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  1. #1
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    SB6C - Main pivot pin for rear triangle fused in Infinity Link?

    I am trying to remove the rear triangle on my SB6C, and am unable to get the 10mm main pivot pin that goes through the infinity link bearings out. The pin turns, however it wonít back out of the frame (the upper pin at the dog bone link will). If I turn out the pin the chain stays want to splay apart instead of the pin coming out.

    Iíve tried tapping on the threaded end of the pin with a rubber mallet and steel bar after turning the pin about ĺ turn, and that was unsuccessful.

    Iíve also tried clamping the rear triangle so the stays canít open up, but even then, the wood blocks I used started crushing instead of the pin backing out, so I backed off out of fear of damaging the rear triangle.

    Iím thinking the aluminum pivot pin has fused into the steel bearing race inside the infinity link?

    Has anybody else had a similar issue? Any advice? If there is already a post on this issue, I would appreciate it if someone could direct me to it, as I havenít been able to find this issue in the Yeti forum. SB6C - Main pivot pin for rear triangle fused in Infinity Link?-img_0975.jpg

  2. #2
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    When I first tried to tear down my frame I had the same issue. But not nearly as tough as yours. Anyways I just used my 8mm and used a mallet to tap it out slowly. Eventually it backed out. The spacer inside between the bearings is a tight fit. Also the carbon was covering the bolt a bit which made it tough to back out. I used a ton of slick honey lube to get it back through. But now it's a tad easier to tear down. I have done it a 2 more times since.
    The trick is have some one tap it as you spin it. Had my wife help me.

    Good luck.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    The trick is have some one tap it as you spin it. Had my wife help me.

    Good luck.
    Thanks doodooboi, I'll give that a try later this week and post back.
    I've got the bike booked to go to the LBS at the end of the week, it's just under my skin that I cant get the bolt out! :-)

  4. #4
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    Same thing happend on my (and other's) SB95. I used a wooden dowel and shaved it down to the size of the bolt and just gave it a few good whacks until it came out. Wasn't fun swinging a hammer towards the frame but it worked. Good luck!

  5. #5
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    I was able to get the pivot bolt out of the infinity link last night! After loosening the bolt by a little over a turn I wound up putting the rear wheel back onto the bike so I could put it on the ground instead of having it spin in the work stand. Following the advice I received from the above forum posts was then able to ďtapĒ the bolt using a slightly undersized steel pin until the pivot bolt finally backed out of the bearing. These initial taps were a lot harder than I would have thought necessary to get the bolt moving (like pretty much full swings), but it did finally break free!

    Thanks for your help with this!

  6. #6
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    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav Storie View Post
    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike
    I would strongly advise you not to do that. Just take it to a shop or call yeti and see what's your alternative before drilling. Doing so with the tight margins of a carbon frame, bad things can happen quickly.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav Storie View Post
    im currently at the same stage.. both the pivot bolts are solid. Ive been whacking them for a while now but they aren't for budging...

    looks like i might need to resort to drilling them out.. not what you want on a 9 month old bike
    I would definitely concur with doodoobi, in that you donít want to drill out the pivot axles.

    When I was able to get the axles out of my bike it took two definite steps to get them out:

    1) I had to preload the axle by turning it out one full rotation plus. The pitch on the axle threads is coarse enough that when I did this I could physically see the seat stays splay apart, and a visible gap opened up between the seat stay and the infinity link. Turning it that far out was not a great feeling but was necessary to create space before hammering on the collet axle. I would be curious how much preload Yeti would consider appropriate for this before you risk damaging your stays by turning out the collet axle?
    2) When I hammered the collet axle it took a fairly significant strike to get it to move. Hard to quantify, but I would say it was about half of a full swing, not just tapping it using your wrist muscles. I used a 1.5 lb deadblow hammer and there was enough force being transferred through that I had to put the wheel back on and put the bike on the ground as there was no way to clamp it in the work stand and do this without the bike spinning around.

    Further note, I used a half inch diameter concrete wedge anchor bolt as the pin against the collet bolt. The anchor bolts have a somewhat rounded tip on the threaded end, and this mated nicely with the hollow collet axle so that I wasnít afraid of the pin moving and gouging the frame when I hit it.

    Hopefully some of that helps Ė good luck!

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