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  1. #1
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    SB66 chain guide advice needed

    Just bought a sb66a and am trying to figure out a chain guide. My previous bike was a stumpy evo with the factory blackspire stinger and a sram 2x10 with the type2 derailer.

    Since the race build SB ships with the shimano 3x cranks I'm kind of stuck at the moment for a chain guide. I got used to having a slightly higher ratio (stumpy had 24/36 combo) and the ratio on the SB is way to low (22/32). I'd like to just swap out the middle for a 36, delete the big for a bash and bolt up another blackspire stinger for a guide. Using a ring setup like the race face 24/36/bash.

    Does this sound like a doable setup? Is there going to be too much of a jump from the stock 22 granny to a big 36 middle replacement?

    I've even thought about doing a 1x10 with a single ring guide with intergrated bash on the iscg mount.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  2. #2
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    Sounds good to me. 22/36 worked just fine on 2x9, but may b a tad low on 2x10
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  3. #3
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    Ok, as long as I know it'll shift with that big gap I'll stick with it. Thanks.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  4. #4
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    I used this for a while on my SB-95 until I got a type 2 RD with a clutch. It worked well and it was super simple to use.

    Bionicon C.Guide V.02 Chainguide > Components > Drivetrain > Chain Tensioners and Guides | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
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  5. #5
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    I'm not a big fan of those kinds of units. With the leaves, mud, and snow soon they seem to gum up pretty quick.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  6. #6
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    FWIW, when I changed from 3x to 2x on my 95a the direct-mount D was a problem since it could not be moved vertically to take up some of the gap from the rings to the d-plates. To make 24/36 reliable and happy I had to get a new front D. I ended up dropping the shimano triple derailleur and putting on a SRAM X0 S3 type that was intended for 24/36, and it worked fabulously. It also worked perfectly with the shimano front shifter, with the shifter switched to 2x mode (small screw on the shifter makes the change).

  7. #7
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    Yeah I was pretty sure the front D was going to have to go. But atleast with a direct mount it's an easy swap and no marring to the seat tube
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Just bought a sb66a and am trying to figure out a chain guide. My previous bike was a stumpy evo with the factory blackspire stinger and a sram 2x10 with the type2 derailer.

    Since the race build SB ships with the shimano 3x cranks I'm kind of stuck at the moment for a chain guide. I got used to having a slightly higher ratio (stumpy had 24/36 combo) and the ratio on the SB is way to low (22/32). I'd like to just swap out the middle for a 36, delete the big for a bash and bolt up another blackspire stinger for a guide. Using a ring setup like the race face 24/36/bash.

    Does this sound like a doable setup? Is there going to be too much of a jump from the stock 22 granny to a big 36 middle replacement?

    I've even thought about doing a 1x10 with a single ring guide with intergrated bash on the iscg mount.
    I ran the 22/32/bashring combo for awhile, then I simplified to a a 33T 1x10 setup with an MRP G2 guide. Then several weeks ago, I mounted up a Type 2 rear derailleur and a Wolftooth 30T no-drop chainring (alternating tooth profile for chain retention like XX1) and that let me ditch the top portion of the G2 guide, and so I'm just using it as a bash guard at the moment. I haven't dropped the [unguided] chain even once after thousands of meters of vertical on some really gnarly trails. I'd highly recommend going with such a front ring if you're already considering swapping things around.

  9. #9
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    My LBS recommended a gamut dual. Its the only one they all personally had good luck with.

  10. #10
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    Now that I have the bike a few other things have come up.

    I thought this build was supposed to come with a clutch type rear-D but I guess not. I didn't know the shimano nomanclature for type-2 (sram) so it's my fault.

    but, I was able to swap my two rings (24/36/bash) onto the stock 3x10 cranks along with my xt cassette and sram chain. BUT, this thing is LOUD! It sounds like a freight train coming down the trail. There is so much clanging and banging that I got off the bike more times than I can count.

    After getting so pissed I pulled the chain and coasted down one hill just to see if all the noise was coming from the lack of a clutch derailer. Turns out it wasn't all from there. I guess the cable housing in the seatstay rattles around alot and makes a huge amount of noise. Not sure what I'm going to do about it but it will HAVE to be fixxed!

    I'm leaning toward a 1x10 with a bash/guide insted of the 2x10 shiftable guide/bash. The bike pedals so well I think I can push atleast a 34 on most of my trails. And I can just buy the guide and a step-tooth ring and be done with it.

    Thanks for all the advice guys. Any suggestions for the cable in the seat stay noise?
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post

    I'm leaning toward a 1x10 with a bash/guide insted of the 2x10 shiftable guide/bash. The bike pedals so well I think I can push atleast a 34 on most of my trails. And I can just buy the guide and a step-tooth ring and be done with it.

    Thanks for all the advice guys. Any suggestions for the cable in the seat stay noise?
    As I wrote before, I was in your shoes just this past summer...and if you're gonna commit to 1x10, I would skip the guide, and buy the new front ring and replace the rear derailleur. I really think you'll be happier. I had the guide and the non-type 2 derailleur like you have now and you still get all that crazy chain slap going on. Once you upgrade to the Type 2, you A) hardly have any noise at all from the drivetrain and B) can 99% of the time avoid needing a guide to retain the chain on the front ring assuming you are also running a no-drop ring.

    I'm honestly bombing super rocky chutes, drops, roots, you name it and I've yet to drop a chain. An X9 Type 2 or XT+ rear derailleur will be in the same ballpark as a decent guide in terms of price.

  12. #12
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    Well I really want a bash, even if running a single ring and a clutch type rear-D like you mention. Even if it's just an on the ring bash vs/ a guide w/a bash.

    When doing alot of our log overs and things around here I have a tendancy to peal side plates apart on chains. I used to have the same problem on my bmx/street bike until I started running a 420 dirtbike chain

    I'm pretty set on 1x at this point just due to how well this bike will get up and go. I don't have to spin a low gear to keep the bike moving on longer climbs and I think I can get away with mashing the pedals in a "technically" too tall gear.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Well I really want a bash, even if running a single ring and a clutch type rear-D like you mention. Even if it's just an on the ring bash vs/ a guide w/a bash.

    When doing alot of our log overs and things around here I have a tendancy to peal side plates apart on chains. I used to have the same problem on my bmx/street bike until I started running a 420 dirtbike chain

    I'm pretty set on 1x at this point just due to how well this bike will get up and go. I don't have to spin a low gear to keep the bike moving on longer climbs and I think I can get away with mashing the pedals in a "technically" too tall gear.
    Yeah, I'm not proposing going without a bashguard. I had originally run a ring bash with my 2x10 setup (replaced the big ring with the bash) and then I swapped over to the MRP G2 guide which is a combination guide/bashguard (top/bottom) when I went to 1x10. When I then swapped over to the Wolftooth ring, I simply took off the guide (top) portion of the G2, so I'm still making use of the lower bash guard portion. If I had a ring bash handy, I'd go with that again, but I want a smaller one to match my 30T front ring now.

    Bottom line....I'd recommend Type 2 rear derailleur, no-drop front ring, and a ring bash to go with it. Skip the guide since it's just going to cause drag and likely rub with a dirty chain or if even slightly out of adjustment (my experience).

    I really like the Wolftooth stuff.

  14. #14
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    ok. I was able to find a 34t race face ring. Really excited to try it. Also bought an xt shadow plus rear derailer. I figure I can run 1x with that setup and still use my bash like hugerooster mentioned. and not to mention a couple spare hangers and that iscg thingy for the frame just in case.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  15. #15
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    I'm running an SRAM 22/33/bash on my sb-66a. The blackspire stinger doesn't fit out of the box. The first problem is that it's screw heads protrude and rub the small chainring. Filing them down fixes that but the clearance remains very tight. Second, the chain rubs against the body of the stinger in low gears. Bending the guide might fix that, I was annoyed enough that I just took the thing off. I googled and saw lots of peeps complaining about these two issues.

  16. #16
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    related...

    When I mounted an MRP AMG on my '95 I had to use both a thin and thick washer to space the back-plate away from the frame, or the back plate would rub the front of the rear triangle, with force.

    Once I did that set I had to add 2mm of crank spindle spacers on the drive-side to push the chainring away from the top guide so it would run clear.

    This is using a XT 3x front crankset with the ring mounted middle.

    I may eventually try mounting the ring 'outer' but I'm not sure I'm going to like the chain-line to the largest cogs when I do.

  17. #17
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    I too had issues getting a chain guide to work. I ended up using a E13 DRS and had to file quite a bit off to gain enough clearance so it wouldn't rub the frame. The granny gear bolts are VERY close to the chain guide but they do clear and don't rub. I am running an old pair of Holzfeller dual ring ISIS cranks. Yeah old school, I know.

  18. #18
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    Well I had my best ride with the bike yet. Bought a shimano type II rear derailer, and a race face narrow/wide front ring. No chain drops and it rides awesome. Once pricepoint gets them back in stock I'll have a 34 on the bike but for now a 36 works (only size I could find in stock). The bike pedals so well I don't feel the need for a granny right now.

    I'm liking the bike alot so far. Not sure If I'll even put a guide on it. If anything I think I might try the e13 amg bash and do away with my bash ring. With all the leaves down they start to build up on a regualr bash ring and gum up a big ring pretty quick.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  19. #19
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    MRP 2X chainguide works awesome on my 575. Has a built in bash, is very quiet, shifting is smooth, zero chain slap.
    2011 Yeti 575 - 2015 Fox Float 36 RC2 160 / Fox Float X - 30.6 lbs

  20. #20
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    Seems like I'm riding faster and harder now. Tossed my chain to the inside of the crank arm 4-5 times now and that's enough for me.

    Going between the e*thirteen LG1+ and MRP mini G3. Both have decent reviews so I think it's just a matter of flipping a coin. Like that I can go down to a 32T ring on the MRP (run a 34T now) but other than that they seem pretty equal.

    Advise?
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Seems like I'm riding faster and harder now. Tossed my chain to the inside of the crank arm 4-5 times now and that's enough for me.

    Going between the e*thirteen LG1+ and MRP mini G3. Both have decent reviews so I think it's just a matter of flipping a coin. Like that I can go down to a 32T ring on the MRP (run a 34T now) but other than that they seem pretty equal.

    Advise?

    Sooo, the Narrow-Wide front chainring and the Type 2 RD aren't cutting it anymore? I am about to switch to this set-up....
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  22. #22
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    Nope. Have a couple rough spots on our trails and when heading down (20-30 mph) the chain will take a hop off the ring and land on the inside of the cranks.

    I used to have an issue with my King hub pushing the chain off but after a rebuild and cleaning of the hub guts it free-wheels much easier.

    And! I had an xt cassette and sram 1051 chain before. Now running a sram 1070 cassette and 1051 chain. The chain is fresh so I know that isn't a contributing factor.

    As soon as the rear gets a few good hits, vibrating consecutive type hits, it'll spit the chain. Used to not be a big deal with a front derailer because I could just shift up and the derailer would push the chain back on. Now there isn't anything there to help and I'm damn sure not going to reach down and put it back on mid-dh
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

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