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SB 95 coming next month

39K views 291 replies 68 participants last post by  FIKO 
#1 ·
My local LBS, a volume dealer, confirmed with Yeti today that SB 95's are on track to deliver initial orders next month!
 
#79 ·
BHR: Thanks for the info.

I have a CroMag post clamp QR that is going on mine, at least until I get a dropper post. That plus dropping the big ring and putting on a bash like you did, and converting to tubeless is first up on my mods list.

I can't really fault Yeti for the saddle issue though, in my experience saddles are even more a personal choice than pedals - what fits one riders' taint is very likely agonizing for another.
 
#88 ·
Thanks, that's what I have going on my Honzo, along with their wheel QR skewer, very stout looking. Can't wait to try it out, even though it's going with a Reverb post lol.

I'm just surpirsed that the Salsa clamp is slipping, I have a DKG QR on another bike and it's been great, same design like the Salsa minus logo.
 
#93 ·
Second ride tonight. Consisted of ~15 miles of very technical single track. Lots of rocks, very tight ascending turns, and some bigger drops/couple tabletops/few doubles.

The suspension has really hit its stride. I was a little concerned after yesterday's ride. It felt kind of tight. Everything has loosened up and is sliding very nicely. The new kashima coated stuff might need some break in time before its best is shown.

Table tops and doubles are another story for me right now. I'm not use to how the suspension responds so it's hard to get everything to compress and release at the right times. I'm probably going to have to play with the compression/rebound to get it to where I'm use to for launching. Cased pretty much all my landings on the jump line at storm.

Bigger drops (3+ ft) are also a little sketchy. Feels like the rebound might be set to too fast. Definitely going to play with these settings.

In general, I'm riding with both shocks full open over all terrain. It climbs so well I see zero need for lockout/propedal. Also, riding technical terrain is incredibly easy now. It holds lines very well so skinnies/rock ridges are easy. The suspension doesn't wallow through really bouncy terrain.
 
#95 ·
Nice ride Okie! I just saw the black 95 frame in person at LBS the other day and I kind of prefer the matt black finish to my shiny black 66 as well.

FWIW, you should be able to tighten down the stock Salsa seat clamp by snugging up the bolt on other side of QR. Doesn't take much torque at all and should be able to get as tight as you need. I am about 220-225 rider weight, grease the heck out of my standard Thomson post and inner seat tube to minimize scuffing and ride my 66 pretty hard and able to keep in the post in place no probs. If you are still not happy with the stock clamp, Chromag makes a schweet QR clamp I would check out.

HAppy riding the new rig, looks sweet and I wouldn't mind having a 95 to compliment my 66 (heavy trail/light DH build) for more flatter, pedally, chuttery terrain and keep the 66 for the burmy, jumpy, shreddy terrain.
 
#96 ·
Almost done...

For those that do not know these come out of the box as a frame with a box of parts. Everything has to be done, from pressing headset to trimming the brake lines. We have been really swamped since this bike has shown up, go figure the bike we are all itching to throw a leg over keeps getting it's build stalled. Will post up some glamour shots showing good detail once she is done.

 
#98 ·
Looks great!

BTW:

Another good seatpost slipping solution: Steal some chalk from a kid or a teacher. Clean the post/seattube and chalk it with the chalk :D

Works great. Compared to grease or the carbon paste, the chalk won´t collect dust and other dirt. Cheap too.


Greetings Znarf
 
#101 ·
Third Ride

Third ride consisted of a 15 mile lollipop near a creek bed, then up a punishing climb, and lastly down a section of the centennial trail. The bike was surprisingly well behaved in the creek bed area which consists of 12-30 inch dry rocks with loose sediment around them. Unlike my previous bike, the suspension did not wallow when the tires rolled down between two large rocks and my moment came to a screeching halt. Instead I was able to hop up into a track stand when stuck and hop out without the suspension engaging heavily. Very impressed here!

The ascent itself was just a real grinder up ancient quad/moto trail. Rocked out in places and heavy grass cover in others. I'm still amazed by the amount of traction the racing ralphs provide. I had just expected to need to toss them and throw on Nevegals but they are proving to be contenders. The only problems that I've had with them are first, when descending at speed and running into tight, descending corners with loose rocks they tend to slide out a bit (probably because I'm going so much faster than my previous ride). The second problem that I have is that long rock edges that aren't directly perpendicular to the direction of travel can cause the tires to lose traction and slide along the edge. I imagine this is due to the smaller knobs.

The descent consisted of two section. The first was a very windy, rocked out section of trail with many kickers and drops along the way for spice. The small bump compliance at speed is amazing (maybe also due to the carbon bars? I've heard these help a lot there as well). Feels like smooth single track. At low speed small rocks are noticeable (perhaps more suspension work here for me?). Just like along the second ride, I also noticed that the suspension is getting progressively plusher. Just feels like everything is sliding better. I also decreased the rebound rate of the front and rear shocks by 2 turns. Very noticeable impact. I'm now able to precompress the suspension for kickers/drops as I had previously. I didn't notice any impact on the suspension otherwise. The second section was twisty hardpacked single track. Was able to rail the corners with confidence.

Lastly, the speed of both climbing and comfortable descending is amazing. I was riding in a group with carbon nomads and blurs and I was leading both up and down without heroic effort. On the SJ previously I was middle of the pack on the way up and down.
 

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#112 ·
Recovery ride today, ~22 miles of non-technical single track. Nothing steep and smooth lines all the way. I've finally found some terrain that the Racing Ralphs don't perform well on:
2 inches of pine needles/2 inch rocks. The front kept on sliding out around sharp descending corners.

Also gave up on the stock grips. Just too thin for my taste. Went with some thicker ones to cut down on wrist fatigue.

Tried out the pro-pedal for giggles. Didn't really make a noticeable difference. Going to stick with full open.

Lastly, opened up my rear shock rebound by a couple of clicks. BINGO. Can now precompress the suspension for drops/jumps. I'm still surprised how much of a difference 1-2 clicks makes on these settings.
 
#118 ·
I've hit the 1 week mark with the bike and am right around 150 miles ridden so far. Last area a I rode had a fire just a couple of weeks ago that burned up the hill side. Neat to see the new green poking through the burn.

To recap, I'm running the stock XT build with a bash guard/chain ring and soon to be installed dropper post. I recommend the following to be done immediately if you get this bike...before the first ride:

1. Change out the grips for something thicker.
2. Change out the seat for something more comfortable.
3. Put on chainstay protectors on the upper and lower stays (There are obvious areas of rubbing on my lizard skins I put on).
4. Definitely get a down tube protector.

Things to possibly consider changing:
1. Front tire. It's a racing ralph stock build. Good for XC, not so good for all mountain, particularly if you live in drier conditions where the rocks are covered in fine dust. Clean rocks are fine, but dusty are pretty sketchy. They are also particularly bad in pine needle/loose coverage areas. The knobs just don't bite through far enough to connect with the underlying terrain. However, with that said, I've overall been very impressed with this tire's low rolling resistance to grip ratio. Much better than most others I've tried. This is my first set of schwalbe tires so I think I'll try out their knobby knicks and more aggressive hans damfs or whatever it's called.
2. I've been less than impressed with the stopping power of the brakes. I'm coming from sram elixers with 205 mm rotors so I'm use to near unlimited stopping power. Consider upgraded rotors.
3. If you plan to run it as a 2x front, consider buying the shimano specific 2x front derailer (~$40). The action is much smoother and provides better alignment. The stock shifter is compatible.
4. The rear hub is only OK. I expect to break it and when I do I'll upgrade to something stronger like a Hope Pro II EVO.

Lastly, I've been running the front at 120mm. I think I'll pull the spacers and try it at 140mm for kicks.
 

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#120 ·
bhr: truly appreciate your continued comments and pixels!

what do you find "meh" about the rear hub? It's my understanding that they're DT 350 hubs which are cheaper-made shells with 240s internals. I plan on putting the 36t engagement upgrade into mine when I get it (I've them on my DT 440 hubs and it's a nice upgrade).

noted about the 2x front-d. nice.
 
#121 ·
I'm a known hub destroyer. Had 240s on my last bike and destroyed it in less than 1 year of riding after several free hub replacements. Also played with the start ratchet system. That is a nightmare if you're are a high torque rider (I have lots of single speed time so I naturally crank harder than std.). Much easier to destroy than the standard internals due to the smaller ratchets. More engagement but easier to destroy.

Hope Pro II EVOs have been the only things that have survived for any length of time (with the upgraded free hub) under me, though I have never tried King hubs due to insane cost. The Hope's are also super loud and double as a rattle snake/bear/mtn lion/other rider alert system.
 
#123 ·
Finally...

Got 'er today and thought I'd throw a few pics up and a few snap comparisons. First the build:

-XL
-XT black shifters, rear derailleur, cassette, and brakes
-Carbon Haven bars and wheels; thru-axle rear
-Alu Haven seatpost and stem
-Fox Talas TerraLogic
-Racing Ralph rear, Nobby Nic front

Other bikes I have extensive riding time on

Compared to a Rip9:
Pedals about the same, maybe a touch better, corners about the same and the stiffness is about the same. The geometry on the Yeti is much better.

Compared to a carbon Tallboy:
It blows this bike away, pedals better, stiffer, and corners tons better. I've yet to figure out the love affair with this bike.

Compared to a Intense Tracer29: (ridden w/Fox 34)
Much much stiffer rear end even with the thru-axle. This bike is the best technical climbing bike I've ever been on. Even at 32 lbs. it climbed like it was 25. Other than the flexy rear end this is a great bike to get rowdy on but in the end it's too much bike for the area I ride. I know it and the Tallboy are both VPP2 bikes, this one feels much better than the Santa Cruz, and I'm an old fan of SC, my 2002 Heckler was a beloved machine.

Compared to a 2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 29:
No comparison, much better handling and pedaling bike.

I can't wait to see if the suspension gets better like BHR mentioned.

And yes, I know I suck with a camera in my hands.
 

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#126 ·
Got 'er today and thought I'd throw a few pics up and a few snap comparisons. First the build:

-XL
-XT black shifters, rear derailleur, cassette, and brakes
-Carbon Haven bars and wheels; thru-axle rear
-Alu Haven seatpost and stem
-Fox Talas TerraLogic
-Racing Ralph rear, Nobby Nic front

Other bikes I have extensive riding time on

Compared to a Rip9:
Pedals about the same, maybe a touch better, corners about the same and the stiffness is about the same. The geometry on the Yeti is much better.

Compared to a carbon Tallboy:
It blows this bike away, pedals better, stiffer, and corners tons better. I've yet to figure out the love affair with this bike.

Compared to a Intense Tracer29: (ridden w/Fox 34)
Much much stiffer rear end even with the thru-axle. This bike is the best technical climbing bike I've ever been on. Even at 32 lbs. it climbed like it was 25. Other than the flexy rear end this is a great bike to get rowdy on but in the end it's too much bike for the area I ride. I know it and the Tallboy are both VPP2 bikes, this one feels much better than the Santa Cruz, and I'm an old fan of SC, my 2002 Heckler was a beloved machine.

Compared to a 2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 29:
No comparison, much better handling and pedaling bike.

I can't wait to see if the suspension gets better like BHR mentioned.

And yes, I know I suck with a camera in my hands.
Did you happen to weigh the frame only? Curious where the XL comes in. I assume their 7.5 pound quoted weight is for medium.
 
#134 ·
I took delivery of a new Enduro SB 95 yesterday, bike shop said Yeti told them it was the 1st one shipped anyway did my first ride on my local trail,did the easy loops to get the feel and made adjustments. First thing I noticed is that it does not feel like a 30lb. Bike it moves out quick corners and climbs excellent set the rear shock to open and forget it. I got the med. I am 5'8" and would recommend anyone bigger than me may want to consider a large. Since I have the seat set back as far as it will go and that's still not enough. I have a setback Thompson and I'm going to try that to get the seat centered. Anyway that's my first ride and will try and update with pic's and more setup info.
 
#138 ·
Scratch and dent sale :(

It had to happen sooner or later, but wow what a doozy!

I like how a friend put it: "Bikes aren't like show cars with perfect finishes. They're like an Apache helicopter. Perfectly maintained but with battle scars."

Another note about the bike. I started out with 225psi in the shock and didn't measure sag and the ride was awesome. I got to thinking that it could be even better with a little more pressure so on my 2nd ride I went with 235 and it wasn't, so on this the 3rd ride I went the other way down to 215psi and measured the sag which was within 1/16" of being exactly 25% sag and wow did that ever make a difference. I don't understand how less psi make a bike pedal better but it does. I can highly recommend paying attention to the sag now.
 

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#139 ·
"Bikes aren't like show cars with perfect finishes. They're like an Apache helicopter. Perfectly maintained but with battle scars."
That's GREAT! I was in the USArmy slaved to an Apache battallion for too many years (I'm *not* an aviation type) so very poignant to me. Plus, I've seen how badly damaged an Apache can be and still be flight-worthy ... and how more damaged they can get and still fly home and have both occupants walk away ... so if the sb95 is that burly I'm confident it'll serve us well!

I don't understand how less psi make a bike pedal better but it does.
My guess is that it puts the suspension into the sweet spot where the chain-forces work best with the suspension design. I seem to recall that the SC VPP and VPP2 designs are particularly sensitive to this, but I've never owned one so it may just be hear-say.

If you really want to go nuts then keep trying dropping 5 psi in steps until it starts to make you unhappy, then back up to somewhere between the two.

Nice "shot" by the way. Hope you're less damaged than the bike!
 
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