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  1. #1
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    SB95 Bearing Replacement

    Okay, I've been through the manuals and they don't cover replacement of the bearings - either the smaller ones in the yoke, the small inner-ones on the switch, or the large radius switch bearing and bushing.

    So, I'm thinking the standard press-out for the small ones should work (touchier since I have limited equipment) but I am really left wondering how to tackle the large radius bearings on the Switch.

    So, if anyone has any technique to share that'd be appreciated. Would save me the ultimate fall back of driving 90 minutes to Bethlehem PA to connect with a good Yeti shop that can probably help out.

    Cheers!

  2. #2
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    Curious of the reason for the replacement? Preventative maintenance, there is a problem, noisy or???

    How many miles you suspect you have? tnx

  3. #3
    Lucky...
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    I have the same thing on tap in about 2 weeks, along with rebuilding shock and fork. I am planning on going down to Hrbor Freight and picking up a bearing press kit. They have one for 20 skins or so, and it will be a good investment.

    To answer question above- I have 1,500 miles on the bike, and race season approaches. Doing a full tear down and rebuild as preventative maintenance.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  4. #4
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    I got my bike June 2nd, it has about 1500 miles on it, 99% trail, 80% very rocky / rooty.

    Very limited crud-conditions riding, however I live in a "hydrographically healthy" area NE PA - not as wet as the Pac North Wet but not desert dry ... plenty of creek crossings, etc.

    Bike has never been pressure washed, only water-drip-washed, so no water being forced anywhere.

    My shock developed a defect (leaking damper oil into the air chamber) and was sent off to Fox at the beginning of Dec (and they fixed it under warranty) so I just took that as the start of the "winter tear-down prep for next year" time. Once I completed tear-down so I could individually check the bearings I found that all the small frame bearings were very sticky - hard to turn - and one was completely chunky-notchy. The main bearing was also chunky-notchy AND very hard to turn.

    I pulled the seals off one side of the worst small bearing and the large one, and they're completely crapped-out inside.

    From less than 6 months of riding. Argh.

    At this point I have all the bearings out, I've left the bushing in the frame for now (the Switch on the '95 has drive-side bearing NDS-side bushing), but pulled the other six bearings (which are thankfully all the same).

    The manual states the bearings should be 3802 2RS MAX. the ones in my frame are 3802 VRD. I'll be interested to see what comes in the kit from Yeti. I can't seen to find my link with details about different bearing types so I don't know precisely what VRD means Knowing that the "2RS MAX" are double-row max-compliment" bearings I'll imply that the VRD is a single-row bearing. From pulling the seals off I know they are not caged - are max compliment - and look single row - but I haven't forced all the bearings out to see.

    I kind-of wish that Yeti had spec'd "SRS" sealed bearings, because then it'd be easy to open the bearings and flush and grease them, instead of needing to swap cartridges. *shrug*

    The NDS-bushing LOOKS fine, so far as I know, and there's no wear on the Switch axle that mates with it, so I've left it in the frame until I can compare it to the new one I'm getting.

    related:

    The XT BB is also "done" - irritating but not surprised. I have the Race Face Team XC ready to mount. I have had one of those on my older bikes for 1-2 seasons with no signs that they need replacement yet.

    The Cane Creek headset on the front is fine.

    The DT hubs are turning fine, my hand-re-built wheels with Flow rims instead of XR400's are running true and round and solid.

  5. #5
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    great info

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Sloth View Post
    great info
    Agreed!

  7. #7
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    Bearings seem to be a concern on the Switch bikes. I read, heard that the SB 66's were shipped with incorrect bearings. But less than six months on your 95? I've heard nothing but great things about Switch...except the bearings. I love my 5C, but I have to admit that that bushings on my old Turner Flux were great - just inject with grease and go riding.

  8. #8
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    the bearings in the eccentric ( blue switch piece) should be easy to get out, there is a notch in the eccentric piece for a punch. you will see it once you look.
    i never thought i'd be 43 and living here......i kinda wanted to be a rockstar..." Mark Hendershot

  9. #9
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    This past weekend was the first ride on the SB-95 and must say this bike is a bunch of fun. Having owned and ridden any number of dual suspension bikes this one really shines. On the maiden ride I tried some rollers I'd never try on prior bikes. Hope the bearings and pivots hold up for the long term.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    Bearings seem to be a concern on the Switch bikes. I read, heard that the SB 66's were shipped with incorrect bearings. But less than six months on your 95? I've heard nothing but great things about Switch...except the bearings. I love my 5C, but I have to admit that that bushings on my old Turner Flux were great - just inject with grease and go riding.
    Ya, but we're about 1500 miles of hard riding. How many miles are the bearing supposed to last?

  11. #11
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    chunkylove53: no idea how long Yeti think they'll last ... if they're the right bearings. I have seen nothing from them on that subject.

    I'm concerned about the mismatch between what's on my bike vs what is listed in the manual. I'm VERY curious to see what comes in the mail from yeti from my parts order.

    The good bit is that both the "3802" that is used on all the small axle pivots and the "6808" used on the Switch are readily available as they are standard sizes. The "6808" is the same as used in Cane Creek headsets, for example. So replacing just those bearings with the "2RS MAX LLU" style from Enduro Fork Seals should improve the sealing/grease fill.

    The yeti bearing kit is somewhat expensive ($150/shipped) but it includes the NDS Switch bushing and quad-o-ring that I can't easily source otherwise (yet). Just the seven bearings (6x3802 and 1x6808, 2RS MAX all of them) via EnduroForkSeals comes to about $120/shipped.

    The 3802 bearings that were in the lower end of the yoke were in the best shape - they have additional protection in that the bolt that holds it together there covers the bearing.

    The 3802 bearings in the concentric were next-up in feeling okay, and are partially protected by the rear triangle being present.

    The 3802 bearings in the top of the yoke felt the worst to me, on my bike. The Switch bearing was equivalently bad which surprises me a bit as is at least somewhat protected by the Switch. If there was an o-ring on the drive-side Switch housing that'd help protect that bearing quite a bit.

    The quad o-ring seems to be in fine shape, as does the NDS bushing.

    I'll try to get some pics to post of the torn down stuff, and the bearings and their condition. It's a challenging photographic environment in my basement though. :^(

    The rest of the mounting hardware leaves the bearing outer surface completely exposed.

  12. #12
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    update 1

    Okay, couple things...

    - kit from Yeti came with same bearing id's as was in frame

    - after comparing the new with the old, most of the small bearings feel basically the same and could probably have been run easily for another 1500 miles or more (one small bearing was definitely cooked)

    - the new bushing and the original bushing surfaces look and feel identical, so not replacing the bushing

    - the o-ring in the kit that came was dead-bang wrong ... it was too large ... had to be cut to fit within the mount point for it. I am going to contact Yeti to see if I can't get them to send me a replacement.

    - a Park headset press works very well (in addition to the old bearing) to set the new Switch bearing




    For more commentary ... please go here

  13. #13
    Lucky...
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    Just coming to post the same- kit arrived today with the same bearings as in the frame. Tearing the bike down in about 2 weeks, when the Fox kits show up. Looks like the XT bottom bracket is fried, so swapping that out tomorrow.

    I am planning on replacing all bearings and the bushin no matter the condition as preventative maintence. Also ordered the Switch pivoit, as mine has burnishing from earlier this year.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Just coming to post the same- kit arrived today with the same bearings as in the frame. Tearing the bike down in about 2 weeks, when the Fox kits show up. Looks like the XT bottom bracket is fried, so swapping that out tomorrow.

    I am planning on replacing all bearings and the bushin no matter the condition as preventative maintence. Also ordered the Switch pivoit, as mine has burnishing from earlier this year.
    Be sure to check the o ring for sizing.

    Like to hear how you pull and replace the bushing. :-)

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

  15. #15
    Lucky...
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Be sure to check the o ring for sizing.

    Like to hear how you pull and replace the bushing. :-)

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
    I seem to remember the o-ring that came on the bike being a bit big when I tore it down to grease it about 5 months ago. Thought it had just stretched, and finagled it back in. O-ring came with eccentric too, so I'll post up if the same.

    Going to call Yeti and get pointers on bushing removal; was originally counting on you doing the swap first! :-)
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    I seem to remember the o-ring that came on the bike being a bit big when I tore it down to grease it about 5 months ago. Thought it had just stretched, and finagled it back in. O-ring came with eccentric too, so I'll post up if the same.

    Going to call Yeti and get pointers on bushing removal; was originally counting on you doing the swap first! :-)
    Sorry I got lazy on you.

    My new o ring was NOWHERE close to the right size, I cut maybe 1 to 1.5 cm out of it. No way it would fit.

    Getting the old bushing out seems trivial - it is a split bushing so you could just wedge a blade under one end and peel it out.

    Getting the new one to stay in place is my question - never worked with one like this before, just with shock eye DU bushings.

    Best of luck to you.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

  17. #17
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    150 dollars for a set of bearings to replace ones that go bad in less than a year? god help anyone who isn't mechanically adept enough to do their own labor. Whats that, $250-$400 per year in maintenance costs only on the frame bearings? whew
    here we go again

  18. #18
    Lucky...
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    Bearing set is actually $120, and frequency of replacement is going to be driven by miles and conditions. Up where Bear rides (in the wet), the bearings will get a bunch more wear than in the ATX (dry) where I ride.

    I am choosing to replace the bearings at 1500 miles just because I will have the bike down for fork and shock maintenance, not because I have some issue telling me I need to replace then. With race season fast approaching, I want the bike to be ready to go! I am guessing I could get another 1,500 out of the bearing set I have. .
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by eleven-yo View Post
    150 dollars for a set of bearings to replace ones that go bad in less than a year? god help anyone who isn't mechanically adept enough to do their own labor. Whats that, $250-$400 per year in maintenance costs only on the frame bearings? whew
    I've also ridden worse bearings .... but since it is crap season and in had the bike 'down' for stated reasons in went for it. I am hoping I don't rue not changing the bushing.

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  20. #20
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    supplemental:

    I just got off the phone with Yeti and have a couple comments to make.

    1. They're really nice on the phone, and helpful.

    2. They had a few SB95 kits that got the o-ring for the SB66, they're sending me a couple rings out this afternoon at no cost to me.

    3. They have an in-house machined tool to press the non-drive side bushing it, but have found that the King Headset adapter for 1.5" used with a headset press can do the job properly also.

    4. They are also very interested to hear about the durability of the bushing on the 95 - they haven't worn one out themselves *yet* but they also admit their conditions are pretty dry normally. To the point that they often don't bother with the o-ring at all.

    cheers

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    The manual states the bearings should be 3802 2RS MAX. the ones in my frame are 3802 VRD. I'll be interested to see what comes in the kit from Yeti. I can't seen to find my link with details about different bearing types so I don't know precisely what VRD means Knowing that the "2RS MAX" are double-row max-compliment" bearings I'll imply that the VRD is a single-row bearing.
    I researched the bearing problems on the SB66 before I purchased my frame. Yeti attributes lower bearing loads on the SB95 compared to the 66 as the reason for good in-service experience so far. The Yeti rep I talked to said SB95 frames shipping in December have Enduromax bearings; my LBS also confirmed this. Enduromax is speced in the manual because they appear to be a superior chromium alloy bearing. I understand Yeti was forced to Enduromax on the SB66 due to early failures of the first gen bearings. VRD may be the supplier of the first gen bearings which could be good enough for the SB95, and 3802 is a standard size. I couldn't find the maker of VRD bearings.

    I'll try not to get too nervous if I have VRD bearings instead of Enduromax as promised, it sounds like Yeti built the switch link around standard bearing sizes. The part number Enduromax Bearing specified in the manual is available on the web. I actually found a 3802 bearing by DT Swiss; there are others I'm sure. I'll have to stock up with the best bearings I can find in those sizes...Corrosion Resistant Nitrogen (CREN) Steel would be acceptable.

    It looks like you can buy an Enduromax bearing kit for the SB66 for $76, Hopefully they will offer kits for the SB95 soon. enduroforkseals.com/id251.html
    Last edited by Sasquatch29; 01-24-2013 at 09:45 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch29 View Post
    It looks like you can buy an Enduromax bearing kit for the SB66 for $76, Hopefully they will offer kits for the SB95 soon. enduroforkseals.com/id251.html
    Enduroforksealsncarries both bearings the 95 uses, I priced a whole set and it was about 120$.

    This does not include the non drive side bushing or o ring though.

    I have not found a source for those yet.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    I have the same thing on tap in about 2 weeks, along with rebuilding shock and fork. I am planning on going down to Hrbor Freight and picking up a bearing press kit.
    So does the Harbor Freight bearing press kit work well with the large Switch bearing?

    thnx.

  24. #24
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    I just bought a used 2013 SB-95a from the p1nkbike classifieds for a great price.
    It looks new and the seller said it's been ridden maybe 100 hrs.

    I was stoked until I felt the bearings. The large main Switch bearing is toast. And half of the smaller 3802 bearings are seized or gritty. The seller says he always used a torque wrench and never pressure washed the bike.

    How can a bike ridden only 100 hrs have such bad bearings? I should mention the bike was ridden in Utah (dust) ?

    Anyhow, I ordered the bearing kit from Yeti.
    Last edited by client_9; 10-12-2013 at 07:26 AM.

  25. #25
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    Just because the seller claims only 100 hours doesn't mean much to me, maybe you know them or their ride habits personally though.

    My 95a needed a new drive side and one small bearing after about 1500 miles/6 months of use in NE PA and the surrounding area. I swapped everything except the nds bushing out just to be pre emtive.
    The rebuild has over 2500 on it and feels fine while riding so far.

    Ps . I used a standard 1.5" headset press to push in the new drive side bearing. It may also work for setting the bushing.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

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