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  1. #1
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    Switch pivot bearings

    Mine are toast after 2.5 months.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-img_2194.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.

  4. #4
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    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    Cracking sounds, rough suspension movement. Look at the one on the left... the seal cover is ripped off and the ball bearings have fallen out. The one on the right is crushed as well.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.

    They have no more than 7 days use in wet/muddy conditions and the pivot was tightened at the factory.
    Last edited by Penny; 10-17-2011 at 03:33 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.
    I have had pretty good luck removing blown bearings with one of these: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...ing-puller-set

    The expanding surface is a lip, and I have found that if it can be fit in the groove where the bearings usually run it will provide enough purchase for removal. Slide hammer need not be used, the expander can just be tapped out.

  9. #9
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    Im with Veteran Youth, bearing puller is definatly the best way to go so as not to damage the rest of pivot.
    If you dont wanna buy one just head down to your mechanic and they should be able to pull it out for you.

  10. #10
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    I actually just put in a vice and tapped it out with a hammer and screwdriver... worked like a charm.

  11. #11
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    or do that

  12. #12
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    There was a batch of bad bearings in the first run I think, Yeti should take care of you through the company you bought it from.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    ...hard to see damage...
    The seal is gone and the bearings are sitting in a mix of santorum and dirt.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan_speeder View Post
    sitting in a mix of santorum
    Props for correct usage of the word..

  15. #15
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    Did you notice if the bearings got ruff feeling prior to failure?

  16. #16
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    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.
    Both my local shop and Jenson (who sold me the frame) have told me that Yeti used low quality bearings in my frame. I have received replacement bearings of the same quality, but Jenson said Yeti wouldn't have the better quality bearings for at least 2 weeks. This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.

    And I agree with you about the torque specs and greasing the axels... I did that first thing when I got the frame.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

    Bummer. Mine had the exact some thing. A few scuffs on the paintwork on the switch pivot axle from the factory was really fishy and found out later that the bearings turned out to be notchy. Took it back to the LBS last week where they said another frame had the exact same problems and they've narrowed it down to bad bearing tolerances. Link pins were also bone dry when it was dismantled at the LBS. It's been 4 days now and the shop is still trying to get it sorted out.

    Yeti, if you're reading this, I wasn't hoping to pay over 2 grand for something that should be fixed out of the box. Not happy at all..

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    Last edited by Penny; 10-31-2011 at 07:12 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks

  22. #22
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    How to ID Good / Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.

  23. #23
    Int'l Sales Mgr. - Yeti
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    Guys-

    For tech support issues, it's ALWAYS going to be better/faster to go directly to your dealer, but I'll do my best here . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    -Yes, it only applies to the Switch bearings
    -It's a "Dual Row" bearing vs. a "Single Row" bearing
    -We're starting to receive the replacement bearings in now, so I'd say 2 weeks should be the maximum

    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks
    -Yes, rough bearings are a sign that they're incorrect.

    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.
    The "good" bearings are labeled with the acronym "VRD". However, please note that even the 'bad' bearings are completely suitable for ~90% of the riders and conditions out there. All of us here at Yeti - and our entire demo fleet - have been logging hundreds of miles on the 'bad' bearings to test out our worst-case scenario, and we've only had two failures that I'm aware of.

    Again, if you're having any problems at all, talk to your dealer. They'll get you hooked up much faster and more efficiently than I can do via the inter-webs.

    Thanks guys,

    JP
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  24. #24
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    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?

  25. #25
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    New question here. Any 2012 SB-66 With Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?
    And were any of the 2012 SB-66's at risk of having the bad bearings?

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