Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    11

    SB6C - Main pivot pin for rear triangle fused in Infinity Link?

    I am trying to remove the rear triangle on my SB6C, and am unable to get the 10mm main pivot pin that goes through the infinity link bearings out. The pin turns, however it wonít back out of the frame (the upper pin at the dog bone link will). If I turn out the pin the chain stays want to splay apart instead of the pin coming out.

    Iíve tried tapping on the threaded end of the pin with a rubber mallet and steel bar after turning the pin about ĺ turn, and that was unsuccessful.

    Iíve also tried clamping the rear triangle so the stays canít open up, but even then, the wood blocks I used started crushing instead of the pin backing out, so I backed off out of fear of damaging the rear triangle.

    Iím thinking the aluminum pivot pin has fused into the steel bearing race inside the infinity link?

    Has anybody else had a similar issue? Any advice? If there is already a post on this issue, I would appreciate it if someone could direct me to it, as I havenít been able to find this issue in the Yeti forum. SB6C - Main pivot pin for rear triangle fused in Infinity Link?-img_0975.jpg

  2. #2
    ******ed or Branded??
    Reputation: doodooboi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    2,083
    When I first tried to tear down my frame I had the same issue. But not nearly as tough as yours. Anyways I just used my 8mm and used a mallet to tap it out slowly. Eventually it backed out. The spacer inside between the bearings is a tight fit. Also the carbon was covering the bolt a bit which made it tough to back out. I used a ton of slick honey lube to get it back through. But now it's a tad easier to tear down. I have done it a 2 more times since.
    The trick is have some one tap it as you spin it. Had my wife help me.

    Good luck.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    The trick is have some one tap it as you spin it. Had my wife help me.

    Good luck.
    Thanks doodooboi, I'll give that a try later this week and post back.
    I've got the bike booked to go to the LBS at the end of the week, it's just under my skin that I cant get the bolt out! :-)

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    578
    Same thing happend on my (and other's) SB95. I used a wooden dowel and shaved it down to the size of the bolt and just gave it a few good whacks until it came out. Wasn't fun swinging a hammer towards the frame but it worked. Good luck!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    11
    I was able to get the pivot bolt out of the infinity link last night! After loosening the bolt by a little over a turn I wound up putting the rear wheel back onto the bike so I could put it on the ground instead of having it spin in the work stand. Following the advice I received from the above forum posts was then able to ďtapĒ the bolt using a slightly undersized steel pin until the pivot bolt finally backed out of the bearing. These initial taps were a lot harder than I would have thought necessary to get the bolt moving (like pretty much full swings), but it did finally break free!

    Thanks for your help with this!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1
    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike

  7. #7
    ******ed or Branded??
    Reputation: doodooboi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    2,083
    Quote Originally Posted by Gav Storie View Post
    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike
    I would strongly advise you not to do that. Just take it to a shop or call yeti and see what's your alternative before drilling. Doing so with the tight margins of a carbon frame, bad things can happen quickly.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Gav Storie View Post
    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike
    I would definitely concur with doodoobi, in that you donít want to drill out the pivot axles.

    When I was able to get the axles out of my bike it took two definite steps to get them out:

    1) I had to preload the axle by turning it out one full rotation plus. The pitch on the axle threads is coarse enough that when I did this I could physically see the seat stays splay apart, and a visible gap opened up between the seat stay and the infinity link. Turning it that far out was not a great feeling but was necessary to create space before hammering on the collet axle. I would be curious how much preload Yeti would consider appropriate for this before you risk damaging your stays by turning out the collet axle?
    2) When I hammered the collet axle it took a fairly significant strike to get it to move. Hard to quantify, but I would say it was about half of a full swing, not just tapping it using your wrist muscles. I used a 1.5 lb deadblow hammer and there was enough force being transferred through that I had to put the wheel back on and put the bike on the ground as there was no way to clamp it in the work stand and do this without the bike spinning around.

    Further note, I used a half inch diameter concrete wedge anchor bolt as the pin against the collet bolt. The anchor bolts have a somewhat rounded tip on the threaded end, and this mated nicely with the hollow collet axle so that I wasnít afraid of the pin moving and gouging the frame when I hit it.

    Hopefully some of that helps Ė good luck!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    47
    So I just went through the fun of getting my infinity link axle axle out of my 14 month old SB6 with a hammer and punch and a lot of swearing. The upper axle was a breeze and still had grease on it. So what is the consensus on this lower axle, anti-seize or waterproof grease? I know on my previous Pivot 5.7 the recommendation was anti-seize. My intent is not to have to pull the axle more than twice a year for a clean and re-coat and I live in the Pacific Northwest with a mix of wet and dry conditions.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yeti575inCA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    2,491
    Refer to the manual.. i believe its greased..

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    148
    A tip when removing the swing arm. Leave the shock in and loosen the axles off first. Stops it all spreading apart.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    1
    I had the main pivot bolt stuck in a SB5C, after trying many ways of trying to get it out including using a slide hammer screwed into where the collet bolt goes, this is what worked without any major problems.

    1. Start with the main pivot bolt, do not remove any of the other bolts and keep the rear wheel in, I removed the cranks just to keep them out of the way.

    2. I used a freezing penetrating spray (FinishLine Chill Zone Freezing Penetrant) which apparently takes it down to -40degC (the aluminium has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel so shrinks more). Spraying it onto both sides of the Switch Infinity link bearings and also on the inside of the pivot bolt.

    3. Waited for about five minutes then undid the main pivot bolt a couple of turns, then used the slide hammer, until the bolt started to withdraw and repeated until the bolt could be removed.

    It came out cleanly and without too much drama. I think the key is the freezing spray, coupled with using a slide hammer.

Similar Threads

  1. Removing main pivot and link wear-Insurgent
    By kenwood72 in forum Evil Bikes
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 09-09-2017, 03:30 PM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-23-2015, 08:57 PM
  3. Rear Triangle for M, L, XL 2007 Pivot Mach 5
    By sannabel in forum Pivot Cycles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-19-2014, 09:24 PM
  4. Horst Link VS. Unified Rear Triangle
    By blown240 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-06-2013, 09:19 AM
  5. DW link rear triangle crank clearance
    By edubfromktown in forum Turner
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-13-2011, 02:45 PM

Members who have read this thread: 6

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

mtbr.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.