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  1. #201
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    What an awesome weekend! Spent 3 days in Hood River and road my SB-95 a ton. It was really my first time logging lots of miles and really feel like I'm getting it dialed in. Suspension worked quite well- almost unnoticeable. The new Talas was worked hard and I'll probably continue to tinker. SB 95 Build Thread?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1341857117.509878.jpg
    SB 95 Build Thread?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1341857134.536201.jpg

  2. #202
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    What's the largest tire you guys can run out back? I'm a dedicated 1x10 rider so front derailleur clearance is not an issue. I remember reading before they came out that the tire clearance was in the realm of 2.2" on the prototype frames. Is there room for an Ardent 2.4" in there assuming no front der?

  3. #203
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    I've been told by someone that they're running the 2.4 Ardent WITH a front derailleur, with room.

    I can see that on my SB too, and may be trying it.

    Without a front-d I'd not even think twice about it, I'd just put it on and be happy. Plenty of chainstay/seatstay clearance for sure.

    I've been tearing through the 2.2" tires - been getting 220-250 miles per tire (Ikon 3c EXO first, Geax AKA TNT next) and I'm debating going phatter to help mitigate that. Only getting 200 miles or so of good use out of a tire is NOT good enough for my budget!

  4. #204
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    I like the SB95 but I'm also curious about the Banshee Prime. The rumored Knolly 29er might be some of the sexiest aluminum tubes ever made I guess I'll suffer thru the rest of this season with my lowly Sultan There's going to be some serious AM 29ers to choose from next year!

  5. #205
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    I have 2.4 Ardents on front and rear wheel with front derailleur on mine. Very tight, but doable. I love bigger tires.

  6. #206
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    Can we get a picture of the clearance? Not so much of the derailleur cage/tire clearance, more the chainstay seatstay clearances? Just curious how wide it is back there. We get a lot of mud in the Midwest and I'm a big tire whore...

  7. #207
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    Yeah, I will get one up, but I will be honest, you have PLENTY of room with those parts. You could even go bigger and not have to worry about mud. The front derailleur is the one where you are only millimeters away from it. Does anyone know if I can physically move the front derailleur forward some?

  8. #208
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    Lateral clearance is seriously fine. Seatstay clearance is "rediculous".

    Shadder, since the front-d has two bolts in fixed positions holding it in place, I doubt it - unless you fabricate some kind of mounting plate to move it.

    FWIW, I put on Panaracer Rampage 2.35's last night. It's funny, but they're much less tall than the 2.2 Ikon or 2.2 Geax AKA TNT that I had on the back, slightly wider (at the tread). I'll measure / photo them tonight after they have had a set-in ride.
    Last edited by bear; 07-17-2012 at 03:44 AM.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    I've been told by someone that they're running the 2.4 Ardent WITH a front derailleur, with room.

    I can see that on my SB too, and may be trying it.

    Without a front-d I'd not even think twice about it, I'd just put it on and be happy. Plenty of chainstay/seatstay clearance for sure.

    I've been tearing through the 2.2" tires - been getting 220-250 miles per tire (Ikon 3c EXO first, Geax AKA TNT next) and I'm debating going phatter to help mitigate that. Only getting 200 miles or so of good use out of a tire is NOT good enough for my budget!
    I ran into the same problem. I'm running nevegals front and rear now which are finally lasting. Slower but look like they're going to last.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX View Post
    Can we get a picture of the clearance? Not so much of the derailleur cage/tire clearance, more the chainstay seatstay clearances? Just curious how wide it is back there. We get a lot of mud in the Midwest and I'm a big tire whore...
    Attached (unless I goof) are a couple phone pix that I hope help you out.

    The tire is a new (1 ride on it) Panaracer Rampage 2.35, at 35 psi, on a Flow rim.

    it measures 60mm wide at the tread and is approximately 375mm from the axle to the outermost tread point.

    One shot I hope shows clearance to front-d (stock XT), it's hard to wedge my cam-phone in there, I think an off-side shot may be better. There's 10mm or more clearance with the Rampage to the Front D but I think it's harder to see in the pic than I thought.

    One shot I shows you the side clearance well enough. I think there's plenty enough space there, and no many tires that are notably wider than the Rampage - at least that I know of. Somebody have measurements of the Schwably 2.4's on Flow rims that I could compare to? I kind of doubt the Dissent 2.5 from WTB (if you can find it) or a Kodiak would fit with much room to spare, but I think they'd spin. If I was using those tires though i'd probably be doing riding that didn't need a front-d.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SB 95 Build Thread?-img_1292x1024.jpg  

    SB 95 Build Thread?-img_1293x1024.jpg  

    Last edited by bear; 07-18-2012 at 03:46 AM.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHillsRider View Post
    I ran into the same problem. I'm running nevegals front and rear now which are finally lasting. Slower but look like they're going to last.
    *phew* - at least it's not just me!

    we'll see how my Rampage tires work out.

    Oh, I got good endurance of the Slant6 2.2 on my hard-tail, I would give it a go on the SB. I actually was planning to until I looked close at my Ardent on the front and decided I felt the need for two new tires, and the shop had the pair of Rampage, and well you know how that goes.
    Last edited by bear; 07-18-2012 at 03:48 AM.

  12. #212
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    Got my frame/fork yesterday - stoked! I'll finish it up today and post some pics.

  13. #213
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    Bear, thanks for the pics! Not a huge amount of clearance compared to my Sultan but definitely enough. My concerns are appeased Looks like I'll be having some SB95 pics of my own to post in a few weeks!

  14. #214
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    Got mine up and running. Just one ride so far and still need to do some tweaking, but really digging it. I'm coming off a SC Tallboy and I also have a SB66. The 95 feels like a mix of those two bikes. Couple o' pics.


  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    Got mine up and running. Just one ride so far and still need to do some tweaking, but really digging it. I'm coming off a SC Tallboy and I also have a SB66. The 95 feels like a mix of those two bikes. Couple o' pics.
    You have TOO MUCH MONEY for bikes.

    But I applaud you.

    Nice clean 'stealth' bike.

    Once you've had a few more rides it'd be interesting to hear your impressions TB vs SB.

  16. #216
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    I have a very noob question and you guys seem to know your stuff. I recently got a stock SB95 built by a local bike shop. I went on a group ride and a guy I trusted told me I should inspect my bike for defective hardware and loose bolts. I noticed the headset cap bolt was pretty loose and he took his multi-tool and tightened it as hard as he could. I mean VERY tight. This made me paranoid so I left the ride early to do some research. I quickly discovered that this bolt should only be hand tightened and not torqued. The stem was never loosened from the steerer, the cap was just tightened too much. I have since loosened it up and there doesn't seem to be any issues. Could this have potentially caused any issues? Should I be looking for anything that may have been damaged? Thanks ahead of time....I'm kind of stressing about it.

  17. #217
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    You're fine. Some weight weenies actually take the cap and bolt off after the stem is tightened down to save a few grams! You lucked out this time Next time someone goes King Kong on your ride, punch him in the jimmie!

  18. #218
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    You're fine. Once the stem is tightened on the forks steerer, there's not much that stem cap bolt actually does. Non-weight weenies actually mount novelties or accessories using that bolt, like a "step captain" clock/thermometer/compass or a cyclometer, or whatever.

  19. #219
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    Where'd you buy the bike? Bikes don't come shipped fully built. The bike shop.you bought it from built it that way.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  20. #220
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    Just ride the bike, but every couple rides just take a look to make sure nothing is working loose or anything like that.

    Biggest problem I can see is ham-handed assembly, with over-tightened components - had a few of those on mine, with one remaining (they screwed on the cassette lock ring so tight I can't unscrew it). That'll wait until the cassette wears though and I go in to force them to take it off for me - but not install the new one.

  21. #221
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    Small frame, since I'm a rather small ninja
    Fork set to 120mm, and keeping it that way

    Upgrades:
    Bars: Enve DH Riser, cut to 29" (740mm)
    Grips: ODI Rogue, with Blue Lock-ons
    Pedals:Twenty6 Prerunner Pedals, with Ti Axles and steel pins
    Seatpost: Rock Shox Reverb
    Saddle: WTB Rocket V SLT
    Wheels: Edge XC 29 rims, Sapim CX Ray Spokes, Pillar Nipples, Chris King ISO disc 28H hubs, QTubes Superlight Tubes
    Front Tire: Maxxis Ikon 29x2.2 eXC 3c EXO

    Accessories:
    Bionicon C Guide v.02
    RaceFace crank boots
    Crankskins
    King Stainless Bottle Cage
    K-Edge GoPro Handlebar mount
    Garmin Edge 200

    Personal customization:
    Dragon decal on Switch Link
    Turquoise Yeti decals on swingarm
    White Yeti decals on fork
    Turquoise zip ties for dropper post hose

    29.0 lbs, as shown.

    Needs a few more adjustments still. Will be dirty for the next pics.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 09-06-2012 at 04:24 PM.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by poowilliams View Post
    ...and he took his multi-tool and tightened it as hard as he could. I mean VERY tight...
    Since there aren't thrust bearings in a headset, I'd get that jagoff's name so that he can pay up when they fail. Headsets should never be that tight! It can damage the bearings. Loosen it and the stem bolts and tighten the headset bolt to a light handshake feeling. Check that there is no play in the fork steerer. Align stem to wheel. Tighten stem bolts to recommended torque, or a very firm handshake, and ride until giggling.

    Skip to threadless adjustment:

    Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threadless Headset Service
    Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live. ~Mark Twain, "Taming the Bicycle"

  23. #223
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    Varaxis, I have "rim envy" - ha ha ha! Sweet ride man, sweeet.

    29lbs? Makes me feel better for my 32# "L" - especially since I'm running phat tyres.

  24. #224
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    how do you like that chain guide? thinking of adding one to my 575

  25. #225
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    It's pretty much set and forget. I don't even think about it.

    Had chain drop issues when I demo'd the SB-95 for the first time, especially on big drops, but that was on a pre-prod model with such poor FD alignment that it didn't shift into the big ring. 2nd demo one, which had chain rub, didn't drop any chains.

    It's quiet and I don't notice my drivetrain making a racket in the woods. What I do notice is my left pedal clicking every time it gets to the 1 o'clock position (viewed from non drive side). I need to fix that.


    Punny, bear.

    It was 29 lbs when I first got it, and 29 lbs after everything I added to it, with the front tire and wheels accounting for most the weight loss.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    how do you like that chain guide? thinking of adding one to my 575
    FWIW, I have had a bionicon guide on my '95 since day 1 and it's been great.

    BUT,

    I spent a day of moderate DH at Burke Mtn in VT (next to/part-of Kingdom Trails) doing lift-served riding on their lower trails and by the end of the day I had managed to destroy the mount - the plastic bit that runs through the aluminum part next to the stay. Replacing it with a metal bit would yield a more durable component I think.

    Good thing for spares though.

  27. #227
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    Did you run it a 3rd zip tie securing it at the middle point? The included zip ties didn't fit around the massive Yeti stays, so I sourced one later for it. I heard the guide broke there, from looking up reviews on it, and mine came with an additional manual that directs you to put a zip tie there.

    Edit: wow, I should really preview my posts in the mornings.

  28. #228
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    No, that installation didn't - but the current installation does.

    +1 for RTFM (don't recall if my original had the extra page in it saying so, could have, don't know)

  29. #229
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    Well Im back! Yep its been awhile.....I bought my first Yeti in 89' I was 15 and worked for 6 months as a ranch hand to buy a sweet black FRO frame. Swapped all my Hardrock parts over threw on some BullsEye cranks and rode that thing like it was stolen for years before the full suspension bug took over. Anyway here is my new whip.

    Large
    Its a race build with a few mods.
    Havoc bars (29.5")
    Straitline stem (35mm)
    GD 5" post
    WTB pure SVT saddle
    XTR trail brakes
    XTR pods and rear plus der.
    BBG bash ring
    Straitline Pedals (machine tuned)
    RR 2.4 front and 2.25 rear
    XX cassette

    So its floats between 30 and 29.XXX on my dig scale

    Plan on running the wheels till they are square then....?

    I know Im preaching to the choir but he bike rips! Coming off a Evo Stumpy, the bike snaps under pedal and the geo is spot on. Feels lighter then it is and comes alive when it things get rowdy. I need to tune the rear shock to make it a bit more progressive and I miss the top side mounted bottle cage. So far so good.....and so good to be back on a Black Yeti.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SB 95 Build Thread?-img_2088.jpeg  

    Enjoy every ride!

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by m-dub View Post
    Well Im back! Yep its been awhile.....I bought my first Yeti in 89' I was 15 and worked for 6 months as a ranch hand to buy a sweet black FRO frame. Swapped all my Hardrock parts over threw on some BullsEye cranks and rode that thing like it was stolen for years before the full suspension bug took over. Anyway here is my new whip.

    Large
    Its a race build with a few mods.
    Havoc bars (29.5")
    Straitline stem (35mm)
    GD 5" post
    WTB pure SVT saddle
    XTR trail brakes
    XTR pods and rear plus der.
    BBG bash ring
    Straitline Pedals (machine tuned)
    RR 2.4 front and 2.25 rear
    XX cassette

    So its floats between 30 and 29.XXX on my dig scale:
    Are you running a 1X10? If so can you provide details?

  31. #231
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    Nope Its 2X ( well really 3X with the stops dialed in and a bash ring in place of the big ring) Had plans to run 1X and may still but have a few big climbs that just kill the legs and have me begging for that granny.
    Last edited by m-dub; 10-23-2012 at 07:13 PM.
    Enjoy every ride!

  32. #232
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    Fall fun on the 95. This bike rips!


  33. #233
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    Nice stuff "dog" !

  34. #234
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    I should have my frame by the end of the week. For the initial build, I'm stripping most of the parts off my Spearfish and the SS will donate it's crank. The rest is odds and ends I have laying around. Not sure what I will end up with for a fork or crank. Looking at an AKA 2.2 crank (1x w/bling ring or 2x w/ 24/36 rings) and would like to end up with a Lefty supermax fork.

    Reba XX qr fork
    Old Raceface evolve crank w/ 32t ring
    e13 xcx guide E2/S3 mount
    x9 type 2 der
    x0 gripshift
    1050 cassette
    mt4 brakes
    Truvativ T30 seatpost
    Silverado seat
    60mm stem
    29" bars
    light-bicycle 30mm carbon rims
    dt 350 rear hub

  35. #235
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    28.1 lbs as pictured. Only got about 3hrs on it so far and I'm still getting the suspension dialed, but I'm really impressed with the rear suspension. Wish the shock had a few more clicks of rebound on the fast end. Initially, not overly impressed with the CTD shock. Hopefully it grows on me. The e13 e-type guide works really well. The shims it comes with aren't the greatest but I had some washers laying around that did the trick.

  36. #236
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    I'm blogging my Yeti SB95 build on Google's Blogspot. So far so good; now I'm waiting on DT Swiss straight pull spokes to go with my Arch ZTR rims.

    sasquatch29er.blogspot.com

  37. #237
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    cool sasquatch.

  38. #238
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    Well I bought mine pretty much the way I wanted with the full XT setup but I did change a couple things.

    - Stan's Flow EX wheel sets
    - Selle SMP Plus seat
    - VP 69 flats

    I've been riding it around town due to wet trails.



    Rode it up our 8 story garage today...nice hill exercise.

    Last edited by 50calray; 01-15-2013 at 05:08 PM.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch29 View Post
    I'm blogging my Yeti SB95 build on Google's Blogspot. So far so good; now I'm waiting on DT Swiss straight pull spokes to go with my Arch ZTR rims.

    sasquatch29er.blogspot.com
    Nice attention to assembly details

  40. #240
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    Looking to buy a large SB-95, ideally x9 or xt kit, preferably black. Please let me know if you come across one or find that it's not the perfect fit for your riding or local trails! The large blacks sold out too quickly when Yeti began discounting to their online dealers...

  41. #241
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    Check with Cadence Cyclery in McKinney, TX. I know they had one for awhile. It was an XT build. Last time I went there, they still had one. I don't know where you are located, but they may ship!!! Good luck!!

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadder View Post
    Check with Cadence Cyclery in McKinney, TX. I know they had one for awhile. It was an XT build. Last time I went there, they still had one. I don't know where you are located, but they may ship!!! Good luck!!
    Hum...they used to have one but it was recently sold to some guy in Dallas

  43. #243
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    I need help!

    I'm having difficulty getting my 2013 fox fork tightend up securely into the zero stack Chris King headset on my 2012 SB95. There is a small bit of slop that I can't get out. It feels like the star nut slips too easily, and I am unable to compress the headset together enough? Anyone have any problems with this or any ideas? Thanks, T.
    Cholla Pin Cushion

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpy_Steve View Post
    Looking to buy a large SB-95, ideally x9 or xt kit, preferably black. Please let me know if you come across one or find that it's not the perfect fit for your riding or local trails! The large blacks sold out too quickly when Yeti began discounting to their online dealers...
    Call Mark at University Cycles here in Austin- think I saw a large on the floor when I was there earlier today.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erTim View Post
    I'm having difficulty getting my 2013 fox fork tightend up securely into the zero stack Chris King headset on my 2012 SB95. There is a small bit of slop that I can't get out. It feels like the star nut slips too easily, and I am unable to compress the headset together enough? Anyone have any problems with this or any ideas? Thanks, T.
    Although it's possible, a properly set star nut really shouldn't slip. Those things have industrial applications with much greater demands than tightening down a headset!

    More likely (from easiest to most complicated):

    1. grease the steertube on your fork, and loosen the stem bolts out ALL the way before installing. It's possible that your stem is snug enough that you can't slam it down all the way without loosening it more.
    2. Add a spacer. You might not be running enough space above the cut on your steertube, and when your cap bottom against the stem, there's still play.
    3. improperly seated headset. Pull, grease, and re-press.
    4. Improperly reemed/faced headtube or tolerance problem with your headset. Given that it's a King (and those guys are tight-tolerance nuts), a potential defect (even a little errant paint!) inside the headtube is more likely.

    Good luck!
    Keith in Corvallis

  46. #246
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    Thank you Oregon SS. I'll try suggestion #2, as it is most likey with my setup. T
    Cholla Pin Cushion

  47. #247
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    I'm interested in hearing what fixes it, other than buying new parts. I had the issue on a stock '10 Giant Reign X0. I rode it and forgot about it until the guy who came over and bought it noticed it. Only really noticed it rolling it on its back tire, with the front wheel off the ground, and purposely trying to jiggle/rock the steerer. When I brought it to a LBS, the issue remained, was told it wasn't a problem and is ridable, and I was short $20 for a headset adjust and some shop employee might have thought the steerer cap was cool, and apparently replaced it with some generic Giant one.

  48. #248
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    Well, I feel silly. I put on a taller spacer and was able to get the headset compressed and the play out of the headset. It took about 2 minutes. Thanks OregonSS.
    Cholla Pin Cushion

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erTim View Post
    Well, I feel silly. I put on a taller spacer and was able to get the headset compressed and the play out of the headset. It took about 2 minutes. Thanks OregonSS.
    You're not the only one...I had the same issue for about a week with my mukluk before I figured it out haha. The cap was bottoming out on the steerer tube before it tightened up the headset....simple fix though!

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erTim View Post
    Well, I feel silly. I put on a taller spacer and was able to get the headset compressed and the play out of the headset. It took about 2 minutes. Thanks OregonSS.
    Glad it worked! Even if there is visible space above the top of the steer tube, there seems to be this narrow window of just enough space where you think you have it tight enough, but just barely bottom out the cap (learned this one from experience on my SIR).
    Keith in Corvallis

  51. #251
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    I find people that sometimes forget (or don't know) that the star-nut + top-cap is merely for pre-loading the bearings, to take out slop, and that it is the stem which actually holds everything together.

    Don't forget to properly torque the stem bolts down on the steerer or it'll gain slop over time no matter how correctly set initially.

  52. #252
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    Question

    Curious - what made you switch from a Tallboy to a 95? I rode the 95 and liked it. I haven't demo'd a Tallboy yet but wanted to for comparison.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by lwalton View Post
    Curious - what made you switch from a Tallboy to a 95? I rode the 95 and liked it. I haven't demo'd a Tallboy yet but wanted to for comparison.
    Not sure who this is directed to - but I'll bite since I have both bikes. The Yeti didn't replace the tallboy for me, it was in addition to. Was looking for a longer travel 29er (I have the 100mm original tallboy with 110mm fork). I wanted the long-travel tallboy, but at the time Santa Cruz was completing full bike orders first, so it wasn't really available as a frame only, and they also didn't product the XXL size, which is what I ride on the original tallboy. Last - I hate both color schemes on the tallboy LT.

    In terms of differences - handling is the biggest. I have a 140mm fork on the Yeti, and with its slack headtube, it handles significantly differently than the tallboy. I use the TALAS setting on climbs, which helps, but once Push is able to work on 34 forks, I may convert it to a float at 130mm. Might also consider an "angle set" to steepen it slightly. Other than that - Yeti is maybe slightly more efficient suspension design, but that is offset by the heavier weight vs the tallboy IMO (my Yeti is light - around 27lbs, but my tallboy is 24). Travel feels bottomless compared to the Tallboy, and pedal strikes are more rare.

    If/when the carbon SB95 comes out, it could end up replacing both bikes.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by lwalton View Post
    Curious - what made you switch from a Tallboy to a 95? I rode the 95 and liked it. I haven't demo'd a Tallboy yet but wanted to for comparison.
    Never owned the tallboy but had a chance to ride the Tallboy C, Tallboy LTC, Kona & SB95 all back to back. Then a few weeks later test rode again before laying money down. In my opinion it seemed as if the SB95 was the most balanced out of the group.

    Very short impression of each.
    Tallboy C - Really liked the handling but wanted long travel.

    Tallboy LTC - Steering felt slow & unbalanced

    Kona - Liked the ride, suspension felt soft for climbing, very similar to my old bike I was replacing

    SB95 - Pedaled well, felt balanced and suspension followed the trail no matter how poorly I ride it.

    Again this was only one individuals impression of a few bikes, others may like another model over another. It is all a personal choice on what bike feels better.

  55. #255
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    Thanks for the reply. Curious - how'd you get your 95 down to 27 lbs? If I go with the Yeti, I'll swap out for the carbon frame later this year when the arrive. I talked to corp and they guessed mid-summer -> Interbike...

    Quote Originally Posted by RWGreen View Post
    Not sure who this is directed to - but I'll bite since I have both bikes. The Yeti didn't replace the tallboy for me, it was in addition to. Was looking for a longer travel 29er (I have the 100mm original tallboy with 110mm fork). I wanted the long-travel tallboy, but at the time Santa Cruz was completing full bike orders first, so it wasn't really available as a frame only, and they also didn't product the XXL size, which is what I ride on the original tallboy. Last - I hate both color schemes on the tallboy LT.

    In terms of differences - handling is the biggest. I have a 140mm fork on the Yeti, and with its slack headtube, it handles significantly differently than the tallboy. I use the TALAS setting on climbs, which helps, but once Push is able to work on 34 forks, I may convert it to a float at 130mm. Might also consider an "angle set" to steepen it slightly. Other than that - Yeti is maybe slightly more efficient suspension design, but that is offset by the heavier weight vs the tallboy IMO (my Yeti is light - around 27lbs, but my tallboy is 24). Travel feels bottomless compared to the Tallboy, and pedal strikes are more rare.

    If/when the carbon SB95 comes out, it could end up replacing both bikes.

  56. #256
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    Biggest thing is I haven't yet added a dropper post

    There's a recent pic in this thread: Slik Graphics - Yeti Edition Fox Forks Decals

    It's pretty much an XC build with a few expensive parts, but nothing super crazy weight weenie. Here's some component highlights:

    Fox 34 talas
    SRAM XX drivetrain - run as 1x10
    RaceFace SixC cranks
    Thomson masterpiece post / x4 stem
    Easton bar
    Specialized Roval carbon wheels
    Hope race evo m4 brakes
    Specialized captain control 2.2 tires
    Crank bros eggbeater 3 pedals

    I'll need to throw it on the scale again. Haven't weighed it in a while and a few odds and ends have changed since I weighed it before. Maybe a hair under 27. Will post an update after work today.

  57. #257
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    27 lbs? Really? It's 29 lbs stock in the Race/XT setup. Would assume tubeless, wheels, no dropper, maybe an XCish front tire, light pedals, and maybe lighter fork. I know adding pedals and a dropper offset any weight saving changes I made, winding up back at 29.

    Here's my first-hand thoughts on the comparisons:

    I thought the Tallboy had more a bottomless feel, but the Yeti has smoother predictable travel. I don't feel like I have more than 5" of travel, especially when landing flat, but it feels like a quality 5" of travel, in regards to finding traction and smoothing out the trail, and doing so without interfering your rhythm and flow nor requiring you to work with it to get the most out of it. Yeti has a more refined and more efficient pedaling in the saddle feel--it ain't for out of the saddle mashers and therefore lacks the want to mash steadily out of the saddle, but it's no worse than any other "long travel" Yeti model. There's plush, and then there's smooth and controlled. It's like the difference between a beginner's squishy RockShox fork and a skilled rider's Fox fork to me, with the Yeti sort of in between with a "coil feel" and the TB on the old Fox air fork end. It doesn't disagree with short intense accelerations to get up to speed, though it tells you to sit back in the saddle once your speed starts to plateau. Totally agree on lack of pedal strikes compared to the TBc. Yeti is also a more capable technical climber for sure; I've cleared climbs I never have before on any other bike, even with a lower fitness level than ever. It still gets pedal strikes though, but I feel they're more my fault than the bike's, since I'm used to worse.

    The TB LTc's biggest pluses are its out of the saddle pedaling feel, combined with its lower weight, for me. It feels responsive and made the Yeti feel like a dog, at least when trying to copy the same out of the saddle and on the gas riding style as the TB LTc, but the Yeti felt better all around. Impressed me how well the SB95 handled things over the TB LTc, making me a better rider. Feels like the LTc tries to be a "hare" and the SB95 is the turtle, except the TB LTc doesn't compare to other bikes that do a better job as being a hare, and it wasn't what I was looking for in a longer travel 29er. The pedaling on it made it feel awkward on the climbs, when in the saddle. If I were in a group and were behind someone, it'd have a seriously hard time trackstanding if the rider in front decided to stop and dismount, and its steering would flop so much when trying to go around that you'd be zig-zagging up without too much hope for recovery, esp if it were a steel singletrack climb with ruts; it's not bad on gentle fireroad climbs though. It's what I call a bike with personality--editors call it a bike that's not for everyone for a good reason. Feels much more fun to ride when not mixed in a group, as it likes to have room to go at its own pace; you can group ride it, but it will gravitate to wanting to be in front or chasing riders much faster and skilled than you.

    That all said, the Intense Spider 29 Comp is like the in betweener of the TB LTc and SB95. Kinda wish I went that route instead, but it came out after I bought the SB95. Can't say anything really bad about it--it seriously is the only bike that I find is above the SB95 for SoCal trails, erasing thoughts of the 66c and 27.5 bikes. It basically is like the SB95 but feels more responsive, lighter, and encourages out-of-the-saddle stints without really compromising on anything else.

  58. #258
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    Ah, 1x10 and XX and fancy cranks (over XT) helps explain the low weight. My wheels aren't that light either, at 1650ish, due to the portly Chris King hubs.

    bear, I broke my Bionicon guide, despite the 3rd zip-tie. Those things are just fragile, I guess. Didn't even do anything really rough to make it break off, but I did ride really rough after it broke off and didn't miss it having it. The SB95 doesn't seem to benefit from it much at all, judging from that experience. You're still riding without one, right?

  59. #259
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    I found that my SB was really noisy without the bionicon.

    But that could be my trails speaking.

    I am in the middle of winter refresh with the bike, and am switching to a Zee rear derailleur so am going to try w/o the bionicon first.

  60. #260
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    I see no need for a guide with a 1X10 set-up on a SB-95...that is unless the noise bothers you. Never had a problem with that set-up.

  61. #261
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    [QUOTE=Varaxis;10124134]...fancy... helps explain the low weight. QUOTE]

    Yes! Fancy always explains it!

    It's 27.35. Must be the 142x2 rear axle and lock ons that pushed it over the top.

  62. #262
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    Thanks for the detailed breakdown. I liked that in the 95 I never got out of the saddle on climbs. I want to do some racing and my past experience I know getting out of the saddle always lead to fatigue. I'm coming from a '96 GT hardtail.

    I'm going to try and ride a TB next week. Impossible to find an Intense, Pivot, Transition, etc. in ATL. Also trying to rule out 650 but cant find one of those either. I think the high travel FS 29er is right for what I'm doing - N Ga trail riding and racing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    27 lbs? Really? It's 29 lbs stock in the Race/XT setup. Would assume tubeless, wheels, no dropper, maybe an XCish front tire, light pedals, and maybe lighter fork. I know adding pedals and a dropper offset any weight saving changes I made, winding up back at 29.

    Here's my first-hand thoughts on the comparisons:

    I thought the Tallboy had more a bottomless feel, but the Yeti has smoother predictable travel. I don't feel like I have more than 5" of travel, especially when landing flat, but it feels like a quality 5" of travel, in regards to finding traction and smoothing out the trail, and doing so without interfering your rhythm and flow nor requiring you to work with it to get the most out of it. Yeti has a more refined and more efficient pedaling in the saddle feel--it ain't for out of the saddle mashers and therefore lacks the want to mash steadily out of the saddle, but it's no worse than any other "long travel" Yeti model. There's plush, and then there's smooth and controlled. It's like the difference between a beginner's squishy RockShox fork and a skilled rider's Fox fork to me, with the Yeti sort of in between with a "coil feel" and the TB on the old Fox air fork end. It doesn't disagree with short intense accelerations to get up to speed, though it tells you to sit back in the saddle once your speed starts to plateau. Totally agree on lack of pedal strikes compared to the TBc. Yeti is also a more capable technical climber for sure; I've cleared climbs I never have before on any other bike, even with a lower fitness level than ever. It still gets pedal strikes though, but I feel they're more my fault than the bike's, since I'm used to worse.

    The TB LTc's biggest pluses are its out of the saddle pedaling feel, combined with its lower weight, for me. It feels responsive and made the Yeti feel like a dog, at least when trying to copy the same out of the saddle and on the gas riding style as the TB LTc, but the Yeti felt better all around. Impressed me how well the SB95 handled things over the TB LTc, making me a better rider. Feels like the LTc tries to be a "hare" and the SB95 is the turtle, except the TB LTc doesn't compare to other bikes that do a better job as being a hare, and it wasn't what I was looking for in a longer travel 29er. The pedaling on it made it feel awkward on the climbs, when in the saddle. If I were in a group and were behind someone, it'd have a seriously hard time trackstanding if the rider in front decided to stop and dismount, and its steering would flop so much when trying to go around that you'd be zig-zagging up without too much hope for recovery, esp if it were a steel singletrack climb with ruts; it's not bad on gentle fireroad climbs though. It's what I call a bike with personality--editors call it a bike that's not for everyone for a good reason. Feels much more fun to ride when not mixed in a group, as it likes to have room to go at its own pace; you can group ride it, but it will gravitate to wanting to be in front or chasing riders much faster and skilled than you.

    That all said, the Intense Spider 29 Comp is like the in betweener of the TB LTc and SB95. Kinda wish I went that route instead, but it came out after I bought the SB95. Can't say anything really bad about it--it seriously is the only bike that I find is above the SB95 for SoCal trails, erasing thoughts of the 66c and 27.5 bikes. It basically is like the SB95 but feels more responsive, lighter, and encourages out-of-the-saddle stints without really compromising on anything else.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    I found that my SB was really noisy without the bionicon.

    But that could be my trails speaking.

    I am in the middle of winter refresh with the bike, and am switching to a Zee rear derailleur so am going to try w/o the bionicon first.
    I swapped stock rear der for an XT Shadow Plus- really quieted the drive train down (as in virtually no chain slap) and have not had an issue dropping chain since (knock wood). Ride the SB mostly on BCGB, City Park, etc, so plenty of chunk and ledges.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  64. #264
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    I rode the enduro kit and it was pretty quiet. The race kit builds are using the plus derailleurs now which should quiet the ride.

    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    I found that my SB was really noisy without the bionicon.

    But that could be my trails speaking.

    I am in the middle of winter refresh with the bike, and am switching to a Zee rear derailleur so am going to try w/o the bionicon first.

  65. #265
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    I got a chance to sit on a 650 yesterday. Hard to notice the difference in a 26. The more I ride the SB, the more I realize the advantages of the big wheels out-way the disadvantage. My only issue is getting the bike around on tight switchbacks like I do on the 66. I have to slow it down sometimes and force the wheel a bit more. Training and new technique will help I'm sure. Also I've read moving the fork to 140 to slack the HT angle can help that. I do like flicking the big wheels though.
    Quote Originally Posted by lwalton View Post
    Thanks for the detailed breakdown. I liked that in the 95 I never got out of the saddle on climbs. I want to do some racing and my past experience I know getting out of the saddle always lead to fatigue. I'm coming from a '96 GT hardtail.

    I'm going to try and ride a TB next week. Impossible to find an Intense, Pivot, Transition, etc. in ATL. Also trying to rule out 650 but cant find one of those either. I think the high travel FS 29er is right for what I'm doing - N Ga trail riding and racing...

  66. #266
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    I've clocked fair mileage on my '95 with the fork at 140 and at 120.

    I like the slightly increased flickability at 120, it's not a huge difference but it is there. I think climbing switchbacks are a bit easier at 120, i'm not sure there's a material difference downhill. If the turn is VERY short then the "fall into the turn" technique works well for me - starting out wide on the outside and leaning/turning-in abruptly to cut the corner. If the front tire hangs up i'm on my face (at 1 mph), but that doesn't often happen.

    Come spring I am thinking of making a 10mm spacer and setting my fork to 130 and splitting the difference. ;^)

  67. #267
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    I am thinking of pressing the button on a SB95 which will be my first Yeti after a test ride yesterday.

    At the moment I am looking at my build spec and I would love to know how you get a Large frame to get anywhere near some of the weights quoted on this thread!! 30lbs I can almost believe but anything around 28lbs is surely just imagination?

    Would someone post some pictures of the bike in size Large with pedals on actual digital scales to prove these claims and tell me the spec?

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worm0898 View Post
    I am thinking of pressing the button on a SB95 which will be my first Yeti after a test ride yesterday.

    At the moment I am looking at my build spec and I would love to know how you get a Large frame to get anywhere near some of the weights quoted on this thread!! 30lbs I can almost believe but anything around 28lbs is surely just imagination?

    Would someone post some pictures of the bike in size Large with pedals on actual digital scales to prove these claims and tell me the spec?
    Absolutely possible. I got mine down to 28 pounds WITH a dropper post, this means around 27 pounds without. I could even go less, but ther are certain things I am not going to do with out.

    Here is how I could go less:

    Lighter Disc Brakes like Formula.
    Carbon Fiber Riser bars and lose close to 1/4 pound.

    Here is a photo and thread:

    FINALLY.....Yeti SB95 at 28 pounds WITH KS adjustable 125mm Post...

  69. #269
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    Have you got a picture on actual scales? The build on your bike is very serious and you have a medium frame which will equate to being a little lighter my post was aimed at the more normal builds with Stans wheels and XT groupset etc.

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worm0898 View Post
    Have you got a picture on actual scales? The build on your bike is very serious and you have a medium frame which will equate to being a little lighter my post was aimed at the more normal builds with Stans wheels and XT groupset etc.
    No, I weighed mine 3x on a bathroom scale that registers in.10ths.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worm0898 View Post
    Have you got a picture on actual scales? The build on your bike is very serious and you have a medium frame which will equate to being a little lighter my post was aimed at the more normal builds with Stans wheels and XT groupset etc.
    if you want an SB-95 (large) to come in at 27-28 lbs you're probably gonna have to throw some money at it. average build/average cost = average weight. i threw a little money at mine, but mainly i got the weight down by doing a 1x10 set-up and using light-ish weight wheels. no Ti bolt kits, didn't cut my seat post down, etc... i'm also not running a dropper post... but i'd like one.

    i'm sure you could get an SB-95 down under 25 lbs, but would it be really rideable/durable/practical? is the extra several grand worth the few pounds saved? if spending your way to a much lower weight is what you're looking at.. you need to look at the carbon version, or a different bike altogether. good luck!

  72. #272
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    There are plenty of documented builds here in the 28lb range. Mine is right at 28lbs with a basic 1x10 build, a light set of wheels/tires (400g rims/600g tires), and a Reba fork. Seriously, people need pictures of scale readouts??

  73. #273
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    Hoping to pick up an XL frame. Coming off an XL Yeti 5 and worried the top tube is too short on the 95. Any tall bastards riding 95s without concern and long stems. I am 6.4 and normal proportions

  74. #274
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    You'll be great on an XL- I'm 6'5" and all torso (34" inseam), and the XL with stock stem is perfect.
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  75. #275
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    SB 95 Build Thread?

    Quote Originally Posted by johnd663 View Post
    Hoping to pick up an XL frame. Coming off an XL Yeti 5 and worried the top tube is too short on the 95. Any tall bastards riding 95s without concern and long stems. I am 6.4 and normal proportions
    XL should be perfect. I'm 6-2 on a Large (more leg than torso and arms though). The wide handlebars compensate for the shorter stem and top tube.

  76. #276
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    I demo an XL and ride an XL 575 and it was a good fit

  77. #277
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    thanks for the big bloke thoughts - I have pulled the trigger - so excited - now 1 x 10 or 2 x 10?

  78. #278
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    I'm 227lbs and I've decided that I'm going 2x10 XTR Trail as it gives the perfect spread of gears. At least until I get SRAM XX1.

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnd663 View Post
    thanks for the big bloke thoughts - i have pulled the trigger - so excited - now 1 x 10 or 2 x 10?
    1x12

  80. #280
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    The carbon upgrade -

    This bike isn't the same going from a to c. It's unreal

    SB 95 Build Thread?-419597_10200682107991565_174299424_n.jpgSB 95 Build Thread?-968896_10200682108031566_526385115_n.jpg

  81. #281
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    Is the seat at the same height (to pedals) in both the above shots? Looks like less post exposed on the carbon frame, which would mean I need a different dropper to make the switch.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  82. #282
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    y'all are dropping 2# by spending $$$ on your ride, I'm looking at doubling the weight of my shock by spending $.

    I dunno who is crazier.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    y'all are dropping 2# by spending $$$ on your ride, I'm looking at doubling the weight of my shock by spending $.

    I dunno who is crazier.
    We're all a little bit crazy.
    At least for me, going to a CF frame is about feel, nothing else. And no, who can financially justify this stuff?

  84. #284
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    Same seat post - it was just further down when the pic was made. I only got the carbon frame - I put everything from my alloy on the carbon - same geometry.

    So after I sell the alloy w/ a CK headset I'll net -$1200-1300. But it's not the weight (although climbing on the carbon is like nothing I could have imagined. I don't even feel like I'm working my legs, so yeah that 2 lbs is complete ride changer). I race 30-40 mile races in GA so that alone is worth the cash. But the stiffness is insane. I've never rode carbon, but I can say the wash-out feelings of the 29er are gone. It rails through corners, and flicks like I remember the 66 feeling.

    But can I justify the cash out? Only to myself, no one else would get it

  85. #285
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    Oh, I "get it" too ... just no way I can get it.

    I'm "banking on" the carbon upgrade for when I break the alloy.

    It's only a matter of time.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Oh, I "get it" too ... just no way I can get it.

    I'm "banking on" the carbon upgrade for when I break the alloy.

    It's only a matter of time.
    BTW Bear...you have to change your moniker to "Destroyer of shocks".

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    BTW Bear...you have to change your moniker to "Destroyer of shocks".
    Oh gawd, I hope not.

    Although, I have spent enough on tires to buy a CCDBAir at this point.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post

    Although, I have spent enough on tires to buy a CCDBAir at this point.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
    Money spent on tires is a seriously depressing thought. Given my fondness for Schwalbes, I am thinking I have spent about 1k on tires since buying the bike.
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    .

    Are both of you running 140 Floats? I'm thinking of remodeling, and trying to find a better fork. I'm afraid the 140 might be a bit lanky, but maybe not. The new Formula Thirty-Five or the Pike looks like good candidates, but the Pike is at 140, the Thirty-Five is adjustable.
    Nirvana for me would be an 1800gm 130mm coil.

  90. #290
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    simplemind, I've been a coil+oil guy for a LOONG time.

    but.

    I really REALLY like how my 29 Float 34 works. It's great.

    That said, my '13 model is currently at 140mm travel. It was 120mm as I received it, it had a 20mm travel limiting spacer in the bottom of the air chamber. Truly easy to pop out.

    I am planning on putting in a 10mm spacer the next time I'm in the fork, to try it out at 130mm travel.

    I've run it at both 120 and 140, and wasn't unhappy either way, so I think at 130 I'll end up with that happy medium of "maximun DH-ish-ness" vs "most agile".

  91. #291
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    I've run my '12 model 29 Float 34 at 120mm for it's entire life (about 2,700 miles) and have really liked it. Have been setting the bike up a bit plusher lately, and it still rails. Have thought about doing the 140 mm setting for a while, but left it as is when I rebuilt the fork at 2k miles.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    It was 120mm as I received it, it had a 20mm travel limiting spacer in the bottom of the air chamber. Truly easy to pop out.
    Can you describe the procedure or is there an online guide or something for doing this conversion? I spent a couple of hours playing in a rock garden on my sb95 on Sunday and a little more would have been fun to play with...

    tia,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geek View Post
    Can you describe the procedure or is there an online guide or something for doing this conversion?
    - drain air from air spring
    - drop lowers off (you should be able to find oil service info on the ridefox.com or related site)
    - rotate fork so legs are horizontal, or pointing slightly up (otherwise you'll need float fluid to replace in air spring)
    - using c-clip pliers to take clip off bottom of air spring
    - GENTLY pull the bits out the bottom of the air spring until the travel spacer is visible
    - snap the travel limiter off
    - reassemble

    you'll want to get oil for the lowers, takes 30ml per side if I recall correctly, 10wt

    again, there's service info on the fork on the fox site, also lists tools needed.

    disclaimer: I've heard that the late model forks may have changed, so I can't say for SURE your fork has the spacer, but it is easy to find out. My fork is a '12 34 Float 29.

    have fun, good luck!

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    CTD model forks have significantly different internals, I am told. Check for the Fox service videos on YouTube- very helpful.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Are both of you running 140 Floats? I'm thinking of remodeling, and trying to find a better fork. I'm afraid the 140 might be a bit lanky, but maybe not. The new Formula Thirty-Five or the Pike looks like good candidates, but the Pike is at 140, the Thirty-Five is adjustable.
    Nirvana for me would be an 1800gm 130mm coil.
    I have seen first hand a Pike 160 on a 29'r. Just an FYI.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    CTD model forks have significantly different internals, I am told. Check for the Fox service videos on YouTube- very helpful.
    Mine is CTD.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Mine is CTD.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
    Ahhhhh- yours was delivered during the switchover. I ended up with pre-CTD model.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bacon Jr View Post
    Ahhhhh- yours was delivered during the switchover. I ended up with pre-CTD model.
    I got lucky on the fork, unlucky on the shock, life is a balance.

    OTOH, I've always felt that my rear shock was "this" much "behind" the DH capability of the fork (in D mode), maybe I'll finally have Complete Bike Balance with the new damper that I'll be getting. My RP23 felt nicely balanced against my fork, with the fork in T-0, but with the fork D it was out paced, now and then obviously.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I have seen first hand a Pike 160 on a 29'r. Just an FYI.
    Did it look like this?

    SB 95 Build Thread?-long-bike2.jpg

    Of course, that's my concern. The SB handles so well at 120mm, I'm really leery of going too slack plus the added BB height, but it wb interesting to ride a 160mm.
    I'm in the Bear's camp regarding 130mm being an ideal compromise, until someone convinces me otherwise.
    I did notice the Ripley (yes, considering that one as well) is stocked with a 140mm, has pretty similar specs, and an even lower BB ht @ 13.25.

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    Just picked up my Turquoise SB95 w/ Race Kit. Man it is a nice bike ! The color in pictures doesn't do it justice when you see it in person. Next to my 575, the wheels are huge ! Yes.. it is a 29er. I see why they call them "wagon wheels". I installed a 60mm stem and will have to order some black pedals. My gray pedals off my 575, just don't cut it. I'm sure the next rides will be tweaking the suspension etc. Hope to ride it tomorrow.

    BTW...Everyone in this Yeti forum are very helpful and knowledgable. Reading through this thread along with replies to some of my own postings, help formulate my decision in getting this bike.

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