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  1. #101
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    A LOT of SB-66-es have been sold, and there is a known issue that the bearings on one batch were sub spec. There are a few complaints here in this thread, and I honestly do not think there are too many more in the non-forum world.

    Problems with forums is that you always hear the complaints, but you do not necessarily hear the guys having no troubles and their product goes on and on and on without failing.

    So I am confident that when i upgrade the bearings, my bike will last "forever" until they are worn out - which happens.

    I will go for either SKF or Enduros for my part. The former because they are the top of the line and I am from Norway and SKF is Swedish - not far from the source, less carbon footprint, less waiting. More cash

    Anyway: the tech bulletin above only mentions the smaller switch bearings, but actually all bearings on mine were not according to the spec/manual:
    Large switch bearing 1 : 6808VRS
    Large switch bearing 2: 6809VRS
    Smaller switch bearngs: 63892VRS
    Upper shock link bearings: 6903VRSAGA
    Lower shock link bearings: 6902VRS (Those I actually had some replacements, but they were smooth as a baby's bottom still.)

    So a minor thing overlooked by QA, and some of us have problems.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    That stinks, hope Banshee gets you sorted, They took good care or me in the past and hope they do the same for you. Their bushing pivot system is quite the headache for sure, nothing close to Turner reliability, function and ease of use/maintenance and made me want to go back to sealed bearings.

    FWIW, never had any problems with bearings/creaks on the SB-66 and made sure I had the upgraded ("proper") bearings installed before leaving the shop with new bike last early winter. It was bit of a surprise for the rearend to go like it did, especially in less than 6 months (the biggest bummer was that it happened in an Enduro pre-race run last weekend). But, got new rear in 4 days from Yeti and installed courtesy of LBS. Apparently my first rear swingarm didn't have a serial number on it, indicating that it was part of a first frame batch or something, according to LBS/Yeti, and the new/replacement swingarm should last longer for whatever reason? The true test will be time of course. Other than that, I love how this bike rides. Fun and efficient like the Banshee, but a little plusher in it's travel and climbs tech better due to no pedal kickback and much better small bump and square edge hit performance. Feels a lot plusher on the trail with air shock than the Banshee did for sure.

    It seems like every new bike purchase is a gamble these days as far as reliability of frames goes. But, don't think you could go wrong with a IBIS HD or possibly a Knolly Chilcotin for longer durability for similar class of bike. I test rode a Chili last week here in town, felt good, very active FSR like, but pedals a little better than FSR. Think I like the Switch-link feel some better though. The Knolly looks pretty solid and don't hear of too many people breaking them. The IBIS HD would more than likely be the only carbon AM bike I would want to get as well. NomadC is a solid constructed frame as well for carbon, but don't like VPP all that much (rode like crap with DHX air at least when I demo'ed at Sandy last year) with similar build/specs as my Banshee Rune at the time.

    Good luck with your bike.

    "Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now......"

    Oh, if you are looking for a replacement for a Spitfire, I think the Turner 5.5 Spot would be the way to go for solid, long lasting trail bike frame with excellent bushings/pivots. If wanting a slacker trail bike, just put in a head angle set in there and at $1500-1600 for 2011 frames on closeout, American made, lifetime warranty, that's tough to beat, IMO. I don't think the upgraded 142x12mm for 2012 Spots vs a 135x10mm is worth the upgrade in cost as compared to 2011's. Just put a solid Hadley 135x10mm thru bolt axle in and is just about as stiff as a 142x12 QR maxle

    That's some really good feedback jgusta, thanks! So good infact I put the sb-66 back on top of my list. Never knew there was a serial# on the swingarm, usually just on the bb. Hopefully the broken swingarm is just a fluke, but that always seems to be the pattern on these forums when a problem arises. Lots of conjecture and wishful thinking untill more and more of the same problems surface.

    That is one of the things I always respected about Dave Turner, he never BS's about a problem. They own up to them when they arise and come up with a fix that works. With that said I have considered a 5 spot as I know they are super durable and easy to own. However even with an angleset ,if I run a 160 fork that puts the BB to high for my liking. I'm also right between sizes at 6'2". In a nut shell the 5 spot's geo is a little to old school for me which is why the sb-66 has my attention.

    I'm also highly considering a stumpjumper evo as the geo/travel/weight is ideal for me. The trek remedy is the other bike I'm considering although it has a kinda high BB as well. The trek is hands down the stiffest bike I have ever thrown a leg over. It literally has ZERO flex. At any rate I need to make up my mind quick, and will probably pull the trigger week after next as I have 4 day bike trip next weekend. You used cyclepath is that right jgusta? Sounds like they are treating you right I will have to check them out. Thanks for the input, and happy to hear you got your yeti sorted so quickly.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by big JC View Post
    That's some really good feedback jgusta, thanks! So good infact I put the sb-66 back on top of my list. Never knew there was a serial# on the swingarm, usually just on the bb. Hopefully the broken swingarm is just a fluke, but that always seems to be the pattern on these forums when a problem arises. Lots of conjecture and wishful thinking untill more and more of the same problems surface.

    That is one of the things I always respected about Dave Turner, he never BS's about a problem. They own up to them when they arise and come up with a fix that works. With that said I have considered a 5 spot as I know they are super durable and easy to own. However even with an angleset ,if I run a 160 fork that puts the BB to high for my liking. I'm also right between sizes at 6'2". In a nut shell the 5 spot's geo is a little to old school for me which is why the sb-66 has my attention.

    I'm also highly considering a stumpjumper evo as the geo/travel/weight is ideal for me. The trek remedy is the other bike I'm considering although it has a kinda high BB as well. The trek is hands down the stiffest bike I have ever thrown a leg over. It literally has ZERO flex. At any rate I need to make up my mind quick, and will probably pull the trigger week after next as I have 4 day bike trip next weekend. You used cyclepath is that right jgusta? Sounds like they are treating you right I will have to check them out. Thanks for the input, and happy to hear you got your yeti sorted so quickly.
    No probs, happy you got something out of that. Sounds like you are in between sizes like me and is why a med SB-66 fits me pretty much perfectly as most larges are too big and most standard med are too small/cramped for with me at 5'10.5". I think a large SB would fit you nicely with a 50mm or shorter stem since the ETT are so long on em'.

    FWIW, with an angleset and Spot should be able to still keep the BB around 13.5'ish" w/160 fork, as an angleset drops the BB about 1/4" for every degree as the 160 fork on a Spot raises it 1/4". The Remedy and Floater suspension is nice as well and fun to romp down the trails on. Cool they revised the HTA some for this year as that was my only beef when I demoed one at Sandy last year, front end felt too steep and low with 32/150 fork and at 68* HTA. I was pretty stoked when the Slash arrived to the seen this past year, but was after a frameset only and stoked on fit and ride of SB when I rode one late last year.

    Yep, Cyclepath has definitely been good to me since buying the Yeti from them. They took off, cleaned all my all old parts from the Banshee and built the SB up for me with just cost of frame. Had to buy a couple of small parts for compatiblity of course (headset, FD, tapered fork crown). If you are in the market for a Yeti, Pivot, or Turner I would definitely buy from them and deal with Cody if you do, he's the man

    Happy shopping, lots of good trail/AM rides to choose from for better or for worse
    Ride On!

  4. #104
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    I suppose you'll mainly see complaints as people look for soluitons to issues they are having with a newly designed 1st gen bike.
    Ultimately the feedback should result in a better bike for the 2nd gen etc so despite the negativity
    its often actually usefull. I'm sure there are 66 owners who have had issues and dont post here also... so it works both ways.

    Personally its a good all round bike but it does have some issues IMHO.
    I've had no issues so far with the switch bearing - but its eating shock bushings
    and the paint is as soft as butter. I ride rocky terrain and its looking a bit sad already compared
    to my black 08 575. It can get a bit creaky through the linkage and needs regular maintenance
    to keep it running sweetly (definitely need a torque wrench for those linkage bolts).

    Great bike but needs some TLC, well certainly the 2011s do no idea about the 2012s.

  5. #105
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    Well, I have 20-25 hours on my SB-66a and finally took it apart to check the bearings because the back end was feeling really bad. I already knew that my Switch bearings weren't all that good when I took it apart to replace the shock bushings a few months ago but I sure didn't expect to find what I found. The Switch bearings weren't much worse than before but all four upper link bearings were seized right up! I baby my bikes, haven't ridden this bike through the winter and only lever use the low pressure Shower setting on my hose nozzle when cleaning it (with a bucket and a brush).
    Needless to say, I'm not at all impressed with the bearing life on my SB-66. I guess it is time to shop for some decent bearings since Yeti is absolutely hosing us with their $120 bearing kit.
    Not impressed Yeti!
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  6. #106
    Long live the ASR-7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I suppose you'll mainly see complaints as people look for soluitons to issues they are having with a newly designed 1st gen bike.
    Ultimately the feedback should result in a better bike for the 2nd gen etc so despite the negativity
    its often actually usefull. I'm sure there are 66 owners who have had issues and dont post here also... so it works both ways.

    Personally its a good all round bike but it does have some issues IMHO.
    I've had no issues so far with the switch bearing - but its eating shock bushings
    and the paint is as soft as butter. I ride rocky terrain and its looking a bit sad already compared
    to my black 08 575. It can get a bit creaky through the linkage and needs regular maintenance
    to keep it running sweetly (definitely need a torque wrench for those linkage bolts).

    Great bike but needs some TLC, well certainly the 2011s do no idea about the 2012s.
    I've got a black 08 575 too and my buddies 66 paint already looks worse than mine and he's only had his 2012 for 2 months.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    Upper shock link bearings: 6903VRSAGA
    Lower shock link bearings: 6902VRS
    Hi, I am glad you brought this is up. I totally agree with you. Its a great ride but the issues seem to be a constant freak out. I just wish you can bypass the dealer and walk into Yeti for these issues. Now, I am worried about the life of my rear triangle (no serial) and getting charged extra by a dealer for calling into yeti for the warranty process.

    How did you pull/install the upper shock link bearings? Also, which Enduro bearings are the correct replacement for them? I cannot fit my bearing pullers in there. Thanks in advance.

    As for the paint issue, I have applied to Paint Protection Film (3M/Venture) to the frame immediately after receiving it and its been working very well.

  8. #108
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    SB66 my take

    Hi All

    I just test rode a SB66 today and was very impressed with the fit and ride. Am currently looking to replace my Intense 6.6 and am looking to address the flexy rear end and the pedal feed back , which the Yeti certainly did. Was blowing through the shock travel too easily (common complaint) but doesn't concern me as plan to build it with a CCDBair if I get one. Is at the top of my list at the moment, but all these bearing issues and frame brakes is a bit worrying , but here is my take on the issues.

    Bearings are a crittical part of any full suspension mountain bike so why can't the bike manufactures put some decent quaility and correctly speced units in. They are a very small part of the cost of building a frame but can cause so much grief. In my opinion Santa cruz are the only company that actually seemed to listen to the rider feed back after there first bad issues and put some proper resources into coming up with a industry leading design using the right type of bearing (and seals) for the loads incounted.
    One of the issues I see with alot of the bearings being used is that they are of the enduro brand. These are not bad bearings in general and are one of the only companies making MAX style bearings in the sizes bikes require, but unfortunately their seals suck. My intense 6.6 has suffered from bearing issues with the enduro bearings and in the end I modified a set of SKF bearings to MAX style bearings so i new I had the best bearings I could and it certainly made a massive difference to the life span of the bearings. The bottom ones still need to be stripped out and regreased once a year but atleast theyre not stuffed to the point of needing replacement every 6 months.

    As for the rear triangle breaks, when I picked the bike up for the test ride on thursday the one comment the very knowlegable bike mechanic made was to point out this area as a possible concern of his for frame breaks due to the design. He commented to me as to wondering if the casting/machined link was surface welded or some how inserted at this point as it would be a high stress area.
    As for people commenting on the bad welding. In general if the weld looks good and hasen't been smoothed off to hide a bad technique it will probably be a good weld on a high quality frame like this. The problem is that when you weld aluminium or steel with a tig or mig technique you actually weaken the material either side of the weld due to crystalization of the surrounding material from the heat. This is partially why the frames then need to be heat treated to try and normalize this material and lessen the effect. Unfortunately it will never be as strong as the original material, or the weld for that mattter and this is why you often see cracks appear at high stress zones either side of welds.

    Anyway just my two cents and hopefully might help clear up a bit of confusion.

    Just hope the Carbon SB66 is built to NomadC levels of strength, no worries then and no weld stress areas to worry about !

  9. #109
    bog
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritPOP View Post
    Sight word of caution based on my experience. I ended up having to wait 4 weeks to get a set of Yeti replacement bearings through the distributor and got a bit fustrated waiting so bought a set of industry standard double row bearings (sealed, caged bearing). When I fitted these I followed Yeti's instructions and torqued the pivot shaft to 90in/lb and notched/indexed the bearings quite badly. In retrospect the recommended torque seems high to me as all you are effectively looking to do is pre load the bearing slightly, holding the shaft in place is done by the pich bolts at each end. Can't vouch for the quality of the bearings I used either ?.
    Luckily by this time I had recieved the bearings from Yeti so instaled these but used only about a third of the recommended torque and they seem OK.
    My second point is that the bearings I recieved as replacement form Yeti were Enduro bearings NOT Bolu ones. Their number is the same as that which appears in the current owners manual (downloadable from Yeti website) BEARING 3802 2RS MAX. These are not caged bearings but are full compliment bearings (mores balls, no cage) and are better for higher loaded slow rotation applications. They have higher radial and axial loading capacities.
    I definitely agree that Yeti's recommended torque is far too high. As long as the axles are snug then everything should be held together nicely and last longer. I took my pivots apart after a while because I noticed quite a bit of friction in the system when I cycled it without my shock in place. The lower bearing pivot in the upper link was torqued so tight that the link would hardly rotate with quite a bit of force on it. This goes for the lower Switch bearing axle as well.

    One correction on MAX bearings though - they have lower axial load capacities because the outer race usually has a filling slot to get more balls in the bearing during assembly. This slot reduces the axial load capacity because the bearings have to roll over the very bottom of the slot when under high axial loads.
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  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Well, I have 20-25 hours on my SB-66a and finally took it apart to check the bearings because the back end was feeling really bad. I already knew that my Switch bearings weren't all that good when I took it apart to replace the shock bushings a few months ago but I sure didn't expect to find what I found. The Switch bearings weren't much worse than before but all four upper link bearings were seized right up! I baby my bikes, haven't ridden this bike through the winter and only lever use the low pressure Shower setting on my hose nozzle when cleaning it (with a bucket and a brush).
    Needless to say, I'm not at all impressed with the bearing life on my SB-66. I guess it is time to shop for some decent bearings since Yeti is absolutely hosing us with their $120 bearing kit.
    Not impressed Yeti!
    Follow-up: I contacted Jenson USA (where I bought my frame) looking for bearing help at least with the small switch bearings which were not to the correct specification. Jenson contacted Yeti and was told not to send me the correct bearings and that I should buy a bearing kit for $120! Of course I wasn't happy with that answer especially considering that Yeti published that bulletin stating that they had used the incorrect bearings on some frames (mine included). I contacted Yeti directly using the e-mail address on the bulletin and was told that they could not send me bearings and that I should contact Jenson. I e-mailed them back to tell that I had already contacted Jenson and they would not send me any of the bearings. It certainly looks like Yeti will not honor their bulletin.

    I'm definitely not supporting Yeti or Jenson by buying an overpriced bearing kit to replace the bearings that were incorrectly specified by Yeti. Even though it may seem like a small issue this is the second time that Yeti has been very difficult to deal with (the first was dealing with them on an incorrectly pressed in bearing/damaged swingarm on my new, out of box 575 frame).

    I'm buying a new 29er at the end of this month and was considering an SB95 but considering this poor level of support I'll be looking elsewhere.
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Follow-up: I contacted Jenson USA (where I bought my frame) looking for bearing help at least with the small switch bearings which were not to the correct specification. Jenson contacted Yeti and was told not to send me the correct bearings and that I should buy a bearing kit for $120! Of course I wasn't happy with that answer especially considering that Yeti published that bulletin stating that they had used the incorrect bearings on some frames (mine included). I contacted Yeti directly using the e-mail address on the bulletin and was told that they could not send me bearings and that I should contact Jenson. I e-mailed them back to tell that I had already contacted Jenson and they would not send me any of the bearings. It certainly looks like Yeti will not honor their bulletin.

    I'm definitely not supporting Yeti or Jenson by buying an overpriced bearing kit to replace the bearings that were incorrectly specified by Yeti. Even though it may seem like a small issue this is the second time that Yeti has been very difficult to deal with (the first was dealing with them on an incorrectly pressed in bearing/damaged swingarm on my new, out of box 575 frame).

    I'm buying a new 29er at the end of this month and was considering an SB95 but considering this poor level of support I'll be looking elsewhere.
    Bog,
    I have had a few warranty issues with my SB-66a including the bearings. Each time Yeti wanted me to go through the shop which is obviously Jenson in your case. If I were in your shoes I would push Jenson to get the correct bearings under warranty or ask them to take the bike back and refund your money. As the retailer that sold you the bike they have an obligation to warranty the 66 for you which has a 2 year warranty from Yeti. Escalate the issue at Jenson if you have to. As you mention Yeti made this issue public on MTBR a while ago so its not like they weren't replacing the bearings.

    Just my 2 cents. Hope it works out for you.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    Bog,
    I have had a few warranty issues with my SB-66a including the bearings. Each time Yeti wanted me to go through the shop which is obviously Jenson in your case. If I were in your shoes I would push Jenson to get the correct bearings under warranty or ask them to take the bike back and refund your money. As the retailer that sold you the bike they have an obligation to warranty the 66 for you which has a 2 year warranty from Yeti. Escalate the issue at Jenson if you have to. As you mention Yeti made this issue public on MTBR a while ago so its not like they weren't replacing the bearings.

    Just my 2 cents. Hope it works out for you.
    I agree with this. As an authorized dealer, Jensen is obligated to fulfill warranty claims. That's one of the reasons bike companies use a dealer network in lieu of selling direct to customer. I would not rely on Jenson's account of their response from Yeti unless you were copied on the email thread.

  13. #113
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    Also, while I can understand the principle of having this covered under warranty, there's no need to purchase a complete bearing kit to replace the Switch bearings. A pair of the 3802 2RS Max bearings can be purchased for around $30.

  14. #114
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    Going on two months now and no bearings from Jenson and/or Yeti!

    Well I've been extremely patient with these guys and nothing seems to be getting done. It looks like I'll have to pay to get some of the correct bearings which really sucks since Yeti put out the bulletin about the bearings.

    Considering that this is my second bit of awful service from Yeti (575 frame also) I'll be stripping the parts off of the frame, rebuilding the bearings then selling it. I really don't want to have to deal with Yeti and/or Jenson on any further issues especially if the frame ends up cracking like some of the others.
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  15. #115
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    My take:

    On my second set of main pivot bearings, 3rd swingarm, and 2nd dogbone with really not much riding. Even though I love the ride I'm not impressed with the quality of this first year bike at all. Seems to me there is room for improvement.

    I will say that I haven't had any issues with Yeti warranty replacement though. Each time they have replaced the part very quick. I won't buy another first year run from these guys however their customer service is still really great.

    Sorry to hear you are having going issues with the bearings getting replaced. If I were in your spot and Jenson wouldn't full fill their warranty obligation I would ask them to take the bike back and refund your money. If they aren't holding up their end of the bargain that seems pretty reasonable to me.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    ... with really not much riding ...
    Just wondering, but what do you mean by "not much riding" ... in time/distance trail-type?

    You've a krazy sad litany of broken bits, honestly.

  17. #117
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    Average of 2 times a week various Austin riding which you know about. Owned the bike 8 months apprx 4 months off due to injury/time constraints.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    Average of 2 times a week various Austin riding which you know about. Owned the bike 8 months apprx 4 months off due to injury/time constraints.
    man, I know the ATX trails can be harsh on the equipment (been there done that...), but your experience is nutz!

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Follow-up: I contacted Jenson USA (where I bought my frame) looking for bearing help at least with the small switch bearings which were not to the correct specification. Jenson contacted Yeti and was told not to send me the correct bearings and that I should buy a bearing kit for $120! Of course I wasn't happy with that answer especially considering that Yeti published that bulletin stating that they had used the incorrect bearings on some frames (mine included). I contacted Yeti directly using the e-mail address on the bulletin and was told that they could not send me bearings and that I should contact Jenson. I e-mailed them back to tell that I had already contacted Jenson and they would not send me any of the bearings. It certainly looks like Yeti will not honor their bulletin.

    I'm definitely not supporting Yeti or Jenson by buying an overpriced bearing kit to replace the bearings that were incorrectly specified by Yeti. Even though it may seem like a small issue this is the second time that Yeti has been very difficult to deal with (the first was dealing with them on an incorrectly pressed in bearing/damaged swingarm on my new, out of box 575 frame).

    I'm buying a new 29er at the end of this month and was considering an SB95 but considering this poor level of support I'll be looking elsewhere.
    I contacted Jensen about the bearings and they overnighted a new set the next day.

    The one thing I did notice is after removing the shock and moving the swingarm by hand, when the switch changes direction I can feel a notch or a click in the swing arm, it's audible as well. I think it's more pronounced when extending the travel.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by bog View Post
    Well I've been extremely patient with these guys and nothing seems to be getting done. It looks like I'll have to pay to get some of the correct bearings which really sucks since Yeti put out the bulletin about the bearings.

    Considering that this is my second bit of awful service from Yeti (575 frame also) I'll be stripping the parts off of the frame, rebuilding the bearings then selling it. I really don't want to have to deal with Yeti and/or Jenson on any further issues especially if the frame ends up cracking like some of the others.
    In reading all of these complaints it does seem Yeti is having some first year issues with the SB series. I'm sure they expected some issues to show up after getting the bikes in the hands of the general public. Hopefully those will be addressed and corrected in short manner.
    To hold Yeti accountable for Jenson's issue is concerning though. Yes Yeti should not have told Jenson to ask their customer to buy a replacement bearing kit to fix the problem. A dealer the size of Jenson should have asked Yeti, and Yeti should have supplied replacement bearings for them to have on hand so these issues would have a quick solution and response. 1 kit for every SB series bike they sold to Jenson. It's not hard to do.
    In my opinion this is what it all comes down to. Don't buy bikes from Jenson. They are great to buy discounted parts and accessories, but not for buying bikes. Obviously they do not care to address your issue with Yeti, and I would bet money that their in house customer service person just thought is was easier for you to go on Yeti's website and buy a new bearing kit than to deal with it themselves. Buying big ticket items on the interweb is not something I choose to do for this reason.
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  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery
    My friend's frame just cracked in the exact same spot.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by F2a View Post
    My friend's frame just cracked in the exact same spot.
    I've had two rearends go at same spot. First one totally failed (more than likely had crack before noticing) and the other I got a crack at same spot about 1.5 months later on the replacement rear end that I got before cracking all the way through (rear end didn't feel as stiff, a little squirrely on me like someone took a bunch of pressure out of my rear tire). Whereas, when the first once failed through, I had senation of loose backend, but also would get significant tire buzz without bottoming the shock when landing anything over 1 foot off the ground. So far, the latest replacement one has lasted over a month now, but had to replace all eccentric bearings due to play and notchiness there before an Enduro race in only after 8 months of use with regular external cleaning of all pivots with rag and toothbrush after and before every ride and minimal bad weather riding over last winter. More or less a typicall maintenance/wear and tear issue, but was hoping to get a least a year out of the bearings since I clean my bike regularly.
    Ride On!

  23. #123
    F2a
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    Very interesting. My sb-66a is creaking a lot in the rear and i don't think it's the chips (I cleaned and greased them recently). I'm going to have to take a look at the bearings asap.

  24. #124
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    Had the squeaks with my 66a. Greased the linkage, Switch and chips and still no relief. turned out it was the freehub body. Whooda guessed.

  25. #125
    F2a
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    Was something wrong with the freehub body or did you just tighten it?

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