've narrowed it down to bad bearing tolerances. Link pins were also bone dry when it was dismantled at the LBS. It's been 4 days now and the shop is still trying to get it sorted out.

    Yeti, if you're reading this, I wasn't hoping to pay over 2 grand for something that should be fixed out of the box. Not happy at all..

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    Last edited by Penny; 10-31-2011 at 06:12 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks

  22. #22
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    How to ID Good / Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.

  23. #23
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    Guys-

    For tech support issues, it's ALWAYS going to be better/faster to go directly to your dealer, but I'll do my best here . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    -Yes, it only applies to the Switch bearings
    -It's a "Dual Row" bearing vs. a "Single Row" bearing
    -We're starting to receive the replacement bearings in now, so I'd say 2 weeks should be the maximum

    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks
    -Yes, rough bearings are a sign that they're incorrect.

    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.
    The "good" bearings are labeled with the acronym "VRD". However, please note that even the 'bad' bearings are completely suitable for ~90% of the riders and conditions out there. All of us here at Yeti - and our entire demo fleet - have been logging hundreds of miles on the 'bad' bearings to test out our worst-case scenario, and we've only had two failures that I'm aware of.

    Again, if you're having any problems at all, talk to your dealer. They'll get you hooked up much faster and more efficiently than I can do via the inter-webs.

    Thanks guys,

    JP
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

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    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?

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    New question here. Any 2012 SB-66 With Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?
    And were any of the 2012 SB-66's at risk of having the bad bearings?

  26. #26
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    any update from yeti? regarding the affected 2012 series?...

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    Sb66 d.o.a.

    Having read this post prior to my new SB66 frame arriving I thought I would strip it down and check which bearings were fitted and sure enough I had the suspect single row bearings. But worse than that they were already bust with a distinct notchy movement to both bearings. Zero miles, zero ride time, been waiting over two weeks for replacements via distributor, not very impressed that there is no way of getting this issue sorted direct with Yeti.
    The state of these bearings makes me think there is an assembly issue associated with the single row bearings also and it would go some way to explaining the early failures other people have reported.
    Have to confess I am starting to think I should have stuck with Turner and got the 5 Spot..

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritPOP View Post
    Have to confess I am starting to think I should have stuck with Turner and got the 5 Spot..
    I appreciate your frustration, but production issues on a new assembly are kind-of to be expected, no?

    Also, depending on how much rotation the linkage actually goes through isn't it pretty unavoidable that any bearings in there will eventually be notchy?

    Not having complete rotation to keep lubricant spread evenly is a problem. One of the reasons, IIRC, that Turner uses a different solution.

    I'm hoping that once we get my next bike ordered and it comes in that things will have settled (it'll be an SB), but I look forward to some early quiet time with the bike in my "shop" scoping it out and tuning things.

    I don't know about you but I'm fanatical about my main ride and want to *know* it's AOK for whatever it is going to have to deal with.

    Even factoring my virtual "hourly rate" - as if I were paid to work on my bikes - I still can't afford to pay someone else to be that nutty about my bike before they hand it over to me. I'm expecting 3-6 hours of checking things out after the LBS hands it over.

    Which of course my wife will JUST not understand.

  29. #29
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    Its all about customer service at this point..

    I'm a partner in small product design consultancy and have worked in manufcturing for the past 20yrs so find myself quite tolerant of the odd manufacturing/production faux pas what is non negotiable on any high end product is customer service.
    This is a known issue and should take at most a couple of days to close out after all how long does it take to put a couple of bearings in an envelope and put it in the post out tray ?
    Personaly if I'm paying £2000 for a bicycle frame I 'expect' it to turn up on my doorstep correctly assembled and ready for me just to fit my choice of components, if I feel I that I have to double check that every every nut bolt and washer has been assembled/manufactured correctly then I have bought from the wrong manufacturer.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritPOP View Post
    I'm a partner in small product design consultancy and have worked in manufcturing for the past 20yrs so find myself quite tolerant of the odd manufacturing/production faux pas what is non negotiable on any high end product is customer service.
    This is a known issue and should take at most a couple of days to close out after all how long does it take to put a couple of bearings in an envelope and put it in the post out tray ?
    Personaly if I'm paying £2000 for a bicycle frame I 'expect' it to turn up on my doorstep correctly assembled and ready for me just to fit my choice of components, if I feel I that I have to double check that every every nut bolt and washer has been assembled/manufactured correctly then I have bought from the wrong manufacturer.
    And the question that begs an answer....why are the frames with the incorrect bearings not being recalled before they get sent out to the consumer?????

    I can understand the fact that some frames are no longer in Yeti headquarters but out to the lbs's. Still, why can they not confine and control the issue? Seems like they are waiting for the end user to bring it to their attention. Seems like it should be the other way around. If the bikes are serialized and they have production dates of the wrong bearings being used then they should have record of suspect bikes and what shop's have bought them. With that knowledge they could send out replacement bearings to the shops, who in turn can fix their stock before sale, or contact existing customers. Sounds like a lot of work but I don't think it really is. Especially on a very very expensive frame purchase such as the 66.
    Last edited by eatdrinkride; 03-06-2012 at 06:23 PM.

  31. #31
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    Much as I love to tinker, what BritPOP & eatdrinkride say makes sense.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Much as I love to tinker, what BritPOP & eatdrinkride say makes sense.
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.
    I am with that/you as well!.
    Not sure what version I am riding, but I'd like to know and have it replaced if it is the single row.
    John P did say they have tested the bad parts extensively and found "only 2 failures" but I don't know how to make statistics out of this. He also said how to recognize the good parts but I am one of those who don't know how to take their bike apart and even if I knew I'd preffer them to just post the part numberts affected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    And were any of the 2012 SB-66's at risk of having the bad bearings?
    I have a 2012 XL SB-66 that needed the bearing fix. Yeti provided a one-page .pdf describing the bearing ID and replacement to a double-row version to its dealers, who forwarded to me. These are standard bearings and I was able to find the spec. sheets easily -- the correct bearing has a much higher static load rating so you really should make sure it is right.

    About a week so after receiving my frame, I took apart the Switch assembly (very nice and serviceable design), confirmed the bad bearing number, 63802VRS, requested replacement, 3802VRD, from my Internet "LBS," (free of course) and installed. After about 600 miles of eastern USA single-track so far (I am 6'3" and about 230# loaded), my SB-66 continues to be quiet, smooth, climbs like crazy, and for my size is the most comfortable bike I ever rode.

    There is absolutely no rubbing of tires or cable housings, creaks, squeaks or even rock chips in the paint. I am certain that this is the last mountain bike frame I will own...

    No worries -- buy the bike, or if you already own it, check your bearing numbers and replace if needed, and don't look back!

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    John P did say they have tested the bad parts extensively and found "only 2 failures" but I don't know how to make statistics out of this. He also said how to recognize the good parts but I am one of those who don't know how to take their bike apart and even if I knew I'd preffer them to just post the part numberts affected.
    Someone that has the bike torn down or accessible could help out with the latter, based on what John P has said. Shoot one of these pics floating around may be detailed enough, maybe.

    re:statistics

    All that means is that they didn't hit the problem. To me that only proves the sub-spec bearings *can* work not that they *will* work properly.

    Those in-house "rides" may have had more attentive assembly, and probably had more regular care than most of us bike-geeks in the wild provide to our mounts (apologies ahead of time to the q-tip/inch-oz-rated-torque-wrench brandishing population).

    I moved in '09 and now have zero personal experiences with the LBS wrenches, but then I do all my own maintenance now (because I enjoy it, it's great rainy-day bike-time, and it saves me money).

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Someone that has the bike torn down or accessible could help out with the latter, based on what John P has said. Shoot one of these pics floating around may be detailed enough, maybe.
    Thanks for your help bear but I am not sure I understand your suggestion
    I can not see the full pivot on the assembled bike. Maybe, if it is in one of the visable areas but I could not find it when I looked.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    ...I can not see the full pivot on the assembled bike. Maybe, if it is in one of the visable areas but I could not find it when I looked.
    The bearings (qty 2) in question are located on the outer portion of the eccentric axle (Switch). You need to disconnect the rear triangle from the Switch to see the bearing number impressed on the side of the seal.

    Note: do not force or pry the triangle from the Switch -- remove the through pins at all the connection points to free up the triangle and then gently lift it up and away from the Switch -- as I recall, it will only lift off in one direction.

    Per the Yeti .pdf, the "bad" single-row bearing number is 63802VRS; the "good" double-row bearing number is 3802VRD. The manufacturer appears to be "BOLU" -- here is a URL link to their Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    Working very carefully, it took me only about 90 minutes to take everything apart, change the bearings, and then lube and reassemble.

    In my opinion, this is not a very big deal. Yes, the correct bearing has a higher static load rating but I do not think the incorrect ones are necessarily defective. They could last a very long time. But one could probably spend more time and effort fretting about it than just checking it out and fixing it if needed....

    BTW: I love this bike....

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN

  38. #38
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    Thanks!.
    As said, this is too advanced for my wrenching capabilities. I will JRA for now(after a short injury) and hope for the best...........
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 03-07-2012 at 12:08 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Thanks for your help bear but I am not sure I understand your suggestion
    Sorry, I'd seen pics floating around where the rear triangle was taken off and showed the sides of the Switch, that is what I was thinking of.

    Thanks to kstovestand for the info. ;^)

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    The bike is easy to pull apart if you are looking to swap bearings. It took me about 5-10 minutes once I had all the components stripped off.
    I had the old bearings initially, but my dealer happily got me the correct ones.
    Pretty easy...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-photo0776.jpg  

    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  41. #41
    bog
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.
    First of all, using the word "recall" is incorrect. This is not a safety issue because the bike isn't going to miraculously implode if the bearings get rough.

    I'm not saying Yeti shouldn't have caught this through testing and/or quality assurance because they should have ... but they didn't. Some of the frames may get rough bearings, including mine, but it's not the end of the world and DOES NOT justify taking a batch of frames back from all over the world to replace some $2 bearings.

    They should be replacing them very quickly when any issue crops up. That's it.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  42. #42
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    I never suggested they take back all the bikes. Just send out $2 bearings to all the shops who bought bikes with the INCORRECT bearings and let them handle it from there.

  43. #43
    bog
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    I never suggested they take back all the bikes. Just send out $2 bearings to all the shops who bought bikes with the INCORRECT bearings and let them handle it from there.
    Again, this is not a recall so it shouldn't be treated as one. For any non-safety related issue it is common practice in any industry to replace only the defective units. Just because the bearings are not to specification doesn't mean they won't work just find (as John P has stated). In cases like this there normally would be a service bulletin sent out to alert dealers to the issue and to direct them on the repair. Internet purchases definitely make this harder to work out but it is still possible.

    I have one of the first frames around and my bearings have been fine even after fall and winter in rainy, muddy Vancouver with many hose washings. At 230 lbs I'm hardly easy on my suspension. I will be checking mine soon but there is nothing to worry about now.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Again, this is not a recall so it shouldn't be treated as one. For any non-safety related issue it is common practice in any industry to replace only the defective units. Just because the bearings are not to specification doesn't mean they won't work just find (as John P has stated). In cases like this there normally would be a service bulletin sent out to alert dealers to the issue and to direct them on the repair. Internet purchases definitely make this harder to work out but it is still possible.

    I have one of the first frames around and my bearings have been fine even after fall and winter in rainy, muddy Vancouver with many hose washings. At 230 lbs I'm hardly easy on my suspension. I will be checking mine soon but there is nothing to worry about now.
    Are your bearings single row or double?

  45. #45
    bog
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    Like I said, I have one of the first frames out ... they're single row.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  46. #46
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    Interesting, my first set died pretty fast, and the replacements I got sent were the VRS type, I didn't pick up on this till last night when I changed all the other bearing over, and have gone for around 3 weeks, looks like I'll have to get some VRD's sent to me.

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    Anyone got charged when they took their sb66 to their local dealer to get the switch bearings looked at when they were making noise?

    I got charged for a lube job and some bs without even being notified that additional work that I did not request was being done. .

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    I got charged for a lube job and some bs without even being notified that additional work that I did not request was being done. .
    Signs of a crap shop if you ask me.

    Or un-trained people at the shop, one.

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    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.
    I contacted my Internet LBS (JensonUSA) -- they were well aware of the Yeti replacements and sent them out straightaway -- no charge, of course. Both Yeti (JP) and the folks at JensonUSA were very responsive and great to work with.

    BTW, I did find some BOLU bearing equivalents (about $5 or so) by doing a few Google searches, but why not get them for free from your LBS Yeti dealer -- hope this helps.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS

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