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  1. #1
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    Switch pivot bearings

    Mine are toast after 2.5 months.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-img_2194.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux bro !! What did YETI SAY?
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.

  4. #4
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    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    what was the issue(s)?
    wagging, noise, play?...hard to see damage...
    Cracking sounds, rough suspension movement. Look at the one on the left... the seal cover is ripped off and the ball bearings have fallen out. The one on the right is crushed as well.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    My new Quote is "don't let friends ride old bikes on DH Trails "

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by YETI_Chris View Post
    Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.

    They have no more than 7 days use in wet/muddy conditions and the pivot was tightened at the factory.
    Last edited by Penny; 10-17-2011 at 02:33 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.
    I have had pretty good luck removing blown bearings with one of these: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...ing-puller-set

    The expanding surface is a lip, and I have found that if it can be fit in the groove where the bearings usually run it will provide enough purchase for removal. Slide hammer need not be used, the expander can just be tapped out.

  9. #9
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    Im with Veteran Youth, bearing puller is definatly the best way to go so as not to damage the rest of pivot.
    If you dont wanna buy one just head down to your mechanic and they should be able to pull it out for you.

  10. #10
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    I actually just put in a vice and tapped it out with a hammer and screwdriver... worked like a charm.

  11. #11
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    or do that

  12. #12
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    There was a batch of bad bearings in the first run I think, Yeti should take care of you through the company you bought it from.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    ...hard to see damage...
    The seal is gone and the bearings are sitting in a mix of santorum and dirt.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan_speeder View Post
    sitting in a mix of santorum
    Props for correct usage of the word..

  15. #15
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    Did you notice if the bearings got ruff feeling prior to failure?

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    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.
    Both my local shop and Jenson (who sold me the frame) have told me that Yeti used low quality bearings in my frame. I have received replacement bearings of the same quality, but Jenson said Yeti wouldn't have the better quality bearings for at least 2 weeks. This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.

    And I agree with you about the torque specs and greasing the axels... I did that first thing when I got the frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
    and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
    of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
    I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
    the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

    All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
    them all up to the correct Torque.

    Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
    not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

    So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
    Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
    as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
    adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

    Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

    Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
    expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
    and a joy to ride.

    Bummer. Mine had the exact some thing. A few scuffs on the paintwork on the switch pivot axle from the factory was really fishy and found out later that the bearings turned out to be notchy. Took it back to the LBS last week where they said another frame had the exact same problems and they've narrowed it down to bad bearing tolerances. Link pins were also bone dry when it was dismantled at the LBS. It's been 4 days now and the shop is still trying to get it sorted out.

    Yeti, if you're reading this, I wasn't hoping to pay over 2 grand for something that should be fixed out of the box. Not happy at all..

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    Last edited by Penny; 10-31-2011 at 06:12 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks

  22. #22
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    How to ID Good / Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Penny-

    Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

    Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

    For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

    We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

    John P.
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.

  23. #23
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    Guys-

    For tech support issues, it's ALWAYS going to be better/faster to go directly to your dealer, but I'll do my best here . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Penny View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

    I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
    -Yes, it only applies to the Switch bearings
    -It's a "Dual Row" bearing vs. a "Single Row" bearing
    -We're starting to receive the replacement bearings in now, so I'd say 2 weeks should be the maximum

    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    John,

    Are rough bearings a sign that they are incorrect? I'm asking because my frame is fairly new and the switch pivot started creaking. I took it apart to inspect, clean and re grease. It turns out the bearings felt much more ruff than the other pivot bearings. Actually a bit notchy as previously described.

    Thanks
    -Yes, rough bearings are a sign that they're incorrect.

    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    Please advise how to identify the good / bad bearings. Thanks.
    The "good" bearings are labeled with the acronym "VRD". However, please note that even the 'bad' bearings are completely suitable for ~90% of the riders and conditions out there. All of us here at Yeti - and our entire demo fleet - have been logging hundreds of miles on the 'bad' bearings to test out our worst-case scenario, and we've only had two failures that I'm aware of.

    Again, if you're having any problems at all, talk to your dealer. They'll get you hooked up much faster and more efficiently than I can do via the inter-webs.

    Thanks guys,

    JP
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

    Instagram: @heyjohnp

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    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?

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    New question here. Any 2012 SB-66 With Bad Bearings?

    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    Do you have a list of the affected frame number series? When did you switch to a higher quality bearings?
    And were any of the 2012 SB-66's at risk of having the bad bearings?

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    any update from yeti? regarding the affected 2012 series?...

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    Sb66 d.o.a.

    Having read this post prior to my new SB66 frame arriving I thought I would strip it down and check which bearings were fitted and sure enough I had the suspect single row bearings. But worse than that they were already bust with a distinct notchy movement to both bearings. Zero miles, zero ride time, been waiting over two weeks for replacements via distributor, not very impressed that there is no way of getting this issue sorted direct with Yeti.
    The state of these bearings makes me think there is an assembly issue associated with the single row bearings also and it would go some way to explaining the early failures other people have reported.
    Have to confess I am starting to think I should have stuck with Turner and got the 5 Spot..

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritPOP View Post
    Have to confess I am starting to think I should have stuck with Turner and got the 5 Spot..
    I appreciate your frustration, but production issues on a new assembly are kind-of to be expected, no?

    Also, depending on how much rotation the linkage actually goes through isn't it pretty unavoidable that any bearings in there will eventually be notchy?

    Not having complete rotation to keep lubricant spread evenly is a problem. One of the reasons, IIRC, that Turner uses a different solution.

    I'm hoping that once we get my next bike ordered and it comes in that things will have settled (it'll be an SB), but I look forward to some early quiet time with the bike in my "shop" scoping it out and tuning things.

    I don't know about you but I'm fanatical about my main ride and want to *know* it's AOK for whatever it is going to have to deal with.

    Even factoring my virtual "hourly rate" - as if I were paid to work on my bikes - I still can't afford to pay someone else to be that nutty about my bike before they hand it over to me. I'm expecting 3-6 hours of checking things out after the LBS hands it over.

    Which of course my wife will JUST not understand.

  29. #29
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    Its all about customer service at this point..

    I'm a partner in small product design consultancy and have worked in manufcturing for the past 20yrs so find myself quite tolerant of the odd manufacturing/production faux pas what is non negotiable on any high end product is customer service.
    This is a known issue and should take at most a couple of days to close out after all how long does it take to put a couple of bearings in an envelope and put it in the post out tray ?
    Personaly if I'm paying £2000 for a bicycle frame I 'expect' it to turn up on my doorstep correctly assembled and ready for me just to fit my choice of components, if I feel I that I have to double check that every every nut bolt and washer has been assembled/manufactured correctly then I have bought from the wrong manufacturer.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritPOP View Post
    I'm a partner in small product design consultancy and have worked in manufcturing for the past 20yrs so find myself quite tolerant of the odd manufacturing/production faux pas what is non negotiable on any high end product is customer service.
    This is a known issue and should take at most a couple of days to close out after all how long does it take to put a couple of bearings in an envelope and put it in the post out tray ?
    Personaly if I'm paying £2000 for a bicycle frame I 'expect' it to turn up on my doorstep correctly assembled and ready for me just to fit my choice of components, if I feel I that I have to double check that every every nut bolt and washer has been assembled/manufactured correctly then I have bought from the wrong manufacturer.
    And the question that begs an answer....why are the frames with the incorrect bearings not being recalled before they get sent out to the consumer?????

    I can understand the fact that some frames are no longer in Yeti headquarters but out to the lbs's. Still, why can they not confine and control the issue? Seems like they are waiting for the end user to bring it to their attention. Seems like it should be the other way around. If the bikes are serialized and they have production dates of the wrong bearings being used then they should have record of suspect bikes and what shop's have bought them. With that knowledge they could send out replacement bearings to the shops, who in turn can fix their stock before sale, or contact existing customers. Sounds like a lot of work but I don't think it really is. Especially on a very very expensive frame purchase such as the 66.
    Last edited by eatdrinkride; 03-06-2012 at 07:23 PM.

  31. #31
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    Much as I love to tinker, what BritPOP & eatdrinkride say makes sense.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Much as I love to tinker, what BritPOP & eatdrinkride say makes sense.
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.
    I am with that/you as well!.
    Not sure what version I am riding, but I'd like to know and have it replaced if it is the single row.
    John P did say they have tested the bad parts extensively and found "only 2 failures" but I don't know how to make statistics out of this. He also said how to recognize the good parts but I am one of those who don't know how to take their bike apart and even if I knew I'd preffer them to just post the part numberts affected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    And were any of the 2012 SB-66's at risk of having the bad bearings?
    I have a 2012 XL SB-66 that needed the bearing fix. Yeti provided a one-page .pdf describing the bearing ID and replacement to a double-row version to its dealers, who forwarded to me. These are standard bearings and I was able to find the spec. sheets easily -- the correct bearing has a much higher static load rating so you really should make sure it is right.

    About a week so after receiving my frame, I took apart the Switch assembly (very nice and serviceable design), confirmed the bad bearing number, 63802VRS, requested replacement, 3802VRD, from my Internet "LBS," (free of course) and installed. After about 600 miles of eastern USA single-track so far (I am 6'3" and about 230# loaded), my SB-66 continues to be quiet, smooth, climbs like crazy, and for my size is the most comfortable bike I ever rode.

    There is absolutely no rubbing of tires or cable housings, creaks, squeaks or even rock chips in the paint. I am certain that this is the last mountain bike frame I will own...

    No worries -- buy the bike, or if you already own it, check your bearing numbers and replace if needed, and don't look back!

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    John P did say they have tested the bad parts extensively and found "only 2 failures" but I don't know how to make statistics out of this. He also said how to recognize the good parts but I am one of those who don't know how to take their bike apart and even if I knew I'd preffer them to just post the part numberts affected.
    Someone that has the bike torn down or accessible could help out with the latter, based on what John P has said. Shoot one of these pics floating around may be detailed enough, maybe.

    re:statistics

    All that means is that they didn't hit the problem. To me that only proves the sub-spec bearings *can* work not that they *will* work properly.

    Those in-house "rides" may have had more attentive assembly, and probably had more regular care than most of us bike-geeks in the wild provide to our mounts (apologies ahead of time to the q-tip/inch-oz-rated-torque-wrench brandishing population).

    I moved in '09 and now have zero personal experiences with the LBS wrenches, but then I do all my own maintenance now (because I enjoy it, it's great rainy-day bike-time, and it saves me money).

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Someone that has the bike torn down or accessible could help out with the latter, based on what John P has said. Shoot one of these pics floating around may be detailed enough, maybe.
    Thanks for your help bear but I am not sure I understand your suggestion
    I can not see the full pivot on the assembled bike. Maybe, if it is in one of the visable areas but I could not find it when I looked.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    ...I can not see the full pivot on the assembled bike. Maybe, if it is in one of the visable areas but I could not find it when I looked.
    The bearings (qty 2) in question are located on the outer portion of the eccentric axle (Switch). You need to disconnect the rear triangle from the Switch to see the bearing number impressed on the side of the seal.

    Note: do not force or pry the triangle from the Switch -- remove the through pins at all the connection points to free up the triangle and then gently lift it up and away from the Switch -- as I recall, it will only lift off in one direction.

    Per the Yeti .pdf, the "bad" single-row bearing number is 63802VRS; the "good" double-row bearing number is 3802VRD. The manufacturer appears to be "BOLU" -- here is a URL link to their Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    Working very carefully, it took me only about 90 minutes to take everything apart, change the bearings, and then lube and reassemble.

    In my opinion, this is not a very big deal. Yes, the correct bearing has a higher static load rating but I do not think the incorrect ones are necessarily defective. They could last a very long time. But one could probably spend more time and effort fretting about it than just checking it out and fixing it if needed....

    BTW: I love this bike....

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN

  38. #38
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    Thanks!.
    As said, this is too advanced for my wrenching capabilities. I will JRA for now(after a short injury) and hope for the best...........
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 03-07-2012 at 01:08 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Thanks for your help bear but I am not sure I understand your suggestion
    Sorry, I'd seen pics floating around where the rear triangle was taken off and showed the sides of the Switch, that is what I was thinking of.

    Thanks to kstovestand for the info. ;^)

  40. #40
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    The bike is easy to pull apart if you are looking to swap bearings. It took me about 5-10 minutes once I had all the components stripped off.
    I had the old bearings initially, but my dealer happily got me the correct ones.
    Pretty easy...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-photo0776.jpg  

    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Ya, I realize Yeti is not some major corporation with divisions set aside to handle 'recall' issues and the like. They are a small company of 8 or 10 or 12 people I presume. Still, when offering such a high dollar item a certain level of accountability should be expected. I do realize they are absolutely willing to make things right, nobody is questioning that, they are a stand up company that I have no problems buying from again and again. I just feel they could go a step further with this situation, that's all. This is a top of the line bike frame that is demanding top of the line dollars. People who don't frequent MTBR or search the net looking for issues with their new frame should not be in the dark on this one, imho.
    First of all, using the word "recall" is incorrect. This is not a safety issue because the bike isn't going to miraculously implode if the bearings get rough.

    I'm not saying Yeti shouldn't have caught this through testing and/or quality assurance because they should have ... but they didn't. Some of the frames may get rough bearings, including mine, but it's not the end of the world and DOES NOT justify taking a batch of frames back from all over the world to replace some $2 bearings.

    They should be replacing them very quickly when any issue crops up. That's it.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  42. #42
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    I never suggested they take back all the bikes. Just send out $2 bearings to all the shops who bought bikes with the INCORRECT bearings and let them handle it from there.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    I never suggested they take back all the bikes. Just send out $2 bearings to all the shops who bought bikes with the INCORRECT bearings and let them handle it from there.
    Again, this is not a recall so it shouldn't be treated as one. For any non-safety related issue it is common practice in any industry to replace only the defective units. Just because the bearings are not to specification doesn't mean they won't work just find (as John P has stated). In cases like this there normally would be a service bulletin sent out to alert dealers to the issue and to direct them on the repair. Internet purchases definitely make this harder to work out but it is still possible.

    I have one of the first frames around and my bearings have been fine even after fall and winter in rainy, muddy Vancouver with many hose washings. At 230 lbs I'm hardly easy on my suspension. I will be checking mine soon but there is nothing to worry about now.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Again, this is not a recall so it shouldn't be treated as one. For any non-safety related issue it is common practice in any industry to replace only the defective units. Just because the bearings are not to specification doesn't mean they won't work just find (as John P has stated). In cases like this there normally would be a service bulletin sent out to alert dealers to the issue and to direct them on the repair. Internet purchases definitely make this harder to work out but it is still possible.

    I have one of the first frames around and my bearings have been fine even after fall and winter in rainy, muddy Vancouver with many hose washings. At 230 lbs I'm hardly easy on my suspension. I will be checking mine soon but there is nothing to worry about now.
    Are your bearings single row or double?

  45. #45
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    Like I said, I have one of the first frames out ... they're single row.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  46. #46
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    Interesting, my first set died pretty fast, and the replacements I got sent were the VRS type, I didn't pick up on this till last night when I changed all the other bearing over, and have gone for around 3 weeks, looks like I'll have to get some VRD's sent to me.

  47. #47
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    Anyone got charged when they took their sb66 to their local dealer to get the switch bearings looked at when they were making noise?

    I got charged for a lube job and some bs without even being notified that additional work that I did not request was being done. .

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    I got charged for a lube job and some bs without even being notified that additional work that I did not request was being done. .
    Signs of a crap shop if you ask me.

    Or un-trained people at the shop, one.

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    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.
    I contacted my Internet LBS (JensonUSA) -- they were well aware of the Yeti replacements and sent them out straightaway -- no charge, of course. Both Yeti (JP) and the folks at JensonUSA were very responsive and great to work with.

    BTW, I did find some BOLU bearing equivalents (about $5 or so) by doing a few Google searches, but why not get them for free from your LBS Yeti dealer -- hope this helps.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS

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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    Attached Files Attached Files

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    thanks for the file chief

  53. #53
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    Correct Bearings ?

    Sight word of caution based on my experience. I ended up having to wait 4 weeks to get a set of Yeti replacement bearings through the distributor and got a bit fustrated waiting so bought a set of industry standard double row bearings (sealed, caged bearing). When I fitted these I followed Yeti's instructions and torqued the pivot shaft to 90in/lb and notched/indexed the bearings quite badly. In retrospect the recommended torque seems high to me as all you are effectively looking to do is pre load the bearing slightly, holding the shaft in place is done by the pich bolts at each end. Can't vouch for the quality of the bearings I used either ?.
    Luckily by this time I had recieved the bearings from Yeti so instaled these but used only about a third of the recommended torque and they seem OK.
    My second point is that the bearings I recieved as replacement form Yeti were Enduro bearings NOT Bolu ones. Their number is the same as that which appears in the current owners manual (downloadable from Yeti website) BEARING 3802 2RS MAX. These are not caged bearings but are full compliment bearings (mores balls, no cage) and are better for higher loaded slow rotation applications. They have higher radial and axial loading capacities.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Signs of a crap shop if you ask me.

    Or un-trained people at the shop, one.

    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  56. #56
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    Thanks again for the reply.

    Sent email yesterday. Will be shopping for needles bearings if I get the okay from Yeti. I just want to ride my bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  57. #57
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    Just got mine from yeti, the model number is "3802 LLU MAX"

  58. #58
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    Hi there anyone can help me to see if these are the correct or wrong bearings :S
    http://ap1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7969670/p4pb7969670.jpg
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

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    Hi all,

    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05408.jpg  


  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.
    Now that's a properly [ab]used bike!

    Any reason NOT to flush it with penetrating oil, like WD-40?

    Would need to be cleaned out afterwards, but seems to help get press-fit bearings out of things well enough to me.

    Probably take a couple "shots" and some "soaking."

  61. #61
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    gotcha. giving it a go.

    edit: this is the incorrect bearing, ya?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-bad-bearings.jpg  

    Last edited by skrrtch; 05-02-2012 at 05:48 AM. Reason: cos i took another photo

  62. #62
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    The VRS type is the single row bearings, according to earlier posts.

    Not the bet/most-correct from what has been shared.


    Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by caffeine

  63. #63
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    Dudes any video, manual, help of how to change the bearings ?
    Last edited by emeterio; 05-03-2012 at 07:47 AM.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  64. #64
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Hi there, I finally changed all 8 bearings of the bike (I had to buy the complete kit, no warranty, I just dont want to lose more time, store to yeti - yeti to store mails ) have to say I was amazed the bearings just work for 7 months, of the 8 bearings I totally fried 4, 2 had a little problems and the other 2 where working fine, but well I changed all 8. I wish this new bearings work for more time, because dont want to change bearings every 7 months !!!

    I will post later if this bearings where better than the last ones.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  65. #65
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    it's going to be interesting to me to see how long they last for me too, once I get the bike.

    my home area is not known for being dry and dusty, there will be moisture and mud. I'm accustomed to the bearing wear pattern of my old bike (e.g. very low, last 3+ years for the main pivot and 6+ for the rest - Titus Quasi-Moto) so we'll see.

    I definitely feel like I need to order the spare set as soon as I get my new bike though.

  66. #66
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    Large Bearings That House The Pivot

    Hi,

    Had my SB66 for 3 moths now & have devoloped creaking on strip down i found that the bearings inside the pivot were fine, however the large ones that sit in the frame that house the switch pivot have failed.

    Has anyone else had the same problem?

    Thanks

  67. #67
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    Just a thought

    When I replaced the original switch pivot bearings with the correct ones I noticed that it would be possible to run this area 'wet' (ie fill the houseing containing the switch pivot with oil.). When I looked at the picture of the mud encrusted bearing from the previous post it made me think about it again. I'm not sure how effective the large 'x'ring seals would be at containing the oil but long term I think it may be better to have a bit of oil seaping out, than it is to have mud and water going in the oppposite direction ?

    PS. I tend to run the bottom brackets of my bikes wet (inside the plastic tube) once they have lost their newnes and it seems to work, freeing up stiff bearings and extending their life a bit.

  68. #68
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    Bring on bearing replacements under warranty, Yeti.

    Other companies are doing it - Santa cruz = lifetime warranty/free replacement. Orange = 5 year warranty on pivot bearings. but for yeti, 6 months in and you have to buy a new set yourself.

    small company should equal better, individual customer care. Unfortunately it feels like we're left here holding the can on these bearings and lack of thought re - insulating them from wet, muddy conditions.

    How is e.g. this upper pivot bearing supposed to last?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05380.jpg  


  69. #69
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    doesn't exactly make it easy to sell the frame onto a friend does it? great ride, perfect aggressive geometry, climbs like a goat and looks beautiful. Oh, and you'll need to strip it down on a weekly basis and get yourself hundreds of dollars worth of bearings a year to keep it running. nice job!

  70. #70
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Cracked SB66 Rear triangle -- am i the first one ?

    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery

  71. #71
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    well that's a drag!

    first i've heard of and i've been watching the Yeti forum closely since last fall.

  72. #72
    bog
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery
    My guess is that you simply have a defective weld that has gone bad because the crack is right along the root of the weld. Hopefully this isn't a high stress point and we don't see any others.

    Yeti should take care of you and there's no reason that you shouldn't ride the new rear triangle just as hard.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  73. #73
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    Does anyone know what is a good way to remove those upper pivot bearings?

    There is not enough space for a bearing puller nor a vice. Thanks in advance.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.
    Yours is the only one I've heard of. I've had mine since December and ride it a lot harder than what you describe.

  75. #75
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    Don't think you are the first. I cracked mine about a month ago in the same spot. Yeti was good about replacing it, but dealing with my LBS was a real pain in the ass.

  76. #76
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    May you post some pics ?
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by emeterio View Post
    May you post some pics ?
    I just looked again and mine was on the left side of the weld, Yeti handled the issue very quickly and to my satisfaction. Excellent Yeti customer service. It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.


  78. #78
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    Interesting that both of the failures above are on the drive side. SB-95 has the strut joining the chain and seat stays on both sides- SB-66 only on the non-drive side. Wonder if next year we will see the strut on both sides for the 66.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I just looked again and mine was on the left side of the weld, Yeti handled the issue very quickly and to my satisfaction. Excellent Yeti customer service. It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.

    This is the same location my SB-66 just failed last Friday as well. Happened on my second practice run while pre-riding stages for an Enduro Race (Bend Enduro in Oregon) this past weekend. I wasn't a happy camper with the break of course. I wasn't able to do the race on my favorite riding rig and had to eat the $$$ registration fees, travel/gas, time off from work/family, etc. Came home empty handed and waiting for a rear replacement from Yeti/LBS as we speak. I am about 215lbs geared, ride 3x/wk max, mostly trail/AM stuff with some lite FR/DH here and there with all climbing to descents with no gap jumps or big drops. I have been riding the bike for a bit over 5 months now and expected it to last much longer under these circumstances as I came to Yeti due to early frame failure problems with previosly owned AM bike (Banshee Rune). At this time, I am pondering to try to sell the SB and look for something else that may be a bit stronger (Knolly Chilcotin, IBIS HD) for me as I loved how the SB rode and fit for most trail/AM applications, or just ride it with new rear end and hope it doesn't fail again at this location. I too think that the location where it broke is little too thinned down in material (width) due to asymmetrical design of the rear chain stays and is a weak link for heavier, more aggro trail riders at least. I thought the SB was quite possibly the "holy grail" of most fun, durable/heavy duty trail bikes out there, but not sure at this point
    Ride On!

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Interesting that both of the failures above are on the drive side. SB-95 has the strut joining the chain and seat stays on both sides- SB-66 only on the non-drive side. Wonder if next year we will see the strut on both sides for the 66.
    Maybe yes, but I don't need to be a mechanical engineer to figure out the 29 wheel generates higher leverages/forces on the welds than a 26 wheel does. So you can make the triangle beefier or add the strut?

  81. #81
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    jgusta, that just sucks, all around. :^( I feel your pain, but I'd not get "down" on the frame *yet*

  82. #82
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    And i thought i was the first one in the world to crack the SB 66
    i wonder how many already did brake the rear triangle on this pretty new model.
    hope it was a defective weld, and not something that gonna repeat itself.

    I bought my bike from official yeti dealer, and after only 3 days was called in to replace the broken triangle, after they send the necessary documentation and photos to yeti.
    this is an excellent service.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Maybe yes, but I don't need to be a mechanical engineer to figure out the 29 wheel generates higher leverages/forces on the welds than a 26 wheel does. So you can make the triangle beefier or add the strut?
    My (long ago) structures education would say adding the strut is the stronger solution. Interesting thing is that the braking side would have the higher rotational moment applied to the frame; I am guessing that is why the strut is on that side.

    Having said that, if they have isolated the issue down to a single welder using faulty technique/materials/etc, then the issue should be resolved from here.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.
    Yep, exactly the same thing with my 7 when I warrantied the chain stay. Same shop.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    jgusta, that just sucks, all around. :^( I feel your pain, but I'd not get "down" on the frame *yet*
    Thanks for the cheer-up as I love the bike (minus a lot of chain slap in the rough that can be easily remedied with clutch derailleur). Just a little bummed cause I went thru all of this with previous bike and three frames in less in 2 yrs. Was hoping the Yeti was going to be a lot more durable for me for this class of bike. Yes, it is still a very fun bike to ride and I am not ready to fully give up on it yet. Just want something that I can depend to get a solid season out of, if not two.
    Ride On!

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    This is the same location my SB-66 just failed last Friday as well. Happened on my second practice run while pre-riding stages for an Enduro Race (Bend Enduro in Oregon) this past weekend. I wasn't a happy camper with the break of course. I wasn't able to do the race on my favorite riding rig and had to eat the $$$ registration fees, travel/gas, time off from work/family, etc. Came home empty handed and waiting for a rear replacement from Yeti/LBS as we speak. I am about 215lbs geared, ride 3x/wk max, mostly trail/AM stuff with some lite FR/DH here and there with all climbing to descents with no gap jumps or big drops. I have been riding the bike for a bit over 5 months now and expected it to last much longer under these circumstances as I came to Yeti due to early frame failure problems with previosly owned AM bike (Banshee Rune). At this time, I am pondering to try to sell the SB and look for something else that may be a bit stronger (Knolly Chilcotin, IBIS HD) for me as I loved how the SB rode and fit for most trail/AM applications, or just ride it with new rear end and hope it doesn't fail again at this location. I too think that the location where it broke is little too thinned down in material (width) due to asymmetrical design of the rear chain stays and is a weak link for heavier, more aggro trail riders at least. I thought the SB was quite possibly the "holy grail" of most fun, durable/heavy duty trail bikes out there, but not sure at this point
    My 66 is roughly the same age so I'm wondering if they were just a bad run of welds. In any case the new one has been fine so far but thats not to say that I don't think about it failing again. I'm still going to ride it as much and as fast as possible though.

    Now on the other hand the creaking in the pivots is a nightmare. My pivots creak horribly and no matter how many times I take them apart and clean them the creaking always comes back after a few rides. And yes I have the new switch pivot bearings.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Having said that, if they have isolated the issue down to a single welder using faulty technique/materials/etc, then the issue should be resolved from here.
    Hope it's realy the welder and he did not weld too many frames.
    The bike realy look and feel so solid, touch wood.
    Hard to understand...........

  88. #88
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    I just put my SB66 together on April. First ride was on April 29 and I put a little over 90 miles and can hear a cracking sound coming from the link area. Its a 2012 model it came with a paint chip on the head tube. Looks like the primer or first coat of paint was chipped and than it was painted over. It will be so disappointing to have a bad set of bearings on that frame. Maybe an Ibis Mojo HD would had been a better choice.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thiago7 View Post
    I just put my SB66 together on April. First ride was on April 29 and I put a little over 90 miles and can hear a cracking sound coming from the link area. Its a 2012 model it came with a paint chip on the head tube. Looks like the primer or first coat of paint was chipped and than it was painted over. It will be so disappointing to have a bad set of bearings on that frame. Maybe an Ibis Mojo HD would had been a better choice.
    Thiago
    sorry to hear about head tube paint. When I demoed the bike, I knew the paint was not the best part of it even though mine still looks great.
    As for the creaks, I found that I need to apply a drop of lube to the bearing every 1-2 rides.
    Than it disapears but will reapear if I don't lube again
    never ridden an HD but the Mojo is a nice bike just not even close to the SB imo
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 06-05-2012 at 10:39 PM.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    As for the creaks, I found that I need to apply a drop of lube to the bearing every 1-2 rides.
    Than it disapears but will reapear if I don't lube again
    never ridden an HD but the Mojo is a nice bike just not even close to the SB imo
    This just doesn't sound good. I've had several Yeti's over the years and none of them have had pivots creak as much as my 66.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    This just doesn't sound good. I've had several Yeti's over the years and none of them have had pivots creak as much as my 66.
    I've had my SB66 since December and I've ridden it a ton due to the mild winter/spring here. No creaks at all. Wonder what is causing yours?

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    I've had my SB66 since December and I've ridden it a ton due to the mild winter/spring here. No creaks at all. Wonder what is causing yours?
    My thought is maybe there is a bad bearing besides the switch pivots that were replaced under warranty. I'm thinking about just ordering the whole kit and replacing them all.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    My thought is maybe there is a bad bearing besides the switch pivots that were replaced under warranty. I'm thinking about just ordering the whole kit and replacing them all.
    Mine started creaking after gently washing the bike. Don't wash it any more.
    I ride very dusty trails but my bike saw very little mud since purchased.
    I have a new/good switch waiting for me at my LBS but I don't believe the switch is creaking on mine, since I never touch it besides dusting.
    Anyways, my 575 did creak from time to time and at times even badly.
    Do I want to hear only my breath when pedaling?, sure do. However I never achieved this for more tahn 1-3 rides since I moved to FS 6 years ago.
    True I rode only Yeti FSs except demoes but people around me creaked and even replaced bearings all the time where I did nothing except lubing the 575 for 5.5 years.
    I understand that I can not expect the same reliability from the SB as it has a way more complex design but hope it will serve me well.
    BTW, I craked my 575 after 4 years and saw all frames broken on MTBR and I don't think there is a bike that never breaks. I believe I saw broken Knollys, many Turners and so on.
    Santa Cruz had great issues with VPP and took some years to improve but some poeple never gave up on their Nomads.
    Not sure if I am trying to defend Yeti or relax my concerns but I have no expectation towards perfect reliability as I ride MTBs for some years now and spend some time reading others reports.
    If the SB continue to ride like it does for 2 years, I can live with some lubing. BTW, I lube my chain every ride or otherwise it beacomes dry and noisy and probaly eat faster chain and sprockets.
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 06-06-2012 at 09:07 AM.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Mine started creaking after gently washing the bike. Don't wash it any more.
    I ride very dusty trails but my bike saw very little mud since purchased.
    I have a new/good switch waiting for me at my LBS but I don't believe the switch is creaking on mine, since I never touch it besides dusting.
    Anyways, my 575 did creak from time to time and at times even badly.
    Do I want to hear only my breath when pedaling?, sure does. However I never achieved this for more tahn 1-3 rides since I moved to FS 6 years ago.
    True I rode only Yeti FSs except demoes but people around me creaked and even replaced bearings all the time where I did nothing except lubing the 575 for 5.5 years.
    I understand that I can not expect the same reliability from the SB as it has a way more complex design but hope it will serve me well.
    BTW, I craked my 575 after 4 years and saw all frames broken on MTBR and I don't think there is a bike that never breaks. I believe I saw broken Knollys, many Turners and so on.
    Santa Cruz had great issues with VPP and took some years to improve but some poeple never gave up on their Nomads.
    Not sure if I am trying to defend Yeti or relax my concerns but I have no expectation towards perfect reliability as I ride MTBs for some years now and spend some time reading others reports.
    If the SB continue to ride like it does for 2 years, I can leav with some lubing. BTW, I lube my chain every ride or otherwise it beacomes dry and noisy and probaly eat faster chain and sprockets.
    Greenbonty,
    I agree. Like I said before I have had many Yetis over the years and plan to stick with the brand. There is just something about their bikes that keeps me coming back. It will all break if ridden hard enough and in rought enough conditions so I agree with that. The creaking is mainly just a frustration thing for me as you spend time maintaining the pivots only for the creaking to come back after 2 rides. Anyhoo, I'll just clean and grease them again over a few beers one evening.

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    Broken drive side chainstay?

    TB,

    Did you happen to notice any cracks in the stay before it went? I just installed some cranks not too long ago before my chain stay broke at exact same spot as yours. I clean and go through my bike fairly thoroughly before each ride and didn't notice any cracks at all. My gut tells me the stay just went at this spot without much warning. Similar experience to what you had? I am patiently waiting for new stay at this time as it is suppose to be in the mail. Happy Yeti is taking care of me for sure, but feels like forever and I am borrowing someone else's bike in the meantime...just not the same.

    Thx,
    JG
    Ride On!

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    TB,

    Did you happen to notice any cracks in the stay before it went? I just installed some cranks not too long ago before my chain stay broke at exact same spot as yours. I clean and go through my bike fairly thoroughly before each ride and didn't notice any cracks at all. My gut tells me the stay just went at this spot without much warning. Similar experience to what you had? I am patiently waiting for new stay at this time as it is suppose to be in the mail. Happy Yeti is taking care of me for sure, but feels like forever and I am borrowing someone else's bike in the meantime...just not the same.

    Thx,
    JG
    No I didn't. I was cleaning my bike and trying to diagnose creaks when I found it. I probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise. To me it looks like it was a bad weld. As I mentioned before the replacement swingarm has been fine and I'm riding about 3 times a week with technical rocky trail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    Bring on bearing replacements under warranty, Yeti.

    Other companies are doing it - Santa cruz = lifetime warranty/free replacement. Orange = 5 year warranty on pivot bearings. but for yeti, 6 months in and you have to buy a new set yourself.

    small company should equal better, individual customer care. Unfortunately it feels like we're left here holding the can on these bearings and lack of thought re - insulating them from wet, muddy conditions.

    How is e.g. this upper pivot bearing supposed to last?
    I had mine since November, and one of my upper bearings is stuck. STUCK. Well, checked the manual, and it seems it is not as per specification either. It is speced as an angular contact (7903 2RS MAX), but is something else (6903 VRS). Definitely a warranty claim but what will be faster? Ordering a kit from Enduro Fork seals or wait for my LBS to get their feet out their ass and get me some real ones. I think I will try both..

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    I had mine since November, and one of my upper bearings is stuck. STUCK. Well, checked the manual, and it seems it is not as per specification either. It is speced as an angular contact (7903 2RS MAX), but is something else (6903 VRS). Definitely a warranty claim but what will be faster? Ordering a kit from Enduro Fork seals or wait for my LBS to get their feet out their ass and get me some real ones. I think I will try both..
    If you have a LBS who is a Yeti dealer (especially at site of bike purchase) and has good/decent rapport with Yeti and is willing to get a hold of them for potential replacement (at cost or warranty) that is the way to go, IMO. As that is what I did in early 12/2011 and received the upgraded ("correct") bearings for frame within a weeks time. If you don't have much faith in LBS or Yeti to warranty the bearings and you know the specific bearings you need, I would definitely go that route instead. Looks like you covered yourself either way though . I imagine if your LBS is slammed right now and don't have someone who is willing to "go out of their way" for you, then it would more than likely not get done, especially if you didn't buy the bike from them. When I had frame problems with previous bikes that I didn't buy locally, I was always on my own to get it fixed or corrective part.
    Ride On!

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    Bogus! This bike has been high on my radar, but between the creaky bearings and now broken swingarms it seems yeti has some bugs to iron out. Plain & simple this is to heavy of a frame to break in 6 months, not to mention hoped it would be latterly stiffer. I feel for ya jgusta as I am going through the banshee warranty headaches currently and don't want to take a chance at buying into a brand that may have issues. Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now.......

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by big JC View Post
    Bogus! This bike has been high on my radar, but between the creaky bearings and now broken swingarms it seems yeti has some bugs to iron out. Plain & simple this is to heavy of a frame to break in 6 months, not to mention hoped it would be latterly stiffer. I feel for ya jgusta as I am going through the banshee warranty headaches currently and don't want to take a chance at buying into a brand that may have issues. Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now.......
    That stinks, hope Banshee gets you sorted, They took good care or me in the past and hope they do the same for you. Their bushing pivot system is quite the headache for sure, nothing close to Turner reliability, function and ease of use/maintenance and made me want to go back to sealed bearings.

    FWIW, never had any problems with bearings/creaks on the SB-66 and made sure I had the upgraded ("proper") bearings installed before leaving the shop with new bike last early winter. It was bit of a surprise for the rearend to go like it did, especially in less than 6 months (the biggest bummer was that it happened in an Enduro pre-race run last weekend). But, got new rear in 4 days from Yeti and installed courtesy of LBS. Apparently my first rear swingarm didn't have a serial number on it, indicating that it was part of a first frame batch or something, according to LBS/Yeti, and the new/replacement swingarm should last longer for whatever reason? The true test will be time of course. Other than that, I love how this bike rides. Fun and efficient like the Banshee, but a little plusher in it's travel and climbs tech better due to no pedal kickback and much better small bump and square edge hit performance. Feels a lot plusher on the trail with air shock than the Banshee did for sure.

    It seems like every new bike purchase is a gamble these days as far as reliability of frames goes. But, don't think you could go wrong with a IBIS HD or possibly a Knolly Chilcotin for longer durability for similar class of bike. I test rode a Chili last week here in town, felt good, very active FSR like, but pedals a little better than FSR. Think I like the Switch-link feel some better though. The Knolly looks pretty solid and don't hear of too many people breaking them. The IBIS HD would more than likely be the only carbon AM bike I would want to get as well. NomadC is a solid constructed frame as well for carbon, but don't like VPP all that much (rode like crap with DHX air at least when I demo'ed at Sandy last year) with similar build/specs as my Banshee Rune at the time.

    Good luck with your bike.

    "Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now......"

    Oh, if you are looking for a replacement for a Spitfire, I think the Turner 5.5 Spot would be the way to go for solid, long lasting trail bike frame with excellent bushings/pivots. If wanting a slacker trail bike, just put in a head angle set in there and at $1500-1600 for 2011 frames on closeout, American made, lifetime warranty, that's tough to beat, IMO. I don't think the upgraded 142x12mm for 2012 Spots vs a 135x10mm is worth the upgrade in cost as compared to 2011's. Just put a solid Hadley 135x10mm thru bolt axle in and is just about as stiff as a 142x12 QR maxle
    Last edited by jgusta; 06-08-2012 at 10:47 PM.
    Ride On!

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