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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    thanks for the file chief

  3. #53
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    Correct Bearings ?

    Sight word of caution based on my experience. I ended up having to wait 4 weeks to get a set of Yeti replacement bearings through the distributor and got a bit fustrated waiting so bought a set of industry standard double row bearings (sealed, caged bearing). When I fitted these I followed Yeti's instructions and torqued the pivot shaft to 90in/lb and notched/indexed the bearings quite badly. In retrospect the recommended torque seems high to me as all you are effectively looking to do is pre load the bearing slightly, holding the shaft in place is done by the pich bolts at each end. Can't vouch for the quality of the bearings I used either ?.
    Luckily by this time I had recieved the bearings from Yeti so instaled these but used only about a third of the recommended torque and they seem OK.
    My second point is that the bearings I recieved as replacement form Yeti were Enduro bearings NOT Bolu ones. Their number is the same as that which appears in the current owners manual (downloadable from Yeti website) BEARING 3802 2RS MAX. These are not caged bearings but are full compliment bearings (mores balls, no cage) and are better for higher loaded slow rotation applications. They have higher radial and axial loading capacities.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Signs of a crap shop if you ask me.

    Or un-trained people at the shop, one.

    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  6. #56
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    Thanks again for the reply.

    Sent email yesterday. Will be shopping for needles bearings if I get the okay from Yeti. I just want to ride my bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  7. #57
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    Just got mine from yeti, the model number is "3802 LLU MAX"

  8. #58
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    Hi there anyone can help me to see if these are the correct or wrong bearings :S
    http://ap1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7969670/p4pb7969670.jpg
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  9. #59
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    Hi all,

    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05408.jpg  


  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.
    Now that's a properly [ab]used bike!

    Any reason NOT to flush it with penetrating oil, like WD-40?

    Would need to be cleaned out afterwards, but seems to help get press-fit bearings out of things well enough to me.

    Probably take a couple "shots" and some "soaking."

  11. #61
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    gotcha. giving it a go.

    edit: this is the incorrect bearing, ya?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-bad-bearings.jpg  

    Last edited by skrrtch; 05-02-2012 at 06:48 AM. Reason: cos i took another photo

  12. #62
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    The VRS type is the single row bearings, according to earlier posts.

    Not the bet/most-correct from what has been shared.


    Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by caffeine

  13. #63
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    Dudes any video, manual, help of how to change the bearings ?
    Last edited by emeterio; 05-03-2012 at 08:47 AM.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  14. #64
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Hi there, I finally changed all 8 bearings of the bike (I had to buy the complete kit, no warranty, I just dont want to lose more time, store to yeti - yeti to store mails ) have to say I was amazed the bearings just work for 7 months, of the 8 bearings I totally fried 4, 2 had a little problems and the other 2 where working fine, but well I changed all 8. I wish this new bearings work for more time, because dont want to change bearings every 7 months !!!

    I will post later if this bearings where better than the last ones.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  15. #65
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    it's going to be interesting to me to see how long they last for me too, once I get the bike.

    my home area is not known for being dry and dusty, there will be moisture and mud. I'm accustomed to the bearing wear pattern of my old bike (e.g. very low, last 3+ years for the main pivot and 6+ for the rest - Titus Quasi-Moto) so we'll see.

    I definitely feel like I need to order the spare set as soon as I get my new bike though.

  16. #66
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    Large Bearings That House The Pivot

    Hi,

    Had my SB66 for 3 moths now & have devoloped creaking on strip down i found that the bearings inside the pivot were fine, however the large ones that sit in the frame that house the switch pivot have failed.

    Has anyone else had the same problem?

    Thanks

  17. #67
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    Just a thought

    When I replaced the original switch pivot bearings with the correct ones I noticed that it would be possible to run this area 'wet' (ie fill the houseing containing the switch pivot with oil.). When I looked at the picture of the mud encrusted bearing from the previous post it made me think about it again. I'm not sure how effective the large 'x'ring seals would be at containing the oil but long term I think it may be better to have a bit of oil seaping out, than it is to have mud and water going in the oppposite direction ?

    PS. I tend to run the bottom brackets of my bikes wet (inside the plastic tube) once they have lost their newnes and it seems to work, freeing up stiff bearings and extending their life a bit.

  18. #68
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    Bring on bearing replacements under warranty, Yeti.

    Other companies are doing it - Santa cruz = lifetime warranty/free replacement. Orange = 5 year warranty on pivot bearings. but for yeti, 6 months in and you have to buy a new set yourself.

    small company should equal better, individual customer care. Unfortunately it feels like we're left here holding the can on these bearings and lack of thought re - insulating them from wet, muddy conditions.

    How is e.g. this upper pivot bearing supposed to last?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05380.jpg  


  19. #69
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    doesn't exactly make it easy to sell the frame onto a friend does it? great ride, perfect aggressive geometry, climbs like a goat and looks beautiful. Oh, and you'll need to strip it down on a weekly basis and get yourself hundreds of dollars worth of bearings a year to keep it running. nice job!

  20. #70
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Cracked SB66 Rear triangle -- am i the first one ?

    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery

  21. #71
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    well that's a drag!

    first i've heard of and i've been watching the Yeti forum closely since last fall.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery
    My guess is that you simply have a defective weld that has gone bad because the crack is right along the root of the weld. Hopefully this isn't a high stress point and we don't see any others.

    Yeti should take care of you and there's no reason that you shouldn't ride the new rear triangle just as hard.
    SC Tallboy C : SC Nomad 3 : Giant TCX SLR : Giant Propel Adv SL

  23. #73
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    Does anyone know what is a good way to remove those upper pivot bearings?

    There is not enough space for a bearing puller nor a vice. Thanks in advance.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.
    Yours is the only one I've heard of. I've had mine since December and ride it a lot harder than what you describe.

  25. #75
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    Don't think you are the first. I cracked mine about a month ago in the same spot. Yeti was good about replacing it, but dealing with my LBS was a real pain in the ass.

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