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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    kstovesand - where did you buy the "good" double-row bearing number 3802VRD from? Thanks.
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstovesand View Post
    I reread your question -- the bearing number is impressed on the bearing seal itself, along with the manufacturer, BOLU.
    Web site:
    China Ball Bearing,Tapered Bearing,Liner Bearing Manufacturer - Bolu International Co.,Ltd

    The number is from the Yeti one-page .pdf describing the replacement. (ATTACHED)

    Let me know if this is not the information you need. Thanks.

    73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS
    thanks for the file chief

  3. #53
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    Correct Bearings ?

    Sight word of caution based on my experience. I ended up having to wait 4 weeks to get a set of Yeti replacement bearings through the distributor and got a bit fustrated waiting so bought a set of industry standard double row bearings (sealed, caged bearing). When I fitted these I followed Yeti's instructions and torqued the pivot shaft to 90in/lb and notched/indexed the bearings quite badly. In retrospect the recommended torque seems high to me as all you are effectively looking to do is pre load the bearing slightly, holding the shaft in place is done by the pich bolts at each end. Can't vouch for the quality of the bearings I used either ?.
    Luckily by this time I had recieved the bearings from Yeti so instaled these but used only about a third of the recommended torque and they seem OK.
    My second point is that the bearings I recieved as replacement form Yeti were Enduro bearings NOT Bolu ones. Their number is the same as that which appears in the current owners manual (downloadable from Yeti website) BEARING 3802 2RS MAX. These are not caged bearings but are full compliment bearings (mores balls, no cage) and are better for higher loaded slow rotation applications. They have higher radial and axial loading capacities.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Signs of a crap shop if you ask me.

    Or un-trained people at the shop, one.

    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    Yup, the bearings are screeching again. Definitely contacting yeti. Now, my fork is hydrolocked too. Got to find out if i can take it to another dealer that has a competent staff.
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  6. #56
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    Thanks again for the reply.

    Sent email yesterday. Will be shopping for needles bearings if I get the okay from Yeti. I just want to ride my bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Definitely contact Yeti and plead your case - nicely - they're riders and may be able to work something out.

    At this point I'd look into just ordering and swapping the bearings out myself though, getting the correct parts is the hard part but even getting BETTER parts would be good. Swapping bearings out is NOT that difficult of an operation - if you're "mechanically disinclined" you've GOT to know someone is could deal with it.

    As for the fork, is this new behavior or was it happening all the time? which fork do you have? Changing out fork oil is a pretty easy operation, truth be told. If your fork is one of the many that have the damper cartridge oil kept separate from the lower/lubrication oil (rockshox, FIT cartridge Fox, many others) then it should be pretty easy to adjust.

    Bummed, but good luck!

  7. #57
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    Just got mine from yeti, the model number is "3802 LLU MAX"

  8. #58
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    Hi there anyone can help me to see if these are the correct or wrong bearings :S
    http://ap1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7969670/p4pb7969670.jpg
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  9. #59
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    Hi all,

    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05408.jpg  


  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    Any advice on how to get the main (i.e. non-drive side) switch pivot out of the frame? mine's completely stuck. and not looking too happy on the inside.
    Now that's a properly [ab]used bike!

    Any reason NOT to flush it with penetrating oil, like WD-40?

    Would need to be cleaned out afterwards, but seems to help get press-fit bearings out of things well enough to me.

    Probably take a couple "shots" and some "soaking."

  11. #61
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    gotcha. giving it a go.

    edit: this is the incorrect bearing, ya?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-bad-bearings.jpg  

    Last edited by skrrtch; 05-02-2012 at 06:48 AM. Reason: cos i took another photo

  12. #62
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    The VRS type is the single row bearings, according to earlier posts.

    Not the bet/most-correct from what has been shared.


    Sent from my brain using neurons fueled by caffeine

  13. #63
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    Dudes any video, manual, help of how to change the bearings ?
    Last edited by emeterio; 05-03-2012 at 08:47 AM.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  14. #64
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Hi there, I finally changed all 8 bearings of the bike (I had to buy the complete kit, no warranty, I just dont want to lose more time, store to yeti - yeti to store mails ) have to say I was amazed the bearings just work for 7 months, of the 8 bearings I totally fried 4, 2 had a little problems and the other 2 where working fine, but well I changed all 8. I wish this new bearings work for more time, because dont want to change bearings every 7 months !!!

    I will post later if this bearings where better than the last ones.
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  15. #65
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    it's going to be interesting to me to see how long they last for me too, once I get the bike.

    my home area is not known for being dry and dusty, there will be moisture and mud. I'm accustomed to the bearing wear pattern of my old bike (e.g. very low, last 3+ years for the main pivot and 6+ for the rest - Titus Quasi-Moto) so we'll see.

    I definitely feel like I need to order the spare set as soon as I get my new bike though.

  16. #66
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    Large Bearings That House The Pivot

    Hi,

    Had my SB66 for 3 moths now & have devoloped creaking on strip down i found that the bearings inside the pivot were fine, however the large ones that sit in the frame that house the switch pivot have failed.

    Has anyone else had the same problem?

    Thanks

  17. #67
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    Just a thought

    When I replaced the original switch pivot bearings with the correct ones I noticed that it would be possible to run this area 'wet' (ie fill the houseing containing the switch pivot with oil.). When I looked at the picture of the mud encrusted bearing from the previous post it made me think about it again. I'm not sure how effective the large 'x'ring seals would be at containing the oil but long term I think it may be better to have a bit of oil seaping out, than it is to have mud and water going in the oppposite direction ?

    PS. I tend to run the bottom brackets of my bikes wet (inside the plastic tube) once they have lost their newnes and it seems to work, freeing up stiff bearings and extending their life a bit.

  18. #68
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    Bring on bearing replacements under warranty, Yeti.

    Other companies are doing it - Santa cruz = lifetime warranty/free replacement. Orange = 5 year warranty on pivot bearings. but for yeti, 6 months in and you have to buy a new set yourself.

    small company should equal better, individual customer care. Unfortunately it feels like we're left here holding the can on these bearings and lack of thought re - insulating them from wet, muddy conditions.

    How is e.g. this upper pivot bearing supposed to last?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switch pivot bearings-dsc05380.jpg  


  19. #69
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    doesn't exactly make it easy to sell the frame onto a friend does it? great ride, perfect aggressive geometry, climbs like a goat and looks beautiful. Oh, and you'll need to strip it down on a weekly basis and get yourself hundreds of dollars worth of bearings a year to keep it running. nice job!

  20. #70
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Cracked SB66 Rear triangle -- am i the first one ?

    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery

  21. #71
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    well that's a drag!

    first i've heard of and i've been watching the Yeti forum closely since last fall.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Talking on the SB 66 Defects....
    has any one cracked their SB 66 Rear triangle or am I the first one?

    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.

    I love the bike, they go up and down as promised i do with them all what i could not do with my previous bike (GT Force 2.0) . I am just concerned now as i read your thread about faulty parts, and i know the history of the 575 rear triangle.
    I am not sure if i should keep the bike or not !?

    I could not upload an image as i am new. you can see it here :
    i45.tinypic.com/szbhn4.jpg
    or in my user gallery
    My guess is that you simply have a defective weld that has gone bad because the crack is right along the root of the weld. Hopefully this isn't a high stress point and we don't see any others.

    Yeti should take care of you and there's no reason that you shouldn't ride the new rear triangle just as hard.
    Tallboy3 CC : Nomad3 CC: Highball2 CC : Stigmata2 CC

  23. #73
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    Does anyone know what is a good way to remove those upper pivot bearings?

    There is not enough space for a bearing puller nor a vice. Thanks in advance.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by kal el View Post
    I have the bike for only 2 months, did 520km of All mountain rides .
    Jump maximum 1.5 meter & my wight is 95KG, I could not believe it when i saw the cracked rear triangle.
    Yours is the only one I've heard of. I've had mine since December and ride it a lot harder than what you describe.

  25. #75
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    Don't think you are the first. I cracked mine about a month ago in the same spot. Yeti was good about replacing it, but dealing with my LBS was a real pain in the ass.

  26. #76
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    May you post some pics ?
    No dudes, no temas, no te arrepientas.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by emeterio View Post
    May you post some pics ?
    I just looked again and mine was on the left side of the weld, Yeti handled the issue very quickly and to my satisfaction. Excellent Yeti customer service. It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.


  28. #78
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    Interesting that both of the failures above are on the drive side. SB-95 has the strut joining the chain and seat stays on both sides- SB-66 only on the non-drive side. Wonder if next year we will see the strut on both sides for the 66.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I just looked again and mine was on the left side of the weld, Yeti handled the issue very quickly and to my satisfaction. Excellent Yeti customer service. It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.

    This is the same location my SB-66 just failed last Friday as well. Happened on my second practice run while pre-riding stages for an Enduro Race (Bend Enduro in Oregon) this past weekend. I wasn't a happy camper with the break of course. I wasn't able to do the race on my favorite riding rig and had to eat the $$$ registration fees, travel/gas, time off from work/family, etc. Came home empty handed and waiting for a rear replacement from Yeti/LBS as we speak. I am about 215lbs geared, ride 3x/wk max, mostly trail/AM stuff with some lite FR/DH here and there with all climbing to descents with no gap jumps or big drops. I have been riding the bike for a bit over 5 months now and expected it to last much longer under these circumstances as I came to Yeti due to early frame failure problems with previosly owned AM bike (Banshee Rune). At this time, I am pondering to try to sell the SB and look for something else that may be a bit stronger (Knolly Chilcotin, IBIS HD) for me as I loved how the SB rode and fit for most trail/AM applications, or just ride it with new rear end and hope it doesn't fail again at this location. I too think that the location where it broke is little too thinned down in material (width) due to asymmetrical design of the rear chain stays and is a weak link for heavier, more aggro trail riders at least. I thought the SB was quite possibly the "holy grail" of most fun, durable/heavy duty trail bikes out there, but not sure at this point
    Ride On!

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Interesting that both of the failures above are on the drive side. SB-95 has the strut joining the chain and seat stays on both sides- SB-66 only on the non-drive side. Wonder if next year we will see the strut on both sides for the 66.
    Maybe yes, but I don't need to be a mechanical engineer to figure out the 29 wheel generates higher leverages/forces on the welds than a 26 wheel does. So you can make the triangle beefier or add the strut?

  31. #81
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    jgusta, that just sucks, all around. :^( I feel your pain, but I'd not get "down" on the frame *yet*

  32. #82
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    And i thought i was the first one in the world to crack the SB 66
    i wonder how many already did brake the rear triangle on this pretty new model.
    hope it was a defective weld, and not something that gonna repeat itself.

    I bought my bike from official yeti dealer, and after only 3 days was called in to replace the broken triangle, after they send the necessary documentation and photos to yeti.
    this is an excellent service.

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Maybe yes, but I don't need to be a mechanical engineer to figure out the 29 wheel generates higher leverages/forces on the welds than a 26 wheel does. So you can make the triangle beefier or add the strut?
    My (long ago) structures education would say adding the strut is the stronger solution. Interesting thing is that the braking side would have the higher rotational moment applied to the frame; I am guessing that is why the strut is on that side.

    Having said that, if they have isolated the issue down to a single welder using faulty technique/materials/etc, then the issue should be resolved from here.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    It was the LBS I had to process the warranty through that was a pain in the ass. $90 to process a warranty change out a swingarm that I could have done myself. That and the bike came back with the gears out of adjustment and loose pivots. This is exactly why I work on my own bike stuff.
    Yep, exactly the same thing with my 7 when I warrantied the chain stay. Same shop.

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    jgusta, that just sucks, all around. :^( I feel your pain, but I'd not get "down" on the frame *yet*
    Thanks for the cheer-up as I love the bike (minus a lot of chain slap in the rough that can be easily remedied with clutch derailleur). Just a little bummed cause I went thru all of this with previous bike and three frames in less in 2 yrs. Was hoping the Yeti was going to be a lot more durable for me for this class of bike. Yes, it is still a very fun bike to ride and I am not ready to fully give up on it yet. Just want something that I can depend to get a solid season out of, if not two.
    Ride On!

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    This is the same location my SB-66 just failed last Friday as well. Happened on my second practice run while pre-riding stages for an Enduro Race (Bend Enduro in Oregon) this past weekend. I wasn't a happy camper with the break of course. I wasn't able to do the race on my favorite riding rig and had to eat the $$$ registration fees, travel/gas, time off from work/family, etc. Came home empty handed and waiting for a rear replacement from Yeti/LBS as we speak. I am about 215lbs geared, ride 3x/wk max, mostly trail/AM stuff with some lite FR/DH here and there with all climbing to descents with no gap jumps or big drops. I have been riding the bike for a bit over 5 months now and expected it to last much longer under these circumstances as I came to Yeti due to early frame failure problems with previosly owned AM bike (Banshee Rune). At this time, I am pondering to try to sell the SB and look for something else that may be a bit stronger (Knolly Chilcotin, IBIS HD) for me as I loved how the SB rode and fit for most trail/AM applications, or just ride it with new rear end and hope it doesn't fail again at this location. I too think that the location where it broke is little too thinned down in material (width) due to asymmetrical design of the rear chain stays and is a weak link for heavier, more aggro trail riders at least. I thought the SB was quite possibly the "holy grail" of most fun, durable/heavy duty trail bikes out there, but not sure at this point
    My 66 is roughly the same age so I'm wondering if they were just a bad run of welds. In any case the new one has been fine so far but thats not to say that I don't think about it failing again. I'm still going to ride it as much and as fast as possible though.

    Now on the other hand the creaking in the pivots is a nightmare. My pivots creak horribly and no matter how many times I take them apart and clean them the creaking always comes back after a few rides. And yes I have the new switch pivot bearings.

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Having said that, if they have isolated the issue down to a single welder using faulty technique/materials/etc, then the issue should be resolved from here.
    Hope it's realy the welder and he did not weld too many frames.
    The bike realy look and feel so solid, touch wood.
    Hard to understand...........

  38. #88
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    I just put my SB66 together on April. First ride was on April 29 and I put a little over 90 miles and can hear a cracking sound coming from the link area. Its a 2012 model it came with a paint chip on the head tube. Looks like the primer or first coat of paint was chipped and than it was painted over. It will be so disappointing to have a bad set of bearings on that frame. Maybe an Ibis Mojo HD would had been a better choice.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thiago7 View Post
    I just put my SB66 together on April. First ride was on April 29 and I put a little over 90 miles and can hear a cracking sound coming from the link area. Its a 2012 model it came with a paint chip on the head tube. Looks like the primer or first coat of paint was chipped and than it was painted over. It will be so disappointing to have a bad set of bearings on that frame. Maybe an Ibis Mojo HD would had been a better choice.
    Thiago
    sorry to hear about head tube paint. When I demoed the bike, I knew the paint was not the best part of it even though mine still looks great.
    As for the creaks, I found that I need to apply a drop of lube to the bearing every 1-2 rides.
    Than it disapears but will reapear if I don't lube again
    never ridden an HD but the Mojo is a nice bike just not even close to the SB imo
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 06-05-2012 at 11:39 PM.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    As for the creaks, I found that I need to apply a drop of lube to the bearing every 1-2 rides.
    Than it disapears but will reapear if I don't lube again
    never ridden an HD but the Mojo is a nice bike just not even close to the SB imo
    This just doesn't sound good. I've had several Yeti's over the years and none of them have had pivots creak as much as my 66.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    This just doesn't sound good. I've had several Yeti's over the years and none of them have had pivots creak as much as my 66.
    I've had my SB66 since December and I've ridden it a ton due to the mild winter/spring here. No creaks at all. Wonder what is causing yours?

  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    I've had my SB66 since December and I've ridden it a ton due to the mild winter/spring here. No creaks at all. Wonder what is causing yours?
    My thought is maybe there is a bad bearing besides the switch pivots that were replaced under warranty. I'm thinking about just ordering the whole kit and replacing them all.

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    My thought is maybe there is a bad bearing besides the switch pivots that were replaced under warranty. I'm thinking about just ordering the whole kit and replacing them all.
    Mine started creaking after gently washing the bike. Don't wash it any more.
    I ride very dusty trails but my bike saw very little mud since purchased.
    I have a new/good switch waiting for me at my LBS but I don't believe the switch is creaking on mine, since I never touch it besides dusting.
    Anyways, my 575 did creak from time to time and at times even badly.
    Do I want to hear only my breath when pedaling?, sure do. However I never achieved this for more tahn 1-3 rides since I moved to FS 6 years ago.
    True I rode only Yeti FSs except demoes but people around me creaked and even replaced bearings all the time where I did nothing except lubing the 575 for 5.5 years.
    I understand that I can not expect the same reliability from the SB as it has a way more complex design but hope it will serve me well.
    BTW, I craked my 575 after 4 years and saw all frames broken on MTBR and I don't think there is a bike that never breaks. I believe I saw broken Knollys, many Turners and so on.
    Santa Cruz had great issues with VPP and took some years to improve but some poeple never gave up on their Nomads.
    Not sure if I am trying to defend Yeti or relax my concerns but I have no expectation towards perfect reliability as I ride MTBs for some years now and spend some time reading others reports.
    If the SB continue to ride like it does for 2 years, I can live with some lubing. BTW, I lube my chain every ride or otherwise it beacomes dry and noisy and probaly eat faster chain and sprockets.
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 06-06-2012 at 10:07 AM.

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Mine started creaking after gently washing the bike. Don't wash it any more.
    I ride very dusty trails but my bike saw very little mud since purchased.
    I have a new/good switch waiting for me at my LBS but I don't believe the switch is creaking on mine, since I never touch it besides dusting.
    Anyways, my 575 did creak from time to time and at times even badly.
    Do I want to hear only my breath when pedaling?, sure does. However I never achieved this for more tahn 1-3 rides since I moved to FS 6 years ago.
    True I rode only Yeti FSs except demoes but people around me creaked and even replaced bearings all the time where I did nothing except lubing the 575 for 5.5 years.
    I understand that I can not expect the same reliability from the SB as it has a way more complex design but hope it will serve me well.
    BTW, I craked my 575 after 4 years and saw all frames broken on MTBR and I don't think there is a bike that never breaks. I believe I saw broken Knollys, many Turners and so on.
    Santa Cruz had great issues with VPP and took some years to improve but some poeple never gave up on their Nomads.
    Not sure if I am trying to defend Yeti or relax my concerns but I have no expectation towards perfect reliability as I ride MTBs for some years now and spend some time reading others reports.
    If the SB continue to ride like it does for 2 years, I can leav with some lubing. BTW, I lube my chain every ride or otherwise it beacomes dry and noisy and probaly eat faster chain and sprockets.
    Greenbonty,
    I agree. Like I said before I have had many Yetis over the years and plan to stick with the brand. There is just something about their bikes that keeps me coming back. It will all break if ridden hard enough and in rought enough conditions so I agree with that. The creaking is mainly just a frustration thing for me as you spend time maintaining the pivots only for the creaking to come back after 2 rides. Anyhoo, I'll just clean and grease them again over a few beers one evening.

  45. #95
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    Broken drive side chainstay?

    TB,

    Did you happen to notice any cracks in the stay before it went? I just installed some cranks not too long ago before my chain stay broke at exact same spot as yours. I clean and go through my bike fairly thoroughly before each ride and didn't notice any cracks at all. My gut tells me the stay just went at this spot without much warning. Similar experience to what you had? I am patiently waiting for new stay at this time as it is suppose to be in the mail. Happy Yeti is taking care of me for sure, but feels like forever and I am borrowing someone else's bike in the meantime...just not the same.

    Thx,
    JG
    Ride On!

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    TB,

    Did you happen to notice any cracks in the stay before it went? I just installed some cranks not too long ago before my chain stay broke at exact same spot as yours. I clean and go through my bike fairly thoroughly before each ride and didn't notice any cracks at all. My gut tells me the stay just went at this spot without much warning. Similar experience to what you had? I am patiently waiting for new stay at this time as it is suppose to be in the mail. Happy Yeti is taking care of me for sure, but feels like forever and I am borrowing someone else's bike in the meantime...just not the same.

    Thx,
    JG
    No I didn't. I was cleaning my bike and trying to diagnose creaks when I found it. I probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise. To me it looks like it was a bad weld. As I mentioned before the replacement swingarm has been fine and I'm riding about 3 times a week with technical rocky trail.

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    Bring on bearing replacements under warranty, Yeti.

    Other companies are doing it - Santa cruz = lifetime warranty/free replacement. Orange = 5 year warranty on pivot bearings. but for yeti, 6 months in and you have to buy a new set yourself.

    small company should equal better, individual customer care. Unfortunately it feels like we're left here holding the can on these bearings and lack of thought re - insulating them from wet, muddy conditions.

    How is e.g. this upper pivot bearing supposed to last?
    I had mine since November, and one of my upper bearings is stuck. STUCK. Well, checked the manual, and it seems it is not as per specification either. It is speced as an angular contact (7903 2RS MAX), but is something else (6903 VRS). Definitely a warranty claim but what will be faster? Ordering a kit from Enduro Fork seals or wait for my LBS to get their feet out their ass and get me some real ones. I think I will try both..

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    I had mine since November, and one of my upper bearings is stuck. STUCK. Well, checked the manual, and it seems it is not as per specification either. It is speced as an angular contact (7903 2RS MAX), but is something else (6903 VRS). Definitely a warranty claim but what will be faster? Ordering a kit from Enduro Fork seals or wait for my LBS to get their feet out their ass and get me some real ones. I think I will try both..
    If you have a LBS who is a Yeti dealer (especially at site of bike purchase) and has good/decent rapport with Yeti and is willing to get a hold of them for potential replacement (at cost or warranty) that is the way to go, IMO. As that is what I did in early 12/2011 and received the upgraded ("correct") bearings for frame within a weeks time. If you don't have much faith in LBS or Yeti to warranty the bearings and you know the specific bearings you need, I would definitely go that route instead. Looks like you covered yourself either way though . I imagine if your LBS is slammed right now and don't have someone who is willing to "go out of their way" for you, then it would more than likely not get done, especially if you didn't buy the bike from them. When I had frame problems with previous bikes that I didn't buy locally, I was always on my own to get it fixed or corrective part.
    Ride On!

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    Bogus! This bike has been high on my radar, but between the creaky bearings and now broken swingarms it seems yeti has some bugs to iron out. Plain & simple this is to heavy of a frame to break in 6 months, not to mention hoped it would be latterly stiffer. I feel for ya jgusta as I am going through the banshee warranty headaches currently and don't want to take a chance at buying into a brand that may have issues. Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now.......

  50. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by big JC View Post
    Bogus! This bike has been high on my radar, but between the creaky bearings and now broken swingarms it seems yeti has some bugs to iron out. Plain & simple this is to heavy of a frame to break in 6 months, not to mention hoped it would be latterly stiffer. I feel for ya jgusta as I am going through the banshee warranty headaches currently and don't want to take a chance at buying into a brand that may have issues. Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now.......
    That stinks, hope Banshee gets you sorted, They took good care or me in the past and hope they do the same for you. Their bushing pivot system is quite the headache for sure, nothing close to Turner reliability, function and ease of use/maintenance and made me want to go back to sealed bearings.

    FWIW, never had any problems with bearings/creaks on the SB-66 and made sure I had the upgraded ("proper") bearings installed before leaving the shop with new bike last early winter. It was bit of a surprise for the rearend to go like it did, especially in less than 6 months (the biggest bummer was that it happened in an Enduro pre-race run last weekend). But, got new rear in 4 days from Yeti and installed courtesy of LBS. Apparently my first rear swingarm didn't have a serial number on it, indicating that it was part of a first frame batch or something, according to LBS/Yeti, and the new/replacement swingarm should last longer for whatever reason? The true test will be time of course. Other than that, I love how this bike rides. Fun and efficient like the Banshee, but a little plusher in it's travel and climbs tech better due to no pedal kickback and much better small bump and square edge hit performance. Feels a lot plusher on the trail with air shock than the Banshee did for sure.

    It seems like every new bike purchase is a gamble these days as far as reliability of frames goes. But, don't think you could go wrong with a IBIS HD or possibly a Knolly Chilcotin for longer durability for similar class of bike. I test rode a Chili last week here in town, felt good, very active FSR like, but pedals a little better than FSR. Think I like the Switch-link feel some better though. The Knolly looks pretty solid and don't hear of too many people breaking them. The IBIS HD would more than likely be the only carbon AM bike I would want to get as well. NomadC is a solid constructed frame as well for carbon, but don't like VPP all that much (rode like crap with DHX air at least when I demo'ed at Sandy last year) with similar build/specs as my Banshee Rune at the time.

    Good luck with your bike.

    "Not sure what to get to replace my banshee now......"

    Oh, if you are looking for a replacement for a Spitfire, I think the Turner 5.5 Spot would be the way to go for solid, long lasting trail bike frame with excellent bushings/pivots. If wanting a slacker trail bike, just put in a head angle set in there and at $1500-1600 for 2011 frames on closeout, American made, lifetime warranty, that's tough to beat, IMO. I don't think the upgraded 142x12mm for 2012 Spots vs a 135x10mm is worth the upgrade in cost as compared to 2011's. Just put a solid Hadley 135x10mm thru bolt axle in and is just about as stiff as a 142x12 QR maxle
    Last edited by jgusta; 06-08-2012 at 11:47 PM.
    Ride On!

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